Study Guide: Luxus Management PDF

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luxury management anthropology of luxury luxury history luxury

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This study guide explores the concept of luxury, examining its historical, sociological, and economic dimensions. It analyzes the evolution of luxury across different periods, from ancient civilizations to modern times. Key figures and concepts are discussed, and insights from anthropological perspectives are highlighted.

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**[Study guide Luxus Mangament]** **Chapter 1: The Concept of Luxury: Past, Present, and Future** **1. Introduction and Objectives (not really to be studied)** The chapter opens with an analysis of how the term \"luxury\" has evolved over time. With the luxury market expanding in recent decades,...

**[Study guide Luxus Mangament]** **Chapter 1: The Concept of Luxury: Past, Present, and Future** **1. Introduction and Objectives (not really to be studied)** The chapter opens with an analysis of how the term \"luxury\" has evolved over time. With the luxury market expanding in recent decades, luxury now represents a broader concept than ever before, resulting in a variety of perceptions associated with it​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). The chapter aims to clarify the concept of luxury by examining its historical, sociological, and economic dimensions. Through this lens, the reader gains tools to better understand luxury's essence and apply it to managerial practices. **Learning Objectives** include: - Understanding the historical origins and evolution of luxury. - Examining how luxury\'s meaning has changed and impacted societies. - Recognizing the anthropological and sociological aspects of luxury that luxury managers should consider when forming strategies​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). **2. Luxury and Mankind: An Anthropological Perspective** - This section explores the concept of luxury as inherently tied to culture and society. The text highlights that luxury cannot be understood in isolation from its social context. - **Anthropological Insights**: Key figures like Thorstein Veblen, Christopher J. Berry, and Gilles Lipovetsky have contributed to understanding luxury's social and economic roles. Veblen's idea of \"conspicuous consumption\" exemplifies how luxury consumption has historically symbolized social differentiation​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). - **Key Takeaway**: The study of luxury begins with understanding its role across societies, emphasizing that luxury reflects not only wealth but also cultural values​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). **3. A Brief History of Luxury** - The chapter divides the history of luxury into five major eras, each demonstrating shifts in luxury's meaning and its societal implications. - **Early Civilizations**: Luxury began as a symbol of power, often associated with communal displays of wealth rather than individual accumulation. Examples include the ancient Egyptians, where luxury signified technological prowess, such as pyramid construction - **Balance between quantity and quality caracterizes the evolytion of lux** - **Greece and Rome**: Luxury was often viewed negatively, seen as a potential \"enemy of man\" that could lead to moral decay and weaken society. Philosophers like Plato criticized luxury as a corrupting force, contributing to political instability - **Essential aspect between need and desire (berry)** - **Plato; desire; natural and unnatural -\> luxury is a generator of desires and makes man to fall into uncessesary desires , potential threat and conflict with societty and governement** - **Threat to the natural life of man (aristote) =/ hardiness and endurance** - Qualitative aspects mor erelevant, dangeroys consequences - **Middle Ages and Renaissance**: Luxury shifted as aristocratic and emerging bourgeois classes began associating luxury with culture and refinement. This era marked the rise of art as a luxury and the patronage of famous artists by elite families, leading to the development of \"artists\" distinct from \"artisans" - **18th and 19th Centuries**: The concept of luxury became more economically focused. Enlightenment thinkers debated luxury\'s moral and social implications. While some criticized luxury as fostering inequality, others, like Bernard Mandeville, saw luxury as driving economic progress by spurring consumption and production - The Enlightenment redefined luxury from purely excess and vanity to include positive aspects like commerce, taste, and comfort. - Scholars Maxine Berg and Elizabeth Eger note a contrast between: - **Ancient Luxury:** Status-driven, excessive displays of wealth and power. - **Modern Luxury:** Linked to economic expansion, social benefit, and refinement. - **Traditional (Negative) View:** - Figures like Archbishop Fénelon, Francis Hutcheson, and George Berkeley saw luxury as corruptive and a threat to virtue. - Fénelon criticized luxury as dangerous for society, even more than political despotism. - Advocates of this view supported sumptuary laws to curb luxury consumption. - **Modern (Positive) View:** - Thinkers like Bernard Mandeville, Jean François Melon, Montesquieu, and Voltaire argued luxury benefited society by fostering economic growth, arts, and sciences. - **Bernard Mandeville:** In *The Fable of the Bees*, argued that self-interest and luxury consumption lead to economic benefits. - **Jean François Melon:** Defined luxury as a natural stage in economic evolution, distinguishing between basic needs and superfluous goods. - **Luxury as Economic Driver:** - Luxury consumption began to be seen as supporting commerce, creating jobs, and boosting the economy. - **British Example:** - Demand for imported Asian luxury goods (e.g., silk, porcelain) spurred innovation in British production techniques. - This period marked the beginning of distinct "British consumer goods" to meet the luxury demand locally. - **Luxury as Artistic Refinement:** - David Hume's essay *Of Luxury*, later retitled *Of Refinement in the Arts*, argued that luxury enhances social refinement and civility. - Hume and Voltaire saw the arts and luxury as positive, promoting politeness and societal development. - **Debate on Corruption:** - Rousseau countered that luxury and the arts foster vanity and social decay, arguing they serve self-indulgence over societal good. - **Luxury as a Market Concept:** - This period introduced the notion of luxury clients beyond the aristocracy, forming an early luxury market. - Luxury goods, once exclusive to elites, became accessible to a broader, wealthier class, setting the foundation for luxury as a consumer category. - **Shifts in Societal Views:** - Luxury, tied with art and cultural refinement, began to symbolize progress and civility rather than moral decay. - **Legacy:** - The Enlightenment's luxury debate created a nuanced view of luxury as both an economic asset and a refined cultural force. - This period is seen as a turning point, laying the groundwork for modern luxury markets and consumer behaviors. - **Contemporary Era**: Luxury has evolved into a distinct market category driven by individual pleasure and personal expression. The luxury market\'s expansion since the 20th century is closely tied to social changes, including post-World War economic growth and the later rise of digital luxury marketing - One factor is the emotional satisfaction that luxury products can provide. And - the second factor is the expressive attributes that luxury consumption offers its buyers. **4. Lessons for Luxury Managers** - **Constant Change**: Luxury is not a static concept; it adapts with societal shifts. Luxury managers must recognize this dynamic to avoid rigid, outdated definitions that limit growth and adaptability - **Luxury as Relativity**: The concept of luxury is often reflective of a society's current values and structures. For example, items that may symbolize luxury in one era may become accessible in another. Managers need to be sensitive to these shifts to maintain relevance - **Balancing Needs and Desires -\> quantity versus quality**: Luxury often fulfills both basic needs and aspirational desires, which differ by social class and cultural norms. Managers must understand this to position luxury products that resonate with different market segments - **Luxury and Social Perceptions**: Historically, luxury has often been seen as superficial or corrupt. Overcoming this stereotype is vital for luxury managers who aim to portray luxury as a socially constructive force, emphasizing craftsmanship, culture, and innovation - **Link with Art and Refinement**: The historical relationship between luxury and art underscores the role of aesthetics, creativity, and refinement. Luxury managers benefit from aligning products with artistry and refinement, drawing on luxury's cultural and artistic heritage Art helps them to better undertans the dilemma of building something valubale in their terms **5. What managers need to know** Ein Bild, das Text, Screenshot, Schrift, Zahl enthält. Automatisch generierte Beschreibung **6. Breaking Stereotypes in Luxury Analysis -\> see table** - **Luxury as Superficiality**: Despite common stereotypes, luxury is not synonymous with superficiality. The chapter argues that luxury can reflect deeper cultural values, artistic expression, and high craftsmanship standards. - **Luxury as Unfairness**: While luxury often signals social stratification, it can also support positive aspects such as economic growth, technological advancements, and cultural development. Luxury managers should address societal critiques by emphasizing sustainable practices and contributing positively to society​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). - **Luxury and Technology**: Although luxury is sometimes seen as opposing technology, this perspective is outdated. Technological advancements have increasingly become part of luxury, from digital transformations in branding to innovations in product design​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). **6. Summary and Self-Study Questions** - **Summary**: The chapter underscores the importance of understanding luxury's dynamic and multi-faceted nature. By exploring its historical, cultural, and economic contexts, managers gain insights into navigating modern luxury markets. - **Self-Study Questions**: 1. How has luxury changed in various historical eras, and why? 2. Why are exclusivity, status, and quality insufficient definitions for luxury? 