Cosmetic Ingredients and Formulation Notes PDF

Cosmetic Ingredients and Formulation Consumer Insights and Sensory Science Consumer Insight: ○ Understand emotional and symbolic connections between consumers and products. ○ Example campaigns: Dove’s Real Beauty: Addressing self-perceptio...

Cosmetic Ingredients and Formulation Consumer Insights and Sensory Science Consumer Insight: ○ Understand emotional and symbolic connections between consumers and products. ○ Example campaigns: Dove’s Real Beauty: Addressing self-perception. Nespresso’s Sustainability Efforts: Targeting eco-conscious consumers. Sensory Additivity: ○ Combining sensory stimuli (e.g., touch, sight, smell) enhances product perception. ○ Example: Blue lights in airports reduce fatigue; crunchy sounds in potato chips signify freshness. Color Psychology: ○ Colors evoke specific emotions and influence purchasing decisions. ○ Example: Blue: Calmness, clarity. Red: Passion, excitement. Green: Renewal, tranquility. Cosmetic Categories and Forms Categories: ○ Haircare: Shampoos, conditioners. ○ Skincare: Creams, toners, cleansers. ○ Makeup: Foundations, lipsticks, eye makeup. ○ Body care: Lotions, perfumes, bath products. Forms: ○ Liquids, gels, creams, powders, waxes, aerosols. Purpose: ○ Cleanse, beautify, protect, and enhance body appearance. Key Cosmetic Ingredients 1. Base Ingredients: ○ Water: Main solvent in most formulations. ○ Oils: Provide moisture, smoothness, and texture. ○ Surfactants: Cleanse and stabilize emulsions. 2. Active Ingredients: ○ Vitamins, ceramides, amino acids, plant extracts. ○ Enhance skin hydration, anti-aging, or repair properties. 3. Functional Additives:  ○ Preservatives: Ensure product safety (e.g., parabens). ○ Thickeners: Improve texture and stability (e.g., polymers). ○ Colorants and Fragrances: Enhance sensory appeal. Formulation Guidelines Shampoos: ○ Anionic surfactants for cleaning. ○ Amphoteric surfactants for gentleness. ○ Silicones for smoothness. Conditioners: ○ Cationic surfactants for softness. ○ Silicone for a silky finish. Creams: ○ Fatty acids for thickening. ○ Polyhydric alcohols for moisturizing. Hair Waxes/Gels: ○ Waxes and polymers for hold and styling. Stability and Safety Considerations Products should: ○ Be non-irritating and safe for prolonged use. ○ Remain stable under varying conditions (temperature, time). ○ Resist microbial contamination (antioxidants, chelating agents). Example: Japanese Standards for Cosmetics regulate ingredient usage and quality control. Developing the Consumer Experience Multisensory Design: ○ Combine touch, sight, smell, and even sound to enhance product appeal. ○ Example: Hydrating lotions with visual water sprays. Packaging: ○ Chromatic color schemes influence consumer trust and preference (e.g., “truth” vs. “lie” designs). Skin Cleansing Products Introduction Skin Overview: ○ Consists of three layers: epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis (fat cells). ○ Includes accessory structures like sebaceous glands, sweat glands, nails, and hair. Categories of Skin Care Products: ○ Drugs: Alter body structure/function to prevent disease. ○ Cosmetics: Beautify and enhance skin appearance. ○ Cosmeceuticals: Improve and support skin function. Importance of Skin Cleansing: ○ Removes dirt, oil, dead cells, and prepares skin for further care. ○ Maintains healthy barrier function and aesthetic appearance. Types of Skin Cleansing Products Facial Cleansers: Remove dirt/makeup, exfoliate, and eliminate microorganisms. Bath/Shower Products: Enhance bathing experience and clean body skin. Hand Cleansers: Target hand hygiene, including antibacterial sanitizers. Classification: ○ By Purpose: Cleansing (dirt removal), moisturizing (hydration), or antimicrobial. ○ By Form: Solids (soap bars, bath salts), liquids (gels, toners), and semisolids (creams, scrubs). Impact of Skin Cleansers on Skin Contain surfactants that emulsify and remove oils but can disrupt the skin barrier, leading to: ○ Irritation: Redness, dryness, inflammation. ○ Increased TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss): Causes dehydration. Surfactants' effects depend on type: ○ Anionic: High irritation potential. ○ Amphoteric and nonionic: Gentler alternatives. Factors