Introduction and History of Aroma Science PDF

Ihisntotroricdaluctofionaroandma science https://aromaaromdee.com/science-of-essential-oils-aromatherapy/ 1701330 Aromatic Science ASST.PROF.DR.NARA YAOWIWAT School of Cosmetic Science,...

Ihisntotroricdaluctofionaroandma science https://aromaaromdee.com/science-of-essential-oils-aromatherapy/ 1701330 Aromatic Science ASST.PROF.DR.NARA YAOWIWAT School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University [email protected] 1 https://magazine.velasresorts.com/wellnessing/aromatherapy-for-beginners/  Table of Content https://aromaaromdee.com/science-of-essential-oils-aromatherapy/ Introduction The Perfumer’s Profession History of Use of Odorants Glossary https://magazine.velasresorts.com/wellnessing/aromatherapy-for-beginners/ 2  Objective Student must be able to Know the principles and historical of aroma science Understand the terminology that use in aroma science https://www.lavendertouch.co.uk/aromatherapy-art-science/ 3  Introduction Smell the oldest sense of living species on our planet has allowed communication between species Chemical communication Materials used extracts from odorous natural products subsequent syntheses https://www.compoundchem.com/2014/06/01/newoldbooksmell/ 4  the oldest senses in the development of life on earth allowed primitive species to find food find sexual partners warned them for potential predators by recognizing certain low molecular chemicals in their surroundings the perception of odors https://www.nature.com/articles/d41586-022-01626-x Scent -->Memory emotional behavior Smell can evoke strong emotional responses. Olfaction is the only sense capable of suddenly “The nose knows things that retrieving long forgotten memories by a single the mind does not understand” sniff of a specific scent. A scent associated with a good experience can bring a rush of joy. 5  https://lbcdmaintenanc e.com/blog/housekeepi ng-tips-make-home- Defining Odor and smell-good/ Odorants Chemical communication a signal initiated by a chemical compound emitted by a donor, received by a receptor and recognized Odor - the impression in the brain elicited by the recognition of a (mostly) volatile chemical by an odorant receptor Odorant It has to bind to an odorant receptor. https://www.inc.com/david- beebe/why-scent-should-play-a- It has to result in the odorant receptor transmitting the pivotal-part-in-your-brands-brick- mortar-storytelling-strategy.html recognition to the brain. The brain has to recognize it as a signal that can be interpreted. https://www.nytimes.com/2022/02/03/science/nose-odors- evolution.html 6  What Creates Smell in nature? Odorous molecules are mainly created by plants Plants produce aroma for survival secondary metabolites typically terpenes or phenolic compounds https://www.compoundchem.com/2015/02/12/flowers/ synthesized through organic chemistry reactions methylation, acylation, oxidation and reduction, formation Choi, N. E., & Han, J. H. (2015). How flavor works: the of aromatic rings, and other reactions science of taste and aroma. John Wiley & Sons. 7  The animal-origin raw materials Civet : a cat-like mammal musk, civet, castoreum, and ambergris the musk exudate is secreted only in very expensive perfume products from the perineal glands of both hard to obtain in large quantities the males and females most of them are chemically synthesized for commercial uses https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Civet_%28perfumery%29 Castoreum : the castor sacs of mature beavers Musk : very important in the creation of per- fumes to have a leather or The external secretion glands chypre perfume scent of musk deer are located https://www.businessinsider.com/castoreum- used-in-food-and-perfume-2013-10 near the male reproductive organ. Ambergris : secretes a honey-like a metabolite of sperm whales exudate with a strong smell a biliary secretion of the intestines have to be killed in order to an exotic woody and earthly odor, obtain their musk exudate camphor scent, cigarette-like smell, musk, or sea salt smell https://allthatsinteresting.com/ambergris https://www.huffpost.com/entry/what-is-musk_n_56cb6c67e4b0ec6725e36fd0 8  Although food acceptance in humans is determined mainly by appearance and texture, flavor is nevertheless also important. https://theculinarycook.com/2017/02 /27/how-to-smoking-meat-salt- curing-brining/ Aromas that develop during frying and baking enhance the enjoyment of food. Spices are added to food not for their nutritional value but for their taste and flavor. https://www.coffeedesk.com/blog/how-is-the-coffee- roasted-the-basics-of-coffee-roasting/ Cooking clearly creates a variety of chemicals. Aroma compounds are very limited in raw foods such as coffee beans, tea leaves, vanilla, and cacao fruits. https://www.beckandbulow.com/seasoning- meat-101/ Over 1000 different volatile chemicals have been discovered from roasted coffee beans, 470 from black tea, and 400 from baked bread. 