Cosmetics Preparations 2023 PDF

They may also be classified by their absorption spectrum. Original sunblocks were opaque formulations reflecting or scattering UVR. Color cosmetics containing a variety of inorganic pigments function in this fashion. TiO2 and ZnO are chemically inert and protect through the full spectrum...

They may also be classified by their absorption spectrum. Original sunblocks were opaque formulations reflecting or scattering UVR. Color cosmetics containing a variety of inorganic pigments function in this fashion. TiO2 and ZnO are chemically inert and protect through the full spectrum of UVR. They offer significant advantages. Poor cosmetic acceptance limited the widespread use of these two ingredients until microsized forms became available. By decreasing particle size of these materials to a microsize or ultrafine grade, it is less visible on the skin surface. 164 After-Sun Products Sunlight is highly energetic. Upon interaction with the skin, sunlight can be reflected, scattered, or absorbed. To initiate a physical or chemical process, light needs to be absorbed by an atom or molecule. Human skin is an abundant source of numerous chromophores with strong absorption, particularly in the UVB, UVA, and blue visible region, e.g., porphyrin, bilirubin 2, and pheomelanin 165  Irradiation of the skin with ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is today known as a major cause of skin cancer and of local and systemic immunosuppression and as a contributor of cutaneous photoaging. Major changes concern all parts of the dermis and the dermal- epidermal junction. UVR is proved to produce DNA damage directly and indirectly through oxidative stress. It provokes increased production of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), leading to local inflammation and connective tissue degradation. 166  Following intensive sun exposition, the skin needs appropriate care or treatment. Even after a sunbath without any signs of erythema, an appropriate skin care is recommended. In case of sunburn, treatment is necessary 167 After sun exposure preparations Most of the after-sun formulations are emulsions (lotions, creams, and sprays) or gels containing moisturizers and actives known for their anti-inflammatory and antioxidative effects. Only cosmetic, nondrug actives will be considered. Thus, active ingredients are usually of plant origin such as: azulene or bisabolol (from chamomile) glycyrrhizin (from the root of liquorice) hamamelis distillate (witch hazel) extracts from aloe vera or chamomile. Further compounds such as allantoin, panthenol, menthol, jojoba, collagen, silk amino acids, unsaturated fatty acids, and fat-soluble vitamins such as retinol (vitamin A) and vitamin E are also found. 168 Moisturizers Moisturizing substances are classical, well-known cosmetic ingredients used “to reduce the signs and symptoms of dry, scaly skin”. Certainly, effective moisturizers are important components of after- sun preparations 169 Anti-Inflammatory Substances They are incorporated into after-sun formulations to relieve erythema and its symptoms of pain, redness, and burning: 170  Hamamelis (Witch Hazel) Hamamelis is approved as an OTC astringent, external analgesic and skin-protecting categories. Since this plant is rich in astringent tannins and anti-oxidants and anti- inflammatory flavonoids that is effective for skin, made Witch Hazel recognized for its soothing properties. It has erythema-suppressing effect and low toxicity profile. 171  aloe vera Aloe vera gel considered on of the most common ingredient of after sun product. It shows healing effect on mild to moderate sun burns, and prevent peeling that happened after sun burns. Aloe vera give the skin cooling effect and keep it moisture. 172  Cooling Compounds: Menthol and related “cooling agents” such as camphor, alcohol, and other compounds are widely used in cosmetics and particularly in after- sun products. Incorporation of cooling agents such as menthol or alcohol in after-sun preparations is meaningful, as they soothe and alleviate the sensations of warmth and tenseness of sun-irritated skin, at least for a short time. This clearly improves their cosmetic acceptance. 173 Antioxidants Use of antioxidants in after-sun preparations aims at replenishing the depleted antioxidant pool and/or at boosting or reinforcing the antioxidant defenses of the horny layer and not necessarily at a direct effect on sun-exposed skin. For this purpose, substances such as vitamins of the A, C, and E series, ubiquinones (coenzyme Q10), and/or plant polyphenols from green tea (catechins), vine (resveratrol), pomegranate (anthocyanidins and hydrolizable tannins) or soybeans (genistein) are now incorporated in many after-sun preparations 174  The human skin contains various antioxidants such as: A. lipophilic ones: vitamin E with its active components tocopherol and tocotrienol, ubiquinones (coenzyme Q10), carotenoids, and vitamin A  B. hydrophilic ones (vitamin C, uric acid, and glutathione) and enzymatic antioxidants (catalase, etc.) stratum corneum is the most environmentally exposed skin layer, it would benefit from an increased antioxidant capacity due to topical supplementation. 175  Green tea extract is an interesting antioxidant for topical application. A protection against UVA is possible. The principal chemical constituents of green tea are: polyphenols containing epigalocatechin (EGC), epicatechin (EC), epicatechin-3-gallate (ECG), and epigalocatechin gallate (EGCG). Topical EGCG has been shown to reduce UV-carcinogenesis in animal model. Recent studies suggest that green tea polyphenols mediate almost probably their UV-protective effects via induction of DNA repair. 176  Shea Butter Shea butter is a nontoxic and nonirritating material. Shea butter has healing properties, e.g., the elimination of superficial irritation and erythema. It contains 5% to 10% phytosterols which activate cellular growth stimulation. Also, it contains potent antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene. It has a highly unsaturated glyceridic fraction, which makes it useful as UV screen. Clinical studies were performed with shea butter showing protecting, regenerating, wound-healing, and wrinkle-reducing effects, moisturizing, soothing, antiageing, and anti-inflammatory properties and contributes to an efficient release of active ingredients. 177  Olive Oil Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) has potent anti-ROS activity. If EVOO painted on skin immediately after UVB radiation it will retard the onset and reduce the number of skin cancer and ROS-induced DNA damage. Of the olive oil components tested, oleuropein has been found to reduce ROS-induced skin damage. 178 Artificial Tanning The desire for a tanned appearance along with increasing awareness of the hazards of ultraviolet (UV) light exposure has generated a renewed interest in artificial tanning products. Better formulations of sunless or self-tanners with improved aesthetics are more widely available. 179 Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) DHA is the active ingredient in sunless or self-tanners, and is responsible for darkening the skin by staining. DHA is classified in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook as a colorant or a colorless dye. Other agents with the potential to enhance skin pigmentation, including tan accelerators containing tyrosine and other ingredients. 180 Structure of DHA DHA dimer DHA monomer 181  The site of action of DHA is the stratum corneum. This 3-carbon sugar forms a dimer in freshly prepared aqueous solution. With heating to effect a solution in alcohol, ether, or acetone, it reverts to the monomer. The monomeric form is less stable, but more important in the browning reaction, which leads to the skin color change. 182  Formulation of Artificial Tanning The concentration range of DHA in self-tanning products can range from 2.5% to 10%, with the usual concentration being 5%. Labeling products as light, medium, or dark can be particularly helpful with the depth of shade a function of the DHA concentration. 183  DHA is predominantly formulated in O/w emulsions. Formulating with silicones allows the formulator to obtain the spreadability of oils, which potentially reduces streakiness with application to the skin. Minimizing particle size of the micelles in the emulsion chosen also improves uniformity of spreading the formulation on the skin surface. 184  As with moisturizing products in general, lotions are more readily accepted by consumers than are creams with ease of spreadability and aesthetics. Creams can produce a more intense tan owing to greater applied film thickness. Products may be formulated for dry-skin types by the addition of emollients and humectants. Products formulated in gel or alcoholic vehicles may be more suitable for oily skin. Newer vehicles include sprays, foams, mousses, and wipes. 185 DHA and SPF DHA itself has at most a modest effect on SPF, providing perhaps SPF 3 or 4. SPF increases with DHA concentration and number of applications 186 7- ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS Cosmetic Preparations 2022/2023 187  Aging is a natural process Both intrinsic aging (also described as biological aging), and photoaging lead progressively to a loss of structural integrity and physiological function of the skin Aging Intrinsic photoaging 188 189  Intrinsic Aging Structural changes occur in the skin as a natural consequence of the biological changes over time. It produces a certain number of histological, physiological, and biochemical modifications. It is determined genetically (influence of gender and ethnic group) It is influenced by hormonal changes. Visually it is characterized by fine wrinkles. Intrinsic aging or chronologic or biological aging is, by definition, unavoidable, since it represents the biological effect of time on the skin, which is not influenced by repetitive sun exposure. 190  Histologically, the following changes occur with time: 1. Epidermal and dermal atrophy 2. Gradual reduction in the amount of collagen 3. Hyperkeratosis (thickening of the outer layer of the skin. The outer layer contains a tough, protective protein called keratin which is normal protect the skin) 191 4. Reduced number of melanocytes, Langerhans cells, which are tissue-resident macrophages of the skin that are antigen- presenting immune cells of the skin and mucosa, and contain large organelles called Birbeck granules. They are present in all layers of the epidermis, but are most prominent in the stratum spinosum, and fibroblasts. 