Cosmetic Product Development - Lecture 2 PDF

PHARMSCI 188 COSMETIC PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT – LEC Areas of Application for Cosmetics Czarina Dominique R. Delos Santos, RPh, MEng Lecture 2 | August 21, 2024 Prepared by: Cos...

PHARMSCI 188 COSMETIC PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT – LEC Areas of Application for Cosmetics Czarina Dominique R. Delos Santos, RPh, MEng Lecture 2 | August 21, 2024 Prepared by: CosmeThicc TOPIC OUTLINE Link to recording: https://drive.google.com/file/d/188Q-gmvJbF-wAxugtXqjn5esuoWR Areas of Application for Cosmetics 1 kfJ9/view?usp=drive_link Skin 1 Areas of Application for Cosmetics Functions of the Skin 1 Just like pharmaceuticals, it is important to understand the Anatomy of the Skin 1 structure and function of the target site of application of Layers of Epidermis 1 the cosmetic product. Types of Cells 2 Skin Skin differentiation 3 Functions of the Skin Face 3 Protective Glandular Structures 3 ○ Barrier of defense Microorganisms Lips 4 Hence, skin products are not Vermillion 4 usually sterile. Primary Goals to Maintain the Skin 4 UV rays Hands 4 We produce melanin that covers the nucleus where our DNA is. Maintenance of the Hands 4 UV radiation can cause Feet 4 mutations and irradiate the Common conditions 4 different components of the skin (e.g., ROS, radicals) which Maintenance of the Feet 4 cause skin oxidation or aging Neck 5 Dehydration Common conditions 5 Barrier against water loss Maintenance of the Neck 5 Sensory ○ There are mechanical or chemical receptors that Body 5 when exposed to the stimulus, there will be a Common Conditions 5 proper reaction. Maintenance of the Body 5 ○ Sends signal to the brain that causes reaction depending on the stimulus Nails and Cuticles 5 Thermoregulatory Common Conditions 5 ○ Sweating Maintenance of the Nails and Cuticles 5 ○ Fats/lipids aid as insulators Hair 5 ○ Shiver when cold Metabolic Layers of the Hair 5 ○ Vitamin D metabolism Common Conditions 6 Needed for proper absorption of calcium Scalp 6 Sexual signaling Common Conditions 6 ○ Appearance ○ Sense of touch Maintenance of the Scalp 6 ○ Smell Underarms 6 Apocrine sweat glands release Common Conditions 6 pheromones (cause natural smell) Maintenance of the Underarms 6 Genitalia 6 Common Conditions 7 Maintenance of the Genitalia 7 Oral Cavity 7 Common Conditions 7 Maintenance of the Oral Cavity 7 SUMMARY 8 August 21, 2024 1st SEMESTER 2024-25 | 1  Cosmetic Product Development Introduction to Cosmetic Product Development Anatomy of the Skin ○ Always exposed to friction hence the Figure 01. Parts of the skin importance having a dense composition of skin ○ The composition is made to provide thickness and strength to withstand the friction. 5. Stratum corneum Outer part of the epidermis composed of dead skin cells that serves as protection Outermost layer where most of the function of skin can be found Serves as a barrier primarily due to its brick-like structure ○ It is still possible for microorganisms to penetrate but we have immune cells Layers of the skin inside the skin that prevents them from 1. Epidermis entering the systemic circulation a. Outermost layer of the skin In between these flat dead skin cells, there are b. Mostly in contact with the cosmetic lipids which prevent the water molecules to products evaporate/escape from the skin c. Has lipids that contribute to Skin is a selective barrier due to the structure and thermoregulation composition of this layer 2. Dermis ○ E.g. Vitamin C (hydrophilic) a. Contains collagen 1. Can be formulated as an b. Not stiff emulsion to improve penetration c. Has lipids that contribute to Large particles find it difficult to enter the skin thermoregulation ○ E.g. peptides, proteins are large 3. Hypodermis molecules a. Subcutaneous layer Figure 02. Layers of the skin Goal of cosmetics: Inner layers of our epidermis up to dermis Layers of Epidermis 1. Stratum basale Live cells Single layer of cuboidal cells Connected to dermis Where the production of keratinocytes or epidermal cells starts ○ Where stem cells are found 2. Stratum spinosum Slightly