The Basics of Jewelry by Stuller PDF

The Basics of Jewelry by Stuller TERMINOLOGY AND DESIGN GUIDE  The Basics of Jewelry by Stuller TERMINOLOGY AND DESIGN GUIDE Stuller.com Phone 337 262 7700 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayet te, L A 70508 USA  Table of Contents 9 Rings 23 E...

The Basics of Jewelry by Stuller TERMINOLOGY AND DESIGN GUIDE  The Basics of Jewelry by Stuller TERMINOLOGY AND DESIGN GUIDE Stuller.com Phone 337 262 7700 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayet te, L A 70508 USA  Table of Contents 9 Rings 23 Earrings 29 Neckwear 39 Men's, Pins, Brooches 40 Bracelets 45 Diamonds and Gemstones 57 Jewelry Attributes 64 Glossary 76 Reference Tables The Basics of Jewelry by Stuller Published by Stuller, Inc. ©2012 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 USA Phone 337 262 7700 Stuller.com Your customers are demanding more these days, and as you’ve come to expect over the last 42 years, we’re responding to help you meet those demands. Choose/Change/Create™ gives you more choices, more flexibility, and more ways to make designs your own. It’s the kind of thing you’ve been doing for years – now we’re making it easier.  CHOOSE From a vast selection of items online or in our catalogs. CHANGE Elements to customize your selection. CR E ATE One-of-a-kind jewelry with CounterSketch® Studio or CAD.  RINGS 9 The Anatomy of a Ring 10 Shank Styles 11 Ring Profiles 12 Ring Styles 14 Bridal Sets 15 Ring Size Reference 16 Prong Styles 17 Setting Styles THE ANATOMY OF A RING Head Gallery Center Stone Side Stone Prong Shoulder RINGS | The Anatomy of a Ring Gallery Accent Stone Rail/Bearing Bridge Shank Hallmark/Engraving Sizing Area Top/Looking Down View Through Finger View Side View stuller.com | 9 SHANK STYLES Traditional Euro-Style Straight Tapered Reverse Tapered Pinched Flair Bypass Split Freeform Cathedral 10 | stuller.com RING PROFILES Outside Shank Profile Height/ Thickness RINGS | Shank Styles and Ring Profiles Width Inside OOUTSIDE PROFILESO Flat Half-Round Knife-Edge Half-Round Edge OINSIDE PROFILESO Light Comfort-Fit Comfort-Fit Heavy Comfort-Fit Scooped stuller.com | 11 RING STYLES Fashion Halo 3-Stone Promise Semi-Mount Award/Signet 12 | stuller.com  Engagement RINGS | Ring Styles Solitaire Bridal Set (Engagement Ring and Wedding Band ) Wedding Band Anniversary Band Eternity Band stuller.com | 13 BRIDAL SETS SHADOW BAND/NOTCHED BAND A shadow band is masterfully crafted to shadow the engagement ring. The band is customized to perfectly accent the engagement ring so that no gap can be seen. STR AIGHT BAND A straight band is designed to complement and sit next to the engagement ring. One advantage of a straight band is that it can be worn independently from the engagement ring. A straight band can fit flush against the engagement ring. However, if the engagement ring has a center setting that prevents the band from sitting flush, a gap can be seen between the ring and band. Straight Flush Straight With Gap 14 | stuller.com RING SIZE REFERENCE Option 1: Place your ring over the circles, matching the inside edge Inside of the ring to the nearest in size. Diameter If the ring falls between two sizes, select the larger size. Size 3 Size 3 1⁄2 Size 4 Size 4 1⁄2 Size 5 Size 5 1⁄2 Size 6 14mm 14.4mm 14.8mm 15.2mm 15.6mm 16mm 16.45mm RINGS | Bridal Sets and Ring Size Reference Size 6 1⁄2 Size 7 Size 71⁄2 Size 8 Size 8 1⁄2 Size 9 16.9mm 17.3mm 17.7mm 18.2mm 18.6mm 19mm Size 9 1⁄2 Size 10 Size 10 1⁄2 Size 11 Size 111⁄2 19.4mm 19.8mm 20.2mm 20.6mm 21mm Size 12 Size 12 1⁄2 Size 13 Size 13 1⁄2 21.4mm 21.8mm 22.2mm 22.6mm Option 2: Copy this page. Cut out the ring size chart and then cut a slit for slot “A”. Wrap the ring size chart around your finger with the numbers facing outward. Insert “B” through slot “A” until it fits snugly around the finger where the ring will be worn. The number aligned along the slit is your ring size. If the measurement occurs between two numbers, your size is a half size. For example, if it falls between 7 and 8 then your ring size is 71⁄2. 31⁄2 inches stuller.com | 15 PRONG STYLES OPRONG TYPESO Single Double Triple V-Prong/Chevron Decorative Double OPRONG COUNTO Four (Standard) Six Two (Vertical) Four (Diagonal) Eight Two (Horizontal) 16 | stuller.com SETTING STYLES Basket Peg Head Decorative RINGS | Prong Styles and Setting Styles Bezel Half-Bezel Bar/Channel Bright-Cut Bridge Accent Illusion Channel Trellis stuller.com | 17 SETTING STYLES Channel Bead and Bright-Cut/Pinpoint Surface Prong Shared Prong Bar 18 | stuller.com Scallop Fishtail RINGS | Setting Styles Pavé Bezel Gypsy/Flush stuller.com | 19  EARRINGS 23 Earring Styles 25 Earring Components EARRING STYLES Stud EARRINGS | Earring Styles Cluster Jackets (with studs) Drop Dangle stuller.com | 23 EARRING STYLES Chandelier Hoops Hinged/Huggie Ear Trim 24 | stuller.com EARRING COMPONENTS Friction Post/Tension Back Friction Post/Clutch Back EARRINGS | Earring Styles and Earring Components Threaded Post/Threaded Back Protektor™ Post/Back Omega Clip Clip On Lever Back Hinged Earwire Earwire/Shepherds Hook stuller.com | 25  NECKWEAR 29 Neckwear Styles 30 Bail Styles 31 Pendant Styles 32 Chain Styles 34 Clasp Assembly 35 Clasp Styles NECKWEAR STYLES NECKWEAR | Neckwear Styles Riviera Chain Pendant Station Lariat stuller.com | 29 NECKWEAR STYLES Collar Choker OBAIL STYLES O Standard Rabbit Ear Decorative 30 | stuller.com PENDANT STYLES NECKWEAR | Neckwear Styles, Bail Styles and Pendant Styles Pendant with Bail Solitaire Slide Hidden Bail Locket Roundel/Rondelle stuller.com | 31 CHAIN STYLES Anchor Byzantine Bead/Ball Box Cable Cascade Cocoon Curb Figaro Foxtail Herringbone 32 | stuller.com  Leather Cord Omega Popcorn Rolo NECKWEAR | Chain Styles Rope Serpentine Snake Snake with Bead Singapore Spiral Wheat/Palma stuller.com | 33 CLASP ASSEMBLY Chain Ends Chain Tags Clasps Jump Rings 14” 16” 18” 20” 24” 30” 34 | stuller.com CLASP STYLES Spring Ring Lobster Claw Bayonet NECKWEAR | Clasp Assembly and Clasp Styles Barrel Open Box Figure 8 Safety Toggle S-Hook Mystery Magnetic Pearl Bracelet Catch stuller.com | 35  OTHER TYPES OF JEWELRY 39 Men's 39 Brooches/Pins 40 Bracelet Assembly 41 Bracelet Styles MEN'S OTHER TYPES OF JEWELRY | Men's, Pins, and Brooches Cuff Links Tie Tack Money Clip OBROOCH AND LAPEL PINO Lapel Pin Brooch Pin Assembly (Also known as stem and catch, or pinch and joint) stuller.com | 39 BRACELET ASSEMBLY Charm Bracelet Slide Beads 40 | stuller.com  OTHER TYPES OF JEWELRY | Bracelet Assembly and Bracelet Styles stuller.com | 41 Link Bangle Cuff BRACELET STYLES Line/Tennis  DIA MONDS A ND GEMSTONES 45 The Anatomy of a Diamond 45 Ideal Cut 