The Anarchist Cookbook PDF

ANARCHY COOKBOOK VERSION 2000 Pictures and Reformatting for Word6 by Louis Helm Table of Contents 1.Counterfeiting Money 2.Credit Card Fraud 3.Making Plastic Explosives 4.Picking Master Locks 5.The Arts of Lockpicking I 6.The Arts of Lockpicking II 7.Solidox Bombs 8.High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox 9...

ANARCHY COOKBOOK VERSION 2000 Pictures and Reformatting for Word6 by Louis Helm Table of Contents 1.Counterfeiting Money 2.Credit Card Fraud 3.Making Plastic Explosives 4.Picking Master Locks 5.The Arts of Lockpicking I 6.The Arts of Lockpicking II 7.Solidox Bombs 8.High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox 9.COý Bombs 10.Thermite II Bombs 11.Touch Explosives 12.Letter Bombs 13.Paint Bombs 14.Ways to send a car to HELL 15.Do you hate school? 16.Phone related vandalism 17.Highway police radar jamming 18.Smoke Bombs 19.Mail Box Bombs 20.Hot-wiring cars 21.Napalm 22.Fertilizer Bomb 23.Tennis Ball Bomb 24.Diskette Bombs 25.Unlisted Phone Numbers 26.Fuses 27.How to make Potassium Nitrate 28.Exploding Lightbulbs 29.Under water igniters 30.Home-brew blast cannon 31.Chemical Equivalency List 32.Phone Taps 33.Landmines 34.A different Molitov Cocktail 35.Phone Systems Tutorial I 36.Phone Systems Tutorial II 37.Basic Alliance Teleconferencing 38.Aqua Box Plans 39.Hindenberg Bomb 40.How to Kill Someone 41.Phone Systems Tutorial III 42.Black Box Plans 43.The Blotto Box 44.Blowgun 45.Brown Box Plans 46.Calcium Carbide Bomb 47.More Ways to Send a Car to Hell 48.Ripping off Change Machines 49.Clear Box Plans 50.CNA Number Listing 51.Electronic Terrorism 52.Start a Conf. w/o 2600hz or MF 53.Dynamite 54.Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower 55.How to Break into BBs Express 56.Firebomb 57.Fuse Bomb 58.Generic Bomb 59.Green Box Plans 60.Portable Grenade Launcher 61.Basic Hacking Tutorial I 62.Basic Hacking Tutorial II 63.Hacking DEC's 64.Harmless Bombs 65.Breaking into Houses 66.Hypnotism 67.Remote Informer Issue #1 68.Jackpotting ATM Machines 69.Jug Bomb 70.Fun at K-Mart 71.Mace Substitute 72.How to Grow Marijuana 73.Match Head Bomb 74.Terrorizing McDonalds 75."Mentor's" Last Words 76.The Myth of the 2600hz Detector 77.Blue Box Plans 78.Napalm II 79.Nitroglycerin Recipe 80.Operation: Fuckup 81.Stealing Calls from Payphones 82.Pool Fun 83.Free Postage 84.Unstable Explosives 85.Weird Drugs 86.The Art of Carding 87.Recognizing Credit Cards 88.How to Get a New Identity 89.Remote Informer Issue #2 90.Remote Informer Issue #3 91.Remote Informer Issue #4 92.Remote Informer Issue #5 93.Phreaker's Guide to Loop Lines 94.Ma-Bell Tutorial 95.Getting Money out of Pay Phones 96.Computer-based PBX 97.PC-Pursuit Port Statistics 98.Pearl Box Plans 99.The Phreak File 100.Red Box Plans 101.RemObS 102.Scarlet Box Plans 103.Silver Box Plans 104.Bell Trashing 105.Canadian WATS Phonebook 106.Hacking TRW 107.Hacking VAX & UNIX 108.Verification Circuits 109.White Box Plans 110.The BLAST Box 111.Dealing with the R&R Operator 112.Cellular Phone Phreaking 113.Cheesebox Plans 114.Start Your Own Conferences 115.Gold Box Plans 116.The History of ESS 117.The Lunch Box 118.Olive Box Plans 119.The Tron Box 120.More TRW Info 121."Phreaker's Phunhouse" 122.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27 123.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27 124.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28 125.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28 126.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28 127.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30 128.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30 129.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30 130.Sodium Chlorate 131.Mercury Fulminate 132.Improvised Black Powder 133.Nitric Acid 134.Dust Bomb Instructions 135.Carbon-Tet Explosive 136.Making Picric Acid from Aspirin 137.Reclamation of RDX from C-4 138.Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels 139.Clothespin Switch 140.Flexible Plate Switch 141.Low Signature System [Silencers] 142.Delay Igniter From Cigarette 143.Nicotine 144.Dried Seed Timer 145.Nail Grenade 146.Bell Glossary 147.Phone Dial Locks -- Beat'em 148.Exchange Scanning 149.A Short History of Phreaking 150."Secrets of the Little Blue Box" 151.The History of British Phreaking 152."Bad as Shit" 153.Telenet 154.Fucking with the Operator 155.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 1, Issue 1 156.International Country Codes List 157.Infinity Transmitter Plans 158.LSD 159.Bananas 160.Yummy Marihuana Recipes 161.Peanuts 162.Chemical Fire Bottle 163.Igniter from Book Matches 164."Red or White Powder" Propellant 165.Pipe Hand Grenade 166.European Credit Card Fraud Potassium Bomb Your Legal Rights Juvenile Offenders' Rights Down The Road Missle Fun With Shotgun Shells Surveillance Equipment Drip Timer Stealing Miscellaneous Shaving cream bomb Ripping off change machines II Lockpicking the EASY way Anarchy 'N' Explosives Prelude Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 1 Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 2 Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 3 Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 4 Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 5 Explosives and Propellants Lockpicking III Chemical Equivalent List II Nitroglycerin II Cellulose Nitrate Starter Explosives Flash Powder Exploding Pens Revised Pipe Bombs * SAFETY * A MUST READ! Ammonium TriIodide Sulfuric Acid & Amm. Nitrate III Black Powder III Nitrocellulose RDX The Black Gate BBS ANFOS Picric Acid II Bottled Explosives Dry Ice Fuses / Ignitors / Delays Film Canister Bombs Book Bombs Phone Bombs Special Ammunition Rocketry Pipe Cannon II Smoke Bombs Firecrackers Suppliers II Lab-Raid Checklist Misc Anarchy Combo Locks II Misc Anarchy II Thermite IV 1. Counterfeiting Money by The Jolly Roger Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you. Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the process. Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time, these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one. Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill. The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc. As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond". If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck! 2. Credit Card Fraud by The Jolly Roger For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now: With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it. Step One: Getting the credit card information First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy. First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then, during business hours, call in a very convincing voice "Hello, this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information. Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you should be able to decipher the information given. Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies Card example: [American Express] XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 JOE SHMOE Explanation: MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00, even if the card holder is broke. [Mastercard] 5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY JOE SHMOE Explanation: XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new, and the second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists, so check these first. [Visa] 4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X) MM/YY MM/YY*VISA JOE SHMOE Explanation: Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows: MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although they are usually covered for large purchases. Step Three: Testing credit You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number, give the credit information, and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number, merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is OK, and will give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels". Step Four: The drop Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites: An empty house An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs. Rent A Spot U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the package arrives. People's houses Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people. Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before. Step Five: Making the transaction You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information, and a good drop site. The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone, especially if it is a 1800 number. Now, when you call, don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage investigation on the order. If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states, UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a couple of years. Good luck! 3. Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows. First off, you must obtain: A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.) A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals) Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores) Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge. Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0øC. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate. Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used. The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this article. You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by writing: Information Publishing Co. Box 10042 Odessa, Texas 79762 4. Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed? The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will not turn. That was their biggest mistake. The first number: Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now have the first number of the combination. The second number: Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove, pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of the combination. The third number: After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number, pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the process right. This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new mechanism that is foolproof (for now). 5. The Arts of Lockpicking I by The Jolly Roger Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene. Automobiles: Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So: American Locksmith Service P.O. Box 26 Culver City, CA 90230 ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling. Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So: Lock Technology Corporation 685 Main St. New Rochelle, NY 10801 LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling. The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by: Steck MFG Corporation 1319 W. Stewart St. Dayton, OH 45408 For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around. Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So: A MFG 1151 Wallace St. Massilon, OH 44646 Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool. If you are too lazy to pick auto locks: Veehof Supply Box 361 Storm Lake, IO 50588 VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set. Updated Lockpicking: For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows: Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, until the shear line is set and the lock opens. Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of an effort than standard picking. Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful, but when it does work, the results are very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger. Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly. There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by: Fed Corporation P.O. Box 569 Scottsdale, AR 85252 The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas, on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also open group two locks (including government, high security, and medicos), although this can take a short time longer. It will not open GM sidebar locks, although a device is about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy that will open most locks in seven seconds? $235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling. For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software. If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always fall back on the magic thermal lance... The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a standard welding igniter. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is available from: C.O.L. MFG 7748 W. Addison Chicago, IL 60634 6. The Arts of Lockpicking II by The Jolly Roger So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood, because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the "lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick. First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever). The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90ø). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of a lock: ______________________________ \K ||||||/E | | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin ^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall / L (This is a greatly simplified \ E drawing) ______________________________/ The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now, if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right? That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open. Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that, you will quickly improve with practice. 7. Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox. Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can be bought at K-Mart, and various hardware supply shops for around $7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many military applications in the WWII era. Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and readily available energy source is common household sugar, or sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source, but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose. Making the mixture: Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest powder possible. The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount of sugar. Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio. It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox. You have been warned! 8. High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox - Rev.2 by The Jolly Roger I. Introduction Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color of ours. The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To fabricate a beigebox, follow along. II. Construction and Use The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green, yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter: the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not necessary for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black) leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red alligator clip. To the end of the green wire attach a green alligator clip. The yellow and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight, and does not require the destruction of a phone. III. Beige Box Uses There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it, you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e. remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.) To open most Bell Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver (or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also). This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store. With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately 1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked, then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks. However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T" (Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if not labeled, usually on the right). Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip (Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal. Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal. Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone. Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use your own). Here are some practical applications: Eavesdropping Long distance, static free, free fone calls to phriends Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static) Phucking people over Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line Eavesdropping To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping, it is always best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number. Dialing Long Distance This section is self explanatory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before the NPA. Dialing Direct to Al iance Teleconferencing Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there. I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception and are more difficult to come by. Phucking People Over This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition, since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls. This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause of the problem. Bothering the Operator This is also self explanatory and can provide hours of entertainment. Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section, Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to? Blue Boxing See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice feature if you live in an ESS-equipped prefix, since the calls are, once again, not traced to your line... IV. POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicions within the Gestapo, and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recommend you: Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing, Use more than one output device Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real name on a public BBS concerning your accomplishments) In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output device, I recommend you place a piece of transparent tape over the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is opened in your absence, the tape will be displaced and you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded on your territory. Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content. 9. How to make a COý bomb by the Jolly Roger You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse. I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse, but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws shrapnel, and can make quit a mess! 10. Thermite II by Jolly Roger Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it. The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a short time: Get a DC converter like the one used on a train set. Cut the connector off, separate the wires, and strip them both. Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water conductive. Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you plugged the converter in...) and let them sit for five minutes. One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!). Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right? Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside overnight. It should be an orangebrown color (although I have seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!) Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure aluminum filings which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams. Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it... Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to ignite. However, magnesium ribbon (which is sort of hard to find.. call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite. Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood, the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. 11. Touch Explosives by the Jolly Roger This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe: Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!). Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully! Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh? They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds, football games, concerts, etc.) 12. Letter Bombs by The Jolly Roger You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust. Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space (such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient... Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope. You know, the type that is double layered. Separate the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is your bomb! Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain. Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human flesh!). 13. Paint Bombs by The Jolly Roger To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple, or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quickly place the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the door, and then run! Paint will fly all over the place! 14. Ways to send a car to Hell by The Jolly Roger There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive (for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops). Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the way through the pavement! Tape a COý bomb to the hood, axle, gas tank, wheel, muffler, etc. Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this one is good!), a ping pong ball, or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank. Put potatoes, rocks, bananas, or anything that will fit, into the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the tailpipe. Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it... Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo. Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like this: Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders on the seats!) 15. Do you hate school? by The Jolly Roger One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two. You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course, you will probably have to make it up in the summer). Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!). Use a smoke grenade in the hallway. Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards inside if they are (gag) IBM. Make friends with student assistants and have them change your grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report cards. Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry! Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal is a fascist. Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car. USE YOUR IMAGINATION! 16. Phone related vandalism by the Jolly Roger If you live where there are underground lines then you will be able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em! ) 17. Highway radar jamming by The Jolly Roger Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to 10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonator). An 8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 GHz. Or more often on the X band at 10«25 GHz. most microwave intruder alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts at 10«25 GHz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in Burlington, Massachusetts and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers' for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proof enclosure behind the PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and triggering their radar detectors! PS If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds of neat things! 18. Smoke Bombs by the Jolly Roger Here is the recipe for one hell of a smoke bomb! 4 parts sugar 6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter) Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well. Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke! 19. Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger Two liter bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate) Small amount of sugar Small amount of water Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this, though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city. 20. The easiest way to hot-wire cars by the Jolly Roger Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it's enclosed, forget it unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take off! 21. How to make Napalm by the Jolly Roger Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container. Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup. Put it on the end of something (don't touch it! ). The unused stuff lasts a long time! 22. How to make a fertilizer bomb by The Jolly Roger Ingredients: Newspaper Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO) Cotton Diesel fuel Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it. Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet so don't do it in an alley!! 23. Tennis Ball Bombs by The Jolly Roger Ingredients: Strike anywhere matches A tennis ball A nice sharp knife Duct tape Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast! 24. Diskette Bombs by The Jolly Roger You need: A disk Scissors White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!) Clear nail polish Carefully open up the diskette (3«" disks are best for this!) Remove the cotton covering from the inside. Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper, metal might spark the matchpowder!) After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk. Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture Let it dry Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart). When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). Let the fuckhead try and fix THAT!! 25. Unlisted Phone Numbers by The Jolly Roger There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service rep would call the customer service number for billing information in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so.. if the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER, no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED! Also, if you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might want to check into getting a criss-cross directory, which lists phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple hundred bucks, but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two numbers down! 26. Fuses by The Jolly Roger You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable. SLOW BURNING FUSE - 2 inches per minute Materials needed: Cotton string or 3 shoelaces Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate Granulated sugar Procedure: Wash the cotton string or shoelaces in HOT soapy water, then rinse with fresh water Mix the following together in a glass bowl: 1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate 1 part granulated sugar 2 parts hot water Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes! FAST BURNING FUSE - 40 inches per minute Materials needed: Soft cotton string Fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!) Shallow dish or pan Procedure: Moisten powder to form a paste. Twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together. Rub paste into string and allow to dry. Check the burn rate! ! 