Chapter 2 Pattern Development PDF

Chapter 2: Pattern Development Muhammad Suhairi Bin Sulaiman  Pattern Development 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 Production Flat Pattern and Key Body Devel...

Chapter 2: Pattern Development Muhammad Suhairi Bin Sulaiman  Pattern Development 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 Production Flat Pattern and Key Body Developing Basic Patterns for Specification Landmarks Blocks Ready-to-Wear Drawing Mass Production What is Pattern? A pattern is a shape of garment made from a brown paper or muslin and it is used as a guide in dressmaking. Patterns are useful for obtaining the correct size, shape, and measurement of a garment. They are templates from which the part of garment are traced onto fabrics before being cut out and assembled..  Pattern Making Pattern making is the means of achieving shape of garment with the use of brown paper, muslin and accurate body measurement for a style. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of a fabric to conform to one or more cures of a human figure.  Basic Pattern Making The three basic method of obtaining pattern are ○ Drafting ○ Draping ○ Flat pattern making  Drafting This is a method of creating patterns using precise measurements of the body or a dress form. The designer drafts (draws) the pattern on paper using rulers and other drafting tools. Application: Used when creating custom-fitted clothing, drafting ensures accuracy in measurements, allowing the designer to create a base pattern (block) that can be adapted for different styles.  Drafting When accurate measurements are used, the pattern fits very well. Instructions are followed step by step to obtain the pattern. All pattern markings are put on the pattern to make the pieces meaningful. Basic Pattern  Draping Draping involves wrapping fabric around a dress form to create a design by pinning and cutting along the seam lines. The fabric used (often muslin) serves as a test fabric, and after draping, the fabric is transformed into a paper pattern using tools like tracing wheels and rulers.  Draping It allows for creativity and is ideal for figures with unique features like heavy busts or small waists. Common in haute couture, it offers flexibility in design by directly manipulating fabric on a mannequin. Flat Pattern Flat pattern making involves modifying a pre-existing basic pattern block (sloper) to create new styles. The designer alters the flat pattern pieces by adding darts, pleats, seams, and other design elements. Application: It's efficient for mass production and for making different versions of a garment based on a foundational pattern. Pattern Group  Pattern groups refer to sets of Pattern Group related pattern pieces that together make up a complete garment or various variations of a garment. Grouping allow for efficient production and easier alterations by sharing a common base or block pattern. Pattern groups help streamline the process by organizing related pieces that work together for different designs and modifications.  Basic Block These are simple, foundational patterns without design elements. Examples include bodice, skirt, and pant blocks. These blocks are part of a pattern group that can be modified for multiple styles.  Pattern Variations From the basic blocks, designers create different versions, such as varying necklines, sleeve types, or silhouettes. All the patterns within the group share the same fit but differ in style.  Garment Components Complete pattern group includes all pieces required to make a garment, such as the front, back, sleeves, cuffs, collars, and facings. These pieces together form a "group" necessary for sewing the final product.  Importance of Pattern Making It makes sewing easy and faster It is economical in terms of fabric It gives a feeling of confidence It gives accurate fit when done correctly It helps one to design garments that are unique and original. Old garments can be restyled and remodeled to bring them up to date with fashions. Importance of Pattern Making It gives better understanding to pattern alternations and fitting of patterns and garments. It helps to analyze the causes of mistakes during sewing intelligently and make proper correction before cutting out. It helps one to understand the correct use of grain lines in achieving the desired goal in clothing construction. Patterns can always be used again in future Specification Drawing  Specification Drawing A specification drawing in fashion design provides detailed information about a garment, including its construction, dimensions, and materials. It is a technical sketch used to communicate specific details to manufacturers and pattern makers. Drawings typically include front, back, and side views of the garment.  Specification Drawing Dimensions: Specific measurements for various parts of the garment (e.g., sleeve length, waist width). Details: Placement of seams, darts, pleats, zippers, buttons, or any other design elements. Annotations: Written notes regarding fabric type, stitch type, or other production instructions. Scale: Usually drawn to scale to ensure accurate production.  Developing Basic Block A foundational process of creating patterns that serve as templates for garment construction. The basic or “block” patterns are drafted to fit standard body measurements and are then modified to create different styles.  Step in Basic Pattern Making Measurements Drafting Basic Adding Ease Measurement form Blocks Extra space in the body/dress are Basic unstyle garment for comfort taken, patterns are and movement. Chess, Shoulder, develop. Allowance added to Bust, Waist and est) Bodice, Skirt, Pants, make sure garment Sleeve not to tight  Step in Basic Pattern Making Pattern Adding Seam Pattern Testing Allowance Creating. Pattern are tested Allowance are added to the using inexpensive Basic pattern are edge of pattern to allow material. trace and altered. space for sewing. Adding Dart, Allowance size range from Help to identify any fit Seam Lines and 0.5cm up tp 2cm issues and necessary ect adjustments Tools for Pattern Development Let’s Create A Basic Pattern! Key Body Landmarks  Key Body Landmarks Key body landmarks are specific points on the body that are important for accurate measurement and pattern making in fashion design. Neck base: Where the neck meets the shoulders. Shoulder point: The outermost point of the shoulder. Bust point: The fullest part of the bust. Waistline: The narrowest part of the torso. Hip line: The fullest part of the hips. Knee line: Midpoint of the knee. Ankle: Where the leg tapers near the foot.  Patterns Production for Ready-to-Wear Mass Production  Pattern for Mass Production A pattern for mass production is a technical template or blueprint used to cut fabric in the manufacturing process of garments. It consists of multiple pieces that represent the various parts of a garment, such as the front and back panels, sleeves, collars, etc. Flat patterns are essential for ensuring consistency, efficiency, and scalability in producing multiple pieces of the same design.  Key Elements in Flat Patterns for Mass Production Base Pattern Pattern Pieces Grading Mass Digitization / Maker Making Production CAD Software Considerations  Base Pattern A basic template that represents the standard body measurements. The block is usually simple, without any design details, and serves as the foundation for creating various styles of garments (e.g., dress, top, pants). Pattern Pieces Each part of the garment, such as the front bodice, back bodice, sleeves, collars, and skirts, is drawn separately. The pattern pieces must include Seam allowances: Extra space around the edges to allow for stitching. Grain lines: Directional lines to ensure the fabric is cut correctly (parallel to the fabric's threads). Notches: Small marks to help match up pattern pieces during assembly. Darts and pleats: Indicate where fabric should be shaped for fit. Grading for Different Sizes Grading involves adjusting the base pattern to create multiple sizes. This is done by increasing or decreasing the dimensions while maintaining the garment’s proportions. For example, a small, medium, large, and extra-large size would be derived from the same base pattern by applying specific size increments at critical points (bust, waist, hip, etc.). Marker Making A "marker" is the layout of all the pattern pieces placed on fabric for cutting. The goal is to minimize fabric waste while aligning grain lines correctly. The marker is used by cutting machines or workers to cut out the fabric in bulk.  Digitization and CAD Software In modern mass production, pattern design is often digitized using CAD (Computer-Aided Design) software, which ensures precision and allows for faster alterations, grading, and marker making.  Mass Production Considerations Fabric Utilization: Efficient fabric usage is critical to reduce waste and cost. Cutting Techniques: Automated cutting machines or laser cutting are used to ensure speed and precision in cutting large volumes of fabric. Batch Production: Once patterns are set, the same pattern is used to produce hundreds or thousands of pieces, ensuring every garment is identical.