Introduction - Waves PDF

Introduction - Waves CONSTRUCTION OF MARITIME WORKS Date: Wednesday 18-09-2024 Time: 14:00h.-17:00h. Place: Aula A1-103 Introduction The ocean´s movement Source: Image by Warren Antiola, Flickr Introduction Waves pla...

Introduction - Waves CONSTRUCTION OF MARITIME WORKS Date: Wednesday 18-09-2024 Time: 14:00h.-17:00h. Place: Aula A1-103 Introduction The ocean´s movement Source: Image by Warren Antiola, Flickr Introduction Waves play an important role in coastal ecosystems. Source: Image by Flickr user bluewavechris Introduction What causes ocean waves? Waves are caused by energy passing through the water, causing the water to move in a circular motion. Source: Image by Flickr user bluewavechris What causes ocean waves? What causes ocean waves? Waves are caused by energy passing through the water, causing the water to move in a circular motion. Source: Image by Flickr user bluewavechris Introduction Waves – the wave anatomy Source: Image by NOAA Introduction Wave Formation (Surface Waves) Strong and persistent wind generates large waves Source: Image by Tom Gill, Flickr Introduction Summary - What are waves, and how are they generated? Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_LfcaKhASA Introduction How are waves measured? In-situ Buoys Source: https://www.eomoffshore.com/environmentalsamplingprocessor  Wave´s parameters Introduction - Wave height - Period How are waves represented? Holthuijsen, L. H. (2007). Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters. Cambridge University Press.  Introduction Temporal Series – Statistic parameters How are waves represented? Holthuijsen, L. H. (2007). Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters. Cambridge University Press. Introduction - Energy Spectrum: Spectral wave height and peak period Holthuijsen (2007) Introduction Random model of the sea surface Overlapping components from different directions Introduction - Directional Spectrum Introduction - Energy density distribution maps The wave energy distributions of the two buoys are all concentrated in the same wave direction range from 90 to 210 degrees. Source: Sensors 2019, 19(3), 541; https://doi.org/10.3390/s19030541 Types of waves Types of surface waves show the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency and period, the nature of the forces that cause them, and the relative amounts of energy in each type of wave. Note: Waves caused by “other wind waves” result from interactions between waves of higher frequency as they move away from storm areas. Types of waves Types of surface waves show the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency and period, the nature of the forces that cause them, and the relative amounts of energy in each type of wave. Note: Waves caused by “other wind waves” result from interactions between waves of higher frequency as they move away from storm areas.  Introduction - Waves CONSTRUCTION OF MARITIME WORKS Date: Wednesday 18-09-2024 Time: 14:00h.-17:00h. Place: Aula A1-103