JE: Ass #1 Sales PDF

JE: Ass #1 Sales - A feature is a characteristic or part of the jewelry. - What that feature does for the customer is called its benefit, which aesthetic, psychological, practical. Precious Metals: - The metals most often used in jewelry—gold, platinum, and silver—((Palladium—a metal with propertie...

JE: Ass #1 Sales - A feature is a characteristic or part of the jewelry. - What that feature does for the customer is called its benefit, which aesthetic, psychological, practical. Precious Metals: - The metals most often used in jewelry—gold, platinum, and silver—((Palladium—a metal with properties similar to platinum—is also considered by many to be a precious metal.) - Base Metals: non-precious metals, such as copper, zinc, tin, nickel, lead, and iron. - Precious metal qualities are allure, rarity, workability, and durability. - Allure comes from their heft, color, and luster. - Gold is a bright and sunny yellow. Platinum and silver are both considered white metals by the trade, platinum’s rich gray-white looks quite different from silver’s gleaming white. - people admire most about precious metals is their luster - Polished pure silver shines more brightly than any other metal on earth with 90 percent of the light that strikes it is reflected back to the observer’s eye. - Polished platinum’s luster can change over time, becoming softer and richer and achieving a subtle, enchanting glow called patina. - Gold is the rarest and makes up only about four parts per billion of the earth’s crust. - Platinum is less rare, at about five parts per billion - Silver is next, at about 75 parts per billion. Workability, Durability, and Metal Memory: - Malleable metals can be shaped or bent without breaking. - Ductile metals can be drawn into wire or hammered into sheets. - All three precious metals are both malleable and ductile, gold more so than platinum and silver - They are durable, meaning they’re strong and long-wearing. They’re resistant to impact, too. - Also resist corrosion, meaning they stand up well when they’re exposed to chemicals in the environment. - Silver can tarnish, a mild form of corrosion. - “metal memory,” means the material tends to return toward its previous shape - platinum has the least metal memory ,so when bent, it tends to stay in that position (Gold and silver have more metal memory than platinum) Fineness: - Fineness is a measure of a precious metal’s purity, and it’s based on parts per thousand - A metal that rates 1,000 is described as fine, or pure meaning it has virtually no impurities, and it’s not mixed with another metal. aka not an alloy - Ex: a precious metal is 75 percent pure, its fineness is 750, A precious metal that’s stamped “950” is very nearly pure. Gold: - Gold’s appeal comes mostly from its color, luster, rarity, and resistance to corrosion, and is preferred by customers who prefer color - highly workable,retains its value and has substantial heft is related to its density. (ex-Gold is more than 19 times as dense as water) Alloy: Alloying gold increases its tensile strength and hardness - Tensile strength is the maximum stretching force a metal can withstand before breaking. - Hardness refers to how well the metal resists scratching and denting. - Alloying can also lower gold’s melting point, which reduces its cost. - US and most other countries, people use the term karat to state gold’s fineness, which is based on parts out of 24, pure gold is 24 parts gold—or 24-karat gold. - 75 percent pure—18 parts gold and six parts an alloying metal or metals—is 18-karat gold. - Fourteen-karat gold is 14 parts gold and 10 parts another metal or metals, 58.5 percent gold, but the proportions of other metals—usually silver and copper vary - In the US, the most popular gold alloy used in jewelry is 14K - In other countries, 8K, 9K, 10K, 18K, and 22K to 24K gold are popular for jewelry. - Varying amounts of copper can give gold a rose or even reddish color. Increasing the silver in a gold alloy can give it a green color, and nickel and palladium can whiten it. Alloy Ingredients: - 14k Yellow Gold : gold, copper, silver , zinc - 18k Yellow Gold : gold copper, silver and zinc - Green Gold : gold, copper and silver ( amount of silver increased ) - Rose(pink) Gold: gold, copper, silver (amount of copper increased) - White Gold: gold, nickel or palladium, copper, zinc Platinum and Palladium: -Platinum is almost as ductile as gold and silver, but it’s harder to scratch than either, dents more easily than gold but more resistant to dents then silver, and does not tarnish and can take a high polish -It’s a little denser than gold and more than twice as dense as silver which gives it strength and a heavier feel the other 2 metals, and is less brittle then a gold alloys (hence it being used often for prongs) - Most platinum rates 900 or 950 on the fineness scale, the other 50 or 100 parts in a platinum alloy are often another platinum group metal, usually iridium or ruthenium, added to increase hardness, (Cobalt and copper are other metals commonly used in platinum alloys.) -Platinum is sometimes plated with rhodium to give it a whiter finish -Palladium is a lustrous silvery white metal and has similar properties of platinum, but palladium is not as dense -used in jewelry since the 1930s but has caught on with consumers only recently -Palladium can be alloyed with gold to produce white gold, but the alloy is more expensive than using nickel and silver. Silver: - Silver’s bright, white shine and workability are its principal assets for jewelry use - Pure silver is too soft so it’s usually mixed with