Hair Dressing and Beautification Level III Past Paper PDF November 2022
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Uploaded by SimplestJadeite
2022
CST
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Summary
This is a past paper for a Hair Dressing and Beautification Level III course from November 2022, focusing on acrylic nail enhancement. The paper includes details about preparing for a service, relevant legislation, client needs, and maintenance.
Full Transcript
Hair Dressing and beutification Level III Based on November 2022, Version- 1 Module Title: Apply Acrylic Nail Enhancement Module Code: CST HDB3 M08 0622 Nominal duration: 50 hours Prepared By: D...
Hair Dressing and beutification Level III Based on November 2022, Version- 1 Module Title: Apply Acrylic Nail Enhancement Module Code: CST HDB3 M08 0622 Nominal duration: 50 hours Prepared By: December, 2023 Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 2 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Table of Contents Table of Contents.............................................................................................................................................................................. 3 List of Figures................................................................................................................................................................................. 5 Acronyms.......................................................................................................................................................................................... 6 Introduction to the Module............................................................................................................................................................... 7 1. UNIT ONE: PREPARE FOR AN ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENT SERVICE....................................9 1.1 INTRODUCTIONS TO NAIL SERVICES........................................................................................................... 10 1.1.1 What are Nail Enhancements?............................................................................................................... 10 1.1.2 Provide nail enhancement services........................................................................................................ 11 1.1.3 Reasons for the client wanting the nail enhancement service................................................................ 12 1.2 PREPARE SERVICE AREA, CLIENT AND SELF FOR AN ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENT SERVICE...................... 12 1.2.1 Prepare for nail enhancements services................................................................................................ 12 1.2.2 Working area......................................................................................................................................... 13 1.3 RELEVANT LEGISLATION AND CODES AND WORKPLACE POLICIES AND PROCEDURES.................................. 14 1.3.1 Health & Safety Policy.......................................................................................................................... 14 1.3.2 Fire........................................................................................................................................................ 14 1.3.3 Smoking................................................................................................................................................. 15 1.3.4 Electrical safety..................................................................................................................................... 15 1.3.5 First Aid................................................................................................................................................. 15 1.3.6 COSHH – The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations 2002..................................... 15 1.3.7 Eight steps to COSHH........................................................................................................................... 16 1.4 CLIENT NEEDS AND EXPECTATIONS............................................................................................................. 17 1.5 PROVIDE ADVICE AND RECOMMENDATIONS FOR A TREATMENT PLAN......................................................... 18 1.6 MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS AND ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF VARIOUS STYLES OF ACRYLIC NAILS. 19 1.6.1 Maintenance requirements of acrylic nails............................................................................................ 19 1.6.2 Advantages and disadvantages of various styles of acrylic nails.......................................................... 20 1.6.3 Disadvantages of Acrylic Nails.............................................................................................................. 21 1.7 NAIL CONDITIONS AND SPECIFIC ACRYLIC NAIL TREATMENT COMPLICATIONS........................................... 22 1.7.1 Nail conditions....................................................................................................................................... 22 1.7.2 Acrylic nail treatment complications..................................................................................................... 22 1.8 AREAS OF NAILS REQUIRING SPECIAL TREATMENT ARE NOTED................................................................... 23 1.8.1 Structure of Nail.................................................................................................................................... 23 1.9 CONTRAINDICATIONS ARE IDENTIFIED AND EXPLAINED AND CLIENT IS REFERRED TO AN APPROPRIATE PROFESSIONAL WHERE REQUIRED............................................................................................................................ 25 1.10 ACRYLIC NAIL PRODUCTS........................................................................................................................... 27 Self-check-1................................................................................................................................................................ 29 2. UNIT TWO: REMOVE ARTIFICIAL NAILS.............................................................................................. 31 2.1 ARTIFICIAL NAIL REMOVAL PRODUCTS AND EQUIPMENT............................................................................ 31 2.1.1 Artificial nail removal............................................................................................................................ 31 2.2 PROVIDE ADVICE AND RECOMMENDATIONS FOR A NAIL REMOVAL TREATMENT PLAN................................ 32 2.2.1 Advice and recommendations for a nail removal.................................................................................. 32 2.2.2 Treatment plan....................................................................................................................................... 34 2.3 NAIL MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS AND POST-REMOVAL CARE............................................................... 35 2.3.1 Maintenance Procedures....................................................................................................................... 35 Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 3 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 2.3.2 Trouble-shooting acrylic nails............................................................................................................... 40 2.4 THE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF VARIOUS TYPES OF ARTIFICIAL NAILS................................... 40 2.5 PROCEDURE FOR ARTIFICIAL NAILS REMOVAL ACCORDING TO MANUFACTURER INSTRUCTIONS AND SAFETY DATA. 41 Self-Check 2................................................................................................................................................................ 42 3. UNIT THREE: APPLY OR REFILL ARTIFICIAL NAILS....................................................................... 44 3.1 ACRYLIC NAIL PRODUCTS AND EQUIPMENT................................................................................................ 44 3.1.1 Acrylic nail equipment........................................................................................................................... 44 3.1.2 Following manufacturer’s instructions with regard to equipment and product use.............................. 45 3.2 PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT FOR CLIENT AND SELF........................................................................ 46 3.2.1 Personal Protective Equipment (PPE).................................................................................................. 46 3.3 ACRYLIC NAILS APPLICATION, REFILLING OR MENDING.............................................................................. 47 3.3.1 Types of Artificial Nail Applications...................................................................................................... 47 3.3.2 Acrylic Nail Application........................................................................................................................ 49 3.4 CLIENT REQUIREMENTS, RELEVANT LEGISLATION, AND WORKPLACE POLICIES AND PROCEDURES............. 55 3.4.1 Applicable rules and legislation for health and safety at workplace..................................................... 55 3.5 WORKPLACE ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL PROCEDURES TO SAFELY DISPOSE OF TREATMENT WASTE......... 55 3.5.1 Sterilization, disinfection and sanitization............................................................................................. 55 3.5.2 Waste disposal....................................................................................................................................... 57 SELF CHECK 3.......................................................................................................................................................... 59 4. UNIT FOUR: PRE AND POST TREATMENT........................................................................................... 61 4.1 CLIENT FEEDBACK AND RELEVANT OUTCOMES OF TREATMENT ARE RECORDED......................................... 61 4.1.1 Ways to collect feedback from your clients............................................................................................ 61 4.1.2 Client record card.................................................................................................................................. 62 4.2 TREATMENT PLAN IS REVISED AS REQUIRED............................................................................................... 62 4.2.1 Review and update your documentation................................................................................................ 63 4.3 MAINTENANCE ADVICE AND PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS...................................................................... 63 4.4 REBOOKING................................................................................................................................................ 