27. How to make Potassium Nitrate by The Jolly Roger Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other things. Here is how you make it: Materials needed: 3« gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material « cup of wood ashes Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume 2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the bottom of the bucket Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket Shallow, heat resistant container 2 gallons of water Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket 1 gallon of any type of alcohol A heat source Paper & tape Procedure: Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the metal is "puckered" outward from the bottom. Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom. Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers the entire cloth and has about the same thickness. Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes. Place the dirt or other material in the bucket. Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not blocked. Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom. Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the bottom. Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth! Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so. Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the sludge in the bottom. Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they form. When the liquid has boiled down to « its original volume let it sit. After « hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This is the potassium nitrate. Purification: Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water. Remove any crystals that appear. Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution to dryness. Spread out crystals and allow to dry. 28. Exploding Lightbulbs by The Jolly Roger Materials needed: Lightbulb (100w) Socket (duh...) ¬ cup soap chips Blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!) ¬ cup kerosene or gasoline Adhesive tape Lighter or small blowtorch Glue Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb: Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads! Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so that it touches the filament! Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or else YOU will be the victim! ) Get the hell out! Procedure for a Napalm Bulb: Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler. Melt soap chips, stirring slowly. Put somewhere and allow to cool. Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue. Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work! Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the fluid. Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently used by the victim and get the hell out! When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise! 29. Under water igniters by The Jolly Roger Materials needed: Pack of 10 silicon diodes. (Available at Radio Shack. You will know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass objects!) Pack of matches 1 candle Procedure: Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the top. Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that one wraps in an upward direction and then sticks out to the side. Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER! Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These work underwater Repeat to make as many as you want. How to use them: When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. 30. Home-brew blast cannon by The Jolly Roger Materials needed: 1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 « inches in diameter. 1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter. 1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!) 1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe. 5 feet of bellwire. 1 SPST rocker switch. 16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery. 15v relay (get this at Radio Shack). Electrical Tape. One free afternoon. Procedure: Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends. Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. They should screw together easily. Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it to the level on the lighter: /------------------------gas switch is here V /-----!lighter! ` (the 'exec' level prompt) you=> sy sy: short for sy(stat) and shows you the system status. You should see the format of login names. A systat usually comes up in this form: Job Line Program User Job: The job number (not important unless you want to log them off later) Line: What line they are on (used to talk to them...) These are both two or three digit numbers. Program: What program are they running under? If it says 'exec' they aren't doing anything at all... User: ahhhahhhh! This is the user name they are logged in under... Copy the format, and hack yourself outa working code... Login format is as such: dec=> ` you=> login username password Username is the username in the format you saw above in the systat. After you hit the space after your username, it will stop echoing characters back to your screen. This is the password you are typing in... Remember, people usually use their name, their dog's name, the name of a favorite character in a book, or something like this. A few clever people have it set to a key cluster (qwerty or asdfg). Passwords can be from 1 to 8 characters long, anything after that is ignored. You are finally in... It would be nice to have a little help, wouldn't it? Just type a ? Or the word help, and it will give you a whole list of topics... Some handy characters for you to know would be the control keys, wouldn't it? Backspace on a dec 20 is rub which is 255 on your ASCII chart. On the dec 10 it is control-H. To abort a long listing or a program, control-C works fine. Use Control-O to stop long output to the terminal. This is handy when playing a game, but you don't want to control-C out. Control-T for the time. Control-u will kill the whole line you are typing at the moment. You may accidentally run a program where the only way out is a control-X, so keep that in reserve. Control-s to stop listing, control-Q to continue on both systems. Is your terminal having trouble?? Like, it pauses for no reason, or it doesn't backspace right? This is because both systems support many terminals, and you haven't told it what yours is yet... You are using a VT05 so you need to tell it you are one. Dec=> ` you=> information terminal -orYou=> info (This shows you what your terminal is set up as.) Dec=>all sorts of shit, then thè you=> set ter vt05 (This sets your terminal type to VT05.) Now let's see what is in the account (here after abbreviated acct.) that you have hacked onto. Say: => dir (Short for directory.) It shows you what the user of the code has save to the disk. There should be a format like this: xxxxx.Oooxxxxx is the file name, from 1 to 20 characters long. Ooo is the file type, one of: exe, txt, dat, bas, cmd and a few others that are system dependant. Exe is a compiled program that can be run (just by typing its name at thè) Txt is a text file, which you can see by typing: =>type xxxxx.Txt Do not try to: =>type xxxxx.Exe (This is very bad for your terminal and will tell you absolutely nothing.) Dat is data they have saved. Bas is a basic program, you can have it typed out for you. Cmd is a command type file, a little too complicated to go into here. Try: =>take xxxxx.Cmd By the way, there are other users out there who may have files you can use. (Gee, why else am I here?) => dir (Dec 20) => dir [*,*] (Dec 10) * is a wildcard, and will allow you to access the files on other accounts if the user has it set for public access. If it isn't set for public access, then you won't see it. To run that program: dec=> ` you=> username program-name Username is the directory you saw the file listed under, and file name was what else but the file name? ** You are not alone ** remember, you said (at the very start) sy short for systat, and how we said this showed the other users on the system? Well, you can talk to them, or at least send a message to anyone you see listed