flattened cells Thickest layer Types of Cells For protein synthesis responsible for the 1. Basal cells metabolism and contact/interaction between ○ The proliferative cells of the epidermis that form different skin cells the innermost layer that attaches to the basement 3. Stratum granulosum membrane. Around three to five layers of flattened cells ○ Where cell turnover starts, going to the upward Terminal differentiation layers. ○ Almost dead cells ○ [Stratum basale] Produces lipid-rich material that coat/envelope the 2. Spinous cells different skin cells until they die ○ The first differentiated layers of the epidermis. ○ Makes the uppermost layer of skin They are post-mitotic and enriched in waterproof desmosomes. ○ Covers the water content from lower ○ Desmosomes are adherent glycoprotein discs that layers bind keratinocytes to each other. ○ Creates a barrier that prevents water Point of contact or communication of our from easily evaporating from the skin cell SG1, SG2, SG3 Adhesive that binds the skin cells 4. Stratum lucidum together Translucent, clear layer of the skin ○ Hemidesmosomes are adherent glycoprotein Densely packed with keratin half-discs that bind keratinocytes to the basement Can be found in the palms of the hands and the membrane between the stratum basale and the soles of the feet dermis. BSPS 2020 2  Cosmetic Product Development Introduction to Cosmetic Product Development Different layers in stratum granulosum ○ SG1 ○ SG2 ○ SG3 In between different layers of the stratum granulosum, the intercellular space is in aqueous environment inside the tight junctions. Outside of the tight junctions, there is still a water environment. The pH of the skin depends on the substances dissolved in the water environment. ○ There is pH gradient from the stratum basale to stratum corneum. pH of skin is slightly acidic (outer layer); inner layers have ○ [Stratum spinosum] neutral pH 3. Granular cells Gradient of pH activates skin differentiation ○ Differentiated cells of the epidermis that contain ○ LEKTI (inhibitor protein) is responsible for the keratohyalin granules that contain precursors for activation of KLKs. the cornified envelope. ○ KLKs (enzyme) are responsible for the ○ These cells form tight junctions that provide some desquamation of the outer layer of the skin. of the barrier activity of the epidermis. The pH of cosmetic products is important since we do not 4. Keratinocytes want to disturb the pH of the skin. ○ Living cells in the epidermis, containing keratin 5. Corneocytes Face ○ Dead keratinocytes, in the stratum corneum Anterior hairline, stops at the ears, and is bounded by the Skin differentiation lateral jawline and chin Contains all glandular structures of the body Has hair ○ Eyelashes, brows, mustache, beard A transitional skin ○ There is movement involved ○ Contains glandular structures Can be afflicted by a variety of skin diseases Thinnest skin of the body (thinnest are eyelids, thickest on the side of the nose and top of the lips) ○ Easily injured, irritated Ready penetration of allergens and irritants ○ Easily healed Non-weight bearing, no excessive movement Movement: talking, smiling Numerous follicular structure ○ Eyebrows ○ Eyelashes ○ Beard and mustache ○ Fine vellus hair Affects how smooth your skin appears Some people shave their facial hair ”Pore” ○ Aka hair follicle ostia ○ The follicular structures are the transition between the skin on the surface of the face and the ostia, or openings, that lead down into the follicle itself and the associated sebaceous or oil glands ○ If the shedding of the skin is not appropriate, it can trap dead skin cells which results in a conducive environment for microorganisms → irritation/breakouts ○ Acne — caused by excessive oil production → Skin continuously differentiates and shed dead skin cells trapped in the pores → conducive environment for Cell differentiation and continuous cell turnover starts from microorganisms the basement membrane to the stratum corneum. Sebum is the oil of the body that lubricates and protects The skin differentiation is triggered in the stratum the skin surface granulosum. BSPS 