Clothing Principles & Care (PDF)

**THE PRINCIPLES OF CLOTHING AND IT\'S INFLUENCE IN THE FASHION WORLD** **RHYTHM** In fashion design, rhythm refers to the repetition of visual patterns. It's a continuity of organized movement and is also called recurrence **EMPHASIS** This essential element of design in fashion draws attention...

**THE PRINCIPLES OF CLOTHING AND IT\'S INFLUENCE IN THE FASHION WORLD** **RHYTHM** In fashion design, rhythm refers to the repetition of visual patterns. It's a continuity of organized movement and is also called recurrence **EMPHASIS** This essential element of design in fashion draws attention to a specific part of the body or garment. This is done in various ways, such as using different sizes, colors, textures, shapes, etc. These include embellishments, like sequins, cut-outs, peplum skirts, ruffled sleeves, and more. Emphasis is also created using:Value(light and dark of the same color). Complementary colors and atmospheric perspective. **BALANCE**In fashion, this is essentially the equal distribution of visual weight. Designers use this principle when creating necklines, hemlines, seams, and more. These relate to our physical concept of internal equilibrium. If this principle isn't utilized effectively, the viewer feels uncomfortable and the design.Symmetrical and asymmetrical are two main types of balance.**PROPORTION** The principle of proportion refers to the ratio of one element to the other in a design. It helps designers choose the size and shape of many elements concerning each other to create a pleasant overall effect. A feeling of togetherness is created when different parts (amounts, sizes, or numbers) relate to each other.**UNITY (HARMONY)** When the fashion designer weaves all the elements in such a way that they come together to create a unified design language, they're using the principle of unity. This is also known as harmony. When this is effectively executed, a garment looks good overall.Fashion has always been more than just clothing---it is a reflection of culture, identity, and the spirit of the times. From the ancient garments that symbolised status and power to today's trends shaped by technology and global influence, fashion has continually evolved. It serves as a form of self-expression, allowing individuals to communicate their personality, beliefs, and creativity through style. Over the centuries, fashion has been influenced by everything from social movements to technological advancements, creating a dynamic and ever-shifting landscape. **OTHER FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE FASHION INCLUDE: CULTURAL APPROPRIATION** The borrowing of an item, pattern, idea, or ideology from another culture. **SOCIAL AND POLITICAL MOVEMENTS**Popular figures like Princess Diana and First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy have set fashion trends. Political revolutions have also had a significant impact on fashion trends. **TRADITIONAL GARMENTS AND ATTIRE** Different cultures have their own distinct styles and clothing traditions, which are often deeply rooted in history and heritage. **MODULE 6: CLOTHING CARE AND MAINTENANCE** We all know that clothes, with use, get dirty. They have to be washed, dried and ironed regularly for their long life, neat appearance and also for personal cleanliness and cleanliness of the environment. Hence, it is important to take care of our clothes. You may also know that all fabrics are not washed and finished in the same way. For some fabrics you use hot water, while others are washed only in cold water. Some are washed with detergents while others with mild soaps. Some are hung on the clothesline, others are dried flat on the ground and so on. This means, different fabrics have to be given different care while washing. I.TAKING CARE OF CLOTHES Why do we need to take care of clothes? Well, we all know that when we wear clothes they become dirty due to the dirt, grease, perspiration, etc. Clothes look ugly if those are allowed to remain on the fabric. They also tend to loose their strength and stains can get fixed on the fabric. The dry dirt can be easily shaken off the clothes, but greasy dirt requires a special treatment. II\. MEANING OF LAUNDERING A. LAUNDERING: Washing, drying and finishing of clothes. B. DRY CLEANING : Some clothes cannot be washed. These are cleaned by using solvents and/or grease absorbents. In other words, clothes are cleaned without the use of water which may damage the fabric or color of the fabric. 