9  Fragrances and flavors are, similar to taste substances, chemical messengers, their receptors being the olfactory cells in the nose. https://www.compoundchem.com/2017/07/10/lavender/ The use of fragrances in perfumery is primarily directed toward invoking pleasurable sensations by shifting the organism’s emotional level. Whereas “naturalness” is preferred in aromas (generally mixtures of many compounds), the talent and imagination of the perfumer are essential for the creation of a perfume. https://www.compoundchem.com/2017/02/14/r oses/ https://www.compoundchem.com/2015/02/17/coffee- aroma/ 10  A considerable As a result of the rapid development proportion of and expansion of biotechnology in compounds used in the past two decades, far more than fragrances are those 100 natural aroma substances are identified as components available today of natural products, for example, constituents of essential oils or resins. http://hempedification.blogspot.com/2015/03/cannabis-terpenes-and-their-effects.html The fragrance characteristics of artificial compounds https://www.essentialoilscare.com/essential-oils-guide/resin/ nearly always mimic those of natural products. 11 https://www.entechinst.com/document-library/chromatograms/pink-rose-analysis-by-LVHS-GCMS  Fragrance Ingredients T he evolution of its a perfume composition divided into three categories: fragrance properties Top note materials that are perceived immediately Heart note (body; bouquet) materials that are perceived following top Base note (fond) materials that are Ohloff, G., Pickenhagen, W., Kraft, P., & Grau, F. (2022). Scent and perceived mainly in the chemistry: the molecular world of odors. John Wiley & Sons. dry-out and impart Current version of the Symrise Fragrance tenacity to the Circle originally devised by Ulrich Harder composition The segments contain the most a “fragrance circle,” a circular central body is important fragrance categories ringed by segments of top notes in the upper that determine the character of part and by base notes in the lower part a perfume. https://www.thaiamtec.com/news/perfume-composition/ 12  Typical top notes Citrus Fresh, stimulating odor of citrus fruits such as lemon, lime, orange, bergamot Aldehydic Odor note of the long-chained fatty aldehydes: fatty-sweaty, ironed laundry, metallic, fresh seawater, ozone-like, marine fragrances Fruity Light fruity notes: typical notes of aliphatic esters: found, for example, in odors of apples, pears, melons Dark (heavy, sweet) fruity notes: found, for example, in odors of strawberries, raspberries, lactone odor of peaches and coconuts Green Typical odor of green vegetation: green leaves and freshly cut grass Herbaceous/Herbal Odor of green herbs and spices, for example, sage, mint, eucalyptus; camphoraceous such as rosemary; coniferous such as fir needles; earthy agrestic https://www.shayandblue.com/blogs/journal/top-heart-base-what-does-it-all-mean 13  Typical heart notes; body Floral light Rose Floral green, clean Lily of the Valley (muguet) Floral fresh, herbal Geranium, lavender Floral fruity damascones Floral heavy Narcotic flower -- jasmine, tuberose Floral woody (powdery) methylionones Powdery White Rosy flowers flowers notes narcotics https://www.shayandblue.com/blogs/journal/top-heart-base-what-does-it-all-mean https://www.carrementbelle.com/blog/en/2020/06/02/floral-notes/ 14  Typical base notes Aromatic - Sweet aromatic to aromatic spicy odors, for example, of honey, almond, aniseed, woodruff, nutmeg, clove. This segment also contains the so-called gourmand notes having pronounced culinary properties, for example, vanilla, tonka, lovage Balsamic - Heavy sweet odors, such as chocolate and vanilla, cinnamon with resinous elements Moss - Dry, algae-like, tar-like, phenolic, oak moss Leather, animalic - Odor of cresol, isobutyl quinoline; fecal such as indole Musk - Warm soft odor reminding of freshly washed and ironed laundry, often with skin-like and animalic-erogenous facets Amber - Warm, slightly earthy-camphoraceous woody note, reminding natural ambergris, represented typically by amber oxide Wood - Clear cool radiant odor found in natural materials such as cedarwood (pencil note), patchouli, sandalwood, and vetiver https://www.shayandblue.com/blogs/journal/top-heart-base-what-does-it-all-mean 15  Fragrance Wheels https://www.fragrancesoftheworld.com Ohloff, G., Pickenhagen, W., Kraft, P., & Grau, F. (2022). Scent and chemistry: the molecular world of odors. John Wiley & Sons. 16  Fragrance Wheels https://www.beautyjunkiejax.com/fragrance-families/ https://www.aftelier.com/Aftelier-Natural-Perfume-Wheel-p/wb-wheel.htm 17  Cosmetic application Fine fragrance Home fragrance Cosmetics and toiletries Personal wash Laundry Household https://soapdelinews.com/2019/06/botanical-skin-care-recipes.html https://www.flaticon.com/ 18 https://zoolprotect.en.made-in-china.com/product/kwKmHQEvnlhO/China-The-New-Beauty-3-Varieties-Flower-Perfume-Bath-Soap-for-Body-Skin-Care.html 19  20 https://www.bydeals.net/sg/deals/1228413/make-buy-free-aekyung-official-lowest-price.html https://downy.com/en-us https://www.punpro.com/p/mini-review-dishwashing-liquid https://www.tryandreview.com/th/home/cleaning-supplies/duck/product/duck-clean-and-fresh-floral-thailand 21  https://oneseedperfumes.com/produ cts/perfumery-workshop-basics- principles-sydney The Perfumer’s Profession Divided into: The perfumer’s job Perfumer creators to produce an olfactory translation of an idea Fine Fragrance – Eau de parfum, Eau de toilette using various raw materials with balance and structure Functional fragrance – body care products, household products the idea Perfumer analysts spring spontaneously from the perfumer’s Specialist in chromatography imagination Ingredients specialist Experts in raw materials – sourcing, quality, expand the palette used be drawn from a brief, a specific request. a personal Technical perfumer challenge Specialists in adapting existing formulars – when new products are add to a line --> have to ensure the final scent 22  The creators of fine fragrance S taff perfumer in a I n-house perfumer I ndependent perfumer composition house Called upon for various projects Works exclusively for one Creates formulas for their own for different brands. brand brand or for others Works to brief and collaborates Becomes their own entity Manages their business alone with multiple teams – evaluation, within the brand or with associates: marketing, regulatory, etc. Involved in formulation administration The procurement of raw potential clients materials formulation PR client meetings the brand’s commercial production strategy quality control https://www.educations.com/study-abroad/universite- cote-dazur/msc-management-of-the-flavor- fragrance-industry-632769 23  The Trainee Perfumer Olfaction the study of raw materials the foundation of perfume how to recognize as soon as they hit the nose learn an olfactory language to hone the olfactory perception allow to put words to each smell https://www.grasse-perfumery.com Palette raw materials with different properties appearance – liquid, powder, paste, wax, resin color – colorless, brown, yellow,.. stability discolor overtime / contact with other molecule break down when exposed to heat https://www.grasse-perfumery.com/professions/perfumer/ undesirable odor 24  Historic perfumes and base Base blend of synthetic and natural ingredients and make them easier to use mini-perfume study base – provides an understanding of the structure and an insight into how certain raw materials are used Classic perfumes allow students to familiarize with the great fragrances inspired the students https://experimentalperfumeclub.com/make-perfume/ Formulation learn to put together a smell quantity of raw materials with the aim of making a simple accord – rose, jasmine start to work on slightly more complex accords – floral bouguet start assembling simple accords to try to reproduce https://experimentalperfumeclub.com/make-perfume/ perfume 25  Being a perfumer Where to work? places --> an olfactorily neutral area does not work in a laboratory which full of smells https://www.buro247.my/beauty/buro-loves/louis-vuitton-master-perfumer-jacques-cavallier-be.html Bottles containing ongoing trials Notebooks Scent strip holder Pot of scent strips Latest trials to monitor overtime https://perfumer.ch Formulation software https://perfumer.ch 26  Creating a perfume At first – applied art forms a brief provided by the client an idea develop an initial formula - alone / with the help of evaluation and marketing team Start from a blank page Start with one of the notes in the library Dore, J. (Ed.). (2020). The big book of perfume (p. 227). French: Nez edition. Take inspiration from an existing fragrance the market / a benchmark Gas Chromatography (GC) giving a ‘twist’ a method of separating out the compounds within a starting with a formula obtained through product to identify them. chromatography involves injecting a few microliters of the solution under analysis into a chromatography a column, an oven, and a detector 27  https://www.mooreanalytical.com/gc-ms/ https://bitesizebio.com/28687/carrying-gas-chromatography/ Bartsch, J., Uhde, E., & Salthammer, T. (2016). Analysis of odour compounds from scented consumer products using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry and gas chromatography-olfactometry. Analytica Chimica Acta, 904, 98-106. 