5. A shortening in telomere DNA and metabolic oxidative damage are believed to play a major role in the intrinsic aging process. 192  The synergy of intrinsic aging and photoaging during the life span produces a deterioration of the cutaneous barrier. Aged skin is more susceptible to extreme dryness, itching, cutaneous infections, autoimmune disorders, vascular complications, lack of elasticity, and an increased risk for premalignant and malignant lesions. The major intrinsic skin aging risk factors are: anatomical skin sites variations, gender, ethnicity, and hormonal changes. 193 194 Photoaging (Extrinsic Skin Aging) The term used to describe the changes occurring in the skin, resulting from repetitive exposure to UV of the sunlight. The histological, physiological, and biochemical changes in the different layers of the skin are much more drastic. As a result, the photo-damaged skin may present various symptoms such as: 1. deep wrinkles 2. actinic keratosis, 3. solar elastosis 4. Yellowing and pigmentation disorders 5. premalignant lesions 6. laxity 7. skin atrophy 8. roughness 9. senile purpura, 10. telangiectasia 195  Most of the alterations appear in the dermis of photo- aged skin and include massive accumulation of abnormal elastic fibers, loss of collagen. The fibrous network degenerates into amorphous masses modifying the structure of the matrix. UV-mediated damage to elastic fibers and fibroblasts provokes the accumulation of this elastic material. Alteration in the dermal extracellular matrix in photo-aged skin could involve the production of abnormal matrix molecules by the fibroblasts. 196 Exposure to UV Light UV light penetrates skin, it interacts with different skin layers located at different depths (depending on wavelength). Shorter wavelengths (UVB, 280–320 nm) are mostly absorbed in the epidermis, affecting predominantly keratinocytes. Longer-wavelength UV light (UVA, 320–340 nm) penetrates deeper and can interact with keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. The melanin-pigmented cells absorb UV light and thus protect skin cells from exposure to UV radiation. 197 198  UVA light mostly acts indirectly through generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). “ROS” is a general term for oxygen-derived species (superoxide anion, hydroxyl radical, and certain peroxides). ROS exert a multitude of effects such as lipid peroxidation, activation of matrix metalloproteinases and generation of DNA, and mitochondrial DNA damage. UVB light can also generate ROS, its main mechanism of action is the interaction with DNA, provoking DNA damage. 199 Skin’s Antioxidant Defense Mechanisms The skin presents an antioxidant defense mechanism, including an enzymatic and nonenzymatic system. As an enzymatic system, superoxide dismutases, catalase and a selenium glutathione peroxidase, converting superoxide anion in hydrogen peroxide and hydrogen peroxide in water, respectively. As endogenous antioxidants we find glutathione, a-lipoic acid, coenzyme Q, etc. Other antioxidants, such as vitamins and polyphenolic compounds, can be obtained from diet. An increase of ROS (depletion of the antioxidant system) will cause oxidative stress, leading to potential tissue damage. 200 Exposure to UV Light: inflammation Sun damage also induce a state of chronic inflammation, with the release of proteolytic enzymes by the inflammatory system, disrupting the dermal matrix. Sunburn is a well documented acute effect of sun exposure and is presented as erythema triggered by inflammation. After a certain threshold of UV exposure is reached, a delayed and prolonged vasodilatation allows the passage of lymphocytes and macrophages in the tissues, which induces inflammation, leading to a histological appearance of chronic inflammation. The intake of antioxidants or anti-inflammatory compounds was suggested to reduce erythema provoked by UV irradiation. 201 Effect of Smoking Smoking has an aggravating effect on skin aging. Cigarette smoke represents one of the greatest exogenous sources of free radicals. The skin is directly and intensively exposed to cigarette smoke and to smoke from exhalation. Even external exposure to cigarette smoke (second hand cigarette smoke) prematurely ages the skin. Smoking provokes elastosis, skin roughness, and premature wrinkles on facial skin due to the vascular constriction of nicotine. A clear dose-response relationship has been observed between smoking and wrinkling. Smoking also increases ROS formation and is an important risk for cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma. 202 Cosmetic or Cosmeceutical Antiaging Products? FDA do not recognize such category as “cosmeceuticals” and consider these formulations as cosmetic products. The term cosmeceutical or its synonym terminology is often misused in cosmetic advertising and may be misleading to the consumer. The term interprets a cosmeceutical to be similar to a pharmaceutical product in which these formulations have passed with success the tests for efficacy, safety, and quality control as required for a medical preparation. Product testing may also be warranted by the companies to document claimed efficacy and to support marketing. 203 Cosmetic preparation for antiaging category Moisturizers Surface-Smoothing Agents Retinoids α- and β-Hydroxy Acids Antioxidants UV Filters Miscellaneous Plant Extracts A Stretch-Mark Cream Which Was Used as an Antiwrinkle Cream Small Lipopolypeptides 204 Moisturizers The classical moisturizers are used for treating dryness in the photo-aged skin: 1. polyols (glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and sorbitol), 2. urea, 3. lactic acid and salts, 4. hyaluronic and salts, 5. pyrrolodone-5-carboxylic acid and salts (PCA), 6.panthenol, 7. amino acids and proteins (collagen and proteins from wheat, rice, silk, soybean, and oat). 205 Moisturizers More sophisticated peptides and proteins are presently used as moisturizers. It concerns generally more lipophilic quaternary N-alkyl derivatives of proteins or small polypeptides with long side chains (ester binding) to increase the lipophilic character: binding to the horny layer and a better percutaneous absorption. The use of small peptides, which mimic the amino acid sequence of collagen or enzymes (biomimetic peptides), has been proposed as moisturizers recently. For a better percutaneous penetration, small fragments of hyaluronic acid were also suggested 206  Hyaluronic acid (HA): is the main component in the body that provides skin structure, and is responsible for the hydrated look. HA is involved in some moisturizer creams specially anti-aging creams and serums. HA benefits: Anti-aging, Anti-wrinkle Moisturizing Increases skin elasticity 207 Surface-Smoothing Agents Surface-smoothing silicone derivatives or filmogen proteins such as quaternized proteins or silk, rice and oat are used in antiaging products. The high adsorption to the skin surface provokes a smoothing of the skin surface and is at the same time humectant. 208 Retinoids The use of retinoic acid as a topical antiaging ingredient has been extensively investigated. The efficacy of this topical drug has been scientifically proved: reversing fine wrinkles, non homogenous skin pigmentation and rough skin surface. However, the typical side effects of topical application of retinoic acid, known as retinoid dermatitis, occur in most patients (erythema, scaling, and pruritis) limit the use of this topical drug. 209 Retinoids Current research on similar molecules with the same antiaging properties but without the irritant side effects are going on. Retinol, retinal, and different retinol derivatives (retinyl palmitate ¼ lipophilic derivate and retinyl propionate ¼ hydrophilic derivative) are frequently proposed in topical antiaging treatments. Retinol and retinal must be metabolized in the skin to the active trans- retinoic acid. The incorporation of retinol and probably retinal in cosmetic preparations rises stability issues due to slow oxidation of retinol in function of time. New delivery systems and derivatives of retinol may solve the problem of stability of these preparations. 210 α- and β-Hydroxy Acids Hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid at lower concentrations than those used in dermatological peelings are designed to remove the superficial epidermal layers of the skin and give a younger appearance (exfoliation and rejuvenation). 211 Antioxidants In cosmetic treatments, antioxidants are widely innovative ingredients in topical antiaging applications. The target of these active ingredients is to counter the ROS molecules produced in the skin. The most important antioxidants are vitamin C, vitamin E, coenzyme Q, and α-lipoic acid. 212 Antioxidants The combined topical use of retinoids, niacinamide, N-acetyl glucosamine, and moisturizing peptides has recently been reported. Mixture of folic acid and creatine exhibited improvements in the mechanical properties of the skin. Furthermore, studies demonstrated an improvement of the photoaged dermal matrix by topical application of a cosmetic “antiaging” product containing a lipoentapeptide, white lupin, and retinyl palmitate 213 Antioxidants Plant antioxidants have recently been investigated with promising results: polyphenols in green tea, soya isoflavones genistein and daidzein, tannins in pomegranate, and resveratrol in seeds of grape. The topical use of resveratol, a polyphenol from red grapes with great antioxidant activity in skin care formulation, has been reported. The efficacy of soybean extract against photoaging was indicating the promise of the soya isoflavones. Finally, the effects of green tea extracts in the clinical and histological appearance of photoaging skin were also reported in literature 214 UV Filters Protection of the skin against photoaging is ensured by the use of broad-spectrum UV filters either by radiation absorption or by light reflection. As a consequence, one reduces the total lifetime UV dose. Most cosmetic antiaging creams and lotions contain a mixture of UVA and UVB filters with SPF around 15 to 20. 