2020 3  Cosmetic Product Development Introduction to Cosmetic Product Development ○ A food supply for bacteria, such as Primary Goals to Maintain the Lips Propionibacterium acnes, and fungal elements, Prevent infection such as Pityrosporum species ○ Since the lips are thin, it can easily break By-products or waste products cause ○ We want to keep the vermillion intact inflammation Moisturizers (Lip balm) ○ When there is acne, there is appearance of pus Sunscreens due to migration of white blood cells to fight Cleansing infection ○ Wash with the face ○ Oral cavity hygiene Glandular Structures Eccrine Glands Hands ○ Produces sterile watery liquid associated with the Movement maintenance of the body temperature Express affection ○ Face sweating occurs in response to emotion and Part of the body that most frequently touches the outside the ingestion of spicy food world Because of different neural control than ○ Vector for infection that associated with thermoregulation Experiences considerable chemical and physical trauma Apocrine Glands Two different skin surface ○ Produce a scented sweat that is unique to each ○ Dorsal and palmar surface individual Made up of tiny muscles and bones This uniqueness allows certain perfumes ○ Movement and agility/flexibility to smell differently on each individual Presence of sweat glands because the perfume will mix with the Palms scented sweat which will then produce a ○ “Thick” skin varying smell Presence of stratum lucidum ○ Uniquely located around the eyes ○ Translucent and hairless ○ Lacks oil glands Lips ○ Abundant sweat glands Emotional control Figure 03. Anatomy of the lips It does not function optimally if the palms are wet. ○ Calluses Retained layers of keratin Way to protect the palm from further damage or friction Already dehydrated and is inflexible thus easy to be injured ○ Common conditions Hand eczema Palm psoriasis Palmar hyperhidrosis Excessive sweating of the palm Dorsum ○ ”Thin skin” ○ Easily photoaged (next to facial skin) Lips have different characteristics than the rest of facial Loss of dermal strength and skin skin elasticity Structure that surrounds the oral aperture Exposed and affected by UV light Eating, speaking, showing affection (kissing) ○ Common conditions Loss of elasticity Vermillion Irregular pigmentation (indication of skin The red part of the lips damage due to UV light) It is covered with a specialized stratified squamous Lentigines epithelium, which is in continuity with the oral mucosa of Idiopathic guttate the gingivolabial groove hypomelanosis ○ Not well-developed cells unlike the stratum Easily injured and bruised since it is thin corneum, hence, different in appearance than the skin rest of the opaque facial skin ○ Appears red due to blood vessels underneath the Maintenance of the Hands thin and translucent layer of skin Frequent cleansing Transitional skin ○ Antibacterial cleansers Moist mucosal skin ○ To avoid infections Like the rest of the skin, it can change through time with Moisturization age (change in shape and thickness) ○ Lotion BSPS 2020 4  Cosmetic Product Development Introduction to Cosmetic Product Development Frequent moisturization is necessary due Resembles chicken skin because the to exposure to friction and chemicals lower dermal oil glands become more ○ Chemicals are “drying” to the skin (e.g., laundry visible as little tiny yellow dots agents) The skin becomes thinner thereby making the dermis Feet underneath more visible. Locomotion “Red neck” ○ Point of contact of our body and earth Thin skin shows the underlying Constantly bear weight blood vessels Competitive athletics Allergy due to fragrance Self-expression (dance) “Razor burn” from shaving Two different skin surface ○ Inflammation of hair follicle opening ○ Dorsal and plantar surface Made up of tiny muscles and bones Maintenance of the Neck ○ Movement and agility Cleansing Presence of sweat glands Moisturization Plantar surface Sun protection ○ “Thick skin” ○ When applying sunscreen, always remember to ○ Translucent, hairless put some on the neck Stratum lucidum Proper shaving (for males) ○ Lacks oil glands ○ For prevention of razor burns ○ Abundant sweat glands Resiliency and movement decrease when Body wet Back, chest, arms, and legs Thicker skin (compared to facial and neck skin) Common conditions ○ Thickest skin: upper back Infection Thickness of the skin on upper back is ○ Moist, warm, dark environment of feet when due to the need to sustain pulling and wearing shoes twisting movements from arm motion ○ Foot infection for patients with diabetes mellitus Does not heal well and is a common site Eczema of unsightly scars Hyperhidrosis Not a big issue with children as Corns and calluses they heal quicker (skin function ○ Calluses has not yet matured) Common in areas exposed to friction Also prone to pigmentation (side of the foot, under the foot) aside from scars ○ Corn ○ Due to aging of the Bony structure and usually smaller than skin (normal skin calluses function is weakening) Can be more painful than calluses Less presence of oil glands This makes careful cleanser Maintenance of the Feet selection and the use of Cleansing moisturizers important ○ Infection One function of oil production is ○ Malodor to moisturize the skin Moisturization ○ Less oil glands means Wearing of clean socks and shoes less moisturization ○ To prevent infection Cleansers that are high in detergent/soap content should Neck not be chosen since they cause Highly mobile skin the skin to dry Underlying structures: blood and nerve supply to the head It is recommended to use lotion Transition skin of thin facial skin and thick skin of upper all over the body in order to chest and the back moisturize the skin Thin vellus hair (female), fully mature hair (male) ○ However, skin ○ Prone to high rate of sebum production → acne moisturization is not formation reliant on moisturizing ○ More hair, more prone to sebum production products only ○ It is important that Common conditions people also drink Photodamage ample amounts of ○ Poikiloderma - thinned skin due to lost dermal water per day collagen Arms and legs ○ Numerous oil glands ○ Presence of hair BSPS 2020 5  Cosmetic Product Development Introduction to Cosmetic Product Development Wounds → infection → acne/pustules ○ Moisturizers are not only for the nail plate but also for the surrounding skin Common Conditions ○ The nails are nonliving so any dehydration damage Eczema (dry skin) inflicted is permanent ○ Drying due to overbathing and excessive use of ○ Remoisturizing the nails can be minimally cleansing products enhanced with urea and lactic acid, which A usual problem with Filipinos, as it is increase the water binding sites on the nail keratin, common practice to take a bath everyday but their effect is temporary until the next hand (even twice a day) washing Depending on what bathing products are Urea and lactic acid are hygroscopic used, it is possible to cause the materials that attract water to itself overdrying of skin Nail moisturizers only elicit temporary There should be a careful balance effects until the next handwashing between cleansing/removing enough bacteria to prevent disease and body Hair odor while leaving the skin undamaged Layers of the Hair Maintenance of the Body Moisturization Figure 05. Layers of the hair Sun protection ○ Some body lotions also have SPF ○ There are sunscreens products that are specifically intended to protect the body with higher SPF Nails and Cuticles Nail is a thin plate of nonliving keratin designed to protect the tip of the finger and toes ○ Produced by a group of cells designated as the nail matrix that lies approximately one-quarter inch below the visible nail The nail plate acts as a: ○ Protective shield for the fingertips Cuticle ○ Assists in grasping and manipulating small ○ Outermost part which influences the surface objects properties ○ Used for scratching, grooming, and cosmetic ○ Has important contribution to the many physical adornment properties of the hair Barrier against external aggressions (e.g., Figure 04. Anatomy of a Nail water penetration) Mechanical properties (e.g., bending) ○ Covers the cortex ○ Reflects the condition of the hair (e.g., frizziness, split ends) Cortex ○ Constitutes 80% of