28  In-house perfumer The composition house perfumer Perfumer Account manager: the coordinator https://www.tatlerasia.com/style/beauty/dior-in-house-perfumer- role --> to maintain communication between francois-demachy-on-how-to-make-fragrances-last-longer everyone involved in the same project Evaluator: the perfumer’s shadow - the client - the perfumers work closely with the perfumer - the evaluators - the consumer insight discussing the olfactory aspects of their work - legal - R&D teams ’translator’ - the laboratory - the production chain familiar with the client’s words understand the market’s tastes and expectations role --> to help the perfumer to formulate proposition 29 Dore, J. (Ed.). (2020). The big book of perfume (p. 227). French: Nez edition. 30  Independent perfumer Developing a brand, an aesthetic vision to live out your passion To create business activity in a sector undergoing strong growth To propose an original concept To update or modernize a brand https://www.theceomagazine.com/business/start-ups- entrepreneurs/jo-malone/ Evaluator: the perfumer’s shadow Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi work closely with the perfumer discussing the olfactory aspects of their work ’translator’ familiar with the client’s words understand the market’s tastes and expectations role --> to help the perfumer to formulate proposition http://fragroom.com/2022/07/19/best-le-labo-fragrances-17-top-releases-from-the-niche-standard-setter/ 31  History of Use of Odorants P rehistory odorous signals initiated by E arly History burning of different objects -- the burning of fragrant woods, odorous seeds, woods, and flint resins, and aromatic plants became linked to religion frankincense was burned at about 3000BC --> to honor the sun God 1700 BC --> frankincense were burned every year in the temple Persian Empire women who were selected to be presented to king Xerxes had to complete twelve month of beauty treatment, six months with oil of myrrh, and six months with perfumes and cosmetics https://www.dentistrytoday.com/burning-incense-may-harm-oral-health/ https://www.spiritualityhealth.com/blogs/your-creative- spirit/2015/11/23/bess-oconnor-7-sacred-resins-burn-clearing- negative-energy 32  Ancient Egypt incense were burnt in the Bel temple of Babylon annually Incense burning of different materials frankincense at sunrise myrrh at noon kyphi at sunset https://scentfie.com/history-and-evolution-of-perfume-few-people-know/ ”A day without fragrance is a lost day” https://lines-hub.com/heliopolis-the-land-of- history-and-architecture/ https://www.templeoflora.com/current-classes -- Egyptian saying perfumes in ancient Kyphi -- a mixture of 16 ingredients was considered as Egypt were based mainly the most agreeable scent belonging to the Gods on fats obtained from plants or animals https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article- 7351691/Scientists-recreate-Cleopatras-PERFUME-using-2- 000-year-old-recipe.html 33  Incense was considered the “Fragrance of the Gods” in Ancient Egypt. https://www.mediamatic.net/en/page/381901/ancient-egypt-and-the- culture-of-perfume. Temple of Medinet Habu in Egypt - Mural depicting the offer of incense through the incense burner that had the shape of an arm. Cleopatra, the queen of Egypt https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article- 7351691/Scientists-recreate-Cleopatras-PERFUME-using-2- 000-year-old-recipe.html -- She had the knowledge of using the rich plant & mineral Offering and perfume jars found between Anubis resources of Egypt in super- and Hatshepsut, on an Ancient Egyptian mural at https://www.keyaseth.com/blogs/blog/aromatherapy-the-beauty- perfected ways to enhance her the Chapel of Anubis, Mortuary Temple of secret-of-cleopatra charm. Hatshepsut, Deir el Bahari, Theban Necropolis 34  Ancient Greece Gods played an important part of daily life Many myths connect the odor of different plants and flowers with different Gods. https://www.officinadelleessenze.com/en/perfume-in-ancient-rome/ experts in the art of extracting the aromatic principles of plants and resins using olive oil Fat extraction of floral odors from freshly picked flowers --> concretes --> “enfleurage” rose, lily, and violet --> most liked by the Greeks https://www.officinadelleessenze.com/en/perfu me-in-ancient-rome/ use of tinctures, lotions, essences, and creams to scent - Woman pouring perfume into a flask and moisturize each part of the body - Making Attar of Roses in an Ancient Greek Temple https://honorthegods.tumblr.com/post/137089901291/ making-attar-of-roses-in-an-ancient-greek-temple 35  Ancient Roman The Roman women, besides spreading