in a systat. You can do this by: dec=> the user list (from your systat) you=> talkusername (Dec 20) send username (Dec 10) Talk allows you and them immediate transmission of whatever you/they type to be sent to the other. Send only allow you one message to be sent, and send, they will send back to you, with talk you can just keep going. By the way, you may be noticing with the talk command that what you type is still acted upon by the parser (control program). To avoid the constant error messages type either: you=> ;your message you=> rem your message the semi-colon tells the parser that what follows is just a comment. Rem is short for 'remark' and ignores you from then on until you type a control-Z or control-C, at which point it puts you back in the exec mode. To break the connection from a talk command type: you=> break priv's: If you happen to have privs, you can do all sorts of things. First of all, you have to activate those privs. You=> enable This gives you a $ prompt, and allows you to do this: whatever you can do to your own directory you can now do to any other directory. To create a new acct. Using your privs, just type: =>build username If username is old, you can edit it, if it is new, you can define it to be whatever you wish. Privacy means nothing to a user with privs. By the way, there are various levels of privs: operator, wheel, cia. Wheel is the most powerful, being that he can log in from anywhere and have his powers. Operators have their power because they are at a special terminal allowing them the privs. Cia is short for 'confidential information access', which allows you a low level amount of privs. Not to worry though, since you can read the system log file, which also has the passwords to all the other accounts. To de-activate your privs, type: you=> disable when you have played your greedy heart out, you can finally leave the system with the command: =>logout This logs the job you are using off the system (there may be varients of this such as kjob, or killjob.) 64. Harmless Bombs by The Jolly Roger To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on their victims but only terror. These are weapons that should be used from high places. The Flour Bomb Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking flour in the center. Then wrap it up and put on a rubber band to keep it together. When thrown it will fly well but when it hits, it covers the victim with the flower or causes a big puff of flour which will put the victim in terror since as far as they are concerned, some strange white powder is all over them. This is a cheap method of terror and for only the cost of a roll of paper towels and a bag of flour you and your friends can have loads of fun watching people flee in panic. Smoke Bomb Projectile All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs and a wrist rocket or any slingshot. Shoot the smoke bombs and watch the terror since they think it will blow up! Rotten Eggs (Good ones) Take some eggs and get a sharp needle and poke a small hole in the top of each one. Then let them sit in a warm place for about a week. Then you've got a bunch of rotten eggs that will only smell when they hit. Glow in the Dark Terror Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour the stuff on whatever you want to throw and when it gets on the victim, they think it's some deadly chemical or a radioactive substance so they run in total panic. This works especially well with flower bombs since a gummy, glowing substance gets all over the victim. Fizzling Panic Take a baggy of a water-baking soda solution and seal it. (Make sure there is no air in it since the solution will form a gas and you don't want it to pop on you.) Then put it in a bigger plastic bag and fill it with vinegar and seal it. When thrown, the two substances will mix and cause a violently bubbling substance to go all over the victim. 65. Breaking Into Houses by The Jolly Roger Okay You Need: Tear Gas or Mace A BB/Pellet Gun An Ice Pick Thick Gloves What You Do Is: Call the house, or ring doorbell, to find out if they're home. If they're not home then... Jump over the fence or walk through gate (whatever). If you see a dog give him the mace or tear gas. Put the gloves on! ! ! ! Shoot the BB gun slightly above the window locks. Push the ice-pick through the hole (made by the BB gun). Enter window. FIRST...Find the LIVING ROOM. (there're neat things there!). Goto the bedroom to get a pillow case. Put the goodies in the pillow case. Get out Notes: You should have certain targets worked out (like computers, Radios, Ect.) Also Steal from your own neighborhood. If you think they have an alarm.... 66. A Guide to Hypnotism by The Jolly Roger What hypnotism is? Hypnotism, contrary to common belief, is merely state when your mind and body are in a state of relaxation and your mind is open to positive, or cleverly worded negative, influences. It is not a trance where you: Are totally influenceable. Cannot lie. A sleep which you cannot wake up from without help. This may bring down your hope somewhat, but, hypnotism is a powerful for self help, and/or mischief. Your subconscious mind Before going in further, I'd like to state that hypnotism not only is great in the way that it relaxes you and gets you (in the long run) what you want, but also that it taps a force of incredible power, believe it or not, this power is your subconscious mind. The subconscious mind always knows what is going on with every part of your body, every moment of the day. It protects you from negative influences, and retains the power to slow your heartbeat down and stuff like that. The subconscious mind holds just about all the info you would like to know About yourself, or, in this case, the person you will be hypnotizing. There are many ways to talk to your subconscious and have it talk back to you. One way is the ouja board, no its not a spirit, merely the minds of those who are using it. Another, which I will discuss here, is the pendulum method. OK, here is how it goes. First, get a ring or a washer and tie it to a thread a little longer than half of your forearm. Now, take a sheet of paper and draw a big circle in it. In the big circle you must now draw a crosshair (a big +). Now, put the sheet of paper on a table. Next, hold the thread with the ring or washer on it and place it (holding the thread so that the ring is 1 inch above the paper swinging) in the middle of the crosshair. Now, swing the thread so the washer goes up and down, say to yourself the word "Yes" now, do it side to side and say the word "no". Do it counter clockwise and say "I don't know". And lastly, do it clockwise and say "I don't want to say." Now, with the thread back in the middle of the crosshair, ask yourself questions and wait for the pendulum to swing in the direction for the answer. (yes, no, I don't know or I don't want to say...). Soon, to your amazement, it will be answering questions like anything... Let the pendulum answer, don't try.. When you try you will never get an answer. Let the answer come to you. How to induce hypnotism Now that you know how to talk to your subconscious mind, I will now tell you how to guide someone into hypnosis. Note that I said guide, you can never, hypnotize someone, they must be willing. OK, the subject must be lying or sitting in a comfortable position, relaxed, and at a time when things aren't going to be interrupted. Tell them the following or something close to it, in a peaceful, monotonous tone (not a commanding tone of voice) Note: Light a candle and place it somewhere where it can be easily seen. "Take a deep breath through your nose and hold it in for a count of 8. Now, through your mouth, exhale completely and slowly. Continued breathing long, deep, breaths through your nose and exhaling through your mouth. Tense up all your muscles very tight, now, counting from ten to one, release them slowly, you will find them very relaxed. Now, look at the candle, as you look at it, with every breath and passing moment, you are feeling increasingly more and more peaceful and relaxed. The candles flame is peaceful and bright. As you look at it I will count from 100 down, as a count, your eyes will become more and more relaxed, getting more and more tired with each passing moment." Now, count down from 100, about every 10 numbers say "When I reach xx your eyes (or you will find your eyes) are becoming more and more tired." Tell them they may close their eyes whenever they feel like it. If the persons eyes are still open when you get to 50 then instead of saying "your eyes will.." Say "your eyes are...". When their eyes are shut say the following. As you lie (or sit) here with your eyes comfortably close you find yourself relaxing more and more with each moment and breath. The