46 The 4 Cs 48 Stone Shapes 50 Stone Cuts 52 Diamond Size Chart THE ANATOMY OF A DIAMOND Diameter Table Crown DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES | The Anatomy of a Diamond Girdle Depth Pavilion Culet OAMERICAN GEMOLOGICAL SOCIETY (AGS ®)O IDEAL CUT 100% 52.4% - 57.5% 33.7° - 35.8° 14.2% - 16.2% 42.2% - 43.8% Culet 98.5° stuller.com | 45 THE 4 Cs OGEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (GIA®)O DIAMOND GRADING C OLOR One factor that determines the value of a diamond is its color. With the exception of fancy-colored diamonds, the most valuable diamonds are those with the least color. Although many people think of gem quality diamonds as colorless, completely colorless diamonds are very rare. The diamond color scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). A diamond's color is determined by a manual process of comparing the diamond to a master set. Each letter grade represents a range of color and is a measurement of how noticeable a color is. When diamonds are formed with traces of other minerals, rare and beautiful colors can result. These “fancy” colors range from blue and brilliant yellow to red, brown, pale green, pink, and violet. Because of their rarity, colored diamonds are highly desirable and typically more valuable. Color Grading Scale D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z+ nearly faint colorless very light yellow light yellow fancy colorless yellow C L ARIT Y A diamond’s clarity is measured by the existence or absence of visible flaws. Tiny surface blemishes or internal inclusions, even those seen only under magnification, can alter the brilliance of the diamond and thus affect its value. Clarity levels begin with flawless (FL, IF), followed by very, very slight (VVS1, VVS2), very slight (VS1, VS2), slightly included (SI1, SI2), and included (I1, I2, and I3). Clarity Grading Scale FL VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI 2 I1 I2 I3 flawless very, very very slightly slightly imperfect, no blemishes slightly included included included eye visible | visible under magnification only | | eye visible | 46 | stuller.com C UT While cut does include shape, in terms of the 4 Cs it refers to the proportions of the cut. A diamond’s cut grade is an objective measure of a diamond’s light performance, or the amount of sparkle a diamond has. A diamond’s overall proportions, as well as the size and position of its facets, make up the cut. The consistency and balance of these can greatly affect how the stone captures light and reflects it back to the eye. When a diamond is cut with the proper proportions, light enters the diamond and DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES | The 4 Cs is returned through the top of the diamond. If a diamond is too shallow, light will escape from the bottom of the stone. If it is cut too deep, light will escape out the sides. Studies have been conducted to find the optimum proportions of a diamond’s cut so that it has the greatest amount of sparkle. If its cut falls within these parameters, it is considered an ideal cut. Diamonds with fine proportions, symmetry and polish optimize their interaction with light and have increased brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation. shallow ideal deep C AR AT Carat refers to a diamond's weight. One carat, the traditional unit of measurement for diamonds, is approximately 0.2 grams. You may also hear the weight of a diamond referred to in points. One carat is equivalent to 100 points, so a 75-point diamond is equal to 0.75 carats. Because they are rarer, larger diamonds have greater value per carat, so the price of a diamond rises exponentially to its size. (Refer to diamond size chart, page 52). stuller.com | 47 STONE SHAPES Round Oval Cushion Square Cushion Pear Marquise Square/Princess Octagonal Asscher/Square Emerald Emerald 48 | stuller.com  Radiant Square Radiant DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES | Stone Shapes Heart Trilliant/Trillion Shield/Calf Half-Moon Straight Baguette Tapered Baguette Trapezoid stuller.com | 49 STONE CUTS Side Crown Pavilion Brilliant Side Crown Pavilion Old European Side Crown Pavilion Old Mine Side Crown Pavilion Checkerboard Crown Crown Table Point 50 | stuller.com  Side Crown Pavilion Step DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES | Stone Cuts Side Crown Pavilion Eight Side Crown Pavilion Old Single Crown Crown Rose Briolette Crown Crown Cabochon Bullet Master gem cutters, mathematicians, scientists, and jewelers have been developing unique and proprietary cuts to draw the beauty out of gemstone material. Some gem cuts are created to maximize the sparkle, while other gem cuts are created to draw the viewer into the gemstone. stuller.com | 51 DIAMOND SIZE CHART Diamonds illustrated to scale carat weight 1 ⁄4 1 ⁄2 3 ⁄4 1.00 11⁄4 11⁄2 13⁄4 2.00 21⁄4 2 ROUND 10 5 mm: 4.1 5.2 5.9 6.5 7.0 7.4 7.8 8.2 8.6 8 SQUARE 10 5 mm: 3.0 4.35 4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 7.75 8 10 OVAL 5 mm: 5x3 6x4 6.5x4.5 7x5 7.5x5.5 8x6 8.25x6.25 8.5x6.5 8.75x6.75 9x 15 MARQUISE 10 5 mm: 6x3 8x4 9x4.5 10x5 10.5x5.25 11x5.5 11.5x5.75 12x6 12.5x6.25 13x 15 PEAR 10 5 mm: 5x3 6x4 7x5 8x5 8.5x5.5 9x6 9.5x6.5 10x7 10.5x7.25 11x TRILLIANT RADIANT ASSCHER EMERALD CUSHION 10 5 mm: 3.4 4.35 4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 7.75 8 10 5 mm: 5x3 6x4 6.5x4.5 7x5 7.5x5.5 8x6 8.25x6.25 8.5x6.5 8.75x6.75 9x 10 5 mm: 3.4 4.35 4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 7.75 8 10 5 mm: 3.9 4.9 5.6 6.2 6.65 7.0 7.4 7.8 8.1 8. 10 5 mm: 4.0 5.0 5.75 6.5 6.75 7.0 7.5 8.0 8.25 8 HEART 3.9 4.9 5.6 6.2 6.65 7.0 7.4 7.8 8.1 8. 52 | stuller.com  Diamonds illustrated to scale 3 ⁄4 1.00 11⁄4 11⁄2 carat weight 113⁄4⁄4 2.00 1 ⁄2 231⁄4⁄4 1.00 21⁄2 1213⁄4 3.00 11⁄2 4.00 13⁄4 2.00 21⁄4 21⁄2 ROUND 10 5 5.9 6.5 7.0 7.4 mm: 4.1 7.8 5.2 8.2 5.9 8.6 6.5 8.8 7.0 9.1 7.4 9.4 10.4 7.8 8.2 8.6 8.8 SQUARE 10 5 4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5 mm: 3.0 7.0 4.35 7.5 4.95 7.75 5.5 8.0 8.15 6.0 6.5 8.3 7.0 9.0 7.5 7.75 8.0 DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES | Diamond Size Chart 10 OVAL 5 6.5x4.5 7x5 7.5x5.5 mm: 8.25x6.25 8x6 5x3 8.5x6.5 6x4 8.75x6.75 6.5x4.5 7x5 9x7 7.5x5.5 9.5x7.5 10x8 8x6 8.25x6.25 11x9 8.5x6.5 8.75x6.75 9x7 15 MARQUISE 10 5 9x4.5 10x5 10.5x5.25 mm: 11.5x5.75 11x5.5 6x3 12x6 8x4 12.5x6.25 9x4.5 13x6.5 10x5 10.5x5.25 13.5x6.75 11x5.5 14x7 11.5x5.75 16x8 12x6 12.5x6.25 13x6.5 15 PEAR 10 5 7x5 8x5 8.5x5.5 9x6 mm: 9.5x6.5 5x3 10x7 6x4 10.5x7.25 7x5 11x7.5 8x5 11.5x7.75 8.5x5.5 12x8 9x6 9.5x6.5 14x9 10x7 10.5x7.25 11x7.5 TRILLIANT RADIANT ASSCHER EMERALD CUSHION 10 5 