Fashion History 1870-1914 PDF

16/10/2024 HISTORY OF FASHION 1870-1960 Parisian Couturiers JAYNE SIMONE ESTÈVE CURE X MODART 2023 octobre 24 1 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 1 FASHION HI...

16/10/2024 HISTORY OF FASHION 1870-1960 Parisian Couturiers JAYNE SIMONE ESTÈVE CURE X MODART 2023 octobre 24 1 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 1 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – INTRO INTRODUCTION FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 2 octobre 24 2 1  16/10/2024 FAS H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – I N T R O BRIEF EVALUATION 2CC + Group project CC#1 -> in class November 13th -> Multiple choice questions CC#2 -> group project ORAL 29th + written document (28.11.24) è Couturier research & analysis è 5 groups of 3 students è 15 to 18 mns oral presentation + document G1 G2 G3 G4 G5 G6 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 3 octobre 24 3 FAS H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – I N T R O BRIEF EVALUATION 2CC + Group project TOPIC -> Conduct in-depth research to present your allocated Couturier. Include & enrich the following criteria : Personality & life story – make a time-line and create a portrait Maison History Contextualise historically Present & describe signature styles & designs Major achievements G1 Les Sœurs Callot G2 Maison Félix G3 Jeanne Paquin G4 Rouff G5 Louise Chéruit G6 octobre 24 John Redfern FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 4 4 2  16/10/2024 FAS H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 PART 1 1870-1914 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 5 octobre 24 5 FA S H I O N H I S TO RY 1 8 70 - 1 9 1 4 – L I S T PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S 1871-1914 Parisian Haute Couture chronology Charles Frederick Worth 1825-1895 Principal 1858 1875 Jacques Doucet 1853-1929 Couturiers 1881 John Redfern 1820-1895 -> Maison 1891 Jeanne Paquin 1869 - 1936 launch dates 1895 Les Soeurs Callot (callot sisters) Marie 1857 - 1927 1903 Paul Poiret 1879 - 1944 1909 Jeanne Lanvin (1889 milliner) 1867 - 1946 1912 Madeleine Vionnet 1876 - 1975 1912 Gabrielle Chanel (1910 milliner). 1883 - 1971 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 6 6 3  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE #1. CONTEXTUALIZATION & CULTURAL REFERENCES FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 7 octobre 24 7 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE POLITICAL RECAP FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 8 octobre 24 8 4  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE 2ND EMPIRE 1858-1870 LOUIS-NAPOLEON (III) BONAPARTE Emperor of France Empress Eugénie octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 9 9 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E PRINCESS EUGENIE 1826-1920 María Manuela Kirk- Patrick and her two daughters Maria and Eugenie. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 10 10 5  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E EMPRESS EUGÉNIE octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 11 11 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE IMPERIAL FESTIVITIES octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 12 12 6  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE FRANCO PRUSSIAN WAR 1870-1871 The downfall of the 2nd Empire octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 13 13 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E Napoleon III, Eugenie and the Prince French Emperor Napoléon III Imperial in the and his wife Eugénie 1860s octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 14 14 7  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E THE DOWNFALL OF NAPOLEON III & THE 2ND EMPIRE Adolphe Thiers 1st President of the 3rd Republic Adolphe Thiers (1871-1873) 1st President of the French Third Republic. Played a significant role in stabilizing the government after the fall of Napoleon III's Second Empire octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 15 15 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE EUGENIE’S LIFE AFTER NAPOLEON & HER SON octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 16 16 8  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1871-1914 LA BELLE EPOQUE CROSSROADS OF 2 CENTURIES Europe experienced (after Franco-Prussian war) a long period of peace (4 decades) – this favoured extraordinary economical & technical progress. Emergence of a new class the « Bourgeoisie » who benefitted from economic progress. Expansion Cultural & technical improvements Carefree behaviour Positivism/Optimism Faith in progress Gaiety: cafés, cabarets, art galleries, concert halls & salons were frequented by the bourgeoisie octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 17 17 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1871-1914 S U S TA I N E D G R O W T H FOR FRANCE Period between : fall of the 2nd Empire (1870) beginning of the First World War. The Universal Exhibition of 1889 is considered to be the real beginning of the Belle Epoque: an artistic and intellectual effervescence. France experienced sustained growth thanks to the second industrial revolution: technical advances, artistic ebullience. