Summary

This document provides a comprehensive overview of common plumbing preparation techniques. It covers various methods like notching, drilling, and chasing, and explains how to measure and mark for installations. Other topics include the use of different materials and tools for pipework, insulation, and fire stopping.

Full Transcript

PowerPoint 5 Common plumbing preparation techniques LESSON INTENT Learners will work towards understanding how to carry out the following: Common Plumbing Preparation Techniques Notching Drilling Chasing Duct work Sleeving Measuring and marking out An...

PowerPoint 5 Common plumbing preparation techniques LESSON INTENT Learners will work towards understanding how to carry out the following: Common Plumbing Preparation Techniques Notching Drilling Chasing Duct work Sleeving Measuring and marking out An important stage of any installation Being able to read drawings correctly Scales in drawings Getting levels Working to the clips Measure twice, cut once FIRST FIX AND SECOND FIX “First fix” is a phrase used to describe the initial installation of pipework – both supply and waste pipework – to and from a location, without appliances being connected. These have been installed prior to the surface or floor being finished or laid. FIRST FIX AND SECOND FIX (CONTINUED) “Second fix” is a phrase used to describe the fixing of appliances ,like a bath, basin or radiator, following the first fix pipework and the finishing of any surfaces within the property. Buried pipework or cables When marking out, and before drilling, check for any buried pipes or cables. Look around for switches and sockets; it is likely that any pipes are buried in the wall or under the floorboards. Using a cable or pipe detector is useful: Commercial Domestic Flooring material Floorboards: commonly known as tongue and groove, as this denotes the way they fit together. They are laid on joists and either nailed or screwed into position. If pipework needs to be installed underneath, they will need to be lifted and replaced on the joists for support. If the cut of the floorboard is off the joist, a noggin or cleat may need to be located. Floorboards can be covered by carpet or laminate; can also be a polished finish themselves. Cross-cut, making sure the cut is over the joist where possible Cut over joist where possible Cut through the tongue using a floorboard saw or circular saw Replace floorboard When removing floorboards always using a cleat or noggin take care of any nails or screws left in the joists. Do not leave any waste in ceiling cavity. Secure firmly afterwards Flooring material Chipboard: more commonly used as a flooring on new build properties, these come in 8’ x 4’ sheets, which are tongue and groove. Removing chipboard is more difficult – the best way is to remove a section using a circular saw. Locate the joists first and mark the section out before cutting. A pad saw may have to be used to complete the corners. Notching Joists for pipe work must be done correctly as not to cause a dangerous structure Building regulations Approved document A sets out requirements for notching and drilling, and must be followed at all times. Notching: maximum depth of a notch is ⅛ of the joist depth. Example for notching A joist is 200mm deep (D) and has a span of 2.5m (S). Maximum depth of notch that can be made in this joist: 200 x 1/8 or 200 8 = 25mm Minimum distance from the wall the notch can be made: 0.07 x 2500 or 7 x 2500 100 = 175mm After notching pipework into a joist, it is advisable to use a nail guard before putting the floorboards back down or putting stud walls up. This is a metal plate that prevents a nail or screw damaging the pipework. Drilling The maximum drilled hole is ¼ of the joist depth, but must be on the centre line. Example of drilling A joist is 200mm deep (D) and has a span of 2.5m (S). What size is the largest permissible drilled hole? 200 x ¼ or 200 4 = 50mm Where in the joist can the hole be drilled? On the center line of the joist only. How close can the drilled hole be placed? Hole should be no closer than 3 x their diameter. Chasing These seams are chiselled into walls to conceal pipework or cables. To cut a chase you will need to mark out carefully, then the chase can be removed by a lump hammer and chisel, or by an angle grinder then chisel. When drilling, a lot of dust and flying particles will be produced. This means that both the operative and the customer’s property will need to be protected. The SDS drill can also be set as a chisel. This means that the hammer action works but there is no rotation. DUST SHEETS There are various types of protective coverings used in the industry. Tarpaulins – heavy-duty waterproof protective cover for protecting exterior areas from