1. Steps in Laundering Some preparatory steps are done to make washing more methodical. They are as follows: i. Mending: Articles to be laundered are first examined carefully for any tears, or missing or loose buttons. They need to be stitched before washing. ii. Stain removal: If there are some stains or marks of discoloration other than the dirt present on the articles, they should be removed or they might spread, get fixed or stain other fabrics in washing. iii. Sorting: Articles to be washed should be sorted out on the basis of the fiber type i.e., cotton, woolens, silks, and synthetics; whites should be washed separately from colored ones. Also, very dirty articles like dusters should be washed separately from cleaner clothes. iv. Soaking: Soaking helps to loosen the dirt from the fabrics, and this makes washing easier. All fabrics cannot/ need not be soaked. For example, Clothes which do not have fast color should not be soaked. Woolens are not soaked because soaking leads to felting. v. Washing : Clothes are now washed using appropriate detergent/soap and also the right method of washing. Process of washing helps in releasing the dirt from the fabric. vi. Rinsing: All soap/detergent and/or chemicals used must be removed from the fabric. Hence clothes are rinsed 2-3 or 4 times using fresh water every time. In fact rinsing should continue till all soap/detergent is removed. vii. Starching and/bluing: Clothes must be starched if they need to be starched and also blued to return their whiteness. viii. Drying: You probably know that clothes are dried differently. White clothes are dried in sun and colored clothes are dried in shade. Silk, white or coloured, are dried in shade. Synthetics are dried on hanger and in shade. Woolens are dried in shade and flat on the floor. ix. Ironing and Pressing: The last step of laundering is ironing. Clothes are ironed according to the nature of the fabric. Cottons are sprinkled with water and ironed using hot iron -- Silks are brought in while damp and ironed with hot iron. Synthetic sand rayon's are ironed with moderately hot iron. Woolens are pressed with hot iron but over a damp muslin. III.DETERGENTS A detergent is a product which is capable of cleaning. Detergents can be of two types: soaps and syndets. a. A SOAP is a cleanser obtained from mixing of natural oil/fat and waxes. b. b\) A SYNDET is a cleanser produced synthetically from chemicals. Both the cleansers act by helping penetration of water into the fabric by reducing the surface tension of water. But differences are the following: i. As you know that soaps wet the fabric more readily than water but syndets acts even more readily than soaps. ii. Also you must have observed that dissolving soaps in cold water is more difficult than dissolving it in hot water but syndets are soluble in both cold and hot water. iii. Syndets have a good cleansing action even with hard water while soaps foam well only in soft water. iv. Soaps do not have a distinct smell but syndets are sweet smelling. Hence clothes also smell nice when washed with syndets. \(v) Blueing has to the done after washing with soaps but syndets have blues and optical brightnes already added to them. v. You must have observed that your clothes tend to look dull after few washes with soap. It is because soap leaves soapy deposits on the fabric. This makes clothes look dull in due course of time. Syndets do not leave any deposits on the fabric. vi. Soaps are cheaper than the syndets but if clothes become dull after few washes, what is the use! Hence syndets are more economical in the long run. IV.AUXILLARIES Besides cleaners there are other things required while laundering which will give new life to your fabrics. Such substance are called auxiliaries. Products other than the cleansers, required to give good finish to the fabrics during the process of laundering are known as **Auxiliaries**. Some of the auxillaries in laundering are: \- Blues \- Optical brightening agents \- Chemical bleaches \- Stain removing agents- Stiffening agents. Have you ever noticed that after 2-3 wears and washings your white cottons andlinens lose whiteness and get a yellowish tint. You probably apply blue to counteract the yellowness of the fabric. You should know that besides blues you can alsouse bleaching agents and optical brightening agents. Therefore, yellowness of white fabrics can be removed by Blues Optical, bleaching, brightening agents. A. Blues- A blue is defined as a chemical used as a fabric whitener. It is obtained from chemical, vegetable and mineral sources and is available in the market in powder or liquid form. There are many types of blues and their colour varies from violet to blue to bluish green. Wherever blue has to be applied: \- it should be applied just before the last rinse \- the blue water should be mixed thoroughly before putting fabric into it. This will help avoid formation of blue speckles on the fabrics and helps in evenapplication of blue, eg., ultra marine blue and prussian blue. B. Opticals Brightening Agents/Flouroscent Brightening Agents (OBA's/FBA's)- Optical brightening agents are colourless dyes. They are fluorescent compounds which give very bright colours when applied to the fabrics and dried in the sun. These OBA's absorb light from the ultraviolet region and reflect back in the visible region. This reflected light has the effect of counteracting the yellowness, thus brightening the whiteness of the fabric. All clothes start looking whiter than white. There is no chemical action so it has no harmful effect on fabrics. C. Chemical Bleaches- A bleaching agent is any material or compound that whitens or brightens