ElectrolysisTM-1 (1) PDF

Electrolysis is a procedure designed to provide permanent hair removal. A technician will insert a metal probe, or a needle, into every individual hair follicle in the area being treated. Once the needle is in place, the technician causes a pulse of electricity to flow through the probe and directl...

Electrolysis is a procedure designed to provide permanent hair removal. A technician will insert a metal probe, or a needle, into every individual hair follicle in the area being treated. Once the needle is in place, the technician causes a pulse of electricity to flow through the probe and directly into the follicle. This is designed to prevent the hair from growing back in the future, but there are several different factors that may affect the permanence of electrolysis. This may include everything from the skill of the electrologist to the growth phase of the follicle itself. It describes the competencies required to enable you to: © © © © © Understand what Electrolysis is Recognize the specific requirements of an Electrolysis consultation Prepare clients for treatment Perform Electrolysis treatments Complete Electrolysis treatments. Electrolysis is arguably the most skilled area of cosmetology, giving unsurpassed emotional and financial rewards to the electrolysis electrologist. Electrolysis/electro-epilation are general terms referring to permanent hair removal, encompassing three methods, techniques, or modalities: galvanic, diathermy and blend. Electrolysis is the only hair removal method that gives permanent results. That is because the hair follicle is removed during electrolysis. This prevents hairs from growing back. So, if you want to get rid of your beard shadow, electrolysis is the way to go! Please Enjoy! WHATS INSIDE? ELECTROLYSIS INTRODUCTIONS THE CONSULTATION PROCESSES ABOUT ELECTROLYSIS CONDUCTING A HOLISTIC CONSULTATIO THE HISTORY OF ELECTROLYSIS WHY CHOOSE ELECTROLYSIS? ELECTRICITY & ELECTROLYSIS ELECTRICAL SCIENCE ANATOMY OF THE HAIR HAIR STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR PRINCIPLES OF HAIR GROWTH FACTORS AFFECTING HAIR GROWTH A–Z OF HAIR FACTS ELECTROLYSIS FOR HIRSUTISM CAUSES OF HIRSUTISM TREATMENT OF HIRSUTISM DOES ELECTROLYSIS HAIR REMOVAL WORK FOR HIRSUTISM? HAIR REMOVAL OPTIONS CONSULTATION & RECORDS ELECTROLYSIS CONSULTATION CDISINFECTING & SANITIZING THE CONSULTATION PROCESSES TYPES OF ELECTROLYSIS & TECHNIQUES GALVANIC ELECTROLYSIS THERMOLYSIS THE BLEND TECHINQUE BEST ELECTROLYSIS PRACTICE THE ONE-HANDED TECHNIQUE THERAPIST’S POSTURE POSITIONING OF THE CLIENT PRE-TREATMENT CONSIDERATIONS SKIN TYPE TREATMENT PLANNING ELECTROLYSIS AFTERCARE ELECTROLYSIS INTRODUCTIONS Electrolysis is arguably the most skilled area of cosmetology, giving unsurpassed emotional and financial rewards to the electrolysis electrologist. Electrolysis/electro-epilation are general terms referring to permanent hair removal, encompassing three methods, techniques, or modalities: galvanic, diathermy and blend. Key Terms: © Electrologist: A person in the field of electrolysis as used throughout this manual © Epilation: Permanent removal of unwanted hair ABOUT ELECTROLYSIS Electrolysis is defined as the decomposition of an electrolyte by the action of a direct electric current passing through it. Broadly speaking, an electrode the size of the hair (called a needle or probe) is placed into the hair follicle and used to conduct a very low current to the growing portion of the hair follicle. The current disables the growing portion of the follicle leading to its permanent destruction and the inability to produce hair. Electrolysis is the term used in the hair removal and professional beauty industry, while electro-epilation is the term used, for the same procedure, in education. There is some discussion regarding the term for the person who carries out electrolysis: is someone who studies electrology an electrologist or is someone who carries out electrolysis an electrologist? Many argue that, as someone in the field of dermatology is a dermatologist, a person in the field of electrolysis should therefore be an electrologist and this is the term used throughout this manual. KEY TERMS To add to the confusion, in colleges electrolysis is often referred to as electro- epilation; however, we will not introduce the term electro-epilationists as we believe it would be going too far HAIR REMOVAL HISTORY Electrolysis hair removal has been around for more than a century (almost 150 years). Let’s dive into the history of electrolysis hair removal with this infographic, followed by the whole story! Throughout history people have gone to great lengths to remove unwanted hairs. The earliest references to hair removal come from the ancient civilizations of Mesopotamia (now Iraq), Egypt and Greece. Early writings from Mesopotamia tell of kings asking that maidens ‘be brought to me that are clean and smooth’, that is hairless. The practice of hair removal, however, may date back as far as the cavemen. Archaeologists have discovered evidence that men shaved their faces as far back as 20,000 years ago, using sharpened rocks and shells to scrape off hair. During the time of the Turkish (Ottoman) Empire, the harem was an important part of court life. The removal of bodily hair was considered an art, a tradition that has been handed down through the generations. Certain Arabic people still practice total bodily hair removal, especially prior to the wedding night. Ancient Arabians used string to remove hair, a practice which we now call threading. Egyptians, including Cleopatra, also removed hair: some using bronze razors that have been found in their tombs, but there were other methods, utilizing sugar or beeswax. The Greeks, who equated smooth with civilized, also practiced hair removal. Roman men shaved their faces, Julius Caesar is said to have had his facial hairs plucked. Roman ladies plucked their eyebrows with tweezers. A primitive method of hair removal, which continues to be used, is rubbing the skin with abrasive mitts or discs to remove the hair. Early depilatory creams were made from ingredients such as arsenic, quick lime, resin, ivy gum extracts, bat’s blood, and powdered viper. A small current with a long history: electrolysis hair removal Before the invention of electrolysis, hairs were removed only for medical reasons. The techniques used, such as hot needles inserted into the hair follicle, were more like torture. Ingrown hair lashes are a medical condition that can cause blindness due to irritation of the eyeball. GALVANIC ELECTROLYSIS The American ophthalmologist Charles Michel, who regularly removed ingrown eyelashes, wanted a more humane solution. He found it in galvanic electrolysis. With the help of a metal plate, a battery, a needle, and electrodes, he applied a current that destroyed the hair follicle. Not only could the hair be removed this way, but it also turned out that the hair did not grow back. In 1875, Charles Michel published a report on his findings. This marked the start of the use of electrolysis for non-medical purposes. Around 1900, the first commercial electrolysis equipment appeared on the market. They were very slow but effective: 5 minutes per hair where needed. Since then, because of developments in physics, market progress has been made. INVENTION OF THERMOLYSIS Thermolysis was developed in the 1920s. This method was faster and cheaper than galvanic electrolysis and