215 Miscellaneous Plant Extracts Upon noticing the composition of most commercial antiaging formulations, It is clear that the use of plant ingredients is intense. The slide below ↓ illustrates an overview of the plant extracts mostly used. The rationale of antiaging efficacy of these plant extracts is mainly based on folk medicine, general anecdotic or subjective information, and much less on sound clinical published studies concerning double- blind, vehicle-controlled antiaging treatments over long periods 216 List of plant extracts used in cosmetics Sesamum indicum, Prunus Amygdalis dulcis, Phyllanthus umblica, Siegesbeckia orientalis, Theobroma cacao, Bytospermum parkii, Mangifera indica, Mentha piperada, Aleurits moluccana, Glycurrhiza glabra, Arcostaphylos uva, Imperata cylindrica, Centella asiatica, Echinacea purpurea, Camelia sinensis, Thea sinensis, Hordeum vulgare, Crithium maritimum, Plantago lanceolata, Phellodendron amurense, Spirea ulmaria, Artemisia vulgaris, Santalum album, Rosmarinus officinalis, Centella asiatica, Curcuma longa, Aloe vera, Arnica calendula, Ginkgo biloba, various algae such as Fucus vesiculosus, Laminaria flexicaulis, Ascophyllum nodosum. 217 Skin-Whitening Agents 1st semester 2022/2023 218 INTRODUCTION Skin hyperpigmentation is common and often causes psychosocial distress. Therapeutically interventions include: whitening agents, chemical peels, lasers, and physical methods. Although multiple interventions are available, skin- whitening agents, due to their simplicity and convenience, continue to be the mainstay of approach to either lighten skin. Treatment for abnormal hyperpigmentation skin such as: melasma, freckles, and actinic lentigines) in the clinical therapy. Commonly used whitening agents include: hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, and its derivatives. 219  Melasma is a chronic skin disorder that results in symmetrical, blotchy, brownish facial pigmentation. It can lead to considerable embarrassment and distress 220  Freckles They are small, harmless marks that appear on the skin. Genetics and sun exposure are the primary causes of freckles. A person's skin cells produce extra melanin to protect the skin from sun damage. This is why freckles tend to appear after sun exposure. Freckles are harmless and do not need treatment. However, if people want to remove or lighten freckles for cosmetic reasons, some treatments can reduce their appearance. 221  Actinic lentigines: A benign, localized brownish patch on the skin, often occurring in old age and usually in fair-skinned people with sun-damaged skin. Also called age spot. 222  Hydroquinone Hydroquinone is used in the photographic, rubber, chemical, and cosmetic industries. In the late 1930s, it was observed that monobenzyl ether of hydroquinone, a chemical used in the manufacture of rubber, caused depigmented skin in some workers. The efficacy of hydroquinone as a skin-lightening agent has been established in both human and animal studies. Clinically, hydroquinone is applied topically in the treatment of melasma, freckles, and senile lentigines as well as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). In the United States, hydroquinone is available in concentrations up to 2% as an over the counter (OTC) drug and by prescription at higher concentrations. 223  Hydroquinone inhibits the conversion of dopa to melanin by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme. Other proposed mechanisms are inhibition of DNA and RNA synthesis, degradation of melanosomes, and destruction of melanocytes. Electron microscopic studies of black guinea pig skin treated with hydroquinone show the anatomic consequences of this action: i. The melanosome structure is disturbed, resulting in decreased production or increased degradation of these organelles, or both; ii. Hydroquinone exposure can ultimately lead to melanocyte degradation iii. Keratinocytes are spared, showing no apparent injury. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK539693/ 224  Adverse reactions associated with hydroquinone use include both acute and chronic complications. Among acute reactions are irritant dermatitis, nail discoloration, and PIH Hydroquinone use can also induce hypopigmentation and, rarely, depigmentation of treated surrounding normal skin. But, these changes are temporary and resolve on cessation of hydroquinone treatment. A more recent concern regarding the use of hydroquinone is the occurrence of hydroquinone-induced ochronosis, a chronic disfiguring condition resulting, in general, from the prolonged use of high concentrations of hydroquinone 225  Mequinol 4-Hydroxyanisole , derivative of Hydroquinone Less irritative Inhibits Tyrosinase Used in 2-4% concentration Used in combination with tretinoin Safe & effective treatment in dark skin types Favourable benefit-risk ratio compared to hydroquinone 226 Arbutin Glycosylated hydroquinones derived from leaves of bearberry, pear and cranberry Inhibits Tyrosinase activity Inhibits melanosome maturation Efficacy is concentration dependant Paradoxical hyperpigmentation seen with higher doses Alpha-Arbutin & Deoxy-Arbutin are synthetic. Show greater tyrosinase inhibition Effective in lightening solar lentigines 227  Azelaic Acid Dicarboxylic acid isolated from Pityrosporum ovale Used in 15-20% concentrations less irritant Significantly greater decreases in pigmentary intensity Combination with 15-20% glycolic- as efficacious as 4% HQ in treating PIH, melasma Side effects are mild and temporary- pruritus, erythema, scaling and irritation 228  Niacinamide Niacinamide, which is also called nicotinamide, is one of two major forms of vitamin B3 (niacin) found in supplements (the other is nicotinic acid). It's often used to help manage acne, rosacea, pigmentation issues (UV induced hyperpigmentation ), and wrinkles. Decreases melanogenesis Concentrations of 2-5% Alone or with N-acetyl glucosamine 229  N-Acetyl Glucosamine Amino sugar which is a precursor to Hyaluronic acid Inhibits tyrosinase glycosylation Used in 2% concentration alone or in combination with niacinamide Well tolerated with mild- moderate irritation Safe and efficacious in treatment of hyperpigmentation secondary to sun exposure 230 Kojic Acid Kojic acid, a fungal metabolic product, is increasingly being used as a skin-lightening agent in skin care products marketed in Japan since 1988. It was first isolated from Aspergillus in 1907 Kojic acid suppresses free tyrosinase, mainly attributable to chelation of its copper Kojic acid has been shown to be responsible for therapy and prevention of pigmentation, both in vitro and in vivo. In Japan, it is used in non-prescription skin care products up to a concentration of 1%. To increase percutaneous absorption and thus therapeutic activity, it is usually used at the highest concentration allowed. Since it is used intensively in foods (such as bean paste, soy) in some countries, particularly Japan, its oral safety has been studied. 231 Ascorbic Acid and its Derivatives Research has shown that the application of topical Vitamin C lightens skin effectively. Vitamin C lightens skin by inhibiting the amount of melanin your pigment skin cells generate. When applied topically, vitamin C interacts with tyrosinase, the main enzyme responsible for the conversion of the amino acid tyrosine into melanin, thereby reducing pigmentation. Topical vitamin C in the form of creams, serums and other products work to reduce the amount of melanin produced by pigment skin cells. Vitamin C applied topically is effective at addressing hyperpigmentation conditions such as dark spots, melasma, age spots, and sun spots, among others. 232 Botanicals: Arbutin 1% Mulberry extract Licorice extract Aloesin Gentisic acid Flavonoids Hesperidin Ascorbic acid Niacinamide Poly phenols Soy proteins Yeast derivatives 233 9-Facial masks Cosmetic Preparations 1st Semester 2022/2023 234  The use of facial masks and mud baths dates to antiquity, when muds were credited with almost miraculous healing powers 235 Types of masks 1. The preferred and most common types of masks are based on smectite and kaolin clay combinations with and without gums and polymers supporting the viscosity and feel. 2. Wax masks, which must be applied heated. 3. Latex face mask. Although it does not provide pleasant application or feel and may pose a health concern. 4. Facial strips that contain fast-drying resins have replaced the vinyl resin masks. 5. The hydrocolloid masks which do not have the luxurious feel or the following of clay masks. 236 The essential considerations in formulating a contemporary mask are as follows: 1. It should be a smooth paste or gel without flocculation or gritty particles. 2. It should not have an "earthy" or objectionable odor. 3. It should form an adherent coating that can be easily removed by gentle washing. 4. It should produce a definite sensation of tightening or a therapeutic tingling or warming. 5. It should produce a perceptible modification of skin, hair, or scalp feel. 6. It should produce a significant and noticeable cleansing of the skin, scalp, or hair. 7. It should enhance volume and impart shine to the hair. 8. It must be nontoxic, dermatologically innocuous, and appropriately preserved. 237 CLAY MASKS The naturally occurring smectite clays, commonly referred to as bentonite and kaolin clays, are typically the primary ingredients of a clay mask. Bentonite gels have been described as soothing to the skin. These gels have also been used in a number of dermatological preparations such as acne treatment masks with benzoyl peroxide. They can also play a significant role in the treatment of eczema, abscesses, sores, and wounds. Bentonite is characterized by its ability to swell in water and develop desirable rheological properties in aqueous compositions by forming a colloidal dispersion. 238  Bentonite will suspend particulates, stabilize formulations, and optimize flow and application characteristics. Viscosity of the dispersion is influenced by pH and by the addition of electrolytes. Proper hydration of the bentonite is the most significant step in the formulation of the mask. Failure to properly hydrate the smectite clay may result in formula instability, separation, settling, or syneresis. 