Basic Weaves (Plain, Twill, Satin & Sateen) PDF

PLAIN WEAVES  PLAIN WEAVES The plain weave is also known as “calico” or “tabby” weave It is the simplest weave among all others weaves having a repeat size of 2.  Characteristics of Plain Weave Maximum number of Binding Points No right or wrong side No lengthwise or crosswise stretch Doesn’t fr...

PLAIN WEAVES  PLAIN WEAVES The plain weave is also known as “calico” or “tabby” weave It is the simplest weave among all others weaves having a repeat size of 2.  Characteristics of Plain Weave Maximum number of Binding Points No right or wrong side No lengthwise or crosswise stretch Doesn’t fray as easily as other weaves Creases easily Less absorbent than other weaves Versatile Tightest weave structure Strong Hard-wearing Durable  Method of Representation This is the simplest weave. In this weave the threads interlace in alternate order, i.e. the first warp thread overlaps the first weft thread and passes under the second weft thread, and the second warp thread passes under the first weft thread and overlaps the second one, and so on. Textural Stability of Plain Weave in relation to other Weaves The firmness of any woven structure depends on the frequency of interlacing between the warp and weft threads. The greater the number of intersections the better will be the firmness of the cloth. Let us consider two fabrics woven with identical warp and weft counts and thread settings. Consider - one is woven as plain weave and other is woven as twill or sateen. It will be seen that the latter will be less firm, and therefore of weaker texture than the former,  Applications of Plain Weave Shirting Suiting Outer garments Sheer fabrics Blouses Dresses TWILL WEAVE  Characteristics of TWILL WEAVE  The second basic weave is the twill weave.  The main feature of this weave that distinguishes from other types is the presence of pronounced diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric.  In regular twill the diagonal lines are repeated regularly, usually running from left to right and from right to left at an angle of 45◦.  Characteristics of TWILL WEAVE  Twill weaves may vary in angle from a low slope to a very steep slope.  A twill weave require that each warp end must float over a minimum of two weft picks and under one weft pick; otherwise, it will still a plain weave. Characteristics of TWILL WEAVE  In right-hand twill, the diagonals run from right to left. It is also called as Z-Twill.  In the left-hand twill, the lines run from left to right. It is also called as S-Twill  Method of Representation The twill weaves are expressed in the form of a fraction. (2/1,3/1,3/2 etc.) The numerator of the fraction is equal to the number of weft that a warp overlaps and the denominator is equal to the number of weft that a warp underlaps within the repeat (3/1). The sum of the numerator and denominator of this fraction is the repeat of the twill.(3/1,3+1 = 4)  FIRMNESS OF TWILL WEAVE The firmness of twill weave depends upon the number of intersections per unit area. Greater the number of intersections per unit area, greater will be firmness of the weave. TYPES OF TWILL WEAVE ON THE BASIS OF CONSTRUCTION Balanced Twill Irregular Cross Twill  Balanced Weave  In this type of twill, the numerator of the fraction is equal to the denominator of the fraction i.e. 2/2, 3/3, 4/4 etc. or In this type of twill, a warp end overlaps and underlaps with equal number of picks.  This weave can be made in both direction S and Z.  Irregular Cross Weave  In this type of twill, the numerator of the fraction is not equal to the denominator of the fraction i.e. 3/2, 4/3, 2/3 etc.  In this type of twill, a warp end overlaps and underlaps with different number of picks.  This weave can be made in both direction S and Z. TYPES OF TWILL WEAVE ON THE BASIS OF FACE 1. Warp Faced Twill: In which warp threads are more prominent than weft threads. e.g., 3/1 Twill. 2. Weft Faced Twill: In which weft threads are more prominent than warp threads. e.g., 2/3 Twill. 3. Warp and Weft Faced Twill: In which warp and weft threads are equally prominent. e.g., 2/2 Twill. Prominence of Twill Weaves Following are the factors that determine the relative prominence of Twill Weaves  Nature of the yarn  Nature of the weave  Warp and Weft thread densities  The relative direction of twill and yarn twist  Nature of the Yarn  The fineness of yarn and the amount of twist given to it influence the prominence of the twill. A coarse yarn of lower twist produces a greater effect on the twill as compared to a fine yarn of higher twist.  On the other hand doubled or plied yarns have a stronger effect on the twill as compared to single yarns.  Nature of the Weave  Twills with longer floats will give more prominence as compared to those with shorter floats.  For example, a 3/1 twill will be more prominent as compared to a 2/2 twill  Warp and Weft thread densities  The twill prominence increases proportionately with the increase in warp and weft thread densities. Relative Direction of Twill and Yarn Twist (Twist Twill Interaction)  Another important factor that influences the prominence of twill is the direction of twist in the yarn. When the direction of yarn twist is same as the twill direction, the prominence is reduced and when the direction of the yarn twist is opposite to the twill direction, the prominence of the twill is increased.  