Dr Hanan Cosmetics Notes PDF

WELCOME  Facilitated by: Prof. Dr. Hanan M. Al Nahas Prof. Dr. Azza Ali Hasan Dr. Eman Goma 2 SHAMPOO 3  SHAMPOO Shampoo is a hair care product of surfactant in suitable form, liquid, solid, or powder. used for the re...

WELCOME  Facilitated by: Prof. Dr. Hanan M. Al Nahas Prof. Dr. Azza Ali Hasan Dr. Eman Goma 2 SHAMPOO 3  SHAMPOO Shampoo is a hair care product of surfactant in suitable form, liquid, solid, or powder. used for the removal of oils, dirt, skin particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair. The goal is to remove the unwanted build-up without stripping out so much sebum as to make hair unmanageable. Even though most modern shampoos include a conditioning component, shampooing is frequently followed by the use of conditioners which ease combing and styling. 4  CHARACTERS OF GOOD SHAMPOO 1- A shampoo should clean away the oil and dirt, rinse out easily, and leave your hair shiny, manageable, and flexible 2- Should be easily removed from hair when washed by water. 3-Must not cause irritation or damage to eyes if contact them. 4- Shouldn`t irritate the scalp. 5  Generally: Shampoo is made by combining a surfactant, most often sodium lauryl sulfate and/or sodium laureth sulfate with a co-surfactant, most often cocamidopropyl betaine in water to form a thick, viscous liquid. Other essential ingredients include salt (sodium chloride), which is used to adjust the viscosity, a preservative and fragrance. 6  Other ingredients are generally included in shampoo formulations to maximize the following qualities: Pleasing foam Easy rinsing Minimal skin/eye irritation Feels thick and/or creamy Pleasant fragrance Low toxicity Good biodegradability Slightly acidic (pH less than 7), since a basic environment weakens the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in hair keratin. No damage to hair 7 Commonly used ingredients Detergent (HLB= 13-15): helps remove the dirt, excess oil and grime from the hair. However, the detergent in shampoos has to be mild, because the skin of the scalp and the hair are quite delicate and can get damaged by very strong detergent. E.g. Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate is used to soften water and create a lather 8 Commonly used ingredients Special Effect Agents: There are certain agents added in the shampoo to make it look like what it does. Like pearlescent shampoos have an ingredient called glycol distearate to give it the respective look. Other ingredients like herbs, honey etc are added for the marketing and concept advantage. Sodium Lauroamphoacetate is used as a cleanser and counter-irritant. This is the ingredient that makes the product tear-free. 9  Preservatives: In order to ensure that the shampoo's ingredients stay good and to delay any reactions caused due to passage of time. pH Balance: You must have noticed that most shampoos advertise about the amazing pH balance of the shampoo. The pH balance is the slightly acidic nature of the shampoo that has to be there to nullify the alkaline effect on the hair cuticles. It is required to make the hair, smooth, soft and shiny. 10  Conditioners: This is an ingredient in all shampoos. However, depending on the ratio of the ingredient, the need for the consumer to use another conditioner may differ. The conditioner helps make the hair smooth, soft and strong. It also helps reduce the knotting in the hair, which helps reduce hair breakage and hair fall. E.g. Dimethicone: This ingredient basically coats the hair. Surfactant: as Polysorbate 20 is a mild surfactant that is used to solubilize fragrance oils and essential oils; meaning it causes liquid to spread across and penetrate the surface of a solid 11  SPECIALIZED SHAMPOOS : DANDRUFF: What is dandruff (seborrhea)? It is a common form of skin eczema that occurs in parts of the body with high oil (sebum) production. Body areas that are commonly affected include the scalp, ears, face, chest, and folds of skin, such as the underarms or the skin below breasts or overhanging abdominal folds. The cause of seborrhea is unknown, although a yeast that 12 often lives on the skin may play a role. ❖ It contains fungicides such as 1- ketoconazole or 2- zinc pyrithione or 3- selenium sulfide which reduce loose dander by killing fungi (Malassezia furfur) Coal tar and salicylate derivatives are often used as well 13 DRY SHAMPOO 14 DRY SHAMPOO Is a powdered substance that is used to clean the hair when it is not possible or practical to use water