Cosmetics Interaction with Skin PDF

# Interaction Between the Skin and Cosmetic Products Cosmetics are preparations applied to the human body for beauty, preservation, or altering the appearance, for cleansing, coloring, conditioning, or protecting the skin, hair, nails, lips, eyes, or teeth. ## Daily Use of Cosmetics Daily use of...

# Interaction Between the Skin and Cosmetic Products Cosmetics are preparations applied to the human body for beauty, preservation, or altering the appearance, for cleansing, coloring, conditioning, or protecting the skin, hair, nails, lips, eyes, or teeth. ## Daily Use of Cosmetics Daily use of cosmetics affects the skin microbiome and depends on the product type, duration of use, and participant characteristics. A balanced skin microbiome plays an important role in skin health, and alterations can lead to the overgrowth of pathogenic strains linked to various skin diseases. ## Makeup Interaction Makeup interaction is an exchange between light, makeup products (or raw materials), and human skin. - **Visual Interaction:** Occurs when the optical ray of light is modified by the optical properties of the cosmetic ingredients and the skin's surface. - **Biochemical interaction:** Occurs when the finished makeup is perturbed by the biochemical and mechanical functions of the skin. Cosmetic products that irritate or inflame the skin can also cause dark spots or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). # Negative Effects of Wearing Makeup Regular makeup wear, without proper cleaning, may result in side effects which can impact the skin's overall health, and depends on: - Duration of its stay on the skin. - Makeup type. - The frequency of its wear. - Skin's sensitivity. - Constituents of cosmetic products. ## Effects of Cosmetic Products on the Skin - **Clogged Pores:** Pores are tiny openings in the skin around hair follicles and sweat glands that allow the skin to breathe, hydrate, and help move liquids and gasses through the skin's surface. When cosmetic products are left on the skin for too long, the skin can react causing breakouts, whiteheads, blackheads, bumps, or other skin issues, contributing to enlarged pores that are more visible and prone to chronic clogging. - **Oily or Dry Skin:** The use of improper products can cause excessive oil production or a depletion of the skin's oil. This can cause clogged pores and breakouts (in the case of the former), or xerosis which may cause rough and scaly patches that might itch, crack, or bleed (in the case of the latter). - **Premature Aging:** Long durations of cosmetic products can cause the clogging of pores and limits collagen and elastin production in the skin, leading to lines and wrinkles. Sun damage, which causes 90% of visible skin aging, also contributes. - **Breakouts:** Breakouts can result from diet, lifestyle, and hormonal imbalances. Cosmetic products can worsen existing breakouts and trigger more frequent breakouts. To combat this, it's advised to limit the use of cosmetic products if you are acne prone and choose oil-free products that are non-comedogenic (will not clog pores). - **Eye irritation:** Cosmetic products used on the eyes should be carefully selected, especially if the products are to be used on the thinner, delicate skin around the eyes. This is to reduce the possibility of irritants. Eye liners and mascaras ought to be replaced every 3 months since they are prone to fungal and bacterial contamination. The application of eyeliners or highlighters to the inside of the eyelid or waterline blocks oil glands that protect your cornea and may introduce bacteria or particles from the product into the eyes. Healthy eyes are able to clear away contaminates, but "tightlining" could worsen symptoms for those with sensitive or dry eyes or escalate issues for people wearing contacts. ## Health Concerns Cosmetic products that contain toxic or carcinogenic ingredients may pose serious health risks. The FDA does not require manufacturers to test their products for safety, and when tested, the focus is typically on short-term side effects to the skin such as allergic reactions or irritations. Long-term toxic or carcinogenic effects are difficult to identify with cosmetic products, and more research is needed to ascertain if low doses of certain ingredients can build up and eventually cause harm. Trusted medical grade skincare brands are advised for use. ## Ways to Care for the Skin - Check expiration dates of products. - Wear makeup with gentle, non-comedogenic ingredients that match the individual's skin type. - Skip makeup before workouts. - Wash makeup brushes and sponges weekly to kill bacteria and remove product residue, sweat, and dead skin cells. - Use medical-grade skin care products. - Double cleanse (oil-based and water-based). - Choose a physician-led medical SPA for preventative treatments and corrective measures. # Allergy Beauty products, including shampoos, makeup, and even cologne, can irritate the skin or cause an allergic reaction. Symptoms can range from simple rashes to more severe allergic reactions. There are two different types of skin reactions to cosmetic products: - **Irritant contact dermatitis:** Happens when a product, such as perfume or