Forensic Midterm PDF

**SENSITIZED MATERIALS** **Sensitized Material** Refers to the film and photographic paper that basically composed of emulsion containing [Silver Halides] suspended in gelatin and coated on a transparent or reflective support. **Emulsion** - part of the film or photographic paper which contains...

**SENSITIZED MATERIALS** **Sensitized Material** Refers to the film and photographic paper that basically composed of emulsion containing [Silver Halides] suspended in gelatin and coated on a transparent or reflective support. **Emulsion** - part of the film or photographic paper which contains silver grains that is sensitive to light. **Photographic Film** Negative paper, cavity Light sensitive surfaces Contains minute grains of silver halide suspended on animal gelatin and coated with celluloid materials A material necessary to produce a photograph (positive print). Has emulsion that is coated with opaque material like paper. **Parts of a Film** 1\. **Emulsion** consists of crystals of light-sensitive compounds evenly distributed throughout the plastic base material. **Silver halide emulsions** are universally sensitive to the ultraviolet radiations and some wavelength of blue light. \- **Gelatin** - holds the crystals in emulsion. II\. **Gray or Anti-halation Backing** - designed to hold back the light and prevents halation. -placed between the emulsion and the plastic base of a film. -prevent whatever light that passes through the emulsion and reflected by the base back to the emulsion which forms a halo. III\. **Base** - serve as a support to the emulsion which are made of plastic material. **Common Film Formats and Sizes** O **35mm film:** This is the most widely used film format and is known for its versatility and accessibility. It is used in a variety of cameras and is easy to find. O **120 film:** This format is used in in medium-format cameras and is known for its higher resolution and larger negatives. O **4x5 film:** This is a large-format film used in specialized cameras and is known for its exceptional image quality and artistic expression. **Types of Film** A. **According to Use** **A.A. Black and white film** - usually represented by a prefix or suffix \"Pan\" or \"Ortho\" and generally used in black and white photography. EX: Ortholith film, Tri X-Pan, Pan X-plus **A.B. Colored film** - can be divided into two (Negative and reversal type) **B.1. Negative Colored Film** Negative colored film is the most popular type of colored film and is widely used in general photography. It is easy to find and relatively inexpensive, and it can be processed at any standard photo lab. **B.2. Reversal Colored Film** Reversal colored film, also known as slide film, produces high-quality images but is more expensive and less versatile than negative film. It is known for its vibrant colors and is often used for artistic and creative purposes. Slide film requires precise exposure settings to achieve the best results, and it is typically processed using the E-6 process. **B. According to Spectral Sensitivity** (the responsiveness of the film emulsion to the different wavelength of the light course) **B.A. Monochromatic Film** - This is the film that is sensitive to a single color of light (for white and black) O **Blue Sensitive Film** A film specially treated that make more sensitive to blue rays of light O **Ultra-Violet Sensitive Film** This is suitable for ultra-violet photography. **B.B. Panchromatic Film** - This is sensitive to ultra violet rays and all colors especially to blue and violet **B.C. Orthochromatic Film (Kodalith Film)** Film sensitive to all colors except red **B.D. Infrared Film** - A special type of film which is sensitive to infrared and ultraviolet radiation **B.E. X-Ray Film** A film which is sensitive to x-ray region of the electromagnetic spectrum **Film Speed (Emulsion Speed)** The sensitivity of the film to light or the extent to which the emulsion is sensitive to light. **Indications (Measuring Tool)** [American Standard Association (ASA)] -Expressed in arithmetical value -The speed in numbers is directly proportional to the sensitivity of the material -A film with an arithmetical value of 400 is four times as fast as one with a speed of 100 [Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN)] -Expressed in logarithmic value -An increase of 3 degree doubles the sensitivity of the film [International Standard Organization (ISO)] -Expressed in arithmetical and logarithmic value -The higher the ISO number, the more sensitive the film to light and the pictures can be taken indoors or in dim light condition **Color Films** Basically, the structure of color film is almost the same as black and white film except that the emulsion layer consists of three layers, stacked one on top of the other. This is a multi-layer emulsion coated on the same support or base. - **Top layer**-is sensitive to blue light only green and red light passes through it without exposing the color-blind handles. - **Yellow Filter (Carey Lea Silver)** - suspended in gelatin is coated between the top and second layer to absorb any penetrating blue light but freely passes green and red light. - **Middle layer** - orthochromatic which is sensitive to blue and green, but not to red. So, the