4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5 mm: 3.4 7.0 4.35 7.5 4.95 7.75 5.5 8.0 8.15 6.0 6.5 8.3 7.0 9.0 7.5 7.75 8.0 10 5 6.5x4.5 7x5 7.5x5.5 mm: 8.25x6.25 8x6 5x3 8.5x6.5 6x4 8.75x6.75 6.5x4.5 7x5 9x7 7.5x5.5 9.5x7.5 10x8 8x6 8.25x6.25 11x9 8.5x6.5 8.75x6.75 9x7 10 5 4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5 mm: 3.4 7.0 4.35 7.5 4.95 7.75 5.5 8.0 8.15 6.0 6.5 8.3 7.0 9.0 7.5 7.75 8.0 10 5 5.6 6.2 6.65 7.0 mm: 3.9 7.4 4.9 7.8 5.6 8.1 8.35 6.2 6.65 8.65 7.0 8.9 7.4 9.9 7.8 8.1 8.35 10 5 5.75 6.5 6.75 7.0 mm: 4.0 7.5 5.0 8.0 5.75 8.25 6.5 8.5 6.75 8.75 7.0 9.0 10.0 7.5 8.0 8.25 8.5 HEART 5.6 6.2 6.65 7.0 3.9 7.4 4.9 7.8 5.6 8.1 8.35 6.2 6.65 8.65 7.0 8.9 7.4 9.9 7.8 8.1 8.35 stuller.com | 53  JEWELRY ATTRIBUTES 57 Design Details 58 Finishes 59 Levels of Finish 60 Jewelry Metal Types DESIGN DETAILS JEWELRY ATTRIBUTES | Design Details Engraving Filigree Milgrain Pierced/Openwork Carved Enamel/Resin Inlay Raised Text Recessed Text Inside Engraving stuller.com | 57 FINISHES Bright Polished Semi-Polished Satin/Brushed Bead Blast/Matte Glass Blast Ice Stone Hammered Florentine 58 | stuller.com LEVELS OF FINISH FINISHED JEWELRY Complete and ready-to-wear jewelry that is polished and set with all stones. SEMI-FINISHED JEWELRY JEWELRY ATTRIBUTES | Finishes Partially complete jewelry which is typically set with accent gems. Due to increased flexibility and extreme differ- ence in cost of larger gemstones (based on quality and size), the center setting is incomplete so that a jeweler can remount a customer’s existing gemstone, set an in-stock gemstone, or purchase a new gem based on the customer‘s desire. SEMI-MOUNT WITH HEAD Polished and set with side stones or melee and complete with a fixed head. The center stone itself still needs to be set. SEMI-MOUNT WITHOUT HEAD Set with side stones or melee, but with no head or center stone. The center setting itself still needs to be installed and set. UNFINISHED JEWELRY Jewelry available in different degrees of finish. RAW. A raw casting that needs to be sanded, polished, and set with stones if needed. SEMI-POLISHED. The jewelry item has been tumbled, but needs a final polish and all stones to be set if needed. POLISHED. The jewelry item is complete pertaining to finishing, but all stones still must be set if needed. FINDINGS. Components or parts used in the making of jewelry, for example, heads, earwires, basket settings, jump rings, posts, etc. stuller.com | 59 JEWELRY METAL TYPES GOLD (Au) 24 Karat gold is a dense, malleable precious metal that is bright yellow in color and can be polished to a high luster. In its pure form it is considered too soft and not suitable to use in jewelry. Gold is commonly mixed with other metals, or alloys, to create a wide range of color variations and working properties. White gold is a silvery-looking gold alloy that contains gold mixed with palladium, nickel, or sometimes zinc to achieve its color. White gold has yellow undertones and is commonly rhodium-plated to create a whiter appearance. The plating will eventually wear away at which time it can be replated. X1 White Gold is a super white alloy that does not require rhodium-plating. 24 Karat gold fine (99.7% gold). 18 Karat gold is 18 parts gold or 75% pure gold content, which may be marked as 750. 14 Karat gold is 14 parts gold or 58% pure gold content, which may be marked as 585. 10 Karat gold is 10 parts gold or 41% pure gold content. Yellow White Rose Green PLATINUM (Pt) Platinum is a dense, malleable metal that is white in color with cool undertones. It is almost always used in its purest form in jewelry, 95%. Platinum is substantial in weight. Comparatively, a ring in platinum will weigh almost 60% more than the same ring in 14kt gold. For these reasons a platinum ring is significantly more expensive than the same item in a gold alloy. PALLADIUM (Pd) Palladium is a member of the platinum metal group and is a soft, silvery-white color with slightly gray undertones. It is also used in an almost pure form in jewelry, 95%. SILVER (Ag) Silver is a soft, lustrous metal that is very malleable and silvery-white in color. Sterling silver is a common alloy comprised of 92.5 % silver and 7.5 % copper. Continuum™ sterling silver is an alternative that is 92.5% pure, resistant to oxidation, and harder. Continuum™ sterling is suitable for gem setting and offers added longevity. 60 | stuller.com REFERENCE TABLES Hypo- Metal Color Finish Working Properties Allergenic Yellow Bright yellow Shows scratches, Malleable, wears No Gold to yellow polishes as worn over time White with White Shows scratches, Rigid, more brittle than a yellow No Gold polishes as worn platinum, wears over time undertone Malleable but dense. Resistant to wear, White with a Maintains surface Platinum shows scratches, dulls Yes cool undertone embellishment such as to satin finish engraving and milgrain JEWELRY ATTRIBUTES | Jewelry Metal Types Resistant to wear, Silvery-white shows scratches, Similar to platinum but with Palladium with a gray Yes slowly dulls to less weight undertone satin finish Silvery-white Shows scratches, Malleable, less suitable for Sterling with a slight polishes as worn, everyday jewelry because it No Silver pink undertone tarnishes wears away more quickly CONTEMPORARY METALS A variety of metal alternatives offer lower cost options for use in jewelry. Rings created from contemporary metals cannot be sized. Hypo- Emergency Metal Color Finish Properties Allergenic Removal Will show signs Lightweight, Motorized Titanium Gray of wear, but can Yes shatterproof Ring Cutter be polished Will show signs Motorized Dura Cobalt ® White of wear, but can Shatterproof Yes Ring Cutter be polished Heavy, Gray Will remain Tungsten/ substantial feel, Dura Tungsten ® White, Black polished with no Yes Ceramic can fracture or (topcoat) maintenance Ring Cracker break Tungsten/ Ceramic Black, White, Maintains its Can break Yes Ceramic Couture™ Pink (throughout) finish Ring Cracker Can be machined or cast. Will show Motorized Stainless Steel Grayish White Shatterproof Yes signs of wear Ring Cutter but can be polished stuller.com | 61 GLOSSARY OF TERMS GLOSSARY 4 Cs A universal grading system developed Baby/Youth Describes items small in by GIA (Gemological Institute of America) to scale to be worn by babies, toddlers, and teens. evaluate the quality of a diamond. The 4 Cs are Earring posts are usually shorter and are often Carat, Color, Clarity, and Cut. threaded or have some sort of safety clasp. Rings are usually sizes 0–3. Bracelets are Accent Gemstones Gemstones usually 5–5½" long. Necklaces are usually within a jewelry design that are not the main 15"–16" long. focus, but instead