3. What negative perceptions does luxury face, and how can these be addressed? 4. How does the concept of "refinement" link luxury to the arts? 5. Identify a luxury stereotype and analyze its potential limitations for luxury management​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). **Chapter 2: The Need for a Managerial Approach - Luxury and Strategy** **Chapter Overview and Core Objectives (not need to be studied)** Chapter 2 argues for a unique managerial framework tailored to luxury firms due to the distinct characteristics that set luxury apart from traditional business models. Luxury management must account for complexities such as exclusivity, creativity, heritage, and emotional appeal, which are not adequately addressed by mainstream strategies in marketing or management. **Key Learning Objectives**: - Understand the unique challenges of managing luxury brands. - Recognize why consumer-focused approaches may not align with luxury's essence. - Identify specific tensions within luxury management (e.g., growth vs. exclusivity). - Explore the limitations of conventional competitive frameworks in the luxury sector. - Comprehend why luxury requires its own strategy distinct from other sectors. **Luxury and Its Managerial Challenges** The luxury sector faces complex managerial challenges that differ significantly from those in mass-market industries. The chapter identifies four main challenges that underscore why a tailored strategy is critical: 4 main areas of coflict: 1. **The Creativity Challenge**: The tension between management and creators. - **Definition**: The tension between management\'s strategic goals and the artistic vision of creative leaders (designers, artisans, and creative directors) within luxury brands. - **Unterstand the relationship between managerial and creative components** - **Importance**: Creativity is central to a luxury brand\'s identity, which often hinges on unique, original designs and craftsmanship. However, this can conflict with management's need for control and structure, creating a delicate balance. - **Example**: Many luxury houses thrive on the creative genius of individuals, such as Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel or Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton. These figures play pivotal roles in establishing brand identity, but managing them involves accommodating their creative freedom within the brand's strategic vision. 2. **The Growth Challenge**: The tension between mass and exclusivity. - **Definition**: Balancing expansion goals with the need to maintain exclusivity and scarcity, core elements that make luxury desirable. - **Significance**: For luxury brands, rapid expansion or broadening accessibility risks diluting the brand's exclusivity, a key driver of its perceived value. - **Example**: Chanel restricts distribution to select boutiques and refuses to sell online to preserve exclusivity. This limited availability is essential to maintaining the brand's high-end appeal. 3. **The Change Challenge (Time Dilemma)**: - **Definition**: The challenge of maintaining timelessness while adapting to modern market demands and consumer trends. - **Relevance**: Luxury brands build legacies around long-standing values, but they must also remain relevant by adapting selectively to cultural and technological shifts. - **Example**: Patek Philippe emphasizes tradition but incorporates technology in watchmaking, maintaining timeless designs while innovating within the brand's boundaries. 4. **The Control Challenge**: The issues to sustain value on creativity-driven firms. - **Definition**: Managing brand perception and consumer experience strictly to maintain value, given that luxury depends on emotional and aspirational appeal rather than functional utility. -\> control is needed since luxury value creation is fundamentally constructed over emotional attributes. - **Why It Matters**: In luxury, a highly controlled brand narrative ensures consistency in exclusivity and customer experience, which prevents brand dilution and strengthens emotional connections. - **Example**: Hermès limits its product releases, and its scarcity strategy extends even to client interactions in boutiques, creating a controlled, highly curated brand experience that aligns with luxury ideals ![Ein Bild, das Text, Karte Menü, Screenshot, Dokument enthält. Automatisch generierte Beschreibung](media/image2.png) **Luxury from the Consumer\'s Perspective and Limitations of Traditional Marketing** This section evaluates traditional marketing\'s limitations, especially its focus on consumer-driven value. Luxury brands often require an alternative approach, focusing on brand-led values rather than consumer preferences. - Ability to create and the client to perceive it Key points include: 1. **The Classic Paradigm in Traditional Marketing**: - **Focus**: Traditional marketing aims to fulfill consumer needs and drive loyalty through responsive, customer-centric strategies. This view holds that brand value arises from consumer perceptions and interactions. 1. **Understand what consumers want + statisfactiobn** 2. **Defeat our rivals** - **Limitation in Luxury**: This consumer-driven focus is at odds with luxury, where exclusivity and brand identity are often deliberately preserved regardless of immediate consumer demands. Unlike mass-market brands, luxury firms aim to inspire admiration and aspiration rather than adapt to every consumer whim. Ein Bild, das Text, Screenshot, Schrift, Kreis enthält. Automatisch generierte Beschreibung 2. **Limitations of a Consumer-Centric Value Approach**: - **Insight**: In traditional industries, consumer feedback heavily influences product development. In luxury, however, responding too quickly to consumer desires can erode the brand's aspirational value and dilute exclusivity. - **Conflict with the firsm ability to create**; lux focused on create rather than satisfy - **Example**: Luxury firms, such as Bottega Veneta, maintain brand value by focusing on timeless craftsmanship rather than trend-following. This strengthens their allure and avoids over-commercialization. 3. **Luxury is Not a Zero-Sum Game**: - **Explanation**: Luxury competition does not revolve around gaining market share at another firm's expense but rather in elevating brand uniqueness and extraordinariness. Each brand's distinctiveness contributes to its value without necessarily reducing its competitors' market position. - **If the client decides to by from one, one wins and the other one losses, agressive face toi face competition** -\> what are the others doing? - **Comparison to Traditional Markets**: In mass markets, firms seek to maximize their share of a finite consumer base. In luxury, however, consumers value a brand's narrative and heritage over competitive positioning, which creates unique market dynamics. 4. **The Luxury Paradigm**: - **Concept**: In luxury, the brand and its inherent values hold precedence over customer-driven demands. This approach emphasizes a brand\'s heritage, creative vision, and exclusivity rather than immediate market responsiveness. - **Application**: Luxury brands craft an experience that reflects the brand\'s identity and values, which attracts consumers drawn to the brand\'s distinct story and ethos, even if it means not catering to broader consumer demands. **Limitations of Traditional Competitive Strategy in Luxury** This part critiques mainstream strategic frameworks, particularly those that emphasize cost-efficiency and market competition, explaining why they are often unsuitable for luxury brands. -\> need for a complementary view or an adjustment of some principles. Therefore there is no need to mention that luxury firms need a strategy: Positioning and Direction 1. **The Competitive Mindset**: - **Differnation advantage: Provide a rational for price premium** - **Cost adavantage: Superior cost structure** - **Explanation**: Traditional competitive strategies center on efficiency and market share, focusing on outpacing rivals through either cost reduction or differentiation. - **Irrelevance in Luxury**: Cost-cutting contradicts the luxury philosophy, as higher prices are integral to the luxury perception. Luxury brands avoid efficiency-focused strategies that could compromise quality or craftsmanship. - **Luxury Strategy Focus**: Instead of cost efficiency, luxury emphasizes extraordinariness, emotional connection, and artisanal quality, as these factors shape a brand's desirability and prestige. - **Make su forget about about our core idea of our creation** -\> being better or winning (it's not about being better, should more be a competition inspiring individual creation) 2. **Economic Logic:** **Price vs. Cost in Luxury**: - In luxury, price and cost are not inherently related. The idea of a \"price premium\" often assumes a relationship between price and cost, which can mislead luxury managers. - Traditional pricing starts with cost analysis, but luxury pricing doesn\'t adhere to this logic.  **Willingness to Pay and Economic Logic**: - Common belief: price should correlate with cost, as consumers perceive fairness when pricing is seen as rational. If the price becomes too high, consumers may perceive it as \"unfair\" and reduce their willingness to pay. - This assumption, where cost influences price decisions, is called \"economic logic,\" but it doesn\'t always apply in luxury markets.  **Luxury\'s Disconnection from Economic Logic**: - Luxury goods often defy the economic logic of pricing. The value of luxury items is not based on cost and can seem irrational, but this does not diminish their value. - Unlike regular businesses, luxury goods are valued differently, not by their cost but through other intangible factors.  **Price Premium in Luxury**: - The concept of price premium works when competition is based on similar products, but luxury pricing involves multiples of non-luxury prices. - Luxury pricing is not about small markups; it is about creating significant value beyond a simple price premium.  **Art as an Example**: - The price of modern art illustrates how value can be emotional, subjective, and detached from production cost. - People may pay high prices for art for reasons unrelated to the cost of materials or creation, highlighting that value creation does not always link to cost.  **Conclusion**: - In luxury markets, value is not determined by cost or rational economic logic. The decision to purchase is influenced by emotional, cultural, and symbolic factors, making price and cost unrelated in assessing luxury goods' value. 3. **Value Assessment**: **Key Points:** - **Traditional Value Assessment**: - Traditional strategies focus on functional value (quality, reliability), but luxury value often hinges on emotional and subjective factors, making it harder to assess. - **Emotional Value in Luxury**: - In luxury, value creation is driven by emotions, not just functionality, which traditional analysis tools can\'t fully explain. - **Challenges in Strategy for Luxury**: - Luxury products often have little functional utility, making it difficult to apply conventional strategic analysis to determine success or value. - **Different Value Assessment**: - While luxury value assessment isn\'t harder, it requires a different approach, as emotional and irrational factors outweigh functional ones. 4. **Traditional External Analysis Limitations**: - **Conventional View**: Tools like Porter's Five Forces assess competitive threats and leverage within a market, focusing on external threats and cost structures. - **Luxury-Specific Constraints**: This framework doesn't consider the central role of creativity, partnerships with artisans, and the non-substitutable nature of luxury products. Creative partnerships are fundamental to a luxury firm's identity and offer a distinct competitive edge over mere cost or positioning advantages. **The Need for a Luxury-Specific Strategy** The chapter culminates in arguing for a custom strategy for luxury brands that reflects their distinctive traits. Essential insights include: 1. **The Evolution of Management Tools**: - **Concept**: Just as other industries evolve and adapt management tools, the luxury sector needs updated frameworks to address its unique challenges effectively. - **Rationale**: General frameworks like cost-leadership or market positioning fail to capture the nuances of luxury, where emotional value and brand heritage outweigh functional benefits. 2. **Luxury Management as a Unique Discipline**: - **Distinct Approach**: Luxury strategy should encompass unique value creation methods that emphasize timelessness, emotional connections, and extraordinariness over pure utility. - **Strategic Implications**: Unlike other sectors, luxury brands succeed by curating exclusivity and mystique. Thus, luxury strategy requires principles that emphasize artistry, rarity, and brand-driven innovation rather than market-driven approaches. 3. **Examples of Luxury Success**: - **Chanel and Patek Philippe**: These brands embody a "luxury-first" strategy, prioritizing brand ethos and long-term reputation over market trends or rapid expansion. This approach reinforces brand value and ensures consistent high demand through perception of rarity and high quality. **Case Study: Maggie Henríquez at Krug Champagne** The case study examines Maggie Henríquez's approach at Krug Champagne as an application of luxury-specific managerial principles. Henríquez focused on reinforcing Krug\'s luxury identity by adhering to strict quality controls, enhancing exclusivity, and investing in storytelling that emphasized Krug's heritage and artisanal craftsmanship. Her strategies preserved Krug\'s market position as a luxury champagne brand that prioritizes quality and brand legacy over mass-market appeal. **Chapter Summary and Self-Study Questions** To reinforce learning, the chapter provides thought-provoking questions: 1. **Identify Failed Luxury Firms**: Analyze why certain luxury brands failed---were these due to mismanagement, lack of creative direction, or brand misalignment? 2. **Conflicting Priorities**: Describe how the differing priorities of management and creators may lead to tensions within a luxury brand. 3. **Importance of Art in Luxury**: Explore how an appreciation of art can inform and enhance luxury management practices. 4. **Luxury vs. Traditional Paradigms**: Analyze how luxury and traditional business paradigms differ and their impacts on strategic planning **Chapter 3: The Essence of Luxury -- Unveiling the Luxury Value Creation Process** **1. Introduction: Setting the Framework for Luxury Value Creation (not to be studied)** - **Objectives**: This chapter aims to reveal the essence of luxury, especially the factors that enable luxury firms to achieve extraordinary competitive positioning. Readers will: - Understand the **types of benefits** luxury offers (functional, emotional, and expressive). - Explore **normal vs. excess competition**, understanding how luxury products prioritize extraordinariness. - Examine **consistency and limits** within luxury to preserve a brand's elite status. - **Key Question**: The chapter probes, \"What makes luxury truly valuable?\" and addresses how a luxury brand must navigate the challenge of balancing extraordinariness with exclusivity, maintaining consistent quality and prestige without succumbing to market pressures to expand​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). **2. Luxury and Value Creation: Defining Value in the Luxury Context** - **Is Luxury Valuable?**: This section explains that luxury's value isn't based solely on practical benefits or utilitarian need but rather on **emotional and symbolic meanings**. Luxury goods are often perceived as valuable because they are: - **Scarce**: Limited production and rarity reinforce their perceived value. - **High-quality**: Materials, craftsmanship, and design contribute to their appeal. - **Status-symbolic**: Luxury items convey social status and identity. **Value creation=** a positive balance between benefits and costs - **Value from a Consumer Perspective**: - **Consumer Surplus**: A luxury item's worth is the perceived gap between what consumers are willing to pay and the actual price. This gap is significant in luxury, where emotional and expressive satisfaction often outweighs functional considerations. - **Value from a Firm Perspective**: - Firms create luxury value by transforming **resources** (like rare materials and specialized craftsmanship) into products that project brand identity. They rely on unique capabilities, such as storytelling, heritage, and exclusivity, which cannot be easily replicated​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). -\> **ability to provide benfits** **3. Types of Benefits in Luxury** - **Functional Benefits**: **"what the offer can do"** While luxury products may have functionality, this isn't their primary appeal. For instance, a luxury watch tells time, but its craftsmanship, brand heritage, and design are the primary selling points. - **Emotional Benefits**: **"what the offer can make me feel"** Luxury goods provide feelings of exclusivity, pride, or pleasure. This emotional attachment is a significant part of their value proposition. - **Expressive Benefits**: **"What the offering says about me or helps me to say"** Luxury allows consumers to convey identity, taste, or social standing. The symbolism in luxury brands often resonates strongly with consumers\' self-image. - These benefits are not exlusiv -\> scliessen sich nicht aus - Ressamble ethos, pathos, logos - **The Functionality Trap**: - This trap refers to a strategic pitfall where luxury brands overly focus on improving functionality, risking the erosion of their mystique and allure. For example, enhancing functionality without reinforcing the brand's symbolic qualities can make a luxury brand seem too practical, diluting its exclusivity -\> combination of rationality and emotions - "you forget the value because you're only focussing on the functional benefit" - Ex: New York Garbage Bag (see notes) - Classic paradigm starts on consumers needs -\> problem solving - Luxury starts with creative approach **4. Normal vs. Excess Competition: A Framework for Luxury Competitiveness** - **Normal Competition**: - **Characteristics**: Non-luxury markets focus on meeting customer needs through functionality, efficiency, and price competitiveness. Companies in these markets differentiate themselves with slight improvements in product quality or price reductions. - **Example**: In the tech market, brands compete by offering faster, cheaper, or more innovative devices. - **Strategy**: Firms compete