red light passes on to the top bottom emulsion layer. - **Bottom layer** - panchromatic, sensitive to blue and red. **Photographic Paper** \- sensitized material that will record the visible image in the final development and become the photograph. **Positive/Print** -A photographic image printed on paper, generally a positive image made from a negative -A photograph of a model that appears in print (magazine or newspaper) **Basic Layers of Printing Paper** **Base**-made of paper which must be chemically pure to ensure that it will not interfere with the chemical processes to which the emulsion is subjected. -Available either in a single or double weight paper **Baryta layer** a gelatin layer containing baryta crystal to increase the reflectivity of the paper. **Emulsion layer** - contains minute silver halides suspended with gelatin which needs only to reproduce the total range of negative. **Types of Photographic Paper** **A. According to type of emulsion** O **Chloride**-slow speed suited for contact printing; the size of the positive print is the same as the size of the negative used. Sensitivity to light is low and give blue black tones when properly developed. O **Bromide** fast speed and is recommended for projection, printing and enlarging process. This is one of the most ideal photo papers used for police photography. Will give a black tone when properly developed. O **Chloro**-**bromide** multi speed and could be used both in contact printing and enlarging. **B. According to physical characteristics** **B.1. Weight** **Light Weight**-designed for high flexibility and when paper thickness is not of consideration. Intended for purposes, which involves folding. **Single Weight** papers used for small prints or which are need to be mounted on solid and fine details necessary in the production. Used in ordinary photographic purposes. **Double Weight** - generally used for large prints because they stand up under rough treatment. **B.2. Surface Texture** **Glossy paper**-designed for fine details and brilliant image formation **Semi-mate paper** - texture which obscure the fine details **Rough papers** - used for large prints or where breadth rather than detail is necessary **B.3. Color** **White** - cold effect; better used in police photography **Cream** - preferred for pictorial effect, portraits, landscape or when warmth effect is desired **Buff papers** - prepare for tone prints **B.4. According to Contrast (Grade)** **Velox No. 0**-used for printing extremely contrast negative or extremely exposed film. **Velox No. 1**-used for high contrast negative (over exposed film) **Velox No. 2** used for normal exposed film **Velox No. 3**- used for negative with weak contrast (under exposed) **Velox No. 4**- used to provide sufficient contrast to compensate for very thin or weak negatives. It is useful imprinting which high contrast is desired **Velox No. 5** - for flat negative that are unprintable **CHEMICAL PROCESSING** **Developing Chemicals** 1\. **Reducing Agent** - most important chemical in any developing solution. It is the one that reduces the exposed halides into visible metallic silver. The two chemicals mostly used are hydroquinone (works slowly and produces high contrast) and metol (fast and develops good detail in the shadow areas of an image). For general purpose, these two chemicals are combined in order to obtain the best qualities 2\. **Accelerators** - In order to reduce silver halides, most reducing agents must be in an alkaline state. Those reducing agents mentioned above are either neutral or slightly acid. As a result, an alkali must be added to the developing solution. Such alkali or accelerator serves a double purpose: a.) they energize the reducing agents; and b.) they soften and swell the emulsion to permit the developer to penetrate deeply and quickly. - Sodium Carbonate is used in medium contrast developers. - Sodium Hydroxide is used for very high contrast and Borax is used for low and fine grain. 3\. **Preservatives** A solution of water reducing agents and accelerator would develop an image but would deteriorate rapidly because of oxidation. That is oxygen would combine with the reducing agents to sap its strength. The image would also be stained. The chemical usually used is sodium sulfite - it is called preservative. It prevents stain and makes the developing solution more stable and longer lasting. 4\. **Restrainers** a developer mixed with the chemicals listed above would \"overwork\" to the point where it reduces the unexposed silver halides. This would cause an over-all haziness of the called chemical fog. The developing action would be too fast to be controlled accurately. As a result, a fourth ingredient called restrainer must be included in the formula. As the name implies this chemical restrains the action of the exposed areas of the film and permits control of density and contrast. Potassium bromide is the agent generally used or his purpose. **Stop Bath (Rinse Bath)** \- is an acid rinse used to stop development by neutralizing unwanted developer when processing the film \- this prevents the carryover of one chemical into another during development **Three (3) forms:** a\) Water rinse bath b\) Acid rinse bath c\) Hardening rinse bath **Fixing Chemicals** Fixing is the removal of the unexposed halides which has the effect of making the developed image permanent. It is accomplished by treating the film in a chemical that makes the unexposed halides soluble in water so they may be washed out of the emulsion. 