Cosemtics 1 Introduction to cosmetics.pdf.pdf

6/4/2023 An introduction to cosmetics Marwan Q. Nadir B.Sc. In Pharmacy Outlines Cosmetics Definitions History Types of cosmetics Skin structure Hair stru...

6/4/2023 An introduction to cosmetics Marwan Q. Nadir B.Sc. In Pharmacy Outlines Cosmetics Definitions History Types of cosmetics Skin structure Hair structure Components of Cosmetic Products Cosmetic brands available in Kurdistan 1  6/4/2023 Cosmetics Cosmetics are products used to enhance or change the appearance of the face, fragrance or the texture of the body. Many cosmetics are designed for use of applying to the face and body. Cosmetics Cosmetics are generally mixtures of chemical compounds derived from natural sources (such as coconut oil), or may be synthetic or semisynthetic. Cosmetics that are applied to the face to enhance one's appearance are also known as makeup which include items such as; lipstick, mascara, eye shadow, foundation, blush, highlighter, bronzer and several other products. 2  6/4/2023 Definitions The term cosmetology is relatively vague and cannot always be found in dictionaries. It refers to the scientific and investigative basis of cosmetics, with its biological, chemical, and medical ramifications. A cosmetician is a person engaged in the field of cosmetics, whose work is directed toward the care, protection, and improvement in the appearance of the skin. Dermatology refers to the medical specialty of diagnosing and treating diseases of the skin, hair, and nails. A dermatologist is a physician specializing in the various aspects of skin disease. History Skin care is not a modern trend. In fact, people in every civilization used cosmetics to protect and embellish their skin – which naturally leads us to conclude that this is a primordial need. Egyptian men and women used makeup to enhance their appearance. They were very fond of eyeliner and eye-shadows in dark colors including blue, red, and black. Cleopatra stepped into her legendary bath of milk more than 2,000 years ago. Nefertiti bust showing the use of eye liner made of kohl. 3  6/4/2023 History Ancient Sumerian men and women were possibly the first to invent and wear lipstick, about 5,000 years ago. Cosmetics are mentioned in the Old Testament, such as in 2 Kings 30, where Jezebel painted her eyelids— approximately 840 BC. Roman women used to dye their hair darker with a mixture of boiled walnuts and leeks. History When Hitler tried to ban make-up in Germany, German women refused to work. Cosmetics were for the first time openly put up for sale in the early part of the twentieth century. At the end of the Second World War when people celebrated the return of their loved ones, there occurred a true surge in cosmetic sale and it still continues. 4  6/4/2023 Types of cosmetic products Skin care products. Hair care products. Eye care products. Shampoos. Nails care products. Dental care products. 5  6/4/2023 Skin Structure The skin, the largest organ in the human body, is composed of two layers: the epidermis and the dermis. Underneath the dermis lies the subcutis, which consists mainly of fat cells. Epidermis: The epidermis forms the outer layer. At the base of this layer, the cells continuously divide, forming new cells. As cells are made, they are pushed toward the surface by the newer cells underneath them, and eventually reach the keratinous layer. Finally, the outermost cells in the keratinous layer are shed. Functions of epidermis 1. Water and electrolyte permeability barrier. 2. Mechanical barrier. 3. Microbial barrier/immune function. 4. Hydration/moisturization. 5. Protection from environmental toxins. 6. Desquamation. 6. UV barrier. 7. Oxidative stress barrier. 6  6/4/2023 Dermis Dermis: forms the layer below the epidermis and is thicker than the epidermis. The dermis is mainly made up of collagen and elastin fibers. It also contains blood vessels, nerves, sensory organs, sebaceous glands, sweat glands, and hair follicles. Hair Structure The hair consists of an elongated part, which grows from the dermis and protrudes above the surface of the skin, known as the hair shaft. Hair grows from a hair follicle, an elongated tubular structure in the skin, which is lined with cells. One or more sebaceous glands open into the hair follicle. A fatty substance called sebum is produced by the sebaceous glands and passes via a short duct from the gland into the hair follicle. The region below the lower end of the follicle is called the papilla. It is also called the dermal or follicular papilla; it contains blood vessels that nourish the hair follicle. 