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 18 18 9  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE ART & CULTURE FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 19 octobre 24 19 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE 1851-1870 PARIS CITY OF LIGHTS Cultural development of Paris… Avenue de l'Opéra, sun, winter morning (Camille Pissarro, 1897 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 20 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 20 10  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – S O C I E T Y & I N N O VAT I O N S 1861. OPERA GARNIER octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 21 21 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – ART & CULTURE 1855/67/78/89. UNIVERSAL EXHIBITIONS octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 22 22 11  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITIONS octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 23 23 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE DEVELOPMENT OF URBANISM & ARCHITECTURE Baron Haussmann’s is commissioned to transform the city of Paris known for its overcrowding, insalubrity and susceptibility to epidemics , into a model of urban planning and hygiene. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 24 24 12  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE 1861 DEVELOPMENT OF COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 25 25 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E 1895 DEVELOPMENT OF CINEMATOGRAPHY The Lumière brothers, Auguste and Louis Lumière, invented the cinematograph, a device that enabled films to be projected. This marked the beginning of cinema. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 26 26 13  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE ART NOUVEAU - ART DECO octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 27 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE ART NOUVEAU - ART DECO 1890 (Nouveau) 1910’S (Déco) ART NOUVEAU ART DECO End of 19th century Appeared in the 1910’s and flourished in the 1920’s. Reaction to excesses of industrialisation - mass production was considered to be soulless & unimaginative & cheap Died out in the 1930’s. A reaction to Art Nouveau. quality… A return to simplicity & sobriety. Advocating a return to crafsmanship to rediscover a taste for beauty in everyday objects with a decorative aestheticism. Art Nouveau is based on the aesthetics of curved lines, and precedes Art Deco and the Roaring Twenties. Artistic expression: Undulating shapes Artistic expression: Géometric lines Arabesques Flowery curves Refinement Symmetry Exuberance Trees, flowers, insects & animals as inspiration Use of new materials such as iron and glass octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 28 28 14  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE ART NOUVEAU Plant motifs were adopted from the decorative arts to create utilitarian objects such as furniture & tableware but also for jewelry or even architecture. METRO VASES ARCHITECTURE CERAMIC JEWELLERY STATIONS Emile Gallée Buildings by Jules Alexandre Bigot René Lalique Hector Guimard Flower silhouettes Lavirotte Exuberant Combination of Abstract vegetalism sometimes erotic precious metals, symbolism stones & floral corollas octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 29 29 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE ART MOVEMENTS (painters) IMPRESSIONISTS FROM IMPRESSIONISM CUBISM ABSTRACT ART 1874 TO CUBISM Breaking down vision of Elimination of all figurative Variations of colours Juxtapoistion flat areas of reality through intellectual representation according to light vivid colour & simplified lines restructuring Form & colour give meaning Auguste Renoir Gauguin Shapes imposed the cube, to a state of mind Cézanne sphere & cylinder Kandinsky Claude Monet Picasso (Demoiselles Van Gogh d’Avignon) Inspired by Africa octobre 24 30 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 30 15  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS SOCIETAL INNOVATIONS FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 31 octobre 24 31 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – S O C I E T Y & I N N O VAT I O N S 1850-1914 PROFOUND SOCIETAL CHANGES octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 32 32 16  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1800-1850. INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION 1847: 233 GARMENT MAKERS IN PARIS EMPLOY OVER 7,000 WORKERS octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 33 33 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE 1840. RAILWAY EXPANSION Prosperous & brilliant period for French economy & society Le pont du chemin de fer à argenteuil (val d'oise) Claude Monet 1873 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 34 17  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1852. DISTRIBUTION DEVELOPMENT FROM 1850 CREATION OF "RETAIL SHOPKEEPERS" AND OPENING OF PARISIAN DEPARTMENT STORES: LE BON MARCHÉ 1852 LE PRINTEMPS 1855 LA SAMARITAINE 1865 LES GALERIES LAFAYETTE 1896 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 35 35 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1852. LE BON MARCHÉ octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 36 18  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1860. VELOCIPEDE/BICYCLE A succession of inventions will profoundly change the way of life such as the bicycle. Pierre Michaux, a French blacksmith, is often credited with making the first modern pedal bicycle. This contributed to the bicycle's growing popularity as a means of transport. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 37 37 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1886. AUTOMOBILE Karl Benz invented the three- wheeled Motor Car, known as the “Motorwagen”, in 1866 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 38 38 19  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1877. THE TELEPHONE Inventor Alexander Graham Bell –> allowed people to speak to each other over long distances octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 39 39 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1877. THE PHONOGRAPH Inventor Thomas Edison 1st device capable of both recording and reproducing sound, paving the way for the music and entertainment industries. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 40 40 20  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1879. THE LIGHTBULB Inventor Thomas Edison Incandescent electrical lightbulb –> improving the quality of life octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 41 41 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1989 EIFFEL TOUR o c t o b r e16/10/2024 24 F A S H I O N H I S T O©jayneestevecure-2021 RY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 42 42 42 21  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1989 EIFFEL TOUR Named after the engineer Gustave Eiffel – entrance to Universal Exhibition octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 43 43 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1903. THE AIRPLANE The Wright brothers birth of aviation US octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 44 44 22  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS FASHION SYSTEM EVOLUTION FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 45 octobre 24 45 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS PRINCESS EUGENIE 1826-1920 Empress Eugénie & birth of Haute Couture. A major customer of Charles Frederick Worth. The original portrait of Empress Eugénie in Court Dress by Franz Xaver Winterhalter was the first official portrait made by the artist for Eugénie. Painted around 1853 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 46 46 23  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS PRINCESS EUGENIE The reign of the crinoline Empress Eugénie helped popularize many of the fashion trends of her time. She introduced the fashion for crinolines, voluminous petticoats that gave dresses a bell-shaped silhouette. She also favored wide- brimmed hats and decorated fans. Empress Eugénie holding her son, on the steps of the Château de Compiègne terrace October 1856 (photo Olympe Aguado) octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 47 47 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS 1868. Chambre syndicale de la confection et de la couture pour dames et fillettes Organizing & protecting the Couture profession octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 48 48 24  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS 1870-1900 THE CORSET & NEW «S» LINE Changes occuring in fashion for women would reflect societal changes: Crinolines and tournures were gradually abandonned The corset was adopted by all to give the S shape Women were more active and fashion gradually liberated the body Skirts lost volume However the skin was still hidden to a maximum octobre 24 49 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 49 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS 1870-1900 THE “S” LINE A new shape to replacing the crinoline A new slenderer silhouette with a sinuous line: General line of dresses was corseted Protruding bust Chest flattened and drawn up under the throat Waist strangled Bottom was tilted back. octobre 24 50 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 50 25  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS THE GIRDLE REPLACES THE CORSET A pivotal period for fashion The female silhouette became more fluid & flexible. The waistline became less pronounced Looser & less voluminous skirts announce the end of the petticoat The corset is gradually abandonned (largely due to the couturier Paul Poiret) Corset replaced by the Girdle* supple & lighter undergarment Form-fitting foundation garment encircling the lower torso for shape & support The bra is invented giving more freedom of https://www.andreaschewedesign.com/blog/corset- movement history-1900-to-present octobre 24 51 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 51 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS WOMEN'S WEAR Belle Epoque octobre 24 52 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 52 26  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS 1870-1900 ESTABLISHMENT OF READY-TO-WEAR Democratising fashion The 2nd industrial evolution facilitated manufacturing clothes in large quantities inducing the birth & development of Ready-to-Wear fashion. During 2nd half of the 19th century, department stores were established in Paris such as the Samaritaine & Le Bon Marché. A new way to buy R2W making fashion accessible to a larger audience. The founder of Le Bon Marché innovated distribution in several ways establishing a new way to buy: Fixed prices Products layed out and merchandized Possibility of exchanging articles Distance selling First sales octobre 24 53 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 53 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS #3. COUTURIERS LIST/FOCUS FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 54 octobre 24 54 27  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS #1. CHARLES FREDERICK WORTH 1825-1895 MAISON 1858 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 55 octobre 24 55 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS 1858 Charles Frederick Worth The origins of Haute Couture octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 56 56 28  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS MAISON GAGELIN octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 57 57 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS HOUSE OF WORTH key events 1858 Worth established his