Regina Chapter 1 Quiz (1) PDF

( Jb; ec Thai ICS To understand the textile industry as the I primary } material source for v the apparel, interior furnishings, and industrial products industries. > To know the various segments of the textile industry....

( Jb; ec Thai ICS To understand the textile industry as the I primary } material source for v the apparel, interior furnishings, and industrial products industries. > To know the various segments of the textile industry. > To be able to follow the channels of distribution of textile products. To be aware of the careers requiring a professional knowledge of textiles. v / re) fy = ‘ Aey - JSerms Kelated to Sexttles apparel greige Overseas agent retail converter importer over-the-counter sewn products dyeing industrial products pound goods shorts environment interior furnishings printing sourcing fabric jobber private label vertically integrated mill Fair Trade market planning put-up yarn fiber mill recycling finished goods overrun remnants  he basic needs of people are food, clothing, and manufacturing and distribution segments before culmi- shelter. The textile industry is intertwined with all nating at the retail consumer level. three of these essential sectors of our lives. Fabrics are used in the food industry to provide plant covers, absor- bent liners in prepackaged meats, and reusable cloth Ypternational Srade bags. The use of fabrics in clothing is well known for International trade in textiles and apparel is not a its warmth, protection, and aesthetic properties. Fabrics new situation. The silk trade from China through the also provide for shelter in the form of tents, building Middle East to Italy by way of camel caravans was a materials, and awnings. Most people don't realize how major international trade route of centuries ago. The much further intertwined with our lives textiles really first ships that arrived in the Americas included textiles are. In fact, textiles touch nearly every facet of life, from as items for trading with the natives living there. One the carpeting we walk on, to the bandages we use for reason the South lost the Civil War was because of the injuries, to the conveyer belt used to move items in a significant loss of revenue from the interrupted cotton factory, to the textiles used in space vehicles orbiting trade with Great Britain. the earth. In the mid-twentieth century, the vast majority of Textiles were also important in ancient times. Pre- textile and apparel products in the United States and historic man wove fishing nets, the ancient Egyptians the developed nations were produced within the United wrapped their rulers in hand-woven linens at the time States. Now many of these products have changed from of their burials, and the Chinese wove beautiful silk fab- domestic to international to multinational sources. The rics over 3,500 years ago. Thus, textiles are one of the international nature of this industry has resulted in new oldest products used by mankind. centers of production challenging the old ones. The The textile industry played a significant part in the traditional labor-intensive aspect of production and the initial growth of the United States. The manufacture of low cost of entry have ensured that textiles and apparel textiles was the first craft to be successfully mechanized are established as one of the first forms of industrial in this country. The interstate commerce in cotton that activity for any emerging country in search of employ- began in the late 1700s, from the areas of cultivation in ment and economic growth. the South to the textile mills of New England, helped to After World War II, international trade agreements bind the states of the new nation together. As an indica- encouraged textile and clothing imports from many tion of the importance of the textile industry in the pre- small, underdeveloped nations to stimulate their indus- Civil War period, of the 106 manufacturing concerns trial development. But in the last 25 years, the textile in the United States in 1832 with assets over 100,000 and apparel industries in some of these countries have dollars, 88 were textile companies. become so strong that they pose a serious threat to the Textiles are often the raw materials used by other established industries of Western Europe and North industries, primarily the apparel, interior furnishings, America. Over 150 nations now send their textile and and industrial products industries. These industries in apparel goods to the United States, controlling more turn manufacture dresses, draperies, truck covers, and than 65 percent of the domestic clothing market com- countless other products for sale to department stores, bined. Imports of these products have grown so rapidly mail-order companies, and retailers. Although the textile that many domestic plants have closed and many Amer- industry is separate from these other businesses, there is ican workers have lost their jobs to foreign exporters. nevertheless strong continuing dialogue and exchange of As the international marketplace for textile prod- design ideas, marketing strategies, and quality/cost lev- ucts continues to change and evolve so does the textile els not only between the textile industry and its direct industry. Many factors contribute to the industry’s state customers (apparel, interior furnishings, and industrial of flux. Technology, the economy, the world political products industries), but also often including the retailer. environment, and local issues are all factors. Cheap For example, design ideas are often exchanged and col- labor, for example, may be less important when tech- laborated on among a mail order retailer, an apparel nology is utilized for production. Currency fluctuation, manufacturer, and a textile manufacturer. production delays, high transportation costs (charges), Figure 1.1 shows the flow and movement of how striking workers at ports, customs holdups, and political textiles reach the final retail consumer. Beginning unrest may encourage those who source fabrics to look with raw materials, the product passes through various domestically. FABRIC SCIENCE 4%  (Over-the-Counter) » —— Retailer 4 i , Non-retailer Military Wholesale Jobber Institutional t 5i Other