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University of Santo Tomas

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Ilocano Cuisine Filipino Food Regional Cuisine Culinary Traditions

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This document provides an overview of Ilocano cuisine from the Philippines. It details various dishes, their ingredients, and preparation methods.

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Ilocano Cuisine Ilocos Sur, Ilocos Norte, La Union, Pangasinan, including Cagayan, Isabela, Cordilleras, Abra and northern part of Central Luzon • Ilocos, located at the northern tip of the Philippines is bordered by the China Sea. It is home to many World Heritage Unesco sites as well as several...

Ilocano Cuisine Ilocos Sur, Ilocos Norte, La Union, Pangasinan, including Cagayan, Isabela, Cordilleras, Abra and northern part of Central Luzon • Ilocos, located at the northern tip of the Philippines is bordered by the China Sea. It is home to many World Heritage Unesco sites as well as several National Historic Landmarks. • On June 13, 1572, Juan de Salcedo, Legaspi's grandson, volunteered to explore parts of the Philippines. With eight armed boats and only 45 determined men with him, Salcedo who was then 22 years old, headed to the north. Salcedo landed in Vigan (previously Bigan) and proceeded toward the towns of Laoag, Currimao and Badoc. The crew saw numerous sheltered coves ("looc") where the locals made their homes and called the region Ylocos and its people Ylocanos. • Salcedo made Vigan the capital of his "encomienda" (fiefdom) covering northwestern Luzon. Later, Vigan by virtue of a Royal Decree issued by King Ferdinand VI, was elevated to a city named Ciudad Fernandina de Vigan. For three centuries Vigan was the center of political, social and cultural activities. Today, the city is one of the five Unesco World Heritage Sites in the country. Vigan is the best-preserved example of a planned Spanish town in Asia. Its architecture is a mixture of Philippine, Chinese and European cultural elements. • The cuisine of Northern Luzon is best described as simple, healthy and nourishing. Traditional daily fare consist of vegetables in season, fish and the occasional meat or game. Cooking is similarly fuss-free, with most food simply boiled, steamed or grilled • Ilocano cuisine has a very regional taste distinguished by its bitter flavors. Ingredients such as bitter melon, winter melon, horseradish, papaya, Perris lemon, gourd and chili peppers contribute to its reputation. Pinakbet/Pakbet • The preparation of this dish varies by region and the authentic Ilocano version uses small round eggplants and baby bitter gourd (ampalaya). Ilocano pinakbet uses a much loved fermented fish sauce called bagoong isda to season the dish. Poqui-Poqui • Poqui-poqui is made of grilled eggplants sauteed with onions, garlic and tomatoes. Eggs are added and stirred with the other ingredients. All the ingredients are cooked together making this Ilocos delicacy slightly soupy. Dinengdeng/Inabraw • Unlike pinakbet, dine ngdeng contains fewer vegetables and contains squash and more bagoong mona mon (isda) soup base. Bagnet • Bagnet is a Filipino dish made out of pork belly deep fried till its really crispy served with a bagoong monamon / fermented anchovy dip Pipian • The pipian is, in essence, a chicken version of the Filipino kare kare. In Mexico, pipian is a sauce thickened with ground toasted pepitas [pumpkin seeds]; in the Philippines, ground toasted rice is used instead. We adapted this dish from the pipian cooked by Rusty Ponce, the resident cook at the Syquia Mansion in Vigan. The main flavoring agent is the epazote, called pasotes in Ilocos. here is an undertone of tartness to this dish, which comes from the kamias Etag • Sagada ETAG Delicacy Sagada Town. Etag is sliced pork, salted and then cured by smoking or dried under the sun for weeks, giving it a dark, brownish color. Almost every household in Sagada makes etag, which would explain why you will see piggeries in most backyards. Etag is usually added as garnish to pinikpikan, a traditional chicken soup dish that resembles tinola but with a smoky flavor. Pinikpikan is served in highland provinces but adding