1\. **Sodium thiosulfate** - basic chemical commonly called \"hypo\" is the one which dissolves the unexposed silver halides. 2\. **Acetic acid (28%)** - When the negative is removed from the developer, the emulsion is saturated with the solution. Even if it is given a water rinse, some developer will remain and continue its action. As the films come in contact with plain hypo, the remaining developer starts to oxidize, causing stains. To prevent this acetic acid is needed to the fixing bath to neutralize the developer. 3\. **Sodium sulfate** the addition of acetic acid neutralizes the developer but causes the hypo to break down, liberating sulfur. Sodium sulfite is added because it combines with the sulfur to form new hypo. In this respect, sodium sulfite is a preservative just as it is in a developing solution. 4\. **Potassium alum -** The emulsion swells and becomes soft during development and will continue in that condition during fixation. This makes susceptible to scratches and if the solution temperature is too high, the emulsion may \"frill\" or peel away from the edges of the film base. Potassium alum is added to the fixing bath because it has the ability to toughen or harden the emulsion. 5\. **Boric acid**-Adding the hardener to the fixing bath causes a milky sludge to form and reduce the life of the solution. Boric acid is added to slow the action and prolong the usefulness of the fixing bath. **Film Development** The theory of film development refers to the principle in photography that explains how the latent image in the exposed film is converted into a negative image (visible image). This theory provides that there are six (6) stages of chemical processing needed to make the latent image become visible such that it can be printed to produce à photograph. **Stages of Film Development:** 1\. **Pre-development Water Rinse (optional)** - soaking the film in water for 2 to 3 minutes while agitating the water container every after 20 seconds. 2\. **Developing (Actual)** converting the exposed image on the film into actual image. Exposed film affects the silver halides but the change is invisible. Developing enables the invisible image into form. This is performed by soaking the film in the developer (developing solution). The chemical contents are: a\. **Reducer**-metol-hydroquinone b\. **Accelerator**- borax, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide c\. **Restrainer**-potassium bromide d\. **Preservative** - sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfate. 3\. **Stop Bath (Rinse Bath)** removal of the traces of developer as well as it helps in the removal of excess or undeveloped silver halides. This process stops development by neutralizing the developer. It is also necessary to minimize the staining effect of the developer and at the same time conserve to some extent the strength of the fixing solution. The three forms of rinse bath are: a\. [Water Rinse Bath] b\. [Acid Rinse Bath] c\. [Hardening Rinse Bath] 4\. **Fixing Bath/ Fixing** Even after developing, the image is still invisible because the silver halides are still present in the emulsion. Fixing bath is required to loosen the silver halides from the unexposed halides so they can be washed away. This stage also removes the unexposed and undeveloped halides by converting them to soluble salts which may be washed from the emulsion. Fixing also makes the image permanent in white light. Ingredients are: a\. [Fixer] - hypo (sodium thiosulfate) b\. [Neutralizer] - acid (acetic acid) c\. [Preservative] - sodium sulfite d\. [Hardener potassium alum] **5. Washing** - The final part of the processing cycle, which removes the residual chemicals and soluble silver compounds from the emulsion and reveals the image. 6\. **Drying** - Hang the film to dry in a dust-free environment. The process can be speed up by placing the film in a dryer. [Phase of drying are:] a\. removal of excess water, and b\. drying by evaporation or forced air **Processing Black and White Film** 1\. Load film onto spool. NOTA BENE: [Make sure you do this in complete darkness.] It is important in to have few practice sessions before attempting it with the real film. 2\. Place developer into the tank. 3\. Start timer. 4\. Keep developer at 20°C. 5\. Empty tank when timer indicates. 6\. Pour in stop bath solution. 7\. Empty stop bath after 30 seconds. 8\. Pour fixer solution, set timer and agitate. 9\. Empty fixer. 10\. Remove film solution from the tank and leave the film on the spool. 11\. Wash the tank. 12\. Remove spool from the tank. 13\. Carefully film from the spool. 14\. Write the film being careful not to deposit foreign material onto film. 15\. Dry film. **Printing into Photographic Paper** **KINDS OF PRINTING:** 1\. **Contact Printing** - The emulsion side of the negative is exposed in contact with the emulsion of the sensitized paper, producing a print image of the same size as that of the negative. 