a small amount of copper, Copper hardens silver without effecting polish luster -Sterling silver is by far the most popular silver alloy, defined as 925 parts silver and 75 parts copper - “silver” in the US, an alloy must be at least 92.5 percent silver - Silver is about half as dense as either gold or platinum - Sulfur in air reacts with silver to form silver sulfide, a common tarnish - Silver gilt, also called vermeil, is a thin surface coating of gold on silver - Vermeil plating process use to be done with mercury (toxic), but modern vermeil is created by electroplating Alternative Jewelry Materials: - include rubber, silk, and leather or leather-like imitations. - rubber used in jewelry is almost always black cord of various diameters, in bracelets, necklaces, and rings, often in combination with metals and gems - Braided leather and leather-like imitations often used as cord in bracelets and necklaces. Woven silk is used as necklace cord and in wide bracelets with jeweled clasps. Alternative Metals: - Tungsten metal is blended with carbon and a bonding metal, usually cobalt, to form tungsten carbide, it’s extremely hard ans tungsten carbide takes and retains a high polish - Its dark gray and highly resistant to scratching and in the trade tungsten carbide rings have been described to have “permanent polished.” - its 75 percent as dense as gold and platinum, and 50 percent denser than silver, has good heft, but it’s not easy to work, so its jewelry uses are limited. Alternative Metals Cont....... - Pure Titanium or a titanium alloy materials are lightweight but very strong, half as dense as silver, so it doesn’t have the heft of the precious metals,resists scratching about as well as 14K gold - silver-gray in color and often polished or brushed. - Pure titanium is hypoallergenic, meaning it won’t cause allergic reactions or skin discoloration - Alloying titanium with small amounts of aluminum and vanadium increases its durability and scratch resistance. - Difficult to work jewelry pieces must be mechanically cut, shaped, and assembled, because of this titanium jewelry is priced in the same range as precious metal jewelry. -Niobium is popular with designers and manufacturers because it’s easy to work with and to color. - It can’t be soldered, so its joined with rivets or tiny screws—but its workability is comparable to silver and any design in gold, silver, or platinum, can be create with niobium. -niobium is hypoallergenic, it’s popular for body-piercing jewelry, with the same density as silver (more then titanium but less then gold and platinum) -its harder to scratch and harder to dent then silver and platinum and resistant to corrosion -Niobium, tungsten, and titanium can be heated or anodized to produce brilliant colors - Anodizing is an electrochemical process results in a protective or decorative coating on metal, colors include navy blue, light blue, yellow, rose, bronze, pink, magenta, midnight blue, and various greens -Stainless steel is an alloy. Its composition varies with its purpose, but to be called stainless steel it must be at least 10.5 percent chromium -chromium creates an invisible surface film that resists oxidation,making it corrosion resistant -stainless steel alloy used to make jewelry is composed of iron, chromium, and nickel -more scratch resistant than any of the three precious metals, but it exceeds only silver in its resistance to denting. It also takes a high polish. Precious Metal Regulations: - Quality Marks originated in ancient Egypt and Rome, where they often used official marks to indicate the purity of precious metal bars - By the 14th century, the practice of marking precious metals with official government-required stamps had spread throughout Europe - US permits a difference of 3 parts per thousand (ppt) on unsoldered items and 7 ppt on soldered items. -Denmark, Finland, Great Britain, Hungary, Italy, Switzerland, and Turkey have some of the strictest requirements and do not permit even the slightest negative tolerance. - Germany, on the other hand, has one of the most lenient standards. The difference can be as much as 10 ppt less than the quality mark indicates. US Regulations: - jewelry item is stamped with a quality mark, it must also have a registered trademark to identify the manufacturer. -best way for a jeweler to protect against underkarating fraud is to buy only trademarked and quality- stamped jewelry. -Gold must be marked with the karatage and the manufacturer’s trademark. Using the word “gold” alone when you describe an item that’s not made entirely of 24K gold is a violation of the guidelines. - Silver stamped “silver” or “sterling silver” only if it contains at least 925 ppt (92.5 percent) of pure silver. “Coin silver” must contain at least 900 ppt (90.0 percent) of pure silver. -Platinum quality marks are based on the number of parts per thousand of pure platinum in the alloy, -950 parts or more of pure platinum, it can be marked platinum, plat., or pt. without stating the exact amount of platinum or the name of the metal used as an alloy -If a platinum alloy is at least 500 parts pure platinum, it must be marked with the parts per thousand of pure platinum, followed by the parts per thousand of each alloying metal (for example, 800Plat.200Irid. for an item alloyed with iridium). Regulations In Britain: - Britain’s strict quality assurance requires that every article of gold, silver, and platinum with a quality mark be assayed by one of four government-controlled offices, so any precious metal article manufactured in Britain, including palladium, is verifiable. -British