Textile Weaves Quiz

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Questions and Answers

What is a plain weave also known as?

Calico or tabby weave.

List two characteristics of plain weave.

Doesn't fray easily and is strong.

Explain the method of interlacing in a plain weave.

Warp threads alternate by passing over and under the weft threads.

How does the firmness of a plain weave compare to a twill weave?

<p>Plain weave is firmer and has more intersections than twill weave.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of garments commonly use plain weave?

<p>Shirts and blouses.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What distinguishes a twill weave from other weaves?

<p>The presence of pronounced diagonal lines.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Define right-hand twill.

<p>A type of twill where the diagonals run from right to left.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How are twill weaves expressed mathematically?

<p>In the form of a fraction.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What defines the move number in relation to the weave repeat size?

<p>The move number must not equal, be one less than, be a factor of, or be a multiple of the weave repeat size.</p> Signup and view all the answers

If the weave is 4/1 (5-End) Satin, which move numbers are viable options?

<p>Move numbers 2 and 3 are viable options.</p> Signup and view all the answers

In the filling pattern for 4/1 (5-End) Satin, how is the first warp end marked?

<p>The first warp end is marked with 4 Up (Coloured Boxes) and 1 Down (Blank Box).</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe the process of filling the second end when using Move No. 3.

<p>The second end starts counting from the 1st Up after Down in the first end, marking the adjacent right box Down and the rest as Up.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the significance of counting from 1 to 3 in the warp thread placement?

<p>This counting ensures that the desired Move No. is adhered to while filling each end.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why is Move No. 1 not selected for the 4/1 Satin weave?

<p>Move No. 1 cannot be selected because it is a multiple of the weave repeat size.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What pattern is used to fill the third end during the weaving process?

<p>The process mirrors that of the second end, starting from the 1st Up after Down in the second end.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does one ensure that the design does not resemble a twill weave?

<p>By keeping the number of interlacings to a minimum, avoiding straight diagonal lines.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does the direction of yarn twist affect the prominence of twill?

<p>When the yarn twist direction matches the twill direction, the prominence is reduced; when they are opposite, the prominence is increased.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Explain the difference between satin and sateen weaves.

<p>Satin is a warp-faced rearranged twill, while sateen is a weft-faced rearranged twill; satin has more prominent warp yarns, whereas sateen has more prominent weft yarns.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What advantages do twill weaves offer in fabric production?

<p>Twill weaves provide interesting surface textures, better wrinkle recovery, and the ability to produce durable high count fabrics.</p> Signup and view all the answers

List two characteristics of satin and sateen weaves.

<p>They have few interlacing points and more float lengths; this results in a smooth appearance and a lustrous finish.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a key limitation when using satin and sateen weaves?

<p>They have poor seam strength due to the mobility of threads.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe the use of move numbers in constructing satin and sateen weaves.

<p>Move numbers are used to determine the layout of the unit repeat for the warp or weft yarns in these weaves.</p> Signup and view all the answers

In what applications are twill weaves commonly utilized?

<p>Twill weaves are commonly used in drill cloth, khaki uniforms, denim cloth, blankets, and soft furnishings.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What affects the visual appeal of satin and sateen fabrics?

<p>The use of lustrous and fine count filament yarns contributes to their bright appearance and smooth feel.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What do the numerator and denominator of the fraction representing a twill weave signify?

<p>The numerator indicates the number of weft that a warp overlaps, while the denominator represents the number of weft that a warp underlaps.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does the firmness of a twill weave get affected?

<p>The firmness of a twill weave depends on the number of intersections per unit area; more intersections result in greater firmness.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What characterizes a balanced twill weave?

<p>In a balanced twill weave, the numerator and denominator of the fraction are equal, such as 2/2 or 3/3.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the difference between warp faced twill and weft faced twill?

<p>Warp faced twill has more prominent warp threads than weft threads, while weft faced twill has more prominent weft threads than warp threads.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What factors determine the relative prominence of twill weaves?

<p>Factors include the nature of the yarn, the nature of the weave, thread densities, and the relative direction of the twill and yarn twist.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does the fineness and twist of yarn affect the prominence of twill?

<p>Finer yarn with high twist produces less effect compared to coarser yarn with lower twist, which has a greater impact on twill prominence.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the significance of floats in twill weave prominence?

<p>Longer floats in the weave provide more prominence compared to shorter floats, making twills like 3/1 more pronounced than 2/2.</p> Signup and view all the answers

In terms of thread densities, how does prominence in twill weaves change?

