Cologne Accord: Fragrance Notes
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Questions and Answers

What type of accord is composed of notes such as Amber, Wood, Leather, and Chypre?

  • Fougere
  • Oriental
  • Chypre
  • Cologne (correct)

    • What is the term used to describe the odour of aliphatic aldehydes of chain length C8 to C12?

  • Aldehydic (correct)
  • Fougere
  • Balsamic
  • Oriental

    • What type of fragrance family is characterized by sweet smelling and warm notes?

  • Chypre
  • Oriental
  • Balsamic (correct)
  • Fougere

    • What is the name of the fragrance that first used synthetic aldehydes in 1921?

    <p>Chanel No. 5</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What type of accord is characterized by a fresh, modern, and clean smell?

    <p>Aquatic</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the name of the fragrance family that includes notes of citrus fruits?

    <p>Citrus</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What type of fragrance family is characterized by edible or dessert-like qualities?

    <p>Gourmand</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the base note commonly used in Chypre accords?

    <p>Labdanum</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the botanical name of the Benzoin oil?

    <p>Styrax Tonkinensis</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following is not a fragrance allergen?

    <p>Vanilla</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the botanical name of the Rose oil?

    <p>Rosa Centifolia</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the extraction method of the Vanilla?

    <p>CO2 Extract</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following oils is not used for odour control?

    <p>Orris</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the botanical name of the Frankincense oil?

    <p>Boswellia Carterii</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the function of MHC genes in the immune system?

    <p>To recognize foreign substances</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the potential benefit of having parents with different MHC types?

    <p>Stronger immune system</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is anosmia related to?

    <p>All of the above</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What role does MHC play in mate selection?

    <p>It determines attraction to a mate with a different MHC</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is an example of a basic survival instinct mediated by smell?

    <p>All of the above</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How does MHC influence our preferences for certain smells?

    <p>It correlates with our likes and dislikes of certain odors</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a potential application of anosmia diagnosis?

    <p>All of the above</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the relationship between pheromones and smell?

    <p>Pheromones are detected through smell</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary reason why odour can be a trigger for a complete memory?

    <p>Because of its emotional context</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following is NOT a factor that influences variation in odour perception?

    <p>Genetic makeup</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the term for the inability to perceive a specific odour or odour type?

    <p>Specific anosmia</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary purpose of the perfume industry initially?

    <p>For religious purposes</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the role of Creative Perfumery Houses in the perfume industry?

    <p>They create new perfume formulas</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the result of an individual's emotional, social, cultural, and visual contexts on odour perception?

    <p>It influences the perception of the odour</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the relationship between early experience and later likes and dislikes in feelings?

    <p>Early experience often affects later likes and dislikes</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the role of Contract Manufacturers in the perfume industry?

    <p>They manufacture perfumes on a large scale</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary purpose of collecting the odour-laden air above the botanical in the field?

    <p>To recreate the scent in the laboratory</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which organization is responsible for setting standards for the fragrance industry?

    <p>International Fragrance Association (IFRA)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary purpose of an in-house expert panel in fragrance creation?

    <p>To evaluate the fragrance's performance and hedonics</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the purpose of GCMS analysis in fragrance creation?

    <p>To analyze the composition of the botanical</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary purpose of a fragrance brief?

    <p>To define the product's functional and emotional benefits</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the purpose of selecting ingredients for white products?

    <p>To select ingredients suitable for a specific product</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the purpose of testing the fragrance's stability?

    <p>To ensure the fragrance remains in specification</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the purpose of archiving fragrance formulae?

    <p>To preserve fragrance ideas for future use</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Study Notes

    Cologne Accord

    • The Cologne accord has notes of amber, wood, leather, chypre, and fougere.