Product Manufacturer L A > Interior Furnishings, Apparel, > Industrial A t Private & » Label extil Jobber Textile. |# , | Independent lepe Converter® e 4 i. > La Mawifachare: A t | Tent Mil Integrated and Nonintegrated' Print Plan Finishing Plant 4 Weaving, Knitting, Nonwoven g Tufting, Lace, Other Yarn Mill ra Spun, Filament, Textured, |€ >| Throwster™ Novelty si Note: Imports can enter the chart at any point Fibe and then continue in the processing sequence. rP roducer “Converters have unfinished fabric changed into Natural Manufactured finished fabric. Cotton Farmers Staple ‘Integrated mills usually purchase fiber and then Sheep Ranchers _ Filament perform all manufacturing required to produce Silk Producers Fiber a finished fabric. Others Yarn " Throwsters alter filament yarns usually by texturing or adding high twist for crepe effect. Ficure 1.3 How textiles reach the consumer. General Kelds The He ajor Texttle of Sex tile Froducts Production Segments The textile industry is segmented into three large group- The textile industry uses many different raw materials ings: Apparel, the textiles used in clothing; interior fur- and many steps in the process of manufacturing a finished nishings (also called home fashions), the textiles used textile material. Each segment in the pipeline is not only in furniture, bath, kitchen and bed; and industrial, the involved with production, but also with buying the prod- textiles used in such items as luggage, flags, boat sails, uct of a previous producer. Thus, the entire process from bandages, dust filters, and so on. The market is divided fiber to consumer (or other ultimate buyer) involves the into approximately 35 percent apparel, 35 percent inte- coordinated activities of many firms and many individu- rior furnishings, and 30 percent industrial and miscella- als within each firm. The following sections describe the neous consumer-type products. See Table 1.1 for a more major production segments, each of which is discussed in detailed listing of the items included in each grouping. much more detail later in this book. THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY [5  TaABLE1.1 Fasric ENp-Use Groupines Apparel Interior Furnishings Industrial | Sportswear Sport coats Furniture Recreation Manufacturing Tops—blouses, and suits Upholstery Backpacks plants shirts Accessories Slipcovers Luggage Conveyor belting 3 must ay zs areal Bottoms—pants, Scarves Hangings a j ao blankets shorts, skirts Handkerchiets Draperies sitiee cael Bikers / fieles so ca mountain ilters Swimwear and Slov Curtains climbing gear Polishing cloths beach wear Gloves R ; Handbags Domestics ae Civil engineering | Dresses acknacks A ; afts _ ; ai iinae Sheets Outed dined Soil-erosion fabrics Casual Hoa Pillowcases utcoor products Road construction | Evening wear aa Bedspreads Furniture reinforcing lining | Bridal wear Mak. Blankets Awnings Reservoir lining Intimate apparel oo Comforters Tents Drainage screens | Athletic0: uniforms = Duvets Boatee sails‘ D rotective; sroarments = nna a Mattress covers Aetifictal tute eg gear ee Linens Domes aver Chemical-resistant ones Sneakers sports arenas gloves Loungewear Soft shoes a loths Flags Heat-resistant suits : - Placemats é ats : Bull sisti ullet-resistant Maternity wear Napkins Meclical — | Knit wear Towels Artificial blood Biological- | Active wear Floor coverings wes eee tl | 7 andages clothing Outerwear Carpets (indoor/ Casts e Gone muiee - outdoor) asts Space suits Sweaters R Disposable sheets, Hazardous waste- Jackets gs surgical gowns, protective gear Rainwear Padding etc. i pars Miscell Hyei Transportation oats iscellan nous giene S eee ; (automobiles, Lamp shades Ts , airplanes, etc.) ADecorative : pillows ape ; Flooring prons "Vises Interior walls, ceilings, bulkheads Belts Brake linings Prices of the various fabric components (e.g., fibers Yarns and yarns) as well as fabric treatments (e.g., dyeing and Most textile materials contain yarns, which are continu- finishing) have not been included. There are too many ous threadlike strands composed of fibers that have been variables, including price fluctuations, mill efficiencies, twisted together. (Felt is an example of a material made production sources (imports), and government subsidies, directly from fibers but containing no yarns.) There are to present an accurate cost. various types of yarn, from flat and dull to slubby and lustrous. Each one could be made from different fibers. Fibers Fibers are the smallest part of the fabric. They are fine, hairlike substances, categorized as either natural or Fabrics manufactured. Cotton, which grows on a plant, and Most fabrics are made from yarns and are either woven wool, which is shorn from a sheep, are two examples or knitted. The companies that make fabric are called of natural fibers. Manufactured fibers are created from mills; Springs Global and Milliken & Company are two chemicals and include acrylic, nylon, and polyester. of the largest U.S. mills. The range of fabric types and FABRIC SCIENCE 6+ weights is tremendous, fulfilling a variety of consumer in this putup, in less than 30-yard lengths. Some fab- demands. rics, such as velvet and other plush fabrics, are usually not rolled because the resulting pressure would flatten the Dyeing and Printing surface; these fabrics are placed on a frame so that the Color is usually applied to the woven or knitted fab- surface does not come into contact with any other part tic by either dyeing or printing. Dyeing is the process of the cloth. for imparting a solid color to textiles (blue, green, red, Pieces of fabric shorter than 40 yards in length are etc.). Printing is the process of imparting designs to tex- called shorts. These pieces are usually sold in either 20- tiles (dots, florals, stripes, etc.). The purpose is to make to 40-yard pieces (called 20s to 40s), 10- to 20-yard pieces the fabric more appealing. These operations are per- (called 10s to 20s), or 5- to 10-yard pieces (called 5s to formed in dye plants or print plants, and the companies 10s). Jobbers normally are the buyers of these short pieces are called dye houses or print houses. of fabric. Remnants are usually 1- to 10-yard pieces of cloth. Finishing Pound goods are usually very short