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J/SHS TLE/TVL – HE (Handicraft) Activity Sheet - Quarter 1- MELC 3 Creating Embroidered Products with Package REGION VI – WESTERN VISAYAS Quarter 1 - Week 3 - 8 Learning Activity Sheet No. 3 Name of Learner: ____________________...
J/SHS TLE/TVL – HE (Handicraft) Activity Sheet - Quarter 1- MELC 3 Creating Embroidered Products with Package REGION VI – WESTERN VISAYAS Quarter 1 - Week 3 - 8 Learning Activity Sheet No. 3 Name of Learner: ____________________________________________________ Grade and Section: ______________________ Date: _______________________ TLE/TVL – HE (HANDICRAFT - NEEDLECRAFT) ACTIVITY SHEET Create Embroidered Products with Package I. Learning Competency MELC 2. Create embroidered products with package: TLE_HEHC9 -12PE-Ic-j2 2.1 Manipulate properly the tools and materials for embroidery. 2.2 Combine stitching techniques in embroidery, Calado and smocking to create a well-made project. 2.3 Select appropriate and quality packaging material for embroidered articles. II. Background Information for Learners BASIC EMBROIDERY STITCHES 1. Running Stitch One of the most basic stitches and is usually the first stitch learned by the beginner embroidery or sewing enthusiast. This stitch can be worked in straight or curved lines, or for assembly when finishing an embroidery project. Variations of the embroidery version of this stitch include the whipped running stitch, laced running stitch, as well as a few dozen others. Running stitch is also the basic stitch used for darning stitches, with the straight stitches arranged in patterned row. To work the Running Stitch: a. Bring your needle up through the fabric from the back (or wrong side, whichever lingo you prefer) until the knot hits the fabric. b. Then bring the thread back up and until the task is completed. 2. Back Stitch This stitch most often used to outline a design. This stitch also forms the base line for other embroidery stitches. To work the Back Stitch: a. Start your back stitch as you would any other line stitch. Start the second stitch on the other side of your stitch. b. Start the third stitch at the end of the second stitch. b. Make sure all your stitches are the same length. 3. Couching Stitch considered especially useful for outlining or giving more weight to a single stitch line. Usually two working yarns are used: the laid yarn and couching yarn. The yarn which is stitched over another yarn – the laid yarn – to attached it to the fabric is called couching yarn. To work the Couching: a. Put a thread on the line of the design. b. Stitch over using another thread, keeping the first thread in place by using a small stitch on the fabric. c. The second stitch can be of contrasting color to the laid thread if desired. 4. Cross Stitch Stitch formed by two-crossing arms and may be used for outlining, as borders or to fill an entire area. To work the Cross Stitch: a. Complete one half of the cross at a time, first from lower right to top left and back under the fabric to the lower left, and so on to the end of the line (A). b. Complete the other half of the cross (B). c. Make sure the upper half of each stitch lies in the same direction. 5. Tent Stitch It is also called as the “Continental Stitch”. One of the most often used in basic needlepoint stitches. This is usually done on single thread canvass. To work the Tent or Continental Stitch: a. Work left to right bringing thread out at top of first stitch, insert needle diagonally down over crossed threads to bottom of stitch. Bring out to the right of the first stitch. Continue this way to the end of the row. b. The second row is worked from right to left inserting the needle at top of the stitch. c. Continue working rows backwards and forwards until the area is filled making sure all stitches slope in the same direction. The stitch can also be worked horizontally or diagonally. 6. FRENCH KNOT A single detached stitch used primarily to fill in a design area. It is popular stitch among embroiderers because it can be used to create the eyes on an embroidered face or the center of the flower. To work the French Knot: a. Insert the needle at the wrong side. b. Holding the thread taut with left thumb, wind the thread twice or several times around the needle. c. Hold the thread in place with your thumb then pull the needle and insert it close to the point it came through. d. Insert the needle to the point where the next French knot is to be placed. 7. Holbein Stitch It is also called double running stitch often used to outline blackwork embroidery. This stitch was first known as the “Italian Stitch”. It became known as the “Holbein Stitch” after Hans Holbein the Younger, a 16th-century portrait painter best known for his paintings of Henry VIII and his children, almost all of whom are depicted wearing clothing decorated with blackwork embroidery. To work the Holbein Stitch: a. Work a row of running stitches, leaving the same number of threads between the stitches as stitch length. b. Work back with another row of running stitches filling in the gaps left on the first row. 8. Herringbone Stitch It is basic overlapping stitch popular in border making. To work the Herringbone stitch: a. Bring needle out on lower line. Insert on top edge a little to the right and take a small stitch backwards along top edge. b. Insert on lower edge a little to the right and take another small stitch to the left. The fabric lifted by the needle and the space between the stitches should be the same to achieve best effect. c. Continue in this way until it was completed. 9. Fish Bone Stitch This is a kind of filling stitch which is ideal for making leaves or feather. In a broader sense, it is regarded as a member of the satin stitch family. To work the Fish Bone Stitch: a. Bring the needle out at the top of the shape (1) and make a small straight stitch. b. Continue down the shape, bringing the needle out at the edge (2 and 3) and down at the right or left of the center. 