the hair ○ Cortical cells Different protein composition is *The cuticle has some form of skin surrounding the nail produced per kind of cortical cells Depending on the protein produced, the Common Conditions sulfur composition varies (from Nail abnormalities and disease are extremely hard to treat sulfur-containing amino acids) because the visible nail cannot be repaired The sulfur content of hair ○ The visible nail is already “dead,” hence, only the determines the curliness of the growth of new nail can be influenced hair The creation of a new nail to replace a damaged nail is a Influence on the hair properties (hair long process requiring patience before the effects of curliness and strength) successful treatment are visible ○ Pigment ○ In most individuals, it takes six months to grow a Melanin, produced by melanosomes, are new fingernail; it takes one year to grow a new concentrated in this area of the hair toenail Long-lasting hair dye should reach the cortex Maintenance of the Nails and Cuticles Medulla Moisturization ○ Innermost layer, near the hair bulb ○ Holds moisture ○ Usually absent in human hair BSPS 2020 6  Cosmetic Product Development Introduction to Cosmetic Product Development Maintenance of the Scalp Common Conditions Cleanliness Split ends ○ Prevent fungal and bacterial infection Frizziness ○ Removal of excess skin scale ○ Loosen shedding hair Scalp ○ Important not to strip the hair of natural oils so as The soft tissue that covers the cranial vault (cranium) to prevent dryness The region bordered anteriorly by the human face, and Use of products that will also not affect the hair laterally and posteriorly by the neck, and extends from the ○ Maintain the biofilm of sweat, sebum, and superior nuchal lines and occipital turbulences to the organisms in balance suborbital foramen Area where hair can grow Underarms Barrier that defends the body from foreign irritation An intertriginous site ○ Intertriginous = with friction; body areas where Figure 06. Layers of the scalp two skin surfaces meet ○ Other examples: upper thighs and double chins ○ Prone to moisture retention, skin movement, and warmth Presence of hair follicles Presence of sweat glands: both eccrine and apocrine glands Common Conditions Bacterial infections ○ Common CA: streptococcal and staphylococcal infections ○ Impetigo (skin) ○ Folliculitis (hair) Intertrigo ○ Growth of yeast and fungus due to the warm, moist area of the armpit The scalp has 5 layers ○ Overhydration due to sweat from eccrine glands ○ Skin → skin barrier is damaged ○ Connective Tissue ○ Aponeurosis Tough layer of dense fibrous tissues Maintenance of the Underarms ○ Loose areolar tissue Elimination of sweat ○ Periosteum ○ Erratum: not complete elimination of sweat since Outermost layer of the scalp/bone in our it is a physiological mechanism for head thermoregulation Numerous hair follicle However, sweat contains waste products Abundant sweat and sebum glands → good environment for microbial ○ Prone to dandruff proliferation Abundant blood vessels and neurons ○ Cleansing ○ Antiperspirant/deodorants Common Conditions Dandruff Genitalia ○ Mild flaking Female Genitalia ○ Seborrheic dermatitis ○ Several skin interfaces ○ Due to Malassezia globosa Hair bearing skin (mons pubis) ○ Prevention: good immune system (healthy scalp Non-hair bearing (labia) skin), topical antifungals (zinc pyrithione, selenium Mucosal surface (labia to the urethra and sulfide, ketoconazole), and oral antifungals vagina) Tinea capitis Keratinized skin of the inner thigh joining ○ Ringworm the transitional skin of the anus Folliculitis ○ Intertriginous site ○ Bacterial infection Psoriasis of the scalp Male Genitalia ○ Active cell turnover leading to more dead skin ○ Skin interface cells Presence of hair ○ Production of too much poor quality skin too Thin skin of scrotum quickly Keratinized skin of the penis to ○ Severe thick silvery plaques to scalp scale that transitional mucosal skin of the head of may interfere with hair growth the penis BSPS 2020 7  Cosmetic Product Development Introduction to Cosmetic Product Development In uncircumcised males, the