Interno Dispensa VEP 2024 - Alberto Brunelli PDF

Organised by Under the patronage of The Rules for Wine Production in Valpolicella by Alberto Brunelli Oenologist Technical Department Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella INDEX CHAPTER 1: History of wine production in Valpolicella 1.1 The dawn of enology in the Verona area and in Valpolicella...

Organised by Under the patronage of The Rules for Wine Production in Valpolicella by Alberto Brunelli Oenologist Technical Department Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella INDEX CHAPTER 1: History of wine production in Valpolicella 1.1 The dawn of enology in the Verona area and in Valpolicella 7 1.2 The 1960s and 1970s 8 1.3 The 1980s and 1990s 9 1.4 The 2000s and today’s outlook 11 CHAPTER 2: The National and EU regulations on wine production 2.1 EU Legislation 14 2.2 The Italian Legislation 16 2.3 Focus: the Vineyard Register and management of vineyards 19 CHAPTER 3: Valpolicella wine Production rules 3.1 What are the Production rules and what comprises them 21 3.2 A brief history of Valpolicella’s Rules 22 3.3 Common traits of Valpolicella’s Rules 24 3.4 Distinctive traits of the “Valpolicella DOC” and “Valpolicella Ripasso DOC” Rules 25 3.5 Distinctive traits of the “Amarone Valpolicella DOCG” and “Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG” Rules 27 3.6 Mentions, specifications, and packaging 28 CHAPTER 4: Production management tools 4.1 Measures envisaged by the Consolidated Law 30 4.2 The measures specified in the Production Rules 34 CHAPTER 1: History of wine production in Valpolicella 1.1 The dawn of enology in the Verona area and in Valpolicella To better comprehend the nature of the specific viticultural regulations for Valpolicella wine, it’s essential to review at least the most important part of the region’s enological history starting from the XIX century. In those days, enology could not yet be considered an overall set of rules and was taught in general at the so-called Traveling Enology Schools; later, enology schools were instituted at San Michele all’Adige (1874) and Conegliano (1876). The first na-tional enological conference was held in Verona in 1876, attended by illustrious Veronese scholars like Antonio Manganotti, Gaetano Pellegrini, and Antonio Bertoli. In 1891 Arturo Marescalchi, a wine technician who graduated from the Enological School in Conegliano, founded the “Society of Italian Wine Technicians” with 46 colleagues; it was to be the forerun-ner of today’s Association of Italian Enologists (Assoenologi). This sets the figure of the wine technician prior to that of the enologist in becoming a fundamental factor in the production of the finest wines, impeccable and more profitable. In the early decades of the 1900s, phylloxera spread among the vineyards in Valpolicella, and here, too, only by grafting vitis vinifera on American vines worked to beat the parasite. Powdery mildew and Peronospora also came along. All this put viticulture at risk of disappear-ing; its legacy alone was no longer sufficient to guide viticulturists in fighting calamities and improving crops. This new scenario deeply affected viticulture, leading to the separation be-tween wine producer and winemaker. In any event, phylloxera appeared in the Verona area fairly late (the first sighting in Valpolicella was in 1908), which made it possible to learn from the experience of others. Great strides were made in ampelography, and in 1886 a Veronese committee identified a whole 175 different varieties of which 44 white, 38 red, 73 black or purply, and 20 uncertain. However, in those days enology was eclipsed, with poor qualitative results despite immense potential; some of the first significant fruits came in the late 1800s. Federico Martinotti, Dir. of the Enological Station in Asti, fine-tuned the second fermentation method by the same name in autoclave, later perfected and spread by French engineer Eugene Charmat; in the meantime, the French defined the wine “Costa Calda” from Negrar as “Su-preme Wine of Italy”, similar to the best Bordeaux wine. In the early decades of the 1900s in Valpolicella, the first cooperative wineries were founded—in Sant’Ambrogio in 1900 and Fumane in 1901. Unfortunately they were later brought to bankruptcy by the general devastation of the vineyards—an economic condition that would worsen during the first world war until its collapse in 1929. In 1933 the Cooperative Winery in Negrar was born, precisely to combine the efforts of the first partners and start pro-ducing again. The origin of the name Amarone dates back to 7  1936 at Villa Mosconi wineries in Novare di Negrar; the first bottle labeled Amarone is dated 1939 and today is kept at the Cantina Valpolicella in Negrar. That same year the Cooperative winery in San Pietro in Cariano was also founded. During the second world war in Valpolicella the use of arele or taoloni (fig. 1)—originally for the cultivation of silkworms— to partially dry the grapes spread more and more. The tradi-tional patriarchal family structure founded on self-sufficiency and labor wavered in the 1950s, and young people left the countryside. These factors would cause depreciation of the grapes in the decades to come and the abandonment of the hilly areas. In that period, the demijohn was the most common container for wine, and the producers’ biggest problem was how to opti-mize bottling. fig.1 Taoloni made of arele. 1.2 The 1960s and 1970s In the 1960s Valpolicella’s landscape was characterized by the cultivation of vineyards and olive groves, but unlike today, even by fields of cereals and orchards. The typical architectonic elements of the landscape were Roman parochial churches, ancient churches, and Venetian vil-las—the latter used by nobility as vacation homes. Adding a unique touch to this backdrop are the ancient “marogne”, typical dry stone walls made to support the terraces and thus allow for cultivation even on the most impracticable slopes. In those years qualification of the Italian DOCs began, especially with law 930 of 8 1963. The year after, the Verona Chamber of Com-merce breathed life into the Provincial Wine Committee. Starting in 1965, dialogue began in Valpolicella between town halls, cooperative wineries, producers, businessmen, and trades-men. After complex talks, they agreed to expand the area under the Valpolicella designation, which then became law on August 21, 1968, with the announcement of the first Production Rules for Valpolicella and Recioto della Valpolicella. Since then, despite all sorts of amend- ments and updates, the boundaries to the area set by the Rules have never changed from an enological viewpoint, the 1960s were characterized by winery practices essentially meant to limit defects during vinification and to guarantee good stabilization. While the first applications of pasteurization ideated by Enzo Rivella were taking hold— which through thermal inactivation allowed for relatively easy transportation (and therefore exportation), limiting the fraudulent use of anti-fermentation agents—tartaric stabilization also developed through ion-exchange resins. During the 1970s (the so-called “austerity years”), there was a shift from chemical enology to one that can be defined as chemical/physical. Indeed, fundamentally it was the advent of stainless steel as a material for wine barrels and equipment (crushers, presses, centrifuges, etc.) and the introduction of inert gases for bottling. All this, together with the new technology for controlling temperatures, manifested in an orientation towards producing fragrant, fresh wine with low alcohol content. Imagining you could go back in time to a winery and enter its attic, the famous “picai” would immediately grab your attention—vertical lines on which grape bunches are hung for partial drying. Given this placement of the bunches in single lines (and therefore very aerated), the process draws to an end extremely rapidly. In general, partial dry-ing calls for a great deal of manpower and very large rooms, located solely in the hills to avoid fog (which was a constant in the climate of lower Valpolicella back then) as much as possible. Nevertheless, due to the sole use of natural ventilation, it is extremely difficult to control and contain Botrytis cinerea in the drying room, to the point that you get perfect results in just 2/3 vintages out of 10. Worn-out barrels were used for aging in wood, so that there was no trans-fer whatsoever of positive, characterizing substances to the wine—thus, the results were in- consistent. A colder climate than today, together with poor control over partial drying, and overly productive viticulture led to a “subtle” Amarone style with raw, astringent tannins and moderate alcohol content. 