10. Blanket and Buttonhole Stitches The blanket stitch is a basic, popular embroidery stitch that can be used to create an edging, used as a surface embroidery stitch, or to stitch elements in place on an embroidery project, while buttonhole stitch are mostly used for cutwork embroidery. These stitches are done in the same manner. Their difference lies in the distance between stitches. Buttonhole stitches have less space between them as compared to blanket stitches. To work the blanket stitch: a. Pull the needle through to make an l- shaped half loop with the embroidery thread. Continue working the stitch, spacing them a short distance apart at regular intervals. b. Bring the needle up from the lower left edge and insert your needle through the embroidery fabric at the top of the location of the first stitch. c. Bring the tip of the needle through the fabric a short distance below the entry point, making a vertical stitch. If working along a marked line, the needle tip is brought through the fabric to the right side. If it is worked along an edge, the needle tip extends beyond the edge of the fabric. 11. Roumanian Stitch A couching stitch which has only one working yarn. This means that the yarn used as the laid yarn is also the yarn used for couching. To work the Roumanian Stitch: a. Bring the thread through at top left of A the space. b. Carry the thread across and lift a stitch on the right side of the space. c. Thread below the needle (A). Take a stitch at the left side, thread above the B needle (B). d. These two movement are worked until space is filled. Keep stitches close together. 12. Chevron Stitch It is a wider form of backstitch ideal for decorative borders and bands. To work the Chevron: a. Holding the needle downward, put the thread through the lower line of the design. b. Insert the needle a little to the right on the same line and take a small stitch to the left emerging halfway between the stitch being made. c. Insert the needle on the upper line a little to the right and take a small stitch a little to the left. d. Insert the needle again on the same line a little to the right and take a small stitch to the left emerging at center. Continue doing this stitch alternately on the upper and lower lines. 13. Satin Stitches A solid filling stitch that is used to cover a design area with long, straight stitches worked very close together. To work the Satin Stitches: a. Apply straight stitches across the design perpendicular to the lines which form the shape. b. Chain stitch or running stitch may be used as padding underneath to give a raised effect. c. Keep the edge even and follow the contour of the shape. Avoid making too long stitches 14. Split Stitch A loose stitch catching only a thread or two of fabric. It is designed to be invisible from the right side. It is a stitch for securing hems. To work the Split Stitch: a. Start your split stitch by coming up through the middle of your first stitch, splitting it in half. b. Make the rest of your stitches the same length as your first to get a nice, even line. c. Start your stitches in the middle of the stitch before. Use the end of the stitch two stitches before as a guide. 15. Stem Stitch Basically, an outline stitch, this stitch is often used for the stems in floral designs. To work the Stem Stitch: a. Start your split stitch by coming up through the middle of your first stitch, splitting it in half. b. Make the rest of your stitches the same length as your first to get a nice, even line. c. Start your stitches in the middle of the stitch before. Use the end of the stitch two stitches before as a guide. 16. Lazy Daisy Chain Stitch It is also called as Detached Chain Stitch. This stitch is worked in a circle to resemble the petals of a flower. To work the Daisy Stitch: a. The first stitch of your chain stitch is a loop. It should start and stop in the same place. b. Fasten each loop at the bottom (as presented in the diagram) with a small stitch. This stitch can be worked singly or in groups to form flower petals. 17. Hemstitch Italian hemstitching is a kind of counted thread embroidery. It is a stitch used to draw out parallel threads and stitch the expose threads in groups to form various designs. Hemstitching done along both sides of the drawn threads is also called ladder hemstitch or double hemstitching. To work the Hem Stitch: a. Draw out the threads from the fabric. Fasten the thread near the drawn threads at the right side. b. Pass the needle behind four loose threads. The number of threads taken together may vary depending on the kind of fabric used. c. Pass the needle behind the same four threads, this time bringing the point of the needle through the fabric which is ready for the next stitch. (At this point, the folded hem of the article should now be turned to the drawn threads and secured with the stitch.) 18. Fly Stitch A single stitch with a loop that is like that of the feather stitch. This stitch can be used for borders or to fill in a design area. This stitch can be worked singly or in vertical or horizontal rows. To work the Fly Stitch: 1 a. Bring the needle out at top left. Hold the thread down with the left thumb. b. Insert to the right on the same level a small distance from where it emerged and take a small stitch downwards to center. c. With the thread under the needle, pull through and insert the needle again below at the center and emerge in position for the next stitch. 19. Pekinese Stitch It is also known as the Chinese stitch. This stitch has back stitches as a base. Several Pekinese stitches can be used to outline or fill in a design area. To work the Pekinese Stitch: a.Make a row of back stitches. b.Interlace the row with a thread of either the same tone or different color. When working, pull on the loops slightly but strive to create an even finish throughout the row. 20. Feather Stitch A stitch with a loop and stitches and stitches evenly worked on both left and right sides of a design area. To work the Feather Stitch: a. Pull the needle out of the center while doing holding the thread down with the left thumb. b. Insert the needle a little to the right at the same level and take a small stitch down to the center. Make sure to keep the thread under the needle point. c. Insert the needle a little to the left on the same level and take stitch to the center. Again, keeping the thread under the needle point. d. Work these two movements alternately. 