assay offices have the final word on whether a precious metal object meets the standard, any that doesn't is crushed and sent back to the manufacture -Each precious metal article must be stamped with a hallmark that indicates its purity and origin. Hallmarks: - A sponsor’s mark that identifies the manufacturer, or sponsor, of the item by using initials of the individual or firm responsible -A standard mark that certifies the precious metal content -The fineness, stated as karatage or as parts per thousand -The location of the assay office responsible for certifying the article -The date letter, which shows the year in which the article was hallmarked (this became voluntary as of January 1, 1999) -Gold includes all five stamps. Gold’s standard mark is a crown, Silver and platinum are stamped with all but the fineness mark -Sterling silver (92.5 percent pure) is a figure of a lion walking with its farthest forepaw raised, called a lion passant, Britannia silver, which is 95.8 percent fine, has a lion’s head or the seated figure of Britannia, a female figure that symbolizes Britain. - Platinum that’s 95 percent pure or higher is symbolized by a cross on top of a round globe, called an orb - standard mark for palladium that’s 50, 95, or 99.9 percent pure is a figure symbolizing Pallas Athene, the Greek goddess of war, wearing a warrior’s helmet. Regulations in Italy: - By law, any gold jewelry sold in Italy must be at least 18K (Manufacturers can produce gold that’s less fine, but solely for export) - gold objects weighing more than one gram (0.035 ounce, avoirdupois) must have two stamps, first indicates the gold content in parts per thousand (750 indicates 18K, for example), -second stamp has three identity marks: “Star of Italy,” which identifies the manufacturer as an Italian, Next is a number that indicates the order in which the company applied for a stamp in that province, third that provinces initials (MI for Milan),the absolute minimum required by Italian law, other marks can be add like a logo or model number - Export items have to stamp the word "Italy" in addition to the other marks Regulations in Asia: - In Japan, jewelry manufacturers submit their goods to the Mint Bureau, Mint examines the fineness of platinum, gold, silver, and platinum-and-gold items and then stamps them with the Mint Certification Mark and fineness mark, Platinum items are also marked with a “Pt.” - Mint Bureau’s fineness marks vary, platinum in 850, 900, 950, and 1000 ppt categories; for gold in nine categories from 375 ppt (9K) through 1000 ppt, silver in 800, 900, 925, 950, and 1000 ppt categories, and are followed by manufactures trade maker - Hong Kong jewelry items are stamped with special characters to indicate purity levels. The finest gold—not less than 990 ppt, or 99 percent pure—gets the designation of “Chuk Kam” -Chinese characters for “Chuk Pak Kam” indicate platinum with a fineness of not less than 990 ppt. -Indonesia’s gold jewelry standards require a special mark along with the manufacturer’s logo and karatage mark. (subject to confirmation by government and industry associations.) Marking and Selling Plating : -gold and silver are the most common, and Plating thickness is measured in tiny units of measure called microns. A micron equals one thousandth of a millimeter. An average human hair is about 50 microns across. -The thickness of the plating and the fineness of the precious metal content determine the legal definition of the finish Jewelry Style : -a " Jewelry Style" can refer to several different features of a piece of jewelry such as: setting style (prong), the type of jewelry (earring), design period (art deco), designer, brand or custom design category - Setting styles or how they are set in their mountings, prong setting is the most popular Jewelry Categories - the US market, jewelry is divided into three categories: Fine Jewelry, Bridge Jewelry, Fashion/ Costume Jewelry - Fine jewelry is made of 14K or finer gold, sterling silver, or platinum with high quality gem stones -Bridge is made of gold that’s less than 14K or lightweight 14K, gold-filled metal or sterling silver, and with or without lower-quality gems -Fashion/Costume is made of base metals, plastic, wood, or other common materials, with or without sterling silver or gold plate. If it’s set with gems, they might be laboratory-grown or imitations. Jewelry Manufacturing : -Hand Fabrications:every element is formed, assembled, joined, and finished entirely by hand or with hand tools. - Lost Wax Casting: Lost-wax casting can be used for mass production and one-of-a-kind pieces. -Die striking: Dies usually have two parts: a punch and a mold,multiple items can be made with the same die, die striking is economical, too, making die-struck jewelry affordable. - Electroforming: several wax copies are created and coated with a thin layer of conductive paint. The copies are then submerged in an electrically charged solution that contains precious metal particles, charged particles bond to the coating, building a metallic surface, creates hollow jewelry that’s light in weight and thin -Machining: thick solid metal blanks are mounted on cutting or milling machines for trimming to the desired size and shape Jewelry Sales: -Selling is the process that helps a customer acquire a product and the benefits it provides. jewelry sales associate, considering the customer’s point of view and using a step-by-step sales system will help you succeed. -seven steps to a successful sale: Approach the Customer, Exchange Information, Build Value, Create Desire Trial Close,Close the Sale, Follow Up