the fabric through chemical action. This action may be oxidizing or reducing. These bleaches help in removing colouring matter from fabrics. These are also used as stain removal agents. Bleaches are of two types, the Oxidising bleaches and Reducing bleaches. A. OXIDISING BLEACHES- are bleaches leave an almost permanent effect. These are used widely for application on vegetable fibres like cotton and linen. Examples of oxidizing bleaches are: i. Sun light -- It is the oldest and most simplest method of stain removal. Wet the stain and put on grass. Chlorophyll, moisture and oxygen from air bring about bleaching of the stain. ii. Javelle Water (Sodium hypochlorite Na2CO3)- They should always be diluted before use. The fabric should be in bleach till the stain is removed. Further, the fabric should be rinsed to remove any remaining bleach in the fabric as it may harm the fabric by weakening it. iii. Potassium permanganate (KMnO4) and Oxalic acid- Used for stains caused by dyes, mildew, perspiration and ink. The brown stains(which may be caused due to any reason like rust, or stains caused due to paan)can easily be removed by oxalic acid and by combination of KMnO4 and oxalic acid. iv. Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2)- It is a universal bleach applied on both vegetable and animal fibres. Therefore it is safe bleach for the silks, woolens and rayons as it has no harmful effect on animal fibres. Always store H2O2 in dark bottles, otherwise it does not remain effective. B. REDUCING BLEACHES- are less strong in action than oxidizing bleaches and are applied on animal fibres like wool and silk. These bleaches do not have permanent effect on the fabric. Wool and silk sometimes turn yellow when they come in contact with air after bleaching with reducing bleaches. This happens because wool and silk are animal fibre. Reducing bleaches are applied to make them pure white and when these fabrics come in contact with air slowly and gradually they turn yellow and loose their bleaching effect. Examples of reducing bleach: i. Sodium Hydrosulphite ii. Sodium Bisulphite. V. STAIN REMOVAL Stains are marks other than dirt on clothes. For example, you may get a curry or pickle mark on your shirt while eating or an ink stain while writing, or a paint stain if you accidently come in contact with a newly painted door. Such marks are called stains and if allowed to stay for long they make the clothes look ugly. A.How to identify a Stain? In order to decide which procedure to use for stain removal it is important to identify the stain first. For this, one has to see the following: -Colour: Every stain has a specific colour, for example, curry and pickle are yellow while coffee and tea stains are brown, grass stain is green. -Smell: Some stains have a peculiar smell eg. Stains of eggs or paints. These stains can be recognized by the smell. -Feel: Some stains also change the feel of the fabric and can be recognized on that basis. For example paint or sugar syrup makes the fabric stiff to touch, whereas lipstick or shoe polish make the fabric feel slippery. Stains can be put in following categories and similar methods can be adopted to remove stains from each group: 1\. Vegetable stains-like curry, tea, coffee 2\. Animal stains-like milk, blood 3\. Grease stains-like pickle, curry, shoe polish, et. 4\. Mineral stains-like rust 5\. Grass stain 6\. Miscellaneous stains-dyes B. Methods of Stain Removal 1\. Dipping 2\. Sponging 3\. Drop method 4\. Steaming C. Precautions While Removing Stains Stains should be removed very carefully. If some general precautions are not observed, there might be a damage to the fabric itself. So whenever you have to remove a stain, do the following: 1. As far as possible, remove the stain when it is fresh. 2. Find out whether the stained fabric is cotton, wool, silk, or synthetic. 3. Try to identify the stain. 4. For unknown stains, start the stain removal with a simple process and then move on to a complex one. Always wash the stain with cold water first as protein stains like blood and egg coagulate with hot water and become hard to remove. 5. Chemicals used should not damage the fabric. 6. For delicate and/or coloured fabrics try out the chemical on a small portion of the fabric first. In case the fabric is damaged do not use it. 7. Repeated use of a milder reagent is better than a one-time use of a strong reagent. 8. Wash all fabrics with soapy solution at the end to remove all traces of chemical from it. 9. Dry fabrics in the sun as sunlight acts as a natural bleach.  