pieces of fabric (often containing pieces of less than one yard in length); they Most fabrics need additional treatments called finishes are sold by the pound and not by the yard. Fabric that before they can be used. For example, special chemicals cannot be sold in any other manner is sold this way. are used to make a fabric water-repellent and suitable These goods are bought at the buyer’s risk and receive for a raincoat. A special brushing machine is required to the lowest price. End uses include stuffing for furniture make the fuzzy surface on flannel fabrics. The processes and clothes for dolls. are done in finishing plants whose facilities are most often part of dye plants or print plants. After finished fabric has been produced, it is usu- ally used by other manufacturers to make such items as Trimary Sources blouses, draperies, tents, or automobile tires. A particular "CZ , fabric might be used for several different articles, such as of w, ad Ar LCS a dress, a shirt, and curtains. Frequently, the same fab- Whether foreign or domestic, a primary source of fabric ric that is shipped to the apparel or interior furnishings is a company that makes or creates the material. The manufacturer is also sold to a retail store for direct sale to firms in this category are mills and converters. Some of home sewers. the mills produce woven fabrics exclusively, others make only knit fabrics, and some large mills manufacture both. In the primary fabric market, most sales are based Textile Fut- Up on contracts, with shipments to be made months later. Put-up is the term used to indicate the way fabric is The converters and mills work closely with their cus- packaged when it is sold. Most fabrics sold to garment tomers’ designers and merchandisers to create designs and other manufacturers are in a rolled put-up, where and working samples. New designs created by the mills the fabric is wound around a cardboard tube. A full roll are also presented at trade shows and exhibits held in or piece of woven fabric traditionally contains from 60 many cities throughout the world. Sales of fabric either to 100 yards. Knit fabrics are usually shipped in 35- to in inventory or nearly ready for sale (called spot or 50-pound rolls, in either open-width or tubular form. nearby goods) also occur, but on a much smaller scale. With the mechanization and automation of Usually, mills and converters do not take very small larger apparel and interior furnishings manufacturers, orders; this is the function of the jobber. (See p. 8.) larger rolls of fabrics can now be handled. Thus wider widths—up to 100 inches—are becoming more com- Mills monplace. And in place of the traditional 60- to 100- A mill is a company that owns textile machinery and yard pieces, 1,000 yard pieces are becoming the norm. makes fabric. Most U.S. textile mills are located in the The wider and larger rolls result in higher efficiency for southeastern portion of the United States, with a per- the manufacturer using the fabric. centage in North Carolina, South Carolina, and Geor- Some fabrics are doubled and rolled; such fabrics are gia. Foreign mills are located throughout the world, folded in half lengthwise and then wound around a flat especially England, France, Italy, Japan, South Korea, piece of cardboard. Cloth sold to retail stores is usually India, Thailand, and China. THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY 473 te  Large textile mills are vertically integrated, mean- manufacturer or other customer, such as a retailer. The ing that they not only make the fabric, but also pro- other type, the import mill, is a foreign company that duce their own yarn and perform the finishing processes owns textile machinery and makes the fabric (or yarn) required after the fabric has been created. (However, that is then exported to the United States, and operates they do not make their own fibers.) Some mills also similarly to an American mill in selling its fabrics and manufacture and distribute apparel. Major integrated obtaining orders. U.S. textile mills (and headquarters) include Milliken & Company (Spartenburg, SC), Springs Global (Fort. : Mill, SC), and Culp, Inc. (High Point, NC). Secondary Sources The mills sell their finished fabrics to various cus- tomers. Converters, discussed in the next section, are of ‘ta DE TSS. important buyers. Apparel and interior furnishings A secondary source of fabric is a company that buys manufacturers and private label manufacturers use fab- cloth and then sells it, but such a company is not rics in making their products. Jobbers, who help dis- involved in making or creating the material. Therefore, pose of excess or surplus merchandise for the mill, are any seller of fabric other than mills and converters is another customer. Large retail stores, which in turn sell considered a secondary source. Jobbers and retail stores to the home sewer, also buy from mills. are the major secondary sources, although an apparel or interior furnishings manufacturer that has overbought Converters and wishes to sell the excess fabric is also a secondary The converter is an individual or organization that source. Textile brokers are also involved in the second- buys greige goods (that is, unfinished fabric), usually ary market. Their function is to match a textile buyer from mills, has the fabric dyed or printed and finished and a textile seller; usually, the textile broker facilitates by other companies, and then sells the finished fabric.! the exchange of goods for money and does not obtain All aspects of the fabric, including construction, design, ownership of the merchandise during the transaction. color, and finish, are determined by the converter. The converters are much smaller than the large textile mills. Jobbers The numbers of converters and converterjobbers A jobber buys from mills, converters, and garment man- are gradually decreasing and being replaced by vertically ufacturers, as well as other users. Jobbers are valuable integrated mills. Furthermore, increasing volumes of both customers of the mills and converters because they often fabrics and completed sewn products produced outside buy mill or converter fabrics that would otherwise be dif- the United States and imported have