within logical boundaries and aim for the economic equilibrium where customer demand aligns with product supply. -\> They have certain price limits because the price is argumented on the functional benefits - **Value creation is not existent** - **Excess Competition**: - **Definition**: Luxury brands differentiate by providing products that go beyond mere functionality. They cultivate a perception of **extraordinariness**---a quality that feels rare, unique, or even excessive compared to typical products. - **Extraordinariness as Key**: Luxury competition is based on elements that inspire awe, admiration, and sometimes surprise. Luxury items are often over-engineered, designed with intricate craftsmanship, or carry a strong heritage story. - **Example**: A luxury brand might use rare materials, exclusive designs, and handcrafting techniques, all of which elevate the product beyond standard market offerings​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). ![Ein Bild, das Text, Screenshot, Schrift, Zahl enthält. Automatisch generierte Beschreibung](media/image5.png) Price premium: normal/avrage price -\> has to stay reasonable Ein Bild, das Text, Screenshot, Schrift, Zahl enthält. Automatisch generierte Beschreibung -\> just by provding something which is breaking the funtionality or breaking the logic or making it so expensive that inequalities appear without ensuring the other sets of benefit's then when do not create value, it has to be obvious the people have to get what you are standing for -\> emotional and expressive support the creation of value -\> **to exceed normality is trough extraordinnariness** ![Ein Bild, das Text, Screenshot, Schrift enthält. Automatisch generierte Beschreibung](media/image7.png) - **Functinal: we can convince** - **Emotional: hard to explain, it's a feeling and a long process + hard to achieve** Maybe see deeper information in text **5. Essence of Luxury: Extraordinariness as Competitive Edge** **1. How is ex perceived** **2. How can we achieve it** Ein Bild, das Text, Screenshot, Schrift, Zahl enthält. Automatisch generierte Beschreibung **Detailed Summary of the \"Essence of Luxury\" Section** 1. **Conceiving Extraordinariness: Luxury as a Choice** - The essence of luxury lies in **going beyond normality** or conventional competition. This is not about incremental improvements; rather, it\'s a creative leap that transforms consumer expectations. This approach can't be strictly measured or rationalized like standard competition. For luxury brands, extraordinariness is a deliberate choice to be distinct, not merely a goal 2. **Extraordinariness Is Not an Improvement** - Luxury is not about being \"better\" or more functional but about delivering something unique and emotionally resonant. Standard products improve to meet practical needs, while luxury products fulfill deeper, non-functional desires. For instance, mechanical watches are less precise than quartz watches, yet they embody craftsmanship and artistry that resonate emotionally with buyers​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). 3. **Extraordinariness Is Not Only About Quality** - While quality is essential, it alone doesn't define luxury. For a product to be extraordinary, it must evoke **emotional and expressive benefits**. Quality serves as a foundation, but it\'s the added emotional resonance---such as pride or identity expression---that elevates a luxury item from being merely high-quality to extraordinary​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). 4. **Extraordinariness Is Hard to Assess and Requires a Learning Curve** - Recognizing and appreciating luxury often requires experience and education. For example, assessing fine wine or leather goods isn't intuitive; appreciation grows as consumers learn more about the artistry, history, and unique qualities of these items. This journey often differentiates status-seeking buyers from knowledgeable connoisseurs​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). 5. **Extraordinariness Requires Leadership** - The path to creating extraordinary products requires visionary leadership, often from a brand's founder or a figure embodying the brand\'s spirit. These leaders chart unique paths and make bold choices that set their brands apart, not by following trends but by creating new ones. This approach is seen across luxury brands, where founder-led visions shape distinctive brand identities​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). 6. **Extraordinariness Is a Choice, Not a Goal** - Unlike conventional goals, which can be measured and achieved, extraordinariness is an ongoing choice that shapes the brand's identity. It encompasses subjective, creative, and expressive values, requiring brands to commit to a vision rather than merely pursue a market-driven target​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). 7. **Learning Extraordinariness by Examples, Not by Imitation** - Since luxury brands are rooted in unique choices rather than rules, the best way to understand luxury is through case studies and examples, not by imitation. For instance, examining the choices that led to the success of brands like Pagani, Krug Champagne, and MB&F helps illustrate how unique visions translate into extraordinary products​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). 8. **Role of Resources and Capabilities** - Beyond vision, luxury brands need robust **resources** and **organizational capabilities** to bring their extraordinary concepts to life. This involves tangible resources like high-quality materials, intangible assets such as brand reputation, and skilled human resources. These elements enable brands to consistently deliver on their promises of luxury - Value chain =\> VRIO, valuble, rare, imitalable, organize ![Ein Bild, das Text, Screenshot, Schrift, Zahl enthält. Automatisch generierte Beschreibung](media/image9.png) 9. **Organizational Capabilities** - To execute on extraordinariness, brands require organizational capabilities that support their unique brand choices. This means structuring the organization to focus on unique aspects like craftsmanship, service, and customer relationships, all of which reinforce the luxury experience​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). 10. **Extraordinariness Takes a Lot of Time** - Achieving and sustaining luxury requires patience and time. This slow-building approach allows luxury brands to develop deep connections with their consumers, emphasizing scarcity and rarity. Leaders like Horacio Pagani and Joseph Krug took years to build their brands, emphasizing that luxury is a long-term pursuit and not an immediate gain - Appreciate not explained - A luxury brand i a consequence not a goal; resource to own - Being ex vs. looking ex; WITHOUT ESSENCE, no luxus ️ only creative ways to break normality and supported by organizational capabilities to realistic thickly claimed the achievement of extraordinariness will be the path to successful luxury strategic **6. The Limits of Luxury: Balancing Exclusivity and Market Expansion** - **Balancing Act Between Normality and Excess**: - Luxury managers must maintain a delicate balance between making products accessible to new customers and preserving the brand's elite status. Crossing this line risks normalizing the brand, which can dilute its exclusivity. - **Consistency**: - Blurred for 2 reasons; - emotional and expressive dominante - luxury term abused - Ensuring that all products and brand communications remain consistent with the brand's luxury image is critical. Brands must be wary of expanding their range too far or introducing products that could appear overly commercial. -\> not be distracted by normal competition - Miror of society - Lux is a phenomen not a product + extrordinaryness as a way to create value - BRAND DILUTION=LACK OF CONSISTENCY - **Managing Entry-Level Luxury**: - Entry-level luxury products are often a strategy to attract new consumers without compromising the brand's exclusivity. These products need to maintain a luxury feel and align with the brand's core values, despite being more affordable. - Protect exclusivity over growth -\> price shows level of extraordinariness - **Challenge**: Successfully executing this strategy means ensuring that these items do not feel mass-market or overly accessible​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). **7. Case Study: Porsche Macan -- Testing the Limits of Luxury** - **Introduction of Porsche Macan**: - The Macan, a luxury SUV introduced by Porsche, illustrates how luxury brands navigate the challenges of market expansion. As an entry-level model, it offers the Porsche experience to a broader audience while potentially diluting the brand's exclusivity. - **Strategic Considerations**: - **Targeting a New Demographic**: The Macan was aimed at younger, affluent consumers who aspire to own a Porsche but may not afford higher-end models. - **Risks**: Porsche faced criticism for risking its exclusive brand image by broadening its customer base, potentially alienating its traditional consumers. - **Outcome**: Porsche\'s Macan became a commercial success, demonstrating that strategic brand extensions can work if managed carefully. However, the brand continues to monitor its positioning to avoid overreach, which could threaten its elite appeal​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). **8. Conclusion and Key Managerial Insights** - **Luxury Value Creation Framework**: This chapter establishes that the essence of luxury competition lies in crafting extraordinariness through excess rather than mere functionality or price competitiveness. - **Using the VRIO Framework**: Luxury firms should evaluate their resources and capabilities through the VRIO lens to ensure they can sustain a competitive edge based on distinctiveness, rarity, and the brand's heritage. - **Preserving Consistency and Exclusivity**: The chapter emphasizes that consistency across all products and consumer interactions is crucial for maintaining a luxury brand\'s allure​(Strategic Luxury Manage...)