etag gives it a distinct Sagada flavor. Pancit Musiko/Miki • This comforting noodle soup was served to marching bands during fiestas; thus the name. Using Ilocano miki noodles makes a big difference in the dish simmered with pork and sometimes with chicken and topped with kuchay (garlic chives) • Pancit Cabagan • Pancit Cabagan uses miki noodles, made with wheat flour, lihiya, and eggs. It may either be saucy or guisadostyle and some versions are topped with lechon carajay (crispy pork belly) and stewed pork liver. Like all kinds of pancit, Pancit Cabagan has Chinese origins. It is said that a Chinese merchant settled in Cabagan, Isabela, married a Filipina and put up a panciteria. He made his own miki noodles made with wheat flour and the rest is history. Pancit Batil Patong • Usually, it’s loaded with karne ng nuwang (carabao’s beef), sprouted monggo, shredded chicharon (or sometimes chopped lechon carajay), and sliced green onions. Of course, who could forget the egg that tops it all? Not to mention the accompanying onion-soy sauce-chili vinegar combo for a better treat. Empanada • Typically made up of eggs, shredded papaya, and your choice of meat, such as pork longganisa or b agnet. But each cook tweaks the recipe a little bit, so you'll probably find slightly different versions of the empanada in town. Colored with anatto or orange food coloring. Okoy • Crispy shrimp fritter made up of small shrimps and glutinous rice batter and served with sukang Iloko with garlic, shallot and hot chili. Kilawin • Kilawen is an Ilocano favourite recipe served from a raw/half cooked meat of goat, cow, pork and fish. Usually it has lots of onions, onion leaves, pepper, ginger and other spices. The meat is cooked not by fire but through the acidity of organic vinegar or juice extract of citrus fruits like calamansi Vigan /Ilocos longanissa • A small and plump native pork sausage flavored with native garlic and sukang iloko. It is traditional favored as breakfast fare together with fried eggs and steamed or fried rice Dinakdakan/Warek-warek • Dinakdakan is an Ilocano delicacy made with grilled pork parts such as the face, ears, liver and tongue. The charred meats are chopped into small pieces and tossed in a tangy calamansi or vinegar dressing with minced ginger, red onions and chili peppers. Mashed pig brain is then stirred in to add creaminess. Insarabasab • An Ilocano dish made out of chopped flame grilled pork mixed with chillies, onions, vinegar, ginger, and other spices. The name of this dish came from the word Insarabasab whic h means “something burned in fire” which exactly describes its cooking process Dinardaraan • Dinardaraan is the Ilocano term for dinuguan or blood stew. Dinardaraan whic h refers to the blood stew of the Ilocanos is very much different from the blood stew, dinuguan, of the Tagalogs. Dinardaraan is dry and sometimes oily as compared to the soupy dinuguan. Both however use the meat and / or innards of the pig. Sinanglao • Sinanglao or Sinanglaw is a beef innards and skin soup, flavored with bile and kamias specialty of Vigan. When you’re at Vigan sinanglao are served at street side eateries in the morning. Pinapaitan • Pinapaitan is a “bitter” soup dish popular not only among the Ilocanos but also among Filipinos specially those from the Luzon areas. Pinapaitan contain s innards like tripe, liver, kidney, heart, pancreas, intestines of cows or goats. The bitter taste of the soup comes from the juice called pait extracted from the small intestines or the pinespes which comes from the large intestines Igado • Igado is a popular dish from the Ilocos region made from pork tenderloin and pig innards. It is cooked in a vinegarsoy sauce mixture that is sure to bring out unique and oneof-a-kind flavors. Vegetables such as green peas and red bell peppers, add a beautiful and vibrant color to the dish. Sukang Iloko • Sukang Iloco is a sugarcane vinegar made from an Ilocano wine called basi. The sugarcane is cooked into a molasses-like syrup, where it is further left to ferment into a light, sweet sugarcane vinegar. The best ways to enjoy sukang Iloko? With spiced garlic sausages, longganis a, or with empanada! Basi • Basi is the local beverage of Ilocos in northern Luzon in San Ildefonso