eliminated much of ficult to sell, including discontinued styles, colors, and the necessity for this type of production and distribution. mill overruns. (An overrun occurs when a mill produces Converters sell their finished fabrics to the same more dyed, printed, or finished fabric than the order customers as the mills (apparel and interior furnishings specifies. An overrun occurs for various reasons, includ- manufacturers, jobbers, and retail stores), but occasion- ing allowances for damaged yardage and short pieces ally one converter will buy from another. If, for example, a unacceptable to the customer.) The jobber also occa- converter is unable to buy sufficient fabric from the mills sionally buys fabric from users who have excess cloth, to cover a very large order, the converter will buy addi- which usually results from lower-than-anticipated sales. tional fabric elsewhere, perhaps from another converter. Jobbers periodically buy large quantities of a fabric Importers they expect to become greatly in demand in the near future. Thus, they also can be a source of hard-to-get Textile importing companies are of two types. The direct items. importer buys fabric or manufactured textile products Jobbers can often offer low prices and interesting (e.g., clothing, soft luggage, other sewn products) from fabrics, but they cannot offer continuity of a fabric. a foreign mill or other supplier and brings it into the When a company wants to reorder a specified fabric and United States. It is then sold to an American apparel color from a jobber, the jobber quite likely does not have the fabric in stock any longer and cannot obtain more. Some textile jobbers conduct business only in cur- 1. Greige (pronounced gray) goods are unfinished fabric directly from a weaving loom (or knitting machine) that must he converted to rent and regular textile lines rather than in discontinued a finished, salable condition by dyeing or printing and finishing for styles and goods that mills have found difficult to sell. crease resistance, water repellancy, or other possible effects. These jobbers purchase relatively large quantities from FABRIC SCIENCE + 8 G mills and converters and sell to either small or special- and sale in their own countries. Domestic companies ized end-user companies. For example, small entrepre- produce or buy textiles in their own countries for sale neurial companies, producing perhaps several hundred within or export outside their own countries. Domestic garments of one style for exclusive boutique sale or per- textile companies usually sell only piece goods or yarn haps a thousand specialized decorative pillows, would and not completed products, as is frequently the case for purchase their fabric from these textile jobbers. Also, the import companies. custom makers of shirts and blouses or coats and suits The textile industry of the United States is both a (custom tailors), as well as furniture reupholsterers and major import industry and a domestic industry. More custom furniture makers traditionally purchase fabrics than half of all apparel consumed in the United States from jobbers that carry regular and current style lines. is made from textiles produced outside the country and The large regional jobbers are located in major then imported by the United States, while less than fashion centers, such as New York City, Atlanta, Bos- half are produced by the domestic industry within the ton, Philadelphia, Chicago, Dallas, and Los Angeles. United States. Also, approximately 12 percent of the Additionally, there has been a significant growth in domestic industry product is exported to countries out- apparel manufacture in California. The small ones ser- side the United States. vice smaller regions, and usually smaller accounts. The import industry and the domestic industry have distinct differences with respect to market and Retail Stores management. Most companies operate as either import Home sewers purchase fabrics sold in retail stores; this or domestic enterprises. A few operate in both areas. type of sale is called an over-the-counter sale. Retail Each is explained in the following sections. stores usually have a large variety of fabrics, with a small inventory of each one. Although the consumer usually The Domestic Textile Industry purchases only several yards each time, the volume sold The U.S. textile industry is composed mainly of com- in a large store or chain is appreciable. Home sewing is panies that develop, produce, and/or distribute fabrics still big business. or textile materials. This includes yarn mills; fabric mills; companies that process fabrics, such as dyeing, Overseas Agents printing, and finishing companies; and companies that An overseas agent (sometimes called an intermediary) sell fabrics. In addition, companies that develop and is a person or company that represents an exporter or style fabrics, such as converters are included as part of importer in the countries overseas where it conducts the textile industry. Nonproduction segments include business. Having an agent in the country where busi- trade associations, textile-testing companies, and trade ness is being conducted is almost a requisite to con- publications. ducting overseas business. Agents serve their clients in The textile industry is complex, large, and diver- many ways; they have knowledge and access to local sified. Compared to many other industries, it is labor business contacts, buying sources, and customers. Addi- intensive (although the trend is toward greater auto- tionally, they understand local customs and regulations, mation), and highly competitive. The fiber that is pur and serve a myriad of tasks including translation and chased to make textiles is either grown or produced in advising their clients in proper courtesies and dress various states in the continental United States. Textile when overseas. It would be difficult to conduct over- companies convert this fiber into yarn, fabric, or fin- seas textile business, either export or import, without ished material. capable agent representation. Since the late 1980s, the U.S. domestic textile industry has been in a state of change created by the shift from what was once nearly an entirely domestic The Domestic and Ynport