and traditional shampoos. The idea behind dry shampoo is to remove excess oil from hair follicles without having to actually wash the hair using a traditional shampoo and water. It is not unusual for households to keep a small amount of dry shampoo on hand as part of an emergency hygiene kit. In the event that water is not available 15 Bath Preparations and Baby Cosmetics 16  Baby Cosmetics Baby cosmetic are the makeup products which are intended to rubbed, sprinkled, introduced in or applied to any parts of baby bodies for protecting, cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance. Examples; baby powder, baby soap, baby lotions, baby oils, baby shampoo etc. Uses: Baby cosmetics are used to treat different problems like: dry skin, eczema, and diaper rashes. 17  Bath preparations Foam bath Bath salt Bath oil After bath products Baby cosmetics Baby oil Baby powder Baby lotion Baby shampoo Baby soap 18  Bath Preparation Those preparations which are used for washing or Immersing the body or body parts in water, steam or any medium for purpose of cleansing or medical treatments are bath preparations. Examples of bath preparations includes: foam bath, bath salt, bath oil, bath lotion, creams, moisturizers and other cosmetic products. 19  Foam Bath Foam bath refers to a bath taken in water containing a saponin substance that covers the surface of liquid and through which air or oxygen is blown to form the foam. Advantages: Foams increase the overall volume of a specific liquid without increasing the amount of liquid used Uses: Foam bath products like foam soap deposits a rich lather foamy layer in its site of application which promotes hand washing and makes it an ideal choice in cosmetic and healthcare products.20  Bath Salt Bath salts are water-soluble, pulverized minerals added to bath water. They are said to improve cleaning, enhance bathing enjoyment, and serve as a vehicle for cosmetic agents. Bath salts have been developed to mimic the properties of natural mineral baths or hot springs. Examples: magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts), sodium chloride (table salt), sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), and sodium citrate. Advantages: When used in natural or pure form, it contains many beneficial minerals and nutrients that keep skin smooth and soft. They detoxify our skin and 21 Manage symptoms of osteoarthritis.  Bath Oil A volume of oil in which a solid is submerged for lubrication, preservation, or tempering is referred to as bath oil Examples of bath oil include; olive oil, sesame oil, lavender oil, sandalwood oil, etc. Advantages: Bath oils are utilized for their luxury and aromatherapeutic benefits, as well as to make skin smooth and soft and provide rejuvenation. Uses: Bath oils are used for medicinal purposes,as improving blood circulation, increasing the range of motion in joints, reducing fatigue and stiffness in joints, and helping to increase the glow of the skin. 22  After Bath Products These are the products which are applied on a body after bathing to moisturize the skin or to soften the skin. It includes lotions, conditioner, moisturizing cream and oils. 23  After Bath Products These are the products which are applied on a body after bathing to moisturize the skin or to soften the skin. It includes lotions, conditioner, moisturizing cream and oils. Baby Oil Are used regularly on babies skin which will help to soften and nourish the skin, eliminating dry and rough patches, because the warm water of the bath opens up the pores to help the skin absorb the oil. Baby oil can be made from coconut, olive, sesame, nut or lavender. 24  Baby Powder The finely divided free flowing powder intended to the body surface or face of a baby for different purposes. Baby powder is an astringent powder. They are used for preventing diaper rash, itching, infection and inflammations, as a deodorant, and for other cosmetic uses. Examples: talcum powder, co-trimoxazole dusting, and zinc oxide. 25  Baby Lotion The semisolid cosmetic preparation used on the skin without rubbing. Lotions have a soothing property, and help to moisturize newborn skin. 26  Baby Shampoo Baby shampoo is a cosmetic preparation containing surface active agents. 