dressmaking company 1860 Appointed Court couturier by Empress Eugénie 1865 Elisabeth of Austria painted wearing Worth crinoline by Winterhalter 1868 Chambre Syndicale de la Couture is established 1870 Collapse of the 2nd French Empire – Worth salon closes for a year 1870 3rd Republic is establised (lasts until 1940 & German invasion) 1871 House of Worth employs 1200 staff (seamstresses, embroiders, models, cutters, sales staff…) 1890 Belle Epoque period or Guilded Age (USA) 1895 Worth designs Consuelo Vanderbilt’s wedding dress 1895 Death of Charles Worth, his sons pursue the business 1901 Gaston-Lucien Worth employs Paul Poiret (1879-1944) who remains for 2 years, attempting to modernise the Worth designs Elizabeth of Austria wearing a Worth ball gown By Winterhalter 1865 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 58 58 29  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS CHARLES & MARIE WORTH octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 59 59 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS HOUSE OF WORTH Eugénie a leading patron Princesse Eugénie By Winterhalter 1855 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 60 60 30  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S THE WORTH BOUTIQUE 7 AVENUE DE LA PAIX PARIS octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 61 61 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS THE WORTH STORE o c t o b r e16/10/2024 24 62 62 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 62 31  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S o c t o b r e16/10/2024 24 F A S H I O N H I S T O©jayneestevecure-2021 RY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 63 63 63 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 64 64 32  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 65 65 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 66 66 33  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS 1895 DEATH OF CHARLES F.WORTH 3 generations àf the House of Worth Charles Frédéric Worth (1825-1895) Sons Gaston (1853-1924) & Jean Philippe (1856- 1926) Gaston's children Jean Charles (1881-1962) & Jacques (1882-1941). octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 67 67 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS HOUSE OF WORTH AFTER CHARLES… House of Worth 1930 House of Worth 1940 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 68 68 34  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS #2. JACQUES DOUCET 1853-1929 MAISON 1875 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 69 octobre 24 69 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S JACQUES DOUCET 1853-1929 Jacques Doucet was a major French couturier, collector and patron of the arts, and a leading figure in Parisian artistic and literary life from 1880-1920. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 70 70 35  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S JACQUES DOUCET As the owner of a store inherited from his mother on Rue de la Paix, Jacques Doucet established one of Paris's early haute couture houses. His affluent clientele, consisting of actresses and women of high society such as Réjane, Sarah Bernhardt, Liane de Pougy, and La Belle Otéro, not only brought him wealth but also enabled him to indulge in his passions as an art enthusiast and bibliophile. He played a role in shaping the career of Paul Poiret from 1898 to 1901 and had Madeleine Vionnet as one of his assistants. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 71 71 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S JACQUES DOUCET Art Collector Through his successful couturier business, Jacques Doucet amassed an impressive art collection, including paintings, sculptures, furniture, marquetry, prints, and books. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 72 octobre 24 72 36  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S 1880 1900 1910 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 73 73 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS JAQUES DOUCET designs octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 74 74 37  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS View of Jacques Doucet's Saint-James studio in Neuilly- sur-Seine, published in the Illustration in 1938 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 75 75 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS #3. JOHN REDFERN 1820-1895 MAISON 1881 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 76 octobre 24 76 38  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS 1881 JOHN REDFERN 1855 John founded his British tailoring company Redfern limited was established in Cowes on the Isle of Wight. 1881 John Redfern developed his company into a prominent Couture House through the subsidiary he opened in Paris. Other branches were opened in London (1878) & New York (1884) functioning as tailors. The house remained active between 1855-1932 and then 1936-1940 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 77 77 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS JOHN REDFERN IN HIS ATELIER octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 78 78 39  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S HOUSE OF REDFERN From Sporting occasions to Couture octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 79 79 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 80 80 40  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 81 octobre 24 81 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS 1882 HOUSE OF REDFERN « Dressmaker By Royal Appointment » for Queen Victoria octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 82 82 41  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS 1895 HOUSE OF REDFERN Became a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 83 83 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS 1915 JOHN REDFERN Internationalisation octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 84 42  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS REDFERN A balance between Parisian chic and English sobriety. 