65 Self-check- 4............................................................................................................................................................... 66 OPERATION SHEET............................................................................................................................................... 67 LAP TEST.................................................................................................................................................................. 69 REFERENCE............................................................................................................................................................ 70 DEVELOPERS PROFILE....................................................................................................................................... 71 Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 4 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 List of Figures Figure 1.7-1 Nail Conditions __________________________________________________________ 22 Figure 1.8-1 Structure of Nail __________________________________________________________ 24 Figure 2.3-1 Types of Maintenance Treatment _____________________________________________ 36 Figure 2.3-2 powder and liquid Infill ____________________________________________________ 38 Figure 2.3-3 Powder and Liquid Rebalance _______________________________________________ 39 Figure 3.1-1 Acrylic Nail equipment‘s ___________________________________________________ 44 Figure 3.2-1 Personal Protective Equipment's _____________________________________________ 46 Figure 3.3-1 Fabric Wrap _____________________________________________________________ 47 Figure 3.3-2 Nail wrap _______________________________________________________________ 47 Figure 3.3-3 Paper Wrap ______________________________________________________________ 48 Figure 3.3-4 Fiber Glass Wrap _________________________________________________________ 48 Figure 3.3-5 Artificial Nail Tips ________________________________________________________ 49 Figure 3.3-6 Nail Polish Remover (Acetone) ______________________________________________ 51 Figure 3.3-7 Nail Glue _______________________________________________________________ 52 Figure 3.3-8 proper way to remove powder using liquid and brush _____________________________ 54 Figure 3.5-1 waste in Hair salon ________________________________________________________ 57 Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 5 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Acronyms TVT––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––Technical Vocational Training LAP––––––––––––––––––––––––––––------ Learning Activity Performance UV––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Ultra violet COSHH––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Control of Substances Hazardous to Health MSDS)–––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Material Safety Data Sheets HASAWA–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Health and Safety at Work Act PPE–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––Personal Protective Equipment ACD–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Allergic contact dermatitis LED–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––.. Light-emitting diode Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 6 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Introduction to the Module In hair dressing and beautification field, you will learn how to create beautiful nail art. You will grasp the skills to use paints, foiling, glitters to create masterpieces on your client‘s nails. You will learn to follow a strict procedure to remove acrylic nails without harming the nails. Also, you will acquire the skills to properly take out the extensions, UV gel, and other used products. This module design to meet the industry requirement under the hair dressing and beatification occupational standard particularly for the unit of competence acrylic nail Enhancement. This module covers the units: 1. Prepare for an acrylic nail enhancement service. 2. Remove artificial nails. 3. Apply or refill artificial nails. 4. Review treatment and provide post-treatment advice. Learning Objectives of the Module At the end of this session, the students will able to: 1. Prepare Service area, client and self for an acrylic nail enhancement service 2. Identify nail conditions and specific acrylic nail treatment complications 3. Understand style of acrylic nail application and finished nail shape 4. Identify Artificial nail removal products and equipment 5. Know the advantages and disadvantages of various types of artificial nails. 6. Recognize Acrylic nail products and equipment 7. Follow acrylic nails application, refilling or mending procedures 8. Give client a feedback and record relevant outcomes of treatment. 9. Rebook client according to agreed treatment plan Module Learning Instructions: 1. Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide. 2. Follow the instructions described below. 3. Read the information written in the information Sheets 4. Accomplish the Self-check 5. Undertake the Operation Sheet 6. Do the LAP test Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 7 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Unit One: Prepare for an acrylic nail enhancement service This learning unit is developed to provide the trainees the necessary information regarding the following r content coverage and topics: 1. Prepare Service area, client and self for an acrylic nail enhancement service 2. Relevant legislation and codes and workplace policies and procedures. 3. Client needs and expectations 4. Provide advice and recommendations for a treatment plan. 5. Maintenance requirements and advantages and disadvantages of various styles of acrylic nails. 6. Nail conditions and specific acrylic nail treatment complications 7. Areas of nails requiring special treatment are noted. 8. Contraindications are identified and explained and client is referred to an appropriate professional where required. 9. Style of acrylic nail application and finished nail shape. 10. Acrylic nail products This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the above. Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to: Understand Nail Enhancement services Identify relevant workplace policies, procedures, legislation and codes Identify client needs and expectations Provide advice and recommendations for a treatment plan. Understand the advantages and disadvantages of various styles of acrylic nails. Analyze nail conditions and specific acrylic nail treatment complications Know the Contraindications and refer to an appropriate professional where required. Identify style of acrylic nail application and finished nail shape. Know Acrylic nail products 1. Unit One: Prepare for an acrylic nail enhancement service It is no longer sufficient for a manicurist simply to be able to carry out a manicure and a pedicure treatment. Modern technology has put within her reach a vast array of products and techniques which may be used to carry out permanent or semi-permanent repairs and extensions to broken, damaged, bitten or short nails. It is the duty of a manicurist to be competent to provide these for her client, immediately and on request. Such a manicurist is now more accurately known as a 'nail technician' - one who uses current advances in modern technology to provide the best possible nail service for her client. Nail extensions fall within two main categories: temporary and permanent. Temporary Extensions: These are pre-formed complete nail covers which are designed to last from one to fourteen days, depending on the type of adhesive used. Permanent' Extensions: These are built up and extended from the client's natural nail. They were originally designed for permanent and continuous wear, partly because of the difficulty of their removal! Improvements in products mean that many of the 'permanent' nails can now be removed at any time with no damage to the natural nail beneath. In order to wear these nails for any length of time, they need salon maintenance treatments every two weeks to deal with problems associated with the area of natural nail growth at their base. These nails fall into three main categories: The Three Main Systems In Use There are three mains ‗systems‘ that the industry is familiar with – acrylic, UV gel and fiberglass – but the names that are now in common usage are inaccurate and can be misleading. The inaccuracy of the names of the systems is unimportant as they are widely accepted and understood, but an understanding of the underlying chemistry will show the discrepancies. The three main systems have several derivatives that confuse the situation even more, but the different systems refer more to application methods than the system components and chemistry. We can briefly look at each of them. Acrylic: This system uses a liquid monomer and a powder polymer that, when mixed together, form a solid. This should more accurately be called liquid and powder. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 9 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 UV gel: This system uses a gel that is supplied as a ‗pre-mixed‘ product and forms a solid when exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. Fiberglass: This system utilizes the additional strength of a fiber mesh – that can be man-made fiberglass or natural silk or cotton – together with a resin that hardens. 