239 240 241  WAX MASKS Wax-based masks generally consist of paraffin and microcrystalline wax blended to melt a few degrees above body temperature. They may also include petrolatum or mineral oil and polar materials such as cetyl and stearyl alcohols. The more highly formulated wax masks are seen predominantly in professional salons 242 243 RUBBER MASKS Rubber-based face masks are not currently popular because they are not perceived as "natural“. Sensitized individuals are prone to develop contact dermatitis caused by the presence of residual accelerators. The other more serious concern is that of allergic reactions to latex. Natural rubber latex derived from the sap of a rubber tree contains proteins that can cause allergies. These allergic reactions are severe and may include death. There is a deproteinized natural latex available that has been treated with a proteolytic enzyme and should be considered during formulation. 244 245  VINYL MASKS The vinyl-based products are known as peelable face masks. They were popular product lines because of their "chemical" nature. They are generally based on polyvinyl alcohol or vinyl acetate resin as the film-former. Vinyl masks do not provide the physical and psychological sensations of clay masks. Today face strips that pull out impurities and blackheads have effectively replaced them 246 247 248 HYDROCOLLOID MASKS Hydrocolloid masks are based on organic gums such as tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, gelatin, casein, carrageenan, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, acacia, and guar gum, and polyvinylpyrrolidone, carbomers (or mixtures) The shrinking of the gel upon dehydration produces the sensation of tightness The film may be plasticized by the addition of common humectants such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylène glycol, or sorbitol 249 250 10-COSMETIC PREPARATIONS FOR NAILS 1st semester 2022/2023 251 CONTENTS: 1. Nail lacquers: 2. Enamel removers 3. Cuticle remover 4. Cuticle softeners 5. Nail cream 6. Nail strengthener 7. Nail white 8. Nail dryer 9. Plastic fingernails and elongators 10.Pharmaceutical nail lacquer. 252 INTRODUCTION : The nail plate is composed of keratinized cells that originate in the epidermis of the nail matrix Nails are transparent protective coverings on finger tips and toes of feet. The care of nails is referred to as Manicuring. Manicure preparations include: Nail lacquer/enamel/paint/varnish Enamel remover Powder polish Nail cream Nail bleach Cuticle remover Cuticle softener 253 Nail Polishes : Definition : “Nail polish are viscous preparations intended to decorate nails for fingers and toes”. Ideal Characteristics: It should have proper viscosity wetting and flow properties. It should have uniform color. It should have good gloss and good adhesive properties. It should have sufficient flexibility so that it does not crack or become brittle. It should have sufficient hard surface which is resistant to impact and scratch. It should have reasonable drying time (1-2 minutes) without developing bloom. It should be able to maintain the above mentioned properties for a reasonable time (about 1 week ). 254 Formulation of nail polish: Nail polish system Lacquer base Colouring agents Additives Film former Dyes Suspending agents Resin Lakes Opacifying agents Solvent Pigments UV absorbers Plasticizer Pearl essence Perfume 255  Nail polish base (raw materials) Film formers: The agent that forms the nonsticky, flexible, and glossy coat adhering to the surface of the nail after the solvents have evaporated. Impart hardness, toughness, resistance to abrasion , viscosity to some extent. Example on polymers act as film former: Nitrocellulose, cellulose acetate , cellulose acetate butylate, ethyl cellulose, vinyl polymers and various polymers of methacrylate. 256  Nail polish base (raw materials) Resins: Polymeric resins remain as major components of the film after evaporation of the solvents. Depending on their chemistry, polymeric resins can be considered as plasticizing or softening agents, dry-time enhancers, secondary film- formers, gloss promoters, and nail adhesion improvers Helps in dispersing insoluble pigments and lakes. Natural resins: Shellac, benzoin, gum dammar, sandarac, ester gums. Synthetic resins: Sulphonamide-formaldehyde resins (poly aryl sulphonamides). Commercial resins : Santolite MHP : Claimed to Increase hardness of nitrocellulose and impart gloss to it. Santolite MS 80% : Claimed to increase moisture resistance. 257 Solvents: Solvents are liquids that allow a nail polish to flow and make it applicable. They also play a primary role in the dry-time of the film and in the characteristics of the dry film, as very small quantities of these solvents remain in the film. They are volatile organic liquids that combine all the ingredients of lacquer formulation and make a homogeneous viscous preparation. Convey brushability and for regulating its drying time , viscosity of the preparation. High BP-gives a brighter film. Low BP-Lowers viscosity and covering power. 258 Solvents: 1. Active solvents: True solvents E.g., esters, ketones and glycol ethers for Nitrocellulose. 2. Couplers: Not solvents but in conjugation increase the strength of other solvents. 3. Diluents: Diluents are non-solvents for nitrocellulose. They stabilize viscosity, to carry resins in solution and to reduce the effect of subsequent applications on the coat of enamel already applied, to lower the overall cost of the product. Eg., Aromatic and aliphatic hydrocarbons and alcohols like toluene, benzene, xylene, hexane, heptanes, naphthas, light petroleum ether. 259 Plasticizer: Responsible for flexibility and adhesiveness to the film, and also effect viscosity and the volatility or rate of drying. The film (nail polish after dryness) must adapt to the nature of finger nail: flexible, moving, and changing surface o Two types of plasticizers: 1. Solvent plasticizers: Act as solvents and are of high molecular weight. E.g. butyl acetyl ricinoleate. 2. Non-Solvents plasticizers: Act as a softener. Example: Castor oil 260 Pigments and nacreous (‫ )ﺻﺪﻓﻲ‬pigments The DCMA (Dry Color Manufacturers Association) defines a pigment as a colored particulate organic or inorganic solid that is usually insoluble in, and essentially physically and chemically unaffected by, the vehicle or substance into which it is incorporated. The coloring agents must comply with the terms of Drug and Cosmetic act , should disperse well, be resistant to light , acids and alkali found in detergents , be non-staining and produce a good gloss. 261 Pigments and nacreous (‫ )ﺻﺪﻓﻲ‬pigments Pigments are divided into three categories: mineral pigments or inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and nacreous pigments Titanium dioxide, iron oxide, ultramarine blue, Chrome oxide green. Organic pigments are divided into lakes and toner:  A toner is an organic pigment that is free of inorganic pigment or extender  a lake is an organic pigment that has been combined with an inorganic or organic extender substance (aluminum hydroxide, barium sulfate, etc.). 262  Pigments and nacreous (‫ )ﺻدﻓﻲ‬pigments Impart acceptable shade to the lacquer base. Dyes: Soluble dyes alone normally cannot impart sufficient depth of color, abandoned due to staining the surface & surroundings of the nail. E.g. on dyes, eosin, erythrosine, carmosine, rhodamine Pearl essence: Pearl essence is a suspension of crystalline guanine ( 2-amino-6-hydroxy purine) in nitrocellulose and solvents. 263  Additives Acrylics, polyesters, polymers, or nylon are included where the claim is to improve nail strength Water to improve wetting of the nail Vitamins, proteins, and even diamond dust can be incorporated UV absorbers: To prevent deterioration of ingredients due to UV light e.g., Benzophenones and its derivatives. Perfume: used mainly to counteract the unpleasant odour of the solvents as synthetic perfumes are preferred. 264  Additives Suspending agents: Suspending properties have been achieved by developing thixotropic system using pre-heated colloidal clays. Example: benzyl dimethyl hydrogenated tallow, ammonium montmorillonite (Bentone 27), dimethyl dioctadecyl ammonium bentonite (Bentone 34) Opacifying agents: These are agents help developing shades which will reflect the same colour on the nails as they are in the bottle. E.g., titanium dioxide, zinc oxide. 265 Production and control The manufacture of nail enamels involves following distinct processes: Grinding of pigments: Manufacture of Nail lacquers Mixing of pigments with lacquer Safety aspects 266  Formulation of a Pearlescent Nail lacquer: Ingredients % Nitrocellulose 14.90 Butyl acetate 34.04 Toulene 30.00 Toulene sulphonamide formaldehyde resin 7.10 Dibutyl phthalate 4.80 Camphor 2.40 Stearyl konium hectorite 1.20 Benzophenone - 1 0.20 D & C Red No. 7 , Calcium lake 0.08 D & C , No. Red. No.34 , Calcium Lake 0.05 FD&C,No.5,Aluminium lake 0.08 Bismuth oxychloride (25%) 5.00 267 Iron oxides 0.15  Filling: Since nail lacquers are highly inflammable, filling, capping and packing must be carried out under fire- proof and explosion-proof conditions. Proper care and precautions should be followed, for example, good ventilation, proper electrical wiring and prohibition of cigarette smoking in the working area. 268  Packing & labelling: Glass bottles with a brush applicator is the most conventional container which is used for the packaging of nail lacquers. The capacity varies from 8ml to 18ml. The applicator consists of an air-tight aluminium canister with an acrylic fiber tip or nib which applies polish directly to nails. 269  Evaluation : Before nail lacquer is packed , the following tests should be carried out as a measure of quality control : Color matching Drying rate Non-volatile content Smoothness Gloss Hardness Application properties Abrasion resistance Adhesion Water resistance Viscosity Stability 270 Specialty nail lacquer 271  Enamel removers: Definition : Nail removers / nail cleansers are defined as the mixture of solvents containing small amounts of fat intended to remove the nail enamel. Ideal Characteristics: An ideal lacquer remover should have the following characteristics : It should not be too volatile to evaporate during application. It should not be irritating to surrounding skin. It should not leave the nails fatty or sticky. It should not have strong degreasing effect to leave nails brittle. It should not have unpleasant and obtrusive odour. 272 Types and formulation of Enamel Removers: Type I contains solvent blends and a small percentage of oily materials. Formula : Ingredients % Castor oil 2.5 Diethylene glycol mono ethyl ether 14.5 Acetone 83.0 273  Type 2 (Non smearing enamel) contains Water and water miscible solvents. Formula : Ingredients % Water 10.0 Ethyl acetate 90.0 Method of preparation : A simple remover prepared by mixing water and ethyl acetate. 