Chapter 1 The Science of Clothing and RTW Manufacturing PDF

The Science of Clothing and Ready to Wear (RTW) Manufacturing. Muhammad Suhairi Bin Sulaiman  Topics 01 02 Basic Antropometric Studies Clothing and Fit 03 04 Comfort Issues in...

The Science of Clothing and Ready to Wear (RTW) Manufacturing. Muhammad Suhairi Bin Sulaiman  Topics 01 02 Basic Antropometric Studies Clothing and Fit 03 04 Comfort Issues in Clothing RTW Manufacturing  01 Basic Anthropometrics Studies Antropometry The term ‘Anthropometry’ is derived from a combination of Greek words Anthrop (meaning human) Metricos (meaning measurement).  Basic Anthropometrics Studies Anthropometry focuses on measuring and analyzing various physical characteristics of the human body. Anthropometrics studies refer to scientific measurement and data collection about human physical characteristic. Size, Shape, and Working Capacity. Basic Anthropometrics Studies Size Shape Working Capacity  Basic Anthropometrics Studies Size Physical dimensions of the human body. Essential for designing clothing, workspaces, equipment, and tools that are ergonomic and safe. Size dimensions vary greatly among individuals and the goal is often to match work environments with the physical capabilities of the users.  Size Shoulder Length Height Torso Length Leg and Arm Circumference Hand Size Chest & Waist Limb Length Circumference Hip Width Weight  Basic Anthropometrics Studies Shape Overall form or contour of the human body and its parts. Significant in determining how individuals interact with their environment, particularly in work settings. Shape plays a crucial role in ergonomic design, impacting comfort, performance, and safety.  Shape Body Fat Distribution Gender Proportions Muscle Mass & Body Segment Posture and Contour Shape Body Curvature  Important of Anthropometric Studies Anthropometric studies are highly valuable to fashion designers as: 1. They provide critical insights into the diverse body shapes and sizes of human. 2. This enable designers to create clothing that: 1. Fits well. 2. Comfortable 3. Meets the aesthetic and functional needs of a wide range of consumers. Basic anthropometric in clothing Landmarks  Basic anthropometric in clothing Landmarks Specific, identifiable points on the human body that are used to take precise measurements. These landmarks are critical for consistency and accuracy in measuring different dimensions of the body, such as length, breadth, and circumference. Specifically located on a bony prominence or other physically definable point on the human body (detected by feeling the bones beneath the skin) Marked on the body to identify anchor points for the measuring tools and to ensure that measurements are taken consistently and accurately. Fashion designers and researchers rely on these landmarks to Head Landmarks Torso & Shoulder Landmarks Upper Body Landmarks 1.Bust - circumference at the fullest part of the chest/bust across the apex (do not contour) 2.Waist - circumference at the smallest point of the torso 3.Abdomen (High Hip) - circumference at the fullest part of the stomach at the top of the hips, about 3” down from the waist point 4.Hip (Low Hip) - circumference at the fullest part of the hips and bum 5.Center Length - from clavicle to CF waist 6.Full Length - from HPS to waist level 7.Bust Depth - from HPS to bust apex 8.Bust Point to Point - from bust apex to bust apex, straight (do not contour) 9.Side Length - from underarm to waist level at side 10.Back Neck - from side neck to side neck at mid neck level 11.Across Shoulder - from LPS to LPS at back 12.Across Chest - from bust break point (mid armhole) across chest to bust break point 13.Across Back - from back break point (mid armhole) across back-to- Lower Body Landmarks 1.Abdomen Arc - from CF/CB to side at high hip level 2.Hip Arc - from CF/CB to side at low hip level 3.Crotch Depth - from CF waist to crotch level 4.Hip Depth - from CF waist to low hip level 5.Waist to Floor - from CF waist to floor, straight 6.Crotch Length - from CF waist to CB waist between legs with model sitting 7.Crotch Girth (Vertical Trunk) - from HPS down through the crotch and over the bust apex to the starting point 8.Thigh - circumference at the largest part of the upper thigh, about 1” below crotch point 9.Knee - circumference at center of knee 10.Calf - circumference at largest part of calf, about halfway from knee to ankle bone 11.Ankle - circumference around ankle over inside and outside ankle  Arm - Sleeves 1.Overarm Length - from LPS to wrist with arm slightly bent 2.Bicep - circumference at largest part of upper arm, about 1” below underarm 3.Elbow - circumference at center elbow 4.Wrist - circumference at wrist over the wrist bone Foot Landmarks  Basic anthropometric in clothing Tools & Methods for collecting: Linear Measures Multiprobe Body Form Methods Linear Measures  Linear Measures Collecting data in the form of distance between two points on the body. Measurements are typically straight-line distances, such as the distance between the shoulder and the wrist (arm length) or the hip circumference. Typical linear measurements might include height, chest circumference, or waist circumference, which are often collected for designing clothing. Multiprobe  Multiprobe Combines linear methods with other tools to capture more detailed information about the body, especially its contours. Instead of just measuring straight-line distances, these methods map out the curves and shapes of the body, giving a more complete and nuanced understanding of body dimensions. Example: Tools like 3D body scanners may be used to capture both the linear distances and the body's shape in detail, which is useful in creating well-fitted clothing. Body Form  Body Form Focus on gathering information about the surface, shape, and volume of the body. This involves looking beyond basic measurements to understand how the body's curves, form, and overall volume affect the fit of clothing. Example: Techniques such as 3D body scanning, body molds, or draping fabric on a body form help in understanding the full three-dimensional shape of the body, which is crucial for designing garments that fit properly.  