1.1 Introductions to Nail Services 1.1.1 What are Nail Enhancements? Beauty is not just about the hair and face, but also the nails and other parts of the body. There are many women who have a problem with growing their nails to a fashionable length due to various reasons. This may include brittle nails, working conditions, lifestyle, or inability to overcome their habit of biting their nails. Whatever the reason, long nails remain an envy for many. However, to help and overcome this, and to enjoy the beauty of long nails, Nail Technicians have been able to provide the Client with the beautiful nails their desire. A Nail Enhancement is basically an artificial nail that is fixed on top of the natural nail which is then overlaid with a choice of products, as listed below. As the Natural Nail is constantly growing, the Nail Enhancement will then need to be maintained on a fortnightly basis. There are varied Nail Enhancement options:- Liquid & Powder (otherwise referred to as Acrylic) UV Gel Fiberglass/Silk Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 10 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 1.1.2 Provide nail enhancement services Service: positioning of nail technician and client; use of products, tools and equipment to suit client; ways of adapting service to suit client; maintenance of nail enhancements (infill, rebalance, reposition of white tip product, replacement of overlay, repair of overlay); removal of nail enhancements (manual, chemical); complete new set; avoidance of contra-actions eg softening and damage to nail plate, product reactions, adhesion failure, fungal/bacterial infection; complete service to client‘s satisfaction; contra-actions and response; record and evaluate results (methods of evaluating results eg ask for client feedback) Nail enhancement systems: types (liquid and powder, UV gel, wraps); chemical process involved Effective client consultation helps to determine the correct treatment plan to suit the client‘s needs and identify possible contra-indications or restrictions to the service. It is important that accurate records are made at the time and stored securely for future reference. Client records can be stored electronically or filed manually and should be updated at every visit. If record cards are not updated and do not contain a history of services and dates, the salon‘s insurance may be invalid in the event of a claim. Record cards should be kept for three years as medical claims can be made up to a period of three years after the service. If a client is under 18 years of age, it is recommended that their record card be kept until they are 21. Client confidentiality must be protected at all times. If a salon holds computerized records, the salon owner must register with the Information Commissioner under the terms of the Data Protection Act. If a salon only holds written records, this does not apply, but they must uphold the principles of the Data Protection Act and comply with the following: o All information must be stored securely, i.e. password-protected computer files or authorized access to paper records. o Information recorded must be accurate and necessary to the service or treatment being performed. o Individual client records must be available for the client to view if requested Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 11 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 1.1.3 Reasons for the client wanting the nail enhancement service To make their hands look more attractive To aid the client to stop biting their natural nails To match broken nails For a special occasion (wedding, function) For a holiday Client is unable to grow their own nails To strengthen a weak nail To mend a tear in a nail so that it does not break To keep up to date with fashion To enhance a damaged nail To increase the length of their nails To improve their confidence For a photographic session 1.2 Prepare Service area, client and self for an acrylic nail enhancement service 1.2.1 Prepare for nail enhancements services Preparation: of therapist (personal hygiene/presentation, protective attire); of client (protective attire, removal of jewelry); salon requirements Preparation of work area: environmental conditions eg. Heating, lighting, ventilation, atmosphere; salon requirements. Client consultation: consultation techniques (questioning, visual, manual, reference to client records); treatment objectives; nail and skin analysis; contraindications eg. Thin peeling nails, tinea ungium, paronychia, allergies, severe eczema and psoriasis, bleeding, cuts and abrasions, bruising and swelling, recent scar tissue, severe onychophagy, recent injuries to the area; clear recommendations; client confidentiality Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 12 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Products: acetone; non-acetone varnish remover; nail sterilizer; cuticle oil; hand sanitizer; tips (resin, resin activator, adhesive); acrylics (acrylic powder, acrylic liquid, primer); gels (gels, gel activators, primer, adhesive); selection of nail polishes Tools and equipment: brushes; nail forms; dappen dishes; fiberglass mesh; scissors; lint free manicure squares; workstation; lined waste bin with lid; plastic eye protection glasses; orange sticks; client record card; towels; lamp; cotton buds; bowls; tip cutters; coarse file; medium files; fine file; 4 sided buffer Nail and skin conditions: nail conditions (soft, coarse, ridged, and discolored); skin conditions (pterygium, hangnails, dry cuticles, and soft cuticles) 1.2.2 Working area Starting with the general environment, we need to think about what sort of area is needed for a nail technician to work in, what is required within the salon and what problems need addressing that are specific to artificial nails. Ensuring that your work space and tools are sanitized prior to performing a nail service on a client is imperative. Disinfect all hard surfaces and replace any used terry towels or paper rolls that you use to protect hard surfaces. Sterilize all tools and if your files are not able to be sanitized, change them. The Process 1. Sterilize your and your client‘s hands with an antibacterial hand wash or soap and warm water. If your client is wearing nail polish, now is the time to remove it. 2. Soften cuticles and dead skin surrounding them by applying cuticle oil or remover. Then use a clean cuticle pusher or knife to carefully push back eponychium and remove any dead skin from the surrounding area. 3. Removing nail shine from the nail plate also helps maximize adhesion. Use a white block or a grit cushioned board and buff nail plate in an up-and-down motion over nails. 4. Soak a lint-free pad or gauze pad with PH Plus and use it to thoroughly cleanse the nail plate and surrounding areas. Because PH Plus is made to raise the PH level of your nail Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 13 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 and to absorb any excess oil, pay close attention to the cuticle and nail beds– areas that tend to harbor oils and bacteria. 5. At this time, begin prepping your tools for the next stage. Because the nail absorbed the PH Plus and became slightly enlarged, the nail needs just a few minutes to dehydrate again and return back to its natural shape and size. 1.3 Relevant legislation and codes and workplace policies and procedures. 1.3.1 Health & Safety Policy It is the legal responsibility of each person to protect and promote the health and safety of themselves and fellow employees at work. This is an equal responsibility between management and employees. It is the duty of management to make all employees aware of the health and safety issues and any possible risk to both the general public and members of staff. It is the duty of every employee to ensure that all safety issues are adhered to in order to minimize any possible risk. All salons should display a Health & Safety poster and have trained all staff in the Health & Safety procedures for the business. It is a legal requirement when employing five or more staff to have a written Health & Safety Policy. The Health & Safety Policy of any company should be reviewed on a regular basis and amendments incorporated in the light of any new legislation, new equipment or guidance issued. The application and implementation of the Health & Safety Policy should be monitored and re- assessed at regular intervals. 1.3.2 Fire Appropriate fire extinguishers should be situated in the proper places to provide protection for those working in that area. These should be maintained and serviced by an approved contractor. All members of staff should be trained in the correct use of this equipment and it should be checked and re-assessed at regular intervals. Fire exits should be clearly defined and should be kept clear at all times. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 14 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 1.3.3 Smoking In some countries, the salon should be a no smoking area. Smoking should only be permitted in a designated Smoking Area that may be provided. Where this is the case, non-smokers must be protected from tobacco smoke. All members of staff who smoke should wash their hands before returning to their duties. 1.3.4 Electrical safety All staff should be fully trained in the use of any electrical equipment. If any fault is discovered, cease use immediately, label as faulty, then report to a Manager or appropriate person and complete the relevant Incident Form. All equipment must be tested regularly. 1.3.5 First Aid Most salons will be low risk working environments. However, there will be a need for a first aid kit that complies with the Health and Safety (First Aid) Regulations. 1.3.6 COSHH – The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations 2002 Under the COSHH Regulations, employers have to ensure their workers are aware of the risks associated with all equipment and chemicals in their workplace. Products should not be used in the workplace until staff have received appropriate training. Even if you are self-employed you should conduct risk assessments to protect yourself and others (e.g. clients) who may be affected by your work activities. Using chemicals or other hazardous substances at work could put people‘s health at risk. By law, workers have to control exposure to substances to protect both workers and others who may be exposed. Failure to do so can result in prosecution. Hazardous substances are anything used in the workplace that can harm your health if they are not properly controlled e.g. using a product without adequate ventilation. For the purposes of the above Regulations hazardous substances include: – Chemicals labelled as harmful, irritant, toxic, very toxic, or corrosive; – Substances with occupational exposure limits; Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 15 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 – Biological agents e.g. bacteria and other micro-organisms; – Dust of any kind in a concentration specified in COSHH; and – Any other substance which has comparable hazards to people‘s health. Hence, workers may be exposed to hazardous substances that are: – Used directly in work activities e.g. nail adhesives, nail product removers, cleaning agents; – Generated during work activities e.g. fumes, vapors and dust; – Naturally occurring e.g. tetanus and legionella causing bacteria. Employers must carry out a suitable and sufficient assessment of the risks to the health of workers created by work with hazardous substances. As many cosmetic products are exempt from warning label requirements, the first step in carrying out a COSHH assessment will be to obtain Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for all products to which employees or others are liable to be exposed as a result of work activities. It is essential that MSDS are obtained from suppliers, which will be supplied free of charge. MSDS sheets will provide all the safety and emergency procedure information and precautions for a product. If a harmful substance is decanted into a separate container, it should be appropriately labelled. 1.3.7 Eight steps to COSHH 1. Identify all the hazardous products in use. Check product labels to be absolutely sure and obtain MSDS sheets. 2. Decide what precautions need to be taken before starting work with these substances. 3. Prevent people being exposed to hazardous substances, but where this is not possible, control exposure. 