History of Fashion PDF
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This document provides a historical overview of fashion, ranging from the Bauhaus style to the 1930s and the work of key designers like Mariano Fortuny and Sonia Delaunay. It discusses influences, trends, and societal changes impacting fashion.
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BAUHAUS (1919-1933) The The Bauhaus was first founded by Walter Gropius in Welmar. Thay Bauhaus style later became one of the most influential in modern design, Modernist architecture and art, design and architectural education. The Bauhaus had a profound...
BAUHAUS (1919-1933) The The Bauhaus was first founded by Walter Gropius in Welmar. Thay Bauhaus style later became one of the most influential in modern design, Modernist architecture and art, design and architectural education. The Bauhaus had a profound foundation upon ART DECO Art Deco or Deco, is an influential visual arts design style that first appeared in France just before WW1 and began flourishing internationally.. SCHOOL OF PARIS Paris was attractive to foreign artists for a number of reasons: the lack of political repression, its relative economic stability, the presence of great masters of modern art, Picasso, Braque, Rounault, Matisse, Léger and a flourishing world of art galleries, critics and collectors who have supported artists. The exchanges and the confrontation of the ideas between the artists and the pluralism of the styles are also important characteristics of the school of paris. We count… MAN RAY (1890-1976) Refusing any hierachy between painting and photography, he considers the camera and the brush as instruments equivalent to what is the type writer for a writer phorographer data Dada MARIANO FORTUNY A complete artist 1889-1949 He was born in Spain Spent most of his life in Venice, Italy Painter, engraver, photography He used textilex, clothings as… The Delphos dress → huge success, emphasises the natural curves of the female's body SONIA DELAUNAY She was a Russian-born French artist, who spent most of her working life in Paris and, with her husband Robert Delaunay and others, cofounded the Orphism art movement, noted for its use of strong colors and geometric shapes. 30/10/2024 Fashion in the 1930s Women’s fashion softly evolved from the boyish look into the soft feminine silhouette of the early 30s The fashionable silhouette was evolving into a slender, elongated torso with widening shoulders and a neat head with softly waved short hair The bias cut Body-skimming silhouette Inspirations from movies and Hollywood Backless silhouettes ruled Surrealism in fashion Makeup in the 1930s Striking eyes that relied a lot in mascara Thin eyebrows Soft or pale shades of eyeshadow Lips were full, slightly overdrawn Golden age of Hollywood glamour Women's makeup became more refined Lip colors softened from the darker shades of the 1920s to more natural or muted reds Societal changes in the 1930s Economic impact of the Great Depression (1929 - 1939) Women had to take on traditionally male-dominated roles due to economic necessity Hollywood grew significantly, becoming a source of escapism A flourishing of art, literature, and music that reflected the struggles of the time The rise of mass media Rise of Totalitarian Regimes Spanish civil war phần này có học kiểm tra 2001 Creative Renaissance - ALBER ELBAZ Joined Lanvin in 2001 Start of a dynamic new era His leadership and innovative vision rejuvenated the brand, helping it become highly relevant in modern fashion Critical acclaim Under Elbaz's direction, Lanvin's collections received widespread acclaim for their blend of elegance and contemporary appeal His designs consistently resonated w critics n fashion aficionados alike Consumer appeal Elbaz's modern-meets-tradional style not only captured the brand's heritage but also ignited global consumer interest, solidifying Lanvin's position as a leading name in luxury fashion Design philosophy Elba balanced Lanvin's classic ethos w forward-thinking elements, creating timeless yet trend-setting pieces that made the brand a staple in contemporary wardrobe worldwide LANVIN today Management and ownership Lanvin is managed by Lanvin group, headquartered in Shanghaim with Eric Chan as CEO The group focuses on expanding Lanvin's global impact and operates under NYSE symbol “LANV" Thihs leaderhship shift marks a key moment in Lanvin's efforts to reinforce its identity as a contemporary luxury brand while staying rooted in its legacy June 2024 Artistic leaderhsip: Peter Copping was appointed Artistic Director of Lanvin in June 2024. He oversees both