VI\. METHODS OF WASHING After you have mended the clothes, removed the stains, sorted and steeped the clothes, the actual washing starts. You know that some portions like cuffs and collars need extra rubbing because they become more dirty. Properties of fibres should be kept in mind while laundering them. Do you remember that cotton becomes stronger when wet while rayon loses its strength? That is why one can wash cottons by rubbing while rayons have to be treated gently. Also, wool and silk need special care as woolens lose shape in water and silk loses strength. Two main factors need to be considered while selecting the methods of washing: I\) How dirty is the fabric and while selecting the method of washing: Ii) What kind of fabric it is i.e. cotton, silk, wool, rayon, nylon and so on. Laundering is generally done by: I\) Friction washing Ii) Suction Iii) Kneading and squeezing Iv) Washing by machines Friction Washing- method is suitable for washing strong fabrics like cotton. Friction can be applied as follows: A\) By hand: This means rubbing vigorously with the hand. It is suitable for cleaning very soiled small articles like small garments, handkerchief, etc. It is economical in the use of soap. B\) With a plastic scrubbing brush: with a scrubbing brush friction is applied by placing the dirty article flat on a hard surface. It is suitable for very soiled household articles made of strong fabric, for example, dusters. C\) Beating with a stick: Large articles like bedsheets, etc., are washed by this method. Suction Washing- This method is used for articles like towels, etc. Which are heavy and have a pile weave, on which a brush can not be used. The article is placed in soap solution in a tub and the suction washer is pressed down on it and lifted repeatedly. The vacuum created by pressing loosens the dirt particles. Washing by Kneading and Squeezing- This method is used for delicate fabrics like silk, woolens, rayon, etc. This method does not damage the fabric or change its shape as only gentle rubbing with hands is applied. Washing by Machines- Washing machine is a labor saving device especially useful for large institutions. Now-a-days it is being used at home also. The washing time varies with types of fabrics and amount of soiling. Woolens take less time than cottons to get cleaned. The instructions with the machine should be read carefully before using it. VII\. STORAGE OF TEXTILES List of few precautions in order to save our expensive clothes: 1\. Empty out pockets and brush the garments thoroughly in order to free them from dust. 2\. Always sun and air the garments which have been worn before storing. 3\. Do not let garments become too dirty before laundering or dry cleaning. 4\. Do not store any damp clothes as moisture causes mildew. You must have been that clothes have changed colour when taken out from closets and this is the reason for it. 5\. All textiles should be protected from insects. This can be done by using repellents like tobacco, dried reem, camphor, moth balls, etc., as you all do at home. Woolens can be packed in newspapers as the moth dislikes printer's ink. Boxes may be lined and covered with paper. Even dried reem leaves, sandal-wood dust, dry eucalyptus leaves are good as long as the odor lasts.   VIII.DRY CLEANING This is another method of taking care of clothes. Your expensive and delicate silk and woolen garments need to be dry-cleaned. In dry-cleaning, instead of ordinary washing, the dirt is removed by a solvent action and grease absorbents. The advantage of using these solvents is that they do not penetrate the fabric as waterdogs in ordinary washing. These have no effect on the colour of the fabric, the material does not shrink, lose shape or finish as is frequently the case in wet cleaning. Woolens, as you remember, do not get dirty quickly hence do not need to be washed as frequently as other fabrics. Hence, what they really require is "spot cleaning". You can do the spot cleaning at home. Dirty spots get fixed to the fabric with grease. If you remove grease the spot is gone. Use grease absorbents or solvents. Some of these are: Absorbents: French Chalk, Fuller's earth, moong powder, besan, talcum powder, magnesium carbonate, etc. are used for removing spots from all kind of materials. Grease solvents: White petrol, benzene, carbon tetrachloride, methylated spirit. **MODULE 7: CLOTHING CONSUMERISM** **Clothing** **consumerism** refers to the excessive consumption of clothing, driven by factors like trends, marketing, and a desire for self-expression. Is a culture of over-consumption of clothing and it is extremely harmful to the environment and all living things. In order to shift the course of fast fashion, there needs to be a drastic change in the mindset of those who support fast fashion. It's characterized by: \- **Fast** **fashion**: Rapidly changing trends and frequent purchases of cheap, disposable clothing. \- **Overconsumption**: Buying more clothes than needed, often driven by impulsive purchases and a sense of inadequacy. \- **Waste** **generation**: Large amounts of clothing ending up in landfills due to short lifespans and a lack of recycling options. **Consumerism** is an economic and social theory that encourages people to buy more than what is necessary for survival or status. It's characterized by the idea that consumer spending is the primary driver of economic growth and a key indicator of a country's economic success. Consumerism is driven by a number of factors, including: - Market economy: - Advertising and mass media: - Internet: **Clothing** is any material worn on the