1.3 The 1980s and 1990s In the 1980s came the advent of the first biotechnology in the winery which led to profound changes; fermentation guided by select yeasts and clarified, extremely clean musts yielded technological wine. The pre-fermentation cleaning techniques made it possible to attain wine with good aromatic expression, even though this—if taken to an extreme—can lead to weak structures and poor aging prospects. At that time, 9  Valpolicella laid 30-40,000 quintals of grapes to partially dry per year (slightly more than in the last decade), especially for the production of Recioto, while the young, not very alcoholic wine trend ignited the American fad of wine coolers and 8 ½ Giacobazzi. This was also when white Veronese wine made a comeback, like Soave and Custoza. In the mid-1980s, there was a depression during which viticulture was barely scraping by; costs exceeded profits, and high productivity was superficially seen as a remedy for this situation. This sparked a downward spiral of the general quality that would then determine a lull in wine consumption. This scenario set the scene for one of the worst moments in Italian enology—the methanol scandal which culminated in 1986. In any case, as of that tragedy when the Italian wine industry hit rock bottom, its resurgence began; the government embarked on a thorough cleanup and many companies were forced to close, making room for healthy, well-oriented companies. Extreme competition pushed wineries to invest in technology and the arrival of modern bottling systems in a sterile atmosphere marked the divide between empiricism and the scientific method. Even the corporate structure changed. To-wards the late 1980s in Valpolicella, urged by the Californian boutique wineries, companies morphed from simple production and storage infrastructures to highly fascinating complexes, made even to be toured. New tasting rooms, stores, and greeting areas became a constant for large and small wineries alike. Even the landscape transformed—the cereal fields and orchards increasingly gave way to those of the grapevine, and in tandem, some rural areas underwent urban expansion, also known as “negrarizzazione”. These winds of change led to a trend rever- sal all over Italy; while in 1980, they made 88% table wine and just 12% Doc wine, now table wine dropped to 40%, the Doc and Docg rose to 33%, and the Igt went up to 23%. In this decade, key research on grapes being partially dried was also carried out by Prof. Usseglio Tomasset. Since the 1990s, major change has taken place. After years of white wine being popular, consumers started to really appreciate red wine, too. The way was thus paved for the exploitation of Valpolicella wine; as proof of this, by the late 1990s there were crops of approximately 550,000 quintals of grapes, of which about 80,000 was allocated to partial drying. It is against this backdrop that in 1990, a change to the Rules definitively separated Recioto from Amarone; from 1995 onwards, it was the moment of the great red wines and Amarone ousted even Recioto, permanently taking the lead and increasing its success, also thanks to a change in mentality among wine producers in Valpolicella, who began to optimize their production efforts. This happened both by improving the grape selection and by investing in structural changes increasingly oriented towards the part of aging in wood—the bottle cellar would become a real star of the winery. The entire enological technique thus was geared towards developing fine red wine (ad hoc fermenters, punch-down systems, and rotary fermenters were introduced), but one of the primary issues with Amarone is its organoleptic characteristics which can be hard to deal with. Because of the change in style with the advent of small oak casks in Valpoli- cella, early Amarone wine yielded hints of wood, at times clumsy and sharp-edged. Over time, as it continued to acquire its own structural identity, Amarone received its 10 first international recognition, first and foremost thanks to the wine-and-food guides starting to take center stage and which pushed for improvement in quality and towards “muscular” wine. Luigi Veronelli spoke enthusiastically about Amarone, decreeing its growing success, “I drink, I get excited, I drink more, a surprise at every sip due to the decadent magnificence of appearance, aro-ma, and mouthfeel of the Recioto Amarone from Torbe.” Secondly, research, too, fueled Amarone’s ascent: numerous studies exalted the characteristics of resveratrol and it was discovered that Amarone contains something like eight times more than in other red wine. New technologies took hold starting with Usseglio Tommaset’s, Claudio Delfini’s and Lamberto Paronetto’s research. The evolution of the partial drying technique spoke to a quest for better quality, going from the rudimentary “picai” to an innovative integrated management. Indeed, Prof. Roberto Ferrarini fine-tuned a system of partial drying management at room temperature with an inte-grated humidity and temperature control system meant to prevent frequent Botrytis cinerea attacks; this technique spread to all companies starting in the late 1990s. Finally, this way you could get to the crushing stage with healthier grapes, preserving the quality arduously created in the vineyard and making it much more uniform in the different vintages. For that which concerns viticulture in the 1990s, you could say that at that point climate change began widely determining lower malic acid content. The quest for excellence continued starting in the vineyard with clonal selection, shrewd farm management, few crops per hectare and, in general, more professional workers. 1.4 The 2000s and today’s outlook In the 2000s, Valpolicella finally joined the ranks of precision enology’s modern biotechnology. By that time, all wine enterprises had completely revamped their winery’s old equipment, also thanks to a hand from “computer” factors; thanks to Internet, exchanges of new techno-logical models between the old and new world were facilitated. Moreover, new biotechnology took root, with specific lees (cryophiles, deacidifying (malic acid), killers), enzymes for maceration, addition of malolactic fermentations and their control with lysozyme. Viewing it from another angle, there was a marked change in the work methods of all those in the wine industry—there was a shift from a “remedial” attitude, that is, geared towards honing the wine’s quality by dealing with its inadequacies and shortcomings, to a “preventive” one, which instead sought an ideal definition of the product and consequently decides what path to take using all necessary tools so that the goal is achieved. Therefore, the path was paved for a new concept of quality based on the ability to transfer the grape’s qualities to the wine and enhance them, by translating them into a richer, harmonious product, typical and clearly more intense, gratifying, and enticing and popular. Amarone’s style evolved, thanks to the awareness of its potential, especially in light of the splash it made around the world. As of 2005, Valpolicella changed even more; its wine became more recherche 11  and quite different than the decade before, expressing tradition and modernity, and a new big player took the stage: Valpolicella Ripasso. In that period, the amount of grapes laid to rest was over 200,000 quintals per year (of about 700,000 total), and great efforts were focused on partial drying techniques, introducing the use of plastic crates, much more practical and hygienic. Lastly, as far as the vineyards, as of 2005 there has been a temperature increase due to global climate change, which in a cold region like Valpolicella brings about paradoxically positive effects; grape ripening improves and the harvest begins on average a month early compared to the decade before. Moreover, the average temperatures increase analogously during the partial drying period. A series of extremely phenologically precocious years (2001-2003-2007-2009) made the grapes ripen with much higher sugar and phenol content, which together with the perfect management of partial dry-ing allowed for the production of wine with highly significant alcohol by volume and body—a new challenge which biotechnology and winery procedures would have to adapt to. Another important point on these years is the return of viticulture in the high hills for the first time after its abandonment in the 1950s; regaining these areas here was perhaps the first sign of a focus on protecting the territory. The renovation and redevelopment of the ancient “marogne” began as well, making them a key element in the recognizability of Valpolicella’s landscape. In 2010, the Production rules changed yet again: Amarone became a DOCG, autochthonous grape varieties were reintroduced, the obligation to bottle in the production area was added, and in general the Designation was monitored more. Surface areas and crops of grapes were still increasing and today reach 900,000 quintals in total, of which over 300,000 laid to partially dry. Over the past few years, Amarone wine has taken on a more refined style, and the body and concentration of the wine are no longer the only values considered; their originality and ability to evoke an entire terroir have become important. There has been a shift from technological to varietal enology; it’s no longer the grapes that have to adapt to the vinification process, but rather it is the latter which changes based on their intrinsic connotations. Know-how and research became essential tools in protecting, comprehending, and enhancing the raw material. In the wake of Valpolicella wine’s international excess, many small grape producers found the courage to establish their own winery; thus, there was a change in the socioeconomic fabric of the territory. Protection and sustainability became inexorable requirements, and the increase in virtuous vineyards led to the adoption of reforesting initiatives, boundary hedges, and tree shelterbelts around the vineyards. There was a new interpretation of the role of aging in wood at wineries, which became an increasingly powerful tool for emphasizing the wine. In fact, its use was linked to the grapes’ polyphenolic structure already determined in the vineyard, and to knowledge of the complex interactions between oxygen, wine, wood, and time. A savvy coordination of these variables today allows for the effective control of maceration timing and a fruitful integrated use of wood and steel in fermentation also meant to precisely manage the oxygen. The technological history and experience of the past decades have led to ever more 12 modern and enological approaches, starting from the selection of autochthonous yeast cultures and up to temperature control at all stages and to fermentation conducted with low-impact technology. Increasing professionalism also allowed for very uniform results, without leaving anything to chance and cutting fermentation accidents almost to zero, in addition to a certain command of malolactic fermentation. The natural evolution of all this consists in more and more innovative technology, geared towards respecting the grape quality, like vinification techniques without sulfur dioxide, membrane separation techniques, micro-oxygenation, and electro-dialysis. For grape drying as well, today there are new philosophies: the evolution of the integrated management of factors, for example, is based on studies of the efficiency of ventilation (fig.2) through measurements of the air speed and direction in order to provide forecasts useful in managing partial drying (and not to just undergo it, as was done in the past). It’s clear how at the base of everything it is fundamental to know and protect the grapes in order to define enological and business objectives; this is also the premise for all the new viticultural policies in Valpolicella, from precision viticulture to bringing back ancient autochthonous grape varieties with impressive enological potential, like Cabrusina and Spigamonti, as proof of how the past can sometimes provide resources that make the future itself more fascinating. fig. 2 The efficiency of ventilation for grape drying. 