accent or complement the center gemstone and side gemstones. Bail An arched (often oval, teardrop, or Accent gemstones are typically comprised d-shaped) metal component used to hang a of melee gemstones. pendant from a chain or cord. It is meant to slide onto the chain rather than being soldered to it so Alloy A mixture of two or more metals to that the pendant moves independently from the create more desirable characteristics and/or chain and is not a permanent part of the chain added strength. or cord. Anneal A process used to bring metal Band A ring, usually uniform in width, alloys to a desired consistency, texture, or with no distinguishable “top”; may be set hardness by gradually heating and cooling. with gemstones. Anniversary Band A ring of three or Bangle Bracelet A closed, rigid more diamonds or gemstones, typically set in bracelet – with or without hinge and clasp – a channel or prong setting. The stones partially that slides over the hand. encircle the ring. Baroque An irregular-shaped stone or Antique Jewelry pearl. Also an art style characterized by Jewelry that is 100 years old or more. ornate detail. Anticlastic A form that is curved in two Bar Set A setting technique where the directions opposite one another (saddle-shaped). gemstone is secured between two parallel bars, See Synclastic. while the sides of the gem remain open. Art Deco A decorative style of the 1920s Base Metal A term informally referring and 1930s that features bold geometric shapes, to non-precious metals (such as copper, zinc, tin, linear patterns, and diverse colors. nickel, lead, or iron), which are commonly used in costume jewelry. Art Nouveau A decorative style from the late 1800s to early 1900s characterized by free- Basket Setting A type of prong setting flowing lines and stylized natural forms such as with open sides similar to a basket weave, that flowers, leaves, and feminine form. allows the lower portion of the gemstone to be visible. Assay The process used when determining the proportions of precious metal contained in a Basse-taille An enameling technique in piece of gold, silver or other alloys. which a low-relief pattern is created in metal by engraving or chasing, then the entire pattern is Attribute A characteristic of a product that filled with translucent enamel (similar to French can include a color, design, style, form, shape, “low height” champlevé). See Enamel. or feature. Bead A small, usually spherical component Azured A mounting that leaves a made from a variety of materials, which may be gemstone's pavilion facets uncovered so that partially drilled or fully drilled. A full drilled bead light can enter. will have one or more holes through it, allow- ing it to be strung singularly or with others in a sequence. Beads in shapes other than round are sometimes described as “fancy.” 64 | stuller.com Bead Set A method for securing a Bridge Accent A design element gemstone where a small bur of metal is located beneath the center stone that can be raised with a graver and pushed over the seen when looking at the ring in the through edge of the gemstone. finger view. Belcher A ring mounting in which the Bright-Cut A metal engraving technique prongs for the setting are formed from created by chiseling the metal with a polished the shank of the ring so that the gemstone tool creating a highly reflective surface. does not extend above the circumference of the shank. Brilliance Pertaining to diamonds, this term has two components: brightness and Bezel-Set A method for securing a contrast. Brightness refers to the amount of gemstone in which a band of metal encircles light returned from the diamond’s surroundings the girdle of the gemstone and is folded over and back to the observer. To be brilliant, a the gem to hold it in place. diamond also needs contrast, intensity of the white light from the crown of a polished Birthstone A precious or semi-precious diamond or other gemstone. gemstone popularly associated with the month of birth. Brilliance is affected by: hardness, GLOSSARY OF TERMS January- Garnet refractive index, reflectivity, polish, luster, February- Amethyst and proportions. March- Aquamarine April- Diamond Brooch A piece of jewelry that may May- Emerald be fastened to clothing, usually with a June- Pearl mechanism that consists of a straight, sharp July- Ruby pin finding, a hinge, and a catch. August- Peridot September- Sapphire Bulk Chain Chain that does not include October- Opal a clasp assembly. It has raw, cut ends and November- Citrine cannot be worn in its current state. December- Topaz Buttercup Setting A setting Body Jewelry Jewelry that usually consisting of six prongs connected to was manufactured specifically for use in a scalloped-shaped base that resembles body piercing. a buttercup flower. Bracelet An ornamental band or circlet Bypass A ring mounting design in which for the wrist, arm, or sometimes for the ankle. the two sides of the band do not meet in a straight line, but overlap or crisscross each Bracelet Slide A bead-type adornment other as seen in the top/looking down view. designed with two sets of holes to allow it to be strung onto a bracelet constructed of two Cabochon rows of chain. The resulting bracelet is known A polished, convex-cut, unfaceted gemstone. as a slide bracelet. CAD/CAM Bridal Set A matching set of rings that Computer-aided design and manufacturing. includes an engagement ring and a wedding band, which are worn stacked together. Cameo A design cut in relief, usually into a hard gemstone or shell. Bridge The structural portion of a mounting that connects one side of the shank Carat A unit of weight for precious and to the other. semi-precious gemstones, equal to 200 milligrams. See 4 Cs. stuller.com | 65 GLOSSARY Cathedral Setting A style of mount- Chevron or V-Prong A prong in the ing in which the sides of the ring arch above the shape of a V usually found on gemstone shapes band on either side of the stone as seen in the with sharp corners. through finger view. Choker A non-rigid necklace that fits snugly Catch See Pin-Catch. around the throat, usually 14"–15" in length. Center Gemstone The main gemstone Claddagh A traditional Irish ring design in the design which is usually the focal point of depicting two hands holding a crowned heart, the jewelry. representing friendship or love. Chain A series of connected metal links or Clarity A term used to describe the absence loops with an attached clasp assembly. or presence of internal or external flaws in a gemstone. See 4 Cs. Clasp Assembly The mechanism used to secure a chain and typically consists of Clasp A mechanism used to attach objects or a chain end and clasp. parts