relaxation feels pleasant and blissful so, you happily give way to this wonderful feeling. Imagine yourself on a cloud, resting peacefully, with a slight breeze caressing your body. A tingling sensation begins to work its way, within and without your toes, it slowly moves up your feet, making them warm, heavy and relaxed. The cloud is soft and supports your body with its soft texture, the scene is peaceful and absorbing, the peacefulness absorbs you completely. The tingling gently and slowly moves up your legs, relaxing them. Making them warm and heavy. The relaxation feels very good, it feels so good to relax and let go. As the tingling continues its journey up into your solar plexus, you feel your inner stomach become very relaxed. Now, it moves slowly into your chest, making your breathing relaxed as well. The feeling begins to move up your arms to your shoulders, making your arms heavy and relaxed as well. You are aware of the total relaxation you are now experiencing, and you give way to it. It is good and peaceful, the tingling now moves into your face and head, relaxing your jaws, neck, and facial muscles, making your cares and worries float away. Away into the blue sky as you rest blissfully on the cloud. If they are not responsive or you think they (he or she) is going to sleep, then add in a "...always concentrating upon my voice, ignoring all other sounds. Even though other sounds exists, they aid you in your relaxation..." They should soon let out a sigh as if they were letting go, and their face should have a "woodiness" to it, becoming featureless... Now, say the following "... You now find yourself in a hallway, the hallway is peaceful and nice. As I count from 10 to 1 you will imagine yourself walking further and further down the hall. When I reach one you will find yourself where you want to be, in another, higher state of conscious and mind. (count from ten to one)..." Do this about three or four times. Then, to test if the subject is under hypnosis or not, say "... You feel a strange sensation in your (arm they write with) arm, the feeling begins at your fingers and slowly moves up your arm, as it moves through your arm your arm becomes lighter and lighter, it will soon be so light it will... becoming lighter and lighter which each breath and moment..." Their fingers should begin to twitch and then move up, the arm following, now my friend, you have him/her in hypnosis. The first time you do this, while he/she is under say good things, like: "Your going to feel great tomorrow" or "Every day in every way you will find yourself becoming better and better". Or some crap like that... The more they go under, the deeper in hypnosis they will get each time you do it. What to do when hypnotized When you have them under you must word things very carefully to get your way. You cannot simply say... Take off your clothes and fuck the pillow. No, that would not really do the trick. You must say something like.... "you find your self at home, in your room and you have to take a shower (vividly describe their room and what's happening), you begin to take off your clothes..." Now, it can't be that simple, you must know the persons house, room, and shower room. Then describe things vividly and tell them to act it out (they have to be deeply under to do this). I would just suggest that you experiment a while, and get to know how to do things. Waking up Waking up is very easy, just say "...as I count from 1 to 5 you will find yourself becoming more and more awake, more and more lively. When you wake up you will find yourself completely alive, awake, and refreshed. Mentally and physically, remembering the pleasant sensation that hypnosis brings... Waking up feeling like a new born baby, reborn with life and vigor, feeling excellent. Remembering that next time you enter hypnosis it will become an ever increasing deeper and deeper state than before. You feel energy course throughout your limbs. You begin to breathe deeply, stirring. Beginning to move more and more your eyes open, bringing you up to full conscious. You are up, up, up and awakening more and more. You are awake and feeling great. And that's it! You now know how to hypnotize yourself and someone else. You will learn more and more as you experiment. 67. The Remote Informer Issue #1 by Tracker and Noman Bates Introduction Welcome to the first issue of 'The Remote Informer'! This newsletter is reader supported. If the readers of this newsletter do not help support it, then it will end. We are putting this out to help out the ones that would like to read it. If you are one of those who thinks they know everything, then don't bother reading it. This newsletter is not anything like the future issues. The future issues will contain several sections, as long as reader input is obtained. Below is an outline overview of the sections in the future issues. I/O Board (Input/Output Board) The I/O Board is for questions you have, that we might be able to answer or at least refer you to someone or something. We will be honest if we cannot help you. We will not make up something, or to the effect, just to make it look like we answered you. There will be a section in the I/O Board for questions we cannot answer, and then the readers will have the opportunity to answer it. We will print anything that is reasonable in the newsletter, even complaints if you feel like you are better than everyone. NewsCenter This section will be for news around the underworld. It will talk of busts of people in the underworld and anything else that would be considered news. If you find articles in the paper, or something happens in your local area, type it up, and upload it to one of the boards listed at the end of the newsletter. Your handle will be placed in the article. If you do enter a news article, please state the date and from where you got it. Feature Section The Feature Section will be the largest of the sections as it will be on the topic that is featured in that issue. This will be largely reader input which will be sent in between issues. At the end of the issue at hand, it will tell the topic of the next issue, therefore, if you have something to contribute, then you will have ample time to prepare your article. Hardware/Software Review In this section, we will review the good and bad points of hardware and software related to the underworld. It will be an extensive review, rather than just a small paragraph. The Tops This section will be the area where the top underworld BBS's, hacking programs, modem scanners, etc. will be shown. This will be reader selected and will not be altered in anyway. The topics are listed below. Underworld BBS's (Hack, Phreak, Card, Anarchy, etc.) Hacking programs for Hayes compatables Hacking programs for 1030/Xm301 modems Modem scanners for Hayes compatables Modem scanners for 1030/Xm301 modems Other type illegal programs You may add topics to the list if enough will support it. Tid Bits This will contain tips and helpful information sent in by the users. If you have any information you wish to contribute, then put it in a text file and upload it to one of the BBS's listed at the end of the newsletter. Please, no long distance codes, mainframe passwords, etc. We may add other sections as time goes by. This newsletter will not be put out on a regular basis. It will be put out when we have enough articles and information to put in it. There may be up to 5 a month, but there will always be at least one a month. We would like you, the readers, to send us anything you feel would be of interest to others, like hacking hints, methods of hacking long distance companies, companies to card from, etc. We will maintain the newsletter as long as the readers support it. That is the end of the introduction, but take a look at this newsletter, as it does contain information that may be of value to you. Hacking Sprint: The Easy Way If you hack US Sprint, 950-0777 (by the way it is no longer GTE Sprint), and you are frustrated at hacking several hours only to find one or two codes, then follow these tips, and it will increase your results tremendously. First, one thing that Mr. Mojo proved is that Sprint will not store more than one code in every hundred numbers. (ex: 98765400 to 98765499 may contain only one code). There may NOT be a code in that hundred, but there will never be more than one. Sprint's 9 digit codes are stored from 500000000 through 999999999. In the beginning of Sprint's 950 port, they only had 8 digit codes. Then they started converting to 9 digit codes, storing all 8 digit codes between 10000000 and 49999999 and all 9 digit codes between 500000000 and 999999999. Sprint has since canceled most 8 digit codes, although there are a few left that have been denoted as test codes. Occasionally, I