21. Bullion Stitch/Bullion Knot This stitch is a single, detached stitch that is used for filling in a design area. Rows of bullion stitches may also be used to outline a design. It is recommended that one uses a needle with a small eye for ease in pulling. To work the Bullion stitch: a. Bring needle out at top of length required for knot and make a backstitch to bottom of length required. b. Bring needle only partly out at original point. Twist thread loosely round the top of the needle, 6 or 8 times or enough to make the right length of stitch. c. Hold carefully with left thumb while pulling needle through. d. Turn needle ready to insert at bottom of stitch, pull the needle tight and pass needle through to back. 22. Rosette Chain Stitch A chain stitch that is popularly used for making decorative borders. Its name derives from the resemblance of a rose bud. It is worked from right to left between double lines of a design area. In a row, rosette chain stitches are worked close together. To work the Rosette Chain Stitch: a. Insert the needle through at the right end of the upper line, then pass the thread across to the left side while holding down with the left thumb. b. Bring the needle into the upper line a short distance from where the thread emerges and bring it out just above bottom line. c. Pass the thread around under the needle point, draw needle through the loop and then pass under the top thread avoiding picking up any fabric. 23. Twisted Chain Stitch A Chain stitch which is used to create an unusual outline. To work the Twisted Chain Stitch: a. Start with chain stitch, but instead of inserting the needle into the place from where it emerged, insert close to the last loop. b. Use a slanting stitch as you go out of the design’s line as you pull the thread through. For a better effect, keep the loops of this stitch close together. 24. Coral Stitch A simple outline stitch marked by knots along a stitch line. This is used particularly for making stems and twigs. Several rows of coral stitches can likewise be used to fill in a design area, producing a remarkably different texture. To work the Coral Stitch: a. Insert the needle from the wrong side and pull the thread up to the right end of the line. b. Hold the thread on the design lines with the left thumb. c. Stitch under the line and thread and pull through bringing the needle over the lower thread. SPECIAL KINDS OF EMBROIDERY Calado It is drawn work embroidery which the Philippines is noted for. Foreigners used to buy and bring home our articles with Calado work because of the daintiness of design and fineness of workmanship. Fine and even weave cloth is best suited for this. To achieve good design, transfer your chosen design to the cloth by pricking method. The Philippines was already known in Europe and other place the world for its fine, intricate embroidery work even far back as the 19th century Among the main centers of embroidery craftsmanship in the country during the time were Ermita, Santa Ana, and Malate. Manila was particularly noted for embroidered articles with satin-stitched designs combined with Calado. The Calado Process There are seven steps to make-up the Calado embroidery process for beginners. 1. Draw the design on a sheet of paper 2. Using one of the methods of design transfer, transfer it to the wax paper. 3. With a fine needle, perforate the design 4. Print the design on fabric using a mixture of kerosene, alcohol and blue dye. Your teacher will guide you in doing this step. 5. Set the work in a bastidor, or embroidery hoop, then apply Calado stitching on the areas requiring this. 6. All around the work, apply scallop edging design 7. Soak and wash the work then set into the banatan, a rectangular embroidery frame to stretch and even out the material. Here is additional information particularly the steps on how to scallop the edge (Heirloom Embroidery) of your fabric for a better result of your embroidered products: 1. Create a template to create a scalloped edge. Measure the edge of your garment or fabric. Decide how large you want each scallop to be. Divide the width of the scallop into the length of the fabric edge. Design the scallop width so that scallops are placed on corners, e.g., the corners of a tablecloth or napkins. 2. Draw your template on a folder. Open the folder. Measure the height of the scallop, which is the distance from the top of the notch between scallops and the bottom of the curved part of the scallop. Mark the scallop height on both ends of the folder and draw a line between the two marks. Mark the width of each scallop along the line that you drew. Place a cylindrical object between the marks you made to indicate the scallop width and trace around the bottom of the object. 3. Use a fine tailor's chalk pencil and your template to mark a scalloped edge on your fabric or garment. Stitch a small running stitch 1/8 inch in from the edge of the scalloped edge. Cut along the scalloped edge that you drew with tailor's chalk. 