Fashion History 1914-1940 PDF

30/10/2024 1914-1940 1919- 1930 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 186 186 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE SOCIETAL CONTEXT FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 187 octobr...

30/10/2024 1914-1940 1919- 1930 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 186 186 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE SOCIETAL CONTEXT FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 187 octobre 24 187 1  30/10/2024 1914-1940 THE ROARING 20’S Les années Folles & la garçonne The term « Garçonne » describes a 20th century fashion trend that emerged during the Roaring Twenties, between 1919, when the First World War The Roaring Twenties is a retrospective chrononym for the ended, and 1929, when the economic and social period of intense social, cultural crisis began. and artistic activity beginning in 1920 and ending in 1929 Beyond a style specific to the 1920s, the garçonne phenomenon, born of women's emancipation and Period of economic prosperity with a a demand for gender equality , reflects a cultural distinctive cultural edge in the mutation in the representation of the female gender United States and Europe. that prefigures the contemporary woman 30.10.24 188 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 188 1914-1940 THE ROARING 20’S Les années Folles In France, the decade was known as LES ANNEES FOLLES ("crazy years"). It emphasizes the period’s social, artistic and cultural dynamism. Jazz from the US became very popular. Art Deco became the main artistic movement influencing all types of Art including fashion. 30.10.24 189 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 189 2  30/10/2024 1914-1940 THE ROARING 20’S Les années Folles Gabrielle Chanel 1920’s 30.10.24 190 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 190 1914-1940 La Garçonne (flappers) 1920’s CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY 30.10.24 ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 191 3  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1814-1930 – The roaring 20’s LA GARCONNE THE FLAPPER 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 192 FASHION HISTORY 1814-1930 – The roaring 20’s LA GARCONNE THE FLAPPER Jane Dieulafoy (1851-1916), 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 193 4  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1814-1930 – The roaring 20’s LA GARCONNE THE FLAPPER Louise Brooks CharlotteAndler Louise Brooks Clara Bow 194 FASHION HISTORY 1814-1930 – The roaring 20’s LA GARCONNE THE FLAPPER Niki de Montparnasse 195 5  30/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 1 4 - 1 9 3 0 – T h e r o a r i n g 2 0 ’s LA GARCONNE THE FLAPPER Renée Pèrle 196 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE ART & CULTURE FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 197 octobre 24 197 6  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE Bahaus (1919-1933) Walter Gropius established the Bauhaus in Weimar. Its style evolved into a highly influential force in modern design, architecture, and art education. The Bauhaus left a lasting impact on various fields including art, architecture, graphic design, interior design, industrial design, and typography. FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 198 Illustration 1932 199 7  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE Art déco Art Deco, or simply Deco, emerged as a significant visual arts design style originating in France just prior to World War I, gaining global prominence in the 1920s. Its name, derived from "Arts Décoratifs," stems from the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris. This eclectic style blends traditional craft elements with Machine Age aesthetics and materials, often distinguished by vibrant colors, striking geometric forms, and opulent embellishments. FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 200 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 201 8  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE Palace of Tokyo 1931 - Paris Daily express building – Manchester - 1939 Eur aera – Roma - 1919 F A S H I O N H I S T O R Y © J A Y N E S I M O N E E S T E V E C U R E 2New 0 2 3 Chancellery – Berlin- 1939 202 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE Delano National Miami Empire State Building 1930 Chrysler Building Beach 1930 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 203 9  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE Marcel Breuer – DeskS285 Marcel Breuer – ChairWassily – 1922 Marcel Breuer – ChairvB32 – 1931 Ludwig Mies van der Rohe – long chair - Barcelona MR90 – Mart Stam – armchair S34 – 1926 1929 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 204 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE Le Corbusier Or the international style Corbusier (1887-1865), painter, urban planner, architect, he is part of the modernist movement and revolutionizes architectural through 5 principles: § Flat roof, § built on stilts, § Windows headbands, § free façade, § free plan, FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 205 10  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE Maison Laroche 1925 Villa Savoye 1928-1931 Cité Radieuse 1977 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 206 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE Mallet Stevens (1886-1945) Villa Cavrois FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 1932 