Copy of CERAMICS REVIEWER 2024.pdf

Types of clay Earthenware - all-purpose, low temperature firing clay - 700°-1200°C - mainly used for all types of decorative ceramics, table and kitchenware. - bright decorating colours can be used to decorate as the firing temperature is relatively low - bright...

Types of clay Earthenware - all-purpose, low temperature firing clay - 700°-1200°C - mainly used for all types of decorative ceramics, table and kitchenware. - bright decorating colours can be used to decorate as the firing temperature is relatively low - bright colours burn away at high temperatures. Terracotta - all-purpose, low temperature firing clay - 700°-1200°C - orange to red coloured - usually used for pot-plant pots and tiles, decorative objects and kitchenware - underglazes need three solid coats to completely cover the red, or a white base coat can be applied Stoneware - a traditional, strong, high firing clay - ranges in colour from light brown to grey - 1200°-1300°C - generally used for kitchenware such as casserole dishes and overware Porcelain - fine-grained, soft, white clay - 1300°-1400°C - commonly used for delicate tableware - can maintain its strength yet be quite thin Construction methods Pinch The most simple form of hand made pottery 1. Roll out a ball of clay 2. Create a hole in the clay with your thumb 3. Pinch the basic shape of the pot 4. Refine the shape of the pot. 5. Add a little water or slip to smooth out cracks 6. Leave your pot to dry and decorate Coil A construction method used by building up sides of pots with successive rolls (coils) of clay. 1. Cut out a template of the shape of your pot with paper 2. Make the base using a sturdy slab of clay about the width of your thumb then smooth 3. Make a thick coil in your hand before rolling into a coil 4. Roll coils on table and make sure they are even and consistent (thumb width) 5. Score surface and apply slurry before attaching coils 6. Smooth and repeat, using template to guide the shape of your pot Bust The bust consists of the upper torso and head, originally used to represent important individuals. 1. Create two equally sized pinch pots 2. Connect together PROPERLY using 3 S’s 3. Create a coil pot for the bust and attach to chin 4. Using a skewer, pierce a hole through the coil pot under the chin 5. Start creating facial features and attaching to head (ALWAYS USE 3 S’S WHEN ATTACHING) 6. Smooth, refine and finish 7. Allow to dry before applying surface decoration Slab A construction technique in which clay is rolled into thin sheets and manipulated into shapes. 1. Prepare slabs using the method desired 2. Leave slabs in the open air until they become leather hard 3. Square up edges with a ruler and cut edges at a 45 degree angle to maximise surface contact at connection points 4. Make sure to slip and score all connections!!! 5. Reinforce the corners of the box with coils. 6. Make sure and add a coil to the last connection before the slab is placed 7. Square up edges using a sure-form tool 8. Cut the lid at a 45 degree angle so it does not fall inside the piece 9. Dry piece under plastic to avoid cracking at the joints Surface decoration Burnishing - polishing a pot by rubbing the surface with a smooth object - two methods: rubbing with polished stone or other smooth object and coating the pot with terra sigillata and rubbing it with a soft material such as a chamois leather Sprigs - a press-moulded clay piece added to leather-hard work - created using small sprig moulds made of bisque-firing clay, plaster, or any other material that can be carved or cast Oxides - strong colourants that act as a coloured glaze - colouring oxides can be added to glaze, underglaze, slips or directly to clay bodies - raw materials Incising/Stamping/Rolling - Incising - decorating technique that involves cutting linear designs into the clay surface at any stage from soft to bone dry - Stamping - ornamentation technique on the soft clat of a pot by repeatedly impressing a simple design previously carved on a bone or wooden tool. Fluting - a pottery that has a groove set of grooves forming decoration on its surface Inlay - a decorative technique where a pattern is carved into the clay at the leather-hard stage - excess scraped is washed away with a sponge to reveal the pattern Underglaze - decorative colours applied before the application of glaze - “paint for clay” Glaze - coat of semi-transparent colour applied to a painted surface - creates a gloss effect Crayons - pointed stick or pencil of coloured clay, chalk or wax, etc. used for drawing - for drawing directly onto bisque or fired glaze - thin layer of glaze is painted or sprayed over the whole work after the drawing Resist - Wax resist, wax emulsions, and actual melted wax itself are all used in pottery - to keep liquids like raw liquid glazes from adhering to the clay body of a pot The wheel throwing process 1. Preparing your clay Wedge clay and shape it into a ball - you need an orange sized amount of clay to start Dampen wheel and throw ball into centre Seal clay by gently tapping it while spinning the wheel 2. Centering Equal distribution of weight and pressure. Use your entire body to brace yourself, move the clay, don't allow the clay to move you. Start coning up and down at least two times After coning, the clay is in a ball on the middle of the wheel head. Put one hand on the side and one hand on the top. Use cold water to decrease friction and start the wheel moving. Starting with a centred piece of clay will greatly help to produce an effective piece of work. 3. Formation of the walls: Once it's centred, put your thumb or finger in the middle and push down into the ball, stopping about a 2cm from the wheel head. Slowly pull outwards, stretching the hole until the walls are about 2cm thick. 4. Bringing up the walls: Pinch the outside rim you've now created and with a steady hand, brace yourself with your body, begin to pull the walls up into a cylinder. 5. Shaping your cylinder: Lightly brace the rim while you use a wooden rib to apply even pressure to the inside, pushing the walls out slowly. 6. Finishing touches: Create the thickness of the walls to your satisfaction, remove any extra clay around the bottom that may add unnecessary weight. Smooth out your rim and remove from the wheel to dry or trim. 7. Cleaning: Thoroughly clean wheel, tools and pan Recycle any excess clay OH&S (Occupational Health and Safety) Ceramic Dust: Avoid creating dust by sanding dry clay. Use a wet sponge instead. Immerse bisque ware in water before sanding to minimise dust. Clean up your workspace thoroughly to prevent dust accumulation. Cleaning: Always clean your workspace, tools, and equipment after use. Use water and a sponge or cloth. Avoid sweeping; use a mop and bucket. Do not wash clay down the sink. Clean hands and equipment in a bucket before rinsing. Safety: Keep your workspace tidy to prevent accidents. Be aware of spills and wet floors. Use a trolley to move heavy objects. Lift heavy objects safely by bending your knees and keeping them close to your body. Avoid lifting heavy objects above shoulder level. Keep food and drinks out of the ceramics area PPE: Wear personal protective equipment such as closed shoes, apron, dust mask, rubber gloves, and safety goggles The firing cycle Vitrification Vitrification is the last stage in firing. This is determined by the type of clay bodies Such clays as stoneware and porcelain, with a high amount of alumina vitrify slowly and at a high temperature Vitrification is the melting of clay platelets. It means the process of becoming glasslike. Earthenware is a low temperature clay. True or false? Fired clay is known as bisque fire. A clay goes through seven stages before it is mature