womenswear and menswear, starting his tenure in September 2024 Career backgorund: Copping's career spans work with Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, Creative Director roles at Oscar de la Renta and Nina Ricci, and a recent tenure at Balenciaga. His broad experience is expected to bring a fresh perspective to Lanvin Vision: Copping aims to blend Lanvin's historical French elegance with a modern, chic sensibility, aligning with Lanvin Group's tranformation strategy MAE WEST (1893 - 1980) Her body was used to make the Schiaparelli's perfume bottle Sexy, glamourous, chic, elegant, polish Strong relationship with Elsa Schiaparelli Strong relationship with fashion and Paris Famous in the film “Blue Angel" She was born in Berlin Pushed the boundaries of genders Played in several films → very famous Lots of black and white photos Distinctive style: glamourous, often androgynous fashion; wore men's suits, pushing boundaries in gender norms for her time (torng slide) VIVIENNE LEIGH (1913 - 1967) Vivienne Leigh's relationship with fashion, while more subtle than icons like Marlene Dietrich, waas significant, especially in shaping mid-century style Costume as character: Leigh's roles as Scarlett O'Hara and Blanche DuBois showcased costumes that became symbols of her characters. Scarlett's elaborate gowns, especially the iconic green curtain dress in “Gone wiith the Wind"... Collaborations with designers: for her stage and film appeareances, Leigh worked with celebrated designers like Olivier Messel and Christian Dior. Her off-screen wardrobe often mirrored her elegant, understrated style, favoring Dior's “New Look" with fitted waists and fuller skirts that defined 1940s and ‘50s fashion Classic, feminine style: graceful, feminne aesthetic, timeless pieces that align with her English heritage, welltailored coats, sleek suits, and simple yet chic dresses Viviene's understrated yet refined approach to fashion complemented her on-screen allure and lasting cultural impact, making her an icon classic of elegance INGRID BERGMAN (1915 - 1982) Natural elegance: know for her natural beauty and effortly style, she ofter wore minimal makeup and avoided glamourous image typical of Hollywood's Golden Age. Her understrated, natural aesthetic inspired a more relaxed approach to style and beauty → minimalistic elegance Androgynous, avant-garde style: Garbo was known for her androgynous style, wearing loose, masculine silhouettes such as wide-legged trousers, oversized coats, and tailored suits. This bold choice set her apart in an era when Hollywood glamourized ultra-feminine attire RITA HAYWORTH (1917 - 1981) Rita Hayworth's blend of bombshell allure and timeless elegance created an iconic look that has influenced… GINGER ROGERS (1911 - 1995) Ginger Rogers' fashion legacy is one of elegance, feminity, and movement, reflecting her status as both a Hollywood star and a timeless icon of dance and grace One of the best dancers in Hollywood movies Her wardrobe was made to dancing LAUREN BACALL (1924 - 2014) Distinctive look: know for her “look" - arched brows, a tilted head, and a sultry gaze; Bacall's style was a combination of effortless elegance and subtle edginess. Her sophisticated style, including high-waisted trousers, tailored suits, and sleek blouses, set her apart from the glamourized Hollywood aesthetic from the 1940s ROBERT PIGUET (1898 - 1953) He trained Dior Maison Piguet 1933-1951 Born in Switzerland Paris-based fashion designer Originally trained to be a banker (father's trade). Piguet preferred fashion design, much to his father's disapproval Went to Paris in 1918 to pursue his vocation. He initially began working Paul Poiret then he worked at the Paris branch of Redfern Know for his easy-to-wear suits day dresses. REfinement, flair and elegance ALIX GRES (1903 - 1993) Born in Paris Initially attracted by dance and sculpture, Germaine Émillie Krebs became a milliner She started out in 1934 under nam Alix In 1935, she created her own fashion house under the name Madame Gres in the Faubourg Saint-Honore She had to leave France during the 2nd WW On her return, her house no longer belonged to her, her partner having sold it. She lost her name She founded a new company “Gres", located at 1 rue de la Paix from 1942 to 1988 1982 sells her perfume company Well knonwed for her pleating techniques The queen of the Greecian pleats The art of drapping Madame Gres used silk jersey fabric The Gres pleats: Is formed during the construction of the dress Then sewn It consists of: Reducing a 280cm wide strip of fabric to 7cm by creating multiple tight folds The Gres pleats: Is for