207 11  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 208 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE School of Paris Paris drew foreign artists for several reasons: the absence of political oppression, its relative economic stability, and the presence of renowned modern art masters like Picasso, Braque, Rouault, Matisse, and Léger. Additionally, a thriving community of art galleries, critics, and collectors provided vital support to artists. The vibrant exchange and clash of ideas among artists, along with the diversity of artistic styles, were also key features of the Parisian art scene. Included: § Dada, § Surréalism, § Modernes, § Fauvism, § cubism, § expresionnism, §Other: Soutine,Modigliani, Chagall, Utrillo FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 209 12  30/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 9 0 0 - 1 9 2 9 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E Man Ray (1890-1976) Refusing any hierarchy between painting and photography, he considers the camera and the brush as instruments equivalent to what is the typewriter for a writer Photographer Dada FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 210 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 211 13  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE Cassati 1922 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 212 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE Marcel Duchamp by Man Ray 192 Cocteau vers 1935 Rose Sélavy, Marcel Duchamp 1921 Dali vers 1929 Noire et Blanche, 1926 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 213 14  30/10/2024 1914-1940 ART & FASHION 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 214 214 1914-1940 MARIANO FORTUNY A complete artist 1889-1949 Auto portait photograph Circa 1910 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 215 215 15  30/10/2024 1914-1940 MARIO FORTUNY Textile designer 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 216 216 1914-1940 MARIANO FORTUNY Painter 1938 Portrait of Henriette wearing his famous Delphos dress & Knossos scarf 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 217 217 16  30/10/2024 1914-1940 1910 MARIANO FORTUNY The Delphos dress 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 218 218 1914-1940 SONIA (STERN) DELAUNAY Complete female artist 1885-1979 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 219 219 17  30/10/2024 1914-1940 SONIA DELAUNAY geometrical abstraction Sonia worked mainly on the search for pure colour and the movement of simultaneous colours, 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 220 220 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE 30.10.24 221 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 221 18  30/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 222 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE SONIA DELAUNAY Géometrie & Mode 30.10.24 223 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 223 19  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE 30.10.24 224 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 224 1914-1940 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 225 225 20  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1900-1929 – CONTEXT & CULTURE 1918- 1930 30.10.24 226 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 226 SALES CEREMONIAL INTRODUCTION GABRIELLE CHANEL 1883-1971 MAISON 1914 227 octobre 24 SALES CEREMONIAL IN LUXURY JSEC2022 © 227 21  30/10/2024 1914-1940 « La mode se démode, le style ne se démode jamais » Coco Chanel 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 228 228 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 9 1 4 - 1 9 3 0 – G a b r i e l l e C h a n e l GABRIELLE CHANEL 1883-1971 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 229 229 22  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel « Fashion does not exist if it does not reach the street » Gabrielle Chanel 30.10.24 230 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 230 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel T H E FO U N D E R — G A B R I E L L E B O N H E U R c h a s n e l C H A N E L 1909 1925 1953 1971 « Luxury is the opposite of vulgarity. » 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 231 231 23  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel THE CHANEL STORY 1883 Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel (19 August 1883 – 10 January 1971) 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 232 232 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel BIRTH OF GABRIELLE CHASNEL August 1883 in Saumur Saumur 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 233 233 24  30/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 9 1 4 - 1 9 3 0 – G a b r i e l l e C h a n e l Abbaye Cistercienne d’Aubazine 1895-1901 orphanage years 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 234 234 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel Le Grand Café. Moulins 1907-1908 Gabrielle becomes « coco » 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 235 235 25  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel « Qui a vu Coco sur le Trocadéro? » Audrey Tautou in « Coco before Chanel » 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 236 236 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel Change of life, change of scenery… Arthur Boy Capel Etienne Balsan 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 237 237 26  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel A woman of her times… chanel’s quirky & orignal style is affirmed 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 238 238 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel GABRIELLE STARTS HER BUSINESS « CHANEL MODE » & MAKES HATS 1909 Helped by Boy Capel, she launched her business from the Parisian bachelor apartment of her protector Étienne Balsan. The hats she designed variations of those she made for herself and which seduced her friends, the demi- mondaines she frequented. Gabrielle Chanel in one of her own hats in October 1910. 