<p>The prominence of twill weaves increases proportionately with higher warp and weft thread densities.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Define the pattern for the first Warp End in a 4/1 (5 - End) Satin with Move No. 2.

<p>The first Warp End is filled with 4 Up (Coloured Box) and 1 down (Blank Box).</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do you begin counting for the second end in a 4/1 (5 - End) Satin with Move No. 2?

<p>Counting starts from the 1st Up (Coloured Box) after the Down (Blank Box) in the first end.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What marking is used for the adjacent right box of the second end in a 4/1 (5 - End) Satin with Move No. 2?

<p>The adjacent right box is marked with Down (Blank Box).</p> Signup and view all the answers

In a 1/4 (5 - End) Sateen with Move No. 2, how is the first Warp End structured?

<p>The first end is filled with 1 Up (Coloured Box) and 4 Down (Blank Boxes).</p> Signup and view all the answers

For the second end in a 1/4 (5 - End) Sateen with Move No. 2, where does the counting start?

<p>Counting starts from the 1st Down (Blank Box) after the Up (Coloured Box) in the first end.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the adjacent right box of the third end in a 1/4 (5 - End) Sateen with Move No. 2?

<p>The adjacent right box is marked with Up (Coloured Box).</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the significance of the Move No. in the Sateen patterns?

<p>The Move No. indicates the position shift of the warp ends in the weave structure.</p> Signup and view all the answers

In a 1/4 (5 - End) Sateen with Move No. 3, where does the first Warp End align with respect to the Up and Down boxes?

<p>The first Warp End is marked similarly to the previous patterns with a specific arrangement of Up and Down boxes.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does the filling process for the first end of a weave work with a desired Move No. of 3?

<p>The first end is filled with 1 Up (Coloured Box) and 4 down (Blank Boxes), then the second end is filled starting from the 1st down box after the Up box, repeating counting until 3.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What distinguishes 4/1 Satin in terms of Move Numbers for producing S-Satin and Z-Satin?

<p>Move #3 is used to make S-Satin, while Move #2 is used to produce Z-Satin in 4/1 Satin.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Identify two applications of Satin weaves and their significance.

<p>Satin weaves are used in dress materials and ribbons, offering a lustrous finish that enhances visual appeal.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the difference between regular and irregular Satin/Sateen Weave?

<p>Regular Satin/Sateen Weave has a specific move number, while Irregular Satin/Sateen Weave does not have a definite move number.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Explain what Warp Satin is and how it is classified.

<p>Warp Satin is defined by the prominence of warp floating in the fabric, and it can be classified as regular or irregular based on the presence of a definite move number.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe the process of filling the third end of a weave using a Move No. of 3.

<p>The filling for the third end starts from the 1st down (Blank Box) after the Up box in the second end, repeating counting until the desired Move No. of 3 is achieved.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the significance of Move Numbers in producing Regular Warp Satin?

<p>Move Numbers define the pattern and consistency in Regular Warp Satin, allowing for a controlled and uniform weave throughout.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do Sateen weaves differ from Satin in their applications?

<p>Sateen varieties, like 1/4 Sateen, are typically used for softer fabrics and can have a different sheen compared to traditional satin weaves.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Flashcards

Plain Weave

The simplest weave where threads interlace in an alternating pattern (over-under).

Plain Weave Characteristics

Strong, durable, versatile, and easily creased weave with no right/wrong side.

Twill Weave

A weave that creates a distinctive diagonal pattern, known as a twill line.

Twill Weave Characteristics

Diagonal lines, strong, durable, and varies in angles.

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Right-Hand Twill

Twill weave with diagonals running from right-to-left.

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Left-Hand Twill

Twill weave with diagonals running from left-to-right.

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Weave Firmness

The firmness of a woven fabric depends on the number of intersections between warp and weft threads.

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Plain Weave Applications

Used in shirts, suits, garments, and various other materials, including sheer fabrics and blouses and dresses.

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Twill Repeat

The total number of warp ends that are overlapped and underlapped by a weft yarn within a repeating pattern. You add the numerator and denominator of the twill fraction to find the repeat.

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Twill Fraction

A fraction used to describe the diagonal pattern in a twill weave. The numerator represents the number of warp ends that overlap a weft end. The denominator represents the number of warp ends that underlap a weft end.