13  CHAPTER 2: The National and EU regulations on wine production Before delving deeper into the analysis of the Valpolicella D.O. Production rules, it seems only right to briefly describe the higher regulatory bases—national and EU— which regulate wine production. The rules in question are structured on different levels, ordered according to a precise hierarchy laid forth below in order of importance (and therefore of prevalence). EU Level, which in turn includes a primary plan covering the rules of the Single Common Organization of the Market and the international agreements which the European Union has closed on the topic (which prevail over that very Single Common Organization of the Market), and a secondary plan that covers the different implementing regulations and statutory instruments issued by the EU Commission. National Level, made up of current regulations with legal validity (which includes the “Consolidated Law”) and with effect dependent upon the implementing ministerial regulations and the implementation circulars. 2.1 EU Legislation For that which concerns EU regulations, the production and sale of wine—just like the world of Geographical Indications—are regulated meticulously to provide an adequate, solid foundation for the member states which in turn apply them, but always staying closely tied to them and maintaining their characteristics. The European vine growing and wine producing legislation derives from the Common Organization of the Market (COM) for wine, which subsists in the broader context of the Common Agricultural Policy, one of the original responsibilities of the European Community. Some of the fundamental purposes of these rules are to facilitate the sale of member states’ wine throughout the entire European Union, and to foster effective protection of the Geographical Indications (obviously including the Designations of Italian origin). To this regard, the base regulatory references are listed below, taking into account that in particular the statutory instruments undergo frequent changes, so the part in them to be considered is the current consolidated text at the relevant moment. EU Regulation no. 1308/2013 of the European Parliament and Council on the “Single Common Organization of the Market”, in which there are specific rules applicable to wine products, amended by the Common Agricultural Policy reform in 2013 which also affected the Common Organization of the Market for Wine, the “Omnibus” Regulation (Agricultural Part) and the regulation EU/2127/2021 by effect of the reform of the Common Agricultural Policy 2023/2027. EU Regulation/2126/2021 on the financing, management, and monitoring of the common agricultural policy, which repeals and replaces EU regulation 1306/2013. EU Regulation/2125/2021 on support for strategic Common Agricultural Policies 14 that the member states must draft, financed by the European Agricultural Guarantee Fund (FEAGA) and the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development (FEASR). This regulation repeals and replaces regulations EU/1305/2013 and EU/1307/2013). EU Regulation no. 555/2008 of the Commission, concerning the support programs, ex-changes with third countries, production potential, and audits in the wine industry. EU delegated regulation 273/2018 concerning, among other things, the vineyard register, compulsory reporting, and information for the control of the market, delivery notes, and wine industry record-keeping. This regulation repeals EU regulation no. 436/2009. Regulation 934/2019 of the Commission, containing the Enological Code, which repeals the previous EU regulation no. 606/2009. Implementing regulation (EU) 2016/1150 of the Commission, of April 15, 2016, containing methods of application of regulation (EU) no. 1308/2013 of the European Parliament and Council for that which concerns national programs to support the wine industry; Implementing regulation (EU) 2016/1149 of the Commission, of April 15, 2016, which integrates regulation (EU) no. 1308/2013 of the European Parliament and Council for that which concerns national programs to support the wine industry and amends regulation (EC) no. 555/2008 of the Commission. Implementing regulation 273/2018 and Implementing regulation 274/2018 which made new changes to the legislation which implements the basic regulation and repealed Implementing regulation 560/2015 and Implementing regulation 561/2015 concerning the regime of vine planting authorizations. Implementing regulation (EU) 2019/33 of the Commission, which integrates regulation (EU) no. 1308/2013 of the European Parliament and Council for that which concerns the applications for protection of the designations of origin, geographical indications, and traditional mentions in the wine industry, the opposition procedure, restrictions of use, changes to the Production rules, cancellation of the protection as well as the labeling and presentation. This regulation repeals EU regulation no. 607/2009 of the Commission. Implementing regulation (EU) 2019/34 of the Commission, containing methods of ap-plication of the regulation (EU) no. 1308/2013 of the European Parliament and Council for that which concerns the applications for protection of the designations of origin, geographical indications, and traditional mentions in the wine industry, the opposition procedure, changes to the Production rules, the register of protected names, cancella-tion of the protection and of the use of the symbols, regulation (EU) no. 1306/2013 of the European Parliament and Council for that which concerns a suitable system of au-dits. Parliament and Council Regulation no. 848/2018 on organic wine (articles 18 and 35, as well as Attachment II, part VI) whose provisions replace those of Commission Regulation no. 203/2012. European Council and Parliament Regulation no. 251/2014 on aromatized wines. 15  2.2 The Italian Legislation To date, the current text of reference for Italian vine growing and wine producing legisla- tion is undoubtedly Law 238/2016, commonly referred to as “Consolidated Law”, which assimilated and repealed Legislative Decree 10 August 2000, no. 260 (Sanctioning provisions in application of the EU regulation on the common organization of the wine market), Legislative Decree 8 April 2010, no. 61 (Protection of the designations of origin and geographical indications of wine) and Law 20 February 2006, no. 82 (Provisions for implementation of EU regulations concerning the Common organization of the wine market). In any event, there are some provisions that the Consolidated Law’s entry into effect practically did not influence, listed below: 26 March 1989, Presidential Decree no. 327 on the rules for taking samples to analyze. 30 November 2011, approval of the Production rules for established PDO and PGI wine and their technical files. 13 August 2012, national provisions in application of regulation (EC) no. 1234/2007 of the Council and application regulation (EC) no. 607/2009 of the Commission, for that which concerns the PDOs, PGIs, traditional mentions, labeling and presentation of certain products from the wine industry. 7 November 2012, nationwide procedure for the presentation and examination of the applications for protection of the PDOs and PGIs of wines and for a change to the rules, as set forth in EC Regulation no. 1234/2007 and legislative decree no. 61/2010. (Off. Journ. 24 November 2012, no. 275). 26 October 2015, national provisions of implementation of regulation (EU) of the Commission no. 436/2009, inherent to harvest and wine production reporting. 19 February 2015, no. 1213, conversion into authorization of the vineyard replanting rights. 15 December 2015, no. 12272, authorization system for vine planting, later amended by Ministerial Decree 935 of 13 February 2018. 