Bandsaw.pdf

Bandsaw          Re-saw/bandsaw mill is the most efficient for processing logs o Narrow blade, less waste o 4-6” wide o Can book-match grain Bandsaws have been around a long time and the only real improvements are the amount of guards now on them o Also very quiet, make sure it is off befor...

Bandsaw          Re-saw/bandsaw mill is the most efficient for processing logs o Narrow blade, less waste o 4-6” wide o Can book-match grain Bandsaws have been around a long time and the only real improvements are the amount of guards now on them o Also very quiet, make sure it is off before cleaning or maintenance Size of bandsaw is measured by wheel diameter o The larger the wheel the greater capacity o Larger wheels also mean taller machines Blade is a continuous loop around 2, but sometimes 3 wheels o 3 wheeled machines have greater throat capacity but suffer from more blade breakages due to the added flex Blade runs between 2 sets of blade guides o One under the table – is fixed o One above the table – is adjustable depending on thickness of part  Guides should be set about ¼” above part being cut  The max height of upper blade guide determines the re-saw capacity of the bandsaw o Guide assemblies are made up of  Thrust blocks/bearings  These prevent the blade from being pushed off the wheel  Guide blocks/bearings  Blocks are usually ceramic and wear-out faster  These prevent the blade from twisting and keep it straight in the cut, help prevent drift  Must be positioned behind the teeth of the blade  All elements in both guide sets need to be properly adjusted during each blade change Cutting force is straight down towards table o No real line of fire, though small parts can still get thrown if caught between blade and throat plate Machine is belt driven o Motor on bottom  Lower wheel is fixed o Has stepped pulleys – can lower the speed and increase torque Tension and tracking happens on the top wheel o Tension must be properly done before tracking can be attempted Proper dust collection is important o Sawdust falls into lower wheel house  Can get packed onto wheel if too much builds up  Wheel brush reduces build-up      If not careful blade can be pulled off the wheel when backing out of a cut o Especially rip cuts where the kerf closes up o Not dangerous but will most likely damage blade Most have tilting tables and rip fences o Dimensions, if any, are not accurate Steps in blade changing: o Isolate tool o Remove table key o Open wheel houses and remove guards o Back-off upper and lower guide assemblies o Remove blade tension o Carefully remove blade and fold up o Blow out dust build-up from guide assemblies and wheel houses o Unfold new blade and make sure teeth are pointing the right way o Carefully feed blade through table and onto wheels o Tension blade o Track blade o Move thrust blocks/bearings into place o Move guide block/bearings into place o Rotate wheel and check set-up o Replace guards and close wheel-houses o Replace table key o Plug tool back in o Burp-test tool to ensure everything is running smoothly Different blades for different applications o The narrower the blade the tighter the radius o Wide blades good for re-sawing boards o Can have regular tooth blades or skipped tooth (has less teeth)  Regular tooth blades will give a finer cut o Most bandsaws will take blades from 1/8” wide to 1” wide  The wider the blade the more tension it needs o 3/8” blade is a good general purpose blade, can get most jobs done o Skip tooth better for re-sawing o Blades are welded together  Bad welds can cause improper tracking  Tooth spacing around the weld needs to be consistent with the rest of the blade or it will create a rigid spot that will break faster o Folding wider blades can be dangerous  Wear gloves  Make sure when folding that you unfold with the teeth facing down Bandsaw safety o Cuts straight down o Passive/quiet machine – can cause lax safety  o Never stand on the right side of the machine – if blade breaks it can be ejected that way o Be mindful of where your fingers and thumbs are, especially as you finish a cut o Isolate when making any adjustments to the blade Avoiding drift o Clean, sharp blade o Properly tensioned o Proper blade selection o Proper guide assembly adjustments o Slow, consistent feed rate  Let the saw do the cutting