274  Type 3 ( Cream type enamel remover) contains solvent, waxes and soap. Formula : Ingredients % Bees wax 3.0 Micro-crystalline wax 1.0 Acetylated monoglycerides 10.0 Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether 52.0 Ethyl acetate 15.0 Stearic acid 15.0 Triethanolamine 4.0 Method of preparation : Melt all ingredients except triethanolamine , add triethanolamine to the mixture with stirring and allow to cool. 275  Type 4 (Gel type varnish remover) contains hydroxy propyl cellulose. Formula : Ingredients % Hydroxy propyl cellulose 1.0 Butyrol acetone 75.0 PPG-12-PEG-50 lanolin 1.0 Pigment (in Butyrol acetone) 0.1 Sodium hydroxide (5% aqueous) qs Water To make 100.0 276  Type 5 ( Conditioning nail polish remover) contains Maleated Soybean oil and acetone. Formula : Ingredients % Malleated Soyabean oil 10.0 Acetone 90.0 Method of preparation : Simple mixing of oil in the solvent. 277  Evaluation of nail enamel remover: Subjects were given a supply of the test nail polish remover, nail enamel and cotton pads, along with instructions for use and a diary. Subjects were instructed to remove their nail enamel using the test product provided, 3 times per week for 4 weeks for a total of 12 uses. Subjects were instructed to use their usual brand of hand care products and not to introduce the use of any new hand care or nail products for the duration of the study. Subjects returned after 4 weeks of use for a final evaluation of the cuticles for signs of irritation. The last use of the test product was within 24 hours of the final product. 278 Cuticle remover The cornification of skin adjoins the nail, the dead cells, together with sebum, form an irregular appendage that grows thick and ragged and partially obscures the "half-moon" or lunula. Cuticle removers are based principally on alkaline materials in liquid or cream form. One of the most effective and relatively inexpensive materials is potassium hydroxide, and about 1-5% of this material in aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution forms the basis for many preparations. Humectants such as glycerin or propylene glycol, at a level of 10- 20% counteract the irritation potential of alkali hydroxides, retard evaporation, and increase viscosity. 279  Cuticle softeners A preparation with emollience facilitates subsequent mechanical removal of the cuticle. Quaternary ammonium compounds are prominent in this preparation. Their softening action is the result of their affinity for protein and increases with increasing molecular weight. Cetyl pyridinium chloride and stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride are typically used at levels of 3-5%. They also exert some bactericidal action. Urea may promote the swelling of keratin and enhance cuticle softening Lanolin or isopropyl myristate will improve emollience effect. Nonionic thickening agents such as methylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose are used to increase the viscosity. 280  Nail cream Nails are not porous, although they permit the penetration of externally applied materials through the nail plate, including moisture that helps maintain flexibility The moisture content of nails is less than half that of the stratum corneum, and total lipid content is less than 1%. Truly occlusive coatings that prevent moisture transpiration can promote fungal infections. 281  Nail cream Nails can become brittle from various causes; a common response is to apply some preparation to counteract this brittleness, which is probably due to dehydration. Emollient creams for use as nail creams have been formulated from lanolin absorption bases or from beeswax-borax emulsions. These creams should be applied after soaking the hands in warm (soapy) water and thoroughly drying them, just before retiring for the night preferably two to three times per week 282  Nail strengthener Fingernails tend to split and break off easily and make manicuring difficult and often painful A liquid composition consisting of an aqueous solution of 3% steartrimonium chloride, 1.5% nonoxynol-10, and 0.5% TEA stearate was claimed in several patents for eliminating brittleness and dryness of nails, counteracting the effect of solvents present in nail polish removers, and improving the adhesion of nail lacquer applied subsequently. 283  Nail white Nail whites are preparations used to produce an even white edge to the nails. They are based on an inert white pigment such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, kaolin, talc, or colloidal silica, of which the first two are the best. The pigment forms 20-30% by weight of the preparation, which is generally presented as a stiff paste. 284  Nail dryer Nail dryers are aerosol formulations that make use of the rapid evaporation of a propellant to speed up the drying of freshly enameled nails by drawing off the solvent present in the nail varnish. Sometimes drying is combined with the deposition of a transparent film of oil over the freshly applied enamel, to reduce its tackiness and to prevent it from mearing if touched. 285  Plastic fingernails and elongators Plastic fingernails and elongators are used to improve the cosmetic appearance of damaged or short, stubby nails. The polymerization or copolymerization of monomers in the presence of a polymer, a catalyst, and a polymerization promoter produces them. A plasticizer, an opacifier, a pigment, and a filler may also be included. Low sale rate occurred due to high incidence of allergic reactions to methyl methacrylate monomer and serious deep fungal infections Another form of artificial nails is made of preformed acrylic plastic, which is cemented to the nail using an appropriate glue. 286  Pharmaceutical nail lacquer: Fungal nail infection is an infection of the nails by a fungus and is known as Onychomycosis. The body normally hosts a variety of bacteria and fungi. Some of these are useful to the body. Others may multiply quickly and form infections. Fungi can live on the dead tissues of the hair, nails, and outer skin layers. Ciclopirox topical solution, 8%, contains a synthetic antifungal agent, ciclopirox. It is intended for topical use on fingernails and toenails and immediately adjacent skin. 287 Recent advances (Continuation) Mood changing nail lacquer: This type of nail lacquer changes its shade based on the mood of the woman. When her mood is normal it remains in light shade. When she feels anxious the shade darkens. 288 11-Colorant Cosmetics 1st Semester 2022/2023  The purpose of using colour cosmetics is to improve appearance either by hiding skin imperfections or by intensifying and highlighting eyes, lips, and nails. Categories of makeup include foundation, blusher, mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow, lip color, and nail colour Cosmetic colorants are subject to specific government regulation throughout the world. Mostly regulations are patterned after (Food and Drug Administration), (European Commission), or Japan (Ministry of Health and Welfare). U.S. regulations for food, drug, and cosmetic colours are found in the Code of Federal Regulations (21CFR), Title 21, Parts 73 and 74 available from the U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. For the worldwide regulatory status of colorants, the CTFA International Colour Handbook is an excellent reference.  Foundation/skin colour The purpose of foundation is to convey a smooth finish to the skin, masking minor imperfections and evening out skin tones, to make the skin look and feel pleasant to the touch. Degree of opacity can vary from highly opaque and covering to sheer and transparent. The finish provided can be moist and dewy, natural, semimatte, or matte, depending on the pigment and emollient content of the formulation. Many foundations include skin treatment functions: either for moisturizing dry skin or for absorbing the excess sebum produced by oily skin. The goal is to maintain an even, flawless appearance throughout the day.  Foundation/skin colour Vehicles for foundations include suspensions, oil in water emulsions, water in oil emulsions, pressed and loose powders, anhydrous cakes, and anhydrous sticks. Preferred foundation forms vary throughout the world according to fashion and climate. Examples are the popularity of emulsion liquid foundations in the United States, cream foundations in Europe, and powder or powder-cream foundations in Japan.  Foundation/skin colour Coverage Coverage in color cosmetics is provided primarily by the white pigments such as titanium and zinc oxide, kaolin, certain talcs, and, in some cases, the colored pigments. Other materials that contribute to coverage, particularly in powder products, are bismuth oxychloride, metallic soaps, carbonates of alkaline earths, fine particle size pearlacious pigments, and boron nitride. The ability of a material to scatter light determines the amount of coverage. The greater the difference in refractive index between a pigment and the vehicle in which it is dispersed, the greater the degree of light scattering observed, thus the greater the coverage.  Foundation/skin color Common ingredients: Titanium Dioxide: the colorant titanium dioxide must be 99% pure, based on analysis of dried material. Zinc Oxide: has a lower refractive index than titanium dioxide, 2.1, and thus has lower covering power. Kaolin: considered a "filler" pigment, is a hydrous aluminum silicate provides coverage and gives a smooth feel to powders and dispersed systems. In aqueous emulsions, kaolin acts as a pigment dispersant and helps to stabilize the suspension by acting as a spacer between the pigment particles.  Foundation/skin colour Common ingredients: Fragrance The odour of a cosmetic strongly affects consumer acceptance. Because colour cosmetics are "leave- on" products, worn in continuous contact with the skin, excess fragrance levels are to be avoided due to the potential for skin irritation and sensitization. By utilizing ingredients with the lowest potential for the development of unpleasant odours, the need for fragrance is reduced or avoided. Many marketers of colour cosmetics prefer unfragranced products in order to be able to make the claim "fragrance-free." Compatibility of the fragrance with the other constituents of the product must be carefully evaluated at room temperature and elevated temperatures.  