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 239 239 27  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel GABRIELLE OPENS HER OWN STORE 21 RUE CAMBON PARIS 1910 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 240 240 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel GABRIELLE OPENS HER STORE IN DEAUVILLE Hats & skirts & tops 1913 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 241 241 28  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel BIARRITZ 1915 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 242 242 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel PARIS 1918 31 RUE CAMBON 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 243 243 29  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel CHANEL FASHION REVOLUTION 30.10.24 244 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 244 244 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel CHANEL N°5 1921 The Wertheimer association 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 245 245 30  30/10/2024 F HAA SUHT IEO C N OHUI S TTUO RER YI N1 9P1 A 4 -R1I 9S 3 109 1–4 G - 1a9b4 r0i e l l e C h a n e l LITTLE BLACK DRESS LBD 1926 The little black dress was created in a colour until then reserved exclusively for mourning… a straight sheath without a collar, with 3/4 length sleeves and a black tube in crepe de Chine, 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 246 octobre 24 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 246 246 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel BRITISH CONNECTIONS 1921 GABRIELLE WITH WINSTON CHURCHILL 1921 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 247 247 31  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel TWEED 1924 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 248 248 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel BALLET 1924 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 249 249 32  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel HERITAGE & ROOTS THE CHANEL STORY 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 250 250 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel PEAK OF HER FAME EMPLOYS 4000 WORKERS 1935 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 251 251 33  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel WAR YEARS 1944_ 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 252 252 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel EXILE 1944_ 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 253 253 34  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel 10 YEARS LATER… HER COME-BACK 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 254 254 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel 30.10.24 255 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 255 35  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel SUCCESS WITH THE TWEED SUIT 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 256 256 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel SUCCESS WITH THE 2.55 BAG 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 257 257 36  30/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 9 1 4 - 1 9 3 0 – G a b r i e l l e C h a n e l The it-bag 2.55 30.10.24 258 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 258 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel HOW GABRIELLE CHANEL MADE HER MARK ON THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 259 259 37  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel THE FUNDAMENTAL STYLISTIC RUPTURES FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT looseness Length of skirts Suppleness Lightness of fabrics Widening of arm-holes Play on the back of jackets & later the Shoulder bag 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 260 260 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel THE FUNDAMENTAL STYLISTIC RUPTURES FABRIC 1916 jersey or above/beneath 1929 tweed or masculine / feminine 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 261 261 38  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel THE TWEED SUIT 30.10.24 262 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 262 262 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel JERSEY 30.10.24 263 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 263 263 39  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel THE FUNDAMENTAL STYLISTIC RUPTURES PRODUCT TYPES 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 264 264 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel THE CHANEL CODES The pearl necklace 30.10.24 265 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 265 40  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel THE FUNDAMENTAL STYLISTIC RUPTURES SIMPLICITY V ORNEMENTAL 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 266 266 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel THE FUNDAMENTAL STYLISTIC RUPTURES SIMPLICITY V ORNEMENTAL 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 267 267 41  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel THE FUNDAMENTAL STYLISTIC RUPTURES STYLE VOCABULARY Between 56 et 57: Tweed piped Suit The golden chain belt The black toe end court shoe The chain bag The monogramme The camellia The « baroque » jewelry 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 268 268 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel 1932 1954 THE PEARL NECKLACE THE TWEED SUIT 1921 PA R F U M N ° 5 1957 1955 2. 