hear of phreaks saying they have 8 digit codes, but when verifying them, the codes were invalid. Now, where do you start? You have already narrowed the low and high numbers in half, therefore already increasing your chances of good results by 50 percent. The next step is to find a good prefix to hack. By the way, a prefix, in hacking terms, is the first digits in a code that can be any length except the same number of digits the code is. (ex: 123456789 is a code. That means 1, 12, 123, 1234, 12345, 123456, 1234567, and 12345678 are prefixes) The way you find a good prefix to hack is to manually enter a code prefix. If when you enter the code prefix and a valid destination number and you do not hear the ringing of the recording telling you that the code is invalid until near the end of the number, then you know the prefix is valid. Here is a chart to follow when doing this: Code - Destination Range good codes exist ------------------------------------------------123456789 - 6192R 123400000 - 123499999 123456789 - 619267R 123450000 - 123459999 123456789 - 61926702R 123456000 - 123456999 123456789 - 6192670293R 123456700 - 123456799 ------------------------------------------------( R - Denotes when ring for recording starts) To prove this true, I ran a test using OmniHack 1.3p, written by Jolly Joe. In this test I found a prefix where the last 3 digits were all I had to hack. I tested each hundred of the 6 digit prefix finding that all but 4 had the ring start after the fourth digit was dialed in the destination number. The other four did not ring until I had finished the entire code. I set OmniHack to hack the prefix + 00 until prefix + 99. (ex: xxxxxxy00 to xxxxxxy99: where y is one of the four numbers that the ring did not start until the dialing was completed.) Using this method, I found four codes in a total of 241 attempts using ascending hacking (AKA: Sequential). Below you will see a record of my hack: Range of hackCodes foundTriesxxxxxx300 xxxxxx399xxxxxx35050xxxxxx500 xxxxxx599xxxxxx56868xxxxxx600 xxxxxx699xxxxxx64646xxxxxx800 xxxxxx899xxxxxx87777Totals4 codes241 As you see, these methods work. Follow these guidelines and tips and you should have an increase in production of codes in the future hacking Sprint. Also, if you have any hints/tips you think others could benefit from, then type them up and upload them to one of the boards at the end of the newsletter. Rumors: Why Spread Them? Do you ever get tired of hearing rumors? You know, someone gets an urge to impress others, so they create a rumor that some long distance company is now using tracing equipment. Why start rumors? It only scares others out of phreaking, and then makes you, the person who started the rumor, look like Mr. Big. This article is short, but it should make you aware of the rumors that people spread for personal gain. The best thing to do is to denote them as a rumor starter and then leave it at that. You should not rag on them constantly, since if the other users cannot determine if it is fact or rumor, then they should suffer the consequences. The New Sprint FON Calling Cards US Sprint has opened up a new long distance network called the Fiber Optic Network (FON), in which subscribers are given calling cards. These calling cards are 14 digits, and though, seem randomly generated, they are actually encrypted. The rumors floating around about people getting caught using the Sprint FON calling cards are fact, not rumors. The reason people are getting caught is that they confuse the FON calling cards with the local 950 port authorization codes. If you will remember, you never use AT&T calling cards from you home phone. It has ANI capability, which is not tracing, but rather the originating phone number is placed on the bill as soon as the call is completed. They know your phone number when you call the 800 access port, but they do not record it until your call is completed. Also, through several of my hacks, I came up with some interesting information surrounding the new Sprint network. They are listed below. 800-877-0000 - This number is for information on US Sprint's 800 calling card service. I have not played around with it, but I believe it is for trouble or help with the FON calling cards. I am not sure if it is for subscribing to the FON network. 800-877-0002 - You hear a short tone, then nothing. 800-877-0003 - US Sprint Alpha Test Channel #1 800-877-(0004-0999) - When you call these numbers, you get a recording saying: "Welcome to US Sprint's 1 plus service." When the recording stops, if you hit the pound key (#) you will get the calling card dial tone. Other related Sprint numbers 800-521-4949 - This is the number that you subscribe to US Sprint with. You may also subscribe to the FON network on this number. It will take 4 to 5 weeks for your calling card to arrive. 10777 - This is US Sprint's equal access number. When you dial this number, you then dial the number you are calling, and it will be billed through US Sprint, and you will receive their long distance line for that call. Note that you will be billed for calls made through equal access. Do not mistake it to be a method of phreaking, unless used from a remote location. If you are in US Sprint's 1+ service then call 1+700-555-1414, which will tell you which long distance company you are using. When you hear: "Thank you for choosing US Sprint's 1 plus service," hit the pound key (#), and then you will get the US Sprint dial tone. This however is just the same as if you are calling from your home phone if you dial direct, so you would be billed for calls made through that, but there are ways to use this to your advantage as in using equal access through a PBX. Automatic Number Identification (ANI) The true definition for Automatic Number Identification has not been widely known to many. Automatic Number Identification, (AKA: ANI), is the process of the destination number knowing the originating number, which is where you are calling from. The method of achieving this is to send the phone number that you are calling from in coded form ahead of the destination number. Below is an example of this. ANI Method Dial: 267-0293 Sent: ********2670293 * - Denotes the originating number which is coded and sent before the number As you noticed there are 8 digits in the coded number. This is because, at least I believe, it is stored in a binary-like form. Automatic Number Identification means a limited future in phreaking. ANI does not threaten phreaking very much yet, but it will in the near future. A new switching system will soon be installed in most cities that are covered by ESS, Electronic Switching System, now. The system will have ANI capabilities which will be supplied to the owners of phone lines as an added extra. The owner's phone will have an LED read-out that will show the phone number of the people that call you. You will be able to block some numbers, so that people cannot call you. This system is in the testing stages currently, but will soon be installed across most of the country. As you see, this will end a large part of phreaking, until we, the phreakers, can come up with an alternative. As I have been told by several, usually reliable, people, this system is called ISS, which I am not sure of the meaning of this, and is being tested currently in Rhode Island. 800 inwatts lines set up by AT&T support ANI. The equipment to decode an ANI coded origination number does not costs as much as you would expect. 950 ports do not offer ANI capability, no matter what you have been told. The 950 ports will only give the city in which they are based, this usually being the largest in the state, sometimes the capitol. One last thing that I should tell you is that ANI is not related to tracing. Tracing can be done on any number whether local, 950, etc. One way around this, especially when dialing Alliance TeleConferencing, is to dial through several extenders or ports. ANI will only cover the number that is calling it, and if you call through a number that does not support ANI, then your number will never be known. 