27  Baby Soap These are used to wash the body of a baby. They are made from the salt of vegetable or animal fats. Examples: Johnson’s baby soap. 28 HAIR COLORANTS 29  HAIR COLORANTS These are used either to hide gray hair or to change the color of the hair. An ideal hair dye should have the following properties:- Should be nontoxic to the skin or hair and should not impair natural gloss and texture. Should not be a dermatitis sensitizer. The color imparted must be stable to air, light, water, and shampoo. Should be easy to apply. 30 HAIR DYES ARE DIVIDED INTO: 1) Vegetable Example is Henna 2) Metallic Example:- Lead dyes, Bismuth dyes, Silver dyes, Copper, nickel, cobalt salts Formula:- (Lead dyes) Precipitated Sulphur……………….1.3% Lead acetate………………………..1.6% Glycerin…………………………….9.6% Rose water………………………….87.5% 31  Hair dyes are divided into: (cont.) 3) Synthetic organic dyes They are of two types. a) Semi-permanent dye. Thioglycolic acid……50% NH3 solution (PH 9.2)…100% b) Permanent dyes Paraphenylene diamine dye C) Demi-permanents. fall in between 32  Temporary and semi-permanent hair dyes coat the outer cuticle with small color molecules. These typically wash off after 6-12 shampoos and do not affect natural pigments in the middle cortex. Permanent dyes contain varying amounts of peroxide or other bleaching agents that penetrate the outer cuticle. These chemicals enter the middle cortex, lifting out natural pigments and replacing them with dye color molecules. The dye color molecules are long- chained chemicals that can't pass through the outer cuticle, and so never wash out. 33  Demi-permanents fall in between...they work mostly like a semi- permanent dye but contain just enough peroxide to penetrate the cuticle partially. The difference is the color molecules deposited in the middle cortex are short-chained chemicals. They can pass through the outer cuticle, so color washes out after 18-24 shampoos. 34 HAIR DYE REMOVER 35  HAIR COLOR REMOVER When hair color disaster strikes, the right hair color remover can help. Whether it's an ill-fated salon visit or attempt at home coloring your own hair, removing hair dye will usually set things right. But to remove hair color successfully, you must know which product is best for you. Factors to consider are: What kind of dye was used? Temporary, semi, demi, permanent or henna? Is hair too dark or too light? Does hair have both artificial and natural re-growth color? 36  TYPES OF HAIR COLOR REMOVERS Abrasive If you used a temporary, semi or demi-permanent hair color, try an abrasive hair color remover first. These products accelerate the fading process and are less harsh than commercial chemical removers. Buy a strong anti-dandruff shampoo such as Head & Shoulders or Prell and use several times Oxidative To remove permanent hair color use an oxidative product which is formulated specifically for this purpose. It will penetrate into the middle cortex and shrink color molecules. Bleaching Is sometimes recommended to lighten hair that's too dark. But be careful. Bleach (formulated specifically for hair, never household!) can damage the cuticle, making hair weak and porous.37  When removing Henna, don't use a chemical hair color remover. Instead, shampoo frequently to fade color and wait for hair to grow out. Plain yogurt is a natural hair dye remover that lightens henna when applied to dry hair for an hour. 38  TIPS TO REMOVE HAIR COLORING Color removal should be done within 3 days of hair coloring before the dye sets. The earlier, the better. Apply conditioner after using color removal. Avoid other hair treatments for at least 3 days. Don’t use chemical hair color removal products on hair treated with henna. If removing color at home, use the hottest water you can comfortably manage. Hot water encourages color loss, while cold water seals the cuticles and retains color. 39  HAIR DYE REMOVER Formula:- Formamidine sulfinic acid ……………….1.5% PVP………………………………………… ……….5% Ethylene glycol mono butyl ether………..5% Ammonium carbonate……………………1% Ammonia…………………………………..0.5% CMC………………………………………..2.5% Water up to ……………………………….1oo Formamidine sulfinic acid is acting as hair dye remover. 40  HAIR GROOMING AIDS These are important group of cosmetics which are used both by men and women to keep their hair in order for good looking, &enhance overall appearance. Types:- 1. Brilliantines & Hair oils 2. Hair setting lotions 3. Hair creams 4. Hair lacquers or sprays 41 HAIR TONICS 42  Hair Tonic Hair Tonic is a supplement that is specifically intended to promote the growth of your hair in a fashion that is particularly sustained and well- managed. Also, hair tonic is used to beat hair loss. It contains a range of ingredients that are going to target your follicles as well as nourish your skin in order to provide you with significant results over a time span. 43  Hair Tonic Ingredients Industrial methylated spirit diluted with water: common vehicle. 