4. Use a double strand of embroidery thread to create a satin embroidery stitch along the scalloped edge of the fabric or garment. Begin stitching on the backside of the fabric, pull the thread through, pull the thread over the edge of the fabric. Stitch up through the back-side of the fabric, inserting the needle very close to previous stitch. Continue along the edge of your fabric or garment. Maintain even thread tension to create a professional, couture appearance. To attain beautiful lacy effects on fabrics that Calado embroidery can give, one should make sure that the stitches are not too tight because it will give a wrinkled effect nor too loose because it will result to unattractive and untidy looking. Embroidery frame can help a lot in keeping the drawn thread stretched for a fine finish. The tools and materials used in Calado embroidery is actually the same with the basic embroidery work which was already discussed on the previous part of this lesson. Also, note that plain fabrics are best used for ease in sewing especially for the beginner like you. But you can also use printed fabrics, you just have to be careful not to be distracted while counting the number of threads to be pulled or drawn. Even-weave and medium-weight materials are preferred. Smocking Smocking is a decorative embroidery or shirring especially designed to control fullness in garments by gathering the fabric in regularly spaced tucks held in place with fancy stitches. It is an interesting design feature in a variety of articles but is popularly used for children’s women’s clothing. It is commonly applied to areas of clothing with simple rectangular patterns such as the neckline, yoke, sleeve hem and cuffs. Smocking was practical for garments to be both form fitting and flexible, hence its name derives from smock — a farmer's work shirt. Smocking was used most extensively in the 18th and 19th centuries. Basic Methods Smocking is done in either two basic methods: regular and English. These two methods differ basically as to the side of the fabric where dots are marked. The dots serve as the guide for the smocking stitches. In regular smocking, the dots are marked on the right side of the fabric before smocking stitches are formed from dot to dot, gathering the fabric in each stitch. In English smocking, the dots are marked on the wrong side of the fabric before the rows of uneven running stitches are worked from dot to dot, forming small pleats. This process is referred to as pre-gathering. Smocking stitches are then worked on the right side of the fabric with a small stitch taken at each pleat previously. Beginners in smocking are advised to use the English method of smocking as the pre-gathering to make the smocking stitches easier. Basic Tools and Materials 1.Soft, light weighted fabrics like cotton, lawn and soft wool are most suitable as these fabrics gather easily. As smocking work takes up much fabric, remember to always use two to three times the desired finished width. 2.Crewel or chenille needles from 5 to 7. 3.Pearl cotton or embroidery floss. 4.You will also need grid to guide you as you work. The grid is marked on the fabric in evenly spaced dots. Hot-iron transfer sheets of the grid may be bought from crafts store. Or you may take your own grid using graphing paper. Basic Stitches and Variations There are five basic smocking stitches and two variations. The stitches are the cable, stem or outline, honeycomb, surface honeycomb, and vandyke. The stitch variations are the wave stitch and trellis stitch. The following are the directions in making each stitch in both regular and English methods. Remember that the last step does not apply to the regular method; it is only to be done for the English method. 1.Cable stitch is a tight stitch of double rows that joins alternating columns of gathers. The cable stitch is made up of alternating down cable and up cable stitches worked in a straight line. The needle is always inserted perpendicular to the pleats and parallel to the gathering threads. a. Start by bringing the needle up to the left of the first pleat. With the thread under needle, pick up the second pleat, inserting the needle from right to left. This is called an under cable. Give a gentle tug upward as you finish the stitch. b. The third pleat is picked up in the same manner but with the thread above the needle. This is called an over cable. Gently pull the thread down as you finish the stitch. c. Continue across the row in this manner with the thread alternating above below and above the needle. Use your needle to push stray stitches into alignment. Always keep your needle parallel to the gathering row as you sew and you cable stitch will sit right. d. Start by bringing the needle up to the left of the first pleat. With the thread under needle, pick up the second pleat, inserting the needle from right to left. This is called an under cable. Give a gentle tug upward as you finish the stitch. e. The third pleat is picked up in the same manner but with the thread above the needle. This is called an over cable. Gently pull the thread down as you finish the stitch. f. Continue across the row in this manner with the thread alternating above below and above the needle. Use your needle to push stray stitches into alignment. Always keep your needle parallel to the gathering row as you sew and you cable stitch will sit right. g. Start by bringing the needle up to the left of the first pleat. With the thread under needle, pick up the second pleat, inserting the needle from right to left. This is called an under cable. Give a gentle tug upward as you finish the stitch. h. The third pleat is picked up in the same manner but with the thread above the needle. This is called an over cable. Gently pull the thread down as you finish the stitch. i. Continue across the row in this manner with the thread alternating above below and above the needle. Use your needle to push stray stitches into alignment. Always keep your needle parallel to the gathering row as you sew and you cable stitch will sit right. Start by bringing the needle up to the left of the first pleat. With the thread under needle, pick up the second pleat, inserting the needle from right to left. This is called an under cable. Give a gentle tug upward as you finish the stitch. j. The third pleat is picked up in the same manner but with the thread above the needle. This is called an over cable. Gently pull the thread down as you finish the stitch. k. Continue across the row in this manner with the thread alternating above below and above the needle. Use your needle to push stray stitches into alignment. Always keep your needle parallel to the gathering row as you sew and you cable stitch will sit right. 