Perfumery PDF

 Each olfactory neuron only has one type of Cosmetic Product receptor protein;  Olfac...

 Each olfactory neuron only has one type of Cosmetic Product receptor protein;  Olfactory neurons of the same type are connected Development Finals to the same glomerulus in the olfactory bulb;  Signals from the glomerulus feed into the limbic system of the brain. TOPIC: PERFUMERY Glomerulus: spherical structures located in and workingas What is Perfume? the basic unit in the odour map of the olfactory bulb of the  It is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic brain. compounds, fixative and solvents used to give the Limbic System: part of the brain associated with emotions, human body, animal, food object, and living memory and sensory information. Signals from the spaces a pleasant smell. glomerulus feed into this system. Other various emotional  It is usually in liquid form and used to give pleasant and sensory inputs are then brought together to create a smell to person’s body. single experience.  These are supposed to release a continuous pleasant fragrance that will provide a long lasting IV. Odour Perception feeling of freshness. Odour and Memory: odour can be a trigger for a complete  Initially, it was only used for religious purpose but memory, including the emotional context; early now it has become an ornament of sophistication experience often affects our later likes and dislikes in for both men and women. fragrance and some odours may affect our emotions and feelings. I. The Perfume Industry Variation in Odour Perception: the same odour may be Key Players perceived differently by different individuals, both due to Ingredient Suppliers the individual’s emotional, social, cultural and visual contexts, as well as through physiological properties such  Creative Perfumery Houses as specific anosmia, MHC or an illness/deficiency.  Fine Fragrance Companies  Consumer Products Companies  Specific anosmia: when a specific olfactory gene  Contract Manufacturers is not functioning. The olfactory receptor is not expressed, leading to a specific odour or odour type not being perceived by the individual (i.e. II. The Sense of Smell musk, wood or amber notes).  MHC (major histocompatibility complex): a Functions: group of genes that codes for proteins found on the surfaces of cells that help the immune system 1. Basic Survival: recognize foreign substances. There are different  Warning (burning, spoiled foods, predators) types of MHC and children born of parents with  Feeding (appetite, food flavour, effect ofanosmia) different MHC have stronger immune systems;  Communication (babies, recognition, this may explain an individual’s attraction to a pheromones) mate with a different MHC; some of our odour  Mate Selection (MHC – major histocompatibility likes and dislikes correlate to our MHC type. complex)  Illness/Deficiency: zinc deficiency, Parkinson’s  Place and Time (the smell of seasons, the smell of disease, cancer treatment and brain damage can the sea) all lead to anosmia and may be used as part of the diagnosis. 2. Psychological: Odour Fatigue and Background Odour  Mood Enhancement (emotions, well-being,  We become fatigued to smells including aromachology) background smells. Our brains are programed  Therapy (energizing, relaxing, aromatherapy to notice difference in smell so will mostly notice new smells; however, background III. Anatomy and Physiology odour maybe affecting our perception Odorous Molecules: volatile, will be taken in with the air without our knowledge. that enters the nose and bound to receptor sites found on  We perceive an odour of a complex mixture as tiny hair like cilia bathed in mucus (located in the a whole picture , much like when we see a epithelium behind the bridge of the nose. corner of a table and recognize it as a table. If more than two or three odours are combined Odour Receptors: expressed by 350 olfactory genes in the brain perceives them as one picture. More humans (with up to 12 variants for each). than one familiar odour pictures may be  o Common fragrance: Citrus (lemon, orange present in a complex fragrance, but each individual’s zest), light fruits (grape, berries), and perception will have the tendency to perceive one specific herbs (clary, sage, lavender) picture, usually the most familiar one.  