In other words, a Z twill with Z twist yarn or an S twill with S twist yarn shows less prominence. On the other hand, a Z twill with S twist yarn or S twill with Z twist yarn gives more prominence. Advantages of Twill Weaves  May have face/back and up/down orientation  Interesting surface and texture  Seldom printed  Better wrinkle recovery  High counts possible (more durable) Applications of Twill Weaves  Twill weaves find a wide range of applications such as drill cloth, khaki uniforms, denim cloth, blankets, shirting, hangings and soft furnishings ,jeans. Satin and Sateen Weaves  Satin and Sateen Weaves Satin is a warp faced rearranged twill and Sateen is a rearranged weft faced twill or in Satin Weave warp is more prominent and in Sateen Weave weft is more prominent. Thus satin is the reverse side of sateen weaves. These weaves form an important category of weaves. They are used in combination with other weaves, particularly in case of ornamented fabrics. The striking feature of these weaves is their bright appearance and smooth feel because lustrous and fine count filament yarns are used; there are few interlacing points, that gives long floats; and the face yarns are fine and closely packed.  Characteristics of Satin and Sateen Weaves They are either warp or weft faced weaves. Have no prominent weave structures. Only one binding point in each end or pick. No continuous twill lines. Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility. More thread density is possible in warp and weft. More mass per unit area is possible. Have less binding points and more float lengths. Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary to construct these weaves.  Method of Representation In the construction of satin/sateen weaves, the stitching points of warp or weft for a given repeat size is done by the use of move numbers or stitch or float Numbers or Counter. Move No./ Stitch /Float Numbers/ Counter A move number or Counter is used to determine the layout of the unit repeat. In this weave, each warp yarn or end has the same i.e. one interlacing pattern in the weave with a different starting points. In laying out the design, once the first warp yarn is placed freely on the repeat unit. The move number or the counter determines the starting point of the next warp yarn. In general, the number of interlacing is kept to a minimum such that the design does not resemble a twill weave i.e. Straight diagonal line.  Rules to Select The Move No. The move numbers are selected according to the repeat size of the weave. The move number cannot be selected freely. In choosing move numbers for the construction of satin/sateen weaves the following rules are to be adopted: The move number should not be equal to the repeat size of the weave. It should not be one less than the repeat size. It should not be a factor of the repeat size. It should not be a multiple of the repeat size.  Example e.g. For 4/1 Satin ( Weave Repeat : 4+1 = 5 ) For 1/4 Sateen ( Weave Repeat : 4+1 = 5 ) Move No. 5 can never be selected as it is equal to the repeat of the weave. Move No. 4 can never be selected as it is 1 less than to the weave repeat. Move No. 1 can never be selected as it is multiple of the weave repeat. So we can use only Move No.2 and Move No.3 as these Move Nos. are neither the factor of the weave repeat nor equal to the weave repeat,1 less than weave repeat, multiple of weave repeat.  4/1 ( 5 – End ) Satin with Move No.3 (Fig.1) If given weave is 4/1 ( 5 – End ) Satin with Move No. 3 First Warp End is marked in the same pattern as the weave is given i.e. first end is filled with 4 Up ( Coloured Box ) and 1 down ( Blank Box ). To fill the second end counting of Move No.will be started from 1st up (Coloured Box ) after down ( Blank Box ) in the first end within the same repeat where counting ( from 1 to 3 as your desired Move No. is 3 ) of your desired Move No.is completed the adjacent right box of Second End is marked with down ( keep blank ) and rest boxes above and below down ( Blank Box ) is marked with up ( Coloured Boxes ). To fill the third end counting of Move No.will be started from 1st up ( Coloured Box) after down ( Blank Box ) in the second end within the same repeat where counting ( from 1 to 3 as your desired Move No. is 3 ) of your desired Move No.is completed the adjacent right box of Third end is marked with down ( keep blank ) and rest boxes above and below down ( Blank Box ) is marked with up ( Coloured Boxes ). In the same way fourth and fifth Ends are filled to complete the repeat.  