JE ASS #4 - Designer, Branded, Custom Jewelry PDF

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ComplementaryLutetium

Uploaded by ComplementaryLutetium

Gemological Institute of America

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jewelry design history of jewelry jewelry types

Summary

This document provides an overview of different types of jewelry, including designer, custom, estate, and historic periods like Victorian and 20th-century styles. It discusses various features, motifs, materials, and design approaches.

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JE ASS #4: Designer, Branded, Custom and Estate Jewelry -Jewelry that sets itself apart from the mainstream can have a strong psychological appeal for consumers. -Great design houses like Cartier have been around since the late 19th century. Brilliant jewelry artists have been creating unique desig...

JE ASS #4: Designer, Branded, Custom and Estate Jewelry -Jewelry that sets itself apart from the mainstream can have a strong psychological appeal for consumers. -Great design houses like Cartier have been around since the late 19th century. Brilliant jewelry artists have been creating unique designer jewelry for decades. The jewelry is often branded —labeled with the name of its manufacturer, design house, or designer—for a growing contemporary market. Designer Jewelry : -By the 1980s, designer jewelry had become very popular—and not just for elite group of wealthy connoisseurs. -retailers were a little reluctant to accept the idea of branded jewelry do to the space it took in the shop, higher price point, and how that would effect there brand by diluting it -Designers began marketing their jewelry directly to consumers, many by opening their own retail stores. -Consumers responded by asking for designer jewelry by name. -By the end of the 1990s, many jewelry retailers were displaying designer collections and found that this helped them set themselves apart from their competitors. -Linking a designer brand with the name of a famous design house can increase the value of a jewelry item -independent jewelry designers and manufacturers brand their own styles and sell their creations through jewelry chains, department stores, and independent jewelers. -Designer collections exist for almost any budget -Some retail jewelry chains and their brands are synonymous like DeBeers and Mikimoto Custom Jewelry: -Custom jewelry is designed and made according to customer specifications and can be hand made or made from manufactured findings -custom jewelry offers a unique, made-to-order adornment for customers who want jewelry that expresses their individuality, it being custom is a powerful benefit. -CAD/CAM lets a jewelry designer create a unique piece that can be exactly reproduced many times over for the mass market. Estate Jewelry: -Estate jewelry is a broad category that includes any jewelry that was previously owned. -Estate jewelry can be of recent vintage or it can be period jewelry , which is jewelry that comes from a recognized time period. -The term antique jewelry is used in the US and many other countries for jewelry that’s at least 100 years old. -Today’s jewelry designers and manufacturers can respond to this demand by creating reproduction jewelry that features design themes from bygone days. Victorian Jewelry: -Victorian jewelry, which was popular during the reign of England’s Queen Victoria (1837 to 1901). -Victorian styles typically include one or more of the following: precious gemstones, sentimental/romantic symbols , locks of human hair, mourning jewelry made of jet and other black materials, camoes -Some Victorian jewelry honored past cultures by reviving Greek, Roman, and Egyptian jewelry styles as well as Gothic and Renaissance motifs. -Jewelry pieces made of silver-topped gold were also popular in the Victorian era. To create them, artisans mechanically attached a thick layer of silver to a foundation of gold. 20th Century Jewelry: -The jewelry industry flourished during the first decades of the 20th century due to social roles also changing, Jewelry prices were within reach of the ordinary citizen. -Twentieth-century jewelry styles include Art Nouveau, Edwardian or Garland, Art Deco, and Retro styles. Art Nouveau: -Introduced in the 1890s, the flowing style of Art Nouveau was a departure from the historic revival styles that had dominated 19th-century decorative arts inspired by the vitality of the natural world and an appreciation for Japanese art. -Art Nouveau style combines realistic interpretations of plants and animals with creatures of fantasy and myth Raised to the level of fine art by such designers as René Lalique, Art Nouveau Continued....... -Art Nouveau jewelry often includes one or more of these features: Curving lines Realistic portrayals of nature, including butterflies, dragonflies, birds, and intertwining foliage Fantastic creatures like dragons and other mythical beasts Gems like pearl, opal, moonstone, aquamarine, tourmaline, rose quartz, chalcedony, chrysoprase, and amethyst Use of glass, either molded or as enamel Designs of women transformed into mermaids, winged sprites, or flowers Edwarian Jewelry: - Between 1900 and 1915, during the reign of England’s King Edward VII, the upper classes of Europe and the US wore jewelry as a way to demonstrate their wealth and favored lavish jewelry inspired by the 18th-century French court and made of the finest, rarest, and most costly gems and precious metals,sometimes called Garland jewelry -Platinum was first extensively used in jewelry during this period. - Style can include these features: Pearls and diamonds Delicate platinum mountings Colored gemstones including ruby, sapphire, emerald, opal, and cat’s-eye chrysoberyl Motifs like garlands, ribbons, bows, crescents, starbursts, Greek keys, laurel wreaths, wings, feathers, crowns, oak leaves, swallows, and butterflies Art Deco: -The Art Deco style emerged after World War I and dominated jewelry and decorative arts from 1920 through the 1930s. -Art Deco jewelry suggests post-war practicality through its geometric patterns and bold colors. -Features Included: Bold, contrasting colors Strong geometric patterns Sleek, streamlined look, emphasizing the vertical line Gemstones including diamond, black onyx, lapis lazuli, ruby, emerald, sapphire, jade, turquoise, and topaz Carved or cabochon-cut colored gemstones Retro Jewelry: -Post World War 2 (1940's) gems were in short supply and platinum was reserved for military use, so jewelry produced used materials, such as gold and diamonds, that were still available during these lean years -The Retro style rounded Art Deco’s sharp angles and muted its bold colors, less curves, thin sheet metal, cheaper stones, more opulent use of colored stones and more feminine-looking designs. -Common themes and styles in Retro jewelry include: Floral and bow motifs in colored gems Animal figures of enameled gold and gems Jeweled brooches and lapel clips Bold, sculpted curves of rose gold set with small diamonds and rubies Designs inspired by mechanical objects like bicycle chains, padlocks, and tank treads Stylized natural motifs Gemstones like small diamonds, rubies (often laboratory-grown), and light-colored sapphires Selling Estate Jewelry: - Estate jewelry is a growing source of revenue for retailers establishing departments that specialize in estate jewelry. - auction catalogs are a good way to familiarize yourself styles, periods, and auction prices - Encouraging customers to collect is one way to build clientele and you can focus on style, color, or shapes Selling Step #4: Create Desire - Creating desire involves building on your customer’s interest and enthusiasm so she begins to feel she must have the jewelry. -It’s always helpful to validate your customer’s interest and to affirm a personal connection by linking her with the choice she’s made and show her how the piece matches her unique needs - Remember jewelry purchase is mainly an emotional decision. Build Romance: -During your demonstration leave the impression that you admire the merchandise and that you invite your customer to share your feelings. (this is done by how carefully you handle the jewelry) -Jewelry lore can help you build an aura of rarity, romance, or mystery for example like emeralds are said to foretell future events, and diamonds are emblems of fearlessness and invincibility. -Each jewelry piece has special qualities that you can tie to your customer’s motivation to buy. -Paint a "word picture" that fulfills her motivation, like using colorful description like lush green islands, warm tropical breezes, and turquoise seas, etc Ask Leading Question: - Having your customer affirm the value of a feature or benefit casts the piece in a positive light and encourages acceptance.

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