Foundation/skin colour Common ingredients: Fragrance Many ingredients of color cosmetics, including talcs, kaolins, and metallic stearates, are known to be capable of degrading fragrance. The fragrance in a color cosmetic will be affected not only by product composition but also by heat when required in processing. Purchase of fragrance from a wellknown fragrance manufacturer is recommended to help ensure suitability of the fragrance for the application and a composition having the least potential for adverse skin reactions.  Foundation/skin color FINISH The finish of a foundation is determined by the relationship between the pigments/filler content and the amount of the vehicle remaining after the product has set or dried on the skin. Consumer requirements vary, based on skin type, fashion, and climate. Oily skinned individuals prefer a matte or semimatte appearance, Dry skin individuals prefer moisturizing, emollient formulations. Powder foundations contain almost 100% dry ingredients and will give a matte appearance that can be softened by the use of translucent reflective materials such as mica and low levels of fine pearlaceous pigments. The finish of emulsified foundations can be varied from dry and matte to moist and dewy. A formula having 12-14% pigment and 5-10% nonvolatile oil will be relatively matte, probably suited to younger, more oily skin types. In contrast, a product having 14-16% pigment in a base containing 25-35% nonvolatile oil would be positioned for older, drier skin. Usually, anhydrous formulations are matte to semimatte to natural in finish and are not moist, because a dewy anhydrous formulation has an extremely greasy feel on application and poor wear characteristics.  Foundation/skin color Colored pigments Red, yellow, and black iron oxides are the principal coloring oxides used in foundation makeup. All skin tones can be matched using the iron oxides upon combining it with titanium dioxide, which functions as a white pigment and provides coverage The commercially available brown iron oxides are blends of red, yellow, and black iron oxides. Better shade control and reproducibility in foundation is achieved by restricting one's choice of pigment to a yellow, a medium shade red, and a black iron oxide and learning the effect of each on the shade.  Foundation/skin color Colored pigments It is advisable to keep color combinations as simple as possible so that matching with fresh batches of raw material is made easier. The color effect produced on the skin is dependent on the opacity of both white and colored pigments, degree of dispersion, thickness of the applied film, and skin color. A close relationship between product mass tone and skin tone through adequate pigment dispersion and good wetting should be obtained. When shade matching under production conditions, skin tone should take precedence, although the cause of any significant deviation in mass tone should be identified and corrected.  Foundation/skin color Surface-Treated Pigments Surface-modified pigments revolutionized the formulation of foundations, particularly pressed powder forms and anhydrous systems. Pigment particles that are uniformly coated with a hydrophobic substance compress better, have a markedly smoother skin feel, and wet more easily into oil. The wide variety of surface treatments available can be classified according to the method of preparation. 12-Oral care product 1st semester 2021/2022  BASIC REQUIREMENTS The minimum requirements for a commercial dentifrice (A paste or powder for cleaning the teeth) should be achieved. Modern dentifrices meet all of the listed requirements: 1. Clean the teeth adequately; removing food debris, pellicle, plaque, and stains. 2. They should leave the mouth with a fresh, clean sensation and freshen the breath. 3. The cost should be economic. 4. Safe, and convenient to use. 5. Easily manufactured and packaged economically.  BASIC REQUIREMENTS 6. Abrasive to enamel and dentin. 7. If the product is claimed to have medical effect then the clinical trials should meet all regulatory requirements of the countries in which the product is to be marketed. 8. Stable in storage throughout their anticipated shelf life. TOOTHPASTE INGREDIENT FUNCTIONS The function of a dentifrice is to remove adherent soil from a hard surface with lowest damage to that surface by using a mildly abrasive powder with an added surface active agent. The surface-active agent helps the penetration and removal of the adherent film and suspends removed soiling matter. The foam produced has a psychological effect by making tooth cleaning acceptable. The cleaning function is better to be in a short time, under a minute, and at body temperature TOOTHPASTE INGREDIENT FUNCTIONS Ingredients in tooth paste: Humectant: For tooth paste package in tube, liquid is added and a humectant prevent the toothpaste from drying out at the tube nozzle. Thickening or gelling agent(s) For a stable high-solids suspension, it also becomes necessary to increase the viscosity of the liquid phase by the addition of a thickening or gelling agent(s). Flavour and colour: For end user acceptance Preservatives: For microbiological stability Anti-caries effect it is probably necessary to add fluoride. All of these components must be nontoxic and nonirritant under the conditions of use and should not interfere with the activity of a dentifrice.  Toothpaste ingredient functions The finished product should maintain its consistency over a temperature range from 0 °C to 37 °C, i.e. viscosity should be temperature independent. It should be stable without noticeable physical or chemical changes over the same temperature range. Most large manufacturers have international sales and may have to take into account local conditions in many countries.  Denture cleansers Denture cleansers are marketed either in paste form or in tablet form. The tablet and earlier powder forms are yielding some market share to the newer paste products. The functions of a denture cleanser are removal of debris, plaque, calculus, and surface stains from the denture.  Denture Tablets Tablet products may differ widely in composition, they contain an oxidizing agent, a flavor, an electrolyte, and an alkali. Sodium perborate or sodium percarbonate, are the oxidizing agents normally used, although hypochlorites, trichloroisocyanuric acid and its salts, and persulfates have also been used. Sodium percarbonate is more soluble in water than sodium perborate but is not quite as stable, although in the solid form its stability is adequate. Tablet products are dissolved in water to form a solution in which the denture is soaked. After a suitable period of soaking, the deposits should be easily brushed away. In addition, the denture may be "sterilized," and surface stains are removed. Whatever the type of oxidizing agent used, care must be taken to ensure that the product does not alter the color of the denture.  Denture Tablets Modern plastic dentures normally retain their color well. The amount of sodium perborate or percarbonate used is usually in the range of 20-50%; corresponding amounts of other oxidizing agents may be employed, but chlorine-generating compounds should be used at such a level that leaves the denture without an unpleasant chlorine aftertaste after rinsing. Sodium chloride is the electrolyte used, and the alkali is most commonly anhydrous trisodium phosphate.  Denture Tablets A typical denture cleanser tablet formulation is provided below: Prototype Denture Cleanser Ingredient % Sodium percarbonate 88.0 Sodium chloride 10.0 Sodium silicate and other binders 2.0 Flavor, color q.s.  Mouthwashes Mouthwash may be categorized by claims or marketing: (1) Antibacterial, which contain a germicidal agent to decrease the bacterial population of the mouth (2) Fluoride, which help strengthen the enamel of teeth (3) Cosmetic, which freshen the breath (4) Prebrushing rinses, which loosen plaque to render it easier to remove with a toothbrush and toothpaste  Mouthwash ingredients Solvents Water is the first ingredient in all ready-to-use and most concentrate mouthwashes. High-quality purified, distilled, or deionized water is normally used to avoid interactions with other ingredients and to provide a neutral starting base for the mouthwash. Flavor Flavor is the reason for choice of a mouthwash by most consumers. Predominant flavor types for cosmetic type mouthwashes are mints such as spearmint, peppermint, and to a lesser extent wintergreen.  Mouthwash ingredients The "Phenolics" The phenolics include thymol, eucalyptol, methyl salicylate, and menthol. Many people consider these ingredients to add a "medicinal" or "antiseptic“ character to the flavor of a mouthwash. These materials have been used in products at set levels with an American Dental Association accepted claim of "Kills germs that cause bad breath, plaque, & the gum infection gingivitis.“  Mouthwash ingredients Humectants Humectants are used in mouthwashes to aid in the solubilization of flavors, to modify the mouth feel, to add sweetness, and to increase the osmotic pressure of the mouthwash to decrease the risk of microbial growth. glycerin, sorbitol, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, propylene glycol, and xylitol. Higher levels of humectant are usually used in nonalcoholic mouthwashes.  Mouthwash ingredients Antimicrobials Antimicrobials function is to decrease bad breath, plaque, and gingivitis. The "phenolics" were discussed earlier as flavors. Cationic quaternary antibacterials currently in usage are limited essentially to cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC) and domiphen bromide. Chlorhexidine is noted for its strong broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and strongly substantive nature. It is used in a prescription drug mouthwash in the United States for its antiplaque and antigingivitis effects. Sanguinaria canadensis extract or sanguinaria is used in mouthwashes for its antibacterial and therefore antiplaque and antigingivitis effects. These mouthwash formulations may also contain PVA/MA copolymer or a pyrophosphate to boost activity.  Mouthwash testing Consumer Testing If a claim (tastes better is made then employing hundreds of target consumers, Safety Testing As with any product subject to accidental ingestion, the acute toxicity or the LD 50 product must be tested prior to human exposure. Bacteriological Testing The antibacterial products must also be tested to support the exact antibacterial claim made (e.g., kills germs for ÷ hours).  