it on their bodies, were using the perfume to adorn their hair. the Romans preferred the more masculine odors of saffron and balsams. https://www.officinadelleessenze.com/en/perfume-in-ancient-rome/ WHAT HAPPENED AFTER THE ROMAN EMPIRE? - the influences of the surrounding Islamic world - the Arabs began to discover and https://www.officinadelleessenze.com/en/perfume-in-ancient-rome/ develop new techniques through The scented ointments were also used from experimentation, just to mention Egypt to ancient Rome to cleanse the body distillation, sublimation, filtration, and – Hygienic care was indeed well developed: very important – the production and the citizens of Rome had public baths at https://www.officinadelleessenze.com/en/perfume-in-ancient-rome/ concentration of ethanol from wine. their disposal where they would, after their bath, be anointed with scented oils. 36  The application of these tools and techniques gave rise to the isolation of a multitude of odorous materials from different scented raw materials. https://www.officinadelleessenze.com/en/perfume-in-ancient- rome/ https://www.medicinetraditions.com/introduction- to-the-art-of-distillation.html A portrait of two young Arab women engaged in a fragrance creation A distilling apparatus as may have been found in a The technique of steam distillation, an Arab invention, is 17th century Apothecary still a very important method to isolate volatile materials https://mahalo.care/essential-oils-and- absolutes/steam-distillation/ from their matrix. 37  Crusades starting in 1095 T discovered the use of the highly developed scented materials he Middle Ages till aromatic plants for medicinal and European participants brought back flavoring Beginning of Industrialization samples as gifts for their ladies mainly dill, marjoram, mint, Eau de Chypre, a composition of the culture of using scented materials parsley, rosemary, and sage reached Western Europe extracts of two plants indigenous to mainly spices Cyprus, rose and styrax The Abbes Hildegard von Bingen In 1370, the first alcohol-based (1098-1179) --natural remedies perfume appeared in France known as ‘L’Eau de Hongrie’ or ‘Hungary Water’ The beginning of the 14th century Eau d’ Ange, a composition of aqueous extracts of rose, orange, styrax, and rue was sold. Aqua Regina Hungarica, an aqueous extract of mainly rosemary, is probably the first https://www.sohappyyoulikedit.com/the-basics-herbs/ bestseller in the history of https://www.arsmineralis.net/mineralis-en/hildegard-von-bingen/hildegard-von-bingen/ perfumery. 38  The preparation of extracts of natural products, especially strong smelling flowers, expanded from the monasteries to regions of abundant starting materials, especially in the town of Grasse in Southern France. In 1768, Antoine Chiris founded the first of these factories in Grasse making extracts https://www.plaisirdegrasse.com/stories/story-of-grasse from natural Paris became the center of creation and a number of specialized products that were boutiques opened their commerce. used for the Trends of the time were mainly reconstitutions of flower scents -- composition of so-called soliflores perfumes. ‘Lily of the valley’ (Floris, ca. 1750), ‘Rose’ (Molinard, 1860), ‘Jasmin’ (Molinard, 1860), ‘Rose Jacqueminot’ (Coty, 1904), https://profumissimi.wordpress.com/2010/05/24/museum-of- ‘Jasmin de Corse’ (Coty, 1906), ‘Violette Pourpre’ (Houbigant, perfume-grasse/ 1907), ‘Narcisse Noir’ (Caron, 1912), ‘Gardénia’ (Chanel, 1925), and ‘Le Muguet de Bois’ (Coty, 1942) 39  https://www.etsy.com/listing/686920668/molinard-parfum- https://www.etsy.com/il-en/listing/533907008/molinard- https://www.parfumo.net/Perfumes/Chanel/Gardenia_Parfum de-luxe-rose-30-ml-or-1 jasmin-jasmine-50-ml-or-169-oz The limitation at the end of the 19th century - the perfumers had only essential oils and resin to compound - some flowers did not yield an essential oil, such as the lily of the valley (muguet) - abstract creations were very difficult to achieve The development of Organic Chemistry - The analysis of natural products and efficient synthetic preparation of their smelling principles led to an understanding https://cotyperfumes.blogspot.com/2014/01/la-rose- jacqueminot-by-coty-c1904.html of the molecular basis of essential oils. 40  In 1835, Jean-Baptiste Dumas (1800–1884) C and Eugène-Melchior Péligot (1811–1890) isolated and characterized hemical Discoveries The nascent organic chemistry cinnamaldehyde from cinnamon enabled scientists to essential oil What are the connections between analyze the composition of In 1837, Friedrich Wöhler (1800–1882) and these discoveries and modern natural products Justus Liebig (1803–1873) perfumery? identify the molecules of Benzaldehyde, Odorants isolated from natural sources and odor impact the odorous principle of bitter almond identified in the early times of organic chemistry subsequently synthesize oil and cherry flavor those for the use in the first synthetic odorous material perfume compositions In 1884, Otto Wallach (1847–1931) the main branches of research elucidated the important terpenoid in perfumery science constituents of essential oils, !