gave less pain and irritation. Unfortunately, thermolysis was also less effective: more than half of the hairs grew back. BLEND ELECTROLYSIS HAIR REMOVAL In 1938, electrologist Henri St. Pierre and engineer Arthur Hinkel came up with the idea of combining the reliability of galvanic electrolysis with the comfort of thermolysis. This led to the blend technique, which became a hit. And for good reasons: the blend method destroys the hair follicle in 6-10 seconds. NEW DISCOVERIES In the meantime, scientists gained more and more knowledge about the human hair cycle. They discovered that the real growth brain of the hair follicle responsible for regrowth is not at the bottom. It appeared to be at 1/3rd of the surface of the follicle (see image). So, not only the bottom part of the hair follicle had to be destroyed, but the complete bottom 2/3rd. This new discovery gave thermolysis a new chance to prove its efficacy. If used with skill (killing the brain of the hair follicle) thermolysis is highly effective on straight hairs. The blend technique is still the only effective method for curved follicles. FDA APPROVAL In the nineties laser for hair removal was invented. But in the end, nothing can compete with electrolysis hair removal. Various studies agree electrolysis is the only type of hair removal with lasting results. This was confirmed in 2007 by the Food and Drug Association (FDA) in the USA. Since then, only electrolysis may be advertised as a method of permanent hair removal, with 150 years of proven safety. WHY CHOOSE ELECTROLYSIS? There are new hair removal methods and products appearing on the market almost weekly, often with amazing promises. The potential client needs reassurance that they are choosing the right method. The box offers a list which could be used in leaflets and on posters, or simply to remind you why! What electrolysis offers your clients? © © © © Electrolysis has a safe and proven track record. Electrolysis has been used safely and effectively since 1870. Electrolysis has been proven to be permanent. Electrolysis offers freedom from the constant use of temporary methods of hair removal. © Electrolysis allows freedom from the hair growth which causes individuals distress or that they simply don’t like the look of. © Electrolysis treatment is not restricted to certain hair or skin colors. © Electrolysis treatment is easier than you think, with a competent operator. PROFESSIONAL TIP It was proven many years ago that shaving doesn’t affect hair growth and yet many people believe it does. Part of your role as an Electrologist is to educate clients and addressing this myth is a major issue as it has implications for hair management KEY TERMS Galvanic current: Direct current – the constant flow of electrons along a conductor in one direction with no change of polarity LASER HAIR REMOVAL VS ELECTROLYSIS: WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE? This comparative study will demonstrate how laser hair removal and electrolysis hair removal work, and why electrolysis is the only truly permanent hair removal technique for all types of hair and skin color. What are the major conclusions of our comparative study? © Electrolysis is the only method of hair removal that can claim ‘permanent hair removal’ © Electrolysis works for everybody on all hairs and all skin types © Laser doesn’t work in 60 percent of the cases ELECTRICITY & ELECTROLYSIS This section covers electricity and electrolysis, and it will enable you to: © Have a basic understanding of electrical science © Recognize and understand the components of an epilator © Understand the three main electrolysis techniques, how they are achieved electrically and their basic methods of application © Appreciate alternative epilators and electrolysis equipment. Modern electrolysis equipment is standardized, and a detailed knowledge of electricity is no longer required for the competent practice of electrolysis, for example how much do you know about the electrical systems of your TV, DVD etc? However, electricity is interesting, and the following will give you a better understanding of your equipment and electrolysis in general. It will also allow you to make educated choices when you are buying equipment. ELECTRICAL SCIENCE Electricity is the flow of electrons (negatively charged particles) along a conductor, such as an electric cable or an electrolysis needle. Imagine that the electrons represent water flowing in a stream. Electrons (water) flow from an area where there is an excess of electrons (water) to an area where there is less. Electrons flow from negative to positive. – – – Lack of electrons Excess of electrons – – Electron flow – – + + – – + Negative pole Positive pole – + Electrons flow from negative to positive All matter (every substance in the world) is made of molecules, and the molecule All matter (every substance in the world) is made of molecules, and the is the smallest part of matter still that maintains its individual physical and molecule is the smallest part that of matter still maintains its individual chemical Molecules are divided into atoms. example, physicalcharacteristics. and chemical characteristics. Molecules are divided intoFor atoms. For a example, a molecule water (H2of O)two consists of two atoms of hydrogen and on molecule of water (H2O)ofconsists atoms of hydrogen and one atom one atom on oxygen. oxygen. H atom H atom The centre of an atom contains Ha nucleus, consisting of one or more positive H H H atom atom atom atom protons and a varying number of neutral neutrons. Rotating in orbit around the oxygen oxygen oxygen oxygen + = atom atom atom atom positive nucleus are the smaller negative electrons. H much H atom atom 1 oxygen molecule + 2 hydrogen molecules = 2 water molecules Sources Which Generate the Flow of Electrical Current There is no shortage of electricity; it is abundant. The problem is finding new, practical, and non-polluting means of generating it. To produce electricity (i.e., move electrons), some form of energy must be used to force the free electrons out of their orbits. The six basic sources which can be used to produce electricity are: 1 Friction – electricity produced by rubbing two materials together. 2 Pressure – electricity produced by applying pressure to a crystal of certain materials. 3 Heat – electricity produced by heating the junction of a thermo-couple. 4 Light – electricity produced by light striking photo-sensitive materials. 