4. Make sure that safety procedures are followed and that control measures are maintained. 5. If required, monitor exposure of workers to hazardous substances. 6. Carry out health surveillance where the assessment has shown that this is necessary or if COSHH makes specific requirements. 7. If required, prepare plans and procedures to deal with accidents, incidents and emergencies. 8. Make sure that workers are properly informed, trained and supervised. A copy of any COSHH assessments must be available at the premises. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 16 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 The recommendations of the data sheets concerning the use, handling, storage and transport of hazardous chemicals must be followed, in particular by the provision of appropriate personal protective equipment and the means of dealing with accidental contact, ingestion or spillage. Workers must be made aware of the contents of the data sheets, the harmful effects of the chemicals and the precautions to be taken. 1.4 Client needs and expectations Many clients bring pictures of nail designs that they have found on social media to the nail desk and want us to recreate the exact nails from the photograph. While to some techs, having an image to work from is a safety blanket, many dread being presented with this. Each nail tech has a different skill level and has their own niche. Some techs enjoy liquid & powder color blocking, others prefer gel painting. Both produce different effects. When an image is presented to them to copy, it may not be their style of work or preference of mediums. Effective client consultation helps to determine the correct treatment plan to suit the client‘s needs and identify possible contra-indications or restrictions to the service. It is important that accurate records are made at the time and stored securely for future reference. Client records can be stored electronically or filed manually and should be updated at every visit. If record cards are not updated and do not contain a history of services and dates, the salon‘s insurance may be invalid in the event of a claim. Record cards should be kept for three years as medical claims can be made up to a period of three years after the service. If a client is under 18 years of age, it is recommended that their record card be kept until they are 21. Client confidentiality must be protected at all times. If a salon holds computerized records, the salon owner must register with the Information Commissioner under the terms of the Data Protection Act. If a salon only holds written records, this does not apply, but they must uphold the principles of the Data Protection Act and comply with the following: – All information must be stored securely, i.e. password-protected computer files or authorized access to paper records. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 17 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 – Information recorded must be accurate and necessary to the service or treatment being performed. – Individual client records must be available for the client to view if requested 1.5 Provide advice and recommendations for a treatment plan. Before commencing application, you must assess the client‘s nails in order to decide the suitability of the client for the treatment and to decide which service is most suitable for the client. Various points should be taken into consideration: Previous damage Nail condition Cuticle condition Cost involved Natural nail shape Medical history Lifestyle: some clients do not have the spare time required to return to the salon for maintenance of their nail enhancements. Others will not take care and continue to use the nails as tools and not protect their hands and nails. Occupation: certain occupations are not compatible with nail enhancements, for example a landscape gardener. Other clients may wear the nail enhancements for too long without allowing their nails to have a rest. This would result in over exposure to the chemicals used within the nail enhancement treatments. If the nails are damaged, you should allow the nails to repair themselves before going ahead with the treatment. If the client insists that the treatment proceeds and you wish to do so, then you must make a note on the record card, which the client signs to protect yourself from any subsequent problems arising from weak or damaged nails. Damage to the nails from previous nail enhancements - if the client suffers from weak or damaged nails, you should consider this when deciding on client suitability for the treatment. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 18 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 For example: Some clients may be unable to avoid causing damage to their own nails by constantly picking at the nail enhancements resulting in damage. An important part of the nail enhancement service is the assessment. This enables the nail technician to decide what treatments and products are suitable for the client and decide on a treatment plan. 1.6 Maintenance requirements and advantages and disadvantages of various styles of acrylic nails. 1.6.1 Maintenance requirements of acrylic nails. Acrylic nails are a fashion trend that is here to stay. And just like other nails, they require proper care. However, due to their unmatched strength and durability, most people think they do not need to be taken care of. Knowing how to take care of your acrylic nails will keep them in good shape for longer while protecting your natural nails. And today, I unveil the secret to wearing acrylic nails long-term. Choose the Right Length That Suits Your Lifestyle We all do different chores daily, and what works for someone else may not suit your lifestyle. For instance, if your job is rough on your hands, long nails won't be an excellent pick. Nails that extend 1.3cm past your natural nails are prone to chipping and breakage and should be avoided if your daily chores are demanding. Wear Waterproof Gloves When Working Water weakens your acrylic nails, making them loose. When doing your house chores, wearing waterproof gloves helps keep them dry and prevent them from chipping. Keep Your Nails Moisturized with Oil When acrylic nails are not moisturized frequently, they become rigid and stiff. This increases their chances of breaking. Applying two drops of nail oil twice or thrice a day can help make them more flexible. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 19 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Keep Your Nails Clean Dirt and bacteria may find their way to your nails, which can damage them when not washed well. Use warm water with mild soap to clean them. Scrub with a soft, brittle nail brush on top, and under your acrylic nails to remove dirt, and bacteria that may be trapped. Dry your nails to prevent fungus and bacteria from growing with a soft towel. Always avoid warm air dryers. Apply a skin moisturizer to soothe the skin and cuticles. Get a Retouch Every Two to Three Weeks Acrylic nails need to be retouched every 2 to 3 weeks to keep them looking great. Visit your nail technician for professional touch-ups. Remove Your Acrylic Nails after Three Weeks After every three weeks, you need to visit your technician to remove your nails. Never try to remove your nails even when they seem to be loose, as this may weaken your natural nails. After removing your acrylic nails, wait for a week before applying new acrylics or gel polish. Get your natural nails filled, trimmed and treated to prevent bacteria from growing. Moisturize the cuticles, skin and nails to keep them healthy and strong. Wrapping Up Maintaining your acrylic nails should not be hard if you implement all the above tips. However, to make your nails serve you longer, you need to book an appointment with an experienced nail technician. 1.6.2 Advantages and disadvantages of various styles of acrylic nails Advantages of Acrylic Nails They're Durable One of the biggest benefits of acrylic nails is that they are very durable. They can last up to six weeks without chipping or peeling, which is much longer than natural nails. Additionally, acrylic nails are less likely to break than natural nails, so they can be a good option for people who have weak or brittle nails. They're Affordable Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 20 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Another benefit of acrylic nails is that they are relatively affordable. While the initial cost of getting them done may be higher than other types of manicures, they will last much longer, so you won't have to get them done as often. Additionally, there are many different styles and colors of acrylic nails available, so you can find a look that suits your taste and budget. They're Relatively Low Maintenance Acrylic nails are also low maintenance. Unlike natural nails, they don't require regular polishing or touch-ups. Additionally, acrylic nails don't require any special care or cleaning products, so they're easy to take care of. They Look Great Acrylic nails also look great. They can give your hands a polished and sophisticated look, and there are many different styles and colors to choose from. Whether you want a natural look or something flashier, you can find an acrylic nail style that suits you. They're Customizable Another benefit of acrylic nails is that they are highly customizable. You can choose the shape, size, color, and style of your nails to create a unique look that reflects your personality. 1.6.3 Disadvantages of Acrylic Nails They Can Damage Your Nails One of the biggest disadvantages of acrylic nails is that they can damage your natural nails. Acrylic nails are applied with a strong adhesive, which can cause your natural nails to become weak and brittle. Additionally, the acrylic itself can be harsh on your nails, causing them to become dry and damaged. If you wear acrylic nails regularly, you may notice that your natural nails become yellow and discolored. They’re Not Very Natural-Looking While there are many different types of fake nails on the market, acrylics tend to look the least natural. Acrylics are made from a plastic material, which can give them a bright, artificial appearance. If you‘re looking for fake nails that look more natural, you may want to consider options such as gel or silk nails. They May Cause Allergic Reactions Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 21 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Finally, it‘s important to note that some people may experience allergic reactions to the chemicals used in acrylic nails. If you notice any redness, swelling, or itching after having your acrylics applied, it‘s important to remove them immediately and consult a doctor. 