10-95% alcohol acts as a solvent for removing fatty acid – protein complex from the hair. 2-5% glycerin: emollient and lubricating effect and acts as a co-solvent. Rubefacient drugs to stimulate hair growth. Eg: cantharides, pilocarpine, quinine, ammonia, rosemary oil… Vitamins like Vit F, Vit K, biotin, pantothenic acid, hydrolyzed protein, and nucleic acid. Anti-dandruff material like sulfur, cationic surfactants, selinium, and cadmium sulfide, etc. 44  COSMETICS FOR NAILS Includes 1. Nail polishes 2. Nail lacquers & removers 3. Nail bleaches & Stain removers 4. Cuticle remover & softener 5. Fingernail elongations 45 NAILS: - Produced by cells in the epidermis - Nail plate (body): visible portion - Nail root: located under the cuticle - Lunula: half moon crescent-shaped white portion under the cuticle - Nail bed: located under a nail plate - Hypoxia: decrease oxygen in blood, nail bed will turn blue- cyanosis NAIL POLISHES 48  1 ) NAIL POLISHES A distinction between nail polishes and lacquer is that in nail polish exert the abrasive action. Due to friction it draw the blood to numerous capillaries of nail bed and increasing blood supply, and exert stimulating effect to growth of nail. Examples are stannic oxide, talc, precipitated chalk. Silica exert abrasive action. Formula:- Stannic oxide………………………90% Powdered silica…………………….8% Butyl stearate………………………2% Pigment & Perfume……………....q.s 49  NAIL LACQUERS AND REMOVERS Nail polish is a lacquer applied to toe nails and or finger nails for appearance, but also as nail protection. Polishing without adding chemical layers is called buffing. Most nail polishes are made of nitrocellulose dissolved in a solvent (e.g. butyl acetate or ethyl acetate) and either left clear or colored with various pigments 50  BASIC COMPONENTS INCLUDED ARE: 1- Film forming agents, resins and plasticizers, solvents, and coloring agents. Cellulose acetate butyrate, ethyl cellulose, methacrylate polymers, vinyl polymers, nitro cellulose. Disadvantages of nitrocellulose include, shrink, so become brittle, low adhesion and low order of gloss. Therefore it is necessary to modify nitrocellulose with addition of resins and plasticizers to improve gloss and adhesion, impart flexibility and minimize shrinkage WHY? 51  2- Adhesive polymers (e.g. formaldehyde resin) ensure that the nitrocellulose adheres to the nail's surface. 3- Plasticizers (e.g. camphor) are chemicals that link between polymer chains, spacing them to make the film sufficiently flexible after drying. 4-Pigments and the sparkling particles (e.g. mica) add desired color 52  5- Thickening agents (e.g. stearalkonium hectorite) are added to maintain the sparkling particles in suspension while in the bottle. 6- Ultraviolet stabilizers (e.g. benzophenone- 1) resist color changes when the dry film is exposed to direct sunlight 53  Note Nail polish ingredients often include toluene. Solvents such as toluene and xylene are petroleum-based products that have been linked to cancer. Formaldehyde (formalin) may cause allergic reactions and is unsafe for use by asthmatic people. It is a carcinogen. 54  LACQUER REMOVERS These are also called as nail cleansers which is applied to remove nail lacquers. The most common type of nail polish remover contains acetone. It is powerful and effective, but is harsh on skin and nails, can even make them more brittle. It also can damage false nails. 55  The common alternative is simply called "non- acetone nail polish remover", and usually contains ethyl acetate. This works more slowly, but is far less damaging, and can also be used to clean chemicals off of other surfaces safely, like laptop computers, that can sometimes be damaged by acetone. Acetonitrile has been used as a nail polish remover, but is thought to be more toxic and has been banned in the European Economic Area for cosmetics, since 17 March 2000 56  Non-acetone nail polish remover also removes permanent marker completely and easily, with a single wipe. 57  FORMULATION OF LACQUER REMOVERS Ingredients Amount Butyl acetate 15 gm Ethylene glycol monoethyl ether 80 gm Propylene glycol ricinoleate 05 gm Perfume q.s 58 COSMETICS FOR EYES 59  COSMETICS FOR EYES Includes following preparations 1. Eye shadow 2. Mascara 3. Eye brow pencil 4. Eye cream 5. Eye liners 60 1) EYE SHADOW Give a back ground of color to the