makeup, damages the skin. The skin might burn, itch, sting, or appear red wherever the product was used. - **Allergic contact dermatitis:** Occurs when a person's immune system is sensitized to an allergen. A rash usually develops after exposure to the allergen. Symptoms can include redness, swelling, and intense itching. This reaction can occur on any part of the body, though it is most often seen on the face, lips, eyes, ears, and neck. ## Symptoms of Cosmetic Allergy - Rash or hives - Puffy, raised areas of skin - Red, itchy eyes - Watery eyes - Small, red spots on the skin ## Mechanism When a person comes into contact with an allergen, it releases histamine, a natural chemical that defends the body from the allergen. This chemical can cause an allergic reaction and its associated symptoms. ## Common Allergens Used in Cosmetics - Fragrances - Rosin - Preservatives - Lanolin - Sunscreen allergens - Paraphenylenediamine - Coconut diethanolamide ## Treatment for Cosmetic Allergy Treatment aims to relieve symptoms like itching, swelling, and redness. For mild reactions, over-the-counter creams and ointments containing mild topical steroids can be utilized. Other treatments include: - Corticosteroids. - Antihistamines. - Cold compress. - Patch testing, blood testing, or allergy skin testing which can be used to confirm suspected triggers and provide advanced treatment if needed, such as immunotherapy. # Skin and Surfactants Interactions One of the primary causes of skin irritation is the use of body wash cosmetics and household chemicals, since they are in direct contact with the skin, and widely available and frequently used. The main ingredients of these products are surfactants that can have diverse effects on the skin. ## Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactants The skin irritation potential of surfactants is determined by their chemical and physical properties resulting from their structure, and specific interactions with the skin: - Surfactants can interact with proteins and lipids in the stratum corneum. - They are capable of penetrating through the stratum corneum and affecting living cells in deeper regions of the skin. - They can cause damage to cell membranes and structural components of keratinocytes, releasing pro-inflammatory mediators. - They can cause irreversible changes in cell structure, leading to their death. ## Properties of Surfactants Their amphiphilic structure (the ability to reduce surface tension at the interface between phases: liquid-liquid, liquid-solid, and liquid-gas, fat emulsification capacity) makes them a base for body wash cosmetics and many cleaning agents like hand dishwashing liquids and liquid laundry detergents. ## Surfactants Interaction with the Skin - **Interaction with SC lipids:** This was previously believed to be limited exclusively to washing lipids forming the epidermal hydrolipid film. However, surfactants are capable of interacting with lipids which form the SC intercellular cement. - **Interaction with SC surface proteins:** Surfactants are a significant factor in skin irritation. The presence of individual surfactant molecules (monomers) in the aqueous solution results in the reaction, and the skin irritation potential depends on the duration of skin contact with the surfactant before the CMC (critical micelle concentration) is achieved, the surfactant type, and concentration. Once the CMC is exceeded, the severity of the irritant effect is lower, but monomers adsorbed on the skin surface may interact with the SC keratin protein, causing denaturation of its a-helix structure, exposing sites where water molecules can bind. Swelling of the stratum corneum can occur, and the degradation of the protein structure facilitates the washing of proteins from the skin, making it easier for other chemical compounds and pathogens to penetrate deeper SC layers. - **Interaction with living skin cells:** The denaturation of proteins building the stratum corneum, and interactions between the intercellular substance and surfactants, can cause damage to the skin's protective barrier. Surfactants can migrate more easily into deeper epidermal layers, where keratinocytes are present. They are capable of binding to the keratinocytic cytoplasm, causing impairment, permanent destruction, or even cell death. This can induce permanent damage to living skin cells, referred to as skin toxicity, producing topical inflammatory reactions of the skin, which can be characterized as irritant contact dermatitis (ICD). This condition belongs to the most common cutaneous diseases. ## Methods to Reduce Skin Irritation Potential To reduce the irritation potential of surfactants, it is recommended to: - Lower the concentration of monomers, - Increase the size of micelles, and - Stabilize them in the solution having contact with the skin. This can be achieved through: - Anionic surfactants with a proven mild effect on the skin. - Mixtures of different surfactant types. - Addition of polymers, refatting agents, and hydrophobic substances as the primary washing agent in the formulations. # Further Reading - Seweryn, A. (2018). Interaction between surfactants and the skin-Theory and practice. _Adv Colloid Interface Sci_, _256_(1), 242-255.