Mouthwash testing Mouth Odor Reduction Testing Many instrumental test procedures based on gas liquid chromatography, odor detectors based on them, and other detection methods are available. Clinical Tests The type of clinical tests performed is determined according to the claims made for the various products. They range from traditional anticaries trials to the loosening of plaque by a prebrushing rinse. The test's design should be such that it will clearly support the intended claim  Mouth Fresheners Aerosol and pump spray mouth fresheners are a natural extension of mouthwash They are recommended for freshening the breath after eating, drinking, or smoking, and may contain only flavoring agents, although antibacterials could be added. The basic formulation can be an exaggerated concentrate of a mouthwash. Advantageous is the package is small enough to be carried in a handbag or pocket, so that its use is not confined to the home. Some manufacturers market breath freshener liquid drops. One drop placed on the tongue is claimed to produce instant freshness and control breath odor. These formulations are essentially the same as the aerosol products but are only dispensed differently 13-Baby Care Products Cosmetic Preparations 1st semester 2022/2023 319 Introduction Regarding baby skin, frequent contact with XENOBIOTICS could damage or disrupt the barrier function of the stratum corneum and change the skin pH. This may lead to an increased dermal absorption, an increased TransEpidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and the onset of infections. Therefore, exposure-based risk assessment for baby products is key to bringing safe baby cosmetics to the market. 320 Xenobiotics: a chemical substance found within an organism that is not naturally produced by or expected to be present within. It can also cover substances that are present in much higher concentrations than are usual. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL or TWL): is the loss of water that passes from inside a body (animal or plant) through the epidermis (that is, either the epidermal layer of animal skin or the epidermal layer of plants) to the surrounding atmosphere via diffusion and evaporation processes. 321 During the development of baby products a number of criteria are taken into consideration: -High quality of raw materials in terms of purity, stability, and microbiology via appropriate certificates of analysis. -Avoid the use of well-known irritative ingredients and/or reducing concentration or frequency of application -Exposure-based risk assessment is required to rule out induction of sensitization 322 - The guarantee of safety data of baby cosmetics are maintained through Technical Information File (TIF) and the risk assessment approved by a safety assessor.  Usually, special attention is given to the concentration of: i. reactive colorants ii. promotional additives, “natural” and “exotic” ingredients, in particular not well-identified mixtures, plant extracts, and ingredients of animal origin or a questionable, impure source iii. potential allergens, penetration enhancers, organic solvents (ethanol, isopropanol, highly reactive substances, highly detersive or foaming agents, and antiseptics in particular in daily use products) iv. concentrations of preservatives. 323  It is considered to be good practice: i. to add antioxidants to protect unsaturated lipids from oxidative reactions ii. to adjust the pH of the final product resulting in a skin friendly pH value between 4.5 and 6 after product application iii. to add chelating or sequestering agents, when appropriate, to prevent heavy metal precipitation and protect the preservative system iv. to use skin barrier protective ingredients. 324  Baby cosmetics can be subdivided in two groups:  Cleansing Cosmetics  Protecting cosmetics. 325  Cleansing Cosmetics Bath Products  Bathing a baby for five to seven minutes in lukewarm water usually is sufficient  Daily bathing is general practice, but not optimal because of the risk of drying out and irritating baby’s skin, in particular when aggressive anionics with high degreasing properties are involved.  Better is to use so-called secondary, including nonionics and amphoterics, or mild anionics such as sulfosuccinates, isothionates, and protein fatty acids condensates. 326  The use of bath oil is preferred over bath foam and bath cream additives particularly when dry, sensitive skin or atopic eczema is present.  For optimal effect, the baby is bathed for 5 minutes in plain water, then the bath oil is added and bathing continues for another 5 to 10 minutes.  Adding starch to the bath water or using starch-containing bath additives may help to restore an impaired skin barrier. In general, the use of bath foam is not suitable for babies because of its high content of primary surfactant producing the excessive foam. 327  Shampoo  Baby shampoo usually has a pH of 6 to 7 and ideally should contain only mild surfactant, e.g., mixtures of nonionics and amphoteric substances.  The shampoo should not be irritating to the eyes. To avoid eye contact the viscosity of the shampoo could be increased.  Foam has no cleansing function, foaming agents are often quite irritating and not suitable to be used alone in baby shampoos, e.g., alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates.  It is not necessary to wash baby’s hairs every day since they are neither dirty nor greasy.  As the hydrolipidic layer is not yet formed on baby’s skin, and sebum production is low, the amount of lipids distributed on the hairs is limited and is easily washed away. 328  Soap Bars and Syndets  Soaps (salts of fatty acids) liberate, in contact with water, alkali and increase the pH up to values of 10. Also precipitation occurs with calcium and magnesium ions from hard water.  syndets (synthetic detergents) do not precipitate with hard water and have an adjustable pH to neutral or slightly acidic.  As syndets cover the whole range of synthetic surfactant— with exception of the legally protected soap formulations— they can be aggressive (e.g., alkyl sulfates) or mild (isothionates), depending on the choices and mixtures made. 329 Like soaps, they can dry out the skin when not containing lubricant additives When soap and washcloth are used in the diaper area, the buffering capacity of the skin is further damaged Extensive washing with aggressive surfactant disturbs the flora of the newborn skin and can lead to infections. In addition, perfumed cleansing products may cause contact allergic reactions due to enhanced skin penetration of the perfume by the presence of anionic soap ingredients 330  Baby Wipes Disposable baby wipes have been developed as an alternative to traditional cleansing methods. They consist of a nonwoven carrier material soaked with an emulsion-type, watery, or oily lotion. Mineral oil wipes do not efficiently clean hydrophilic components and potentially slip over fecal contaminations. Most emulsion-type lotions are oil-in-water (o/w) and enriched with emollients and surfactants. 331 The preservative system is very important to ensure that the product will not be contaminated during its normal lifetime. Products for sensitive skin have also been developed, which offer choice regarding the nonuse of fragrances or additives with which problems have previously occurred.  Clinical studies confirmed that high-quality baby wipes are suitable for daily cleansing of the diaper area, of healthy babies as well as of babies with atopic dermatitis. 332 Cleansing Milk For cleansing of the baby and in particular the diaper zone, liquid cleansers based on oil-in water (o/w) emulsions are often used, especially when water and washcloth are not well tolerated by the baby skin. Also soft tissues or towelettes impregnated with these emulsions are present on the market. 333 They are easy to use and contain anionic and/or nonionic surfactant. When a baby is prone to contact dermatitis, it is advised to screen the ingredients list because those tissues often contain high concentrations of preservatives, necessary to prevent microbiological contamination of the tissues. Mineral-oil impregnated tissues can increase the presence of Candida in the diaper area and change the composition of the skin surface lipids. 334  Protecting Cosmetics Face/Body Creams and Body Lotions  Protective creams for the napkin zone are preventive or protect the skin against aggressions from urine, feces, and their interactions.  Oil-in-water (o/w) creams do exist  When there is sign of skin damage, water-in-oil (w/o) creams or water-free ointments with talc, kaolin, and zinc oxide are advised.  Allantoin, bisabolol, aloe vera extract, and silicones are often added to improve water resistance.  In winter, barrier creams protect baby’s face against freezing cold and wind. The lipid phase often contains petrolatum. These products are particularly effective around the nose and mouth. They usually also contain moisturizers, soothing active ingredients, and nonionic emulsifiers. 335 Baby Powder  Talc powders are not often applied anymore in the napkin area.  Baby Powder absorb moisture, decrease maceration, and prevent irritation of the fragile baby skin.  Powders, however, pose a potential inhalation risk and can form on the skin little granules that induce friction.  Furthermore, talc is susceptible to contamination with microorganisms and needs sterilization. 336 Sunscreens  Steady increase of all types of skin cancer has been observed.  Therefore, it is essential to inform parents and children about good sun protection.  Sun exposure in childhood is seen as a risk factor for skin cancer later in life, as it is known that there is a relationship between skin burning in the prepubertal period and the occurrence of malignant melanoma 10 to 20 years later.  Therefore, babies and infants should, in first instance, be kept out of the sun and protected by appropriate clothing and hats. 337  Almost 90% of the clothes provide an equivalent protection to sunscreens of SPF 30 or higher, although the protection offered is dependent on weave, color, weight, stretch, and wetness.  Even special protective clothes for children exist today. They have undergone special treatment to filter out UV light.  