2. Honeycomb is a medium density variant on the cable stitch that double stitches each set of gathers and provides more spacing between them, with an intervening diagonal stitch concealed on the reverse side of the fabric. This stitch is more elastic than any other of the smocking stitches, and is equally suitable for fine or coarse work. a. Start in 1st pleat. b. Take a stitch through top of 2nd and 1st pleats together, catch them together with a 2nd stitch but this time taking needle down back of the 2nd pleat until 2nd gathering thread is reached, then bring it out. c. Catch 3rd and 2nd pleats together with a stitch, make a 2nd stitch over this and take needle up back of 3rd pleat and out at 1st gathering thread. d. Continue up and down in this way until row is complete. Work a 2nd row on 3rd and 4th gathering threads and consecutive rows if required. Honeycomb is used mainly to finish off a pattern. 3. Surface honeycomb is a tight variant on the honeycomb stitch and the wave stitch with the diagonal stitch visible, but spanning only one gather instead of a gather and a space. a. Bring up needle on l2nd pleat from right; make a eft side of stitch over these 2 pleats and take needle down on right side of 2nd pleat and pass it through 2nd and 3rd pleats halfway between 1st and 2nd gathering threads. b. Continue up and down, advancing one pleat with every stitch. c. Work a 2nd row of stitches from halfway between 1st and 2nd gathering threads to 2nd gathering thread. d. Arrange stitches as shown in diagram. 4. Stem stitch is a tight stitch with minimum flexibility that joins two columns of gathers at a time in single-overlapping rows with a downward slope. It is a series of under stitches picked on each pleat and having the thread always under the needle. See diagram below: (a) (b) 4. Outline stitch is similar to the stem stitch but with an upward slope. a. Bring the needle up on the left side of a pleat, then pick up the next pleat to the right allowing needle to slant b. The thread is kept above the needle, it can however be kept below needle slanting upwards. (a) (b) 5. Vandyke is a tight variant on the surface honeycomb stitch that wraps diagonal stitches in the opposite direction. a. Bring the needle up between the first two pleats to be stitched on the right- hand side of the fabric. Take the thread through to the left-hand side of the second pleat. b. Keeping thread over needle, take a backstitch through pleats one and two. c. Thread still over needle, follow pleat two down to the bottom gathering row, and take a stitch through pleats two and three (an old pleat and a new one) d. Thread under needle, make a backstitch through these two pleats again. e. Thread still under needle, travel up on pleat three and make a stitch through pleats three and four (old pleat and a new pleat). f. Thread still under needle, travel up on pleat three and make a stitch through pleats three and four (old pleat and a new pleat). g. Continue across row in this manner. Stitch Variations In making the wave stitch variation, dots are marked only where stitches will be taken. 1. Wave stitch is a level stitch made up of cable stitches, moving up and then down incremented equally between the gathering threads. This is worked exactly in same way as Trellis stitch but after working one row a 2nd row or even a 3rd row is made to fit into the zig-zags, either close together or spaced. a. Begin with a down cable. b. Pick the next pleat (upward) halfway between the gathering threads in a down cable fashion c. Pick the next pleat (upward) at the gathering threads in a down cable fashion. d. Pick the next pleat at the gathering threads in and up cable fashion. e. Pick the next pleat (downward) half way between the gathering threads in a up cable fashion f. Pick the next pleat (downward) at the gathering threads in a up cable fashion and then pick the next pleat in a down cable fashion which is step a again (a) (b) (c) (d) ( e) (f) 2. Trellis stitch formed may be of different sizes, 3, 4 or 5 stitches are the usual numbers for the side of each trellis. a. Bring up needle in the 1take a small stitch through 2st pleat on a gathering thread, nd pleat at a slightly lower thread level slanting the needle slightly and keeping the above it; b. Take a stitch in 3rd and 4th pleats in the same way, then one in 5th pleat at the same level as last but with the thread below needle. This stitch should be halfway between two gathering threads. c. Work 3 stitches upwards in next 3 pleats, always keeping the thread below needle, the last stitch being on level of 1st gathering thread. d. Take a stitch in next pleat at same level but with thread above needle and work downwards again to former level. e. Work alternately up and down until end of row is reached. f. The 2nd row is begun on level of 2nd gathering thread and the stitches are worked upwards until 4th pleat is reached and then downwards. The center stitches of each row of zig-zags meet and form the trellis. Starting Off with the Project For smooth sailing and good quality work, here are some tips on how to start with your projects: 1. Plan out your design carefully before to start your project. 2. In smocking, make sure that the yarn is above the needle when working down and below the needle when working up. 3. Never overcrowd the gathers. As much as possible, combine smocking stitches and colors to produce an interesting and attractive effect in your work. 4. Observe balance by starting to work from the center to the design. 5. Always evaluate the design before you stitch it out 6. In embroidering, use a hoop that is in good condition. 7. Use the size of hoop that is the closest to the size of the design. It is important that you do not push the inner hoop through too much. This could cause other problems. 8. Do not stretch the grain of the fabric. 