23 December 2015, procedural aspects for the issuance of authorization for transitional labeling of PDO and PGI wine. 18 April 2016, implementation of the measure “promotion on third country markets”. In any event, the Consolidated Law (Law 238/2016), can definitely be recognized as the fundamental codification of Italian legislation in this area, consistent with the recent reform of the Single CMO in 2013 and a combination of the main current Italian regulations on vine growing and production and sale of wine. The Consolidated Law—besides “tidying up” by reuniting and codifying the regulations pre-viously in effect, but broken up into different provisions—also thankfully brought innovation compared to previous legislation. This was a double-edged sword, given the consequent need to amend the ministerial regulation for implementation, with specific Implementing degrees, some which have already entered into effect, others still being 16 drafted or pending approval. In any case, the principal changes introduced by Law 238/2016 regard the following aspects: Protection of the “autochthonous Italian grape variety” (art. 6) and safeguard of the he-roic or historic vineyards, which binds the State to promote “interventions to restore, bring back, maintain, and safeguard vineyards in areas exposed to hydrogeological in- stability or with particular landscape, historical, and environmental merit“ (art. 7). Introduction of the notion of “winery” or “enological establishment” in legislation (art. 9). Authorization for certain fermentations outside of the harvest period, for wine with the traditional mention “lively”, not to mention those without a geographical indication (art. 10). Permission to use production surplus (art. 35), as long as within the limit of 20%, not just for lesser designations, but also for the same level of designation. Creation of the mention “Grand selection” for DOCG wine (art. 31). Changes to the rules of the consortia (art. 41), whose responsibilities were expanded, allowing them to “exercise functions of protection, promotion, enhancement, consumer information, and general handling of the interests of the related designation”, as well as to carry out the activity of promoting wine tourism and authorizing the option to trace products with computerized monitoring systems, for wine packaged as D.O. and G.I. (art. 48). Printing of reliable state marks at private printing shops as well, as long as they are authorized (also art. 48). Simplification of inspections putting them under the “single register of inspections” (art. 63) as well as introducing the principle of sole inspector for the companies subject to audits by several bodies (art. 64). More severe sanctions for the most serious violations, along with better treatment— through warning or “voluntary correction of errors” procedure (art. 84)—for those who err but that likely acted in good faith. Administration of maintenance permitted to companies located along the “wine routes” (art. 87). For that which concerns the ministerial regulations for implementation of the Consolidated Law, those already in effect and the issues that they are applicable to, taking into account that the material is constantly being updated. The list of products made using cooked must (as set forth in art. 12 Consolidated Law) updated with Ministerial Decree 14 July 2017. The organic products (art. 20 Consolidated Law) regulated as already seen within the European Union (Reg. 848/2018/EU), are governed in Italy by Ministerial Implementing Decree of 5/8/2018. The prohibition to sell wine not compliant with current regulations (art. 25 Consolidated Law) is provided for by Ministerial Decree 10 August 2017. The National Wine Committee (art. 40 Consolidated Law) is also governed by Ministeri-al Decree 3/30/2017. 17  The vinegar register (art. 54 Consolidated Law) was implemented with Ministerial Decree 685 of 6/22/2017. The regulation of the different denaturations (lees, water, and other substances, must for juice, wine for vinegar, or containing prohibited products) is set forth by the new Ministerial Decree 11294 of 9/25/2017. The register of sugary substances (art. 60 Consolidated Law) is governed by Ministerial Decree 945 of 9/6/2017 and its annex. The possession of must allocated for the preparation of grape juice (art. 15 and 17 Con- solidated Law) is in Ministerial Decree 944 of 9/6/2017. The inspections are governed by Ministerial Decree 7552 of 2 August 2018 for that which concerns the inspections on PDO and PGI wine (unfortunately the most important part of the reform in this area brought forth by art. 64 of the Consolidated Law was re- moved, and that is, the sole inspector) and by Ministerial Decree 6788 of 18 July 2018 for the inspections on wine without designation of origin (art. 66 Consolidated Law) For the enology contests (art. 42 Consolidated Law) Ministerial Decree 9/11/2017 ap-plies. Fermentations out of season (art. 10 Consolidated Law) are governed by Ministerial De- cree 2583 of 10 March 2020 (which replaced Ministerial Decree 6706 of 11/23/2017). The prohibition to use pieces of oak for aging Italian PDO wine (art. 23 Consolidated Law) is laid forth by Ministerial Decree 6/21/2017. Traceability at establishments where products made from wine grapes are kept to- gether with those from grapes not registered in the national register of vine varieties is laid forth by Ministerial Decree 748 of 7/7/2017. The dematerialized register of loading and unloading of vinegars (art. 54 Consolidated Law) is in Ministerial Decree 685 of 6/22/2017. The authority to the general managers of the ICQRF (Central Fraud Repression Inspec- torate) territorial offices to inflict administrative sanctions (part VII Consolidated Law) is in Ministerial Decree 457 of 1/12/2017. The list of traditional food products (art. 12, paragraph 1, Consolidated Law) is usually updated yearly (last update Ministerial Decree 2/15/2021). The protection consortia (art. 41 Consolidated Law) are covered by Ministerial Decree 18 July 2018 (art. 41. Consolidated Law). The chemical and organoleptic tests and the activity of the tasting committees for PDO wine (art. 64 and 65 Consolidated Law), are governed by Ministerial Decree March 12, 2019. The harvest and production reporting (art. 58 Consolidated Law) are covered by Ministerial Decree 18 July 2019, no. 7701. The marks for DOCG and DOC wine (art. 48 Consolidated Law) are governed by Ministe-rial Decree 27 February 2020, no. 2183, with an alternative system of computer traceability. The heroic and historic vineyards (art. 7 Consolidated Law) are governed by Ministerial Decree 30 June 2020, no. 6899. 18 Some other aspects of the viticultural regulations that are currently being updated are the following (indicated with reference to current regulations): Procedure for assignment of protection to PDO and PGI, still governed in Italy by Ministerial Decree 7 November 2012. Labeling and the use of the designations in Italian regulations, still governed by Ministerial Decree 13 August 2012. Assertion of the crops (art. 37 Consolidated Law) still integrated by Ministerial Decree 5811 of 10/26/2015, updated by Ministerial Decree 6523 of 12/5/2016. National procedures for examination of the applications for protection of the PDOs and PGIs not to mention for that of the changes to the rules, still governed by Ministerial Decree 7 November 2012. Grape varieties usable in the production of wine products (art. 5 Consolidated Law), cur-rently governed by Ministerial Decree 12/16/2010. Designation, preparation, treatments for vinegars (art. 49, 52 and 53 Consolidated Law). 2.3 Focus: the Vineyard Register and management of vineyards The “Schedario Viticolo” (Vineyard Register) is a database with all the information for the vineyards in a geo-graphical area in terms of surface area, agronomic characteristics, grape varieties grown, types of vine training, plant spacing, and types of wine attainable. In fact, it is a fundamental tool in the monitoring of the wine industry and therefore in the management of production potential—factors closely linked to the donation of funds to companies. As far as the regulations, the “actual” instatement of this tool can be traced back, in the European Union, to Regulation (EEC) no. 2392/86 and to Regulation (EEC) no. 649/87 of the Committee, for the instatement of the community vineyard register, and in Italy, to the Ministerial Decree of 10 February 1987 which charged AIMA - State Agency for Intervention in the Agricultural Market (now AGEA -Agricultural Payments Agency) to create and manage the national vineyard register. Regulation (EC) No. 234/2007 of the Council (October 22, 2007) gives more provisions for the member states, which are bound to keep their own vineyard register and to submit an updated inventory of production potential to the Commission by March 1st every year, if the measure “budding over and restructuring of vineyards” is envisaged in their support programs. On this basis, the Commission adopts methods of application for the vineyard register and inventory, with particular emphasis on their use for surveillance of production potential. Legislative Decree no. 61/2010 would later change the management of the Italian viticultural system to align it both with the EU provisions of the time on the donation of funds for the agricultural industry, and with the production chain’s needs in terms of 19  simplifying the bureaucracy and transparency. Technically speaking, the measurement of surface areas went from being based on the cadastre to being based more reliably and precisely on the GIS (Geographic Information System) which recreates the boundaries (“polygons”) obtained from aerial photographs of vineyards onto digital mapping; the EU now requires this system for all farmland that gets funding from the European Union. The Vineyard Register became a database managed by the region, powered by the information provided by the producers themselves (with ad hoc assistance centers) and used by the entities in charge of inspecting the production chain. Making the Vineyard Register the only source of information for managing the industry, the so- called “Vineyard registers” were shut down, as they were much less dynamic tools in the possession of the chambers of commerce. This likely facilitated the producers’ flexibility over corporate decisions, also based on the mar-ket trend or farming year. Besides entailing this advantage, the registration of vineyards in the Register is the intransgressible premise for changing the company wine production potential (e.g., pulling out, replanting, purchase of authorizations, etc.), accessing the support measures provided for by European, domestic, and regional regulations, and lastly, in order to complete the harvest and production reporting and assert the D.O. crops. The European axiom on management of vineyards (and therefore on the vineyard register), is based on the prohibition to plant wine grapevines without an authorization to plant for the same surface area as