Sunscreens often are ineffective in preventing sunburns completely, because parents tend to forget to reapply or limit the use to just the upper part of the body. 338 The importance of using multiple sun protection methods to maximize effective sun protection clearly has to be promoted. Extreme care should be taken especially during the first weeks and months of life, since pigmentation and thermo- regulation are not yet fully developed. When sunscreens are used, preferably products containing UVA and UVB screens and scattering powders or a sunscreen mix with a high sun protection factor (SPF) should be applied and preferably several times a day. 339 APPROPRIATE CARE OF FREQUENT SKIN PROBLEMS Diaper Diaper Rash Diaper rash is a common condition that refers to irritation on the groin, thighs, buttocks, and perianal area of the newborn. It is caused by the combination of incontinence and diaper use. Excessive wetness makes the skin more fragile, and diapers may induce an occlusive effect that makes baby skin more vulnerable. Consequently, hydrated skin is more prone to mechanical damage and chafing of the skin since an increased coefficient of friction is observed, and it may allow irritants to penetrate the stratum corneum more easily. 340  As explained before, not only occlusion but also a higher pH can be an underlying factor, which induces several enzymes-mediated irritations.  Alkalization of the skin increases skin penetration of microorganism and activates fecal enzymes.  The most appropriate strategy for diaper rash is prophylaxis, and this includes keeping the skin dry.  The selection of suitable diapers and frequent diaper changes are important because friction between skin and diaper is often an additional factor. 341  The application of emollients plays an important role, and the application of a thick layer creates an effective protective barrier.  ZnO is an often used component in diaper rash protection products. It adheres well to the injured skin, has astringent and some mild anti-inflammatory properties, and prevents skin injury or further damage.  If the diaper rash shows evidence of Candida infection—often seen as satellite lesions extending the rash—antifungal therapy can be indicated. 342 14-Hair Cosmetics Preparations 1st semester 2022/2023 343 Hair care preparations classification Hair cleansers Hair dressings Hair wavers, curlers and straighteners Hair tonics Hair removers Hair dyes and bleaches 344 Hair cleansing preparations Shampoos They are suitable detergents for the washing of hair, packaged in a form convenient for use. Its primary function remains that of cleansing the hair of accumulated sebum, scalp debris and residues of hair grooming preparations. 345  Functions of Shampoo Effectively and completely remove dirt (or) soil. Effectively wash the Hair. Produce a good amount of Foam to satisfy the User. Be readily removed by rinsing with water. Impart a pleasant fragrance to the Hair. Not have any side effects (or) causes irritation to the skin and eye. 346  Types of shampoos 1. Clear liquid shampoos (Two types: Cleansing shampoos and Cosmetic shampoos) 2. Liquid cream or lotion shampoo 3. Solid cream shampoo & Gel shampoo(Made from sodium lauryl sulphate paste with suitable gelling agent such as sodium stearate) 4. Oil shampoo (oil shampoo use sulphonated oil as detergents. They have good cleansing ability to remove dirt and oil from the hair but they do not form foam). 5. Powder shampoo : Dry shampoo (These are powder composition which allows the hair to be cleaned simply by sprinkling absorbent powder onto the greasy hair, leaving it for 10 minutes and then brushing it off. The main attraction is that they do not involve the use of water. This process will not remove the set, and there is no loss of curl). 347 Commonly used ingredients in shampoo a) Water: This is the main ingredient in all shampoo recipes, comprising about 60-80% of the solution, inexpensive , it aids in diluting the cleaning agents, thereby reducing irritation, and makes the shampoo formula easier to spread on the hair and scalp. b)Surfactants: Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension of a liquid, the interfacial tension between two liquids. Example: Surfactants may act as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, and dispersants. c)Foam Boosters and Stabilizers: Used to increase Foam forming tendency. Example: Coco Diethanolamide-used as foam booster and viscosity builder. 348 d)Opacifiers: A chemical agent added to a material, such as rocket propellant, to make it opaque(not transparent or not allowing light to pass through). Example: Spermaceti. e)Clarifying Agents: To make clear by removing impurities or solid matter, as by heating gently or filtering. Example: Ethanol, propanol. f)Anti-dandruff Agents: Removal of dandruff from scalp of hair. Example: Selenium, salicylic acid, ketoconazole , zinc pyrithione. 349 g)Conditioning Agents: To offset the effects of surfactants, most shampoo recipes include conditioners to help smooth, soften and reduce brittleness. Example: Lanolin, Glycerol, Propylene glycol. h)Thickening Agents: or Viscosity Builders. What this basically means is – how to make shampoo thick and creamy,include salts and gums.Gums improve viscosity because of their gel-like properties. Example: Tragacanth gum,carboxy methyl cellulose. 350 i)Sequestering Agents: Used to prevent precipitation of insoluble calcium, magnesium salts in hard water. Example: EDTA j)Perfumes: Shampoos include perfumes and pigments most are highly concentrated and used sparingly. Example : fruit fragrance k)Colors: Used to impart color, different colors are used. Example: Strawberry. 351 L)Preservatives: Shampoo formula containing water has the potential to be contaminated by pathogens. For this reason it is essential to include preservatives among shampoo ingredients, to prevent the growth of molds. Preservatives usually comprise only 0.1 – 0.5% of the formulation. Example: methyl paraben. 352 Sulfate Free shampoo sodium lauryl sulfate is a surfactant that commonly used in hair products as a cleansing agent. but it was found that sulfate can damaged the hair and make it dry. So, Sulfate free shampoo become a trend in the hair care markets. 353 Sulfate Free shampoo Sulfate free shampoo benefits: prevent Dryness/Itchiness On Scalp suits Colored Hair Keep Natural Moisture Of Hair perfect For Curly Hair 354 New trend in shampoo Sulphate free Paraben free Contain natural ingredients such as: olive oil, shea butter, coco nut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, garlic oil. These shampoo keep the hair moisturized, shiny and healthy Decrease hair loss and make it thicker and longer. 355 baby shampoo Less irritating and usually less prone to produce a stinging or burning sensation if it were to get into the eyes. example, Johnson & Johnson Baby Shampoo advertises under the premise NO MORE TEARS This is accomplished by Dilution, Adjusting pH, Use of surfactants. 356 Evaluation of shampoo 1) Determination of pH 2) Determine % of solids 3) Dirt dispersion 4) determination of foam formation 5) Foam quality and determination 357  Quality Control Tests a)Foam Stability: Cylinder shake method was used for determining foaming ability. 50ml of the 1% shampoo solution was put into a 250ml graduated cylinder and cover the cylinder with hand and shaken for 10 times. The total volumes of the foam contents after 1 minute shaking were recorded. The foam volume was calculated. Foam should retain for atleast 5mins. Foam Stability = V2-V1 358 b)Dirt Dispersion: Put two drops of shampoo in a large test tube 10mL dirt water and one drop of Indian Ink. Close the Test tube and shake for 5min. Estimate the amount of Ink in the foam. The dirt should stay in water portion. 359 d)Viscosity: Is determined using Brookefield Viscometer. 100ml of shampoo is taken in a beaker and spindle is dipped in it for about 5min and then reading is taken. 360 e)pH: Mix 1gram of shampoo with 9ml of water and determine the pH using pH meter at 27 degrees Celsius. 361 Permanent waving solutions formula Ammonium carbonates 20.gm Sodium carbonate 45 gm Potassium sulphite 2.0gm Water 74.0gm Perfume q.s Prepared by simple gradual mixing and then making solution. 362 Products for setting or shaping the hair style (used on wet hair) liquids, lotions, splash-ons, spray gels (without gelling agents) glazes, sculpting lotions, spray gels (with gelling agent) 363 Products for setting or shaping the hair style (used on wet hair) Liquids, lotions, splashons, spray gels (without gelling agents) low-viscosity liquids that supply no physical structure, they do not hold the hair in place until it dries. Appropriate for men's and women's hair styling, utilizing techniques such as wet setting wet look (combed through and allowed to dry without disturbing hair orientation, resulting in a shiny wet look when dry) Blow drying 364 365  glazes, sculpting lotions, spray gels (with gelling agent) low- to moderate-viscosity styling products differ from the simple polymeric solutions because they have rheological attributes facilitating their use in styling hair A viscosity-increasing additive is added to the product to create body, to prevent dripping. 366 gels, cream gels (emulsion forms) Medium, to high-viscosity products Employ high levels of gelling agents or a hybrid of several viscosity- builders to deliver a desirable holding and fixative effect on hair. Typically packaged in squeeze tubes, or open mouth jars, or containers with a pump dispenser 367 Creams Creams can simply be oil in water emulsions with a 10-25% oil phase. The cream gel is a hybrid of the clear gel and an oil treatment or the emulsion It can be a polymer-stabilized cream or simply a dispersion of oils, esters, or fatty products in a gelling matrix 368 Oil-in-water cream Formula: mineral oil - 45g Stearic acid - 3.5 g Triethanolamine - 1.5 Water, preservative - q.s Procedure: Heat mineral oil, stearic acid at about 70° C and add triethanolamine. Add water while stirring. Cool and add perfume. 369 Water-in-oil type creams formula: Bees wax - 3.5 g Mineral oil - 37.5g Paraffin wax - 1g Lime water - 58g Perfume, preservative – q.s Procedure: Melt bees wax, mineral oil and paraffin wax together at about 70° C. Warm the lime water and add slowly to the oil phase with continuous stirring. Add perfume when temperature is about 35° C 370  Evaluation of hair cream 1)Stability of the ingredients 2)Physical stability 3) Rheology : This can be studied by using suitable equipment (viscometer) to measure the viscosity and effect of storage on it. 4)pH: desirable pH between 5 and 9 5)Water content: hair cream should have maximum of 85% of water content. 6)Mic