Middle Notes: o Also known as heart note, make an V. Introduction to Fragrance Language appearance once the top notes evaporate o materials that last 30 minutes to several Odour Families/Notes hours on the smelling blotter/skin o These compounds form the “heart” or the main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes which become more pleasant with time. o Common fragrance: Rose, lemon, lavender, nutmeg and jasmine  Base Notes: o Also known bottom or dry notes which appear while middle notes are fading o Materials that last 8 hours to several days on the smelling blotter. Qualifying Descriptors o The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume o It bring depth and solidity to a perfume o Common fragrance: sandalwood, vanilla, amber, and musk. VI. Aromatic Sources Fragrances used in perfume can be found from fo9llowing sources:  Plant Source: Barks, flowers, fruits, leaves, resin, roots, seeds, woods, etc.  Animal Source: Ambergis, Castoreum, civet, Emotional Descriptors honeycomb, musk, etc.  Enlivening  Synthetic Source: Calone, linalool and  Invigorating coumarin (synthetic from terpenes etc)  Refreshing  Relaxing VII. Classification of Perfume  Calming  Soothing Perfumes are classified into five major groups on the basis  Happy of concentration of fragrance and duration of lasting. They  Fun are:  Comforting Class % of aromatic Duration  Cozy compound (hours)  Sexy Parfum 20-30 Last up to 12+ Odour Notes: The term note is borrowed from music. (perfume) Accord is also used in perfumery, meaning harmonious Eau de parfum 15-20 6-8 (EDP) blend of two or more odour notes (i.e. leather accord) Eau de toilette 5-15 4-6 Categorisation of Odour Notes by Volatility (EDT) Eau de cologne 2-4 3-4  Top Notes: (EDC) o materials that do not last long on the Eau fraiche (EF) 1-3 3 smelling blotter/ skin; AfterShave/ 0-1 1 o they are generally the lighte4st of all notes Splash and recognized immediately after application Perfume can further be classified into following classes: o It consist of small, light molecules with Traditional with high volatility that evaporate quickly Modern  A. Traditional  Ambergris (from the Whale, known as whale 1. Single flora vomit)  Others (faecal, indolic, leather) Fragrance that are dominated by a scent from one particular flower in French called soliflore (eg: serge 4. Cologne Lutens’sa Majester La rose which is dominated by rose) Eau de Cologne was first developed in the city of Cologne 2. Floral bouquet (1709). 4711 was then launched in 1792. The Classic Containing the fragrance of several flowers in a scent. cologne accord has the following notes: Eg: Amber, Wood, Leather, Chypre, Fougere B. Modern 1. Bright floral: Fragrance from one or several flowers. 2. Green: Fragrance from cut grass or leaf. A light or more modern interpretation of the chypre type. 3. Aquatic: A very clean, modern smell leading to many of the modern androgynous perfumes. Eg. Christian Dior’s Dune. 5. Oriental 4. Citrus: Has freshening effect. 5. Fruity: Aromas of fruits other than citrus. The oriental accord is usually composed of the following Eg. Ginestet Bortrytis. notes: 6. Gourmand: Scent with edible or desert like qualities. Eg. Mugler’s Angel VIII. More On Odour Families 1. Aldehydic In perfumery, the term Aldehydic refers to the odour of aliphatic aldehydes of chain length C8 to C12. Chanel 5 was the first fragrance where synthetic aldehydes were used (1921). Many brands such as Dove use aldehydic fragrances to this day. 2. Balsamic 6. Chypre Balsams are odorous resinous exudates from shrubsfound in the desert. They are sweet smelling and warm so vanilla The chypre accord uses the following base notes: is included in the balsamic odour family, although itisfrom a dried bean. Balsamic notes include:  Benzoin (Styrax Tonkinensis)  Myrrh  Frankincense/Olibanum (Boswellia Carterii)  Opoponax  Peru Balsam  Tolu Balsam  Cistus  Labdanum  Vanilla (Vanilla Planifolia) 7. Fougere 3. Animal Fougere fragrances are inspired by ferns and woodland fauna, usually containing the following notes: Traditionally encompasses odours of animal extracts; however, the use of animal extracts and even synthetic animal notes has declined over recent years. Animal notes are as follows:  Musk (from the Musk Deer)  Civet (from the Civet Cat)  Castoreum (from the Beaver)  2. Steam Distillation The distillation vessel is loaded with the botanical. Steam is then passed up through the botanical, rupturing the oil sacs and carrying the volatile essential vapour with it. Essential oil and steam will then condense in the condenser (depending on density of the oil, it will either float or sink in the collection vessel). The oils are then tapped off.  