together, such as both ends of a chain. Chain End The hoop located on one end Claw (Prong) A wire used to fasten and of a chain, through which the other end can hold a gemstone in a setting. be looped. Cloisonné An ancient enameling Chain Tag A flat metal piece with a hole technique in which a design is outlined on a in each end where the quality mark or trademark metal base with bent wire of metal strips can be stamped. (typically soldered to the base) forming individual sections or compartments that are Champlevé An enameling technique filled in with colored enamel (French “cloison” of decoration in which the design is made by = cell or partition). See Enamel. lines or cells cut into a metal base. Similar to cloisonné, but the partitions are part of the base. Cluster Multiple gemstones grouped See Enamel. together in a setting, which may or may not overlap each other. Chandelier Earring One of a pair of long ornate earrings that dangle from the Clutch Back See Earring Clutch. earlobes, usually dropping more than one level. Dura Colbalt A corrosion and Channel-Set A setting style in which a wear-resistant contemporary metal alloy series of gemstones are set close together into consisting of cobalt and chromium. grooves in two parallel walls. Collar A rigid choker-style necklace that fits Charm A miniature object that may depict snugly around the neck. symbols, figures, letters, etc., usually attached to a bracelet using a spring-type clasp or a Color Grade As it pertains to jump ring. diamonds, color is one of the characteristics A Dangle Charm has a jump ring or used to define the quality of a diamond. bail-type clasp allowing it to swing to The GIA color scale ranges from D to Z, and fro. D being considered colorless and higher in A Bead Charm is a large, fancy bead value. See 4 Cs. with large holes allowing it to be strung onto a bracelet. Comfort-Fit Describes the convex interior of a ring or band. Charm Bracelet A bracelet to which charms may be or have been attached. Contemporary Designs that are up-to-date with current trends in the industry with a modern flair. 66 | stuller.com Contemporary Metal Depth In reference to a gemstone, Metal alloys and industrial metals that are not it is the length from table to culet. part of the traditional “precious metal” group. See Table/Culet. These low-cost alternatives include, but are not limited to, titanium, tungsten carbide, Design Element An attribute type stainless steel, and cobalt chrome. used to describe features of a jewelry item. Contour Band See Shadow Band. Diameter In reference to a gemstone, it is the overall width. Costume Jewelry Jewelry made with inexpensive materials or imitation gems. Diamond-Cut Chain Sharp edges cut onto the surface of a chain so that the Cord A long, thin, flexible strand that links flash and catch the light. can be used instead of chain for necklaces and bracelets. Cord can be made from satin, Die Struck A process for manufacturing leather, rubber, and other alternative materials. heads in which the item is stamped under extreme pressure, resulting in a work- Crown As it refers to a cut gemstone, the hardened rigid part. See Anneal. faceted area of a gemstone located above the GLOSSARY OF TERMS girdle, but below the table. Dispersion The power of a diamond when breaking up its light into its constituent Cuff Bracelet A rigid bracelet designed colors. See Fire. with an opening for easily slipping the brace- let onto the wrist. Drop Earring An earring that extends below the earlobe and is stationary. Cuff Link A decorative fastener – similar to a button – which is used to secure the ends DWT Abbreviation for pennyweight. of a shirt cuff. It may consist of two buttons There are 20 pennyweights in a ounce (troy). or button-like parts connected with a chain or See Pennyweight. peg that passes through two slits in the cuff. Ear Trim An earring designed to follow Culet the contour of the ear. Refers to the base point of a diamond. Earring A piece of jewelry worn on the Cut As it refers to a round diamond, cut lobe or edge of the ear. Popular earring types is the factor that determines the diamond‘s are chandelier, cluster, dangle, drop, earring brilliance. Cut qualifies the brilliance, fire, and jacket, ear trim, huggie, hinged, hoop, lever scintillation of a round, brilliant cut diamond back, and stud. by analyzing the diamond‘s symmetry, proportions, and polish. See 4 Cs. Earring Jacket An adornment for the ear that is an accessory to an earring, de- CZ Short for Cubic Zirconia, a man-made signed to be secured to the lobe with a stud. gemstone created to simulate a diamond. Approximately 64% heavier than diamond. Earring Post A pin-like or wire finding attached to the back of an earring that passes Dangle Earring An earring that through a pierced earlobe. Examples included extends below the earlobe and is designed screw posts and friction posts. to swing to and fro. Earring Back A disc or bead with Danish Modern A design style using a hole, through which an earring post is elements from the period of the 1960s. The threaded for the purpose of securing the designs are of the “form follows function” earring to the earlobe. Examples include nut, genre and are minimalist in presentation. screw, tension, omega, and clutch. See Minimalist. stuller.com | 67 GLOSSARY Earring Clutch A type of earring back Fashion Ring A type of ring worn to that attaches to an earring post after it passes express style or a current trend. through a hole in the earlobe. The earring clutch is used to secure an earring in place. Filigree Lace-like ornamental work formed from thin wires of intricately-arranged Earwire A wire used for pierced earrings. intertwined precious metal. May be plain, Popular styles include French hooks, lever back, twisted, or plaited. and kidney. Finding A component or part used in the Edwardian Characteristically containing making of a piece of jewelry. lace-like, fine filigree work with milgrain set- tings. Popular from 1900-1914, it was usually Finish A decorative texture applied to the produced in platinum for strength. Intricate, airy, surface to enhance its appearance. and feminine. See Filigree and Milgrain. Fire Dispersed light that appears as flashes Enamel An opaque or semi-transparent of spectral colors (rainbow) on a diamond. glass or substance applied to a metal surface for See Dispersion. protection or ornamental purposes. Fishtail Setting A setting technique Engagement Ring Traditionally worn consisting of four prominent triangular corners only by women (especially in Western cultures), cut from the existing shank that hold the an engagement ring is a ring indicating that the