2\. **Projection Printing** - The image in the negative may be enlarged or reduced. When the image print is larger than the size of the negative, we have an enlargement, while the reverse is called reduction. **Equipment for Film Processing** - Tank or Tray - Developing Reel - Opener for Film Cartridge - Scissors - Thermometer - Timer - Funnel - Photographic Sponge - Film Clips - Bottles for storing mixed solutions **Film Photography** Despite the advent of digital photography, film photography is arguably the best way to capture image because of its incredible ability to record detail in a very stable form. **35mm SLR Camera** - most popular film camera Photographic films should always be kept in cool place, out of direct sunlight, low humidity, and away from all sources of chemical fumes **Types of films based on speed** **Slow films (ISO 32)** - best for scenes where the light is bright - have brighter detail and give sharpest image -ideal for subjects that need to be enlarged while still retaining a lot of detail and a fine-grained image **Medium-speed film (ISO 200)** suitable for wide range of different subjects and lighting conditions -used for scenarios with less lights. **Fast film (ISO 400)** - used for low-light situations where less-sensitive, slower films may result in underexposure **Digital Photography** It is the use of digital camera which is equipped with an electronic light sensitive CCD or CMOS chip that converts the focused image into an electrical signal, which then converts into a digital form using binary codes. **Types of digital camera** 1\. **Compact digital camera (point and shoot camera)** a small, portable camera that is easy to use. It typically has a fixed lens, a small image sensor, and limited manual controls. Compact cameras are designed for casual photography and are often used for everyday snapshot. 2\. **DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) Camera -** is a high-end digital camera that uses a mirror and prism system to view the scene through the lens. It has interchangeable lenses, a larger image sensor, and advanced features like manual focus and exposure control. DSLRs are designed for professional and serious amateur photographers who want high-quality images and more creative control. 3\. **Bridge Camera** - combines the features of a compact camera and a DSLR. It has a fixed lens, a small image sensor, and advanced features like image stabilization and manual focus. Bridge cameras are larger than compact cameras but smaller than DSLRs, making them a good choice for those who want more control over their photography without the bulk of a DSLR. 4\. **Electronic Viewfinder (EVF) Camera** a type of digital camera that uses an electronic viewfinder to preview the scene instead of an optical viewfinder. It is often used in mirrorless cameras, which eliminate the need for a mirror and prism system, allowing for a smaller body size. 5\. **Digital Rangefinder Camera** a specialized type of camera that uses a rangefinder mechanism to measure distances for precise focus. It is designed for specific applications like distant photography and is often used in professional settings. **6. Line-Scan Camera** - a specialized type of camera designed for capturing highresolution images at high speeds. It uses a single pixel image sensor and is often used in industrial and scientific applications, such as inspecting materials or capturing high-speed events. (**[Fast moving object]**) 7\. **Spy Camera** also known as a hidden camera, is a type of camera designed to be discreetly hidden in various objects or locations. It is often used for surveillance or covert photography. 8\. **Polaroid Camera** a type of instant camera that produces physical prints of the images taken. It uses a special type of film that develops the image immediately after exposure, allowing for instant sharing and display. **Advantages of Digital Photography** Allows shooting in both color and black and white without changing film; Allows user to see image directly through the lens; Has LCD monitor that can be used for framing shots or reviewing pictures already taken; Provides high degree of control over exposure, focusing, color balance, and other creative functions; Ability to shoot video; Ability to delete unwanted pictures; Offers automatic exposure bracketing (AEB); and Can take as may photographs in one go as the memory card will allow. **Disadvantages of Digital Photography** Not as sensitive to light as film-based cameras; Requires more light to make an exposure; Shutter lag can lead to missed opportunities; The LCD viewfinder can sometimes be hard to see on a bright day; and Camera battery is limited due to the abundance of computerized parts. **Digital Photography in Police Work** The important issue regarding the use of digital cameras refers to the security and integrity of the electronic image from the time it was taken at the crime scene to the investigative process and the presentation in court. It seems relatively easy to enhance the digital image or remove an object from it, thus raising the issue of digital image manipulation. To address this issue; An audit trail should be initiated as soon as a digital image is recorded that will remain with the image from its beginning until its final disposal. O Images should be burned in an uncompressed format to a writable CD in a Write Once, Read Many (WORM) format. O Information about the date and time the CD should be recorded, including the person making the recording. Alterations or enhancements of every image should be recorded in the sequence they are performed. **ESSENTIALS OF PHOTOGRAPHY** In this week, we will be discussing exposure, exposure controls, exposure triangle, focus, depth of field, photography tips, and ways to optimize the quality of crime scene photography. TO DO LIST: Please do the following in a sequential manner. 