Evolution of the Philippine Costume PDF

EVOLUTION OF THE PHILIPPINE COSTUME Week 2 Prepared by: Prof. Jontie Martinez  PRE-COLONIAL PHILIPPINE CLOTHING No record exists of the first appearance of a distinct nativ...

EVOLUTION OF THE PHILIPPINE COSTUME Week 2 Prepared by: Prof. Jontie Martinez  PRE-COLONIAL PHILIPPINE CLOTHING No record exists of the first appearance of a distinct native costume of the Philippines. Clothing complimented the hunting and gathering culture, as well as the warm climate of the islands. Before the arrival of the Spaniards, pre-colonial Philippines was teeming with foreign influences resulting from centuries of trade from neighboring Asian countries. 7/1/24 2 THE “BAHAG” (LOINCLOTH) Worn by men throughout pre-colonial Philippines Originally a length of beaten bark or plain woven fabric measuring 4 or 5 meters long and less than a meter wide The ends hanging down were called the WAYAWAY- AMPIS (front) and PAKAWAR (back). They were sometimes decorated with fancywork called GOWAT, and 3-strand cords called LUBITAN. 7/1/24 3  THE “BAHAG” To wear the bahag, one end was held against the chest while the other passed between the legs, pulled up between the buttocks, and wrapped around the waist. The bound front flap then hangs down to become the WAYAWAY-AMPIS, and the other end was knotted behind and let fall as the PAKWAR. The AMPIS should always be longer than the PAKWAR. During mourning, the bahag drags to the ground and is called the WATID. 7/1/24 4  PINTADOS Found in the islands of Cebu, Bohol, the eastern parts of Negros, Samar, Leyte and the Visayas Region When the Spanish colonizers arrived, they called them the PINTADOS, or “The Painted Ones.” They wore the bahag to show off their tattoos that indicate rank and prestige. The bahag was wider and longer compared to those worn in the Northern Region (Zambales & Cagayan Valley), most probably influenced by the Indian garment DHOTI-SALWAR. 7/1/24 5 PINTADOS Their tattoos were a public testimony inscribed onto their flesh. For men, they recounted acts of combat, bravery & strength; the more tattooed the warrior, the more revered he was. For women, these were symbols of beauty & fertility. Designs were inspired by nature, or shapes like zigzags, dots, diamonds and lines, often drawn to highlight the sinews and contours of the body. 7/1/24 6  Men also wore a blanket or a MEN’S PRE-COLONIAL length of cloth as a garment. CLOTHING ALAMPAY – wrapped around the shoulders or over the head like a cape TAMPI – simply wrap it around the hips and tied with a knot (most popularly known now as the MALONG) PUDONG – turban-like headdress; commoners wore rough abaca cloth, while warriors who have killed an enemy wore a red one called MAGALONG. 7/1/24 7  THE “BARO” Shirt worn during pre-colonial times, made of rough cotton cloth called KANGA Collarless, reaching below the waist, with long sleeves, and had an opening in front Color indicated man’s social status: red for the chief & the bravest, black and/or white for the commoners. Worn with the bahag When the Spanish arrived, they called the shirt the CAMISA DE CHINO. 7/1/24 8  CAMISA DE CHINO Made of translucent material such as sinamay, cotton or pinya cloth The colonists allowed only see-through shirts to make sure the natives were not hiding weapons underneath Shirts were believed to have originated in China (“de Chino”) This would later evolve into the BARONG TAGALOG, with the addition of the collar, cuffs and elaboration. When the Camisa de Chino is worn under the Barong Tagalog, it signified that the wearer belonged to the upper class and had to be treated with respect. 7/1/24 9  MORE MEN’S GARMENT DURING THE PRE-COLONIAL PERIOD SAOB-SAOB – ankle-length garment, with or without sleeves, that opened in the front LAMBONG- cloak-like garment with 2 very wide openings for the arms; usually black, used for mourning SINULOG – short jacket, tailored to the body; could have originated in Indonesia or Malaysia, or from the SININA of China 7/1/24 10  PRE-COLONIAL WOMEN’S CLOTHING THE TAPIS - Worn by women across the archipelago even before the Spaniards arrived - A length of cloth wrapped around the woman’s body, around the waist, or above or below the bust, and securely tied in place by the knotted ends of the material - Simple, effective means of shielding the body from heat or harsh weather - Similar to the KEMBAN of Malaysia or PHA BIANG of Thailand & Cambodia; fit for South East Asia’s tropical climate 7/1/24 11 THE “TAPIS” OTHER TERMS FOR THE TAPIS: HABUL – “woven stuff” from the Visayas HALONG – made from abaca HULUN – sash-like wrap-around BALIKUSKUS – From Panay & the Tagalog region, blankets wrapped around like a skirt 7/1/24 12  RELIGIOUS IMPLICATIONS AGAINST THE TAPIS When the Spanish arrived, they discouraged the natives from the wearing of the tapis because they felt it was immodest. The material then was flimsy, and when wrapped tightly around the female body, it was revealing, especially when it became wet. When Christianization was introduced, the lowland people embraced their conservative nature & culture, but the tapis was still worn, but only for more itimate settings, such as their home. 7/1/24 13 THE BARO/BAYO/BADU A simple, collarless blouse with long sleeves, usually in woven material like cotton Worn on top of the tapis This will evolve into the BARO upon colonization. 