like pH and ingredient harshness influence irritation. Essential Qualities for Skin Cleansers Consumer Preferences: ○ Neutral odor, pleasant texture, non-greasy, moisturizing, and non-comedogenic. Technical Qualities: ○ Dermatological safety, stability, appropriate pH, and foaming properties. Key Ingredients  Surfactants: ○ Anionic: E.g., SLS for lathering and cleansing. ○ Amphoteric: Reduce irritation and boost conditioning. ○ Nonionic: Mild and used as emulsifiers or solubilizers. Thickeners: Provide stability and spreadability (e.g., cellulose derivatives, gums). Conditioners: Hydrate and soothe (e.g., glycerin, oils, allantoin). Preservatives: Prevent contamination (e.g., parabens). Abrasives: Aid exfoliation (e.g., fruit seeds, synthetic beads). Fragrances and Colorants: Enhance product appeal. Cleansing Mechanisms Chemical Cleaning: Emulsifies oils with surfactants or dissolves dirt using solvents. Physical Cleaning: Uses abrasion (e.g., scrubs, cloths) to remove impurities. Quality and Safety Concerns Common Issues: ○ Over-drying, irritation, ingredient sensitivity (e.g., triclosan, SLS). Environmental Concerns: ○ Use of microbeads as exfoliants contributes to ocean pollution. Safety Evaluations: ○ Parabens and SLS undergo regular assessments for safe usage levels. Packaging and Product Evaluation Packaging Options: ○ Plastic/glass bottles, foam pumps, wipe containers. Evaluation Parameters: ○ Spreadability, foam stability, pH, viscosity, and microbial safety. Quality Issues: ○ Sticky bath salts, discolored soaps, microbial contamination. Skin Moisturizing Products Introduction Skin moisturizers dominate the skincare market. Functions: ○ Improve skin quality and restore moisture. ○ Keep skin smooth, pliable, and alleviate dryness symptoms. Some ingredients (e.g., mineral oil, petrolatum, dimethicone) fall under OTC drug classification in the US based on concentration. How Skin Moisturizers Affect the Skin Maintains skin integrity and barrier function. Benefits: ○ Hydration and NMF replacement. ○ Replenishes intercellular lipids. ○ Forms a protective skin layer. ○ AHAs combat aging; anticellulite agents improve cellulite. Concerns: ○ Acne-prone users should avoid comedogenic ingredients. Required Qualities of Skin Moisturizers From consumers: ○ Neutral odour and non-oily feel. ○ Effective hydration, reduced dryness, environmental protection. ○ Dermatological safety and long-term stability. Technical qualities: ○ Smooth texture, appropriate rheology, no microbial contamination. Typical Ingredients in Skin Moisturizers Key Components: Humectants: Attract water into the skin (e.g., glycerine, AHAs, hyaluronic acid). ○ Fills corneocyte gaps, reduces dryness, and mimics NMF. Emollients: Soften and smooth skin by filling spaces between corneocytes. ○ Includes hydrocarbons, fatty acids, vegetable oils, waxes, and lanolin derivatives. Occlusives: Form a hydrophobic barrier to reduce TEWL. ○ E.g., petrolatum, dimethicone, fatty alcohols, and waxes. Skin Rejuvenators: Enhance skin barrier (e.g., keratin, elastin, collagen). ○ Provide temporary smoothing and hydration. Additional Ingredients: Vitamins (e.g., A, E), peptides, natural extracts, antioxidants, and sunscreens. Emulsifiers, thickeners, and aesthetic agents for stability and texture. Types of Emulsions O/W (Oil-in-Water): ○ Hydrates SC, suitable for oily and sensitive skin, non-comedogenic. W/O (Water-in-Oil): ○ Ideal for dry skin, forms a protective oil layer, but may feel greasy. Multiple Emulsion (W/O/W): ○ Allows for sustained ingredient release and compatibility. Considerations for Selecting Moisturizers Normal Skin: Light, non-greasy formulations. Oily Skin: Water-based, non-comedogenic lotions or gels. Dry Skin: Combine humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Sensitive Skin: Avoid fragrances and irritants. Quality Issues Common problems: ○ Emulsion separation, microbial contamination, clumping, rancidification. Evaluation Parameters Quality Tests: ○ Spreadability, viscosity, pH, texture, preservative efficacy. Efficacy Tests: ○ Hydration (conductance or capacitance method), TEWL measurement, surface roughness, elasticity. Sensory Testing: ○ Spreadability, greasiness, tackiness, after-feel. Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns Fragrances: Major sensitizers. Lanolin: Potential allergen. Urea and propylene glycol: May irritate skin. Herbal extracts: Risk of sensitization and irritation. Packaging  Common materials: ○ Plastic bottles: For body products. ○ Soft tubes: For hand lotions/creams. ○ Glass/plastic jars: For facial moisturizers. Design considerations include user safety and convenience. Special Skin Concerns: Focus on Aging & Acne Introduction Skin Aging: ○ Complex biological process influenced by: Endogenous factors (internal). Exogenous factors (external). ○ Leads to structural and physiological changes in skin layers. Acne Vulgaris: ○ Common in teenagers and young adults. ○ Causes visible symptoms and psychosocial impacts on quality of life (QoL). Aging Skin Characteristics of younger vs. older skin: ○ Smoother skin: Hyaluronan and water content decrease with age. ○ Epidermis, fibroblasts, elastin, collagen, and vascular structures degrade. Intrinsic Aging Definition: Genetically determined, natural aging process. Characteristics: ○ Smooth, thin, pale, finely wrinkled skin. ○ Thinning dermis, elastin degeneration, reduced hydration. Effects: ○ ↓ Collagen: Weaker dermis, slower wound healing. ○ ↓ Elastin: Reduced skin elasticity. ○ Flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction: Impaired nutrient transfer. Extrinsic Aging Definition: Accelerated aging due to environmental factors. ○ Causes: UV radiation, smoking, pollutants. ○ Photoaging: Over 90% of cosmetic skin problems due to sun damage. Characteristics: ○ Coarse skin, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, fragility. ○ Loss of Langerhans cells → Compromised immune response. UV Light and Effects UVC: Blocked by ozone, minimal skin impact. UVB: Affects epidermis → redness, dryness, cancer risk. UVA: Deeper penetration → significant contributor to photoaging. Anti-Aging Products Non-Invasive Treatments: ○ Lifestyle changes, sunscreen, topical products, microdermabrasion. Invasive Treatments: ○ Chemical peels, botulinum toxin, dermal fillers, surgeries. Common Ingredients: ○ Antioxidants: Neutralize free radicals, stimulate collagen. ○ Retinoids: Improve texture, reduce pigmentation. ○ Hydroxy Acids: Exfoliation and skin resurfacing. Aging-Related Skin Changes Melanocytes: Decrease → Pale skin, susceptibility to sun damage. Sebaceous Glands: Pores may widen despite stable gland size. Acne Vulgaris Development and Factors Microcomedo Formation: Early acne stage in hair follicles. Factors: ○ Hormones, diet, hygiene, stress, genetics, P. acnes. Types of Lesions Non-inflammatory: Open/closed comedones (blackheads/whiteheads). Inflammatory: Papules, pustules, nodules, cysts. Treatment Options Topical: ○ Benzoyl Peroxide, Salicylic Acid, Retinoids. Systemic: ○ Antibiotics, hormonal therapy, isotretinoin. Additional Treatments: ○ Chemical peels, optical therapies, herbal remedies. Formulation Considerations Anti-Aging: Stability, low pH (efficacy vs. irritation). Acne: Penetration into follicles, vehicle design for efficacy. Special Skin Concern: Sun Care Products Introduction Impact of UV exposure on skin: ○ Short-term: Reddening, irritation, tanning. ○ Long-term: Wrinkling, skin cancer, photoaging. UV Filters: ○ Incorporated into sunscreens and daily-use cosmetics. Sun Protection Basics Sun emits electromagnetic radiation; UV accounts for 5% of solar energy. UV types: ○ UVC (100–280 nm): Blocked by the ozone layer. ○ UVB (280–320 nm): Penetrates superficial skin layers, causes sunburn, contributes to skin cancer. ○ UVA (320–400 nm): Penetrates deeper layers, causes tanning and photoaging. SPF (Sun Protection Factor) Indicates protection duration against UVB radiation compared to unprotected skin. Factors influencing UV exposure: ○ Geography, altitude, season, time of day, weather, and reflective surfaces. SPF values: ○ SPF 15: Blocks 93% of UVB. ○ SPF 30: Blocks 97% of UVB. ○ SPF 50: Blocks 98% of UVB. Broad-Spectrum & Water Resistance Broad-Spectrum: Protects against UVA and UVB. Labels indicate protection against aging, cancer, or sunburn based on FDA standards. Water Resistance: ○ Products labeled based on SPF retention after water immersion. ○ Terms like "waterproof" or "sunproof" are disallowed. Effects of UV on Health Positive: Vitamin D synthesis, treatment for certain skin conditions, alleviating seasonal depression. Negative: ○ Skin damage: Photoaging, increased cancer risk, tanning as DNA damage. ○ Eye diseases and oxidative stress. Types of Sun Care Products Primary Sunscreens: Focused on photoprotection. Secondary Sunscreens: Include daily moisturizers and makeup with added SPF. After-Sun Products: Help soothe and repair post-exposure. Formulation & Key Ingredients UV Filters: ○ Physical (e.g., TiO₂, ZnO): Reflect/scatter radiation. ○ Chemical (e.g., avobenzone): Absorb UV rays, convert energy into heat. Additional Ingredients: ○ Waterproofing agents, emollients, antioxidants, and thickeners. Product Forms: ○ Emulsions (O/W, W/O), sprays, sticks, gels, wipes. Optimizing Efficacy Combine UVB and UVA filters for broad-spectrum protection. Homogeneous distribution of active ingredients ensures better performance. Use of photostabilizers and synergistic formulations. Colour Cosmetics: Lip Makeup Products Introduction Colour cosmetics are integral to self-adornment and grooming, enhancing personal well-being. Lip products, primarily used by women, include options for men focused on hydration and sun protection. Anatomy and Physiology of Lips The vermilion border marks the transition between facial skin and oral mucosa. ○ Lightly keratinized epithelium, rich in sensory receptors but lacks hair and sweat glands. ○ Thin tissue allows visibility of capillaries, giving lips their red hue. Lips have high tactile sensitivity but are prone to chemical, physical, and microbial damage due to low keratin and melanin levels. Types of Lip Makeup Products Lipsticks: Add colour and gloss; contain waxes, oils, pigments, and sometimes UV protection. Lip Glosses: Provide shine and subtle colour with higher oil content for smoother application. Lip Liners: Redefine lip outlines; harder formulation than lipsticks. Lip Balms: Prevent dryness and chapping; may include active ingredients like cocoa butter and glycerin. Effects on Lips Long-wearing lipsticks and plumping formulas may cause dryness due to silicones, menthol, or camphor. Lip balms with sunscreens can help prevent herpes simplex reactivation. Required Qualities For all lip products: Attractive shades, long-lasting, non-staining, pleasant taste, and ease of application. For glosses: Provide a shiny, wet look. For liners: Firm texture to prevent running. For balms: Effective moisturization. Typical Ingredients Waxes: Provide structure and stability (e.g., beeswax, carnauba wax).  Oils and Butters: Add softness and moisture (e.g., castor oil, shea butter). Colour Additives: Include organic pigments, lakes, and effect pigments like mica for shimmer. Antioxidants: Prevent rancidity (e.g., vitamin E, BHA). Preservatives: Protect against microbial contamination (e.g., parabens). Texturizing Agents: Enhance product feel and stability (e.g., talc, silica). Lipstick Types Matte: High pigment, less oil; longer-lasting but less shiny. Glossy: High oil content for shine but less durable. Shimmer: Contain light-reflecting particles for special occasions. Long-Wearing: Two-part systems with a base and colourless cover. Plumping: Use irritants like cinnamon or menthol for a fuller look. Formulation Process Steps: ○ Pigment Milling: Ensure smooth, even colour. ○ Melting and Mixing: Combine waxes and oils at elevated temperatures. ○ Moulding: Pour melted mix into moulds while maintaining optimal temperature. ○ Flaming: Final step to create a glossy finish. Variations: Lip balms and glosses use similar processes but with ingredient modifications. Common Quality Issues Aeration: Tiny holes from trapped air during mixing. Laddering: Layered appearance from uneven cooling. Sweating: Oil droplets due to formulation imbalances. Bleeding: Separation of pigments and waxes. Evaluation Parameters include break strength, colour brightness, and moisturizing efficacy. Lead Content: Strictly regulated due to health risks; FDA limits to ≤20 ppm. Packaging Lipsticks: Cases with twisting mechanisms. Glosses: Glass or plastic tubes with applicators. Balms: Pots or tins, sometimes in stick form. Liners: Pencils with wooden or plastic casings.