'Rugby’. Hobble-skirted suit. April 1914 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 85 85 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS 1915 JOHN REDFERN Day dress – woman’s suit octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 86 86 43  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS 1916 REDFERN Uniform for the Red Cross octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 87 87 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S 1920’s REDFERN Company launched perfumes SOIR HINDOU & OCEAN d’AMOIUR octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 88 88 44  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS The house closed in the 1930s octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 89 89 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS #4. JEANNE PAQUIN 1869-1936 MAISON 1891 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 90 octobre 24 90 45  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S JEANNE PAQUIN 1869-1936 Jeanne Paquin was one of the first women to lead a renowned Haute Couture house, making a significant impact on the fashion of the Belle Époque with her innovative creations and sharp marketing acumen. Jeanne Paquin was the 1st « Queen » of French fashion, Couturier of the Belle Epoque. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 91 91 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS JEANNE PAQUIN RUE DE LA PAIX o c t o b r e16/10/2024 24 F A S H I O N H I S T O©jayneestevecure-2021 RY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 92 92 92 46  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 93 93 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S 1891 LAUNCH OF THE PAQUIN COUTURE HOUSE FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 octobre 24 94 94 47  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS PAQUIN COUTURE HOUSE 1910 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 octobre 24 95 95 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAQUIN COUTURE HOUSE 120 FAUBOURG ST HONORE 1891 Day dress Evening Suit Circa 1890 late 1890’s FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 octobre 24 96 96 48  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS JEANNE PAQUIN BALL GOWN Circa 1895 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 97 97 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 98 98 49  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S #5. LES SŒURS CALLOT 1857-1927 (Marie) MAISON 1895 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 99 octobre 24 99 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS THE CALLOT SISTERS 1895-1930 Marie Callot-Bertrand Marthe Callot Regina Callot-Tennyson-Chantrel Josephine Callot-Crimon octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 100 100 50  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS SŒURS CALLOT octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 101 101 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 102 102 51  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS SŒURS CALLOT Success during the 1910’s & 1920’s Lace, trimmings, gold & silver lamé for evening gowns. Exotic details octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 103 103 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS Circa 1912 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 104 104 52  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS "Without the Callot sisters I would have made Fords, with them I made Rolls-Royces » Madeleine Vionnet octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 105 105 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS CALLOT SISTERS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITIONS PARIS 1900-1925 SAN FRANCISCO 1917 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 106 106 53  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS PERFUMES 1923 Bel Oiseau Bleu 1923 Chichicallot 1923 Il Pleut des Baisers 1923 La Fille du Roi de Chine 1923 Le Louis D'Or 1940s Jeep 1947 Dieu du Jour 1947 Bao 1947 Mariage D'Amour FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 107 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS RUE DE LA PAIX end of the 19th Century o c t o b r e16/10/2024 24 F A S H I O N H I S T O©jayneestevecure-2021 RY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 108 108 108 54  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS #6. PAUL POIRET 1879-1944 MAISON 1903 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 109 octobre 24 109 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS PAUL POIRET FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 110 55  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS PAUL POIRET 1879-1944 Liberating the female body from the corset Paul Poiret was a prominent French fashion designer who revolutionized the fashion industry in the early 20th century. He was born on April 20, 1879, in Paris, France, and grew up in a creative environment. His father was a textile merchant, which exposed him to the world of fabrics and fashion at a young age. Poiret's parents apprenticed him to an umbrella maker. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 111 111 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET Beginnings Poiret's parents apprenticed him to an umbrella maker. Paul Poiret's passion for fashion ignited when he ingeniously repurposed scraps of silk that remained from the cutting of umbrella patterns. With these remnants, he skillfully crafted miniature garments for a doll, a precious gift from one of his sisters. Paul Poiret | Parasol | Japanese octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 112 112 56  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS The house was particularly known for its suits and afternoon dresses , and later for its evening dresses and coats, furs, children's clothing, lingerie, corsages and trousseaux. MAISON LOUISE CHERUIT 16.10.24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 113 octobre 24 113 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS PAUL POIRET His mentor Jacques Doucet 1896 - 1901 Went to work for famous Maison Doucet `` Paul Poiret was hired as a fashion designer by Doucet in 1898, Learned to cut and drape Acquired sewing techniques Emulated Doucet’s style: sophistication, elegance & modernity Rose to become workshop manager octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 114 114 57  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET Trained at the House of Worth 1901-1903 After his military service he goes to work for Maison Worth Jean-Philippe and Gaston, the 2 Worth sons, had taken over from their father, the founder of haute couture Poiret found himself in the midst of a couture house that clung to outdated traditions and operated in a somewhat confined atmosphere. Poiret stirred up controversy with his daring fashion choices. His minimalist dresses and an innovative "Chinese" coat called Confucius, crafted from a mere folded panel of woolen fabric, became a cause for scandal. The Maison Worth did not appreciate Poiret’s moderninity and they parted their ways House of Worth by Jea-Philippe 1901 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 115 115 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET 1908 establishes his own Haute Couture House octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 116 116 58  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 117 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET a family man Paul Poiret married Denise Boulet (1886-1982) in Paris on October 5, 1905. The couple had five children: Rosine (born 1906), Perrine (circa 1910), Martine (1911) , Colin (1912) and Gaspard (circa 1913). octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 118 118 59  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET 1906 Abandons the corset Paul Poiret founded his own fashion house and began designing clothes that would revolutionize fashion. He was one of the first couturiers to abandon the corset, introducing softer, more flowing dresses. He relaunches an Empire dress style. He also innovated by introducing bright colors and exotic patterns inspired by Japanese and Persian art. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 119 119 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET Orientalism octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 120 120 60  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET Oriental Parisian Parties octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 121 121 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS PAUL POIRET extravagance octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 122 61  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET silhouette simplification octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 123 123 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 124 124 62  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET silhouette simplification octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 125 125 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS PAUL POIRET orientalism octobre 24 126 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 126 63  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET orientalism octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 127 127 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS Poiret the precursor Promotional trips abroad octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 128 128 64  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS HOLLYWOOD JOAN CRAWFORD 1927 MAE WEST 1927 octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 129 129 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS ATELIER MARTINE 1911 Poiret opens a retail store in Paris called "Les Ateliers de Martine," where he sold not only his own designs, but also furniture, fabrics, and art objects. The store was decorated in an exotic orientalist style, which was another first for the time. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 130 130 65  16/10/2024 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 131 131 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS PARFUMS ROSINE Précurseur diversification octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 132 132 66  16/10/2024 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS T h e e n d of a fa b u l o u s s to r y At the end of November 1929, the Paul Poiret company closes due to the economic crisis. octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 133 133 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET A family man… octobre 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 134 134 67  16/10/2024 THANKS FOR YOUR ATTENTION ! I G @ J AY N E FA S H I O N C O N S U LTA N C Y octobre 24 CONTEMPORARY FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 135 135 68