5 Magnetism – electricity produced by the relative movement of a magnet and a wire that results in cutting through lines of force. Lack of Excess of – electrons + – action electrons 6 Chemical – electricity produced by chemical reactions in an electric cell. – – + – Electron flow Magnetism and chemical currently the – two most practical means + of – action are – – generating current flow. Negative pole Positive pole The electric circuit an electric current is the flow of – + electricity (the flow of electrons). For a current to keep Electrons flowmust frombe negative to positive flowing there a continuous path (or circuit) from the generating source of the electricity through all Allthe matter (every substance the world) made conductors back to theinsource. Your is radio, forof molecules, and the moleculeoperates is the smallest partyou of matter still maintains its individual example, only after turn onthat the switch to physical and chemicalthe characteristics. Molecules are divided into atoms. For complete electrical circuit. example, a molecule of water (H2O) consists of two atoms of hydrogen and one atom on oxygen. Direct Current from Batteries H H oxygen atom + oxygen atom H H H atom atom H atom H atom atom = H atom oxygen atom oxygen atom atom atom 1 oxygen molecule O2 + 2 hydrogen molecules 2H2 = 2 water molecules 2H2O Formation of water from hydrogen and oxygen The centre of an atom contains a nucleus, consisting of one or more positive EPILATION 212 batteries The electric circuit An electric current is the flow of electricity (the flow of electrons). For a An Italian physicist called Alessandro Volta took Galvani’s theory and, after much current to keep flowing there must be a continuous path (or circuit) from the generating source of the electricity through all the conductors back to the examination and repetition of e had its origin in 1790 in the kitchen of Galvani’s experiments, concluded that Thermolysis: ocess of preparing frog’s leg soup, crossed high-frequency alternating current it was the moist salty tissue of the a frog’s leg and the frog’s leg convulsed. frog’s leg, which we now know was seen to her husband Luigi Galvani, who acting as an electrolyte, combined omy, he could not understand what was with the two dissimilar metals, which Three main electrolysis techniques nued producing this effect, to the caused the flow of direct current nnecting two dissimilar metals to a frog’s which caused the convulsing frog’s Blend: Galvanic electrolysis: of thermolysis current born. flowing in a fantasticcombination product was about todirectbe leg. Volta duplicated this effect in and galvanic one direction 1800 with his invention of an early vani explained the erroneous theory of form of the dry cell battery; this ny scientists on the brink of a great was then followed by the first wet cell battery. thers to develop invention his theory into something d. REMEMBER Electron flow is always negative to positive dro Volta took Galvani’s and, PROFESSIONAL TIPtheory The more youafter understand about how electricity works, the of Galvani’s experiments, concluded that it the more able you will be to make less apprehensive you will be about it and og’s leg,sound whichjudgements we now know acting and as its practical use, particularly when aboutwas equipment faced with athe ‘pushy’ salesperson two dissimilar metals, which caused d the convulsing frog’s leg. VoltaDirect Current (DC his invention of an early form of the dry In a direct current, flow continuously in the same direction. In direct en followed by the firstthe wetelectrons cell battery. current or ‘galvanic’ electrolysis the electrons flow from the machine source, through the needle holder, and into the electrolysis needle which acts as the negative pole (negative terminal or cathode low continuously in the same direction. In electrode). From the needle, the electrons lysis the electrons flowhair from the through machine flow through the follicle, the r, and into the electrolysis needle which terminal or cathode electrode). From the – e– e– e– + Direct current flows only in one direction REMEMBER 21 ELECTROLYSIS Sources whichis generate flow of had electrical The modern battery said the to have its origin in 1790 in the kitchen of Mrs. current Luigi Galvani, who, in the process of preparing frog’s leg soup, crossed two There is no shortage of electricity; it is abundant. The problem is finding new, practical and non-polluting means of generating it. In order to produce dissimilar metallic utensils frog’s legto force and the frog’s leg convulsed. When she electricity (i.e. move electrons), some on form ofa energy must be used the free electrons out of their orbits. explained what she had seen to her husband Luigi Galvani, who was a respected The six basic sources which can be used to produce electricity are: Friction – electricity produced by rubbing not two materials together. professor of1anatomy, he could understand what was taking place. Even while 2 Pressure – electricity produced by applying pressure to a crystal of certain materials. producing this effect, to the amazement of his students, by he continued 3 Heat – electricity produced by heating the junction of a thermo-couple. Light – electricity produced by lightmetals striking photo-sensitive connecting4 two dissimilar to amaterials. frog’s leg, he did not comprehend what a operates only after you– electricity turnproduced onby the 5 Magnetism the relativeswitch movement of a magnet and a wire thatwas results in about cutting throughto linesbe of force. fantastic product born. Although accurate in his facts, Galvani 6 Chemical action – electricity produced by chemical reactions in an electric cell.erroneous theory of ‘animal electricity’. He, like so many scientists explained the Magnetism and chemical action are currently the two most practical means of on the brink ofcurrent a great discovery, prepared the path for others to develop his generating flow. theory into something of tangible value for all humankind. fter body, through the positive electrode (also called positive terminal or anode that it ing as electrode) and back into the machine. Historically, direct current produced by a battery was known as galvanic current (after Luigi Galvani). the Therefore, the words ‘direct current’ and ‘galvanic current’ are often used interchangeably. The energy for the first galvanic electrolysis was produced by a large battery. dry y. e– e– e– – + Alternating Current (AC) In an alternating current, the current flow continuously reverses its direction. The on. In electrons move back Direct current flows onlyand in forth along the conductor as each source pole hine one direction (terminal) rapidly changes its polarity (negative to positive), in cycle with each ich back-and-forth movement. You can think of the electrons alternately being m the REMEMBER pushed and sucked back along the conductor by the machine source. In Europe, the normal household alternating current fluctuates at 50 cycles per second. An Electron flow is always electrolysis machine converts our current to the direct current required for negative to positive uced galvanic electrolysis by means of a rectifier and filter circuit. ore, Highest amount of positive current uced High Frequency Alternating Current Polarity reverses + ection. pole th ely urce. ycles g Highest amount of negative current – One cycle or ‘hertz’ One ‘alternation’ The high-frequency alternating current required for the thermolysis modality (also called diathermy, shortwave diathermy, radio frequency (RF) or just high frequency (HF) is produced by an oscillator. An oscillator increases the frequency of our household alternating current to the millions of cycles per second required for thermolysis. Alternating current Key Terms: © Thermolysis: Epilation carried out by oscillating, alternating current of high frequency. Also known as ‘diathermy’, ‘shortwave diathermy’, ‘radio frequency’ or ‘high frequency’ © Galvanic electrolysis: Epilation carried out by direct current flowing in one direction © Blend: Epilation carried out using a combination of thermolysis and These frequencies are in the range of radio waves, but machine frequencies are regulated in order that there is no conflict with radio wave transmission, although with older equipment there may be some interference. Some computerized equipment is in the high-frequency range. The thermolysis