-pinene, camphene, terpinolene, !- Jacques-Julien Houtou de terpinene, !-fenchene Labillardière (1755–1834) the sesquiterpenes !-cadinene, discovered terpenes (C- caryophyllene atoms to eight H-atoms) The first perfumery raw materials --> easy to from turpentile oil isolate from essential oils by crystallization camphor, borneol, and cedrol Buettner, A. (Ed.). (2017). Springer handbook of odor (p. 1100). Berlin/Heidelberg, Germany: Springer. 41  Developments in vacuum distillation techniques the isolation of liquid components from Ohloff, G., Pickenhagen, W., Kraft, P., & Grau, F. (2022). Scent and chemistry: the molecular world of odors. John Wiley & Sons. essential oils the development of modern perfumery citronellol the creation of fantasy perfumes geraniol the commercial synthesis of pure nature identical and citral synthetic odorants (−)-linalool cinnamaldehyde eugenol a series of natural materials that inspired the perfumers of the 19th century https://www.bdivinearoma.com/how-are- essential-oils-made/ Ohloff, G., Pickenhagen, W., Kraft, P., & Grau, F. (2022). Scent and chemistry: the molecular world of odors. John Wiley & Sons. 42  Ferdinand Tiemann (1848–1899) B First --> synthesis of vanillin the aromatic principle of vanilla pods eginning of Modern perfumery began when these natural it occurs at about 2% Modern Perfumery products to be used in compositions could be the costs of isolation from an already made by other methods than by extracting expensive starting material --> it could them from their natural sources. not be used in perfumery In 1874, Tiemann and Wilhelm von Hofmann In 1868, William Henry Perkin (1818–1892) (1838–1907) synthesized synthesized vanillin by hydrolysis of coumarin coniferin from pinewood (plentiful supply) the smelling principle of Aimé Guerlain, 1889 tonka beans created the perfume isolated it by extraction with Jicky 80% ethanol 12 years earlier used synthetically Paul Parquet, perfumer and produced vanillin, owner of Houbigant linalool, and coumarine the first successful uses of the first time a perfume coumarine resulted in a was not the recreation perfume called Fougère of a natural product Royal Ohloff, G., Pickenhagen, W., Kraft, P., & Grau, F. (2022). Scent and chemistry: the molecular world of odors. John Wiley & Sons. https://www.parfumo.net/Perfumes/Guerlain/Jicky 43  In 1972 , Tiemann and Krüger The violet flower extracted the similar smelling but much (‘fleur de violette’) cheaper orris root oil (Iris pallida LAM.) the most precious and the smelling principle of violets popular perfumery materials discover the ionones in the 19th century !-ionone - a fresh violet scent "-ionone - more orris-like woody https://www.etsy.com/in-en/listing/540412707/roger-gallet-essence-vera- very cheap price violetta a main theme in the area of soaps and In 1894, Roger & Gallet toiletries launched the soliflore perfume ‘Vera Violetta’ the archetype of many violet scents limited availability too expensive for general use costs exceeding 80,000 German gold marks per kilogram the low content of essential oil in violet Viola odorata Iris pallida LAM. https://www.egyptiansecrets.fr/en/oils/49-huile-de- violette.html flowers https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viola_odorata https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iris_pallida 44  In 1845, Auguste Cahours George Darzens (1867–1954) synthesized p-anisaldehyde by oxidation of anise oil discovered isoamyl salicylate - recalls ‘a sweet, warm odor reminiscent of mimosa and blossoming clover field in the warmth of August’ hawthorn discovered methyl nonyl acetaldehyde (aldehyde In 1877, Tiemann and Herzfeld C-12 MNA) create a sweet floriental fragrance added isoamyl salicylate to a fougère skeleton, Après l’Ondée’ (Guerlain, 1906) and created ‘Trèfle Incarnat’ (L. T. Piver , 1898) p-anisaldehyde is combined with orange blossom oil and a violet–orris accord. https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/L-T-Piver/Trefle-Incarnat-40494.html https://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com/2013/02/apres-londee-c1906.html 45  Lily-of-the-valley (muguet) flowers earlier -- distillation or enfleurage their typical odor was hard to imitate by combining the available essential oils In 1905, by the German Knoll & Co. succeeded in the synthesis of Hydroxycitronellal combines almost all