1.7 Nail conditions and specific acrylic nail treatment complications 1.7.1 Nail conditions Weak nails: they are soft, they get split and peel off easily. When they break, they tear and leave a jagged edge. This, usually, happens when a person cleans dishes or keeps one‘s hands in water for a long time. The nails absorb the water, thereby, expanding the nail bed. When the water dries out, the nails contract. The constant expanding and contracting eventually weakens the nails. Brittle nails: they snap and are hard to bend. They tend to crack easily. A common reason for such a condition is the lack of moisture in nails as opposed to weak nails that have too much moisture content. Ridged nails: are characterized by the appearance of vertical and horizontal ridges in fingernails, which are mainly due to nutritional deficiency (Fig. 3.13). Vertical lines on nails are common. These often get severe with age as nails retain more moisture with aging. Horizontal ridges are more likely to signal a problem. Beau‘s lines is a condition characterized by indentations across the nail bed and is a sign of disrupted nail growth due to illness. Overgrown cuticles: Cuticles grow at a fast pace and may cover a major portion of the nail, making it prone to bacterial infections, hangnails, split cuticles and other problems. Figure 1.7-1 Nail Conditions 1.7.2 Acrylic nail treatment complications There are several reasons that make the nail unit difficult to treat. It is necessary to wait for several months before seeing the results of treatments in nail disorders, as the nail plate grows Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 22 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 very slowly (average nail growth is 3 mm/month in fingernails and 1–1.5 mm/month in toenails). It is very important to give the patients this information, as they may otherwise discontinue the treatment feeling it to be ineffective. Delivery of topical drugs through the nail is difficult, as vehicles utilized for enhancing penetration of drugs through the skin are not effective in the nail. Most topical drugs are therefore ineffective in the treatment of inflammatory nail disorders, since the nails are largely exposed to environmental hazards and nail disorders are commonly precipitated or worsened by physical traumas. Thus, clinicians often do not prescribe systemic treatment when the disease is limited only to the nails. 1.8 Areas of nails requiring special treatment are noted. 1.8.1 Structure of Nail Nails are flat horny structure and their function is to protect the extremities of fingers and toes. They are similar in structure to the epidermis and hair, being formed by cells containing keratin. Nails are thus made up of hard and horny compact keratinized dead cells. Nails arise from a fold of the skin. The lower portion forms the matrix and the upper portion is the nail wall. The matrix is the portion in which the nail germinates and contains the nerve and blood supply. The cells grow forward and are horny. A white crescent shape is visible at the base of the nail and is known as the lunular which is pink in color. This color is due to the reflection of light at the junction of the matrix and nail bed. The intensity of the color is dependent on the health of the individual. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 23 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Figure 1.8-1 Structure of Nail The manicurists must appreciate their limitations in the treatment of nail conditions. At most she/he should be able to recognize, but may not be able to treat them. Their job is to see that all their instruments, etc. are kept sterilized in order to prevent rather than cure diseases. Let us study some of common diseases of nails. 1. Paronychia is the inflammation of tissues surrounding the nail plate. The commonest causes are harsh unskilled treatments by an untrained person during manicures and pedicure. 2. Onychauxis is thickening of the nail. It becomes rough and irregular. The nail lacks luster and is dirty yellow in color, but retains its normal shape. 3. Onchorrexis these can be hereditary, the result of eczema or psoriasis or, in some cases due to defective circulation. 4. Leukonychia or white markings on the nails. It is considered to be the result of wrong manicuring. 5. Beau‘s lines are tansverse ridges and associated with pathological conditions, infectious diseases or nervous shock, frost bite, illness and high temperature. When the health of the Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 24 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 client improves and the nail grows upwards, the ridges move towards the free edge and disappear. Some common disorders of nails which can be easily addressed in the parlor: 1. Dry and brittle nails 2. Blue nails 3. Yellowish nails 4. White patches 5. Thin and weak nails 6. Spoon shaped nails due to prolonged illness 7. Ridges on nails 8. Split nails and cuticles Treatment Take nutritious food rich in calcium. Avoid regular use of nail paint and enamel removers. Regular manicure and pedicure. Daily massage of nails with good moisturizing cream. Regular use of cuticle oil. Regular cleaning and filing of nail. 1.9 Contraindications are identified and explained and client is referred to an appropriate professional where required. A contraindication is something that prevents you from receiving a treatment as it may make the condition worse. Please take a look at the contraindications listed for your treatment. If you believe that you may have one of the contraindications please contact me before booking. Contra-indications that prevent a manicure or pedicure treatment: Fungal Infections. These type of infections spread very rapidly and often thrive in damp areas and can appear soft and spongy. For example: athlete‘s foot (ringworm of the foot) ringworm of the hand. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 25 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Bacterial Infections. This type of infection is usually characterized by swelling, tenderness and redness in the area. For example: paronychia, whitlows, onychia. Infectious diseases Scabies Swelling of hands or feet Redness (erythema) Severe eczema or psoriasis Undiagnosed lumps and swelling Broken sore skin Contagious disease Contra-indications that may restrict a manicure or pedicure treatment: Viral Infections. These infections are very common and treatment can be adapted by using a waterproof dressing and avoiding the area. For example: Verruca vulgaris (common warts), verruca plantaris (verruca of the foot). Onycholysis. This is a disorder where the nail separates from the nail bed Onychocryptosis (ingrowing nails) Split nails, brittle nails Extremely badly bitten nails Blue nails Nails which bear damage from Beau‘s Line Acrylic nails. Splinter hemorrhages Cuts/Abrasions/Bruising Pits and grooves Recent scar tissue (3-6months Flaking and breaking nails old) Bruised nails Operations of the hands or feet Eggshell nails Broken bones Corrugations (or wavy ridges) Furrows (depressions) White Spots Koilonychias (spoon nails) Claw Nails Discolored nails Extremely weak and soft nails Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 26 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Doctor‘s note is required for: o Diabetes o Hemophilia o Odema o Arthritis o Acute rheumatism o Warfin Medication Style of acrylic nail application and finished nail shape. 1.10 Acrylic nail products Nail Products Several nail cosmetic products exist on the market. However, the most studied products include nail polish, artificial nails, and nail polish remover. The safety of these and other products, as well as the occupational exposure to these products are discussed below. Nail polish: Nail polish is one of the primary forms of nail beautification. Also known as nail varnish, enamel, or lacquer, nail polish has three main types. The first is the basecoat, which serves the purpose of creating a smooth and uniform layer upon which the pigmented nail polish may be applied. The second is the pigmented nail polish, itself. The third is the after coat, which is applied on top of the pigmented nail polish to provide fortification against chipping as well as an added sheen. A variety of adverse effects have been noted due to nail polish use. The use of nail polish has been linked to yellow-orange discoloration of the superficial nail The most studied adverse effect, however, is allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) due to the different components of the enamel. Artificial nails: are often used to extend the length of a person‘s original nail or for longer- lasting adornment of the nails. Many types of artificial nails exists. A whole or the tip of a preformed plastic nail may be glued to the existing nail, either in a salon or at home with a kit. They may be removed with nail polish or nail glue remover. Another category of artificial nails is sculptured nails, which includes acrylic nails and photo bonded gel nails. Acrylic nails use a combination of a powdered polymer and a monomer liquid which are mixed upon the nail plate and then allowed to polymerize and harden. Natural light and an organic accelerator such as benzoyl peroxide may help facilitate this reaction. In the process of hardening, these nails may be sculptured into the desired length or shape. The monomer used in this reaction is usually a methacrylate monomer. Gel nails : are a newer fashion trend whereby the gel nail varnish is applied like normal nail polish, but then is allowed to polymerize through photo bonding under a light source, usually ultraviolet (UV). Gel nails may require the application of several layers of colored or glossy layers, each layer needing to be polymerized under the UV light. The lights used for nail curing now come in two varieties: UV lamps and light-emitting diode (LED) lamps. UV lamps are still more used than LED light, which tends to be more expensive. With regards to artificial nails, the main documented adverse effect has been allergic contact dermatitis, particularly to methacrylate monomers Nail polish remover: is often an organic solvent with added scents and colors. The classic and most recognized remover is acetone. More recently, acetone-free liquids have been commercialized which largely consist of gamma-butyrolactone. Ethyl acetate may be another organic solvent used for removal of nail polish. Nail polish removers may come in different presentations: from a bottled liquid requiring cotton balls or pads for application, to pre-submerged pads, to liquid infused into a foam in which one inserts their finger to clean their nail. The major health risk associated with nail polish and nail glue removers seems to be due to ingestion of the substances. Ingestion of acetone may cause lethargy, confusion, and decreased arousebility for several hours; serious health effects and death are unlikely due to acetone. Similar but more serious toxicity due to acetone-free nail polish remover has been reported. Other Nail Products: Adverse effects with other nail cosmetics have been reported as well. Accidental ingestion of nail primer has been recorded in children, leading to corrosive effects on the skin as well as extensive burning and ulceration throughout the gastrointestinal tract Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 28 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Nail hardeners have been linked to Anemia of chronic disease, often due to reactions to chemicals similar to those found in nail varnish. Nail wrapping: Nail wraps are a material, often silk or linen, laid down upon the natural nail plate in order to strengthen it. Once the wrap is laid down, nail polish is applied above it to conceal the wrap and to allow for beautification of the nail. Self-check-1 Part one: answer the following question 1. What are the three main system in use related to artificial nail service? 