machine is giving and taking away electrical energy almost simultaneously. Some of the electrical energy is lost to the surrounding air and furniture. The rapid high frequency to and from movement of the electrical energy focusing in the ‘tiny’ electrolysis needle stimulates the adjacent moisture molecules in the hair follicle to vibrate, which results in friction causing destructive heat energy. Friction from vibration can be likened to the heat generated by rubbing sticks together to start a fire. Electrical measurements Electrical measurements are easier to understand if, once again, current flow is compared with water flowing along a stream. Ampere (amount) EPILATION 214 The ampere is the unit of measurement for current flow through a conductor (the current to thegiven direct current for galvanic electrolysis by means of a total amount of water passing any point required in a stream). Galvanic electrolysis and filter circuit. uses the measurement ofrectifier milliamperes (1/1000 of an ampere, since an ampere is too large an amount). A range of 0 to 1.0 milliampere is used in galvanic KEY TERMS High-frequency alternating current electrolysis and the blend, with the most common being 0.3 to 0.7 milliampere. Thermolysis: Epilation carried Household fuses are most alternating frequently 13 ampere fuses. The high-frequency current required for the thermolysis modality out by oscillating, alternating (also called diathermy, shortwave diathermy, radio frequency (RF) or just current of high frequency. Also Thermolysis uses megahertz (1,000,000Hz). Theby range of megahertz used in the high frequency (HF) is produced an oscillator. An oscillator increases known as ‘diathermy’, of ouras household to the millions of cycles per thermolysis is from to as much 27MHzalternating on somecurrent computerized machines. ‘shortwave diathermy’, ‘radio 0 up frequency second required for thermolysis. frequency’ or ‘high frequency’ Galvanic electrolysis: Full-wave Smoothing Volt (pressure) Reduces rectification of DC intensity Epilation carried out by direct voltage (AC to DC) DC current controlled current flowing in one The volt is a measurement of electrical pressure. It is the force that pushes the direction Blend: Epilation current carried out along a conductor. A comparison would be a pump pushing electrical Negative electrode (–) using a combination of (needle) Step down natural occurrence of stream Rheostat water along a stream, or the more water falling Rectifier Filter thermolysis and galvanic transformer control Positive electrode Switch electrolysis down a hill from a higher area to a lower area. Household current in the is 240 (+) UK (indifferent) Household plug (AC) volts. The anatomy of a thermolysis machine + + + 0 0 0 – – – 500,000Hz (500KHz) 1,750,000Hz (1.75KHz) 13,560,000Hz (13.56KHz) The alternating current frequencies used in thermolysis These frequencies are in the range of radio waves, but machine frequencies are regulated in order that there is no conflict with radio wave transmission, Ohm (resistance) An ohm is the unit of measurement of electrical resistance. When the pressure of volts pushes the amp of electrons along the conducting wire, they meet resistance. Think of water running into obstacles, such as boulders in a stream. One ohm is equal to the resistance of a circuit in which a force of one volt maintains a current flow of one ampere. Conductors, such as copper or stainless steel, offer little resistance, whereas plastic and rubber offer great resistance. Dry skin is a bad conductor, but wet skin is a good conductor. OHM’S LAW IT TAKES A PRESSURE OF ONE VOLT TO PUSH A CURRENT OF ONE AMPERE THROUGH A RESISTANCE OF ONE OHM. Watt (Work or Power) The watt is the unit of electrical work or power. Watts equal amperes times volts (W = A × V). Household light bulbs ordinarily require 60–100 watts, and 746 watts are roughly equivalent to one horsepower. Your household electricity bill is charged in kilowatt hours: 100-watt light bulb burning for 10 hours equals one kilowatt hour. Electrolysis machines are economical to operate, requiring about 35 watts of power. TECHNICAL TIP AVOW is a mnemonic to help people remember electrical units of measurement: Ampere, Volts, Ohm, and Watts. NB: To avow is to make a promise, so you ‘avow’ to remember this TECHNICAL TIP The positive electrode is also known as the indifferent electrode because its action is of no consequence i.e., is indifferent, in galvanic electrolysis, other than completing the electrical circuit Electrodes and Completing the Circuit In galvanic electrolysis, a complete circuit is required. The electrolysis needle acts as the negative electrode (cathode) and is connected to the negative terminal or outlet point. The indifferent plate or bar acts as the positive electrode (anode) and is connected to the positive terminal or outlet point. Like flowing water, the electrical current or electrons always take the easiest route. They flow from the machine (power source) through the needle holder to the needle. Then they pass from the needle through the conducting saltwater tissue fluid in the hair follicle, taking the shortest route through the body (generally the skin) to the positive electrode (metal plate or bar) and back into the machine. Don’t be concerned about clients wearing rings. Rings touching the positive electrode do not present a big problem because the ring becomes part of the positive electrode; however, the current may cause some discoloration of certain jewelry and will detract the current flow. It is usual practice to cover the bar by wrapping it with a flat sponge, damp gauze, tissue, or disposable wipe. In thermolysis, the alternating current produces a high-frequency electromagnetic field around the needle, stimulating the water molecules in the hair follicle to vibrate, which produces heat. The actual high-frequency current is largely dissipated, some of the current goes through the body into space, and some returns to the machine. In thermolysis, therefore, you do not need a positive (indifferent) electrode to complete the circuit. Conductors and Insulators Electric currents (like water in a river) like to take the easiest path. Conductors permit electric current (electrons) to flow through them easily. Examples of good conductors are copper wire, stainless steel needles, salt solutions (found throughout the human body) and wet skin. Poor conductors or insulators resist or stop the flow of electric current. Examples of insulators are rubber, sebum, and dehydrated skin. EPILATION 216 Everyone is familiar with copper conducting electric wires being wrapped with rubber or plastic insulators. If we were holding on to a live wire, but were wearing thick rubber-soled shoes, the rubber would resist the flow of current through our bodies. The rubber in the shoes acts as a dam, stopping the continuing flow of the current, so very little passes through us. Needle emits direct (–) current Direct current source – Electron flow + Galvanic flow: negatively charged electrons flow from the negative pole to the positive pole Like flowing water, the electrical current or electrons always take the easiest route. They flow from the machine (power source) through the needle holder to the needle. Then they pass from the needle through the However, if we were standing in water, the current would continue to flow through us, since water is a good conductor. ‘Ground wires’ conduct electricity to the earth and are excellent conductors. They act as a safety feature, removing unwanted electricity flow. In a household, the ground circuits are connected to metal pipes which go from your house into the ground, or to wires, which lead to metal rods buried in the ground. ANATOMY OF THE HAIR Anatomy refers to the science of the structure of living organisms and physiology refers to the science associated with their functions. To understand the different types of hair removal we need to give a little anatomy lesson first. The hair is in a downward inversion of the skin called the hair follicle. It gets his nutrients from a blood supply at the bottom of the follicle. At the bottom of the follicle, you also find the pigment cells that give the hair its color. The growth cells are located at about one third from the skin’s surface. They are the real bad guys in our unwanted hair story. HAIR Having a basic knowledge of the skin and the part it plays as a major organ of the body helps in the understanding of the important contributory role played by the hair. Hair grows from the largest organ of the body – the skin. Each hair develops from the hair follicle as part of the stratum germinativum layer of the epidermis and forms three distinct types of hair depending on: (i) the needs of the body. (ii) the health and wellbeing of the body; and (iii) the time of life. The hair provides a protective covering for the whole body, except for the lips, soles of the feet, palms of the hands and parts of the sexual organs. Hair follicles are formed in the body at approximately eight weeks of gestation and develop to produce lanugo hair which, in turn, forms into vellus and terminal hairs. From early development, hair plays an important role in the protective functions of the body, offering the first line of defense through insulation, camouflage, entrapment, and cushioning. © Scalp and body hair help to keep the body warm as well as form a protective covering helping to guard against the sun’s harmful rays. © Eyebrows and eyelashes help to prevent sweat and dust from entering the eyes, whilst tiny hairs in the nose and ears can entrap harmful particles preventing them from entering further into the body. © Areas of coarse hair help to cushion the body against superficial knocks and blows. © Pubic hair protects the delicate underlying organs whilst underarm hair provides protection for underlying glands. Lanugo Hair Lanugo hairs are fine and soft and present all over the body of a fetus from the third to fifth month of gestation. They are lacking in pigment and act as a temporary protective covering. Lanugo hairs are shed from the body during the final trimester and replaced with a second generation of lanugo hair followed by vellus and terminal hairs which offer greater levels of protection for specific areas of the body. Vellus Hair Vellus hairs are thin (approximately 0.1mm) and short (less than 2cm). They form a downy covering of a large majority of the body. Vellus hairs have shallow roots and are generally lacking in pigment. If stimulated, vellus hairs in certain regions of the body may be transformed into terminal hairs. Terminal Hair Terminal hairs are thicker (up to 0.6mm) and longer (more than 2cm). They develop from deep seated roots and are found protecting more vulnerable areas of the body. Terminal hairs are pigmented and form the coarse covering of vulnerable areas associated with: © The scalp, eyelashes, and eyebrows in children; present at birth and known as asexual hair © The axilla (underarms) and pubic hairs which develop at puberty together with the hair of the lower legs and forearms in males and females and classified as ambisexual hair © The coarse facial and body hair in males post puberty and the coarse male pattern hair growth that may be present in females because of hormone imbalance, e.g., menopause, known as sexual hair. As part of the integumentary system, each hair type grows out of a hair follicle, the walls of which are a continuation of the epidermal stratum germinativum. As the hairs exit the skin via a follicular pore, they are hardened structures made up of two or three layers of keratinized cells collectively known as the hair shaft. STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR Each hair follicle is made up of a permanent upper follicle and an impermanent lower follicle which together contribute to the formation of the different types of hairs and are directly associated with their health and welfare. The structures associated with the upper and lower hair follicles include: © The outer root sheath, forming the descending projection of the hair follicle © The vitreous membrane which forms a connection between the hair follicle and the cells of the dermis © The dermal papilla and cord which connect the whole unit with the underlying blood supply © The hair bulb which contains the germinating matrix from which the hair develops The inner root sheath which forms the impermanent length of the hair follicle. PRINCIPLES OF HAIR GROWTH Hair growth is cyclical, which means that it undergoes several changes throughout its development. The hair growth cycle is not synchronized, each hair will enter a phase of the cycle at a different time. There are three main stages involved with the hair growth cycle including: © Anagen – active, growing phase. This phase lasts from 2 to 8 years depending on the region of the body; 90 per cent of all hairs are in the anagen phase. © Catagen – changing, regression phase. This is a short phase lasting 2–3 weeks when the matrix cells stop reproducing. © Telogen – resting, quiescent phase. This lasts for approximately 3–4 months, allowing the hair to become completely detached and eventually fall out. Stage One – Anagen The whole process of hair growth commences with the anagen stage when the hair cells present within the germinating matrix section of the hair bulb are activated into reproducing replicas of themselves. This is initiated through activity within the dermal papilla and cord. Hormones present in the blood supply associated with the dermal papilla are picked up by target cells within the hair bulb via the dermal cord. These target cells can interpret the hormonal message and activate the cells to replicate themselves through the simple cell division associated with mitosis. As the cells reproduce further, they build to form the ascending inner root sheath which in turn forms a continuous external bond with the descending outer root anagen catagen telogen Histological sections of the hair follicle at different phases. The inner root sheath molds the developing hair shaft and holds it firmly in place. The inner root sheath cuticle contains downward facing cells which interlock with upward facing cells of the hair cuticle. This forms a continuous bond until the permanent section of the hair follicle is reached. During this development process, keratinization takes place in the Henle layer, followed by the cuticle and finally the Huxley layer of the inner root sheath. This results in a hardening process which forms the layers of the hair shaft that protrude out onto the surface of the skin. As the hair shaft passes the sebaceous gland, sebum is secreted providing an oily covering to the extending hair shaft. Stage Two – Catagen As the hair shaft exits the skin forming a fully formed hair, the cells of the matrix gradually stop reproducing and the