facets of lily-of-the-valley flowers in bloom https://www.etsy.com/no- en/listing/260506431/houbiga nt-quelques-fleurs-some- flowers In 1912, Robert Bienaimé created ‘Quelques Fleurs’ (Houbigant, 1912) Ohloff, G., Pickenhagen, W., Kraft, P., & Grau, F. (2022). Scent and chemistry: the molecular The first significant use Hydroxycitronellal world of odors. John Wiley & Sons. mixed with the complex floral heart consisting of rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lilac, and ionones https://www.housebeautiful.com/uk/garden/plan groundbreaking for the use of aldehydes, more specifically the methyl nonyl acetaldehyde ts/a41245028/lily-of-the-valley/ (aldehyde C-12 MNA) 46  In 1921, Ernest Beaux (1881–1961) created ‘Chanel N∘5’ (Chanel, 1921) most famous perfume -- for its overdose of aldehydes discovered -- the novel aldehydes could counterbalance the fattiness of jasmine absolute and rose oil Beaux showed Chanel 10 samples, numbered 1–5 and 20–24, from which Coco Chanel selected the N∘5 because it was her lucky number. https://www.firstversions.com/2015/02/chanel-n5.html Ernest Beaux (Moscow, Dec. 8, 1881 - Paris, Jun. 9, 1961), the perfumer who created Chanel N°5 Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel (Saumur, Aug. 19, 1883 - Paris, Jan. 10, 1971), fashion designer and founder of the Chanel brand. https://www.firstversions.com/2015/02/chanel-n5.html Ohloff, G., Pickenhagen, W., Kraft, P., & Grau, F. (2022). Scent and chemistry: the molecular world of odors. John Wiley & Sons. 47  In 1905, Blaise and Houillon synthesized $-undecalactone a very powerful and tenacious fruity -- ripe peaches In 1919, Jacques Guerlain used $-undecalactone to modernize the chypre concept Chypre a citrusy top note -- bergamot and orange oil a floral heart featuring a rose–jasmine accord https://cleopatrasboudoir.blogspot.com/2014/03/femme-by-rochas-c1943.html a fond -- musky–animalic oakmoss In 1944, Edmond Roudnitska in addition patchouli oil or leather notes created ‘Femme’ (Rochas, 1944) sweetened the sweetening the chypre concept chypre theme with using $-undecalactone to creat peach and prune accord a soft peach note composed of over one hundred ingredients which by adding $- produce a fruity flowery fragrance undecalactone Top notes: bergamot, peach, prune, plum, apricot ‘Mitsouko’ Middle notes: iris, cinnamon, violet, Bulgarian rose, (Guerlain, 1919) immortelle, white Grasse jasmine, ylang-ylang, Base notes: vetiver, leather, castoreum, labdanum, civet, patchouli, vanilla, ambergris, musk, oak moss, https://www.etsy.com/listing/559395023/guerlain-mitsouko-60-ml-or-2-oz-flacon sandalwood 48  In 1962, Roudnitska in Eau Jasmine flower notes are Sauvage very important in modern created Hedione perfumery. fresh citric jasmine– Extracts from jasmine magnolia note flowers were very very close odor properties expensive to the natural product very small quantities in Today Hedione is limited applications omnipresent in perfumery, not only in fine fragrances. http://www.asia-medicinalplants.info/jasminum- grandiflorum-l/ Ohloff, G., Pickenhagen, W., Kraft, P., & Grau, F. (2022). Scent and https://www.fragrantica.com/per chemistry: the molecular world of odors. John Wiley & Sons. fume/Dior/Eau-Sauvage- 231.html 49 Bulgarian rose oil (Rosa damascena MILL.) In the mid-1960s citronellol, geraniol, (−)-linalool , and eugenol lacking freshness, depth, and naturalness In collaboration with the GC expert isolate 0.8 mg of the missing olfactory link - "- damascenone Günther Ohloff (1924–2005) synthesized !-damascone In 1979, Jean Paul Guerlain https://www.pinterest.com/pin/467600373811778457/ created ‘Nahéma’ In 1985, Edouard Flechier (Guerlain, 1979) created ‘Poison’ (Dior, 1985) The first perfume to an extremely fruity–spicy note feature a high content of 0.04% of !-damascone, 0.09% of "-damascone !-damascone and 0.09% of "-damascenone https://www.fragrantica.co m/perfume/Guerlain/Nahe ma-46.html 50  Musk odorants are in wide use in perfumery Analysis of the extracts from the musk deer glands secretion Leopold Ruzicka (1887–1976) was awarded the Nobel Price in Chemistry in 1939 discovered (-) 3-methylcyclopentanone --> muscone cycloheptadecanone - A carbocyclic ring ketone smelling of musk https://www.ahimsaoils.com.au/_ https://www.rkessentialoil.com/products/ambrette -seed-oil?variant=41967328854168 Kerschbaum identified another musk- smelling compound from ambrette seed oil Ambrettolide 7-cis-hexadecen- 16-olide https://www.chemspider.com/Chemical-Structure.4517661.html Ambrettolide Buettner, A. (Ed.). (2017). Springer https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leopold_Ružička handbook of odor (p. 1100). Berlin/Heidelberg, Germany: Springer. 