Textiles and Fabrics PDF

Textiles and Fabrics Dr. Nisanka Kusumsiri Singer Fashion Academy Stages of fabric/textile production Fibre Yarn Fabric Garments Stages of textile manufacturing process Textile Fibre Basic element of fabrics and other textile structures. Fibres are twisted tog...

Textiles and Fabrics Dr. Nisanka Kusumsiri Singer Fashion Academy Stages of fabric/textile production Fibre Yarn Fabric Garments Stages of textile manufacturing process Textile Fibre Basic element of fabrics and other textile structures. Fibres are twisted together to make yarns. Cotton fibre production - https://youtu.be/ystM8evK6HE Main requirements of textile fibres Fineness Flexibility Sufficient length Sufficient strength Elasticity Cohesiveness Uniformity Durability Lustre Dye ability Filament fibres Continuous, long fibres Examples – natural – silk synthetic – nylon, polyester Staple fibres Limited, small-length fibres Examples - natural – Cotton, Wool, Jute, Flax - Man made – Viscose, Rayon, Polyester Fibre classification Natural > Plant > Seed Cotton Kapok Coir Natural > Plant > Bast Flax Natural > Plant > Bast Lotus https://youtu.be/S9F-u4T7leQ Bamboo Natural > Plant > Leaf Sisal Pineapple Pineapple fibre fabric  Pineapple leather https://www.ananas-anam.com/about-us/ Natural > Plant > Leaf Abaca Natural > Plant > Leaf Banana https://youtu.be/RhK1ya9Znzk Natural > Animal > Hair Cashmere goat Sheep Angora goat (Cashmere) (Mohair) Natural > Animal > Hair Angora rabbit Alpaca Muskox (qiviut) Natural > Animal > Filament Mulberry silk Man-made > Re-generated Viscose Casein Fibre Soya bean fibre (Milk Fibre) (SPF) Man-made > Synthethic Polyester Nylon Acrilic Spandex Cotton Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows on the cotton plants. It grows in a boll around the seeds of the plant. The fiber of cotton is almost pure cellulose. Cotton was used in the Old World from at least 5000BC. Properties of Cotton Fibre Property characteristics end use Soft and cool Breathable and absorbent. Cotton fibers can hold water 24–27 times their own weight. Slow to dry. Moderate tenacity Resists static electricity build-up. Wrinkles easily. Poor crease recovery. Good heat conductor. Good abrasion resistance – durable Can withstand heat, detergents, and bleach.. Flax Obtain from the bask of the Flax plant. Used to produce Linen fabrics. Linen textiles are one of the oldest textiles in the world. Good tenacity. Linen Fiber is stronger than Cotton Stiff handle (gives crispy hand feel) and does not cling to the body. High air permeability = highly breathable High absorbency and dries quickly  Good heat conductivity – Cool to wear. Heat conductivity of linen is five times higher than wool and eighteen than silk No Static & Pilling problems Wool Wool is a type of fiber that is obtained from sheep and some other animals. Easy to spin (individual fibers attach to each other and stay together) Length of wool can range from 1.5 to 15 inches. Low tenacity. Crimp formation.  Can retain warmth Absorbs water. Highest absorbing fibre. Poor lustre. Crease recovery and elastic properties. Silk Silk is a natural protein fiber produced by mulberry silkworm. Length varies from 150 to 250 meters. Silk fiber has a triangular prism-like structure which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles at to produce different colors and subdued lustre. Silk Soft and smooth Absorbs colour well Very flexible Quickly retake its original shape without a lot of wrinkling Moderate tensile strength High elasticity Good crease recovery. Good absorbency. High insulation properties – Keeps body warm Excellent drapability. Viscose Regenerated fibre. Wood pulp is used together with other chemical solutions to make viscose. Very cheap. Moderate tenacity Make wrinkles. High absorbent. High heat resistance Polyester Man-made synthetic fibre. Strong fibre. Least absorbent. Good elastic recovery. (Elastic recovery – 100%) Develop static charges. Resistance to most acids Good resistance to most alkalis Good resistance to sunlight Nylon Nylon is the most used synthetic fabric. It is the world’s first fully synthetic fiber. Produced from chemicals found in oil, natural gas, coal or other sources. Nylon properties Very strong and resilient Very durable and lasts a long time Not damaged by most chemicals/alcohols/ perspiration or oils Abrasion resistant and does not tear easily Soft, lustrous and smooth in surface Lightweight Takes color dyes very well and the color does not fade easily Easy to maintain – dirt does not cling to the surface Dries fast Nylon properties Does not shrink or stretch through washing. Does not absorb moisture as much as other synthetic fibres. Low permeability, retains warmth. Good elasticity – it can bend and bounce back with ease. Resistant to mildew, molds, insects, and fungi. Spandex, lycra, elastine Man-made synthetic fibre. Good Tenacity Good elasticity. (Elastic recovery -100%) It can stretch up to 400% of its original length and spring back in the same condition. Good crease recovery. Less absorbent. Develop static charges. Poor heat conductivity. Good resistance to alkalis  Spandex –-→ polyester, spandex fibre