the vineyard that you are making. Planting a vineyard for wine grapes is therefore only allowed if backed by authorizations, which there are different kinds of, and are managed and quotas are set for specifically nationwide. Instead regarding companies’ obligations in terms of production, based on the vineyards added to the Vineyard register, they must electronically submit a single statement to notify the government of the amount of grapes harvested, the wine obtained from them, and the type of wine that they want to sell (DOCG, DOC, varietal wine, etc.) based on the technical elements of the vineyard area which determine its suitability, a concept at the basis of being able to assert. Currently, nationwide, the instatement and keeping of the vineyard register (art. 8 Consolidated Law), are governed by Ministerial Decree 12/15/2015. The Consolidated Law (Law 238/2016), under art. 8, references and completes that in effect, but without (for right now) subsequent implementing provisions; specifically, besides that already described, it ties the regional management of the Vineyard register to the NAIS (National Agricultural Information System), based on the data from the company file, as well as the authorization system for vine planting. Veneto’s Vineyard Register, that the producers of the entire region are under, and there- fore also Valpolicella, was established with the Regional Council decision 1217 of 17 May 2002, and is managed by AVEPA (Veneto Agency for Payments). Management of 20 vineyards and the assertion of new blocks in Valpolicella for over a decade now has been a crucial point in setting quotas for the production potential; the measures taken to this regard are addressed specifically in the chapter about extraordinary tools for regulating production. CHAPTER 3: Valpolicella wine Production rules 3.1 What are the Production rules and what comprises them Production rules for a wine are technically a regulatory document with state provisions inherent to a certain wine production, and that therefore define the fundamental parameters and requirements for a Designation of Origin product. In other words, the Rules are thus a set of rules that a wine producer must adhere to in order to bear a specific certification. Every Wine Designation in the Italian territory has its Production rules: for example, if a producer of “Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG” does not follow all the regulations in the corresponding Production rules, they will not be able to sell the product with that designation. The standards in the Rules undergo very clear checks; the function of these contrivances is therefore to guarantee, protect, and preserve the quality and excellence of Italian wine. As already mentioned, Production rules include regulations on all aspects of wine production, from growing the vines to sale of the finished product. It is divided up into different articles, each of which govern a specific aspect; hereinafter is the most common structure of Production rules, taking into account that they may vary (usually in the last articles) according to the specific characteristics of each individual designation: Article 1 (Designation and Wines): gives instructions on the exact name of the desig- nation and on the different types of wine you may produce. Article 2 (Ampelographic base): gives the different grape varieties from which you must make the wine of the D.O., as well as the percentage range in which you may use them. Article 3 (Grape production area): gives the area and sub-areas of origin of the grapes which are made into the wines of the designation, in the form of a detailed descrip- tion complete with very precise boundaries, both natural and administrative, as well as environmental references. Article 4 (Rules for viticulture): gives the environmental conditions and the conditions for the cultivation of the vines (land, density, types of training, printing systems, etc.), the maximum grape yields per hectare of vineyard and the natural alcohol by volume. Article 5 (Rules for vinification): gives all the mandatory prescriptions regarding the operations of vinification, maturation, aging, and evolution of the wine, as well as the earliest date allowed for placement on the market. Article 6 (Characteristics upon consumption): gives the main properties and organolep- 21  tic characteristics that the different wines under the designation must have. Article 7 (Designation and labeling): gives the possible additional mentions, with in- structions on where and how to place that information on the label. Article 8 (Rules for packaging): gives the characteristics (capacity, sizes, material, etc.) of the receptacles that will hold the wine in question once put up for sale. Article 9 (Ties with the geographical environment): describes the characteristics of the geographical area of the D.O. and its history, the human factors linked to the technique and development of viticulture in these areas, in addition to listing a series of curiosities and interesting anecdotes. Article 10 (References to the control body): gives all the references of the body in charge of verifying compliance with the regulations in the Rules. 3.2 A brief history of Valpolicella’s Rules Up until the 1960s, the Italian viticultural scene was, for the most part, full of confusion, regulatory gaps, fraud, and divisions. In 1963 Law 930/63 laid the foundations for the modern-day quality classification of wine by drawing from French legislation, introducing the concept of a marked off production area for each DOC and Production rules with precise production regulations. So in the years right after that, the first Italian DOCs (Controlled Designations of Origin) were formed. In Valpolicella, before getting to the DOC, there were several years of diatribes among producers, divided among those who wanted the DOC only granted to the five municipalities of the historic area of Valpolicella wine production (the “classical” area) and those instead who wanted to include the adjacent territory to the east as well, analogous to the “classical” area in all elements of the terroir. The recognition of the DOC (with the publication of the first Production rules) took fig. 3 Official Journal with the Presidential Decree of 21 August 1968. 22 place with Presidential Decree of 21 August 1968 (fig. 3 - O.J. October 21, 1968). The area’s boundaries were set, also including the territories farthest east of the Classical area, from Valpantena and the northern part of the city of Verona, to the valleys of Illasi, Mezzane, and Tregnago up to Montecchia di Crosara: the Rules thoroughly describe this boundary and it has never changed since 1968. The first were “single” (unified) Rules which covered the “Valpolicella” types, basic dry wine, and “Recioto della Valpolicella”, finer sweet wine. The term “Amarone” was mentioned in those first Rules only as a mention attributable to the dry version of Recioto, and nothing more. The ampelographic base now required is based on three mandatory varieties—Corvina, Rondinella e Molinara—with the chance to minimally and optionally use other grape varieties (Rossignola, Negrara, Barbera, and Sangiovese). Besides the area of origin, many parts of the 1968 Rules have remained intact: from the total yield of 12 tons per hectare to the prohibition to put laudatory qualifications on the label, from the grape-to-wine ratio (70% for Valpolicella and 40% for Recioto della Valpolicella), to the “Superiore” mention. After a few changes in 1976 (Presidential Decree 03 June 1976) the Valpolicella Rules, still in a “single” format, underwent a decisive change required by Presidential Decree 27 December 1990 (O.J. 14 May 1991): Amarone della Valpolicella was legally recognized as a separate wine (so no longer just a niche type of Recioto), given its growing popularity in production terms and its reputation. Therefore this wine joined the ranks of the two already in the Rules and so it had its own regulations. In 2003, the Rules were further improved, and while the procedures for the recognition of DOCG for Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella were launched, the so-called “Ripasso War” drew to a close. It was about the term “ripasso” which refers to the technique by the same name that has been linked to the Valpolicella area since time immemorial. A name already registered in 1988 as an exclusive brand of a company that was the first to exploit it commercially (thus warning other producers that they could not), was instead deemed by the Protection Consortium and other companies to be a traditionally widespread technique that all producers have the right to use and name, being the inalienable heritage of Valpolicella. The arm wrestling began in 1996 and went on until when the “Ripasso” and “Ripasso wine” trademarks were sold to the Verona Chamber of Commerce in 2006. As of the version of the Rules published with O.J. September 22, 2007, it is allowed to use the “ripasso” mention for “Valpolicella” wine re-elaborated with that technique. In 2010, the Valpolicella Rules would take on a new form, improved and published the next year with Ministerial Decree 30 November 2011 (O.J. 20 December 2011): they went from being single Rules to separate Rules for each wine. Firstly, Valpolicella Ripasso was recognized as a DOC of its own, and from that moment on it took off all over the world, becoming the most produced wine of the Valpolicella Designation in the years to come. Secondly, Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella became DOCG, deservedly reaching the highest level of Italian quality classification. At this point, 23  the Rules are four (Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG), and are aligned with the EU and domestic regulations for that which concerns allowed closures, the bottling area, and many other aspects. A further round of changes ended in 2019 (DM 02 August 2019) and involved all the Valpolicella Rules that underwent adjustments for an update, and the ampelographic base was changed under art. 2, equating the use of Corvinone with that of Corvina (so theoretically, you could also use solely this variety). However, the most important change concerns art. 5 of the Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Rules, where the production technique is described all over again, also setting some quantitative provisions, which ended up being very complicated given the uniqueness of the technique to standardize. Lastly, Decree 3 August 2023 made other small amendments regarding processing opera-tions for wine bearing the “Classico” and “Valpantena” mentions outside of the respective sub-areas but within the DOC area, and allowing this wine to be aged not just in the subareas, but in the entire DOC area. Moreover, the container sizes permitted for Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella wine were increased, allowing glass bottles up to 15 liters and limiting the permit-ted closures to the standard cork alone (without specifying the material). 