where it has been consumed since before the Spanish conquest. In the Philippines, commercial basi is produced by first crushing sugarcane and extracting the juice. The juice is boiled in vats and then stored in earthen jars (tapayan). Inartem • Inartem means pickled. It is pickled seasonal fruits like green mangoes, turnips,"balayang", papaya, carmay, tamarind, santol, sarguelas, etc. are being sliced and drenched in sukang Iloco. The longer the fruits are aged in suka (Ilocano vinegar) with some salt, the better. Tinupig/Tupig • “Tinupig” or “Tupig” is a delicacy made of ground rice, sugar, and “buko” or coconut strips rolled together, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled Bolero • Bolero is a two-piece sponge cake with thick, custard-y white calamay filling. Comparable to the inipit of Bulacan but not sprinkled with sugar Patupat • Ilocano Glutinous Rice Dessert. Patupat is a specialty of the Ilocanos. It is a sweet glutinous rice cake. Depending on which part of the Ilocos region, patupat can be wrapped in banana leaves or with intricately woven palm or banana leaves using the steaming method. Dudol • Dudol is a traditional dessert you will find in Ilocos, although it is also popular in Malaysia, Indonesia and Southern India. It is said to have come through the Malay and Indian settlements on the coastal towns of the Ilocos region before the arrival of the Spaniards. • Dudol is made of rice flour, coconut milk, sugarcane juice and anise. The secret to making a good dudol is to patiently and continuously stir the ingredients under a slow fire. Tinubong • Tinubong is a delicacy found all throughout the Ilocos Region. The name is derived from the container “tubong,” which the inter-node of a bamboo. This sweetie is generally made of grounded glutinous rice, sugar, coconut milk, coconut strips and other ingredients that are inserted in the tubong. Royal Bibingka • is a sticky rice cake which is thick, dense and is mildly sweet with a melted cheese topping. It is famous in the city of Vigan, Ilocos Sur, the northern part of the Philippines. Each town in Ilocos has bragging rights to their own versions. Inatata • Whole glutinous rice that’s a bit sweet and wrapped in small cylinders made of banana leaves are cooked by steaming. They’re tied in batches; ten per batch, and it resembles a magazine of bullets when tied. Binallay • a native suman delicacy of the province made of sticky rice flour and wrapped in banana leaves. Binallay is cooked in boiling water until done then serve with latik sauce. Candon Calamay • Calamay is a popular delicacy in many regions of the Philippines. It comes in many variations and types but basically this is a sweet sticky delicacy made of glutinous rice, grated coconut and brown sugar. This is what the calamay of Candon City in Ilocos Sur is made up of. REFERENCES • https://www.authenticfoodquest.com/ilocos-foodphilippines/#:~:text=Ilocano%20pinakbet%20uses%20a%20much,isda%20to%20season%20the%20dish.&text=For%20a %20vegetable%20dish%2C%20one,versions%20of%20Pinakbet%20include%20pork. • http://www.seasite.niu.edu/tagalog/modules/modules/InterestingPlaces/ILOKOs/a_bit_of_ilocos_history.htm • http://lapreciosa-ilocos.com/ilocanocuisine/#:~:text=Ilocano%20cuisine%20has%20a%20very%20regional%20taste%20distinguished,gourd%20and%20chili%20peppers%20contribute%20to%20its%20reputation. • https://outoftownblog.com/native-delicacies-you-should-taste-when-in-isabela-province/ • http://ylocos.blogspot.com/2017/03/how-to-make-best-kilawen.html • https://www.yummy.ph/recipe/pancit-musiko-recipe • https://www.yummy.ph/lessons/cooking/pancit-cabagan-isabela-a00057-20190602 • http://northernforum.net/batil-patung-the-evolution-of-tuguegaraos-favorite-pancit/ • https://www.yummy.ph/news-trends/empanada-irenes-vigan-empanada-a1771-20181017-lfrm • https://www.kawalingpinoy.com/dinakdakan/ • https://foodipino.com/2013/02/11/ilocano-pork-dinardaraan/ • https://www.yummy.ph/lessons/cooking/a-guide-to-filipino-vinegars • https://j113interlinkmedia.wordpress.com/2018/03/28/5-underrated-ilocano-food-to-try-on-your-holy-week-break/ • https://outoftownblog.com/native-delicacies-you-should-taste-when-in-isabela-province/

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