head of the Inside penis and the part of the penis beneath the foreskin is true mucosal skin Common Conditions Dental caries or tooth decay Common Conditions ○ Prevented through the use of different cosmetic Female Genitalia products such as toothpaste and mouthwashes ○ Infection: yeast, herpes simplex, genital warts Gum disease ○ Irritation: tight-fitting clothing, overhydrated skin ○ Usually secondary to tooth decay Male Genitalia Bad breath ○ Tinea cruris (Jock itch) ○ Improper oral hygiene can reflect through odor Sores and ulcers Maintenance of the Genitalia ○ Damage inside the oral cavity Female genitalia ○ Can happen when you accidentally bite your ○ Cleansers: management of infection, odor, & mouth. Since food is being passed through, it may moisture cause an infection. Management of moisture should not result in the removal of the natural Maintenance of the Oral Cavity vaginal lubricants Toothpaste and mouthwashes Regular body soaps (neutral pH) are not Management of moisture and odor recommended since the female genitalia Cleansing is slightly acidic due to lactic acid Male Genitalia ○ Management of moisture and odor ○ Intimate cleansers/washes are also available for the male genitalia Oral Cavity Figure 07. Anatomy of the mouth Note: no need to memorize all the parts, more on understanding the characteristics of the oral cavity The oral cavity or mouth is the first portion of the digestive tract and is bounded by the lips anteriorly, the fauces (ngala-ngala) posteriorly, the cheeks laterally, the palette superiorly and a muscular floor inferiorly. ○ Muscles for the movement of the tongue The tongue fills the available space on the floor of the mouth within the arch of the lower teeth. The oral cavity can be divided into two regions: ○ The vestibule, which is the space between lips or cheeks and the teeth Near the gums ○ The oral cavity proper, the region medial to the teeth. The oral cavity is lined with moist stratified epithelium which shows characteristic variations of the different regions BSPS 2020 8  Cosmetic Product Development Introduction to Cosmetic Product Development SUMMARY This section will contain the summary of everything in the transes. everything na nasa trans since you are able to summarize the Malaking tulong ang summary for those na gustong makakuha ng needed information. overview ng buong topic and I think it’ll help rin to make sense of There could be three versions of the summary… First is the bulleted form ○ Just like the tranes COLUMN FORMAT ○ But this will only contain keywords, mnemonics, Para makapunta dito, go to: etc. [Format] → [Columns] → [More Options] The other one is a summary table. Pwede nyo na lang For 2-column format, spacing is 0.3 inches syang i-edit sa docs sa buong page (not two columns like the transes). Figure 02. Column options ○ Magagamit to if maraming mga similarities sa mga dinidiscuss e.g. drug, dosage, indication, side effects e.g. muscle, origin, insertion, action For the summary, ilalagay nyo sya sa separate page with a full bar na nakalagay na SUMMARY Now, to do this go to: [Insert] → [Section break (next page)] ○ Tapos format to one column NOW… IF YOU NEED TWO COLUMNS… go to: [Insert] → [Section break (continuous)] ○ Tapos format to two columns answers to review questions: 4. (1) False_4pages (2)True (3)D 5. Review Questions 1. What sweat gland/s is/are present in the underarms? a. Eccrine glands b. Appocrine glands c. Sebaceous glands d. Only hair follicles are present in the underarms 2. __________ refer to areas of the skin characterized by moisture retention, skin movement (friction), and warmth as a result of two skin areas touching/rubbing one another. 3. [T/F] The pH of the female genetalia is slightly basic. The pH of the female genetalia is mainly attributed to the presence of lactic acid. a. Only statement I is true b. Only statement II is true c. Both statements are true d. None of the statements is true 4. Insert text here. Answers to Review Questions 1. Both a and b 2. Intertriginous sites 3. B; the pH of the female genetalia is slightly acidic due to the presence of lactic acid BSPS 2020 9