3.3 Common traits of Valpolicella’s Rules The four sets of Production rules for the respective wines from Valpolicella have many traits in common, some of which—as already mentioned—have remained intact since the first 1968 version. Below these traits are briefly described, article by article. Article 1: this article definitely changes for each set of rules, indicating the types of wine and mentions covered. Article 2: the ampelographic base allowed is the same for all Valpolicella wine, and is therefore common to all four sets of rules: - Corvina Veronese (Cruina or Corvina) and/or Corvinone from 45% to 95 %; - Rondinella from 5 % to 30 %. The abovesaid wines may contain no more than 25% of these grape varieties: - non aromatic redberry grapes, admitted for cultivation within the province of Verona according to the National Register of vine varieties approved by Ministerial Decree of 7 May 2004 (OJ no. 242 of 14 October 2004) and following updates (attachment 1), up to a maximum of 15% with a maximum limit of 10% for every single vine used; - redberry grapes classified as local Italian grapes under law no. 238/2016, Art. 6, admitted for cultivation in the Province of Verona according to the National Register of vine varieties approved by DM (OJ no. 242 of 14 October 2004) and following updates (attachment 1) for the remaining quantity of 10% of the total. Article 3: even the production area (and the two subareas) for the grapes is the same for 24 all the Valpolicella wine, and is therefore common to all four sets of rules. Article 4: although this article lists specific aspects for each wine, most of its provi- sions are common to all four sets of rules. For example, the types of training allowed (espalier and Veronese pergola), the minimum plants per hectare (3,300), the maxi- mum grape yield per hectare (12 t). Article 5: vinification regulations are pretty specific based on the type of wine (pro- cessing, sugar content and alcohol by volume, aging, etc.); however, the phrasing of the first three paragraphs on the operations allowed in the DOC area and subareas is analogous. Article 6: this article, too, is specific to each wine, since it gives the analytical parame- ters on the shelf. The only Valpolicella Education identical part among Program all the2022 Valpolicella wine is the Total minimum Acidity of 5 g/L. Article 7: the5:labeling Article provisions vinification (e.g., regulations areobligation to state pretty specific basedtheonvintage, the typeoption of wineto(pro- use “Vineyard” mentions cessing, and/or and sugar content other indications alcohol as long by volume, aging,asetc.); theyhowever, are notthelaudatory phrasingorof de- the ceptive) first three are the paragraphs same on the in the four operations sets of rules. allowed in the DOC area and subareas is anal- Articleogous. 8: while the capacity, size, material, and closure of the containers vary from Article 6: this article, too, is specific to each wine, since it gives the analytical parameters wine to wine, instead the provision that has them put on the market “in traditional glass on the shelf. The only identical part among all the Valpolicella wine is the Total minimum bottles...dressed in a manner suitable to their worthy nature” is the same. Acidity of 5 g/L. Article 9: the7:description Article the labeling of the ties (e.g., provisions with obligation the geographical to state environment and human the vintage, option to use and environmental factors is almost identical among the four Valpolicella “Vineyard” mentions and/or other indications as long as they are not laudatory wines,or ex- de- cept for ceptive) are thecharacteristics, some specific same in the fourforsets of rules.linked to partial drying or the ripasso example Article 8: while the capacity, size, material, and closure of the containers vary from wine technique. Articleto10: wine, instead since the the provision control bodythat is has them put currently theonsame the market for all“in thetraditional glass bot- grape-producing tles...dressed in a manner suitable to their worthy nature” is the same. crops in Valpolicella, this article is identical in all four sets of rules. Article 9: the description of the ties with the geographical environment and human and environmental factors is almost identical among the four Valpolicella wines, except for some specific characteristics, for example linked to partial drying or the ripasso tech- 3.4 Distinctive traits of the “Valpolicella DOC” and “Valpolicella Ripasso nique. DOC” ArticleRules 10: since the control body is currently the same for all the grape-producing crops in Valpolicella, this article is identical in all four sets of rules. 3.4 Distinctive The traits Valpolicella DOC of the and“Valpolicella ValpolicellaDOC” and “Valpolicella Ripasso DOC ProductionRipassorules—given DOC” Rules that the latter is conceptually a derivative of the former—have many similarities,that The Valpolicella DOC and Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Production rules—given thenolatter if for otheris conceptually a derivative of the former—have many similarities, if for no other reason than the reason than the roots of the respective regulations. roots of the respective regulations. GRAPES WINE TYPE Yield Minimum Grap Minimum Max. Max. Total Minimum Minimum per natural e-to- actual Residual Residual minim non- aging hectare alcohol wine alcohol potent. reducing um reducing period (t) (%vol.) ratio content alcohol sugar acidity extract (years) (%) (%vol.) (%vol.) (g/l) (g/l) (g/l) Valpolicella DOC 12 10.00 70 11.00 Max 5.00 18.00 0.40 Valpolicella DOC 12 11.00 70 12.00 5.00 20.00 1 Superiore Valpolicella Ripasso 12 10.00 70 12.50 Max 5.00 24.00 1 DOC 0.60 Valpolicella Ripasso 12 11.00 70 13.00 5.00 26.00 1 DOC Superiore tab. 1AsThe youValpolicella can tell by DOC the above and table, first and Valpolicella foremost Ripasso DOC these two designations Production rules. have the re- 25 quirements linked to grape production in common: the 70% grape-to-wine ratio (the one for Val- policella Ripasso is described in more detail in the Rules), the 10% minimum natural alcohol by volume (11% vol. for the “Superiore” versions), besides the aforementioned maximum grape 19  As you can tell by the above table (tab. 1), first and foremost these two designations have the requirements linked to grape production in common: the 70% grape-to-wine ratio (the one for Valpolicella Ripasso is described in more detail in the Rules), the 10% minimum natural alcohol by volume (11% vol. for the “Superiore” versions), besides the aforementioned maximum grape yield per hectare (12 t). For that which concerns the requirements linked to wine put on the market, the minimum alcohol by volume and minimum extract, indicators of the wine’s “body”, increase depending on whether it is Valpolicella DOC (11% vol., 18 g/l of extract) or Valpolicella DOC Superiore (12% vol., 20 g/l of extract), and the same goes for Valpolicella Ripasso DOC (12.5% vol., 24 g/l of extract) or Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Superiore (13% vol., 26 g/l of extract). Moreover, the maximum residual unfermented sugar limits (expressed in potential alcohol by volume %) are set at 0.40% by volume for Valpolicella DOC and 0.60% by volume for Valpolicella Ripasso DOC. Lastly, among the “measurable” parameters, the minimum aging of one year for Valpolicella DOC Superiore is set (citing the Rules: “starting from January 1st of the year after the year of grape production”), while minimum aging is not set for non-Superiore Valpolicella DOC. Minimum aging of one year is also set for Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, both Superiore and non-Superiore, dictating that it must be released on the market “no earlier than January 1st of the second year after the harvest year”. In all cases, the only aspect defined regarding aging is the total minimum duration; for example, there is no mention of the characteristics of the containers or material they have to be made out of. After having analyzed the main parameters regulated, it’s only right to carefully study the recent regulations for Valpolicella Ripasso DOC (Ministerial Decree 08.02.2019). In fact, this provision stood as the conclusion of a multi-year facelift process to set the principal aspects of the ripasso technique, totally rewriting most of article 5 in the Rules. The drafting of these rules was very complex, since it was necessary to bring the regulatory structure required in Italy and in the European Union into uniformity with Valpolicella Ripasso’s special production connotation, the fruit of a technique found nowhere else in the world, which requires productive interconnection among various other wines under the Designation. To sum it all up: - They define the practice as “one-time only additional fermentation on the marc of wines meant to become that same designation (Valpolicella Ripasso), after the extraction of the products to be made into “Recioto della Valpolicella” and/or “Amarone della Valpolicella”. - They define the component added by that marc, whose liquid fraction “must be between 10% and 15% of the volume used of the wine to be made into the “Valpolicella Ripasso” […]”. - They set the minimum total alcohol by volume ensured by the wine used for the second fermentation, which must have at least “11.5% vol. for the making of “Valpolicella Ripasso” and 12.5% vol. for the making of “Valpolicella Ripasso superiore”. 