eye Formulated as cream, liquid, powder or stick. Ultramarine(20 part) & Ti02 --- (BLUE) Iron oxide(30 part) &Ti02 (5 part)-- (BROWN) 61  EYE SHADOW (CONT.) Ingredients Amount Petroleum jelly 47.5 gm Liquid lanolin 4.5 gm Bees wax 4.5 gm Micro crystalline wax 8.5 gm Isopropyl myristate 35 gm 62 2) EYE LINER Eye liner is a cosmetic used to define the eyes. It is applied around the contours of the eye to create a variety of aesthetic illusions. Although primarily aimed at females Types 1) Pencil type 2) Liquid type (suspension in a base containing film forming material) 3) Cake eye liners 63  FORMULAE Liquid eyeliner is an opaque liquid that usually comes in a small bottle and is applied with a tiny brush or felt applicator. It creates a sharp, precise line. Powder-based eye pencil is eyeliner in a wood pencil. It is generally available in dark matte shades. Wax-based eye pencils are softer pencils and contain waxes that ease application. They come in a wide variety of intense coolers.Wax-based eyeliners can also come in a cone or a compact with brush applicator.. 64  Kohl eyeliner is a soft powder available in dark matte shades. It is most often used in black to outline the eyes. It comes in pencil, pressed powder, or loose powder form. This type of eyeliner is more likely to smudge. Less commonly found is gel eye liner, which is a softer gel liner that can be easily applied with an eyeliner brush 65 66  3) EYE BROW PENCIL Contain high proportion of wax to increase M.P so that these can be molded into sticks. Ingredient Amount Bees wax 25% Ozokerite 25% Butyl stearate 8% Lanolin 2% Castor oil 25% Mineral oil 15% Perfume q.s Antioxidant q.s 67  4) MASCARA Black pigmented preparation for applying to eye lashes or eye brows ,it darkens the eye lashes & gives an illusion of their density and length. Type:- Cake , Cream , Liquid Formulation:- Carbon black 55 % Coconut oil sodium soap 25% Palm oil –sodium soap 22.5% 68  TOILET POWDERS A fine powder for spreading on the body. (as after bathing) Used to impart smooth skin and masking minor visible imperfection. Powders characters: 1- Not be hard and crystals must not of sharp edges that might damage the skin. 2- Not be soluble in water and skin fat. 3- Not be irritant or toxic. 4- of good covering power so can hide skin blemishes. 5- Not be completely dissipated in few minutes. 6- Adhere perfectly to the skin. 7- of a matt or peach like characters. 69  Components of powders: Materials which impart adhesion: Stearates of zinc and magnesium (fatty acid salts). They are fluffy, water proof and of good covering. Materials which impart covering power: Have the ability to cover skin imperfections, pores in face. As Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Mg stearate, and starch. Materials which impart absorbency: To prevent smudging of make-up by perspiration. Colloidal kaolin has good absorbance for aqueous, fatty substances, and of good covering power. 70  WHY? Bentonite rarely used (swell by water). CaCO3 not used due to incompatibility with soap. MgCO3 is less alkaline than CaCO3, of good absorbance to both water and fats, good adhesion, fluffy and has good covering power. Starch of good water and fat absorbance, good adhesion, and non toxic. 71 Why? Talc is the most commonly used as it is of great softness and slip and almost neutral Disadvantages of Starch: Starch is an ideal culture for micro-organisms and not advisable for babies body, wounds, or foot powders. Suitable disinfectant should be added to starch. Colors for face powder: Must be of good dispersing power and be extremely fine. Iron oxide pigments red to yellow and brown are used. 72  TYPES A COMPACT POWDER: is cosmetic product. It is usually contained in a small, round case, CAKE MAKE-UP POWDER: Stiff paste-like consistency of powders, oil and water miscible substances (powdered cream). Pigments 12-50% Oils, waxes 0.8- 24% Water soluble agents 1%-13%. Fillers 35%-80%. 73  TALC POWDER: Absorb moisture after bathing and perspiration. Act as lubricant and inhibit skin irritation. It should be pure, white or grayish color, slip easily and lustrous appearance. Deodorant powder: ZnO and Zn Stearate with mild astringent effect. Bactricide as chlorhexidine diacetate added to suppress microorganisms proliferation that responsible for odor of perspiration. Baby powder: Talc powder or ZnO powder with boric acid as antiseptic. 