industry to the present large import industry. The com- petitive condition created by the growth of imports over Textile Industries the past 25 years has forced the closure of many textile producers. The surviving producers are those that have Textile companies, as primary or secondary source orga- nizations, conduct business as either domestic or import companies. Import companies produce or buy textiles 2. Exceptions are certain knitted products (hosiery, sweaters, and/or finished products (apparel, interior furnishings, T-shirts) that are produced as completed garments by domestic or industrial products) from all over the world for import producers (see Chapter 6). THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY ‘ 9 invested heavily to modernize and make production and Italy, are examples of imports that are either supe- more efficient, make specialty niche-market fabrics, and rior to domestic products or are products that the United develop export sales programs. States does not make. Textile Exports U.S. producers of most products, including textiles, DB UYING and previously found ready markets for their outputs to the large U.S. consumer-oriented, relatively rich, popula- Sellin rg Fabric tion. That changed as textile imports grew to become Fabrics are purchased either according to written specifi- a major source of apparel for American consumers. The cations or from a sample. If fabrics are bought according U.S. textile industry response to meeting this compe- to written specifications, then the seller, either foreign tition was to become more efficient, competitive, and or domestic, must ship the fabric exactly as specified. for the first time, export oriented. Major expansion in Items such as yarns per inch, width, weight, thickness, aggressive export selling and overseas market research breaking strength, and degree of colorfastness are exam- by domestic textile companies to accommodate the ples of specifications. Fabric buyers (Figure 1.2) need to tastes, styles, and cultures of foreign customers now keep careful records of these specifications for the mate- occurs continuously. Textile exports are small com- rials they are purchasing. pared to imports, but are growing. Additionally, U.S. If fabrics are purchased from a sample, the seller is textile producers are making direct investments in joint required to deliver a fabric almost identical to the sam- ventures with foreign textile producers and/or building ple because the sample is a representation of what the wholly owned overseas production facilities. buyer will later receive. A comparison check between the sample and the delivered fabric is made to ensure The Textile Import Industry that what was specified is what has been made. Have you ever shopped for clothing and observed on Fabric quality varies from mill to mill as well as labels where this blouse, that dress, this skirt, or those from country to country. Fabric buyers must be aware pants came from? Made in China, South Korea, India, of this. An importer can include a phrase in the sales Mexico, Costa Rica, Colombia, Vietnam, Indonesia and confirmation which states that the fabric will be “first so on are typical labels. Made in the United States from quality, country of origin.” This phrase does not have imported fabrics is another common label. As indicated the same meaning from one country to another or from earlier, less than half of the apparel that Americans one importer to another. wear and the fabrics that go into their manufacture are Some less-developed countries do not have a first- made in the United States. The rest is produced else- quality standard that is published by the industry or the where and imported by the United States. government. Nevertheless, some governments stamp fabric with a “chop mark” (i-e., identification mark) indi- Reasons for Imports cating that the fabric has been inspected and approved. The manufacture of textiles, and especially sewn Thus, the buyer should be familiar with the fabric qual- products, involves labor-intensive production. Most ity of the mill and/or country when purchasing. imported textile products are produced in low-wage, Most fabrics and sewn products bought as United developing countries. These countries’ low labor costs States imports are purchased by specification and and low selling prices are their competitive edges and require laboratory testing and customer approval before create high demand in the United States. Even when shipping. When fabrics are bought from sample, or weighed against the cost of transportation and the prob- where laboratory testing is not possible, the import cus- lems of lengthened delivery schedules (e.g., long lead tomer usually requires a seller to submit a piece of fabric time), difficulties in communication, occasional infe- (a minimum of 60 yards), and then a case (a minimum of rior-quality shipments, and dealing with myriad govern- 600 yards), for approval before authorizing release of the mental regulations and red tape, both U.S. and foreign, main lot of production fabric. A sample of several yards the cost advantage of imports is often sizable. Not all is never sufficient to allow an adequate evaluation of the textile imports, however, are based only on their price overall quality of a fabric. advantage. Some fabrics, such as woolens from England When fabrics are purchased as a finished goods or Scotland (Harris Tweed, for example) or silk fabric package (see p. 7), they must first be approved by from Japan, and certain finished apparel from France the buyer before proceeding to the sewn product FABRIC SCIENCE 410 3  FIGURE 1.2 Buyers of tabric need to keep careful notes and fabric samples for new and potential purchases. manufacture stage. Many of the countries that are major Frequently fashion designers or other end-product exporters to the United States possess certified textile designers work closely and collaboratively with textile laboratories that are often branches of U.S. textile test- mill designers to create specific fabrics to meet their needs. ing companies. Standardized textile laboratory tests (see This method is especially efficient when computer-aided Chapter 15) and reports are transmitted by fax or e-mail design (CAD) systems are used. A fashion designer and to the U.S. importing customer, and decision making mill designer can actually be many miles apart, even in for acceptance or rejection of the import fabric is not different countries, and collaborate on ideas by showing unduly delayed despite the distances between countries. each other computer images (transmitted by phone or Fabric is sold either as greige or as finished fabric. satellite) of fabric and apparel designs. When the design- Most mills and converters make a wide range of fabric ers agree on computer images, the designs are made into types and designs. Because no mill or converter can carry sample cuts of fabric and sewn into sample products, and a fabric line that will satisfy all fabric users, most try to finally, active orders are placed. supply a specific segment of the industry (for example, Sometimes the customer wants a design or fabric junior dresses, men’s trousers, or industrial uses). to belong exclusively to his or her company. If the yard- Fabrics presented for sale are usually shown to the age is great enough, the mill or converter may agree to end-product (apparel, furniture, etc.) manufacturer's sell the particular design or fabric only to that company, designer or to an appropriate executive involved with but normally the exclusivity is limited to a segment of the end-use item. A first sample order is placed by the the industry (e.g., men’s shirts), and the supplier's sales- buyer based on aesthetic and color appeal, but also on people are free to sell the design or fabric to companies such factors as fabric weight, yarn density (yarns per making other end uses (e.g., men’s pajamas). inch), and fiber content for several yards or enough fab- The knitting industry and the woven-goods indus- ric to make a sample sewn product item. If the interest try differ in makeup, which results in differences in remains, the manufacturer often orders enough addi- fabric distribution. Chapter 6 gives more detailed infor- tional sample yardage to make other sample articles mation about the knitting industry. that the company salespeople can show to their cus- tomers (e.g., retail stores). If the reaction is favorable, the manufacturer then places an order for the fabric. Private Label and Exclusive Brands A reorder may occur if the item made of the fabric is Very large quantities of textiles are sold directly to selling well. Once the fabric is accepted, the actual department stores, mail-order houses, or discount purchasing and follow-up are usually performed by the chains for manufacture by the retailer or a contractor piece goods buyer. into private-label clothing or other articles. Designing T BE TEATILE INDUSTRY V of the fabric and finished product is usually done by the retail designers and technical staffs employed by the retailer.’ In effect, the retailer is the manufacturer. A private label is a retail brand in which apparel or other sewn products are manufactured specifically for a retailer and sold exclusively by that retailer. An exclu- sive brand, also known as a captive brand, is a national brand with distribution through one retailer. The differ- ence is a matter of control and ownership. An example of private label is Arizona” available at JCPenney. Charter Club® and Hotel" are two private label brands developed and sold by Macy’s. Sonoma is a private label created and managed by Kohl’s. Candies is an exclusive national brand distributed only through Kohls. Private-label programs are an important part of the textile/fashion industries. Unique design not seen by every other store in the mall or city and better value than national brands are the main reasons for this growth. A substantial portion of private-label textile sales to retailers involves imported goods that use both fabrics and sewing services from sources outside the United States. In fact, import sourcing in private-label programs is so widely used that most major retailers (e.g., JCPenney, Federated Department Stores, Sears, Wal-Mart) maintain full staffs and offices in foreign production centers. Ficure 1.3 Views of the Los Angeles International Textile Show in Los Angeles, California. Markel and F- Troduchton Hlanning about six months. New fabrics are shown at fabric shows Each segment of the textile industry must plan well and exhibitions, about one year before the retail sell- ahead of the next selling season. Unless schedules are ing season begins (Figure 1.4). Apparel manufacturers maintained and deadlines met by the fiber producers, immediately begin designing their lines with these new fabric mills, and other textile companies, it may not fabrics and present their new designs at openings, trade be possible to ship products when the buyers are ready shows, and press events about six months later. The to buy. Because so many operations must be performed remaining six months of the cycle involve the apparel before finished fabric is made, a delay in any phase of the manufacturers in selling, producing, and delivering operation will extend the fiber-to-fabric time period. goods to retail stores. Market planning in textiles almost always involves long-range planning. (See Figure 1.3.) The design of Seasons woven fabrics for apparel actually begins about a year The two main retail selling seasons for apparel are fall and a half to two years before those designs will appear and spring. The former starts around August | and the on retail racks. Fabric designing for a new season takes latter begins around February 1. The other seasons are summer and holiday. Interior furnishings such as bed sheets and comforters have two retail selling seasons, 3. The design and technical staffs and facilities of many large which coincide with the apparel seasons. Furniture fab- retailers engaged in private-label production are the most extensive in the industry; they are complete and have more rics and floor coverings have one annual retail-selling current state-of-the-art design and work rooms than all but the season, which begins in September. Industrial fabrics very largest apparel manufacturers. are not seasonal items. FIT ENCE  FiGure 1.4 Textile designers and apparel designers seek out textile information, new trends, and fabric design