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Balanced Twill

A type of twill where the numerator and denominator of the twill fraction are equal (e.g., 2/2, 3/3, 4/4). This means the warp thread overlaps and underlaps the same number of weft threads.

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Irregular Cross Twill

A type of twill where the numerator and denominator of the twill fraction are unequal (e.g., 3/2, 4/3, 2/3). It's called 'cross' because the weave changes its diagonal direction.

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Warp Faced Twill

A twill weave where the warp threads appear more prominent on the surface of the fabric. This happens when the twill fraction has a smaller denominator than numerator (e.g., 3/1).

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Weft Faced Twill

A twill weave where the weft threads appear more prominent on the surface of the fabric. This happens when the twill fraction has a larger denominator than numerator (e.g., 2/3).

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Warp and Weft Faced Twill

A twill weave where both the warp and weft threads are equally prominent on the surface of the fabric. This usually happens when the twill fraction is balanced (e.g., 2/2).

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Factors Influencing Twill Prominence

The prominence of a twill weave (how visible the diagonal pattern is) is determined by several factors: the yarn's fineness and twist, the twill weave itself, and the warp and weft thread densities.

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Twill Prominence

The prominence of a twill weave is affected by the direction of yarn twist relative to the twill direction. Same direction reduces prominence, opposite direction increases it.

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Z Twill with S Twist

A Z twill (diagonals from lower left to upper right) combined with S twist yarn (clockwise twist) results in a more prominent twill.

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Twill Weave Advantages

Twill weaves often have face/back orientation, offer interesting surface and texture, resist wrinkles, and can be made with high thread counts for durability.

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Twill Weave Applications

Twill weaves are used in various fabrics like drill cloth, khaki uniforms, denim, blankets, shirting, hangings, and soft furnishings.

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Satin/Sateen Weave: What's the difference?

Satin is a warp-faced rearranged twill with warp being more prominent, while Sateen is a weft-faced rearranged twill with weft being more prominent. Satin is essentially the reverse side of Sateen.

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Satin/Sateen Weave Characteristics

These weaves are either warp or weft-faced, lack prominent weave structures, have only one binding point per end or pick, and are known for their smooth feel and bright appearance due to long floats and closely packed yarns.

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Satin/Sateen Weave: Poor Seam Strength

Satin and Sateen weaves have poor seam strength because of the thread mobility from limited interlacing points and long floats.

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Move Numbers in Satin/Sateen

Move numbers are used to determine the layout of the unit repeat in satin and sateen weaves by specifying the stitching points of warp or weft for a given repeat size.

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Interlacing Pattern

A weave pattern where warp yarns interlace with weft yarns, starting from different points in a repeating sequence.

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Move Number

Determines the starting point of each warp yarn in the interlacing pattern, influencing the weave's appearance.

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Satin Weave Repeat

The number of warp yarns and weft yarns that repeat in a specific satin or sateen weave pattern.

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Satin/Sateen Weave Rules

Guidelines for selecting appropriate move numbers to create satin or sateen weaves with desired characteristics.

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Move Number Selection

Choosing the move number must follow specific rules to avoid unintended twill-like appearances or weak fabric structures.

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4/1 Satin

A satin weave with a repeat of 5, where 4 warp yarns are interlaced over 1 weft yarn, creating a smooth and lustrous surface.

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Filling Warp Ends

The process of placing warp yarns in the loom according to the selected move number, creating the desired satin or sateen weave pattern.

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Adjacent End Placement

The location where the next warp yarn is placed relative to the previous one, following the chosen move number, within a single repeat.

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Move No. 2 in Satin Weave

In a satin weave, a 'move' determines the spacing of the floats and the resulting pattern. Move No. 2 refers to shifting the float two positions to the right in each subsequent warp end.

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Warp End

Each individual thread that runs lengthwise in a woven fabric.

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Float

A section of yarn that runs uninterrupted over several warp ends or weft threads in a weave.

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Repeat

The repeating pattern of warp ends in a woven fabric that forms the weave structure.

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Sateen Weave

A variation of satin weave with a similar sleek surface but typically a different thread count, resulting in a slightly different appearance and feel.

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Up/Down in Warp End

In weave diagrams, 'Up' represents a warp end that floats over the weft thread, and 'Down' represents a weft end that goes under the warp end.

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Coloured Box/Blank Box

In weave diagrams, colored boxes represent 'Up' (float) and blank boxes represent 'Down' (under) for warp ends.