​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). **9. Self-Study Questions** - **Value Creation**: Consider examples of luxury brands that emphasize emotional or expressive value over functional benefits. Discuss the significance of each type. - **Avoiding the Functionality Trap**: Reflect on why luxury brands must resist focusing solely on practicality or utility. How can this affect brand perception? - **Extraordinariness in Practice**: Identify brands or industries where excess is integral to their competitive strategy. How does this differ from typical consumer goods? - **Maintaining Exclusivity with Entry-Level Products**: Explore the challenges luxury brands face when introducing entry-level products. How can they ensure these products do not harm the brand's image? **Chapter 5: Luxury as a Creative Industry in *Strategic Luxury Management*** **1. Introduction and Objectives of Chapter 5 (not to study)** **Primary Focus**: This chapter broadens the understanding of creativity within luxury firms to emphasize why luxury cannot be isolated. Creativity is an interdependent construct that relies on external partners, locations, and consumer engagement for value creation. This chapter builds a framework to analyze these collaborative interactions through a model called the *Creative Value System*, addressing key external influences on luxury brands and highlighting the market variations that dictate creative strategies​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). **2. Why Creativity is Essential for External Analysis in Luxury** - **Key Insight**: Traditional competitive analysis does not suffice for luxury brands, as luxury firms often function in unique environments. Their value creation involves complex collaborations and cultural influences not seen in more transactional or price-driven industries. - **It's not only their soul,**it goes beyond the bounderies of the firm - **PESTLE** - **Mix internal and external** Geographical location : - Vital role beyond the firms capabilities **3. The Creative Value System Framework** The Creative Value System integrates four elements critical for luxury firms to create, sustain, and communicate value: 1. **The Firm** - The internal organization of the firm, including its design philosophy, brand narrative, and innovation culture, serves as the core. However, the firm alone cannot produce luxury without external support. Luxury houses like MB&F demonstrate this integration by prioritizing unique creative approaches to maintain relevancy and differentiation​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). 2. **Partners** - **Definition**: Partners, unlike suppliers, are irreplaceable collaborators whose specialized expertise (such as artisanship or unique materials) is essential to the luxury product\'s final value. This dependency underscores the non-substitutable role of partners in luxury. Examples include the unique artisanship in watchmaking or exclusive leather suppliers for high-end fashion - **Notable Example**: Maximilian Büsser's brand MB&F (Maximilian Büsser and Friends) integrates independent artisans into its identity. This relationship goes beyond transactional dealings, valuing partners as co-creators essential for the brand's uniqueness 3. **Location** - **Significance**: Geographic clusters, such as Switzerland for watchmaking or Paris for haute couture, concentrate knowledge, resources, and tradition. This localized expertise and heritage add irreplaceable authenticity and prestige to luxury goods. - It can infleunce your opportunities, for your **partners** and knowledge, also pick wisely to have the required needs and better chances to explore, also **raw material + education** - Certain requirements - **Components of Location-Based Value**: Proximity to educational institutions and media focused on luxury products enhances innovation and visibility. These clusters also promote the exchange of expertise, solidifying the location's status and enriching the brand's narrative​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). - **Ex Balenciaga** 4. **Appreciation of extraordinariness (The 3 T's of value appreciation framework)** **Difficulty appreciation (cahpter 4)** **Difficulty conception (chapter 3)** **1. Transfer** **Purpose**: The primary objective of the Transfer stage is to **send information** about the luxury item or brand to a selected audience. Awareness is a foundational aspect of value creation in luxury; consumers cannot appreciate or demand what they do not know exists. -\> raise awarness, make sure the audience receive the message - **Actors**: Anyone can theoretically perform this role, but it is typically **media, communication channels, distributors, or point-of-sale locations**. Luxury firms may partner with specific, specialized media or distributors to ensure message accuracy and resonance with the luxury consumer's values. - **Characteristics**: - **Selective Message Crafting**: Unlike mass marketing for non-luxury goods, which focuses on reaching broad audiences, luxury communications must be more **selective**, focusing on channels that can convey complexity, emotion, and rarity. - **Focus on Emotional and Expressive Benefits**: In luxury, value derives from **emotional and expressive attributes**, rather than functional benefits. This makes the transmission of the message complex and tailored. -\> works also perefct with funtional benefeits - **Avoiding Mass Media**: Mass media, often geared toward functional and simple messaging, may not effectively convey the layered, sophisticated story of luxury. Luxury messages are thus communicated through **specialized, niche channels** that enhance exclusivity. **2. Traduce** **Purpose**: Traduce translates complex creative messages, making them **clearer** and more understandable. Since luxury often conveys intricate ideas of craftsmanship, history, or artistry, simplification without loss of meaning is crucial. -\> understanding, traducing into words and concepts they can understand - **Actors**: Traduce is frequently performed by **opinion leaders** (such as industry experts, journalists, or influencers) who can interpret the brand's message for the public. -\> help to understand the message - **Characteristics**: - **Clarifying Complexity**: Luxury messages often contain nuances that may be overwhelming for new consumers. Opinion leaders interpret and **filter** these complexities to make them digestible without diminishing their essence. - **Filtering whats relevenat and what is not** - **Conflict of Interest Potential**: Luxury brands must be cautious of **potential biases** from opinion leaders. Since these leaders may have personal preferences or values that could alter the luxury brand's intended portrayal, brands should critically assess the degree to which opinion leaders align with their own values and messages. - **Focus on Trustworthy Interpretation**: Traduce also involves ensuring that interpreters **respect the brand's vision** and avoid simplifications that could alter its unique luxury positioning. Unlike the transfer phase, which simply conveys information, Traduce focuses on **enhancing understanding and appreciation**through interpretation. - **Capsule**: from editors to istagrammers - **Expert perspective**; simplify, organize and share it - Influencer perspective: acceptence from a shared advice due to emotion -\> emotional acceptance, no need to be experienced -\> mirror of social change -\> value should not be assed from the lenses of functionality -\> IT SHOULD BE APPRECIATED RATHER THEN CONVINCED this is ist role -\> it's not about translating in words: explain creativity trough simplicity, selcting and filtering, you do not need to be an engerneer to enjoy sportscar **3. Teach** **Purpose**: Teaching goes beyond simplification; it fosters a deeper appreciation and learning that is specific to the **luxury brand's identity**. This stage is about **imparting knowledge of extraordinariness** to enhance consumer understanding over time. - Clarify and explain who they are and why they do what they do - **Actors**: Primarily, the **luxury firm itself** undertakes this role, but opinion leaders can also contribute. - **Characteristics**: - **Learning Curve of Appreciation**: Appreciation in luxury is a journey that requires consumers to gradually understand elements like **craftsmanship, choice of materials, and artistic decisions**. This is especially relevant in industries where value appreciation benefits from firsthand experience, as with luxury watches, wines, or jewelry. - **Non-Hierarchical Approach**: Unlike traditional education, which may impose a hierarchy, luxury firms focus on **guiding the consumer\'s understanding gently** rather than dictating preferences. For example, a luxury watchmaker may provide insights into their processes without asserting superiority over other brands, fostering an environment of genuine learning. - **Long-Term Relationship Building**: The Teach stage is about creating a lasting connection. Through visits to workshops, personalized experiences, and immersive storytelling, luxury firms enable consumers to **feel involved in the brand's narrative**. For instance, brands like Hermès invite clients to witness their artisans at work, creating a sense of belonging and deepened appreciation. - **Complementary Roles and Strategic Implications** **Enhance the competiviness by lowering the difficulties associated witrh the achievement