1\. READ the notes on the introduction of forensic photography. 2\. ANSWER the activities as provided by the instructor during the course of the discussion. **Exposure** The amount of light received by a photographic emulsion or imaging chip. The product of the intensity of the light, the aperture size, and the shutter speed. **Exposure Controls** - Shutter Speed Control Determines the length of time that the film is exposed to light Numbers correspond to a fraction of a second -- **Lens Opening** Denoted by \"f\" number. The smaller the \"f number, the bigger the opening and vice versa **Exposure Triangle** \- The exposure triangle is a fundamental concept in photography that explains the relationship between the three main elements that control exposure: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO\... **Elements of Exposure Triangle** 1\. **Aperture**: A wider aperture allows more light to reach the sensor, while a narrower aperture reduces the amount of light. **f/0.95-f/1.4**-ideal for any kind of low-light photography **f/1.8-f/2.0**-for portraiture and other similar types of photography **f/2.8-f/4**-for travel, sports, and wildlife photography **f/5.6 f/8** starting point for most landscape and architectural photography \- ideal for documentary and portrait photography f/11-f/16-for macro photography or landscape photography **f/22 and smaller** - for more depth of field **2. Shutter Speed:** The shutter speed is the length of time the camera\'s shutter remains open when taking a photograph. A faster shutter speed (e.g.. 1/1000 second) freezes motion and reduces the amount of light reaching the sensor, while a slower shutter speed (e.g., 1 second) allows more light to enter but can cause motion blur. **Shutter speed** **1/2000** -Freezing birds in flight **1/1000** Freezing cars and other motor vehicles **1/500** Freezing bikes and runners **1/250** Freezing slow-moving animals or people walking **1/8** Blurring fast-flowing water **1/4** Blurring people walking **1/2** Blurring slow-moving water 3\. **ISO**: ISO refers to the sensitivity of the camera\'s sensor to light. A lower ISO value (e.g., ISO 100) indicates lower sensitivity and is typically used in bright light conditions, while a higher ISO value (e.g., ISO 1600) increases the sensor\'s sensitivity, allowing for faster shutter speeds or smaller apertures in low light conditions. However, using a high ISO can also introduce more noise or graininess in the image. **ISO 25-**slowest speed that natural condition will permit, for best color and sharpness **ISO 100 to ISO 200** for general purpose **ISO 100**-slow speed film needs sufficient light and low shutter speed has fine grains of silver halides produce sharp image **ISO 200**-twice as fast and as sensitive as ISO 100 has large grains produce large sharp image **ISO 400**- for dim light or with moving subject **ISO 1000** - and up for extremely low light conditions or for fast moving objects **Focus** -Defined as the physical point at which rays of the light from a lens converge to form a properly defined image of the subject. -**In the court of law**, a clear and concise photograph makes the evidence much easier to understand. -**In crime scene photography**, medium and large crime scenes as well as individual items need to be captured. -**Focusing** is therefore critical to the work of a forensic photographer so that they can be admissible in court. **Points to consider:** - In close-up photographs, always find a focal point that can serve as a visual reference point and can be understood in court. - Use tripod for a close-up photograph as desired. - Use appropriate lens. **Depth of Field** -The distance measured from the nearest to the farthest object in apparent sharp focus when the lens is set or focused at particular distance. -Used to describe the distance that the investigator can move away from the subject and still maintain a sharp image. **Things to remember:** - Use small lens with a large \"f number. - Moving further away from the subject increases\' depth of field, but distorts the size of the image. - Set lens\' aperture at a higher number, but adjust shutter speed. - When the subject is moving, use fast shutter speed. - Telephoto lenses have considerably less depth than normal lenses. **Tips for taking better photos in crime scene photography** -Make sure that all necessary equipment is available and in good working condition. Ensure that the camera settings are correct. &Double check the ISO values from time to tome to ensure that it is recording the scene as intended. - ISO 100-bloodstains on clothing - ISO 400-capture bedroom where clothes are found - ISO 800 or 1600 - latent bloodstains treated with Luminol. -Check white balance