body for covering, adornment, or protection. It can be made from a wide variety of materials, including: \- **Natural** **fibers**: Cotton, wool, silk, linen \- **Synthetic** **fibers**: Polyester, nylon, acrylic \- **Leather** **and** **fur** \- **Other** **materials**: Plastic, rubber, metal Clothing serves several purposes: \- **Protection**: From the elements (sun, rain, cold) and physical harm \- **Modesty**: To conform to social norms and cultural expectations \- **Adornment**: For expressing personal style, status, or identity \- **Comfort**: For warmth, coolness, or ease of movement Clothing can be categorized by: \- **Type**: Shirts, pants, dresses, coats, shoes, accessories \- **Function**: Workwear, sportswear, formal wear, casual wear \- **Style**: Classic, modern, trendy, vintage \- **Culture**: Traditional attire, modern fashion **Clothing** **consumerism** in the Philippines is characterized by a love for fast fashion, which is trendy and affordable, but can have negative environmental impacts. However, there is also a growing demand for sustainable, locally-made clothing. Here are some details about clothing consumerism in the Philippines: **Fast** **fashion** Filipinos are known to buy fast fashion, but many throw away their clothes after only one use. This is due to the rapid changes in fashion trends. Fast fashion can pollute the environment with toxic chemicals and consume a lot of natural resources. **Sustainability** There is a growing demand for sustainable clothing, as consumers want to support local businesses and reduce their environmental impact. However, many consumers are unaware of sustainable fashion consumption. **Textile** **waste** The Philippines dumps 267,111 tons of textile waste in landfills each year. **Household** **spending** In 2023, household spending on clothing and footwear in the Philippines was valued at nearly 232 billion Philippine pesos. **Generation** **Z** Generation Z and millennials are the most values-driven generation when it comes to sustainability. Here's a breakdown of the commonly cited advantages and their associated downsides: 1. **Affordability**: \- Advantage: Fast fashion makes trendy clothing accessible to a wider range of people, allowing them to express their style without breaking the bank. \- Disadvantage: The low prices are often achieved through unethical labor practices, environmental exploitation, and the use of low-quality materials, leading to short lifespans and increased waste. 2. **Variety** **and** **Trend** **Responsiveness**: \- Advantage: Fast fashion brands offer a wide range of styles and trends, allowing consumers to keep up with the latest fashions. \- Disadvantage: This constant influx of new trends encourages a throwaway culture, where clothes are quickly discarded as they become out of style. It also fuels a sense of dissatisfaction and the need for constant renewal, leading to overconsumption. 3. **Economic** **Growth** **and** **Job** **Creation**: \- Advantage: The fast fashion industry has contributed to economic growth in developing countries by providing jobs in manufacturing and retail. \- Disadvantage: These jobs often come with low wages, poor working conditions, and a lack of job security, perpetuating economic inequality and exploitation. 4. **Self**-**Expression** **and** **Cultural** **Exchange**: \- Advantage: The abundance of choices allows for greater self-expression through fashion. The globalization of fast fashion also facilitates cultural exchange through clothing. \- Disadvantage: This can lead to a homogenization of styles, diminishing cultural diversity and unique expressions of identity. The focus on trends can also create social pressure to conform, leading to feelings of inadequacy. 5. **Innovation**: \- Advantage: The fast fashion industry has driven innovation in clothing production and recycling technologies. \- Disadvantage: This innovation is often focused on speed and cost reduction, neglecting ethical and environmental considerations. Fast fashion brands also frequently copy designs from independent artists and designers, hindering creativity and originality. There are many ways to reduce clothing consumerism, including: **Buying** **less** **but** **better**: Buying high-quality, durable clothing that reflects your personal style can help you wear your clothes for longer and reduce the need to buy new ones. **Style** **consumption**: This sustainable alternative to fashion consumption involves choosing clothing that reflects your long-term identity instead of following trends. **Lowerism**: This critical approach to consumption involves making prudent purchases of new clothing. **Use**-**oriented** **clothing** **economy**: This approach involves shifting the focus from material consumption to usage, such as by supplementing or replacing products with services. **Buying** **second**-**hand**, **swapping**, **or** **renting**: These are ways to reduce the amount of new clothing you buy. **Being** **mindful** **of** **your** **washing**: Washing habits can impact the longevity of your clothing.