gemstone in place. When viewed from the person wearing it is engaged to be married. through finger view it looks like the tail of a fish. Enhancer An enhancer attaches to an Fitted Band See Shadow Band. existing jewelry item to create a new look. Some examples of enhancers include ring enhancers, Flush-Set A setting technique in pearl enhancers, and pendant enhancers. which the gemstone is embedded within the band and the metal from the band is used to Engraving The process or art of cutting or secure the gemstone, leaving only the top of the carving a design into a hard surface. gem visible. Eternity Band A band set with one or Fluted An ornamental groove in a surface more continuous rows of gemstones that which creates visual interest. completely encircle the band. Freeform Facet The flat, polished surface of a An asymmetrical, flowing shape or design. gemstone that affects a gemstone's brilliance and sparkle. French Hook An earwire shaped like a hook used for pierced drop earrings. Fancy Describes any jewelry that incorporates whimsy, fun, and innovation in Gallery its design. It is trendy and stylish and may not The negative space located on a head/setting. become a classic or be considered a basic item. It makes a great fashion statement or Gemstone A mineral or organic conversation starter. material with sufficient beauty, rarity, and dura- bility to be set into jewelry. Family Jewelry A jewelry item created with personal significance to the family usually Gallery Rail/Bearing The metal rim using birthstones to represent each member of located on a head/setting, below the girdle the family. of a gemstone. Fancy Wedding Band A wedding band with more decorative styling than a simple, traditional band. 68 | stuller.com Gemstone Shape Referring to Hammer-Set See Flush Set. the potential options of shape and size that a gemstone can be cut. The outline form of Halo A jewelry style featuring a central a gemstone, not to be confused with the gemstone surrounded by a border of smaller faceting pattern. gemstones. Genuine Stone A gemstone that is Head The part of a jewelry item that produced by nature without interference from secures the gemstone. This is sometimes man, other than cutting or fashioning. Do not referred to as the setting. confuse “natural” with untreated gemstones. Hidden Bail A bail located Girdle The narrow band or edge inconspicuously on the reverse side of a separating the upper and lower faceted pendant, so that the pendant appears to float portions of a gem. on the chain or cord. See Bail. Gold A precious, yellow, metallic element, Hinge A pin that fits through pieces of highly malleable and ductile and not subject to metal tubing that allow an item to articulate. oxidation or corrosion. Hinges are commonly found on lockets and boxes. GLOSSARY OF TERMS Gram A gram is a metric system unit of mass/weight. One ounce (troy) is equivalent to Hoop Earring A (usually) circular, ring- 31.10 grams. like earring that may be a complete circle or may only go part of the way around. Graver A tool used to cut designs into metal and for precision gemstone setting that Huggie Earring A small hoop ear- is made of highly-polished steel. ring that fits closely around the ear lobe. It is thicker than a standard hoop so that it appears Granulation A surface adornment to be “hugging” the ear lobe. It is designed technique in which minute grains or tiny balls with a hinge at the base of the hoop, facing of precious metal are applied to a surface in the shoulder, and a groove in the post enables patterns to create visual interest. it to snap into place to close securely. Guilloché An enameling technique in Hypo-Allergenic A term used to which precise, intricate, symmetrical patterns describe items (in this case jewelry) that are mechanically engraved into a metal base; cause or are claimed to cause fewer allergic sometimes referred to as “engine turning.” reactions. Depending on the allergen of the It was named after a French engineer who subject, these may include metals such as invented a machine to replicate these precise stainless steel, titanium, gold, etc. patterns that were previously done by hand (Example: Faberge’ eggs). Illusion-Set A setting technique pat- ented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933 (Mystery Gypsy-Set See Flush Set. Setting) in which a diamond is placed in a col- let of reflective, highly-polished metal so that Half Bezel-Set A method for securing it appears to be part of the gemstone in order a gemstone in which a band of metal partially to enhance the perceived size of the diamond. encircles the girdle of the gemstone and is folded over the gem to hold it in place. Inlay The insertion of pieces of gem- stones, wood, ivory, etc. into slots created on Hallmark A quality mark indicating pre- a surface for embellishment. cious metal content (10kt, 14kt, 18kt, platinum, etc). Typically stamped on a jewelry Invisible-Set A setting technique with item in an inconspicuous location (back, inside no visible prongs or supports. The gemstones ring shank, etc.). FTC requires the manufac- are grooved so that a thin wire framework turer or distributor of said product to disclose holds the gemstones in place. their identity by accompanying the quality mark with a trademark or company name. stuller.com | 69 GLOSSARY Jump Ring A wire ring of any size, Medical ID Jewelry Designed with a usually round or oval in shape, used for medically identifiable emblem and engraved to attaching jewelry parts. inform others of medical issues such as drug and food allergies and other medical conditions. Karat A unit of measure of the purity of gold. Pure gold equals 24 karats. Melee Classification used in the sorting of diamonds weighing less than.17 carats Key Ring A device for holding keys or 17 points each. together usually consisting of a metal ring. Micro Pavé A highly precise setting Kinetic Jewelry designed to move, technique similar to pavé but using extremely rotate, or revolve. Moving parts are trapped small gemstones. and cannot usually be removed from the main jewelry object. Milgrain Having the edge shaped into fine beading. Kit An assortment of products, often components, sold together, usually for back of Minimalist A term used to describe store use, often at a lower price than if the items a movement in design and architecture around were purchased individually. the 1960s and 1970s, where the subject is reduced as much as possible to only its Lapel Pin A small piece of jewelry necessary elements. with a post-type pin affixed to it with a clutch mechanism to secure it. May also be assembled Moissanite A rare mineral discovered with a small brooch-type, hinged