hair bulb begins to ascend the hair follicle whilst the dermal papilla is dragged upwards. The outer root sheath shrinks because of a process of programmed cell death known as apoptosis that occurs naturally as part of the normal development associated with the catagen stage. The cells undergo a process of regression whereby changes take place that gradually revert the follicle back to an immature level of functioning. Stage Three – Telogen The outer root sheath shrinks back to its permanent level forming a clubbed hair root. This means that the hair shaft is free of all connections with the hair follicle and can be shed from the skin. The whole cycle of hair growth can commence afresh. When the hairs are actively growing during the anagen phase of hair growth, stem cells from the bulge region of the follicle migrate along the outer root sheath and take up position on the outside of the hair bulb. During the catagen stage, the stem cells meet the papilla and begin to mature and differentiate forming into specialized cells. As a result, the cells acquire the ability to reproduce a new hair follicle. These cells produce the ascending part of the hair follicle including the inner root sheath and the new hair. The start of the anagen phase is initiated towards the end of the telogen phase. FACTORS AFFECTING HAIR GROWTH Everything has the potential to affect hair growth from the genetic make-up of our cells to the way in which we take care of our bodies and the type of environment we are exposed to. However, it is the links with the rest of the body that initiate the various levels of changes in hair growth including the following influences from the body’s main systems. © The central nervous system, responsible for coordinating genetic programming and activating the body systems through the formation of electrical impulses. © The respiratory system, responsible for processing the oxygen vital for cellular survival from the air breathed into the body and ensuring the release of cellular waste in the form of carbon dioxide with the outward breath. © The digestive system, responsible for processing the nutrients necessary for efficient and effective cellular function. © The endocrine system, responsible for the release of hormones as chemical messengers informing parts of the body to effect changes as a process of human survival and development. © The circulatory systems, responsible for transporting oxygen, nutrients and hormones to the cells and waste products away from the cells. © The urinary system, responsible for the elimination of cellular waste from the body in the form of urine. As a result of this whole-body activity, the causes of hair growth fall into three distinct categories: congenital, topical, and systemic. Congenital The term congenital refers to a condition that is present from birth, that is, it is genetically programmed to be present. Inherited hair growth patterns fall into the category of normal congenital hair growth. However, there are certain abnormal congenital conditions which present abnormal patterns of hair growth as a symptom. Such conditions are rare and require medical treatment. Topical Topical hair growth is local to areas of the body. Continuous stimulation of an area of the skin can, in some circumstances, be the cause of changes in both skin and hair and lead to topical hair growth. For example, if blood circulation is stimulated it may increase cellular activity in the stratum germinativum, causing the skin to thicken and the hair to grow coarser and deeper as a result. In these situations, the body is attempting to protect the area under attack more effectively. Systemic The term systemic refers to the body as a whole. Systemic hair growth can be classified as both normal and abnormal. Changes in hair growth associated with puberty, pregnancy and menopause are classified as being normal systemic changes. © During puberty, the brain alerts the endocrine glands to produce sex hormones which are secreted into the blood supply, picked up by target cells and have the effect of stimulating changes in the growth pattern of hair follicles of both sexes in certain areas of the body associated with ambisexual hair, such as terminal hair growth in the pubis and axilla. © During pregnancy, changes in the secretion of hormones associated with the development of the fetus sometimes create an imbalance which may result in a thickening of vellus hair growth. This hair growth reverts to normal as hormone secretions normalize after pregnancy. © During menopause the brain calls for a decrease in the levels of female hormones being produced in the body which in turn initiates the cessation of the female menstrual cycle and fertility. An imbalance in hormone levels occurs as androgens (male hormones) become more dominant, resulting in male characteristics such as male pattern hair growth. © These changes are activated by the secretion of hormones in line with the natural life cycles of human development. However, abnormal secretions of hormones from either over- or under-active endocrine glands can lead to abnormal systemic hair growth, including excessive hair growth and partial/ total hair loss that is neither expected nor desired. This type of hair growth is a distressing symptom of a medical condition that requires clinical diagnosis and specialist advice in its treatment. © The distribution, color, texture, and shape of hair are associated with genetic factors and differ among the various races around the world, for example: © People of Caucasian and northern European descent generally have straight or loosely waved scalp hair with light to medium amounts of facial/body hair distribution. © People of Latin descent have scalp hair that is coarser, straighter, and darker than that of Caucasians, with a heavier distribution of facial and body hair growth. © People of eastern descent have scalp hair that is very coarse and straight and there tends to be only a light distribution of facial/body hair present. © People of Afro-Caribbean descent have scalp hair that is tightly curled with a light distribution of facial/body hair growth. Hair also contributes to the unique appearance associated with each individual person and as such contributes greatly to the way we feel about ourselves, affecting how attractive we and other people view us to be. Hair plays an important role in the recognition of a person and to a lesser extent in identifying which part of the world they may be from. Hair also features highly in a person’s non-verbal communication and harsh judgements are often made based on excessive hair growth or extremes of hair loss as well as hair style and color. Differing views on the attractiveness of body hair vary within the different cultures of the world as well as with the changing fashions of the time. This is one reason why the need for hair removal techniques forms a large part of an HRP’s working life. Determining the correct choice of hair removal technique will depend largely on the underpinning knowledge associated with anatomy and physiology as well as the information gained from a client consultation. Therefore, a combination of theoretical knowledge and practical skill is a basic requirement of all HREs. KEY TERMS: Andropause: The male equivalent of the female menopause A–Z OF HAIR FACTS © Alopecia – loss of hair caused by hair follicles being unable to produce new hairs. © Anagen – growing stage