9. When stitching the design, use light pressure on the side of the hoop while stitching very heavily dense designs or if they have detailed outlines. Design Transfer Embroidery design is a drawing or sketch of the work to be done. Designs are selected to suit the purposes of the articles to be embroidered. Some articles need elaborate designs while some need simple designs or monograms and tiny motifs. Motifs may be made individually as the ones used on ladies’ handkerchiefs. The design must be simple but decorative, adding beauty to the materials. Also, considering the principles of design will produce more quality result. Designs to be embroidered need to be neatly transferred on cloth. The following are several ways of transferring designs on fabrics: 1. Ironing There are commercial designs available in novelty stores which are printed on thin transfer sheets. The design is transferred by laying the design on the fabric and passing over a hot flat iron on the transfer sheet. The design will then be imprinted on the cloth. For smocked fabrics, when transferring the grids using hot iron, make sure to check that the side and bottom edges of the transfer and fabric are aligned. There is also a need to leave a seam allowance above the top row of dots. 2. Tracing This is the simplest method of transferring design. Use a lightcolored carbon paper for light colored fabrics. Place the carbon paper face down on the cloth and lay the design on top. Trace the design by using a pencil or any sharp, pointed object. In smocked articles, graphing paper may also be used to trace the design. 1. Cut the graphing paper to fit your fabric 2. With a sharp awl, needle or pin, pierce dots on the paper in the spacing you require. It will help to keep in mind that the space between dots is usually from 1/4 to 3/8 inch while the space between the rows of dots is usually from 1/8 to 1/2 inch. 3. Place the graphing paper over the fabric then mark dots on the fabric. Use a pencil to make dots. Note: you can also use an even-weave fabric such as gingham which has a natural grid. Just remember to use pencil in marking the dots on the fabrics. 3. STAMPING This is the process of transferring design on the cloth with the use of a perforated pattern, soft absorbent cloth, indigo, and petroleum or kerosene. a. Mix indigo and petroleum or kerosene in a container. Form the soft absorbent cloth into a ball. b. With 1part indigo and 1 ½ parts kerosene, make a smooth thin paste c. Spread layers of newspaper on a table and lay the fabric on it. Check the proper alignment of the warp and woof threads. d. With the smooth side up, lay the perforated pattern on the fabric where the design is to be placed. To keep the fabric in place, put weights on the pattern. e. Dip the ball of cloth into the bluing mixture and rub over the design in one stroke or direction f. Check if the design was transferred clearly by lifting a corner carefully. g. Rub over again until the design is clearly imprinted. h. Lift the perforated pattern and clean with kerosene. Dry by air. Set aside the stamping materials and keep in safe place. Except for the honeycomb smocking, always work on your stitches from left to right (left-handed persons work in an opposite direction). Cross Stitch It is a popular form of counted-thread embroidery in which X-shaped stitches in a tiled, raster-like pattern are used to form a picture. Cross-stitch is often executed on easily countable even weave fabric called aida cloth. It is one of the oldest forms of embroidery and can be found all over the world. Many folk museums show examples of clothing decorated with cross-stitch, especially from continental Europe and Asia. The following are some of the tips before beginning your project: 1. Choose your fabric. Although cross stitch refers to the way in which you create a stitched pattern and not to a particular fabric, it is most often done on a type of material known as “Aida cloth”. This material is loosely woven in a grid pattern that makes lining up all your stitches easy. Aida fabric comes in different sizes which refer to the number of stitches that can be created in 1 square inch. The options are typically 11, 14, 18, and 28. It is easiest to start on an Aida cloth that uses an 11 or 14 stitch count, as this provides larger spaces for your cross stitch. The higher the number of stitches, the smaller your crosses will be. If you don't want to use Aida cloth for your cross stitch, other popular options are linen or fiddler’s cloth. Both these lack the same wide spaces Aida cloth provides for beginners though. 2. Select your thread. Cross stitch is great because it offers so much freedom on the part of the maker, particularly in the color options of thread. Embroidery floss is typically used and can be found in hundreds of colors. Each skein of embroidery floss comes in six threads, but only 1-3 will be used for cross stitch at a time. If you have a difficult time doing cross stitch with your thread, you can get waxed thread or use a bit of beeswax to prep your thread before starting your stitching. It will help the floss to thread and tie off easier. 3. Choose a pattern. Cross stitching is as simple as matching the grid on a pattern of choice to the grid in your cross-stitch fabric. Choose a pattern from a booklet or online, and gather embroidery floss in colors to match. As a beginner, it may be best to start with a simple cross stitch. Find a pattern that is small and doesn’t involve too many details and uses a total of 3-7 colors only. You can create your own pattern using your own images and a computer program or a bit of graph paper if you don't like the patterns that are available. 4. Get an embroidery hoop. This is a double ring made of plastic, metal, or wood that secures your cross stitch as you work. Although you can create a cross stitch without one, embroidery hoops are incredibly helpful and relatively inexpensive. Small hoops are easier to hold but must be moved often, while large hoops require more of a grip but need to be moved around your needlepoint less. Making Your Own Pattern 1. Choose an image. Any image can be created into a cross stitch pattern, but simple ones with easily definable shapes are best. Choose a picture or drawing that has only a few colors and lacks a lot of detail. 