7/1/24 14  The Tagalogs and Visayans from the upper class wore the BARU in silk with a skirt in a matching color, usually in in bright shades, while those in the lower caste wore a BARU made from pounded white bark and a florr- length wrap-around skirt. 7/1/24 15 PRE-COLONIAL JEWELRY Wearing GOLD JEWELRY in precolonial Philippines was a mark of distinction. Warrior chiefs wore gold leg bands, neck ornaments and a headdress with intricate designs of birds and human beings. 7/1/24 16 THE BOLINAO SKULL A notable archeological discovery found in Pangasinan showed fish scale-like gold patterns smelted on the teeth of a noble warrior 7/1/24 17 GOLD JEWELRY Earrings, headbands, diadems and belts made of hammered sheets of gold were also worn, rendered with the NAGA, a half-human, half- snake deity of Hindu & Buddhist origins. The art of FILIGREE was favored during the pre-Hispanic times, with artisan twists and coils in fine gold wires created intricate lace-like motif. 7/1/24 18  Indigenous tribes were also known for jewelry made of precious stones like carnelian, agate and pearls, fastened into necklaces, bangles, armlets and headbands called CALOMBIGAS. 7/1/24 19 SPANISH COLONIZATION 1521 marked the beginning of the Hispanization of the archipelago. From hereon, our costume is strongly influenced by our colonizers, instilling in us not only their religion, customs and culture, but our way of dressing as well. 7/1/24 20  During the Spanish reign, clothing became a projection of rank & privileged lifestyle, and class distinctions were drawn: PENINSULARES (Spanish born in the motherland) INSULARES (Spanish born in the Philippines) INDIOS (Native Filipinos) 7/1/24 21 THE BARO’T SAYA The Spanish rule influenced Christianized women to wear an ankle-length skirt called the SAYA, and a blouse called the BARO, worn all throughout the Spanish colonization period. This is an elegant hybrid of pre- colonial and Spanish clothing styles. 7/1/24 22 BARO Made of fine fabric like pineapple cloth or cotton, it is waist length with full bell-shaped sleeves. 7/1/24 23 SAYA Made of opaque, plaid or striped cloth, or sinamay varieties, it remained unelaborated until the period of intensified global trade. 7/1/24 24 ALAMPAY A square kerchief, folded triangularly, usually made of the same fabric as the saya, worn to cover the breasts or also double as a veil. This would later evolve into the PANUELO. 7/1/24 25 THE BARO’T SAYA’S UNDERWEAR Since the baro’t saya can be a little translucent, a special kind of undergarment is worn underneath it. The KORPINYO is worn under the baro, and the ENAGUAS under the saya. Both light-colored and finely- detailed, the undergarments allow another layer of design under the sheer baro’t saya. 7/1/24 26 THE “BALINTAWAK” A more relaxed variant of the “baro’t saya” Worn during picnics and other jaunts to the countryside Deeply associated with ANTIPOLO, a favorite summer destination for summer dwellers Characterized by a short, plaid skirt, a blouse with puffy lantern sleeves and a low-cut bodice with ornate embroidery Epitomizes Filipino gaiety, light heartedness and a costuming sense of rural roots, signaling song, dance & festivity 7/1/24 27 In Conclusion… The Baro’t Saya, stunning with its bold shape and elaborate details, is more than a dress. It’s a symbol of the Filipina. The dress is as confident & striking, as it is graceful and refined – an excellent representation of what a modern Filipina should strive to embody. 7/1/24 28  MODERN TAKES ON THE “BAHAG” 7/1/24 29 MODERN TAKES ON THE “TAPIS” 7/1/24 30 MODERN TAKES ON THE “CAMISA DE CHINO” 7/1/24 31  MODERN TAKES ON THE “BARO’T SAYA” 7/1/24 32  MODERN TAKES ON THE “BALINTAWAK” 7/1/24 33 REFERENCES Dalunag, Mi Jerica Joyce (2016). Baro’t Saya: The Philippines’ National Costume. In Word Press. Retrieved from https://speakoutyoumind.wordpress.com/2016/04.22/first- blog-post Everything You Should Know About The Baro’t Saya (2021). In Bayo. Retrieved from https://bayo.com.ph/2021/05/14/everything- you-wanted-to-know-about-the-barot-saya/ Gonzales, Gino (2022). The Philippine Dress: 500 Years of Straddling Polarities. In Arts of Asia. Retrieved from https://artsofasia.com/the-Philippine-dress-500-years-of- straddling-polarities Pre-Colonial Traditional Clothing (2012). In The Pinay Writer. Retrieved from https://pinoy- culture.tumblr.com/post/30479656512/pre-colonial- traditional-clothing-note-though 7/1/24 34  PLATE #1: Marina Summers is competing again in “Drag Race: Global All Stars, Icons & Legends 27” in the year 2034. She wants her entrance look to be a dragged up, futuristic take on the Baro’t Saya but still keeping the essential elements of the Philippine costume, and she commissioned you to design it. Illustrate in full color what your design will be and describe it in a short paragraph. 7/1/24 35