Mitre Saw Notes.pdf

Advanced Machining Mitre Saws  Chopsaw is for metal work – Mitre saw is for woodworking  The more moving parts a saw has the less accurate it will be o o o o      Mitre saw makes angled cuts Compound mitre saw makes angled and beveled cuts Sliding compound mitre saw will cut as above but with...

Advanced Machining Mitre Saws  Chopsaw is for metal work – Mitre saw is for woodworking  The more moving parts a saw has the less accurate it will be o o o o      Mitre saw makes angled cuts Compound mitre saw makes angled and beveled cuts Sliding compound mitre saw will cut as above but with increased capacity while keeping blade size manageable Dual compound sliding mitre saw will cut bevels both left and right Most are now sliding or gliding saws, saw head is on a track/arm When using the slide it should be pulled all the way forward before plunging the saw down into the work and pushing all the way back towards the fence o Good face should be down for best result Best form is to cut with your part standing up against the fence o Less creep  Lateral movement of piece o Less room for error – more accurate o Less taxing on the saw o Cleaner cut o Saw has less capacity this way, though  May have no choice but to lay the piece down on the table Common features o Extending supports for stock  Very important to make sure that long parts are properly supported o Presets for common angles - 90°, 45°, 22.5° o Handle for portability o Blade guard o Arbor lock o Wrench/Allen key for blade changing o Dust bag or vacuum attachment o Holes for mounting the saw to a surface o Depth stop Motor location is important o Size can interfere with capacity o Belt driven saw is better  Less vibration  Increased capacity  Double bevel     Never retract the blade while it is still turning and touching your part o This can cause a small off-cut to be shot out  Can hurt and cause damage  Can also damage your part o Can also “double-cut” your part, causing error Make sure any off-cuts are out of the way before setting your part down o Can cause the blade to bind and kickback o Sawdust build-up can cause the same thing Your part must always be touching the fence to the immediate left and right of the sawblade as well as on the table o Kickback is more than likely Cutting small pieces can be dangerous o Using a sacrificial fence is a good idea  Nothing slippery or your part will creep into the balde  Eliminates the loss of small parts o Making a zero clearance insert is also a good idea  Use the one from the manufacturer to create one out of solid wood or Baltic birch Cutting Crown Moulding      Often larger moulding, hollow along back when installed Make a box jig for the saw that will hold the moulding at its installation angle When cutting mitres, the crown needs to be cut upside down with moulding face up Supporting long lengths is critical for an accurate cut Backing up a small moulding will prevent tear-out Creating Clean Mitres    Thick kerf blade o Neutral or negative hook angle o Fine toothed (the more the better) o Good quality blade o Sharp Stand piece up rather than flat o Good face and edge up Hold piece tight o Less creep     Proper support for long pieces Sacrificial fence in place or a box jig Slow consistent cut speed Well-tuned saw Never cross your arms when operating a mitre saw and tuck in your thumbs!