of hair development. © Canities – white hair, which is due to a lack of melanin forming in new hairs. Associated with ageing and/or hormone imbalance. © Catagen – changing stage of hair development. © Club hairs – hairs have a club end due to the disintegration of the hair bulb during the telogen stage of hair growth. © Corkscrew hairs – distortion of the hair follicle resulting in tightly curled hair shaft. © Curly hair – emerges from flattened follicles. © Embedded hairs – hairs that do not emerge from the skin. The skin grows over the follicle trapping the hair below resulting in a small lump on the surface of the skin. © Folliculitis – Barber’s rash – affects areas of facial hair growth and is characterized by redness and swelling in the hair follicles. © Hairy naevus – malformation of the skin containing a hair. © Hirsutism – abnormal androgen-dependent hair growth characterized by male pattern coarse pigmented hair growth in females. © Hypertrichosis – increase of vellus hair growth. © Idiopathic hirsutism – excess hair growth with cause unknown. © In-growing hairs – hairs that grow just beneath the surface of the skin. Prone to becoming infected. © © © © Involuted hair – hair follicle enfolds upon itself during catagen. Lanugo hair – fine fetal hair. Pediculosis capitis – infestation of the scalp by head lice. Pili multigemini – two or more hairs growing from the same follicle each having a separate papilla and root sheaths. © Re-growth hairs – hairs that re-grow after treatment. Straight hair – emerges from round follicles. © Sycosis – inflammation of the hair follicles commonly affecting the beard area of men in their thirties or forties. © Superfluous hair – unwanted hair growth because of heredity, hormonal changes and/or stimulation to the area. © © © © Telogen – terminating stage of hair development. Terminal hair – coarse, pigmented hair. Tinea barbae – ringworm fungal infection affecting the face and neck. Tombstone hair – when a new anagen hair in the same follicle as an old telogen hair has been treated with epilation, the telogen hair is removed and the anagen hair as it progresses to the surface becomes thicker and darker than normal. Resulting tombstone hairs naturally fall out because of the prior treatment. © Vellus hair – soft downy hair. © Virgin hairs – hairs that have not been treated. Wavy hair – emerges from oval hair follicles. ELECTROLYSIS FOR HIRSUTISM ELECTROLYSIS HAIR REMOVAL FOR HIRSUTISM Hirsutism is a condition of unwanted, male-pattern hair growth in women. Hirsutism results in excessive amounts of hair on facial and body areas in women where men typically grow hair — face, chest and back. Hirsutism refers to abnormal hair growth in women in androgen-dependent sites while hypertrichosis is excess hair growth in any body site. Hirsutism affects between 5–15% of all women across all ethnic backgrounds. Depending on the data, approximately 40% of women have some degree of unwanted facial hair. Hirsutism can cause much psychological distress and social difficulties. Unwanted facial hair often leads to the avoidance of social situations and to symptoms of anxiety and depression. Hirsutism can be devastating to a woman’s confidence and self-esteem. CAUSES OF HIRSUTISM Prior to puberty, the human body is covered in very fine, vellus hair. This is replaced during puberty in certain parts of the body by thick, long, darker hair known as terminal hair under the influence of androgens. In women with hirsutism some vellus hair is transformed into terminal hair, which is not supposed to happen. Hirsutism can be caused by either an increased level of androgens, or an oversensitivity of hair follicles to those androgens. Although androgens are considered “male” hormones, women also have and need them, but in smaller quantities. Whilst hirsutism itself is not a serious medical condition, it may well be the symptom of an underlying cause for concern. The most important point to note is that, if you are a woman with unusual and excessive hair growth you must seek proper medical advice from your physician prior to any hair removal treatment being considered. About half of all cases of unwanted female hair growth are due to high levels of “male” androgen hormones. PCOS Polycystic Ovary Syndrome (PCOS), the most common cause of hirsutism, is a hormonal imbalance caused by a combination of genetic and environmental factors. The main symptom of PCOS is usually the appearance of small and multiple cysts on the ovaries, but this is not always the case. TREATMENT OF HIRSUTISM As outlined, it is likely that there are underlying medical conditions causing hirsutism and therefore the treatment will often involve a multi-pronged approach. Prescribed medication can be used to treat the symptoms and redress the hormone imbalance causing the hirsutism e.g., oral contraceptive pills containing antiandrogenic or topical creams. In addition, hair removal methods can be used to treat the area to improve cosmetic appearance. There are several options, and which one is best and most appropriate for you, is your choice to make. There is, however, only one option currently approved by the FDA that achieves permanent hair removal (as opposed to permanent hair reduction), namely electrolysis hair removal. Electrolysis hair removal works by sending a small amount of energy into each hair follicle via a very fine probe to disable the follicle and cause the hair to fall out. DOES ELECTROLYSIS HAIR REMOVAL WORK FOR HIRSUTISM? Evidence supports that the use of electrolysis for permanent hair removal in localized areas, with repeated treatments, achieves 15% – 50% permanent hair loss. The biggest problem with electrolysis is that it treats individual hairs and is therefore very time-consuming, expensive, and likely to be impractical for larger areas such as the back. If hairs are dark and skin is light, laser hair removal is probably the best solution for permanent hair reduction. A variety of factors influence the exact quantification of the results of electrolysis in facial hirsutism: Hirsutism is a dynamic process. At birth there are 1000 follicles per square centimeter in the facial area and no new hair follicles are developed after birth. However, follicles may continue to be activated throughout life by new androgen production and fine vellus hairs may be converted to terminal hairs. The rate of hair growth in any given individual also tends to fluctuate for unknown reasons. The average person has 1,000 follicles per square inch. However, that does not mean one grows 1,000 hairs. Where a man may have 100, to 500 visible hairs in a square inch, a woman may have 0 to 25. You must understand that hormonal problems (like PCOS) work in such a way as to recruit new follicles to start growing hair, where they never grew them before. The severity of the problem defines how long it takes for new follicles to be recruited, and how many at a time are stimulated in that term. So, until one arrests the problem that is causing the new hair recruitment, one will continuously gain new hairs, and one may have to come back forever. Many patients are trying to suppress androgen effects with drugs such as dexamethasone and/or estrogen combinations and many were also trying to block androgen effects with spironolactone. Drugs are often taken at varying intervals and the effects are uncertain and imprecise. CONCLUSION In conclusion, it is fair to say that