51  Ambra notes are appreciated in perfumery. The first product to be used was ambergris a mixture extracted from a pathological metabolite from the sperm whale which floats on the surface of the oceans after excretion Buettner, A. (Ed.). (2017). Springer handbook of odor (p. 1100). Berlin/Heidelberg, Germany: Springer. In 1940s, Leopold Ruzicka Woody notes are much used in perfumery. work on ambergris woody has been established by Pickenhagen discovered Ambrox A step-wise conversion from strong amber strong and typical ambery odor https://allthatsinteresting.com/amb ergris ‘Drakkar Noir’ (Guy Laroche, 1982) the high amounts of Ambrox https://www.etsy.com/il- en/listing/926875075/guy-laroche- Buettner, A. (Ed.). (2017). Springer handbook of odor (p. 1100). Berlin/Heidelberg, drakkar-noir-eau-de-toilette Germany: Springer. 52  In 1901, Moureu and Delange In 1988, Pierre Bourdon discovered Methyl heptyne doubled the amount of carboxylate (MHC, Folione) dromyrcenol in ‘Cool dry, green astringent Water’ (Davidoff , 1988) odorant lavender-like-smelling limited stability and its skin irritation 1988 Jean-Louis Sieuzac created ‘Fahrenheit’ (Dior, 1988) MHC is restricted in use today. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1002922699/davidoff -cool-water-man-for-him- rare?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type= Ohloff, G., Pickenhagen, W., Kraft, P., & Grau, F. (2022). Scent and all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=‘C http://raidersofthelostscent.blogs chemistry: the molecular world of odors. John Wiley & Sons. ool+Water’+%28Davidoff+%2C+1988%29&ref=sr_g allery-1- 1&pro=1&edd=1&sts=1&organic_search_click=1 pot.com/2015/04/fahrenheit- visual-guide-1988-2015.html 53  In the 1960s, Bryce Eugene Tate and Robert Pierce Allingham synthesized ethyl maltol Trend of the new chypres not found in nature In 2005, Christine Nagel the smell of crème caramel created Miss Dior In 1992, Olivier Cresp cherie (Christine Nagel, used a massive overdose of 0.5% ethyl maltol to 2005) recreate the caramel–chocolate–honey scent concept – Chypre ‘Angel’ (Thierry Mugler, 1992) Gourmand the first gourmand perfume a new family of fine fragrances https://www.fragranti https://www.etsy.com/listing/8917 ca.com/perfume/Dior 43658/miniature-perfume- /Miss-Dior-Cherie- thierry-mugler- 213.html angel?click_key=6fc5d2227bb473 53c08c29276fd7876524654bb5%3 https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Mugler/Angel-704.html A891743658&click_sum=70f04351 &ref=sold_out-4&pro=1&sts=1 54 The beginnings of NICHE perfume 21st century New the increased influence of perfume houses – come to refer to ‘NICHE’ Trends take up a specific market position niche houses slowly emerged from 1960s with onwards Diptyque in 1968 COVID- L’Artisan perfumeur in 1976 Annick Goutal in 1980 19 Nicolai in 1989 Le Labo in 2006 Kilian in 2007 https://scentgrail.com/perfume-lists/niche-perfume-brands/ https://stylesage.co/blog/fragrance-trends-2022/ 55  Glossary A grestic Note A ldehydic Note A mbery Note an odor note that refers to the a fatty–sweaty to pungent– a typical multifaceted odor herbaceous smell of the soapy odor note of the long- note that recalls natural geographical region of Provence chain C6–C14 aliphatic ambergris in southeastern France. aldehydes comprises minty– A B camphoraceous to herbaceous–floral notes like nimalic Note alsamic Note rosemary, lavender, marjoram, eucalyptus, and clary sage describing the typical character of a sweet, soft, and warm odor the phenolic domain products from the animal kingdom note of balms and resins, top to middle notes mainly the musk deer (musk), the comprising cinnamony, civet cat, and the beaver vanilla-like, and chocolate-like (castoreum ) elements 56  C hypre Perfume C itrus Note C oniferous Note a family and composition concept of describes the fresh, light character describes the fragrance of perfumes characterized by a of citrus fruits, such as oranges, coniferous trees and shrubs hesperidic top note of citrus notes mandarins, lemons, grapefruits, such as pine, spruce, and such as bergamot, orange, lemon, or bergamots, and limes. juniper neroli; a floral middle note, usually F F comprising rose and jasmine oil; and a mossy–woody–animalic fond loral Note ond derived from oakmoss and musks, often modified by patchouli, vetiver, describes the general ‘base note’ and ‘low note’ and ambergris. fragrance of diverse perfumery relates to the dry-down of a flowers, especially jasmine, perfume formula and rose, geranium, violet, orris, describes the third and last osmanthus, ylang-ylang, phase in the evaporation tuberose, lily, hyacinth, freesia, profile of a fragrance lilac, mimosa, narcissus, and honeysuckle http://parfumdespoir.com/Chypre_Fragrances.html 57  F ougère Perfume F ruity Note G reen Note