5 5 Q U I LT E D B A G TWO-TONES SHOES 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 269 269 42  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel THE CHANEL CODES The bow Tweed suit The boater LUCKY N°5 Padding Jersey Pearl necklace Black & white Monogramme The camelia Gofd The chain little belt black "baroque« dress jewelry The « 2.55 » handbag Black toe court shoe 30.10.24 270 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 270 1914-1940 THE CHANEL CODES 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 271 271 43  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1914-1930 – Gabrielle Chanel CHANEL N° 5 Long running best seller 30.10.24 272 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 272 FASHION HISTORY 1918-1939 General silhouette Closed silhouette Visual contrast masculine -feminine 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 273 273 44  30/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1918-1939 GABRIELLE CHANEL TO KARL LAGERFELD & VIRGINIE VIARD 1916-1971 1985-2019 2019- 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 274 274 FASHION HISTORY 1918-1939 1983 KARL LAGERFIELD 2019 VIRGINIE VIARD 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 275 275 45  30/10/2024 1914-1940 BRAND AMBASSADORS — MOVIE UNIVERSE MARION COTILLARD MARGOT JENNIE LILI ROSE ROBBIE KIM DEPP 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 276 276 1914-1940 BRAND AMBASSADORS — EXEMPLE : EYEWEAR SHADES ANGÈLE PHARRELL SEBASTIEN ISABELLE WILLIAMS TELLIER ADJANI 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 277 277 46  30/10/2024 1914-1940 CHANEL BY VIRGINIE VIARD — COLLECTION SUMMER 2021 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 278 278 1914-1940 CHANEL BY VIRGINIE VIARD — COLLECTION SUMMER 2022 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 279 279 47  30/10/2024 1914-1940 CHANEL BY VIRGINIE VIARD — COLLECTION SUMMER 2025 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 280 280 1929 - 1944 192 9 - 1944 octobre 24 FASHIONHISTORY 1870-1960©JAYNEESTEVECURE2023 281 281 48  30/10/2024 FASHION 1940-1960 MAISON LUCIEN LELONG 1921-1952 octobre 24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 282 282 1914-1940 LUCIEN LELONG 1888-1958 MAISON 1921 283 octobre 24 283 49  30/10/2024 FASHION 1940-1960 LUCIEN LELONG 1889-1958 SAVIOUR OF THE FRENCH HAUTE COUTURE AND FASHION INDUSTRY octobre 24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 284 284 1914-1940 LUCIEN LELONG 1889-1958 Born in Paris. Opened his House in early 1910’s. Poor health caused the end of his career; Lelong retired from couture in August 1949, and only continued his perfume business. Lelong did not actually create the garments that bore his label. « He did not design himself, but worked through his designers. He hired Dior from 1941 to 1946 who designed the collections with Pierre Balmain. Hubert de Givenchy also worked for him. He did however have a signature style in his collections. Among Lelong's clients were Marie Duhamel, Nora Barnacle wife of James Joyce, Jeanne Ternisien (wife of the banker Georges Nelze), the Duchess de la Rochefoucauld, Greta Garbo, Gloria Swanson, Colette, and Rose Kennedy. He lived his retirement years in Biarritz. 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 285 285 50  30/10/2024 FASHION 1940-1960 LUCIEN LELONG Fashion is indestructible Cecil Beaton (photographer 1941) 30/10/2024 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 286 286 1914-1940 LUCIEN LELONG Elegance for the Parisienne 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 287 287 51  30/10/2024 1914-1940 LUCIEN LELONG Parisian Elegance 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 288 1914-1940 EDWARD MOLYNEUX 1881-1974 MAISON 1919 289 octobre 24 289 52  30/10/2024 1914-1940 EDWARD MOLYNEUX 1881-1974 Born in London. Died in Monte Carlo. Leading British designer whose salon in Paris operated from 1919 to 1950. Started his career as a sketch artist, then assistant designer at the Paris branch, at the successful couturier Lucile. Molyneux opened his fashion house in Paris in 1919, expanding to Monte Carlo, Cannes & London (1932). Known for impeccably refined simplicity. He regularly dressed European royals. Retired in 1950 but came in 1964 to launch Ready-2-W. He retired a 2nd time in 1969. Molyneux was also a painter & collector of Impressionist paintings. Company closed in 1977. Fragrances still going. 