74 75  LIP STICK A small stick of waxy lip coloring enclosed in a cylindrical case. Wax: beeswax and carnauba wax Oil: The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin. Also acts as solvent in some formulation. Acts as dispersing agent for insoluble pigments. The ideal mixture of oil should produce the product, easily spread & produce a thin film with good covering power. 76  Different types of oils like castor oil, vegetable oil, lanolin oil, Isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, Butyl stearate and mineral oil are used Castor oil (40% – 50%) is odourless, tasteless and stable (not rancid). So, castor oil is better than olive oil, almond oil which are unsuitable in lipstick. Pigments and Dyes: These are used in the lipstick to impart the desired color or shade to the lipstick. As bromo acid. Soluble Dyes / Staining Dyes : Example: Fluorescein, Eosin Insoluble Dyes / Nonstaining Dyes / lake colors 77 Fragrance: This is found in the lipstick in small amounts and is used to impart a pleasant scent to the lipstick, that suppresses the smell of the other ingredients used. It must be free of irritation and of good taste. Ex: floral fragrance. Alcohol: This is used as a solvent, for the wax and oils used as lipstick ingredients. Preservatives and Antioxidants: These are added to the lipstick to keep it fresh and to prevent it from becoming stale or rancid.. Generally used in combination Example: BHA, BHT, Propyl gallate, Citric acid 78 SURFACTANTS & OTHER ADDITIVES : SURFACTANTS :Used to promote wetting & stabilize the dispersion of insoluble pigments in lipstick base ADDITIVES: used for various purposes Oil - soluble sunscreen: filter the sunrays & protect lip skin from sun burn. Silicon fluid: used as fixative & prevent colors, from bleeding on lips. PVP: (conc. 0.5 – 1%) film former on lips & reduce allergic reaction of other ings. in lipstick. Isopropyl linoleate: prevent drying effect. 79  Defects in lipstick : Formulation related: Sweating Bleeding Blooming Streaking Seams Mould related: Laddering Deformation Catering Mushy Failure 80  FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS Bleeding: Separation of coloured liquids from the waxy base. It leads to extremely uneven color distribution Blooming: When the surface of the lipstick appears dull instead of desired gloss is called as the problem of blooming. It is chiefly due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol (> 5%) 81  MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS Laddering: Product has a ladder like appearance It does not look smooth or homogeneous after congealing & setting but instead a multilayered appearance. Occur due to either mould is kept at a very low temperature or when bulk formulation is not hot enough or filling rate is slow. Deformation: The shape of the lipstick looks deformed. It is most noticeable in softer formulae. Can appear on side of the lipstick or on both the sides. 82  MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS (cont.) Catering: This effect is mostly found in split mouldings. It shows up in flaming when the stick develops dimples (spots). The main cause is the presence of trace amounts of silicone oils or machinery lubrication oil from manufacturing mixtures or the dispenser mixture. Mushy Failure: The central core of the stick lacks structure & breaks. The problem is not related to particular formula or particular shade. The granularity caused by carnauba wax could be the reason for this problem. 83  Harmful Lipstick Ingredients Lipsticks may also consist of some of the following harmful ingredients. Lead: Lead is a commonly used lipstick ingredient, but can be very harmful if ingested. It can cause health hazards like infertility, anemia and cancer, as well as learning disabilities, mental retardation and behavioral problems. The FDA has laid strict regulations regarding the use of lead as a lipstick ingredient. Coal Tar Derived FD&C Coloring: Pigments used to make red lipstick, especially Red #40, are derived from coal tar. Coal Tar is a toxic mixture, which if ingested, can cause nausea, attention deficit, headaches, skin irritation, etc. 84  Carmine: This is a natural food coloring agent which is obtained by the boiling of pigmented beetles, and is known to cause skin irritations and allergies. Lake Colors: These are highly toxic, artificial coloring agents that are obtained from carcinogenic sources, and can cause cancer, skin irritation and allergies. Fragrance: The fragrance used as a lipstick ingredient can also be harmful, and can cause dry, chapped lips and dermatitis. 85 86 87