Steam is passed through plant materials held in a still, whereby the essential oil turns to gas.  This gas is then passed through tubes, cooled, liquefied and collected. 8. Gourmand Advantages: Usually containing the ingredient Veltol Plus, which conveys the scent of cotton candy and other sweets.Other  Contains low levels of colour and no waxes. gourmand notes may be chocolate, creamy effects, fine  Generally low cost. pastries, indulgent fruity notes or alcoholic notes, such as  Is accredited as natural by associations such as brandy or champagne. COSMOS due to the absence of chemicals in the IX. Manufacturing Process extraction process. Perfumes can be manufactured by following steps: Disadvantages: 1. Collection  100o C can still be relatively high for some 2. Extraction components in the oil, which may react at this 3. Blending temperature. 4. Aging  The final composition (and odour) will not be the same as the botanical A. Collection  Material in the botanical degrades to produce sulphurous notes, known as “stilly” notes. Before manufacturing process begins the sources of suitable fragrances are collected in the manufacturing centre. Other Distillation Methods B. Extraction  Vacuum Steam Distillation: vacuum allows temperature to be lower than 100o C, reducing Oils are extracted from plants and other substances by the incidence of “stilly” notes. different methods like:  Dry Steam: reduces hydrolysis (reactions with Methods of Fragrance Extraction water) of the oil. 3. Solvent Extraction 1. Expression of Oil from Citrus Fruit  The flower parts are di8sswolved in benzene or A process where zest is abraded, rupturing the oil sacs and petrolatum that retains the fragrance of the releasing the essential oil. No heat is required, so the flower. process is called “cold pressed”.  Alcohol is used to dissolve the fragrance and heated to obtain it after evaporation of alcohol. Advantages: The extraction vessel is charged with the botanical, where  Minimal degradation of essential oil due to cold perforated plates allow for full contact between solvent process and botanical. A hydrocarbon solvent is then added to the  The odour character is similar to that found in the vessel, the process being carried out around 30o C. After botanical some time the solution is tapped off and the solvent is Disadvantages: removed from the extract by vacuum distillation (recovered solvent often being used in future batches).  Contain non-odorous materials such as waxes, The final result can be a concrete or an absolute. Common colours and furocoumarins absolutes include rose, jasmine and mimosa.  The finest odour is usually found in coloured essential oils. The decolourising process affects  Concrete: a mix of odorous and non-odorous both the fragrance and the shelf like of the final materials (usually waxes and colours). These can product (it will be more prone to oxidation) be used directly in soap perfumery and non- aqueous balms.  Absolute: made by mixing ethanol with the concrete, tapping off the ethanol solution from  C. Blending the waxes and then distilling off the alcohol under a  Once the perfume oils are collected, they are vacuum. ready to be blended together according to a Advantages: master formula.  After the scent has been created, it is mixed with  Lower process temperature means that the alcohol. extracts are closer to the botanical in odour  Most full perfumes are made of about 10-20%  Some delicate botanicals that cannot survive perfume oils dissolved in alcoho9l and a trace of steam distillation can be extracted (i.e. jasmine water. absolute). Disadvantages: D. Aging  Fine perfume is often aged for several months or  Not accredited as natural products by associations even years after blending to ensure that the such as COSMOS due to the use of petrochemicals correct scent has been achieved. in the manufacturing process. X. Composition of Perfume 4. Maceration  The plant material is soaked in vegetable oil, 1. Essential oil heated and strained.  This process creates more of infused oil, rather Derived from natural aromatic plant exracts and/or than essential oil. synthetic aromatic chemicals. Eg. Limonene, linalool,  These produced oils can be used for massage. geraniol, citral, etc. 2. Fixatives 5. Expression  This method is also known as cold pressing. Natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the  This process is used to extract volatile oils from citrus evaporation rate. Eg. Benzyl benzoate, benzyl alcohol etc. fruits such as lemon, orange, grape fruit etc. 3. Solvents  The rinds are separated from the fruit and the pressed.  