available evidence does support the use of electrolysis for hair removal as part of a larger treatment programmed for small, localized areas. For larger areas, laser treatment can be used to achieve permanent hair reduction. Any treatment will be long-term and probably lifelong. HAIR REMOVAL OPTIONS TEMPORARY SOLUTION: SHAVING AND PLUCKING Shaving and plucking will cut or remove the hair, but as the follicle is left untouched, hair will always grow back. So, this solution is temporary and must be repeated regularly. The side effects most seen with this hair removal method are ingrown hairs. Also, if the hair is very dense a shadow often remains visible after shaving. Shaving at home is the most practiced method of hair removal. LASER HAIR REMOVAL: PERMANENT HAIR REDUCTION Laser hair removal technology became widespread from the 1990s onwards. The laser is basically a lamp that produces a certain wavelength of light. This light is absorbed by the pigment cells at the bottom of the hair follicle, heating them up and destroying their surrounding tissue. But here comes the problem: laser doesn’t work in 60% of cases. Why? Well, imagine the hair is not brown but blond. What blonde girls are missing is not brain cells, but pigment cells. So: laser doesn’t work for blond, grey or red hair. Imagine the skin is not white but pigmented. Can you image the explosion at this level? Laser would burn the skin. So: Laser cannot be used on dark skin. Finally: remember the real bad guys, the growth cells? They don’t contain pigment so chances are high the hair will just grow back in time anyway, brown, or not. Therefore, the FDA only allows laser treatment to claim they can cause ‘permanent hair REDUCTION not ‘permanent hair REMOVAL. ELECTROLYSIS: PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL In electrolysis hair removal, a small probe is introduced in the natural opening of the skin. There is no perforation of the skin, making this introduction painless. The upper part of the probe is insulated as not to damage the skin. A small electrical current is subsequently sent through the probe which will heat up the surrounding tissue and destroy it. It will not only destroy the blood supply of the hair follicle but also the real bad guys: the growth cells. Therefore, electrolysis is the only FDA approved method that can claim the term “permanent hair REMOVAL”. So, no matter which color of your hair or skin: electrolysis works for Everybody. All unwanted hairs can be removed permanently with electrolysis hair removal. What Happens to Your Hair Follicle During Electrolysis? For individuals interested in permanent hair removal for their faces or bodies, electrolysis is the only truly permanent option. Unlike shaving, waxing, creams, or even laser hair removal, it is unique in that it prevents hair from returning in the future. Here’s how electrolysis works and how it affects your hair follicles. Does Electrolysis Kill the Follicle? When the pulse of electricity is sent through the probe and into your hair follicle, it essentially cauterizes, or burns, the follicle. This renders it unable to produce hair in the future, but only when the electrical pulse reaches the follicle while it is in an active growth phase. Otherwise, if the follicle is in a dormant phase, or even in a transitional phase, the electrical current will have little to no effect. Therefore, most patients must return several times for procedures. Though the current can kill the follicle and render it useless, it’s anyone’s guess as to whether a certain follicle is in its growth phase. What to Expect as Far as Regrowth Because most of the follicles treated during a session will be in a growth phase, most of them will never regrow. Nonetheless, there will always be some “stubborn” hairs that seem to continue to return, even after two or three sessions. Everyone is different, and the hairs you see following your electrolysis treatment could be brand-new hairs or hairs that are only now emerging from a dormant cycle. Further treatments should take care of these. Does Electrolysis Work for All Hair Follicles? Unlike many other options for hair removal, electrolysis works for every hair follicle on your body. Each of these follicles has one purpose – to produce hair. By cauterizing them, whether they are the follicles on your face, your body, or even your scalp, electrolysis renders them useless. However, it is important to note that electrolysis is more effective on finer, lighter-colored hairs than on darker, coarser hairs. In fact, the only place that should not be treated with electrolysis is the insides of your ears and nose. Electrolysis is the only form of hair removal that effectively and permanently removes hair. While it can take several sessions to achieve the results you want, it can provide freedom unlike any other form of hair removal. Once complete, you will no longer need to shave, wax, or use creams to achieve the silky-smooth look you want. HOW MANY ELECTROLYSIS HAIR REMOVAL TREATMENTS WILL YOUR CLIENT NEED? Your client is likely to require between 8 and 12 treatments. The average time from start to finish is about 12 months. It can take anything from 8 months up to 2 years in some cases. The total number of sessions needed to remove hair permanently from a particular area will vary from person to person. But the unwanted hair that is gone will be gone forever. We realize that this will seem like a very wide timeframe, but it is just impossible to be more specific due to a big variation in response to treatment. The Number of Treatments Needed Is Influenced by The Following Factors: © Your skin — Skin type and skin sensitivity are factors that influence the result. © Hydration of your skin — Electrical current is conducted more readily in moist tissue than in dry. Moisture is vital for effective electrolysis treatment. To generate heat, the moisture molecules must vibrate and cause friction. Therefore, if the amount of moisture is limited, the heat will also be limited. © Thickness of your hair — Thicker hair is more difficult to remove. © Quantity of hair — It takes longer to remove hairs that are close together than hairs that are further apart. © Area where the hair is located — Different areas have different growth cycles. Bikini hair takes longer to clear than facial hair because the growth cycle is longer. © Hormonal balance — A variety of biologic changes (puberty, illness, emotional upset) can lead to hormonal change that can alter vellus hairs to terminal hairs and activate previously sleeping hair follicles. Estradiol can act as a brake on hair follicle cycling by delaying initiation of growing stage and by prolonging the duration of the resting stage. There are some individuals who are extremely sensitive to changes in hormonal levels. © Pain threshold — The higher your pain threshold, the longer we can continue the treatment. At 2pass Clinic, you can use local anesthesia to reduce the pain. When using local anesthetics, we can carry out longer and more intensive treatments. © Hair removal that you have already tried in the past —If you have previously had epilation or waxing, your hair follicle may now be deformed. This makes it more difficult to insert the needle. Also, it is important to know that hair removed by plucking, waxing or failed electrolysis may not reappear until months later. The regrowth time for a plucked hair will vary with the body area, but t