of extraordinariness** The \"3 Ts\" framework highlights that these roles can often be **complementary and overlapping**. For instance: - A **show or event** (like a fashion show) may function as all three, transferring new collection details, clarifying complex design inspirations, and teaching through immersive experiences. - Luxury firms may combine channels, using **advertisements** to transfer information and collaborating with opinion leaders for traduction, followed by curated in-store experiences or workshops that serve the teach function. Ein Bild, das Text, Screenshot, Schrift, Zahl enthält. Automatisch generierte Beschreibung The difference bewteen translationa nd tecahing: - Translation: make the message clear -\> easier and transparent for consumers - Teaching: referred to the learing effect based on specifitity of the firm and extraordineriness **4. Three Types of Business Environments in Luxury** 2 compotents of value creation: - How value is constructed and who takes part in process Luxury firms operate within diverse market types, each requiring distinct strategies for value creation: - **Creative Markets** - Defined by cooperative relationships, these markets require luxury brands to collaborate with artisans, raw material providers, and even cultural institutions. The emphasis is on collective efforts to craft products of remarkable quality and distinction. This market type represents the essence of the *Creative Value System*. - Not driven toward rival competition, collective effors partners location appreciation, external and internal players, emotional and expressive - **Traditional Markets** - These markets are highly competitive, with firms primarily vying through efficiency, brand positioning, and cost management. Luxury firms face challenges here, as traditional market dynamics often clash with the ethos of luxury, which avoids price-driven competition and aims to preserve exclusivity - Classic paradigm, competitive advantage, value chain, identifying key organizatial capabilities, focused on consumers needs, winning over competition - **Networked Markets** - Networked markets focus on the influence of the **customer network**. Here, firms utilize consumer **engagement platforms**, brand communities, and social networks to strengthen consumer loyalty and foster brand exclusivity digitally. This market type reflects the increasing importance of digital channels in luxury strategy - The **value increases with the number of uses** -\> generates positive externalities, create a larger user base, identify a convenient buisness model - New forms of competition; platform can be treaten by another one that uses a combination of services the ruval can't match ![](media/image11.png) Differnet forms of value creation **5. Case Study: Maximilian Büsser and Friends (MB&F)** - **Brand Concept**: MB&F exemplifies the Creative Value System by embedding partnerships into its business model. Founder Maximilian Büsser recognized the irreplaceable contributions of independent watchmakers and artisans, prompting him to establish a brand that honors and integrates these external influences. - **Strategic Outcome**: Through this collaborative approach, MB&F differentiates itself in the luxury market, achieving exclusivity and high consumer appreciation by reinforcing its brand identity with the work of exceptional partners​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). **6. Conclusion and Key Takeaways (nur lesen)** - **Collaborative Creativity**: Success in luxury relies on a firm's ability to leverage unique external capabilities. Luxury firms must focus on partnerships that bring irreplaceable value, enhancing both product quality and brand prestige. - **Strategic Role of Location**: Geographic clusters enhance both innovation and authenticity. Recognizing the strategic value of location helps luxury firms anchor their narratives in places associated with craftsmanship and heritage. - **Consumer Education and Appreciation**: Luxury firms should prioritize the *3 T's of appreciation* to bridge the gap between product value and consumer perception, fostering a deeper connection with consumers that elevates the product beyond its functional attributes. - **Market-Specific Strategies**: Understanding and differentiating between creative, traditional, and networked markets allow luxury firms to tailor their strategies effectively to each environment's demands, ensuring sustained relevance and competitive positioning​(Strategic Luxury Manage...). **Chapter 6: Principles of Business-Level Rivalry: The Means of the Luxury Firm** **Introduction and Objectives** - This chapter addresses how luxury firms navigate business-level rivalry by focusing on: - Strategy formulation and its unique requirements in luxury. - Challenges in effective strategy implementation. - Adapting competition principles to fit the luxury industry\'s unique demands, where maintaining exclusivity, brand image, and heritage is critical. - Using real-world case studies to provide insight into successful turnarounds and transformations that illustrate effective strategy execution. **1. Business Strategy in Practice: From Formulation to Implementation** **EXTRAORDINARINESS SHOULD SERVE AS A GUIDELINE TO THE COMPETITIVE ADAVNTAGE = ESSENCE** **ANALYSIS OF CREATION OF VALUE = NATURE** - **Strategy Formulation**: - Rooted in Robert Grant's strategic framework, luxury strategy involves positioning, market selection, and long-term direction: - **Positioning**: - **Competitive Advantage**: The luxury firm must identify its unique value proposition---what sets it apart in quality, heritage, craftsmanship, and exclusivity. - **DEFINE HOW TO COMPETE** - **Market Selection**: Decides the markets and customer segments the brand will serve. For example, high-end watches might target affluent clientele in metropolitan areas, while luxury automotive brands may focus on regions with significant demand for personalized vehicles. - **DEFINE WHERE TO COMPETE** - **Direction**: - A long-term strategic vision, often tied to the brand's heritage and values, serves as a guiding principle. For luxury firms, this direction includes preserving exclusivity and maintaining brand prestige. - **DEFINE LONG TERM GOALS** - **Brand Heritage and Identity**: These are critical assets. Luxury brands like Hermès or Rolls-Royce, for example, leverage heritage as a core part of their identity, embedding it into their direction and strategy to ensure that new products or services resonate with their historical image and values. - **DEFINE WHO WE ARE** - **Strategy Implementation**: (just very short, don't study all details) - Translating strategies into action plans is especially challenging for luxury firms due to the need to balance consistency with exclusivity. - **Operational Alignment**: Ensuring that every aspect of operations---from production to marketing to customer service---reflects luxury standards and the brand's unique value proposition. - **Consistency and Quality Control**: Luxury brands must maintain high-quality standards across all markets, which requires close monitoring and quality control processes. - **Example**: A brand like Chanel must ensure that a handbag produced in one location matches the quality of those produced elsewhere, regardless of market-specific adaptations, to preserve brand integrity globally. **2. Differences Across Luxury Categories** - **Luxury Categories and Their Unique Requirements**: - Luxury categories are highly diverse and include sectors like fashion, jewelry, timepieces, cosmetics, automobiles, hospitality, and more. Each category has distinct customer expectations, scaling potential, and market dynamics that influence strategy. - **Personal vs. Experiential Luxury**: Categories such as apparel or accessories differ from hospitality (e.g., luxury hotels) in consumer engagement and service expectations. - **Personal Luxury Goods**: These typically involve high levels of craftsmanship and brand history, with a focus on personal ownership and identity. - **Experiential Luxury**: Includes services where luxury is experienced through service, ambiance, and personalization, like luxury hotels or bespoke travel experiences. **1. Two Key Category-Specific Factors in Strategic Processes** When formulating strategy, two essential factors must be analyzed for each luxury category: - **Category Power**: How influential and profitable a category is within the luxury market. - **Business Model**: The typical operational and financial model for each category, including the impact of intermediaries and points of sale. **2. Powerful Categories in Personal Luxury** - **Luxury Industry Independence**: - Most luxury industries, such as automotive, hospitality, and winery, operate independently of one another, with firms specializing in distinct products. For example, Porsche specializes in cars, Four Seasons in hospitality, and Krug in champagne. - Firms in these sectors focus primarily on their niche products. - **Personal Luxury Category**: - Personal luxury encompasses a wide array of items, including fashion, accessories, leather goods, and jewelry. - Within personal luxury, certain categories hold more strategic importance due to profitability, growth potential, and market appeal. For example, leather goods or watches may provide higher profitability and status. - **Scale Potential**: Firms that achieve success in powerful categories gain greater market influence and scalability, enhancing profitability and competitiveness. **Example of Category Power: Burberry's Strategy in Leather Goods** - Burberry, led by CEO Marco Gobbetti and creative director Riccardo Tisci, strategically focused on expanding within leather goods---a highly profitable and influential category in