The result is a watery mixture of essential oil and liquid  The liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved in which will separate. is usually 98% ethanol and 2% water.  Alcohol allows fragrance to spread along with it 6. Enfleurage and does not permit microbial growth in the  This method is called pomade. perfume.  This method for producing essential oil is notused ----- much anymore, as it is an expensive and time- consuming process. Natural vs. Synthetic Fragrance Materials Synthetic Aroma Chemicals 7. CO2 Extraction Aroma chemicals that cannot be extracted from nature In this process, CO2 is compressed to a liquid and passed and need to be created through chemical reactions. Owe through the charge in a series of vessels. The resultant their creation to the birth of organic chemistry. liquid passes to the evaporator, where CO 2 evaporates to a gas and is passed back into the condenser (where it can Advantages: be used again). The extract is then collected. Common extracts include vanilla, coffee, green tea and pinkpepper.  reliable for supply, although there have been Advantages: world shortages of synthetics  Generally, less expensive than naturals but not  Low temperatures mean there is very little always degradation of the aroma chemicals  New notes can be created  No degradation of proteins in the botanical, so  Sometimes provide greater impact than naturals, no sulphurous notes created meaning that less aroma chemical can be used to  The extract is closer in odour to the botanical achieve the same effect Disadvantages: Disadvantages:  Capital costs are very high, as the equipment  Petroleum feed stocks may not be sustainable (made of thick stainless steel) is very long term expensive  Impurities can give undesirable odour notes  Lipids are also extracted so the process has to  Synthetics do not have the harmonious be carefully monitored to collect the desired complexity of naturals fractions  Botanicals with high water content are not  ‘Synthetic’ has negative marketing aspects for many consumers suitable for this method  Natural Aroma Chemicals  Ingredients (water, surfactants, active ingredients). Aroma chemicals that are extracted from nature,using  Additives (dyes) methods such as steam distillation, CO 2 extractionand others. Reduction in Activity of Base Due to Perfume Advantages: An example of this is sun screens, where fragrance ingredients may reduce the SPF (sun protection factor) of  Often beautiful complex odours that remind the product. The following steps would be taken after us of the natural world fragrance direction is chosen:  Consumers often respond favourably to inclusion of natural ingredients  A library search for fragrances fitting the selected direction is done; Disadvantages:  Work with perfumers is done to modify the  Variable quality due to: climate, soil, time of fragrances so that they perform in base, and harvest/season/time of day/age of pant, possible missing notes are added for desired geographical region, botanical variety, chemo fragrance direction; type, extraction conditions, etc.  Sometimes can become unavailable due tonatural  Work with the client to test fragrance ingredients disasters in order to detect which ones reduce SPF;  Often more expensive than synthetics, thoughnot  Perfumers use this information to further modify always. their fragrances so that SPF remains in specification;  Evaluator would set up an in-house expert panel Fragrance Creation to ensure performance and hedonics beat a Sources of Creative Inspiration selected bench mark;  Final fragrance ideas are put on test for stability,  Stimulation of the senses (sight, touch, sound, both in general and in specific for SPF. smel  The evaluator would also check the fragrances  Fragrance ingredients, odours and accords meet all the other parameters of the brief such as  Archive formulae price, regulations and performance.  