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 290 290 1914-1940 IMPECCABLY REFINED SIMPLICITY 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 291 291 53  30/10/2024 1914-1940 1949 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 292 1914-1940 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 293 54  30/10/2024 1914-1940 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI 1890-1973 MAISON 1927 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 294 octobre 24 294 1914-1940 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI 1890-1973 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 295 295 55  30/10/2024 1914-1940 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI An artistic approach to fashion 1890 Born in Rome, Italy, into an aristocratic family at the Palazzo Corsini She came to Paris & began making her own clothes. Encouragement by Paul Poiret, she started her own business Created House of Schiaparelli in 1927 rue de l’Université Started with knitwear and the technique of Trompe-l’œil Her style was eccentric She celebrated Surrealism by collaborating with Salvador Dali & Jean Cocteau and use of bright colours such as her famous « Shocking pink » She is considered to be with her rival, Coco Chanel, the most prominent fashion designer between the two world wars After the war, she was not as successful & closed the Couture activity Aged 64, Schiaparelli wrote her autobiography and then lived out a comfortable retirement between her Paris apartment and house in Tunisia. She died in Paris 30.10.24 C O N T E13 M P in ORA1973. RY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 296 296 1914-1940 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI An artistic approach to fashion 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 297 297 56  30/10/2024 1914-1940 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 298 298 1914-1940 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 299 299 57  30/10/2024 1914-1940 1937 - The actress Ginger Rogers wearing Schiaparelli's black velvet The Astronomy "Galyak" collection, published in coat. Vogue in 1938 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 300 300 1914-1940 Le parfum Shocking 1936 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 301 301 58  30/10/2024 1914-1940 1938 Marlene Dietrich wearing a Schiaparelli- Schiaparelli's outfit designed hat 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 302 302 1914-1940 Schiaparelli outfits 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 303 303 59  30/10/2024 1914-1940 1951 - Trying 1947 - A model hats on a posing outside model's head Schiaparelli's Place in her Paris Vendome shop. atelier. 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 304 304 1914-1940 2012 - Schiaparelli's designs at the Met Museum's exhibition, Elsa Schiaparelli and 1952 - Attending Miuccia Prada: Jacques Fath's Impossible ball in costume. Conversations 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 305 305 60  30/10/2024 1914-1940 Evening jacket, 1937 Evening dress, 1937 Evening suit, 1937- 1938 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 306 306 1914-1940 Evening jackets 1938 Evening suit 1938 Evening suit, 1938 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 307 307 61  30/10/2024 1914-1940 Necklace, 1938 Buttons, 1938 Suit, 1938 with insect- shaped buttons Suits 1938-1939 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 308 308 1914-1940 Pant suit 1939 Hat 1938-1939 Coat 1939 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 309 309 62  30/10/2024 1914-1940 Evening dress 1940 Dress 1940 Cocktail dress 1940 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 310 310 1914-1940 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI With Jean Cocteau 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 311 311 63  30/10/2024 1914-1940 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI SALVADOR DALI Surealism 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 312 312 1914-1940 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI SALVADOR DALI Surealism 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 313 313 64  30/10/2024 1914-1940 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI surrealisme 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 314 314 1914-1940 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI The Wrap Dress 30.10.24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 315 315 65  30/10/2024 SALES CEREMONIAL INTRODUCTION CONTEXTUALIZATION & CULTURAL REFERENCES FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 316 octobre 24 316 FASHION HISTORY REFERENCES Financial crisis 1929 The Wall Street Crash of 1929, stands as a pivotal moment in American financial history - share prices on the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE) suffered a catastrophic collapse – it is crucial in explaining the causes of the worldwide Great Depression. The events of October 24, 1929, known as Black Thursday witnessed the largest sell-off of shares in U.S. history. This crash, following the September crash of the London Stock Exchange, signaled the onset of the Great Depression. FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 317 June 2023 317 66  30/10/2024 Black Tuesday The Wall Street Crash of 1929, also known as Black Tuesday, was a catastrophic stock market crash that began on October 24, 1929. It marked the start of the 10-year Great Depression, severely impacting Western industrialized nations. 318 FA S H I O N H I STO RY R E F E R E N C E S The Great Depressiçon The Great Depression was a profoundly challenging period in the history of the United States and the world, marked by severe economic hardship and social upheaval. It began in the aftermath of the Wall Street Crash of 1929 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 319 June 2023 319 67  30/10/2024 1914-1940 THE 1930’S 30.10.24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 320 320 68