Barbering - Men's Hair Cutting PDF

## Unit Content This section provides guidance on the recommended knowledge and skills required to enable you to achieve each of the learning outcomes in this unit. Your tutor/assessor will ensure you have the opportunity to cover all of the unit content. ### Outcome 1: Be able to prepare for a cu...

## Unit Content This section provides guidance on the recommended knowledge and skills required to enable you to achieve each of the learning outcomes in this unit. Your tutor/assessor will ensure you have the opportunity to cover all of the unit content. ### Outcome 1: Be able to prepare for a cutting service **Preparation of self:** * Clothes (salon requirements for uniform, clean/ironed clothes, non-restrictive, closed in low heel shoes), * Hair (clean, healthy, manageable, off face), * Personal hygiene (clean body, teeth, workable length clean nails, deodorant, no overpowering perfume/aftershave), * Personal protective equipment (gloves, apron, prevent dermatitis), * Minimal jewellery, * Positive attitude, * Ready to greet. **Preparation of client:** * Remove client's outer clothing, * Protect against damage, * Ensure client relaxed and comfortable (posture, aids service), * Remove excessive jewellery (avoid damage to jewellery and skin), * Gown, towel, plastic cape, barrier cream, * Ensure client comfort, * Record card. **Preparation of work area:** * Chair, trolley, work station, * Equipment cleaned, * Appropriate sterilisation (barbicide, autoclave, UV, sterilising spray), * Complete destruction of all living organisms on tools and equipment, * Disinfection (remove contamination from hard surfaces, large work areas, floors and work surfaces), * Heat or chemical methods, * Use of trolley, * Safe professional presentation tools and equipment, * Visual check on large and small equipment, * Electrical equipment checked, * Portable appliance test, * Select height of chair/basin. **Consultation techniques:** * Use a variety of methods to ensure suitability of service, product and technique. **Questioning:** * Open, closed, probing. **Language:** * Appropriate level for client, use of technical/non-technical language. **Client expectations/needs:** * Listen, clarify, advise, plan. **History of hair:** * Hair tests, touch, feel, look of hair. **Advice:** * What will work, what will not? **Use visual aids:** * Shade charts, style book, portfolio, collection of pictures. **Assessing the potential of the hair:** * Clarify the condition of hair, * Previous chemical services, * Benefit to client, * Identify influencing factors, * Test hair, * Compatible with client's lifestyle, * Review findings, * What will work and what will not, * Draw conclusions, * Create a plan. **Factors that influence services:** * Previous chemical services, * Percentage of grey, * Client requirements, * Tools and equipment, * Presence of added hair, * Maintenance of style suitability. **Hair condition:** * Dry, greasy, normal, virgin, chemically treated, * Elasticity (strength of hair), * Porosity (damage to cuticle layer, the ability to absorb moisture). **Hair cut/style:** * Uniform layer, one length, short graduation, long graduation. **Temperature:** * Body heat, salon temperature, added heat. **Texture:** * Fine, medium, coarse. * * * ### Outcome 1: Be able to prepare for a cutting service (continued) **Length:** * Short, medium, long. **Density:** * Fine, medium, thick. **Growth patterns:** * Cowlick, widow's peak, nape whorl, double crown, male pattern baldness. **Skin tone:** * Fair, medium, olive, dark. **Face shape:** * Oval, round, square, oblong, heart, pear. **Head size:** * Large, medium, small. **Existing curl:** * Tight, soft, wave. **Lifestyle:** * Job, family, financial, time. **Test results:** * Good, bad, caution, positive, negative. **Hair and scalp contra-indications:** * Can prevent/alter service, product, technique. **Type of conditions:** * Skin disorders (disease, infestation, infection, defect, bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites). **Skin sensitivities:** * Reaction. **Allergies:** * Latex, nut, plasters, perfume, oil. **History of allergic reaction:** * Positive reaction to skin test, colour service. **Incompatible products:** * Metallic salts, previous chemical treatments. **Medication:** * Prescription medication. **Medical condition:** * High blood pressure, pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer. **Hair condition:** * Chemical, heat damage, environmental. **Hair disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious. **Skin disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious, cross infection (stylist to client, client to stylist). **Contagious:** * **Bacterial:** Impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis (yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pus filled spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or under skin). * **Viral:** Warts (raised, rough skin, brown), herpes (blisters). * **Fungal:** Tinea capitis/ringworm (patches, pink/grey, scaly, broken hair). * **Animal parasites:** Pediculosis capitis (head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood), scabies (parasites, mites). **Non-contagious:** * **Psoriasis** - over production of skin cells, dry, silvery, scales. * **Cicatrical alopecia** - scar. * **Alopecia totalis** - complete hair loss. * **Male