luxury. - **Strategic Move**: Burberry shifted its emphasis toward upscale leather goods to increase revenue share from this category, which accounted for about 40% of their sales and aimed to exceed 50%. - **Objective**: Rather than broad diversification, Burberry targets growth in the competitive and lucrative leather goods market to leverage a renewed competitive advantage, especially in high-quality leather bags produced in-house in Italy. **Example of Category Power: Montblanc's Diversification into Watches** - **Diversification Success**: Montblanc successfully expanded from writing instruments into watchmaking, establishing Montblanc Montre SA in Switzerland in 1997. - This strategic expansion into a **\"powerful category\"** helped Montblanc grow its scale and profitability. By investing in watchmaking, Montblanc leveraged the category's strong market appeal and complex craftsmanship. - Had Montblanc chosen less influential categories like belts or shoes, its growth trajectory and market influence would have been significantly more limited. - **Insights**: - Luxury firms prioritize success in powerful categories, such as leather goods, watches, and jewelry, which have high status, profitability, and customer appeal. - **Psychological and Social Factors**: Powerful categories are often products that symbolize lifestyle, status, or identity, such as bags for women and watches for men, which further solidifies a brand's luxury status. - **A sucess on powerful category allows the firm to develop at a different scale** - **Powerfull categories; leather goods, watches, jewellery** - **Most powerfull players are key players in those categories** - **THESE CXATEGORIES CAN BE A BETTER PLATFORM FOR EXTRAORDINARINESS: more room to express + powerfull psycological meaning (feminine bagsn + masculine watches)** **3. Differences Across Business Models** Luxury business models vary significantly by category and product type, particularly based on the role of intermediaries, direct-to-consumer channels, and point-of-sale (POS) structures. Each model influences pricing, customer relationships, and profitability. Three primary models exist: **A. Service-Based, Direct-to-Consumer Model** - Common in **hospitality, restaurants, and cruises**, this model involves direct customer relationships without physical product exchange. - **Intermediaries** may facilitate bookings or increase visibility, but the firm itself controls the quality of service directly. - **Strategic Implications**: Direct consumer relationships are complex and costly to manage, requiring high control over the customer experience. **B. Single Investment Model** - Suitable for high-cost items like **art, yachts, jets, and cars**, where purchases are infrequent but involve significant investments. - **Intermediary Influence**: In this model, intermediaries often hold substantial influence over pricing and customer relationships due to the complex and high-value nature of the transactions. - **Example**: In the car industry, brands often control intermediaries through exclusivity agreements, whereas yacht makers face more complex intermediary networks. **C. Point-of-Sale (POS) or Retail-Driven Model** **POS= location or moment where transaction takes place B2C** - Predominant in **personal luxury categories** (e.g., fashion and accessories), this model relies on physical or digital retail points for frequent purchases. - **Proprietary POS**: Known as Direct Operated Stores (DOS), proprietary retail spaces allow luxury brands to control customer experiences and reinforce brand exclusivity. - **Non-Proprietary POS**: For some lower-margin products (e.g., cosmetics, perfumes), luxury brands may use third-party retailers to reach customers efficiently without owning the POS. - **Digital POS Integration**: - Digital stores are increasingly relevant and serve as complementary rather than substitute POS channels. The physical store emphasizes experiential value (e.g., tactile interactions), while online platforms enhance convenience and accessibility.COMPLEMENTARY NOT SUBSTITUTE By strategically leveraging powerful categories and adapting the appropriate business model, luxury firms can maximize market positioning, scale, and profitability within the luxury sector. ![Ein Bild, das Text, Screenshot, Zahl, Schrift enthält. Automatisch generierte Beschreibung](media/image13.png) **3. Fundamental Problems in Luxury Rivalry** **1. Poor Strategy Formulation** - **No Clear Goals**: - Successful luxury strategies require precise, long-term goals. Lacking clarity in goal-setting can lead to misaligned initiatives and confused brand messaging. - Clear goals should align with the luxury firm's core values, such as exclusivity, heritage, and exceptional quality, ensuring consistency across all efforts. - Balance between adaption and social change - Not following social demand, short term trends can be misleading - **Avoiding Complexity**: - **Simplicity vs. Complexity in Luxury**: Luxury markets value complexity due to the notion of extraordinariness and intricate craftsmanship that drives customer value perception. However, luxury firms often simplify their strategies to make competitive advantages easier to communicate. - **Risk of Oversimplification**: Over-simplifying can strip away the uniqueness that luxury consumers expect, especially when extraordinary craftsmanship or quality is a brand's key differentiator - **They should not avoid it, they should explain it!** - **Misuse of Storytelling**: - **Role of Storytelling**: Luxury brands often use storytelling to convey brand heritage, craftsmanship, and values. When storytelling is done well, it builds trust and reflects the brand's identity authentically. - **Must be realistic and have the purpose to explain etraordinariness** - **Dangers of "Tales"**: If storytelling diverges into fictionalized narratives (termed "tales"), it can harm credibility. Stories should highlight true elements, such as founders' challenges, philosophies, and key milestones, rather than exaggerated or fictional attributes **Poor Strategy Implementation** - **Importance of Execution**: - A well-designed strategy alone does not guarantee success; effective implementation is critical. - Execution means transforming strategic intentions into reality, a process that often fails due to inconsistencies within the firm\'s operations and market positioning. - **Key Issues in Implementation**: - **Inconsistencies in Distribution**: - Selecting an appropriate distribution system is crucial in luxury, where distribution affects brand perception. - Example: A luxury firm may choose a Direct-Operated Store (DOS) model for better control over brand presentation, while third-party retailers could dilute brand value if poorly managed. - Case Example: Prada's aggressive distribution expansion led to reduced profits and brand dilution, underscoring the importance of selective distribution. - **Price Discipline**: - **Price is a core tool for luxury brand communication**, impacting how consumers perceive exclusivity and value. - **Risks of Price Fluctuations**: Unplanned price increases or decreases can create confusion, weakening a brand's extraordinariness. - Discounts or outlet sales are particularly harmful to luxury perception; the most successful brands maintain strong price discipline without discounting in stores. - **Misleading Communication**: - Consistent messaging is vital to maintain the luxury brand's unique positioning. A disconnect between brand narrative and real value can lead to customer disillusionment. - Case Example: Krug Champagne's early 2000s communication strategy emphasized status over its actual extraordinariness (blending quality), alienating loyal customers. - **Poor Product Portfolio Management**: - Expanding into unrelated product categories can dilute brand identity if not strategically aligned with the luxury brand\'s core values. - The complexities of diversification are covered more extensively in Chapter 7, particularly in relation to balancing new market entries with brand heritage. - **Financial and Internal Management Issues**: - Financial mismanagement or internal conflicts, particularly in family-owned luxury brands, can lead to significant strategic failures. - Case Example: Gucci's near-bankruptcy prior to the leadership of Domenico De Sole and Tom Ford highlights how poor financial and managerial discipline can jeopardize luxury brands. **Poor Assessment of Threats and Adaptation to Change** - **Understanding Change in Luxury**: - Luxury is inherently tied to social trends but relies on stable elements to preserve its competitive edge. - Luxury firms face a challenge in balancing adaptation to social evolution with the need to maintain a consistent brand identity. - ADAPT TO SOCIAL EVOLUTION WHILE STAYING CONSISTANT - **Types of Threats**: - **Complementary Threats**: - These threats introduce new products or trends that expand market options without undermining the firm's core extraordinariness. - To have more alternativces - Does not chnage the ex. , does not mean they have to follow the change - Examples of complementary threats: - **Sneakers**: As society became more casual, luxury brands adapted by introducing high-end sneakers. Chanel's 2014 haute couture sneaker launch is a notable example of responding proactively to a complementary threat. - **New Technologies**: Innovations like headphones gained popularity as cultural shifts (e.g., hip-hop) drove demand, as seen with Beats by Dre. Established brands like Sennheiser adapted, demonstrating the potential of complementary threats. - **Luxury Hospitality vs. Airbnb**: Airbnb's success represents a complementary threat to luxury hotels. Studies show that Airbnb can even boost luxury room demand