setting prior to beginning every new photographic assignment. -Do not limit the number of photographs recorded during any investigation. -Get down on the subject\'s level for a better perspective -Use a plain background - avoid distractive background -Use flash outdoors - using flash can provide a balance between shadows and highlights caused by the bright sun. -Move in close to the subject to fill the viewfinder eliminates background distractions and shows off details in the subject. -Take some vertical photographs, especially when capturing mid-range photographs such as passageways, doorways, and staircases. -Lock focus, do not rely on auto-focus. -Move subject from the middle to allow a little creativity in the image composition, thus creating more interest in the subject. -Know flash\'s range. Flash range for many cameras is ten (10) feet or about four (4) steps away. -Study the effect of light on the subject. -Be a picture director. Pick location, add props, arrange people or try different viewpoints. -Maximize depth of field. Strive to ensure that the image in focus is a fair and accurate representation of the scene. **CRIME SCENE PHOTOGRAPHY (PART I)** This chapter discusses the methods and sequential photographing of the crime scene, as well as the standard operating procedure in crime scene photography. TO DO LIST: Please do the following in a sequential manner. 1\. READ the notes on the introduction of forensic photography. 2\. ANSWER the activities as provided by the instructor during the course of the discussion. **Three common method of documenting crime scene:** - Note-taking - Sketching - Photography **Photographing the crime scene** Its purpose is to give a documented record of the scene as it is observed. Take photographs of the scene as soon as possible upon arriving on the area. Record useful information in a series of photograph to enable viewer understand where and how crime was committed. Photographs of the broad area of the crime scene should be supplemented by closer shots of sections containing important detail. **Ranges of Photographs** **a. General View (Long Range)** \- taken to portray the areas as if a person is seeing it from the standing position - should be taken at eye level b\. **Medium View (Mid-range)** -portrays the crime scene from approximately ten (10) to twenty (20) feet of distance from the subject matter -taken in order to associate the crime scene with separate areas of the scene photographed c\. **Close-up View** -normally taken at approximately five (5) feet or less from the subject matter -directed to objects which could not effectively be seen in the long-range and mid-range photographs \- taken to show the extent of damage **Methods of Photographing Crime Scene** 1\. **Overlapping Method** \- a photographic method of taking series of photograph in a circular or clockwise direction, overlapping each other slightly to show the entire crime scene \- used if a single photograph cannot show the entire crime scene. 2\. **Progressive Method** -a photographic method of taking crime scene photographs starting from a fixed point. -each piece of evidence is taken from general to specific as the photographer moves towards it, and progressively getting closer. **Sequential Photographs of the Crime Scene** The following photographs should be taken or considered: a\. View of the exterior of the building/vehicle, with relation to other buildings/vehicles, roads, streets, etc. b\. Point of entry, outside and inside c\. Point of exit, outside and inside d\. Condition(s) of the crime scene e\. Area from which valuable articles were removed f\. Articles left at the scene g\. Trace evidence (hairs, fibers, and cigarette butts) h\. Tool marks and impressions of shoes or tire tracks i\. Fingerprints and footprints, as well as articles on which these prints may be found **Standard Operating Procedure of Crime Scene Photography (based on PNP Scene of the Crime Operation (SOCO) and Field Laboratory Work (FLW))** 1\. Photograph the entire or the general view to include nearby surroundings pertinent to the case, indicating case number, time, date, and initial of the photographer. 2\. Take an overlapping shot of the immediate scene from four different angles. 3\. Photograph the entrance and exit of the crime scene. 4\. Photograph the body (victim/s or suspect/s) showing the exact location, direction where it tends. After removal of the body, take a photograph of the scene with the white outline to indicate the place where the victim was lying. 5\. Take close-up photographs of the body showing the face for proper identification. 6\. Take mid-range and close-up photographs of all pieces of evidence found at the crime scene with a measuring tool or scale, if necessary, including the case number, date and initial of the photographer. 7\. Take close-up photographs of the bullet hole if there is any. 8\. Sketch the crime scene in the presence of the investigator to be signed by the latter to attest its authenticity. 9\. Record on the photographic logbook the weather condition, type of lens, film and camera used. 10\. Negatives and photographs should be placed in a plastic holder and put inside a white mailing envelope with proper case identification before filing in a steel cabinet.