68. Jackpotting ATM Machines by The Jolly Roger JACKPOTTING was done rather successfully a while back in (you guessed it) New York. What the culprits did was sever (actually cross over) the line between the ATM and the host. Insert a microcomputer between the ATM and the host. Insert a fraudulent card into the ATM. (By card I mean cash card, not hardware.) What the ATM did was: send a signal to the host, saying "Hey! Can I give this guy money, or is he broke, or is his card invalid?" What the microcomputer did was: intercept the signal from the host, discard it, send "there's no one using the ATM" signal. What the host did was: get the "no one using" signal, send back "okay, then for God's sake don't spit out any money!" signal to ATM. What the microcomputer did was intercept the signal (again), throw it away (again), send "Wow! That guy is like TOO rich! Give him as much money as he wants. In fact, he's so loaded, give him ALL the cash we have! He is really a valued customer." signal. What the ATM did: what else? Obediently dispense cash till the cows came home (or very nearly so). What the crooks got was well in excess of $120,000 (for one weekend's work), and several years when they were caught. This story was used at a CRYPTOGRAPHY conference I attended a while ago to demonstrate the need for better information security. The lines between ATM's & their hosts are usually 'weak' in the sense that the information transmitted on them is generally not encrypted in any way. One of the ways that JACKPOTTING can be defeated is to encrypt the information passing between the ATM and the host. As long as the key cannot be determined from the ciphertext, the transmission (and hence the transaction) is secure. A more believable, technically accurate story might concern a person who uses a computer between the ATM and the host to determine the key before actually fooling the host. As everyone knows, people find cryptanalysis a very exciting and engrossing subject..don't they? (HeeHee) _____ ______ | |--|____| The B of A ATM's are connected through dedicated lines to a host computer as the Bishop said. However, for maintenance purposes, there is at least one separate dial-up line also going to that same host computer. This guy basically BS'ed his way over the phone till he found someone stupid enough to give him the number. After finding that, he had has Apple hack at the code. Simple. Next, he had a friend go to an ATM with any B of A ATM card. He stayed at home with the Apple connected to the host. When his friend inserted the card, the host displayed it. The guy with the Apple modified the status & number of the card directly in the host's memory. He turned the card into a security card, used for testing purposes. At that point, the ATM did whatever it's operator told it to do. The next day, he went into the bank with the $2000 he received, talked to the manager and told him every detail of what he'd done. The manager gave him his business card and told him that he had a job waiting for him when he got out of school. Now, B of A has been warned, they might have changed the system. On the other hand, it'd be awful expensive to do that over the whole country when only a handful of people have the resources and even less have the intelligence to duplicate the feat. Who knows? 69. Jug Bomb by The Jolly Roger Take a glass jug, and put 3 to 4 drops of gasoline into it. Then put the cap on, and swish the gas around so the inner surface of the jug is coated. Then add a few drops of potassium permanganate solution into it and cap it. To blow it up, either throw it at something, or roll it at something. 70. Fun at K-Mart by The Jolly Roger Well, first off, one must realize the importance of K-Marts in society today. First off, KMarts provide things cheaper to those who can't afford to shop at higher quality stores. Although, all I ever see in there is minorities and Senior Citizens, and the poor people in our city. Personally, I wouldn't be caught dead in there. But, once, I did. You see, once, after The Moon Roach and Havoc Chaos (Dear friends of mine) and I were exploring such fun things as rooftops, we came along a K-Mart. Amused, and cold for that matter, we wandered in. The Tension mounts. As we walked up to the entrance, we were nearly attacked by Youth Groups selling cheap cookies, and wheelchair sticken people selling American Flags. After laughing at these people, we entered. This is where the real fun begins... First, we wandered around the store, and turned on all the blue lights we could find. That really distracts and confuses the attendents...Fun to do... The first neat thing, is to go to the section of the store where they sell computers. Darkness engulfs the earth the day they find Apple Computers being sold there. Instead, lesser computers like the laughable C-64 can be found there...Turn it on, and make sure nobody's looking...Then, once in Basic, type... ]10 PRINT "Fuck the world! Anarchy Rules!" (or something to that effect.) ]20 GOTO 10 and walk away. Also, set the sample radios in the store to a satanic rock station, and turn the radio off. Then, set the alarm for two minutes ahead of the time displayed there. Turn the volume up all the way, and walk away. After about two minutes, you will see the clerk feebly attempt to turn the radio down or off. It's really neat to set ten or more radios to different stations, and walk away. One of my favorite things to do, is to get onto the intercom system of the store. Easier typed then done. First, check out the garden department. You say there's no attendent there? Good. Sneak carefully over to the phone behind the cheap counter there, and pick it up. Dial the number corresponding to the item that says 'PAGE'... And talk. You will note that your voice will echo all over the bowels of K-Mart. I would suggest announcing something on the lines of: "Anarchy rules! " 71. Mace Substitute by The Jolly Roger 3 parts Alcohol « part Iodine « part Salt -or3 parts Alcohol 1 part Iodized Salt (Mortons) It's not actual mace, but it does a damn good job on the eyes... 72. How to grow Marijuana by The Jolly Roger MARIJUANA Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous section of the plant was (has been replaced by synthetics) used to make rope. The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant is used by just about everyone to get HIGH. Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce this "high," but they can also be eaten. The active ingredient in marijuana resin is THC (Tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1%-4% THC (4% must be considered GOOD dope). Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in Mexico, Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc. The marijuana sold in the United States comes primarily from, yes, the United States. It is estimated that at least 50% of the grass on the streets in America is homegrown. The next largest bunch comes across the borders from Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from Panama, occasionally South America, and occasionally, Africa. Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is scraped from the flowering tops of the plant and lumped together. Ganja is the ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the name given to any sort of marijuana in Jamaica.) Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light, air or heat. It should always be stored in cool places. Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection of the laws of supply and demand (and you thought that high school economics would never be useful). A series of large border busts, a short growing season, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of marijuana up. Demand still seems to be on the increase in the US, so prices seldom fall below last year's level. Each year a small seasonal drought occurs, as last year's supply runs low, and next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rise about 20%-75% during this time and then fall back to "normal." Unquestionably, a large shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokers to turn to harder drugs instead. For this reason, no grass control program can ever be beneficial or "successful." GROW IT! There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's: Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some "authorities" on the subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly vivacious one at that, and it will grow almost in spite of you. OUTDOORS Contrary to popular belief, grass grows well in many place on the North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does not raise above 75ø. The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the last frost of the year. Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored method over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much attention when in its natural habitat. Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encountered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop. There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box (see the indoor section) and then transplant. The other theory is that you should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will come up with this method, but there is no shock of transplant to kill some of the seedlings halfway through. The soil should be prepared for the little devils by turning it over a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per square yard of soil and a little bit (not too much,