26 - They set the minimum conditions to guarantee that second fermentation takes place; for example, the marc “has to have minimum potential residual alcohol of at least 0.50% vol.”, and “the ripasso operation must last for a minimum of three days”. - Compared to the last version of the Rules, the provision that requires that “the amount of wine to be made into ‘Valpolicella Ripasso’ […] usable for the ripasso operation is at most double the volume of finished ‘Recioto della Valpolicella’ and/or ‘Amarone della Valpolicella’” stays the same. - They determine the maximum grape-to-finished wine ratio, which “must not be above 71.8 hL per hectare”. This amount is obtained by adding the maximum attainable— observing the abovesaid 2 to 1 ratio with Amarone (62.4 hl per hectare)—to the maximum attainable from the marc (9.36 hl per hectare). - They prescribe that the two components of the finished wine, that is, the wine originally used and the marc with its liquid fraction, “must belong to the same producer who carries out—or has someone carry out on its behalf–the second fermentation […]”. Substantially, this innovation is meant to foster stabilization of the biochemical and sensory model of Valpolicella Ripasso to enhance its identity and recognizability with consumers. Moreover, asValpolicella far as sales, Education Program this also has 2022 a positive effect on other territorial references—besides improving Valpolicella Ripasso’s quality with a fixed portion of Amarone, it’s easierthat - They prescribe tothe modulate the amount two components of Amarone of the finished released wine, that on the is, the wine market and originally Valpolicella DOC used and is relaunched the marc with its liquidasfraction, an independent “must belong name. to the In theproducer same area ofwho production, carries this out—or has someone carry out also allows for more company planning. on its behalf–the second fermentation […]”. Substantially, this innovation is meant to foster stabilization of the biochemical and sensory model of Valpolicella Ripasso to enhance its identity and recognizability with consumers. Moreover, as far as sales, this also has a positive effect on other territorial references—besides improving3.5 Distinctive Valpolicella traits Ripasso’s of the quality “Amarone with Valpolicella a fixed portion of Amarone, DOCG” andto“Recioto it’s easier modulate della the amount of Valpolicella DOCG” Amarone released Rules on the market and Valpolicella DOC is relaunched as an independent name. In the area of production, this also allows for more company planning. 3.5 Distinctive traits of the “Amarone Valpolicella DOCG” and “Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG” EvenRules the Production rules for Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG and Recioto della Even the Production rules for Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG and Recioto della Valpolicella Valpolicella DOCG, DOCG, of similar of similar origin, have origin, have a lot in common. a lot in common. GRAPES WINE TYPE Usable Minimum Grape Minimum Max. Max. Total Minimum Minimum quantity natural -to- actual Residual Residual minimum non- aging per hectare alcohol wine alcohol potent. reducing acidity reducing period (t) (%vol.) ratio content (%vol.) sugar (g/l) extract (years) (%) (%vol.) (g/l) (g/l) Amarone della 7.8 11.00 40 14.00 9.00 5.00 28.00 2 Valpolicella 14.00 DOCG Amarone della 7.8 11.00 40 14.00 9.00 5.00 32.00 4 Valpolicella 14.00 DOCG Reserve Recioto della 7.8 11.00 40 12.00 Minimum 5.00 28.00 Valpolicella 14.00 2.80 DOCG Recioto della 7.8 11.00 40 12.00 Minimum 5.00 28.00 Valpolicella 14.00 2.80 DOCG Sparkling wine tab.As2shown The Production rules in the table, the for Amarone common features aredella Valpolicella especially DOCG evident for andconcerns that which Recioto della the requirements linked to the grapes, recalling that they must undergo partial drying: this, citing 27 Valpolicella DOCG. the Rules, “must take place in a suitable environment and can be carried out with the aid of air conditioning systems providing they operate at temperatures analogous to those of the tradi- tional partial drying processes, excluding any dehumidification system that works using heat”. They set the 40% maximum grape-to-wine ratio, 11% minimum natural alcohol by volume for grapes when harvested, and the 14% minimum potential alcohol content. Of the maximum yield per hectare (12 t), just 65% (7.8 t per hectare) can be used to make Amarone della Valpoli-  As shown in the table (tab. 2), the common features are especially evident for that which concerns the requirements linked to the grapes, recalling that they must undergo partial drying: this, cit-ing the Rules, “must take place in a suitable environment and can be carried out with the aid of air conditioning systems providing they operate at temperatures analogous to those of the traditional partial drying processes, excluding any dehumidification system that works using heat”. They set the 40% maximum grape-to-wine ratio, 11% minimum natural alcohol by volume for grapes when harvested, and the 14% minimum potential alcohol content. Of the maximum yield per hectare (12 t), just 65% (7.8 t per hectare) can be used to make Amarone della Valpo-licella DOCG and/or Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG; this selection limit—as will be seen here-inafter—can be lowered by regional provisions adopted annually in cases provided for by current regulations. The partial drying period, too, which must go on at least until December 1, can be changed by regional provisions by request of the protection consortium, allowing crushing prior to that date. For that which concerns the requirements for wine put on the market, the minimum alcohol by volume for Amarone has to be 14% vol., and 12% vol. for Recioto, with a minimum extract of 28 g/l (minimum 32 g/l only for the Amarone with the mention “Reserve”). The residual sugar permitted is specifically regulated: for Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG—dessert wine—the residual limit set is expressed as minimum potential alcohol of 2.80% vol. For Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG—dry wine—the maximum residual limit is set at 9 g/l, with the option to increase it in proportion to the alcohol by volume, to balance it out. Specifically, besides the aforesaid 9 g/l, “an additional 0.1 g/L of residual sugar is allowed for every 0.10% vol. of actual alcohol by volume over the 14% vol. and up to 16% vol., and 0.15 g/L of residual sugar for every 0.10% vol. of actual alcohol by volume over 16%.” Aging before placement on the market is not regulated for Recioto; for Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG it is set at a minimum of two years starting on the January 1st after the grape growing year. For the Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG with the specification “reserve”, the aging period must be at least 4 years starting from November 1st of the year of the harvest. In this case as well, no other aspect of aging is mentioned except for its total minimum duration. 3.6 Mentions, specifications, and packaging To summarize, the Valpolicella D.O. Production rules provide for some mentions and specifications that can be used in presentation and labeling, as long as certain requirements are met (geographical, analytical, etc.): - The mention “Classico”, which can be used for all D.O. wine from Valpolicella, refers to wine made from the grapes from the subzone outlined under art. 3, paragraph three. - The geographical specification “Valpantena”, which can be used for all D.O. wine from 28 Valpolicella, refers to wine made from the grapes from the subzone outlined under art. 3, paragraph two. - The “Superiore” specification, which can be used for Valpolicella DOC and Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, refers to wine with the highest quality requirements already mentioned in chapter 3.4. - The “Riserva” specification, which can be used for Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, refers to wine with the highest quality requirements (extract, aging, etc.) already men- tioned in chapter 3.5. - The “sparkling wine” indication for that particular type of Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG, which now is extremely rare. - The mention “Vigna” (Vineyard or synonyms) accompanied by the corresponding place-name or traditional name, “providing that the relative surface is separately listed in the Veneto Region’s Vineyard List and that the partial drying, vinification, and aging of the wine take place in separate receptacles and that the mention, accompanied by place-name, is indicated on the grape report and in the production declaration, registers, and on the accompanying documents”. The reference regulation for the Veneto Region, which thus also governs theValpolicella Education Program “Vigna” (Vineyard) mentions2022 from Valpolicella, is Decree of the Regional Government 1243/2019. indicated on the grape report and in the production declaration, registers, and on the ac- In any companying documents”. event, as already The reference mentioned, regulation for all the Production the of rules Veneto Region, which the Valpolicella thus also D.O.s say governs the Vineyard mentions from Valpolicella, is Decree of the Regional