2. Adjust your image. You may want to crop and enlarge your image so that you focus on a single portion of the original picture. If you have a photo editing program, use a "posterize" feature to transform your picture into easily definable shapes. Convert your picture to grayscale before printing to match easier the values of the chosen color. 3. Trace your image. Print a physical copy of your image, and gather a piece of graph paper. Lay the graph paper over the top of your printed image, and trace the outline of the most basic shapes. Try to limit the amount of detail that you copy over. 4. Choose your colors. With your image and shapes traced, choose 3-7 colors to use for your cross stitch. Use colored pencils that match your chosen colors to shade in the shapes, focusing on a grid pattern and avoiding curved lines. Doing a Basic Cross Stitch 1. Cut your fabric and floss. The size of your fabric will depend on the size of the pattern you are using. Each small square on the cross-stitch fabric is representational of a single stitch (or “x” shaped cross), and can be counted across to get your exact size. Your embroidery floss should be cut to a length of about 36” to begin. Embroidery floss comes in strands of six threads, but typically only one is necessary for cross stitching. Gently pull apart the groupings of threads from the center and use a single thread for each section on your pattern. Some patterns may call for multiple threads to be used at once, so make sure to check yours before assuming the use of a single thread. One of the great things about cross stitching is that you can’t tell where you start/stop from the front. Simply cut additional thread and start again from where you left off. 2. Thread your needle. Take your single thread of embroidery floss and create a loop at the end. Then pull the loop through, leaving the two tail ends (one should be very short) to hang out the opposite side of the eye of the needle. 3. Begin your cross stitch. Count on your pattern the number of grid spaces to the first stitch (typically the centermost stitch), and insert your needle from the bottom. Pull the thread all the way through, leaving a bit of the loop at the bottom. Then, cross the thread down or up diagonally and pull the needle through the loop underneath to create a stable anchor for your stitching. With every stitch you make, thread your strings over the loose tail in the back to secure it to your cross-stitch fabric. This will also make it less likely for your cross stitch to unravel from being tugged or pulled. 4. Continue stitching. Using the same “x” stitch pattern, work outwards from the center of your cross stitch until you have completed the pattern. 5. Finish your piece. When you have completed the pattern and added an optional backstitch border, tie off your thread underneath your cross stitch. Tie a simple knot on the backside of your pattern, and cut off any remaining thread. 6. Wash your cross stitch. Hands are naturally very dirty and oily, and as such make the fabric of your needlepoint dirty as well. Frequent hand washing can help to limit the amount of grime that is transferred to your fabric, but a ring of dirt around your embroidery hoop is nearly inevitable. Gently hand wash your cross stitch with soap and water and allow to air dry when you are finished with it. http://www.wikihow.com/Cross-Stitch PACKAGING OF FINISHED PRODUCTS/PROJECTS Packaging is the process of using materials to wrap or protect goods or products. Aside from the protection of the products or goods, the packaging materials will serve as an attraction to the buyer. PACKAGING MATERIALS AND TOOLS Creative and artistic packaging lies on the hand of the packager. You may use all the materials you think would help in making your package more presentable. These days, people are becoming environment conscious. As much as possible, the use of plastics is being reduced or avoided to help preserve and protect our environment. Instead, indigenous materials or those abundant in the locality may be utilized. Abundance of materials may also mean cheaper price for the packaging. Product packaging is about communication and persuasion. Sometimes, aside from the quality, consumers are attracted to buy the product because of its appearance. They tend to compare the same products according to the packaging options. When all other features are equal, the deciding factor might be the presentation of the product based on its packaging. Choosing the materials in packaging varies on the theme of package whether it is for occasional purposes such as birthday, valentines, Christmas. One should be equipped with bright and creative ideas in order to come up with a good package design or style. The manner you pack your product highly reflects the kind of person you are. It shows the creativity and innovativeness in you. This also shows how you value your item. This lesson encourages you to think of the packaging and express yourself freely as you pack your quilted craft items. That’s why, give the best you’ve got. Don’t be afraid to discover and explore the potential and God-given talent in you! Enjoy packaging! III. Accompanying DepEd Textbooks and Educational Sites Department of Education. K to 12 Technology and Livelihood Education, Home Economics Needlecraft Learner’s Material for Grade 9 (pages 30-32 and pages 43-81) (Images from pages 30-32 and 43-81) SEDP Series, Technology and Home Economics III, Home Technology Related Crafts I, Third Year High School http://www.wikihow.com/Cross-Stitch http://homeguides.sfgate.com/make-smocked-pillows-53268.html IV. Activity Proper 1.General Directions: “Create Embroidered Products with Package” by following the directions in each activity for independent practice to solidify your understanding and skills of the competency. 