7  6/4/2023 Types of hair Vellus Hair: This is fine, short, light-colored hair. Its length rarely exceeds 2cm. Terminal Hair: Terminal hair is longer, thicker, more pigmented, and coarser than vellus hair. Before adolescence, terminal hair is found only on the scalp, the eyebrows, and the eyelashes. During sexual maturation, in response to hormonal changes, some hair follicles from which vellus hair previously grew start to produce terminal hair. Intermediate Type: Apart from the two types of hair noted above, there are some hairs that represent an intermediate form. These are somewhere in the wide range between the vellus hair type and the terminal hair type. Phases of hair growth Anagen (The Active Growing Phase): In the anagen phase, the hair cells at the base of the hair follicle are dividing repeatedly, and the hair grows steadily. This growth phase can last from several months to several years (on the scalp, the average time is approximately three years). Catagen (The Transition Phase): This relatively brief phase, lasting some 2-4 weeks, is a transitional phase during which the hair stops growing. Telogen: this phase lasts three to six months. During this period, the mechanism responsible for the replication of the cells at the base of the hair, and the subsequent hair growth, are inactive for several months. Exogen: By the end of telogen, the hair is only loosely attached to the follicle, and can be easily pulled out simply by brushing or washing the hair. 8  6/4/2023 Phases of hair growth Components of Cosmetic Products A cosmetic preparation consists of the following three components: (an active ingredient, a base (or vehicle), and an additional substance). In neither medical nor cosmetic use is the active ingredient meant to be applied to the skin in its pure chemical form. The active ingredient is combined with a base and with other substances to create the effective preparation. This combination ensures that the active ingredient penetrates the skin. Active Ingredient: is the main component of the preparation for external use, whose action produces the main effect. The active ingredient might be, for example: An antibiotic medication, used for the treatment of acne or a bacterial skin infection, a substance intended to inhibit aging of the skin, and a substance that lightens dark lesions on the skin. 9  6/4/2023 Components of Cosmetic Products Base (Vehicle): This is the material that “carries” the active ingredient into the skin. It “transport” the active ingredient to the skin. The base must ensure that the active ingredient remains chemically stable, can penetrate the skin, and can be released effectively within the skin. The three elemental bases are: (fatty bases, aqueous (water) solutions, and powders). Water By using one of the above, or a combination of them, the wide array of dosage forms can be produced: ointments, creams, emulsions, solutions, powders, pastes, suspensions, or lotions. Powder Fatty base Components of Cosmetic Products The role of the base is not merely a transporting an active ingredient into the skin. In many cases, the base itself may have specific effects on the skin, such as increasing the moisture level, soothing, or cooling. A considerable portion of the cosmetics industry is devoted to these bases alone, without the addition of any active ingredients. Additional Substances: Medicinal or cosmetic preparations usually also contain other substances. Common additives are: (fragrances and perfumes, dyes, and preservatives.) 10  6/4/2023 Components of Cosmetic Products Examples of preservatives: benzoic acid, imidazolidinyl urea, benzyl alcohol, parabens, formaldehyde, and kathon CG. In cases where an allergic reaction develops following the use of a certain cosmetic preparation, the source of the reaction is not necessarily the active ingredient, but may be induced by one of the preservatives contained in the preparation The use of preservatives is a necessary evil. It is better to add a preservative to a cosmetic preparation, as required by the relevant standard, than to use a defective or moldy preparation that may contain bacteria or fungi. Components of Cosmetic Products A substance infected by bacteria develops an unpleasant smell. Generally, it loses its uniform texture, and there is a definite separation into its two phases: watery and oily. There may be various discolored areas on the surface of the product General tips to avoid deterioration of cosmetic product: 1. Cosmetic products should not be exposed to sunlight or high temperatures 2. Most cosmetic and medical products should be stored in a cool, dark, and dry place. 3. Avoid leaving bits of paper or cotton wool inside the container after using the product, since these are the main sources of bacterial contamination. 4. Cosmetic or medical preparations should not be transferred to empty jars. 11  6/4/2023 Cosmetic brands available in Kurdistan Cosmetic brands available in Kurdistan 12 6/4/2023 13