The Drill Press.pdf

The Drill Press       Come in all different sizes o Floor models should be bolted down  Top-heavy, can tip over o Bench models are a little more stable o Some have multiple heads for several operations The bit references off the table o As long as the table is square to the bit the result wil...

The Drill Press       Come in all different sizes o Floor models should be bolted down  Top-heavy, can tip over o Bench models are a little more stable o Some have multiple heads for several operations The bit references off the table o As long as the table is square to the bit the result will be straight holes with no deviation  Assuming the bit does not travel in the grain  This is more of an issue in end grain o The table is adjustable in height  Better models have a crank that helps move it up and down o Most presses will also have a tilting table  Helps with angled holes  With blocking you can drill compound angles  Can also tilt the table 90°  Allows for different operations o Table has a hole in the centre  Allows for bits to pass through  Make sure it is aligned fro through cuts or use a backer board  Having an auxiliary table is a safer bet  Nothing slippery  Can be a scrap, just make sure the faces are parallel o Table can also be swung out of the way for taller work  The base of the press can also be used as a table Spindle travel refers to how deep a hole can be drilled o There are ways to get more drilling depth  Longer bits started in the already maxed out hole  Part should be clamped down Swing refers to the distance between the centre of the chuck and the column x2 Most machines are belt driven o Stepped pulleys allow to change the speed  400-3000 RPM (somewhere in there)  Higher RPM for smaller bits and lower RPM for larger bits  Material density/type can also determine bit speed o Some machines (like ours) have gear boxes Depth stops are a great asset o Different types  Some are better than other  Double locking nut is the most tedious and often does not stay put  Barrel type is better, can be locked both ways  Bar type is easiest to set      Use a Jacob’s Chuck o Modern chuck style o Often called a 3 jawed chuck o Is self-centering o Can be keyed or keyless  Keyed allows tighter grip on the bit, but  Keys can be misplaced – usually you but blame someone else  A chuck key left in the chuck will go sailing when the machine is switched on o Chuck is held in the quill with a Morse taper  Slightly angled shaft fits into a mating socket  Mainly ranges from #1-#4, #1 being a smallest  Held with pressure and friction only  Mating parts must be clean and free of dust but not lubricated  Easy to change using a drift key One of the dangers with a drill press is cutting into small parts o Parts must be held securely o Should be clamper down, may have to make custom jig Longer parts should be held so that the longer end is off to the left o If control is lost, the long end will impact the column and stop there The larger the hole diameter is the more the likelihood that the bit will grab and spin the part Aftermarket fences and stops are available to make drilling more precise o Most of these can be fabricated in house for a fraction of the cost Drill Press attachments     Mortising attachment o Creates square holes o Usually no larger than ½” hollow chisel o Works well, but not great with denser woods as the handles are short and do not provide adequate leverage  Handle breakage is a real possibility Sanding drums o Used for inside curves o Better to get with bottom bearing attachment as well to mitigate sideways pressure  Drill press not designed to take much sideways pressure o Choose largest diameter drum for the job Circular cutters o Single cutter o Use low RPM o Not great, but work ok Safe-T-Planer o o o o NOT SAFE Needs high RPM Many light passes On small surfaces Drill Bits         Do not use bits with lead screw on drill presses o Will pull itself through the work o Hard to control Standard Twist Bit o Everyday use, workhorse o Smooth shank o Tips are sharpened at an angle  60-82° best for wood Bullet Bits o Extended web  Helps with wandering, especially in end grain o Not common Brad-Point Bits o Has both outside spurs and centre spur  Makes a very clean hole, very little tear-out Forstner Bits o Large diameter holes o Smooth side profile o Makes a flat bottomed hole Hole Saws o Like a saw tooth mixed with a fly cutter o Needs the lead twist bit to work properly o Create a relatively rough hole  Good for door handles and plumbing work Spade Bits o Not great  Rough holes  Long centre spur  Good for angles  Easy to hand sharpen Screw Drills o Pilot, clearance and countersink all at once o Different styles available      Vix Bit o Self-centering o Retractable sleeve o Good for hardware installation Fly-Cutter o Only ever use on a drill press o Used to create specific sized holes o Very slow feed rate o Work must be clamped down o Watch you knuckles Plug Cutter o Drill press only o Creates plugs to cover screw heads Saw-Tooth Bit (aka Multi-Spur) o Similar to Forstner Bit but with teeth along edge o Centre spur must be in material Rosette Cutter o Different standard profiles o Slow feed rate o Scratchy finish