ideas at textile shows and exhibits. F mee AP rage |. / She Onvotronment Various environmental problems relate to the textile industry, as they do to other industries. These include air and water pollution, disposal of waste products, health of workers in mills, and possible water pollution from home laundering. The textile industry, aware of these problems, takes steps to reduce the effects of pollution. Water used in production is treated (i.e. cleaned and filtered) before being discharged, toxic waste materials are disposed of in registered waste dumps, and air emissions (e.g., fumes, ash) are filtered to eliminate as much pollution as pos- sible. Some chemicals are reused and some materials FiGure 1.5 are recycled to reduce the quantity of waste produced. Recycling products is beneficial for the environment. Noise levels and the quality of air in textile mills are monitored to reduce hazards to textile workers. Recycling is a large component of the environmen- tal movement to reduce ecological damage. (See Figure fatr JSrade 1.5.) As landfill costs rise and available landfill space decreases, the pressure to increase recycling of non-haz- The term Fair Trade is used to indicate that a product ardous waste continues to mount. Recycling must be an was produced without labor exploitation, by using envi- integrated effort between consumers, retailers, manu- ronmentally sustainable practices, and that the produc- facturers, recyclers and the government. Within the ers received fair prices for their product. This term is textile industry recycled products include fibers, yarns, used especially with regard to small businesses (farms, fabric, garments, and used chemicals. The waste of one artisans, etc.) in developing countries who sell to com- company can become the raw material of another. A panies in developed countries. Traditionally, the latter much fuller discussion of the topic of eco-friendly prod- takes advantage of the former. ucts can be found in Chapter 11. Also, each chapter has There are two major international groups to which a section relating to the environment. most Fair Trade organizations worldwide belong. Their INDUSTRY memberships include organizations representing the conferences where there is public exhibition of Fair Fair Trade chain, from production to sales. The first is Trade goods, business services offered, and seminars the Fair Trade Labeling Organization (FLO) Interna- held. The Fairtrade Foundation is the British member of tional, based in Bonn, Germany. In addition to promot- FLO International. It issues a Fairtrade Mark to indicate ing Fair Trade products internationally, it also develops Fair Trade certification for products sold in the United and reviews Fair Trade standards. Products which meet Kingdom (UK). The British department store chain FLO standards are able to show the Fair Trade Organi- Marks and Spencer is a major participant in this pro- zation Mark. gram, including cotton apparel. The second is the International Federation for Fair Trade is becoming increasingly popular because Alternative Trade (IFAT). It helps to develop the mar- of the social responsibility movement (i.e., obligation ket for Fair Trade products, is a Fair Trade monitor, and to a group for their well-being). It has increased public also is an advocate for Fair Trade. It uses the FLO mark awareness of irresponsible social behavior by business to identify registered Fair Trade organizations. IFAT is firms, including labor exploitation and environmental headquartered in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. violations. Each year IFAT sponsors a World Fair Trade TransFair USA is a member of FLO and is the only Day (global) and Transfair USA sponsors a National third-party certifier of Fair Trade products in the United Fair Trade Month (U.S.). States. It audits transactions between American compa- At the present time certified Fair Trade products nies offering Fair Trade products and the international include mostly agricultural products, such as coffee, suppliers from whom they source. Licensed U.S. compa- fruit, sugar, and flowers. Cotton apparel has been certi- nies can display a Fair Trade Certified™ label. Transfair fied in Europe, etc., (e.g., Marks & Spencer in the U.K.) USA is headquartered in Oakland, CA. but not yet in the United States. Nevertheless, it is The Fair Trade Federation (FTF) is an Ameri- important to recognize the beginning of a movement can association of members committed to Fair Trade. that will definitely affect the textile industry. Headquartered in Washington, DC, it has organized Trade Shows There are many foreign textile and textile products shows. These include Interstoff (fabric exposition), Textile Connection SEHM—The Salon International de l’Habillement Masculin (men’s and boys’ fashions), Techtextil (techni- Sustainability cal textiles), Heimtextil (home textiles), and ITMA— Sustainability is a key concept for our millen- International Exposition of Textile Machinery. Major nium. It represents a philosophy that tries to domestic shows include ATME—American Textile meet the goals of three competing interests— Machinery Exhibition, IFFE—International Fashion people, business, and the planet (or nature). Fabric Exposition, and Magic International (interna- Often the benefits to one may detrimentally tional fashion sourcing show). There is also a sizable affect the other two. How then can they work number of more localized textile and textile products in harmony? trade shows organized in countries around the world. Being aware of the needs of these compet- ing interests, as well as being willing to make changes and perhaps accept a little sacrifice, is Textile Careers one answer. With eco-friendly, desirable prod- The textile industry is one of the largest and most diver- ucts being made by businesses (at a profit) and sified segments of business. As indicated earlier in this purchased by consumers, future generations chapter, nearly every country in the world is involved should be able to live well in an eco-friendly with textiles. way with the planet. The industry requires a wide range of talented Refer to Chapter 11 and The Environment people, and jobs call for a wide variety of job skills. sections in most chapters for additional details Unfortunately, many careers in textiles do not have and discussion. the visibility of designer jobs, so many people do not know they exist. Although the textile industry is a part FABRIC SCIENCE =. 