2. What can be the reason for customer to apply nail enhancement service? 3. List down the client consultation techniques. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 29 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Unit TWO: Remove artificial nails This learning unit is developed to provide the trainees the necessary information regarding the following content coverage and topics: Artificial nail removal products and equipment Provide advice and recommendations for a removal treatment plan. Nail maintenance requirements and post-removal care. The advantages and disadvantages of various types of artificial nails. Procedure for Artificial nails removal according to manufacturer instructions and safety data. This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the above. Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to: Recognize Artificial nail removal products and equipment Provide advice and recommendations for a removal treatment plan. Know Nail maintenance requirements and post-removal care. Understand the advantages and disadvantages of various types of artificial nails. Follow the Procedure for Artificial nails removal according to manufacturer instructions and safety data. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 30 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 2. Unit two: Remove artificial nails Artificial nails, also known as fake nails, false nails, acrylic nails, nail extensions or nail enhancements, are extensions placed over fingernails as fashion accessories. Many artificial nail designs attempt to mimic the appearance of real fingernails as closely as possible, while others may deliberately stray in favor of an artistic look. Artificial nails require regular upkeep; it is recommended that they are attended to, on average, every two weeks, however they may last over one month. Nonetheless, their versatility in terms of shape, size, design and comparatively high durability are some advantages they hold over other types of manicures. 2.1 Artificial nail removal products and equipment 2.1.1 Artificial nail removal A final explanation of the chemistry of artificial nails is their removal. The most commonly used method of removal is to soak the nails in acetone or some other solvent. The solvent does not dissolve the overlay but breaks down the bonds between polymer chains. The stronger the bonds, the more difficult it is to break them down. Using a solvent in the various systems, the cyanoacrylate resin in the fiberglass system has the weakest bonds as there are no cross-links in the structure. UV gel is usually the most difficult to remove, as the bonds are exceptionally strong. There are many gels that cannot be removed with solvents and the only way is to buff them off. When the nails are soaked in the solvent, the bonds break down and the structure becomes soft. While in the solvent, the overlay can be scraped off quite easily. If the nails are removed from the solvent before this is done, the softened acrylic immediately becomes hard again. In order to imagine what happens to the acrylic in the solvent, imagine putting paper in water (those with children may have had to fish out a roll of toilet paper from the lavatory in the past!). The paper becomes very soft and liable to break up, it is still, however, paper and does not dissolve in the water. When the paper is removed from the water and dries out, it may feel a little harder and the separate sheets may have molded together, but it is still paper. This is very similar to the effect that acetone has on acrylic. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 31 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 The Use of Acetone There have been some worries about using acetone to remove acrylic nails. All solvents are classed as hazardous chemicals and all chemicals, even water, are hazardous if care is not taken in their use and storage. Over-use of any hazardous chemical is a danger, but sensible use should not be a problem. Continually soaking skin in acetone, or any other solvent, could cause health problems, but there should be no need to continually remove artificial nails. Usually, the only reasons to remove artificial nails are if a problem with the natural nail or skin is suspected or if clients decided that they no longer want or need them. Correctly maintained artificial nails do not need to be removed. Occasional removal by soaking in acetone or similar solvent is not a problem, as long as the correct procedures are followed, and the used solvents are disposed of carefully. 2.2 Provide advice and recommendations for a nail removal treatment plan. 2.2.1 Advice and recommendations for a nail removal It may occur that a client decides that she doesn‘t want acrylic nails anymore. What do you do? Always advice your client to have them removed by a professional. It often occurs that the client tries to bite or pull off the nails. This can result in pulling off part of the natural nail, or even pulling the entire nail away from the nail bed. (Onycholyse) It is often said that nail extensions are bad for the natural nail, (―look how thin my nails have become!‖) but if a nail stylist works professionally, uses the right products and knowledge and if she removes the extensions in a professional way, the nails will not be thinner, weaker or worse than before. 1) Using File, make the extensions as short as possible. (never shorter than the natural nail) 2) Using File make the nail thinner. 3) Apply Dissolve Brush Cleaner ore Acetone to a nail wipe and secure it on the nail, using tin-foil 4) Allow about 20 to 30 minutes for the Dissolve Brush Cleaner to be absorbed. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 32 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 5) Remove the tin-foil and the nail wipe one at the time, because as soon as the acrylic comes in contact with the air, it will start to harden again. 4. You will notice that the acrylic has become very soft (rubber-like) and now can be easily but carefully removed with your Pro-Pusher. 5. If the client want to have a new set of Acrylic Nails, you can apply it now. 6. If the client don‘t want to have a new set of Acrylic you will give her a proper Manicure 7. (Note: Acetone is incredibly flammable, so don‘t microwave it—just run the bottle under warm water for a few minutes.) Alternatively you can advise this steps to remove the artificial nail Carefully clip off your excess acrylics, cutting them as close as possible to your real nails. Using a nail buffer, rough up the surface of the polish until the shine is completely gone. Removing the top layer helps the polish soften faster in the acetone. Pour 100 percent pure acetone into a tray or bowl and soak your nails in it for five minutes. With a metal cuticle pusher, gently push the polish off your nails, pushing from your cuticles downward. Soak your nails for five minutes, then gently push again. Repeat until your acrylics have completely soaked off. Buff off the rest of the smaller pieces with your nail buffer. Massage cuticle oil into your nails to rehydrate them, then buff it into your nails with the soft side of a buffer. Finish with another layer of cuticle oil. When should acrylic nails be removed? Your acrylic nails should be removed after four weeks max, but this depends on how fast your nails grow. ―Your natural nails grow out regardless of how long your acrylics last, and you‘ll start to see growth at your cuticle beds after two weeks,‖ nail artist Rita de Alencar Pinto previously told Cosmo. So even if you top your acrylics with gel nail polish and don't notice any chipping, the growth will still make your nails more susceptible to breaking, cracking, and snapping off, which you don't need me to tell you is painful AF and can damage your real nails. What to do with natural nails after acrylic removal? Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 33 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 After you remove your acrylics, your natural nails will likely be quite brittle and dry, so you'll want to give them from TLC. Layer on a nail strengthener every day for a week to keep your nails from breaking and smooth out any ridges, then brush a cuticle oil or serum around your nail beds to keep them soft and moisturized. You should also consider taking a break from acrylics, gel polish, press-on nails, and even regular polish to give your nails some time to recover, especially if you notice any discoloration, cracking, splitting, or breaking. An important part of the nail enhancement service is the assessment. This enables the nail technician to decide what treatments and products are suitable for the client and decide on a treatment plan. 2.2.2 Treatment plan Acrylic nail enhancement client treatment plan client name: date: patch test result: client lifestyle: gardening manual skills caring for own children business sports employment employment condition of skin on hands - description good poor natural nail plate shape flat nail c-curve nail arch nail ski jump nail condition of the nails good bittern split or torn long short uneven any irregularities or contraindications identified: acrylic enhancement services forms over tips or natural nails rebalance enhancement crack repair removal bitten tip nail polish colour chosen: client comments: rebook client and ongoing treatment plan: home care maintenance advice: Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 34 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 2.3 Nail maintenance requirements and post-removal care. 2.3.1 Maintenance Procedures Every client is a ‗full-set‘ client once; after that, they become a maintenance client or a natural nail client. Skillful maintenance is as important as skillful application and will keep clients returning on a regular basis. This chapter explores in depth the value and techniques of a regular maintenance program and examines the most common diseases and disorders the technician may have to deal with. Value of Maintenance: During training, maintenance is one of the most useful learning aids and it must never be dismissed or skipped over. Many hours can be spent on learning application skills, but every client is different, and every set of circumstances is different. A trainee technician will learn nothing if they do not see the results of their application a few weeks later. The preparation of the nail may have been incomplete; the client may have a nail plate that is oilier than expected; the ratio of the product may have been wrong; the shape