4/1 ( 5 – End ) Satin with Move No.2 (Fig.2) If given weave is 4/1 ( 5 – End ) Satin with Move No. 2 First Warp End is marked in the same pattern as the weave is given i.e. first end is filled with 4 Up ( Coloured Box ) and 1 down ( Blank Box ). To fill the second end counting of Move No.will be started from 1st up (Coloured Box ) after down ( Blank Box ) in the first end within the same repeat where counting ( from 1 to 2 as your desired Move No. is 2 ) of your desired Move No.is completed the adjacent right box of second end is marked with down ( keep blank ) and rest boxes above and below down ( Blank Box ) is marked with up ( Coloured Boxes ). To fill the third end counting of Move No.will be started from 1st up ( Coloured Box) after down ( Blank Box ) in the second end within the same repeat where counting ( from 1 to 2 as your desired Move No. is 2 ) of your desired Move No.is completed the adjacent right box of Third end is marked with down ( keep blank ) and rest boxes above and below down ( Blank Box ) is marked with up ( Coloured Boxes ). In the same way fourth and fifth Ends are filled to complete the repeat. 1/4 ( 5 – End ) Sateen with Move No.2 (Fig.3) If given weave is 1/4 ( 5 – End ) Sateen with Move No. 2 First Warp End is marked in the same pattern as the weave is given i.e. first end is filled with 1 Up ( Coloured Box ) and 4 down ( Blank Box ). To fill the second end counting of Move No.will be started from 1st down ( Blank Box ) after up (Coloured Box ) in the first end within the same repeat where counting ( from 1 to 2 as your desired Move No. is 2 ) of your desired Move No.is completed the adjacent right box of second end is marked with up ( Coloured Box ) and rest boxes above and below up ( Coloured Box ) is marked with down ( Blank Boxes ). To fill third end counting of Move No.will be started from 1st down ( Blank Box ) after up (Coloured Box ) in the second end within the same repeat where counting ( from 1 to 2 as your desired Move No. is 2 ) of your desired Move No.is completed the adjacent right box of third end is marked with up ( Coloured Box ) and rest boxes above and below up ( Coloured Box ) is marked with down ( Blank Boxes ).In the same way fourth and fifth Ends are filled to complete the repeat. 1/4 ( 5 – End ) Sateen with Move No.3 (Fig.4) If given weave is 1/4 ( 5 – End ) Sateen with Move No. 3 First Warp End is marked in the same pattern as the weave is given i.e. first end is filled with 1 Up ( Coloured Box ) and 4 down ( Blank Box ). To fill the second end counting of Move No.will be started from 1st down ( Blank Box ) after up (Coloured Box ) in the first end within the same repeat where counting ( from 1 to 3 as your desired Move No. is 3 ) of your desired Move No.is completed the adjacent right box of second end is marked with up ( Coloured Box ) and rest boxes above and below up ( Coloured Box ) is marked with down ( Blank Boxes ). To fill third end counting of Move No.will be started from 1st down ( Blank Box ) after up (Coloured Box ) in the second end within the same repeat where counting ( from 1 to 3 as your desired Move No. is 3 ) of your desired Move No.is completed the adjacent right box of third end is marked with up ( Coloured Box ) and rest boxes above and below up ( Coloured Box ) is marked with down ( Blank Boxes ).In the same way fourth and fifth Ends are filled to complete the repeat. 4/1 Satin ( Move 2,3 ) , 1/4 Sateen ( Move 2,3 ) Direction of Diagonal Lines of Satin/Sateen Weave These Weaves ( Satin\Sateen ) can be produced in both ‘S’ and ‘Z’ direction. For 4/1 Satin : Move # 3 is used to make S-Satin. Move # 2 is used to make Z-Satin. For 1/4 Sateen : Move # 3 is used to make Z-Sateen. Move # 2 is used to make S-Sateen. Direction of Diagonal Lines of Satin Weave Direction of Diagonal Lines of Sateen Weave  Applications of Satin and Sateen Weaves Satin weaves find a wide range of application such as Denim Interlining Cloth Ribbons Dress materials (lustrous) Children Dress materials etc Regular and Irregular Satin/Sateen Weave Regular Satin/Sateen Weave : If Satin/Sateen Weave having a particular move no. is called as Regular Satin/Sateen Weave. Like 5 End Satin/Sateen, 8 End Satin/Sateen Irregular Satin/Sateen Weave : If Satin/Sateen Weave having no particular move no. is called as Irregular Satin/Sateen Weave. Like 4 End Satin/Sateen , 6 End Satin/Sateen Classification of Satin/Sateen Weave  Warp Satin Warp Satin If the prominence of warp floating is seen on the fabric, then this Satin is called Warp Satin. Regular Warp Satin: Regular Warp Satin is produced with a definite move No. throughout the repeat. Like 4/1 ( 5 – End ) Satin , 7/1 ( 8 – End ) Satin Irregular Warp Satin: There is no definite move number to construct the Irregular Satin throughout the repeat. Like 3/1 ( 4 – End ) Satin , 5/1 ( 6 – End ) Satin  Irregular Warp Satin 3/1 ( 4 – End ) Irregular Satin 5/1 ( 6- End ) Irregular Satin  Weft Sateen Weft Sateen If the prominence of weft floating is seen on the fabric surface, then this Sateen is called as Weft Sateen. Regular Weft Sateen: Regular Weft Sateen is produced with a definite move No. throughout the repeat. Like 1/4 ( 5 – End ) Sateen,1/7 ( 8 – End ) Sateen Irregular Weft Sateen: There is no definite move number to construct the Irregular Weft Sateen throughout the repeat. Like 1/3 ( 4 – End ) Sateen and 1/5 ( 6 – End ) Sateen Irregular Weft Sateen Irregular Weft Sateen 1/5 ( 6 – End ) Irregular Sateen  Standard Irregular Satin & Sateen Standard Irregular Satin Standard Irregular Sateen 3/1 ( 4 – End ) Satin 1/3 ( 4 – End ) Sateen 5/1 ( 6 – End ) Satin 1/5 ( 6 – End ) Sateen