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Satin/Sateen Weave Direction

Satin and Sateen weaves can be produced in both 'S' and 'Z' directions. The direction of the weave depends on the move number used.

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1/4 Sateen

A type of sateen weave with a 1/4 twill fraction. Move 3 creates 'Z'-Sateen, while Move 2 creates 'S'-Satin.

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Regular Satin/Sateen Weave

A satin or sateen weave with a definite move number repeated throughout the fabric. Examples include 5 End Satin/Sateen and 8 End Satin/Sateen.

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Irregular Satin/Sateen Weave

A satin or sateen weave without a specific move number that repeats throughout. Examples include 4 End Satin/Sateen and 6 End Satin/Sateen.

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Warp Satin

A type of satin weave where the warp threads are more prominent on the fabric surface.

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Regular Warp Satin

A warp satin woven with a consistent move number throughout its repeat.

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Irregular Warp Satin

A warp satin woven without a consistent move number throughout its repeat, resulting in a more irregular pattern.

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Study Notes

Plain Weaves

  • Also known as "calico" or "tabby" weave
  • Simplest weave, with a repeat size of 2
  • Characteristics: maximum number of binding points, no right or wrong side, no lengthwise or crosswise stretch, doesn't fray easily, creases easily, less absorbent, versatile, tightest weave structure, strong, hard-wearing, and durable.

Twill Weaves

  • Second basic weave
  • Distinguishable feature: pronounced diagonal lines running along the fabric width
  • Diagonal lines are repeated regularly, usually running from left to right and from right to left at a 45-degree angle.
  • Twill weaves vary in angles from a low slope to a very steep slope.
  • Each warp end must float over a minimum of two weft picks and under one weft pick; otherwise, it's still a plain weave.
  • Right-hand twill: diagonals run from right to left (Z-twill)
  • Left-hand twill: diagonals run from left to right (S-twill)
  • Twills are expressed as fractions (e.g., 2/1, 3/1, 3/2)
  • Firmness depends on the number of intersections per unit area.

Types of Twill Weaves

  • Balanced Twill: Numerator and denominator of the fraction are equal (e.g., 2/2, 3/3)
  • Irregular Cross Twill: Numerator and denominator of the fraction are not equal (e.g., 3/2, 4/3)

Warp Faced Twill

  • Warp threads more prominent than weft threads

Weft Faced Twill

  • Weft threads more prominent than warp threads

Warp and Weft Faced Twill

  • Warp and weft threads are equally prominent

Factors Determining Twill Weave Prominence

  • Nature of the yarn: fineness and twist influence twill prominence. Coarse yarns with lower twist have a greater effect.
  • Nature of the weave: Twills with longer floats are more prominent than those with shorter floats.
  • Warp and weft thread densities: Higher densities yield more prominent twills.
  • Relative direction of twill and yarn twist: If the direction of yarn twist is the same as the twill direction, prominence is reduced; if opposite, prominence increases.

Advantages of Twill Weaves

  • May have face/back and up/down orientation
  • Interesting surface and texture
  • Seldom printed, better wrinkle recovery, high counts possible (more durable)

Applications of Twill Weaves

  • Drill cloth, khaki uniforms, denim cloth, blankets, shirting, hangings, and soft furnishings

Satin and Sateen Weaves

  • Satin is a warp-faced rearranged twill; Sateen is a weft-faced rearranged twill.
  • Satin is the reverse side of sateen.
  • Striking feature: bright appearance and smooth feel due to fine filament yarns
  • Few interlacing points = long floats, face yarns are fine and closely packed.

Satin Characteristics

  • Warp or weft faced weaves
  • No prominent weave structures
  • Only one binding point in each end or pick
  • Continuous twill lines
  • Have poor seam strength
  • Higher thread density possible in wrap and weft leading to more mass per unit area
  • Fewer binding points and longer float lengths
  • Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary

Satin/Sateen Method of Representation

  • In satin/sateen weaves, stitching points of warp or weft for a given repeat size are done by using move numbers or stitch or float numbers.

Satin Application

  • Denim, Interlining cloth, ribbons, dress materials (lustrous), children's dress materials

Regular and Irregular Satin/Sateen Weaves

  • Regular: has a particular move number.
  • Irregular: do not have a specific move number

Classification of Satin/Sateen Weaves

  • Warp Satin
  • Weft Satin
  • Regular Warp Satin/Irregular Warp Satin
  • Regular Weft Satin/Irregular Weft Satin

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