pin assembly. by Henri Moissan, later synthesized in the A lapel pin is usually smaller than an inch laboratory and used as a high-quality in length. diamond substitute. Lariat Necklace A long cord-like Money Clip A folded clip used to necklace without a clasp, usually looped into a keep folded cash and/or credit cards in lieu knot, thus allowing the ends to hang down in of a wallet. the front. Mounting A jewelry item that has stone Lever Back A spring-loaded closure on settings, but in which no stones have been set. the back of some earrings. When in the closed It requires no further assembly work; the position, it secures the earring to the earlobe. exception being an unset semi-mount mounting which requires a head to be attached. Line Bracelet A flexible bracelet that can be unclasped and laid out to form a “line.” Neckwear A piece of jewelry that may be The links are usually joined by hinge pins. a string of gemstones, beads, jewels, etc., or a A tennis bracelet is a type of line bracelet. metal chain worn around the neck. Link Bracelet A bracelet made from Niobium connecting or linking various, sometimes similar, A silver-gray contemporary metal. components together. The links are usually interlocking, eliminating the need for hinge pins. Notched Band See Shadow Band. Locket A small, decorative case with one Nugget Ring/Jewelry or more spaces to hold a picture or memento, Jewelry designed to mimic and exaggerate the designed to be suspended from a chain. May look of a native lump of precious metal, usually also be incorporated into the design of a ring yellow gold. or bracelet. Omega Clip A wire attached and Looking Down/Top View A way to hinged on the back of an earring and used describe looking at a ring from the top down or as a mechanism to hold the earring in place. bird’s eye view. 70 | stuller.com Openwork See Pierced. Pin Assembly Jewelry findings used to secure a pin to the wearer. This assembly Organic A design style using free- is comprised of a pin-stem and pin-catch. flowing curves and surfaces similar to those from nature such as in leaves, vines, etc. Pin-Catch The securing mechanism for a pin-stem. Packages/Kits See Selling Systems. Pin Stem A sharply-pointed pin on a Patina Discoloration that forms naturally hinge that is suitable for piercing fabric or over time on metals such as silver and bronze. clothing. It is secured with a pin-catch. Patinas may also be introduced artificially through certain chemicals for aesthetic value. Platinum A heavy, non-corrosive white metal with high tensile strength which dulls Pavé A field of bead-set gemstones closely as it is worn but holds its detail for many set, usually in rows, whereby the entire years, giving it heirloom characteristics. surface of the jewelry is covered or pavéd. Plique-à-Jour An enameling tech- Pavilion The lower part of a cut nique by which the design is outlined with gemstone below the girdle. metal and filled in with colored enamels, but GLOSSARY OF TERMS with no backing so that the effect is similar to Pearl Enhancer A pendant with a a stained glass window. hinged, clasp-type bail that allows it to be attached to a pearl or bead necklace, or any Precious Metals Metals that are rare necklace that doesn’t allow a pendant to be and have high economic value. Gold, silver, slid onto it. platinum, and palladium. Peg Head A setting with a peg attached Precious Gemstone The group of to it that can be easily attached to a jewelry gemstones consisting of diamonds, rubies, item by inserting the peg into a drilled hole. sapphires and emeralds. Peg heads are commonly used in semi-mount engagement rings. Primary Metal The metal alloy that, when describing a two-tone item, makes up Pendant An adornment designed to be the majority of the weight of the jewelry item. suspended from a necklace. See Secondary Metal. Pendant Enhancer A pendant Profile A profile is a cross sectional designed so that another pendant, usually a view. Flat inside round, comfort-fit, inside solitaire, can be suspended inside of it. round, flat, knife-edge, etc., are examples of band profiles. Pennyweight Pennyweight is a common weight unit of measure used in the Promise Ring A ring worn to show valuation and measurement of precious commitment to a monogamous relationship, metals. One pennyweight equals 1⁄20 of a usually set with one or more diamond melee. ounce (troy). See DWT. Prong-Set A setting technique in Pierced In jewelry it refers to perforated which a gemstone is held in place by metal or openwork designs with regular patterns of projections or tines, called prongs. openings and holes. Prototype An example of a piece Pin Any type of jewelry that is fastened of jewelry created from inexpensive, to clothing using a sharp, pointed post and a non-precious materials. catch or clasp. May be a brooch, lapel pin, or tie tack. Puzzle Ring Several rings that fit together to create a single ring. stuller.com | 71 GLOSSARY Remount The act of removing gems from Semi-Precious Gemstone one jewelry item and setting them into a new A gemstone that is not a diamond, emerald, jewelry item. The term remount is sometimes sapphire, or ruby – historically thought to be used interchangeably with ”semi-mount,“ when less valuable than a precious gemstone, i.e., referring to jewelry designed for this purpose. amethyst, peridot, aquamarine, etc. Ring A piece of jewelry worn on the finger. Semi-Mount Ring Very small rings may be worn on the toes. with Head Any engagement ring set and sold to the jeweler with side stones or melee, Ring Guard A ring designed with two but without the center stone. The fixed head for shanks assembled so that a solitaire ring may the center stone is in place. be inserted into it. Semi-Mount Ring Riviera A necklace style comprised of without Head Any engagement ring flexible gemstone links which are typically set and sold to the jeweler with side stones or tapered in size. melee but without the center stone. The head for the center stone is NOT in place. May also Rolling Ring A ring usually consisting of be referred to as a set shank since it is not a three or more bands. As the ring is slid on and completely assembled ring. off the finger, the bands roll over one another. Setting The act of securing a gemstone. Roundel/Rondelle A doughnut-shaped The term setting is sometimes used or flattened, disk-shaped bead that is used as a interchangeably with head and/or mounting. spacer or an accent between other beads. Shadow Band A wedding band Rub Over See Flush Set. designed and contoured to be worn with a spe- cific engagement ring. The design is such that it Safety Clasp A secondary closure would not usually be worn