pattern baldness** - hair recedes at hairline or loss crown. * **Traction alopecia** - excessive pulling, brushing curling and straightening. * **Alopecia areata** - stress, bald patches * **Seborrhea** - excessive oil. * **Dandruff** - itchy, white, skin cells. * **Dry scalp** - white, powdery. * **Eczema/dermatitis** - allergic reaction to detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping. * **Acne** - raised bumps and spots. * * * ### Outcome 2: Be able to provide a cutting service (continued) **Length:** * Short, medium, long. **Density:** * Fine, medium, thick. **Growth patterns:** * Cowlick, widow's peak, nape whorl, double crown, male pattern baldness. **Skin tone:** * Fair, medium, olive, dark. **Face shape:** * Oval, round, square, oblong, heart, pear. **Head size:** * Large, medium, small. **Existing curl:** * Tight, soft, wave. **Lifestyle:** * Job, family, financial, time. **Test results:** * Good, bad, caution, positive, negative. **Hair and scalp contra-indications:** * Can prevent/alter service, product, technique. **Type of conditions:** * Skin disorders (disease, infestation, infection, defect, bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites). **Skin sensitivities:** * Reaction. **Allergies:** * Latex, nut, plasters, perfume, oil. **History of allergic reaction:** * Positive reaction to skin test, colour service. **Incompatible products:** * Metallic salts, previous chemical treatments. **Medication:** * Prescription medication. **Medical condition:** * High blood pressure, pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer. **Hair condition:** * Chemical, heat damage, environmental. **Hair disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious. **Skin disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious, cross infection (stylist to client, client to stylist). **Contagious:** * **Bacterial:** Impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis (yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pus filled spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or under skin). * **Viral:** Warts (raised, rough skin, brown), herpes (blisters). * **Fungal:** Tinea capitis/ringworm (patches, pink/grey, scaly, broken hair). * **Animal parasites:** Pediculosis capitis (head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood), scabies (parasites, mites). **Non-contagious:** * **Psoriasis** - over production of skin cells, dry, silvery, scales. * **Cicatrical alopecia** - scar. * **Alopecia totalis** - complete hair loss. * **Male pattern baldness** - hair recedes at hairline or loss crown. * **Traction alopecia** - excessive pulling, brushing curling and straightening. * **Alopecia areata** - stress, bald patches * **Seborrhea** - excessive oil. * **Dandruff** - itchy, white, skin cells. * **Dry scalp** - white, powdery. * **Eczema/dermatitis** - allergic reaction to detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping. * **Acne** - raised bumps and spots. * * * ### Outcome 1: Be able to prepare for a cutting service (continued) **Length:** * Short, medium, long. **Density:** * Fine, medium, thick. **Growth patterns:** * Cowlick, widow's peak, nape whorl, double crown, male pattern baldness. **Skin tone:** * Fair, medium, olive, dark. **Face shape:** * Oval, round, square, oblong, heart, pear. **Head size:** * Large, medium, small. **Existing curl:** * Tight, soft, wave. **Lifestyle:** * Job, family, financial, time. **Test results:** * Good, bad, caution, positive, negative. **Hair and scalp contra-indications:** * Can prevent/alter service, product, technique. **Type of conditions:** * Skin disorders (disease, infestation, infection, defect, bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites). **Skin sensitivities:** * Reaction. **Allergies:** * Latex, nut, plasters, perfume, oil. **History of allergic reaction:** * Positive reaction to skin test, colour service. **Incompatible products:** * Metallic salts, previous chemical treatments. **Medication:** * Prescription medication. **Medical condition:** * High blood pressure, pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer. **Hair condition:** * Chemical, heat damage, environmental. **Hair disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious. **Skin disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious, cross infection (stylist to client, client to stylist). **Contagious:** * **Bacterial:** Impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis (yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pus filled spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or under skin). * **Viral:** Warts (raised, rough skin, brown), herpes (blisters). * **Fungal:** Tinea capitis/ringworm (patches, pink/grey, scaly, broken hair). * **Animal parasites:** Pediculosis capitis (head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood), scabies (parasites, mites). **Non-contagious:** * **Psoriasis** - over production of skin cells, dry, silvery, scales. * **Cicatrical alopecia** - scar. * **Alopecia totalis** - complete hair loss. * **Male pattern baldness** - hair recedes at hairline or loss crown. * **Traction alopecia** - excessive pulling, brushing curling and straightening. * **Alopecia areata** - stress, bald patches * **Seborrhea** - excessive oil. * **Dandruff** - itchy, white, skin cells. * **Dry scalp** - white, powdery. * **Eczema/dermatitis** - allergic