Market Fragrances  Fragrance Brief (including product’s functional and emotional benefits) Fragrance Regulation Headspace Analysis IFRA The odour laden air above the botanical (headspace) is  International Fragrance Association (founded in collected in the field. The sample is then returned to the 1973) laboratory for GCMS (gas chromatography/mass  Designed to protect the consumer and the spectroscopy) analysis and the scent is then recreated environment  Standards are divided into three groups: Selecting Ingredients for White Products o Prohibited: material should not be usedas Various ingredients (i.e. vanillin) will discolour overtime a fragrance ingredient; and so will have to be kept to a minimum in a product, or o Restricted: the use of the material is the colour of the product will have to be adapted to a limited quantitatively; yellow/brown hue. If a white or clear product is preferred, o Specified: the material should only be ethyl vanillin can be used together with alternatives. The used if it meets certain purity criteria scent will not have the same character as the fragrance GHS with high levels of vanillin.  Global Harmonized System of classification and Stability of Perfume in the Product Base labelling Product characteristics that may affect perfume stability  In UK is called CLP (classification, labelling and are as follows: packaging  All fragrance ingredients and concentrates are  Physical form of the product also issued with a safety data sheet (SDS) (solid/powder/liquid), i.e., Terpenes/Citrus Oils  Workers must wear appropriate gloves, safety are susceptible to oxidation on powders with high goggles and ventilation must be provided surface area. An antioxidant is required in the  They must also be aware of hazards and formulation to prevent this. procedures involved if there is a spillage or  Product’s pH, i.e., in aqueous products with acid accidental skin contact pH, esters may undergo de-esterification to acids and alcohols. If the acid has an unpleasant odour (acetic acid), this may lead to a failed stability test.  XI. Quality Control  Fragrance ingredients are tested to assess how likely they are to cause skin reactions. Odour Control  There are 26 fragrance ingredients, listed that are  To some molecules, the nose is up to 6 orders of considered more likely to cause reactions in magnitude more sensitive that the detector on a susceptible people. gas chromatograph machine;  These must be indicated in the list of ingredients,  This sensitivity applies to many sulphur and in addition to the word “parfum” nitrogen containing chemicals; INGREDIENTS CAUSING ALLERGIC REACTIONS  The nose may pick up contamination or factory errors involving these materials. Ingredients Use Side Effects Sandal wood Fragrance Hypersensitivity  Experience is required to assess odour differences Limonene Slightly Irritates the skin and decide whether it is an issue with batch ordue astringent smell to freshness, as fragrances mature with age; Benzyl alcohol Fixative Skin irritant  There is also variation in batches using natural causing redness and pain ingredients and these need to be judged Benzyl benzoate Fixative; sweet Skin irritation accordingly. balsamic odor like blister, The Triangle Test itching, scaling, redness A method of quality control that uses the fact that Acetone Solvent Inhalation cause olfactory perception is wired to look for differences,as dryness of follows: mouth and throat  Standard is dipped with one blotter and Ethyl acetate Solvent Defatting effect marked X; on skin and may  Current batch being tested is dipped with two cause drying and additional blotters; cracking  The quality control personnel assess all three blotters, one after the other and as often as possible, trying to pick the odd one out;  Variation will then be judged if acceptable or not. XII. Naturals Latin Names Odour Control  Benzoin (Styrax Tonkinensis) Oil  Frankincense/Olibanum (Boswellia Carterii) Oil  Vanilla (Vanilla Planifolia) CO2 Extract  Lemon (Citrus Medica Limonum) Oil  Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Oil  Geranium (Pelargonium Graveolens) Absolute  Clove (Eugenia Caryophyllus) Oil  Pink Pepper (Shinus Molle) CO2 Extract  Star Anise (Illicium Verum) Oil  Shrubby Honeysuckle (Lonicera Fragantissima)  Tonka Bean (Dipteryx Odorata) Absolute  Vetivert (Vetiveria Zizanoides) Oil  Mimosa (Acacia Deurrens) Absolute  Bitter Orange (Citrus Aurantium Amara) Oil  Jasmine (Jasminum Officinale) Absolute  Labdanum (Cistus ladaniferus) Oil  Orris (Iris Florentina) beurre  Rose (Rosa Centifolia) Absolute Fragrance Allergens  All cosmetics that contain any fragrances will have the word “parfum” in the ingredients list.