that the year of grape production must be stated. Moreover, the use of any specification Government 1243/2019. other than those expressly contemplated by the Rules themselves is forbidden, including In any event, as already mentioned, all the Production rules of the Valpolicella D.O.s say that the adjectives the year of grape“extra”, “fine”, production must“scelto”, andMoreover, be stated. the like,the butusereferences to names,other of any specification company than names, privatecontemplated those expressly or consortium trademarks by the are allowed, Rules themselves providing is forbidden, they including thedo not have adjectives “ex-a tra”, “fine”,meaning laudatory “scelto”, and and the are like, not but suchreferences to names, as to mislead company names, private or consor- consumers. tium that For trademarks whichareconcerns allowed, the providing they doon provisions not wine have apackaging laudatory meaning and arecapacity, (receptacles, not such as to mislead consumers. material, allowed closures), besides that already mentioned in general, the table below For that which concerns the provisions on wine packaging (receptacles, capacity, material, summarizes that besides allowed closures), which thethatfour Valpolicella already mentioned Rule sets state in general, table3): the(tab. below summarizes that which the four Valpolicella Rule sets state: Set of rules and types Sizes and allowed closures Indicated under art. 1 Indicated under art. 8 “Valpolicella” 1) All the “Valpolicella” controlled designation of origin wines must be can also be designated with the words put on the market in traditional glass bottles, dressed in a manner “classico” and “Valpantena” and with suitable to their worthy nature. the specification “superiore”. 2) For the packaging of the wine designated with the “Valpolicella” controlled designation of origin under article 1, the following closure systems are required: a) for bottles with a capacity below 0.375 liters: use the systems re- quired by the central regulations, except for the crown cap; b) for bottles with a capacity from 0.375 L to 1.5 L: use the standard cork, use the screw cap with a long outside skirt and the glass cap; c) for bottles with a capacity over 1.5 L and up to 18 L: exclusively use the standard stopper made out of cork. 3) Plus, for “Valpolicella” wine without any additional mention and/or specification, you are allowed to use containers alternative to glass comprised of a costrel in multilayered polyethylene or poly- ester plastic material enclosed in a cardboard covering or other stiff material, in volumes from 2 to 3 L. “Valpolicella Ripasso” 1) All the “Valpolicella Ripasso” controlled designation of origin wines can also be designated with the words must be put on the market in traditional glass bottles, dressed in a “classico” and “Valpantena” and with manner suitable to their worthy nature. the specification “superiore”. 2) Using crown, screw, or pull-off caps is prohibited for closing these bottles; however, for bottles up to 0.375 L you can use a screw cap, too. 29 “Amarone della Valpolicella” 1) All the “Amarone della Valpolicella” controlled and guaranteed des- can also be designated with the words ignation of origin wines must be put on the market in traditional glass “classico” and “Valpantena” and with bottles with a maximum capacity of 5 liters, dressed in a manner suita- the specification “reserve”. ble to their worthy nature. However, at the request of the companies concerned, the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies may grant specific authorization for the use of 9 or 12-liter bottles. 2) The systems contemplated by the national and EU regulation in  controlled designation of origin under article 1, the following closure systems are required: a) for bottles with a capacity below 0.375 liters: use the systems re- quired by the central regulations, except for the crown cap; Valpolicella Education b) for bottles with aProgram 2024 capacity from 0.375 L to 1.5 L: use the standard cork, use the screw cap with a long outside skirt and the glass cap; c) for bottles with a capacity over 1.5 L and up to 18 L: exclusively use the standard stopper made out of cork. 3) Plus, for “Valpolicella” wine without any additional mention 3) Plus, for “Valpolicella” wine without any additional mention and/or specification, you are allowed to use containers alternative and/or specification, you are allowed to use containers alternative to glass comprised of a costrel in multilayered polyethylene or poly- to glass comprised of a costrel in multilayered polyethylene or poly- ester plastic ester plastic material material enclosed enclosed inin a a cardboard cardboard covering covering oror other other stiff stiff material, in material, in volumes volumes from from 2 2 to to 3 3 L. L. “Valpolicella “Valpolicella Ripasso” Ripasso” 1) All 1) All the the “Valpolicella “Valpolicella Ripasso” Ripasso” controlled controlled designation designation of of origin origin wines wines can can also also be be designated designated with with the the words must be words must be put put on on the the market market inin traditional traditional glass glass bottles, bottles, dressed dressed inin a a “classico” “classico” and and “Valpantena” “Valpantena” and and with with manner suitable manner suitable to to their their worthy worthy nature. nature. the specification “superiore”. 2) Using crown, screw, or pull-off caps is prohibited for closing these bottles; however, for bottles up to 0.375 L you can use a screw cap, too. “Amarone della Valpolicella” 1) All the “Amarone della Valpolicella” controlled and guaranteed des- can also be designated with the words ignation of origin wines must be put on the market in traditional glass “classico” and “classico” and “Valpantena” “Valpantena” and and with with bottles bottles with with aa maximum maximum capacity capacity ofof 5 15liters, liters,dressed dressedininaamanner mannersuita- suit- the specification the specification “reserve”. “reserve”. ble abletototheir theirworthy worthynature. nature.However, at the request of the companies concerned, the Ministry 2) Using a standard corkoftoAgricultural, Food and close said bottles Forestry Policies is mandatory. However,may grant specific for bottles up authorization to 0.250 L youforcanthe useuse of 9 orcap a screw 12-liter with abottles. long outside 2) Thetoo. skirt, systems contemplated by the national and EU regulation in force are deemed suitable to close the aforesaid bottles. For bottles up “Recioto della Valpolicella” 1. All the “Recioto della Valpolicella” controlled and guaranteed desig- to 0.375 L you can use a screw cap, too. can also be designated with the words nation of origin wines must be put on the market in traditional glass “classico” and “Valpantena”. bottles with a maximum capacity of 15 liters, dressed in a manner suit- Sparkling “Recioto della Valpolicella”, 23 able to their worthy nature. can also be designated with the word 2. Using a standard cork to close said bottles is mandatory. However, “Valpantena”. for bottles up to 0.250 L you can use a screw cap with a long outside skirt, too. 3. The systems contemplated by the national and EU regulation in force are deemed suitable to close «Recioto della Valpolicella» spar- kling wine bottles. tab. 3 The four Valpolicella Rule sets. CHAPTER 4: Production management tools The current regulations give the region some management prerogatives (even extraordinary) over grape-producing crops which are based on the protection consortia’s reasoned requests. The latter—which strike at the heart of the needs and the conditions of the wine designations they represent—consequently have a much broader responsibility, being in charge of the petitions to manage the offering to exploit the markets, in addition to the well-known institutional functions of enhancement, promotion, and protection of the products in their scope. These prerogatives are linked to specific tools (provided for by current regulations and the very Production rules) which will be briefly explained below, delving deeper into those actually used over the years by the Consortium for the Protection of Valpolicella Wine. 24 4.1 Measures envisaged by the Consolidated Law Law 238/2016, under article 39 (Management of Products), gives exact possible actions for the regions—by proposal of the consortia—which may be implemented for justified reasons of various nature, cited below: 30 “1. For PDO wine, in years with good weather, by proposal of the consortia and after consulting the trade organizations and the region’s trade organizations, they can allocate a maximum yield surplus of 20% as set forth in article 35, paragraph one, letter d), to a harvest reserve to deal with scarce crops in coming years up to the maximum limit for yields set by the Production rules or permitted by a regional provision to meet market demands. By proposal of the consortia and after consulting the trade organizations and the region’s trade organizations, in years with bad weather, they can reduce the maximum grape and wine yields allowed up to the real yearly limit. 2. The regions can reduce the maximum yield of wine classifiable as a D.O. and even the maximum grape yield per hectare and the related grape-to-wine ratio to achieve a balanced market, by proposal of the protection consortia and after consulting the trade organizations and the region’s trade organizations, and establish the allocation of the product affected by the reduction. The regions can also allow producers to comply with the reduction of the maximum classifiable yield also by declassing quotas of wine from that designation or type stored at the company, produced in the past three years. 3. By proposal of the protection consortia and after consulting the most representative trade organizations and the region’s trade organizations, the regions may regulate the registration of vineyards in the register for t