reaction to detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping. * **Acne** - raised bumps and spots. * * * ### Outcome 2: Be able to provide a cutting service (continued) **Length:** * Short, medium, long. **Density:** * Fine, medium, thick. **Growth patterns:** * Cowlick, widow's peak, nape whorl, double crown, male pattern baldness. **Skin tone:** * Fair, medium, olive, dark. **Face shape:** * Oval, round, square, oblong, heart, pear. **Head size:** * Large, medium, small. **Existing curl:** * Tight, soft, wave. **Lifestyle:** * Job, family, financial, time. **Test results:** * Good, bad, caution, positive, negative. **Hair and scalp contra-indications:** * Can prevent/alter service, product, technique. **Type of conditions:** * Skin disorders (disease, infestation, infection, defect, bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites). **Skin sensitivities:** * Reaction. **Allergies:** * Latex, nut, plasters, perfume, oil. **History of allergic reaction:** * Positive reaction to skin test, colour service. **Incompatible products:** * Metallic salts, previous chemical treatments. **Medication:** * Prescription medication. **Medical condition:** * High blood pressure, pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer. **Hair condition:** * Chemical, heat damage, environmental. **Hair disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious. **Skin disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious, cross infection (stylist to client, client to stylist). **Contagious:** * **Bacterial:** Impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis (yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pus filled spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or under skin). * **Viral:** Warts (raised, rough skin, brown), herpes (blisters). * **Fungal:** Tinea capitis/ringworm (patches, pink/grey, scaly, broken hair). * **Animal parasites:** Pediculosis capitis (head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood), scabies (parasites, mites). **Non-contagious:** * **Psoriasis** - over production of skin cells, dry, silvery, scales. * **Cicatrical alopecia** - scar. * **Alopecia totalis** - complete hair loss. * **Male pattern baldness** - hair recedes at hairline or loss crown. * **Traction alopecia** - excessive pulling, brushing curling and straightening. * **Alopecia areata** - stress, bald patches * **Seborrhea** - excessive oil. * **Dandruff** - itchy, white, skin cells. * **Dry scalp** - white, powdery. * **Eczema/dermatitis** - allergic reaction to detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping. * **Acne** - raised bumps and spots. * * * ### Outcome 2: Be able to provide a cutting service (continued) **Length:** * Short, medium, long. **Density:** * Fine, medium, thick. **Growth patterns:** * Cowlick, widow's peak, nape whorl, double crown, male pattern baldness. **Skin tone:** * Fair, medium, olive, dark. **Face shape:** * Oval, round, square, oblong, heart, pear. **Head size:** * Large, medium, small. **Existing curl:** * Tight, soft, wave. **Lifestyle:** * Job, family, financial, time. **Test results:** * Good, bad, caution, positive, negative. **Hair and scalp contra-indications:** * Can prevent/alter service, product, technique. **Type of conditions:** * Skin disorders (disease, infestation, infection, defect, bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites). **Skin sensitivities:** * Reaction. **Allergies:** * Latex, nut, plasters, perfume, oil. **History of allergic reaction:** * Positive reaction to skin test, colour service. **Incompatible products:** * Metallic salts, previous chemical treatments. **Medication:** * Prescription medication. **Medical condition:** * High blood pressure, pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer. **Hair condition:** * Chemical, heat damage, environmental. **Hair disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious. **Skin disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious, cross infection (stylist to client, client to stylist). **Contagious:** * **Bacterial:** Impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis (yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pus filled spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or under skin). * **Viral:** Warts (raised, rough skin, brown), herpes (blisters). * **Fungal:** Tinea capitis/ringworm (patches, pink/grey, scaly, broken hair). * **Animal parasites:** Pediculosis capitis (head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood), scabies (parasites, mites). **Non-contagious:** * **Psoriasis** - over production of skin cells, dry, silvery, scales. * **Cicatrical alopecia** - scar. * **Alopecia totalis** - complete hair loss. * **Male pattern baldness** - hair recedes at hairline or loss crown. * **Traction alopecia** - excessive pulling, brushing curling and straightening. * **Alopecia areata** - stress, bald patches * **Seborrhea** - excessive oil. * **Dandruff** - itchy, white, skin cells. * **Dry scalp** - white, powdery. * **Eczema/dermatitis** - allergic reaction to detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping. * **Acne** - raised bumps and spots. * * * ### Outcome 2: Be able to provide a cutting service (continued) **Length:** * Short, medium, long. **Density:** * Fine, medium, thick. **Growth patterns:** * Cowlick, widow's peak, nape