    Modern Accords

    • Bright floral: fragrance from one or several flowers.
    • Green: fragrance from cut grass or leaf, a light or more modern interpretation of the chypre type.
    • Aquatic: a very clean, modern smell leading to many modern androgynous perfumes (e.g., Christian Dior's Dune).
    • Citrus: has a freshening effect.
    • Fruity: aromas of fruits other than citrus.
    • Oriental: usually composed of specific notes (e.g., Ginestet Bortrytis).
    • Gourmand: scent with edible or desert-like qualities (e.g., Mugler's Angel).

    Odour Families

    Aldehydic

    • Refers to the odour of aliphatic aldehydes of chain length C8 to C12.
    • First used in Chanel 5 in 1921.
    • Many brands, including Dove, use aldehydic fragrances to this day.

    Balsamic

    • Sweet-smelling and warm odour family.
    • Includes notes like:
      • Benzoin (Styrax Tonkinensis)
      • Myrrh
      • Frankincense/Olibanum (Boswellia Carterii)
      • Opoponax
      • Peru Balsam
      • Tolu Balsam
      • Cistus
      • Labdanum
      • Vanilla (Vanilla Planifolia)

    Chypre

    • Uses base notes like:
      • Bergamot
      • Oakmoss
      • Patchouli
      • Vetivert
      • Sandalwood

    Fougere

    • A type of fragrance characterized by lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin.

    Fragrance Creation

    • Sources of creative inspiration:
      • Stimulation of the senses (sight, touch, sound, smell)
      • Fragrance ingredients, odours, and accords
      • Archive formulae
      • Fragrance brief (including product's functional and emotional benefits)
      • Market fragrances
    • Process:
      • Evaluator sets up an in-house expert panel to ensure performance and hedonics beat a selected benchmark.
      • Final fragrance ideas are put on test for stability, both in general and in specific for SPF.

    Headspace Analysis

    • Collects odour-laden air above the botanical (headspace) in the field.
    • Sample is then returned to the laboratory for GCMS analysis and the scent is recreated.

    Fragrance Regulation

    • International Fragrance Association (IFRA) founded in 1973.
    • Designed to protect the consumer and the environment.
    • Standards are divided into three groups:
      • Prohibited: material should not be used as they are harmful.
      • Restricted: material can be used but with certain restrictions.
      • Allowed: material can be used freely.

    Naturals and Odour Control

    • Various ingredients are used, including:
      • Oils (e.g., Benzoin, Frankincense, Lemon, Rosemary, Clove, Star Anise)
      • CO2 Extracts (e.g., Vanilla)
      • Absolutes (e.g., Geranium, Tonka Bean, Mimosa, Jasmine, Labdanum, Orris)

    Fragrance Allergens

    • All cosmetics that contain fragrances have the word "parfum" in the ingredients list.

    Odour and Memory

    • Odour can be a trigger for a complete memory, including the emotional context.
    • Early experiences often affect our later likes and dislikes in fragrance.

    The Perfume Industry

    • Key players:
      • Ingredient suppliers
      • Creative perfumery houses
      • Fine fragrance companies
      • Consumer products companies
      • Contract manufacturers

    The Sense of Smell

    • Functions:
      • Basic survival:
        • Warning (burning, spoiled foods, predators)
        • Feeding (appetite, food flavour, effect of anosmia)
        • Communication (babies, recognition, pheromones)
        • Mate selection (MHC – major histocompatibility complex)
      • Place and time (the smell of seasons, the smell of the sea)

    Variation in Odour Perception

    • The same odour may be perceived differently by different individuals due to:
      • Individual's emotional, social, cultural, and visual contexts
      • Physiological properties (e.g., specific anosmia, MHC, illness/deficiency)
    • Specific anosmia: when a specific olfactory gene is not functioning.
    • MHC (major histocompatibility complex): a group of genes that codes for proteins found on the surfaces of cells that help the immune system recognize foreign substances.

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    Description

    Learn about the different notes in Cologne Accord, including Amber, Wood, Leather, and more! Discover the modern interpretations of chypre and other fragrance types.

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