Esmod_Colour_1ère Année_EN_2023_3.pdf

/3 Symbolism, Making & Colour Creation Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 Colour symbolisms Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 “It is probable that, from time immemorial, groups of people have dyed their everyday clothes, as well as their festive ones, and that these colours carried a strong symbolic val...

/3 Symbolism, Making & Colour Creation Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 Colour symbolisms Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 “It is probable that, from time immemorial, groups of people have dyed their everyday clothes, as well as their festive ones, and that these colours carried a strong symbolic value (power of belonging, protection and magic...). The clothes and fabrics that surround us carry meanings that have evolved over time. For example, white, red, purple and green no longer have the meanings they had in the Middle Ages.” A.Varichon, “Colours, pigments and dyes in people's hands” Le Seuil 2005 Colour, Bachelor | 2023 BLUE "The colour that doesn't make waves" Michel Pastoureau The favourite colour The colour of sympathy, harmony and loyalty A cold, distant colour The colour of femininity and moral virtues From Prussian blue to blue jeans Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 THE KLEIN BLUE Colour, Bachelor | 2023 Yves Klein's name is inextricably linked with his famous blue, which invaded his work from 1957 onwards. Blue monochromes painted with a roller, blue balloons released, natural sponges impregnated with blue, reproductions of ancient statues dyed blue... The artist had found his fetish colour, which he used endlessly and obsessively. From 1960 onwards, he even went so far as to ask naked women to smear themselves with blue and make imprints of their bodies on large white canvases - his famous Anthropometries - under the eye of a camera, thus establishing himself as a pioneer of performance art ! /3.1 Saturated, brilliant and warm, with an unreal depth and vivacity... Klein didn't invent this incomparable blue. It's actually a well-known colour that has always fascinated artists: ultramarine blue. Used in Europe as early as the 12th century by illuminators, it was originally obtained by grinding lapis lazuli, a precious fine stone produced by volcanic fusion. Hence its name, derived from the Latin "ultramarinus" meaning "beyond the seas". RED How many shades of red do you know ? Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 /3.1 RED How many shades of red do you know ? brick brown cherry coral scarlet Ferrari fire grenadine magenta primary Colour, Bachelor | 2023 blood tomato orange pale pink rose ruby vermilion ... .... RED ""It's fire and blood, love and hell". Michel Pastoureau The colour of all passions, from love to hate The colour of kings and communism The colour of joy and danger Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 Red Theatre Since ancient times, the colour red has been associated in the West with power and the sacred. Probably because it was in the range of reds that European man was the first to perform, long before all the other colours, both in dyeing and in painting. As a result, red has long been considered the colour par excellence, the colour of blood and fire, the colour of life and vigour, the colour of authority and beauty. Even though, in the 18th century, blue competed with it in this role for a time, red remained the colour of theatricality until very recently. Everywhere, rooms were dressed entirely in red, from floor to ceiling, from armchairs to curtains, to express both the exceptional nature of the place and the pleasure of being there. Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 Today, the theatricality of red tends to be more discreet or overused. In churches and palaces, the colours have often been withdrawn; in theatres and on sports fields, other colours have made their appearance; the party is no longer just red but also blue, black, white and green. GREEN "The one who hides his game well" Michel Pastoureau The colour of fertility, hope and the bourgeoisie Healthy green and toxic green The colour of the environment Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 YELLOW "All the attributes of infamy" Michel Pastoureau The colour of contradiction Optimism and jealousy The colour of pleasure, reason and betrayal Yellow as gold and sulphur Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 PURPLE The purple of power The colour of theology The colour of magic and feminism Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 WHITE How many shades of white do you know ? Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 /3.1 WHITE How many shades of white do you know ? antique clay limestone broken cream egg enamel ivory milky lunar Colour, Bachelor | 2023 marble mother-of-pearl natural snow pearl porcelain pure satin ultrawhite .... WHITE "Everywhere it speaks of purity and innocence" Michel Pastoureau The colour of feminism and innocence The colour of goodness and spirits The most important colour in painting Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 BLACK "From mourning to elegance" Michel Pastoureau The colour of power, violence and death The favourite colour of fashion designers The colour of negation and elegance Is black really a colour ? Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.1 /3.1 “LA PETITE ROBE NOIRE” THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS We tend to attribute the creation of the little black dress to Gabrielle Chanel, but it was in the streets that this emblematic piece of women's wardrobe was born. And with good reason: in the 1920s, black was in fashion. The tragedies of the Great War and Spanish flu meant that many women were in mourning at the start of the 20th century, which was austere and gloomy. Fashion designers adapted, offering little black dresses with sober, old-fashioned cut-outs. The little black dress was born. Colour, Bachelor | 2023 GABRIELLE CHANEL Gabrielle Chanel launched her little black dress in 1926. The Parisian designer didn't invent it, but she did make it into the elegant, timeless piece we know today. Cut from a crepe sheath, with a crew neck and knee-length, her creation stood out in a couture world dominated by corseted cuts, overloaded draping and ultra-refined materials. /3.1 To continue learning about colours : “Des goûts et des couleurs avec Michel Pastoureau” Colours are never there by chance; they carry hidden meanings, codes, taboos and prejudices. They influence our daily lives, our language and our imagination. They are neither immutable nor universal, and they have a history... https://www.radiofrance.fr/franceculture/podcasts/serie-des-goutset-des-couleurs-avec-michel-pastoureau Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.2 Making & Colour Creation Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.2 Vegetable dyeing uses plants as dye resources, making them interact with textiles to transfer colour. There are many dye plants, but also dye animals (insects, molluscs) from which the colour is extracted - the cochineal, for example. Natural dyeing is the opposite of modern dyeing, which is based on the synthesis of dye molecules using petrochemical hydrocarbons. What is natural dyeing ? Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.2 Ancestral methods Before the advent of modern chemistry (the first dye molecule was synthesised in the 1850s), dyeing methods were necessarily natural (i.e. vegetable, mineral or animal), as synthetic processes did not exist. Since prehistoric times, people have observed their environment and deduced principles empirically. Humans have come into contact with colours through their daily lives, by staining their hands when picking berries or nuts, by pulling up roots, by observing the action produced by certain types of mud (loaded with iron) on a fabric... What is natural dyeing ? Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.2 Dyeing naturally, a militant gesture Dyeing with plants is a way of taking an interest in biodiversity, but it's also a more ecological alternative when it comes to dyes. Today, the textile industry is the world's second biggest polluter. The sector makes massive use of synthetic dyes loaded with additives that are often toxic. What is natural dyeing ? Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.2 Acid yellow : artichoke Primary yellow: weld Purplish : madder/indigo Brown : cachu plant Golden yellow Purple : logwood Brown : madder + indigo ou logwood + chestnut Orange: cosmos Blue : indigo Grey : mordant dye + tannin + iron Pink: madder or avocato Pink: madder Gree : weld + indigo Acid green: St. John's wort plant Blackened grey : strawberry lacquer Black : madder + indigo What is natural dyeing ? Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.2 Dyeing process What is natural dyeing ? Colour, Bachelor | 2023 Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.2 MADDER TURMERIC CHESTNUT WELD DYER’S MIGNONETTE Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.2 RHUBARB PASTEL Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.2 INDIGO WHAT IS INDIGO ? Indigo is one of the oldest textile dyes. It has been used in many civilisations. It comes from the indigo tree, a plant native to India. The leaves of the indigo plant - which turn blue when ripe - and its bark contain indican, a principle which, when the plant is fermented, gives indigo. The plant is harvested in summer when it flowers. The leaves are macerated to extract the pigments. They are piled into vats containing water and then pressed. After a few hours, they ferment and a yellow liquid flows out, which turns indigo blue on contact with oxygen. INDIGO Colour, Bachelor | 2023 /3.2 Colour, Bachelor | 2023 Now it’s your turn : Color Impact ! /3.3 As part of the brand’s Creative Office________________ , your mission is to propose a color range for the next PE24 ready-to-wear collection. This range will be made up of 6 colors, and should reflect both the seasonal trends observed in recent fashion shows, and the brand’s DNA. To help you, ask yourself the following questions: what visual impact do you want to create? what colorful atmosphere will your range plunge us into? is it faithful to the brand’s identity? This color range is part of the season’s storytelling: what story will you tell us? Colour, Bachelor | 2023 Color Impact To go with your color range, present 3 inspiring visuals that illustrate and support your range (a fashion visual, an architectural visual, a lifestyle, a material detail, a graphic focus, etc). YOU WILL PROPOSE ON THE SAME PAGE : Title: Name of the brand worked on + SS 24 A general range of 6 colors that you will name (e.g. acid yellow, burgundy, grayish green, petroleum blue, old pink, etc.). Be careful how you present your range: in what order? What format for each color? Two harmonies from your general range: these will be composed of 3 to 5 colors, which you will present in such a way as to show the proportions in which the colors will be used. Write a short description of the season’s new color choices (4/5 lines). Don’t forget to draw on the technical vocabulary you’ve learned in the last few sessions, which will help you qualify and describe your proposal. Three inspiring visuals that illustrate the creative atmosphere in which you wish to anchor your color proposal. Names of students + class (1A3, 1A4) RESTITUTION Free and creative layout. Please ensure that your color range and the 2 harmonies remain legible (white background recommended for the color range). Your presentation should reflect the brand’s DNA as well as the creative atmosphere of your color proposals. Portrait or landscape format, A4/A3/... your choice. • PDF file to be sent to Teams AND printed in color for the session on Tuesday, November 7, 23. • Each group will present its range proposal orally during the session on Tuesday, November 7 (5 minutes maximum per group) NB. Please ensure the quality of your color laser print to be faithful to your color intentions. /3.3 /3.3 MEMO “COLOR IMPACT” : RESTITUTION 7 november 2023 1A3&1A4 Colour, Bachelor | 2023 Presentation of proposals and oral presentations by groups + EXAM REVISIONS