whorl, double crown, male pattern baldness. **Skin tone:** * Fair, medium, olive, dark. **Face shape:** * Oval, round, square, oblong, heart, pear. **Head size:** * Large, medium, small. **Existing curl:** * Tight, soft, wave. **Lifestyle:** * Job, family, financial, time. **Test results:** * Good, bad, caution, positive, negative. **Hair and scalp contra-indications:** * Can prevent/alter service, product, technique. **Type of conditions:** * Skin disorders (disease, infestation, infection, defect, bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites). **Skin sensitivities:** * Reaction. **Allergies:** * Latex, nut, plasters, perfume, oil. **History of allergic reaction:** * Positive reaction to skin test, colour service. **Incompatible products:** * Metallic salts, previous chemical treatments. **Medication:** * Prescription medication. **Medical condition:** * High blood pressure, pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer. **Hair condition:** * Chemical, heat damage, environmental. **Hair disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious. **Skin disorder:** * Contagious/non-contagious, cross infection (stylist to client, client to stylist). **Contagious:** * **Bacterial:** Impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis (yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pus filled spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or under skin). * **Viral:** Warts (raised, rough skin, brown), herpes (blisters). * **Fungal:** Tinea capitis/ringworm (patches, pink/grey, scaly, broken hair). * **Animal parasites:** Pediculosis capitis (head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood), scabies (parasites, mites). **Non-contagious:** * **Psoriasis** - over production of skin cells, dry, silvery, scales. * **Cicatrical alopecia** - scar. * **Alopecia totalis** - complete hair loss. * **Male pattern baldness** - hair recedes at hairline or loss crown. * **Traction alopecia** - excessive pulling, brushing curling and straightening. * **Alopecia areata** - stress, bald patches * **Seborrhea** - excessive oil. * **Dandruff** - itchy, white, skin cells. * **Dry scalp** - white, powdery. * **Eczema/dermatitis** - allergic reaction to detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping. * **Acne** - raised bumps and spots. * * * ### Outcome 2: Be able to provide a cutting service (continued) **Range of looks for men:** * Source through high profile celebrities/footballers, books, magazine, internet, stylebooks, portfolio of own work. **Traditional looks:** * Uniform layer, short graduation. **Current fashion:** * Mohican, avant-guard, asymmetric, patterns. * * * ### Outcome 2: Be able to provide a cutting service **Professional communication in a salon environment:** * Try to avoid technical language, always respond, consider client confidentiality. **Verbal:** * Speaking (tone of voice, the language you use, how quickly and clearly), questioning (open, closed, probing). **Non-verbal:** * Body language, positive attitude (posture, facial expressions, hand gestures, the distance you stand), listening (be patient, try to understand). **Written:** * Visual aids, magazines, client records. **Behave professionally in a salon environment:** * Follow health and safety practice and procedure, salon code of conduct, respect others, value client(s), co-operate with others (be sympathetic, fair, not aggressive), use appropriate language, avoid gossip, maintain confidentiality, polite/cheerful and friendly manner (friendly facial expressions, open body language, positive attitude, eye contact), sensible behaviour, team work, pride in work, punctuality, employer and client loyalty. **Tools and equipment used to cut men’s hair:** * Combs, scissors, thinning scissors, razor, clippers, attachments, towels, cutting collar, cotton wool strips, selection of brushes, water spray, neck brush, hand dryer. **Following cutting guidelines to accurately achieve the required look:** * First section cut, a guide that is followed throughout a haircut to ensure accuracy, all subsequent sections follow first section, ensures evenness, takes guess work out of cutting hair, working in a methodical manner, section hair cleanly and accurately, sections approx 1½ inch/1 cm width, follow identified sectioning pattern, use guide to ensure desired shape/length. **How to adapt a hair cut to taking into account identified factors:** * Combine and adapt techniques, be innovative/creative, remedial action to resolve any problems, **Work with natural fall of hair, ensure style suits curly/wavy/straight hair type:** * Hair growth patterns - use them, lose them, cut short, retain length, may limit style availability. **Face shapes:** * Round - less volume at sides. * Square - volume at sides, soften corners. * Long - less height more volume. * Oval - suits all styles. **Cutting techniques:** * Club cutting - to create blunt end to hair, precision cut, retain bulk and weight. * Texturising - break up hard lines, soften edges, remove bulk. * Razoring - remove length and bulk, create soft broken edges and texture, removing weight increases curl. * Thinning - removes bulk not length. * Scissor/clipper-over-comb - cut into nape, shorten less then finger depth, cut to head shape, short styles. **How to create a natural hairline:** * Avoid cutting a straight base line above natural