Stocks and Sauces PDF

STOCKS AND SAUCES CHAPTER 8 Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS AND SAUCES • French word for stock is fond, meaning “foundation” or “base.” – This “foundation” indicates the importance of stocks. – The ability to prepare good stocks is the most basic of all culi...

STOCKS AND SAUCES CHAPTER 8 Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS AND SAUCES • French word for stock is fond, meaning “foundation” or “base.” – This “foundation” indicates the importance of stocks. – The ability to prepare good stocks is the most basic of all culinary skills. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS • Stock: A clear, thin unthickened liquid flavored by soluble substances extracted from: – Meat, poultry, or fish – Meat, poultry, or fish bones – Vegetables – Seasonings Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS • The objective in preparing stocks is to: – Select the proper ingredients. – Extract the flavors we want. – Combine the correct ingredients with the correct procedure. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) • Bones are the major ingredient of stocks (except water, of course). • Most of the flavor and body of stocks are derived from the bones. • Vegetable stocks draw their flavor entirely from vegetables. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Bones The kinds of bones used determine the kind of stock: • Chicken stock: made from chicken bones. • White stock: made from beef or veal bones. • Fish stock: made from fish bones and trimmings left over after filleting. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Bones (cont’d) •Connective tissues (called collagen) break down and form gelatin. This gives body to a stock. •A well-made stock thickens or even solidifies when chilled. •Cartilage is the best source of gelatin in bones. •Younger animals have more cartilage than mature animals •Bones with lots of cartilage, used in stock-making: – Knuckle bones – Neck bones – Shank bones Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Meat • Rarely used in stock-making because of its cost. • Chicken hearts and gizzards are often used in chicken stock. • Broth is a flavorable liquid produced as a result of simmering meat or poultry. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Mirepoix • Mirepoix celery: : A combination of onions, carrots, and – White mirepoix: parsnips are sometimes substituted for carrots. – Used when it is necessary to keep the stock as colorless as possible. – Usually for white beef or veal stock and fish stock. – Celery root may be substituted for celery. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Acid Products • Acids help dissolve connective tissues. • Tomato products contribute flavor and some acid to brown stocks. – Too much tomato can make the stock cloudy. • Wine is occasionally used, especially for fish stocks. Its flavor contribution is probably more important than its acidity. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Seasonings and Spices •Salt is usually not added as stocks are reduced, concentrated, and combined with other ingredients. •Herbs and spices are usually tied in a cheesecloth bag called a sachet d’épices (French for “spice bag”). •The sachet is tied by a string to the handle of the stockpot so it can be removed easily at any time. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Seasonings and Spices (cont’d) •Bouquet garni : an assortment of fresh herbs and other aromatic ingredients tied in a bundle with string. – Contains pieces of leek and celery, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and parsley stems. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Seasonings and Spices (cont’d) – The following seasonings, in varying quantities, are commonly used for stocks: • Thyme • Parsley stems • Bay leaves • Cloves, whole • Peppercorns • Garlic (optional) Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) • Seasonings and Spices (cont’d) – Onions for Flavoring • Oignon piqué : A whole, peeled onion onto which a bay leaf is attached by a whole clove. • Oignon brûlé : French for “burnt onion.” At times, it is added to brown stock to give color as well as flavor. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Ingredient Proportions – Cooks use ratios to help them remember the basic proportions, as follows: • Bones: 80 percent • Mirepoix: 10 percent • Water: 100 percent Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Ingredients for Vegetable Stocks • The basic ingredients for vegetable stocks are: – Vegetables – Herbs and spices – Water – Wine (sometimes) Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS PROCEDURES Blanching Bones • The purpose of blanching bones is to rid them of the impurities that cause cloudiness. • The bones of young animals, especially veal and chicken, are highest in impurities that cloud and discolor stocks. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. PROCEDURE PREPARING WHITE STOCK Step 1 Step 2 Place the bones in a stockpot and cover with cold water. Skim the scum from the surface regularly. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. PROCEDURE PREPARING WHITE STOCK (CONT’D) Step 3 Step 4 Add white mirepoix to the pot. Add a sachet d’épices. Tie the sachet to the pot handle so it may be retrieved easily. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. PROCEDURE PREPARING BROWN STOCK Step 1 Step 2 Roast the bones in a moderately hot oven until well browned. Place the bones in a stockpot and add the appropriate amount of water. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. PROCEDURE PREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONT’D) Step 3 Step 4 Brown the mirepoix. Add the browned mirepoix to the stockpot. Deglaze the roasting pan with water. Add the liquid to the stockpot. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. PROCEDURE PREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONT’D) Step 5 Step 6 Simmer slowly for 8 hours. Strain the stock through a china cap lined with cheesecloth. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. PROCEDURE PREPARING FISH STOCK Step 1 Step 2 Sweat the mirepoix and fish bones in butter. Add the white wine and bring to a simmer. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. PROCEDURE PREPARING FISH STOCK (CON’T) Step 3 Step 4 Skim as necessary to remove scum. Strain through a china cap lined with cheesecloth Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS PROCEDURES (CONT’D) Remouillage and Other Stock-Related Procedures •Remouillage : A stock made from bones that were already used once to make stock. – The literal meaning of the French term is “rewetting.” •Dashi: Basic Japanese stock. – Quickly and easily made from only three ingredients: • Water • Shaved, dried bonito, called katsuobushi • Dried seaweed or kelp, called kombu Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS REDUCTIONS AND GLAZES • Reduction: Stocks that are concentrated by boiling or simmering them to evaporate part of the water. • Glaze or glace: A stock reduced until it coats the back of a spoon. – Meat glaze, or glace de viande – Chicken glaze, or glace de volaille – Fish glaze, or glace de poisson Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS CONVENIENCE BASES • Judging Quality – Bases vary greatly in quality. The best ones are composed mainly of meat extracts. – Many bases are made primarily from salt. – Read the list of ingredients. • Using Bases – Using bases requires taste and judgment. • Always taste and evaluate as you cook. – There is no substitute for a well-made stock. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. SAUCES UNDERSTANDING SAUCES • Sauce: A flavorful liquid, usually thickened, used to season, flavor, and enhance other foods. • A sauce adds the following qualities to foods: – Moistness – Flavor – Richness – Appearance (color and shine) – Interest and appetite appeal Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. SAUCES UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D) The Structure of Sauces • The major sauces are made of three kinds of ingredients: – A liquid, the body of the sauce – A thickening agent – Additional seasoning and flavoring ingredients Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. SAUCES UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D) The Structure of Sauces (cont’d) •Liquid – Leading sauces or mother sauces • White stock (chicken, veal, or fish): for velouté sauces • Brown stock: for brown sauce or espagnole • Milk: for béchamel • Tomato plus stock: for tomato sauce • Clarified butter: for hollandaise Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS AND SAUCES UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D) Thickeners – Roux : A cooked mixture of equal parts by weight of fat and flour. – Beurre manié : A mixture of equal parts soft, raw butter and flour worked together to form a smooth paste. – Liaison : A mixture of egg yolks and cream, used to enrich and lightly thicken a sauce or other liquid. Roux Liaison Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. STOCKS AND SAUCES FINISHING TECHNIQUES • Reduction concentrates flavor, adjusts textures, and adds new flavors. • Straining removes lumps. • Deglazing is swirling liquid in pan to dissolve cooked particles. • Heavy cream used to give flavor and richness to sauce. • Monter au beurre is to “finish with butter.” – Add a few pieces of softened butter to the hot sauce. – Swirl them in until melted. – The sauce should then be served immediately. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. SAUCES SAUCE FAMILIES Leading Sauces •Liquid + Thickening agent = Leading sauce •Leading sauce + Additional flavorings = Small sauce •Standards of quality for sauces: – Consistency and body – Flavor – Appearance Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. SAUCES PRODUCTION • Béchamel: – Small sauces: • Cream Sauce • Mornay Sauce • Cheddar Cheese Sauce • Mustard Sauce • Soubise Sauce • Nantua Sauce Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. SAUCES PRODUCTION (CONT’D) • Velouté: – Suprême sauce – Allemande sauce – White Wine sauce – Small Sauces: • Poulette, Aurora, Hungarian, Curry, Mushroom, Albufera/Ivory, Bercy, Herb, Normandy, Anchovy, Shrimp, Venetian, Horseradish Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. SAUCES PRODUCTION (CONT’D) Espagnole or Brown Sauce •Hearty, flavorful sauce •Fond lié or jus lié •Demi-glace •Small Sauces: • • • • • • • Bordelaise Marchand de Vin Robert Charcutière Chasseur Diable (Deviled) Madeira • • • • • • Périgueux Poîvrade Port Wine Italian Sauce Mushroom Bercy Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. • Piquant • Lyonnaise • Bigarade SAUCES PRODUCTION (CONT’D) Tomato Sauce – Small Sauces: • Portugaise (Portuguese) • Spanish • Creole Butter Sauces • • • • Melted butter • Meunière butter Clarified butter • Compound butter Beurre noisette • Beurre blanc Beurre noir Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. SAUCES PRODUCTION (CONT’D) • Hollandaise and Béarnaise • Hollandaise Sauce • Béarnaise Sauce • Small Sauces: – Maltaise – Mousseline – Foyot – Choron Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.