that looked good two weeks ago may now look horrible. Need for regular maintenance: The appearance of an outgrown artificial nail is one consideration, but there are two more important reasons for regular maintenance treatments: 1. The technician will have explained to the client that they must watch out for any changes to the nail, and return immediately if anything is noticed. However, it is possible that there may be very slight changes that the client has not noticed, especially if colored varnish has been worn. There may be some lifting of the overlay that is not very obvious. There may be a slight reaction to the products. There may be some minor nail separation owing to thin or dehydrated nail plates that was not evident before. It is important that the technician keeps a close watch on the health of the nails and skin as they should be aware of things to look for that may not be so obvious to the untrained eye. 2. After a period of natural nail growth, the structure that was created during application with the two curves (upper arch and ‗C‘ curve) meeting at the apex or stress point of the nail to Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 35 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 create the strongest nail possible will have moved. The apex will have moved further away from the nail bed and could be on the free edge. This will unbalance the nail and make it susceptible to breakages. The smile line that was created either by the tip application or by a white tip overlay will also have moved and there will be a band of natural nail growth that will be a different color to the tip. Maintenance treatments: It is not recommended, under any circumstances, to maintain a set of nails that has not been applied either by yourself or the salon where you work. No technician can be sure of the procedures followed by another technician and the preparation may not have been as thorough as it should have been. There may be a problem that the nail is hiding. The products used previously may not be compatible with the ones you use. If a there is an infection of some kind already under the overlay that is not yet obvious, when it does become apparent you may be blamed. Either suggest the client returns to their original technician for maintenance or, preferably, explain why you cannot provide a maintenance treatment and suggest that the nails are removed, and a new set applied by you. Then you can be sure of the health of the natural nail and have confidence in the products used. Types of maintenance treatments One, called an ‗infill‘, is a short treatment that allows the technician to check for any problems and fill in the small area of growth to make the artificial nail look smooth without a ridge at the base. The other is called a ‗rebalance‘, as it removes the apex that has moved to the wrong place and replaces it in the right place, it fills the regrowth area at the base and, if required, will put the smile line back to where it should be and cover the band of natural nail growth. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 36 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Figure 2.3-1 Types of Maintenance Treatment The decision as to which treatment is needed should depend on the rate of nail growth. If growth is slow to average, it is likely that an ‗infill‘ will be required two weeks after the first application and a ‗rebalance‘ two weeks after that. These treatments can then be alternated. If nail growth is average to fast, then a full rebalance may be needed every two–three weeks. Every client is different, but the general rule is two weeks between treatments. This must be shorter for a nail biter, who must be seen at one-week intervals for several weeks. Some clients may settle down to a treatment every three– four weeks if they have slow nail growth and are used to having long nails. What has changed after 2 to 3 weeks? A. There is no acrylic near the cuticle. B. The nails have grown. (Become longer) C. The shape has changed, because of the growth of the design. (The arch has moved up) D. The smile line might no longer be in place. Procedure for infills Deal with one hand at a time for liquid and powder or a fiber system and two hands for a UV- cured system. 1. Have the desk prepared and all tools, equipment and products ready plus the record card completed with notes from the consultation at the start of the appointment. 2. Sanitize hands. 3. Sanitize and dehydrate nails with appropriate product on a nail wipe or cotton wool by wiping the whole nail from the tip towards the nail fold. 4. With cuticle tool, remove any cuticle that is on the newly grown nail. 5. Using a 240-grit file, gently blend the edge of the overlay in Zone 3 (2). This will also remove the shine. If there is any lifting of the overlay in this area it will need to be buffed away, carefully and without over buffing the nail plate. This can sometimes be time consuming as more overlay can lift as it is being thinned out. There is no real safe short cut to this process. Many technicians use some short cuts such as nipping with cuticle nippers (this can lift away overlay that is bonded to the nail and take some nail plate with it) or getting adhesive to run under lifting area (This could trap any bacteria that may be Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 37 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 present) or using a solvent in the expectation that it will deal with any bacteria or fungus (the solvent can get trapped and the area will still be unattached). 6. The shine should be removed from the whole nail surface. 7. Remove the dust with the dehydrator, taking care to clean around the side walls and nail fold, and apply primer if required. 8. Apply a thin layer of the product (liquid and powder, UV gel or resin) in Zone 3 as in the original application and blend it to the rest of the nail. 9. With a 240-grit file, shape the overlay as in the first application, checking from all angles that the structure of curves is right. 10. Refine surface with white block. 11. Finish with a three-way buffer or high-gloss sealant (after removing all traces of dust). 12. Apply oil. Figure 2.3-2 powder and liquid Infill Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 38 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Procedure for a rebalance Follow steps 1–4 as above (1). 1. Shorten the length of the nail to the length and shape that was originally agreed. 2. Thin out the whole overlay, removing the apex so that the remaining overlay is a thin and even coating. Ensure that the tip of the free edge is very thin as, by shortening the length, the free edge will be thicker than the original tip and this will need thinning. (As the overlay is old, a harsher abrasive may be used to speed up the process, but care must be taken that the exposed natural nail is not buffed, and the overlay is not buffed down to the nail plate by mistake.) 3. Clean nails with the dehydrator to remove all the dust and prepare the exposed nail. Prime if required. 4. Apply a new overlay in exactly the same way as the original overlay was applied. (If it is a fiber system and the original fiber has not been disturbed, it is not necessary to apply the fiber to the whole nail as it will get too thick as time goes on. A small piece of fiber placed in Zone 3 will be sufficient.) 5. Shape, refine and bring to a high shine as usual. Figure 2.3-3 Powder and Liquid Rebalance Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 39 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 2.3.2 Trouble-shooting acrylic nails Acrylic peel/lift - Acrylic on surrounding skin or cuticle cause lifting. - The nail plate is not clean, remove the ptyerguim. - Use Primer sparingly. - Pregnancy or medication can cause lifting on a client who previously has had no such problem. - Never give a client a manicure/pedicure before Acrylic application. Cracking - Acrylic not applied thickly enough. Skin irritation - Acrylic applied on the cuticle area. - Too much Monomer at the cuticle area (work to wet) Avoid skin contact as much as possible. Breaking nails - Acrylic nails are too thin at the stress area. - If u are using a tip, is there enough glue on the tip? Is the glue separating from the tip, and placing stress on the nail? Is the product separating from the nail? - If so pay attention to the primer application. Do not get primer on the tip! White Spots - If you have white spots in the Pink part of the nail (nail plate) then you use to less Q- Monomer. You work to dry!! Try to add more Q Monomer to your brush, take a ball of Acrylic and wait till all the powder is completely wet. Then apply it to the nail. 2.4 The advantages and disadvantages of various types of artificial nails. Advantages: 1. Classy and Beautiful looks; Nail Extensions in Gurgaon will give your nails a perfect Aesthetic look, also nail extension will help you in hiding the imperfection of your nails by giving them a perfect look there is no doubt that. Just like the natural nails, these Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 40 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 extensions have the same edges and points. Your nails will be more attractive and smooth just don‘t ask for the polishing and buffing before the application of nail polish. To create stunning nail art nail extensions either tip or form creates a marvelous black base. 2. Protection for natural nails; many people think that nails extensions pose health threats but nails extensions are used to protect the brittle nail prone to breaking and splitting you will be surprised to know that nails extensions. Do you know you broke and split nails will become infected and if they are covered with the nice and quality nail extensions they will be protected? Disadvantages: 1. At the same time, it is said that nail extensions are applied improperly or used at the same time with unhygienic glue and then tools, with this it can become infected and cause health issues to your nails and nails beds. You increase the chance of risk of getting your nails infection There are the chances that fungal infection may occur in-between natural and artificial nails and they usually go unnoticed and are transferred to other items, people and the food you touch and eat. Poorly or incorrectly applied for nail extension also avert the natural nail growth and harms the nail that may be dangerous in the long term. 2. The look and feel of nail extensions are often unpleasant for some people in the beginning. When you first touch or reach any surface the nail extensions may create a strange sensation. With time the wearer gets used to it but, for the majority of the people performing everyday tasks with extension is somehow difficult and troublesome. 