hair growth, work with growth patterns, natural fall of hair, natural movement, fade hair into hairline, round, square, tapered, straight, concave, converse, client requirement/wishes. **Position yourself and the client appropriately throughout the service:** * Correct posture of self and client to minimise fatigue and injury. * **Self** - back straight, distribute weight evenly, feet slightly apart, use of cutting stool if required, no over stretching or bending. * **Client** - position to achieve accurate cut, client comfort and minimise fatigue and injury, up right, back straight and supported, two feet on floor. **Cross check the haircut to ensure even balance and weight distribution:** * Working opposite direction to which hair was originally cut, across sections, check cut is even/balanced, maintain angle, methodical working method, checks made by look and feel, ensure even weight/balance/length distribution. **Unwanted hair outside outline shape:** * If hair is not faded into nape line remove unwanted hair using clippers, scissors, razor. **Creating sideburns:** * Hair that appears in front of the ears and below temple, can be different in colour/texture to head hair, client requirements (long/short, close cut/ retain length, straight/angled towards/ away from face, same length), ensure level cutting is achieved (use mirror for balance, look, feel). **Creating a finished cut:** * Confirmation of style, creative flair, professional judgement on chosen technique, what tools and equipment to use, consider influencing factors, precision working, adapt and amend if necessary. **Methods of confirming client satisfaction:** * Body language, facial expressions, verbal/written feedback, surveys/questionnaires, repeat booking, recommendation. * * * ### Outcome 2: Be able to provide a cutting service (continued) **Provide suitable aftercare advice:** * Important part of service, avoid technical language, maintain eye contact, suggest/ advise/recommend, provide information. **Maintenance:** * Frequency of visit, regular services, minimise chemical treatments, correct use of electrical equipment, product use and demonstration. **How to follow safe and hygienic working practices:** * Maintaining a safe salon – clean, tidy, safe standards of working, remove spillages, report slippery surfaces, remove/ report obstacles, clear access to trolleys and equipment, clean/sterilise/disinfect (tools, equipment, work surfaces), no smoking, eating, drinking or drugs in salon, professional personal hygiene. * **Personal protective equipment** - wear protective equipment, avoid latex, powdered gloves, apron. * **Electricity at work** - visual check of equipment, no trailing wires, portable appliance testing. * **Manual handling** - moving stock safely, lifting, working heights, unpacking. * **Towels** - wash regularly, clean for every client, place dirty towels in covered bin. **Reporting of injuries, diseases and dangerous occurrences:** * Accident book, reporting diseases, log accidents. **Control of substances hazardous to health - store, handle, use, disposal:** * Replace lids, ventilation for vapour and dust, avoid over exposure to chemicals, use manufacturer's instructions for use. **Disposal of waste:** * Sharps box, closed top bin, dilute chemicals with running water, environmental protection, salon policies for hazardous waste, single use items, empties (recycle). **Product storage:** * Check end date/ packaging, store away from heat/damp/ direct sunlight, empties avoid theft. **Maintenance of tools and equipment:** * Equipment and tools cleaned, appropriate sterilisation (barbicide, autoclave, UV, sterilising spray), disinfection, heat or chemical methods, remove broken tools and equipment, use of trolley, safe professional presentation of tools and equipment, only use for intended purpose, store correctly, electrical equipment checked, portable appliance testing, visual check on both large and small equipment. **The effect cutting hair at different angles has on the finished look:** * Angle determines effect achieved, weight line and degree of graduation. **One length:** * Held at 0° angle = no graduation, heavy base line. **Square layer:** * Held at 180° degree angle = weight line below where first layer sits. **Short graduation:** * Held at 45° degree angle = weight line below where first layer sits. **Uniform layer:** * Held at 90° degree angle = no weight line. **Long graduation:** * Held at 145° degree angle = weight line below where first layer sits. * * * ### Outcome 2: Be able to provide a cutting service (continued) **The importance of tension when cutting:** * Tension = gently pull hair until resistance is reached, more tension to achieve more precise cut, less tension for curly hair to allow it to curl and bounce up, no tension for free hand or if style requires, even tension for accurate cut. **Considerations for cutting hair wet:** * **Advantages of wet cutting** - clean hair, cleaner sections, accuracy, control, see if curl present. * **Disadvantages of wet cutting** - slower, unable to see weight lines, hair growth patterns less obvious. **Considerations for cutting hair dry:** * **Advantages of dry cutting** - quick, can see hair movement and fall, achieve required length. * **Disadvantages of dry cutting** - hair dirty, inaccurate sections, less control, static, hard to comb, inaccurate cut.