Advancement of Anthropometric Measurement 3D Body Scanner  3D Body Scanner 3D Body Scanner: A device that captures detailed 3D images of the human body. How it Works: Uses lasers or infrared to scan and create a digital body model. Fashion Use: Provides accurate measurements for custom fitting and virtual try-ons. Advantages: High accuracy and speed, Reduces physical prototyping Examples: Fit3D ProScanner, Artec 3D 0 Clothing & Fits 2  Clothing & Fit Clothing fit is defined as garments that have the proper size and shape. The perfect fit embraces your curves, flatters your silhouette, and enhances your overall appearance. Good fit is commonly understood as garments the right size of individual's body or one size bigger. On the other hand, bad fit is seen as garments too small or too big on certain parts of their body Aim for a normal range of motion in your clothes, including being able to lift your arms up or sit down without fabric straining against your thighs. Additionally, individuals consider a garment well fitted when the clothing both looks good and feels comfortable on their bodies.  Clothing & Fit Loose Fitting This is when all you see are a pile of clothes walking on their own and you need to send out a search party to find the person within. A lot of unnecessary room in your clothes, like a billowy shirt and oversized pants  Clothing & Fit Tight Fitting You can envision being able to see every rise and fall of a person’s breath because he is literally trying to get himself a second skin. May have trouble bending over or is one flex away from ripping his shirt.  Clothing & Fit Great Fit This is where the clothes conform to your shape with just the right amount of room to let you breathe, while glossing over the unshapely parts if required without adding bulk to your frame. Your preference? Clothing & Fit Clothing & Fit  Clothing & Fit Tight fit A tight-fitting top that sits closely against your skin. This fit can help to reduce chafing and discomfort, as well as being appropriate for layering. A tight-fitting top can come with or without compression. Slim fit A slim-fitted top that skims the body for an aerodynamic performance. Regular Fit A top with a traditional fit that’s comfortable without being baggy, that helps you to move freely. Relaxed Fit A relaxed-fit top is loose around the body. It’s appropriate for layering over other tighter-fitting tops. Choose your type & discuss with your friends whether they agree or not Clothing & Fit  Clothing & Fit Low support A low-support bra top with moderate compression gives you complete freedom of movement. Sports: yoga and pilates Medium support A medium-support bra top offers a compressed and comfortable fit, which gives you a dynamic range of motion. Sports: boxing, cross-fit and spinning High support A high-support bra top gives you excellent support for that locked-in feel. Sports: running, tennis and dancing  03 Comfort Issues in Clothing  Comfort issues in clothing Definition of clothing comfort Clothing comfort is a state of mind when it is at its lowest stress level. Comfort is defined as the absence of perceived pain- and discomfort. Clothing comfort is a state of satisfaction indicating physiological, psychological and physical balance among the person. Balanced process of heat exchange between the human body, the clothing system and the environment. Thermal comfort as an expression of mind that expresses satisfaction with the environment- ASHRAE.  Comfort issues in clothing History of clothing comfort As old as human being People adjusted their clothing according to need Turban in tropical area is an example for protection from ultra violet rays (10 -400 nm) Heavy clothing for North Pole people Dress variation is based on need of comfort Climatic variation pushed people to have different clothing  Comfort issues in clothing Types of clothing comfort Thermal - heat and mass transfer Sensorial - tactile, touching, hand-feel Movement - movement of body parts Social - status, forces dress Psychological - aesthetic sense Design is different for kids and old people, colourful dress of ladies Functional - helpful for any function, firefighter dress Faith, Culture, Religion - Syariah compliance  Comfort issues in clothing Factors determining clothing comfort EXTERNAL INTERNAL Ambient Metabolic rate temperature Level of Wind speed activities Moisture in Health position environment Economic Globe position temperature Social Cultural experiences Overall Psychological environment situation  Comfort issues in clothing What cause discomfort? Accumulation of heat in micro climate(between the skin and clothing) Change in skin temperature more than 35°C and less than 30°C Accumulation of sweat on the skin Injuries /wounds Sizing https://textiledetails.com/ what-is-clothing-comfort/ #wicking https://www.ishn.com/articles/101473-thermal-comfort-is-critical-choose-fr- fabrics-with-high-total-heat-loss  04 RTW Manufacturing  What is RTW? Ready-to-wear (RTW) – also called prêt-à-porter, or off-the-rack or off-the-peg in casual use. Is the term for garments sold in finished condition in standardized sizes. Unlike couture clothing which is customized and made for a specific client, ready-to-wear are clothes you can buy straight off the rack. There is no need for fittings or measurements, as these clothes are produced in small runs and come in standard sizes to fit most people. Designs that are made to fit most body types without having to perform major alterations and adjustments Standard Sizing For RTW Question?