2.5 Procedure for Artificial nails removal according to manufacturer instructions and safety data. A final explanation of the chemistry of artificial nails is their removal. The most commonly used method of removal is to soak the nails in acetone or some other solvent. The solvent does not dissolve the overlay but breaks down the bonds between polymer chains. The stronger the bonds, the more difficult it is to break them down. Using a solvent in the various systems, the cyanoacrylate resin in the fiberglass system has the weakest bonds as there are no cross-links in the structure. UV gel is usually the most difficult to Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 41 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 remove, as the bonds are exceptionally strong. There are many gels that cannot be removed with solvents and the only way is to buff them off. When the nails are soaked in the solvent, the bonds break down and the structure becomes soft. While in the solvent, the overlay can be scraped off quite easily. If the nails are removed from the solvent before this is done, the softened acrylic immediately becomes hard again. In order to imagine what happens to the acrylic in the solvent, imagine putting paper in water (those with children may have had to fish out a roll of toilet paper from the lavatory in the past!). The paper becomes very soft and liable to break up, it is still, however, paper and does not dissolve in the water. When the paper is removed from the water and dries out, it may feel a little harder and the separate sheets may have molded together, but it is still paper. This is very similar to the effect that acetone has on acrylic. Self-Check 2 Part I: Fill in the blank space 1. Artificial nails are extensions placed ____________ as fashion accessories. 2. __________ is usually the most difficult to remove, as the bonds are exceptionally strong. 3. The most commonly used method of removal nail is to ________ in ___________. Part II: give short answers 1. When should acrylic nails be removed? 2. What are the two types of nail maintenance treatments? 3. What are the advantages of Acrylic nail? 4. What are the disadvantage of Acrylic nail? Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 42 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Unit three: Apply or refill artificial nails This learning unit is developed to provide the trainees the necessary information regarding the following content coverage and topics: Acrylic nail products and equipment Personal protective equipment for client and self Acrylic nails application, refilling or mending Client requirements, relevant legislation, and workplace policies and procedures. Workplace environmental control procedures to safely dispose of treatment waste. Evaluation in Finished result. This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the above. Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to: Know Acrylic nail products and equipment Recognize acrylic nail Personal protective equipment for client and self Follow procedure for Acrylic nails application, refilling or mending Know Client requirements, relevant legislation, and workplace policies and procedures. Distinguish workplace environmental control procedures to safely dispose of treatment waste. Evaluate finished result against treatment plan. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 43 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 3. Unit three: Apply or refill artificial nails 3.1 Acrylic nail products and equipment 3.1.1 Acrylic nail equipment Figure 3.1-1 Acrylic Nail equipment’s Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 44 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 3.1.2 Following manufacturer’s instructions with regard to equipment and product use In order to get best results, we must follow the manufacturer‘s instructions that accompany all tools, equipment‘s and materials used in the salon. Manufacturer‘s instructions refers to the guidance issued by the manufacturer or supplier with regard to safe and efficient use of tools, equipment or product. You must always follow the manufacturer‘s instructions given on products and equipment. Instructions are usually printed on the side of the product/equipment or in an accompanying leaflet. Failure to follow instructions can result in risks of injury or illness due to misuse or the product or equipment not working properly. It is important to read instructional guides provided by manufacturers in order to understand how to best use product features. Manufacturer instructions contain specific details about the product that are not readily available anywhere else. Manuals and guides inform consumers about product specifications and assembly instructions. Consumers can find answers in the product instructions should any problems arise. If a consumer damages a product and did not follow the instructions, the product warranty may become invalid, which causes unnecessary replacement costs for the organization. Correct use of equipment ensures a safe and healthy working environment and also minimizes waste. The key thing about a manufacturer‘s instructions is that they are specific to a certain piece of equipment. All salons will have their own individual policies in place and it is your responsibility to follow them, so make sure you know what your salon‘s policies are. All salons will require employees to follow basic rules, like reading and following manufacturer‘s instructions. If this rule is not followed, treatments could go wrong, resulting in loss of clients and the salon‘s good reputation. Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 45 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 3.2 Personal protective equipment for client and self 3.2.1 Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) It relates to equipment used during services to reduce the likelihood of an injury. The salon risk assessment should have first explored ways of reducing risk, for example, by changing procedures so PPE is not necessary. Gloves should be used when decanting larger sized containers of potentially hazardous products into smaller, purpose built containers. Gloves may also be worn during services for nail professionals to protect against inadvertent skin contact with potentially hazardous products. Gloves must be worn if recommended in manufacturers‘ Material Safety Data Sheets. Non- latex (synthetic), powder free gloves are recommended to avoid allergic reactions. Safety glasses should be worn during any service where a risk from a chemical splash or a risk of flying debris may be present (e.g. applying tip adhesive, working with sculpting monomers, clipping nails). Safety glasses should be made of a scratch-resistant, solvent- resistant material that provides front and side protection. A pair should be made available for the client at their discretion. Everyday spectacles are not a suitable substitute. Dust masks help protect against direct inhalation of some larger dust particles created when filing nail enhancements. However, these may become clogged quickly and their true effectiveness still remains in question. Dust masks are completely ineffective against vapor inhalation. Figure 3.2-1 Personal Protective Equipment's Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 46 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Nail technicians should wear Personal Protective Equipment (P.P.E) - in this case being disposable gloves if any cuts are present or when handling chemicals. A protective mask may be worn if a large amount of dust is being created. Safety glasses should be offered to the client to protect against flying debris or chemicals. Nail technicians may choose to wear safety glasses to protect their eyes when cutting the nail tips to size or when handling chemicals. 3.3 Acrylic nails application, refilling or mending 3.3.1 Types of Artificial Nail Applications 1. Acrylic: Powdered polymer and liquid monomer are mixed together. o The powder and liquid react to form a plastic paste. o This paste is formed onto the nail or nail tip. o The paste cures, or hardens, at room temperature. 2. Gel: There are several different kinds of gels that use: – layers of different resins – layers of a single resin o These premixed layers of resin are applied to the nail and combine to form a solid nail. o Light is used to harden all types of gel: – The original formulas were hardened with ultraviolet light. – Newer formulas harden under ordinary room lighting (called white light). 3. Wraps: Any method of securing a layer of fabric or paper on and around the nail tip to ensure its strength and durability is called a nail wrap. Nail wraps are one type of overlay that can be used over nail tips. Nail wraps are also used to repair or strengthen natural nails or to create nail extensions. Nail wrap resin is used to coat and secure fabric wraps to the natural nail and nail tip. Wrap resins are made from cyanoacrylate, a specialized acrylic monomer that has excellent Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 47 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Figure 3.3-2 Nail wrap Figure 3.3-1 Fabric Wrap adhesion to the natural nail plate and polymerizes in seconds. Fabric wrap is a nail wrap made of silk, linen, or fiberglass. Fabric wraps are the most popular type of nail wrap because of their durability. Fabric wraps are cut to cover the surface of the natural nail and the nail tip and are laid onto a layer of wrap resin to build and strengthen the enhancement. Fabric wraps may be purchased in swatches, rolls, or in packages of pre-cut pieces, some with and some without adhesive backing. The wrap material is the heart of a nail wrap system and gives this system its unique properties. Nail wraps can be used as an overlay to strengthen natural nails or to strengthen a nail tip application. Silk wraps are made from a thin natural material with a tight weave that becomes transparent when wrap resin is applied. A silk wrap is lightweight and has a smooth appearance when applied to the nail. Linen wraps are made from a closely woven, heavy material. It is much thicker and bulkier than other types of wrap fabrics. Nail adhesives do not penetrate linen as easily as silk or fiberglass. Because it is opaque, even after wrap resin is applied, a colored polish must be used to cover it completely. Linen is used because it is considered to be the strongest wrap fabric. Fiberglass wraps are made from a very thin synthetic mesh with a loose weave. The loose weave makes it easy to use and allows the wrap resin to penetrate, which improves adhesion. Even though fiberglass is not as strong as linen or silk, it can create a durable nail enhancement. Figure 3.3-4 Fiber Glass Wrap Figure 3.3-3 Paper Wrap Author/Copyright Module title Training module Version -1 Page 48 of 71 Acrylic Nail December , 2023 Paper wraps are temporary nail wraps made of very thin paper. Some clients and cosmetologists prefer to use a paper wrap. Paper was one of the very first materials used to create wraps. They are quite simple to use, but they do not have the strength and durability of fabric wraps. For this reason, paper wraps are considered a temporary service and need to be completely replaced each time your client comes in for maintenance. 4. Tips: Nails can be extended by applying plastic nail tips of vary