splashes and debris. Cotton dust sheets – heavy cotton twill for interior preparation and painting, protecting static items such as floors, sofas, etc. Polythene sheets – lightweight and used for protecting floors and static furniture during wet processes, as well as items such as plants, garden ornaments, etc. Cutting Chases It may be necessary to cut a chase in a wall to conceal pipework or cables. This could involve using a hammer and chisel, and SDS hammer action drill or a wall chasing machine. Caution should always be exercised; a lot of debris and dust can be created. Remove all carpet and furniture from the area; close doors and open windows. Wear PPE: goggles, ear protection, overalls and dust mask. Inspect tools before use. Be wary of installing hot and cold water pipes in a wall where they are going to be concealed. It is best practice to surface mount pipework to allow access. Chases cut into walls must not be cut deeper than: Horizontal chases – 1/6th of the wall thickness Vertical chases – 1/3rd of the wall thickness After a hole has been drilled or a chase has been created, you may be required to ‘make good’. This basically means re-filling any damage or area afterwards, so that it can have a finished surface again. The filler used will vary according to the surface damaged: interior exterior wood fillers stoppers decorator’s caulk expanding foam. Ductwork This comes in many forms. It covers and contains pipework and cables for engineers to access: these can be underfloor areas made of wooden panels or, in commercial situations, purpose-built areas. Size-wise, they range from small up to walk-in areas. All pipework in walls and ducts should be accessible. The Water Regulations state: Accessible Duct should be removable Floors able to be lifted No fitting should be: Located in cavity walls Embedded in wall or solid floor Installed under a suspended floor PIPEWORK PROTECTION Pipework insulation will protect pipework from cold penetrating the installation and prevent heat from leaving it. The best type of insulation is the closed-cell type made to BS5422 standard and installed according to BS5970 standard. Insulation must be resistant to water, mechanical damage and vermin. Recommended materials are: rigid phenolic foam PVC foam expanded polystyrene expanded rubber nitrile. All of these types of insulation material have a specific thermal count, which can be obtained from the manufacturers. BSEN 806 outlines the minimum thickness of insulation required when installing copper pipe. The basic rule of thumb with insulation is: the larger the diameter of the pipe, the thinner the insulation can be. This is because larger pipes contain a greater amount of water compared to their surface area. A commonly used insulation material is lagging. This is often used on pipework which is located under floorboards between the ground floor and first floor. The type of insulation does not have any measured thermal protection and therefore is not recommended for vulnerable areas. Sleeving All pipework going through a masonry fabric must be sleeved to allow for movement. The sleeve is generally made of the same tube, but a size larger. This also protects the pipework from corrosion. Pipework laid in floors and across joists should be covered with lagging to allow for expansion and contraction without any creaking noise. In some cases a pipe guard may be used to protect against nails and screws. Fire stopping to pipework Where pipework (including soil and vent pipes) passes between floors, the holes around the pipe must be fire stopped. This will prevent the fire, smoke and heat spreading, if a fire broke out in the property. This can be done in two ways: Intumescent collar Intumescent collars are placed around the pipe. The contents of the collar expand when heated and stop the fire spreading. Intumescent sealant Intumescent sealant acts in the same way as a collar. CHECK YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH THESE QUESTIONS 1. What is first fix? 2. What is the most common type of flooring material in domestic homes 3. maximum depth of a notch is? 4. Horizontal chases are _____ of the wall thickness 5. Vertical chases_______ of the wall thickness 6. Why is it important to protect pipework from damage? 7. Why do we sleeve pipework? 8. what helps stops fire traveling through pipework? TRAFFIC LIGHT IT: WHERE IS YOUR LEARNING AT? Red = I have not really understood the content we have studied today (write down 2 questions that you need help with) Amber = I have understood the content on Effective Questioning (write down 1 one question you need to clarify) Green = I have understood all the content (write down one example from what we have studied)

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