as higher Airbnb prices correlate with increased luxury hotel demand. - **Implications for Luxury Brands**: Complementary threats can offer opportunities if brands recognize and respond appropriately, either by expanding product offerings or reinvigorating core values. - **Substitution Threats**: - These are more severe threats that can disrupt or replace an existing market or product, diminishing the relevance of the firm's original value proposition. - In extreme case the market can be taken by new players - In Luxus it is less likly to occur - Example: The quartz watch revolution in the 1980s posed a substitution threat to Swiss mechanical watches, as quartz technology offered superior precision and affordability. Swiss brands survived by repositioning mechanical watches as aspirational products with emotional value, under Mr. Nicolas Hayek's leadership. - **Electric Vehicles (EVs) and Smartwatches**: - **EVs**: As sustainable technology gains popularity, luxury automotive brands like Porsche have begun adapting to EVs to mitigate the risk of substitution. - **Smartwatches**: While smartwatches serve primarily functional needs, they pose a complementary rather than substitution threat to high-end mechanical watches. The latter remain rooted in craftsmanship and emotional value, targeting different consumer motivations. - **Example of Complementary vs. Substitution Threat - Smartwatches vs. Mechanical Watches**: - The introduction of high-end smartwatches, like the gold Apple Watch, was perceived as a potential substitution threat due to its luxury pricing. However, it ultimately lacked the extraordinariness of luxury timepieces and faced rapid technological obsolescence. - Over time, smartwatches have primarily posed a complementary threat, as their focus on functionality contrasts with the emotional and expressive value of mechanical watches. While entry-level consumers may choose between the two, high-end luxury segments are less affected. **4. The Means of Luxury Rivalry: The 3C's of Luxury Competition Framework** - **The 3C's Framework for Navigating Luxury Competition**: - This framework identifies **Control, Consistency, and Confidence** as essential principles for managing competition within luxury. - **IT'S A GUIDELINE TO PUT STRATEGY INTO ACTION** **The Need for Control** - **Control as Essential to Value Creation**: - Control is crucial in luxury because the value of luxury products lies in unique emotional and expressive benefits, which are complex to quantify and communicate. - As luxury relies on subjective, creative value (per Chapter 3's concept of extraordinariness and Chapter 5's 3T framework), luxury brands must ensure [strict control over the experience and interpretation of the brand to protect and maintain this value.] - **Experience Control and the Role of Direct-Operated Stores (DOS)**: - **Direct Control in Retail**: Luxury brands, like Louis Vuitton in Japan during the 1990s, pioneered the Direct-Operated Store (DOS) model to retain control over brand presentation internationally. - **Why Third-Party Retailers Often Fall Short**: While third-party retailers may boost sales, they may lack the nuance to communicate the brand's creative philosophy, leading to inconsistencies or tendencies toward discounting, which undermine the brand\'s value. - **Franchises vs. Luxury Retail**: Unlike fast food (e.g., McDonald\'s) where franchise models work due to standardized experiences, luxury requires a more nuanced touch, making franchise models unsuitable for luxury's complex brand values. - **Balancing Costs and Benefits of Control**: - **Different Approaches by Category**: - Accessories and fashion with high volume and repeat purchases often justify the cost of DOS. - For hard luxury categories like watches, strategies vary: brands like Swatch use DOS, while Rolex relies on select retailers. - The decision on DOS versus selective retail reflects each brand's goals and business model. - **Tools for Ensuring Control**: - **Identifying Touchpoints (or \"Moments of Truth\")**: Jan Carlzon's "Moments of Truth" approach helps brands identify crucial customer interactions, ensuring each point reinforces the brand\'s value. - **Creative Value System**: Luxury firms [analyze partners and value activities to identify critical points requiring direct control], such as in-store experience, after-sales, or distribution, which are key to maintaining the emotional and expressive benefits central to luxury value. **The Need for Consistency** - **Consistency as a Support for Credibility**: - **Building Credibility**: Consistency in luxury involves aligning all brand facets with its core values to build and maintain credibility. - **Risk of Inconsistencies**: Even minor inconsistencies, like discounting, can erode a brand\'s extraordinariness, jeopardizing its luxury status by making it appear less exclusive or valuable. - **Consistency Beyond Homogeneity**: - **Difference Between Consistency and Homogeneity**: Consistency should focus on underlying values, not uniform product or design. - **Examples of Value-Based Consistency**: - **Maximilian Büsser**: Created horological pieces with distinct designs but consistent in their underlying creative philosophy, showing consistency in approach rather than appearance. - **Hermès Store Variation**: Each store has unique product assortments but consistently upholds luxury service and exclusivity, encouraging exploration without homogeneity. - **Consistency in Codes and Meaning**: - Luxury brands utilize ["codes"---a set of design], tone, and organizational beliefs---to convey their personality and values. - Codes, beyond logos or fonts, guide a brand's choices in design, packaging, and location, providing customers with a recognizable and trustworthy brand identity. - **Determining What to be Consistent With**: - **Selective Consistency**: Consistency should focus on the source of extraordinariness, not superficial elements like product specifics. - **Case of Streetwear in Luxury**: While streetwear may seem inconsistent with traditional luxury categories, it can reflect the brand's core creative values and adapt to social changes without detracting from its extraordinariness. - **Adaptation and Relevance**: Successful luxury brands navigate change by distinguishing which aspects should evolve and which should remain stable to retain brand integrity. **The Need for Confidence** - **Confidence as a Managerial Mindset**: - **Internalizing Luxury Principles**: Luxury managers need to internalize luxury principles for sound decision-making, understanding that luxury is founded on emotional, rather than purely functional, benefits. - **Contrast with Non-Luxury Mindsets**: Managers from non-luxury backgrounds may struggle with luxury's unique value-based pricing and brand consistency requirements. - **Confidence in Value Creation**: - **Importance of Believing in the Luxury Approach**: Managers need a deep belief in the brand's unique value (its extraordinariness) to avoid short-term temptations, such as price discounts that could undermine long-term brand value. - **The Role of Time and Experience**: Gaining confidence involves developing a sensitivity to the luxury principles and extraordinary qualities over time, which is crucial to maintaining brand prestige and consistency in the market. - **Strategic Implications of Confidence**: - Confidence allows managers to make decisions that reinforce the brand's uniqueness, supporting sustained value creation and market relevance. - By fostering a consistent belief in luxury's unique value, luxury brands can resist pressures that might otherwise compromise their status 5. **Lessons to learn** ![](media/image16.png) 1. **Essence**: - Essence is the core of [how luxury firms create value], centered on their unique extraordinariness. - Luxury brands often look back to rediscover the original factors that made them extraordinary. This is more than claiming heritage; it involves re-establishing their unique artistic value. - Example: Maggie Hernandez revitalized Krug by emphasizing the "art of blend," reconnecting the brand to its core values. 2. **Nature**: - Nature [refers to the creative environment + their choices and partnerships that sustain luxury brands.] - Creative figures, like Tom Ford for Gucci, enhance the brand's creative system, supporting the CEO's vision while strengthening partnerships and quality. - Successful transformations require time, with both management and shareholders aligned to provide the necessary resources. 3. **Means**: - Means are the operational components that turn strategic choices into reality through consistency, control, and confidence. - **Consistency**: Achieving credibility by ensuring that all aspects (products, stores, messaging) align with the brand's positioning. - **Control**: Ensures delivery of the brand's complex value propositions, as shown by Louis Vuitton's Direct-Operated Stores (DOS). - **Confidence**: A luxury mindset that encourages risk-taking, exemplified by Breitling's recent innovations in product design and retail. In essence, successful luxury transformations leverage these three components---essence, nature, and means---to maintain and enhance the brand's unique luxury identity. **Additional Elements for Comprehensive Understanding** **Self-Study Questions** - To reinforce these principles, consider questions that challenge the application of these concepts: - How do luxury brands like Hermès or Chanel maintain control over their brand image and customer experience? - In what ways do luxury firms like Rolex ensure consistency across diverse markets? - How does a luxury firm build and sustain customer confidence in its products and brand heritage?

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