on its own. added to some bracelets and necklaces for extra security. Shank A ring designed for, but stocked without a center head and that is not complete Scalloped-Set A technique for setting without such head. The part of a ring that gemstones in which the prongs are created encircles the finger. from the shank. Fishtail is one example of a scalloped setting. Shepherds Hook See French Hook. Scintillation The intense sparkles and Shoulders The upper part of a ring shank. flashes of light visible when either the person viewing the diamond or the lighting moves. Side Stones Gemstones that complement and place emphasis on the center Scooped Band A band with a gemstone. Side gemstones are typically larger concave groove on the inside of the band, than accent gemstones. designed to lessen the weight of the piece, therefore lowering the price. Side View A way to describe looking at a ring from the side. Secondary Metal When describing a two-tone item, the metal alloy that makes up the Silver A precious metal that is minority of the weight of the jewelry item. See commonly alloyed to create the more durable Primary Metal. alloy known as sterling silver. Selling System A pre-merchandised Signet Ring A ring with letters (usually collection of items marketed in a packaged one’s initials), or a design carved into it. A format, designed as a turn-key sales solution. college ring is an example of a signet ring. 72 | stuller.com Sizing Area The area at the bottom of Titanium A strong, low-density, highly a ring shank where metal can be inserted or corrosion-resistant and lustrous white element removed to reduce or increase the finger size that occurs widely in igneous rocks and is of the ring. mainly used to alloy aircraft metals. It is also a popular choice for piercing jewelry. Slide Pendant A bail-less pendant. May incorporate holes into the design to allow Trellis Setting A structure of open passage of a chain or cord. latticework especially used as a gallery support for gemstones. Solitaire A piece of jewelry containing or designed to hold a single diamond. Trim A decorative finding that can be added to another jewelry component to create Stainless Steel A contemporary a finished jewelry item. metal (a form of steel containing chromium and/or nickel) resistant to tarnishing and rust. Troy Ounce A unit of troy weight, used for weighing precious metals. The ounce Station Necklace contains 20 pennyweights (dwt) each of 24 A necklace with repeating elements. grains. One troy ounce is equivalent to 31.10 grams. GLOSSARY OF TERMS Sterling Silver A precious metal alloy of 92.5% silver and copper, Tungsten A contemporary metal or another material. containing equal parts of tungsten and carbon atoms. Strip Setting A metal strip jewelry finding that is usually comprised of repeating Two-Tone A jewelry item patterns in which gemstones can be set. comprised of two different metals or alloys of different color. Stud Earring Jewelry attached to the ear with an earring post through a piercing Unset Semi-Mount A ring mounting and secured with an earring back. designed to hold side stones or melee, but in which no stones have been set and the head Synclastic A surface or a portion of a for the center stone is NOT in place. May also surface that is curved towards the same side be referred to as a shank. in all directions. Vermeil Gold-plated or gilded silver. The Table Referring to the top, flat part of the FTC allows a product to be described as "ver- cut of a gemstone. meil" if it consists of a base of sterling silver coated or plated on all significant surfaces Tennis Bracelet See Line Bracelet. with gold or gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, that is of substantial thickness Tension-Set A setting that holds the and a minimum thickness throughout equiva- gemstone in place entirely with compression/ lent to 21⁄2 microns of fine gold. tension and not prongs. Wedding Band See Band. Three-Stone Ring A ring consisting mainly of three larger stones. White Gold A white-colored alloy of gold with nickel, platinum, or another metal. Through Finger View A way to describe looking at a ring through Work-Hardened The change in the finger hole. hardness of metal due to repeated cold flexing or stress. The annealing process can be used Tie Tack/Tie Clip A piece of jewelry to relieve the stress. used to hold a necktie in place. stuller.com | 73  REFERENCE TA BLES 76 Carats to Millimeters Conversion Chart for Round Diamonds 77 Weights and Measurements Conversion Chart 77 Gauge to Millimeters Conversion Chart for Round Wire/Flat Sheet 78 Gemstone Hardness and Specific Gravity 79 Metal Hardness and Specific Gravity 80 Finger Size to Millimeters Size Conversion Chart 80 Fineness of Gold Karats REFERENCE TABLES Carats to Millimeters Conversion Chart for Round Diamonds Carat (ct) Millimeters (mm) Carat (ct) Millimeters (mm) 0.005 1.0 1.25 7.0 0.007 1.2 1.33 7.2 0.010 1.3 1.50 7.4 0.015 1.5 1.60 7.6 0.020 1.7 1.75 7.8 0.025 1.8 1.90 8.0 0.030 2.0 2.00 8.2 0.035 2.1 2.15 8.4 0.04 2.2 2.25 8.6 0.05 2.4 2.50 8.8 0.06 2.5 2.65 9.0 0.07 2.7 2.85 9.2 0.08 2.8 3.00 9.4 0.09 2.9 3.15 9.6 0.10 3.0 3.35 9.8 0.11 3.1 3.50 10.0 0.12 3.2 3.75 10.2 0.14 3.3 4.00 10.4 0.15 3.4 4.25 10.6 0.16 3.5 4.50 10.8 0.17 3.6 4.75 11.0 0.18 3.7 5.00 11.2 0.20 3.8 5.25 11.4 0.22 3.9 5.50 11.6 0.23 4.0 5.75 11.8 0.25 4.1 5.81 11.8 0.30 4.2 6.00 11.9 0.33 4.4 6.25 12.1 0.35 4.5 7.00 12.5 0.38 4.6 7.50 12.9 0.40 4.8 7.75 13.0 0.43 4.9 8.00 13.1 0.47 5.0 8.23 13.3 0.50 5.2 8.50 13.4 0.60 5.4 8.75 13.5 0.63 5.5 9.00 13.7 0.65 5.6 9.20 13.8 0.75 5.8 9.75 14.0 0.80 6.0 10.34 14.5 0.85 6.2 12.00 15.0 0.95 6.4 12.92 15.4 1.00 6.5 13.17 15.5 1.10 6.6 14.50 16.0 1.17 6.8 76 | stuller.com  Weights and Measurements Conversion Chart To Convert (x) Multiply by (=) To Get Carat (ct) 0.1286 Pennyweight (dwt Carat (ct) 0.2 Gram (g) Pennyweight (dwt) 7.776 Carat (ct) Pennyweight (dwt) 1.5552 Gram (g) Pennyweight (dwt) 0.05 Ounce (troy) Gram (g) 5 Carat (ct) Gram (g) 0.64301 Pennyweight (dwt) Kilogram (kg) 32.1507 Ounce (troy) Kilogram (kg) 0.643014 Pennyweight (dwt) Inch 25.4 Millimeters (mm) Ounce (av) 0.91146 Ounce (troy) Ounce (av) 28.3495 Gram (g) Ounce (troy) 31.1035 Gram (g) REFERENCE TABLES Ounce (troy) 1.0971 Ounce (av) Pounds (lb) 453.592 Gram (g) Pounds (lb) 291.666 Pennyweight (dwt) Pounds (lb) 14.583 Ounce (troy) Gauge to Millimeters Conversion Chart for Round Wire/Flat Sheet Gauge (ga) Millimeters (mm) Gauge (ga) Millimeters (mm) 0 8.25 20 0.81 2 6.54 21 0.721 4 5.19 22 0.643 6 4.11 23 0.572 8 3.26 24 0.511 10 2.59 25 0.455 12 2.05 26 0.404 13 1.83 27 0.36 14 1.63 28 0.32 15 1.45 29 0.285 16 1.29 30 0.254 18 1.02 32 0.201 19 0.91