14 3  TABLE 1.2 Textice Careers Examples of Companies and Organizations Employing Textile-Knowledgeable Personnel Textile Positions and Specialties Fiber companies (Dow) Administrative assistant (technical) Textile producers (Springs Global) Consultant | Textile converters Converter Apparel and interior furnishing manufacturers Coordinator-production/sales/design | (Jones Group Inc., Drexel Heritage) Education Retailers (Gap, R.H. Macy's) Environmental protection Direct merchandisers (Land’s End) Forecasting—color, trends, ete. Quality assurance testing companies (Intertek Testing) Museum curator/conservator Publications (HFN, W.W.D.) Production Colleges and secondary schools Public relations/advertising Museums Quality assurance testing Military Reporter/writer Legal firms Sales, domestic, and/or import/export Importers and exporters Sourcing specialist Government agencies (U.S. Customs Service, Specifications writer Consumer Product Safety Commission) Textile designer/colorist International consulting firms Textile purchasing agent Textile research and development of the fashion industry and relies heavily on designs The textile industry combines art, structured engi- and creative talents, it also relies on other areas such neering, technical styling, marketing, and business to as technology, merchandising, and management—to produce the correct aesthetics, performance properties, build success (see Table 1.2). and value. It is an exciting industry that can be very Many careers require textile knowledge. These lucrative and personally satisfying. are career areas for men and women equally, and many require both domestic and international travel. Because a large amount of merchandise is produced Opeakin 7 of Textiles overseas, companies are continuously needing repre- Phrases relating to textiles and textile products are con- sentatives to develop products as well as to determine value and quality. tained in everyday language. This is not surprising since the textile industry is part of everyday life. The follow- Some students may be concerned with the large ing are various examples, grouped by category: number of textiles and related products being imported. Actually, the growing volume of imports and exports, Fiber Related: foreign textiles corporations with offices and facilities in the United States, and the growth in retailer private- > = It was as smooth as silk. label programs have increased the need for trained > He pulled the wool over my eyes. textile-knowledgeable persons. Although the domestic >» He has no moral fiber. textile manufacturing sector has shrunk, significant >» He cottoned to her. management, technical, and marketing adjustments > Wait a cotton-picking minute. have been made (e.g., modernization) so that it is an efficient, modern industry. Also, the need for textile- Yarn/Thread Related: knowledgeable persons in the import sector to provide liaison and technical and management support to for > He was spinning a yarn. eign producers remains high. > | was hanging by a thread. THE FEXTILE INDUSTRY 15  His jacket is threadbare. Product Related: vywyweyY¥Tiwy? She was threading her way through a crowd. >» He tossed his hat into the ring. He had me in stitches. > He is throwing in the towel. This is the common thread. >» He received a golden parachute upon leaving. A stitch in time saves nine. > They roped me into it. Vv Construction Related: >» She was sailing along without a care. > He gave the wall a coat of paint. It was built into the fabric of society. > He was a wolf in sheep’s clothing. We were weaving through traffic. >» Every cloud has a silver lining. He was knitting up his brow. > You can't make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. My nerves are frayed. > He was sacked. It has become unraveled. > It fit me like a glove. The plan started to unravel. > He hada pocket full of miracles. List five job titles that require textile knowledge. 6. State several reasons why a company would import For each, state a brief description of the duties and textiles or textile products, State potential prob- the name of a company that would have such a lems that might result. position. (Library research required.) 7. Private labels result in the retailer becoming a man- Over the past two decades there has been a ufacturer. Explain. decrease in the quantity of apparel fabrics made in 8. List several differences U.S. buyers may encounter the United States. Why? when buying textiles made overseas rather than A curtain manufacturer wants to purchase 10,000 textiles made in the United States. yards of a printed chintz fabric. Explain whether 9. What are the differences between buying textiles any of the following resources can be used: by specification and buying by sample? a. Textile mill 10. Explain how it is possible for production to increase b. Textile converter while employment decreases. c. Jobber d. Retail fabric store 11. The textile industry faces various environmental problems. State several. State how a knowledge of textiles is of value to each of the following: the textile product manufacturer, 12. Explain how the production of an apparel article the retail store, and the customer. (e.g., pants) can be considered a globalized effect, interconnecting people around the world. Name five product categories, other than apparel and interior furnishings, in which textile materials 13. Human rights, business relationships, and the envi- are used. Indicate in what ways they are utilized. ronment should be examined with regard to fair trade practices. State an example for each. FABRIC & & EN GE 16  FABRIC SCIENCE / Swatch Kit Assignment She Sexttle Irdustz 'Y Select a fabric from the swatch kit for each end use listed below. Indicate the swatch number and the fabric name. Explain why you feel this swatch is appropriate. Use fully constructed sentences, correct spelling, and proper punctuation. > Evening wear: > Undergarments: Sweaters: Jackets: Scarves: Hats: Towels: Tablecloths: HE TEXTILE INDUSTRY