2. Activities Activity 1 “Embroidery Stitches” Directions/Instructions: Choose at least five embroidery stitches. Write each stitch inside the call out. Then make a brief description or code that would help you to remember each stitch. Example: Lazy Daisy Chain Stitch: Circle in shape, Flowers petal look alike. Activity 2 “Packaging Materials” Direction/Instructions: Using the graphics below, list down examples of appropriate quality packaging materials that can be used for a finished quilted product. Indigenous Packaging Materials Packaging Materials Other Environment- Friendly Packaging Materials Activity 3 “Package Description” Direction/Instructions: Think of a package for an embroidered product that will satisfy the following functions: (a) identify the product, (b) sell & showcase the design so consumers can be persuaded to buy, (c) protect the product, and (d) utilize indigenous or environment-friendly package. Then, describe your package in detail. Write your answer below. (5 points) __________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ Activity 4 “Making My Embroidery Stitches” Directions/Instructions: With the use of Embroidery tools and materials, make at least 10 different embroidery stitches. You are free to choose any color of yarn and different colors of fabric scraps. You may refer to the procedures given in each embroidery stitches that you have learned in this lesson. To know the criteria on how your output will be rated, refer to the Rubric performance below. Manipulate properly the tools and materials in doing your embroidery stitches. Then make a Sampler Craft book on the Embroidery stitches that you have made. Be creative in your presentation! Activity 5 “Embroidered Article No. 1” Directions/Instructions: Make a Smocked Pillow Case by following the procedures below. Refer to the Rubric Performance below in rating your work. As you finish your embroidered projects with self-made package, choose at least 3 members of your family and allow them to give their written comments about your finished product. Be open to accept either positive or negative feedbacks. Attached those feedbacks as you submit your finished product. This will help you to gather ideas in making your next article/product be of more quality. Remember to always open a room for improvement. EMBROIDERED ARTICLE # 1 SMOCKED PILLOW CASE Procedure: 1. Measure and cut a square of fabric one inch larger than the prefer size of pillow, in both length and width. This is the back of the pillow. Set aside. 2. Measure and cut another piece of fabric one inch wider than the pillow form and three times longer, plus one inch. 3. Make a grid of evenly spaced dots on the right side of the large piece of fabric using a fabric pencil. Use one-inch distance between dots. The more space between dots, the larger the smocked folds of fabric. Cover the entire large piece of fabric with rows and columns of evenly spaced dots. 4. Apply honeycomb stitch until the entire piece of fabric has been smocked. Make a small lockstitch at each point where dots meet. Knot the thread at the end of each row as you work. 5. Sew the pillow back to the smocked front piece with right sides together. Stitch by hand with 1-inch seam allowances. Leave one side open to insert the pillow form. 6. Turn the pillow right side out. Insert the pillow form, distributing smoothly over the form. 7. Turn in the raw edges and sew the opening together. Source: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/make-smocked-pillows-53268.html For your reference: (Adapted and modified from Arribas, 2009) 3. Rubrics for Scoring PERFORMANCE RUBRICS Criteria Ideal Score Actual Score Design (30%) Original, innovative in concept and design 5 Appropriate for the intended use 10 Appearance – appropriate application of 15 elements and principles in art, well- proportioned, structurally stable Material (30%) Appropriate choice for the design and 10 function Availability of the materials – legally 5 approved for use, environment-friendly Characteristics of the material contribute to 5 the appeal of the product Mature and well-seasoned materials, of good quality Properly and adequately processed 5 Materials are economically used 5 Technique (40%) Techniques are suited to the design and 10 materials Construction techniques blend well with the 10 design and appeal of the object Well-exhibited technique, from pre- 10 construction to finishing, results to a strong and durable product Fine craftsmanship 10 Total Score 100 4.Guide Questions Directions/Instructions: Answer briefly the following questions. Write your answer on the space provided. 1. How did you select appropriate quality packaging materials for embroidered articles? _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ 2.What is the most difficult part in handling embroidered articles? _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ 3.What is the greatest challenge you encountered when you performed combining stitching techniques in embroidery and how did you deal with it? _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ 4. What can you say or advise to those who wanted to take the venture of entrepreneurship using embroidered articles/products as their main enterprise? _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ 5.How does manipulating properly the tools and materials in embroidery affect the quality or the characteristics of an embroidered article? _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ V. Reflection: “State your Feelings.” Directions: Write your reactions and insights on what you have learned in this learning competency, “Create Embroidered Products with Package” on the blank space provided below. __________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________ VI. Answer Key 1. Answers for Activity 1 to 3 may vary. 2. Activity 4 - refer to Rubrics 3. Activity 5 – answers may vary I.
