Frame Repairs & Modifications PDF

 Frame Repairs & OPHD 2604 Modification s Chapter 10 14 August 2024 In this chapter: 1. Screw replacements and repairs 2. Nosepad replacements 3. Temple repairs 4. Hinge repairs 5. Bridge repairs 6. Repairs to the eyewire and lens 7....

 Frame Repairs & OPHD 2604 Modification s Chapter 10 14 August 2024 In this chapter: 1. Screw replacements and repairs 2. Nosepad replacements 3. Temple repairs 4. Hinge repairs 5. Bridge repairs 6. Repairs to the eyewire and lens 7. Frame trim 8. Cleaning the frame 9. Soldering General Considerations: Most common repairs: ― Screw repairs/replacements ― Nose pad replacements ― Temple repairs Cost vs time Sometimes its easier and cheaper to replace a part rather than trying to repair Not all breaks can be repaired Not all replacements will be 100%: cost and situation considered 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements Types of screwdrivers: Brass shafts No-roll handles Large hard wood handles Handles that bend to the shape of the hand What about the blades? Check they in good condition Check it’s the correct size for the screw If bad condition or incorrect size can damage the screw head and or the frame itself – ‘strip’ the screw 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements Types of screws: Self-aligning spring hinge screws Titanium screws – strong do not break Many different sizes and diameters 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements Tips and tools for replacing/removing screws: Use the “pick up” screwdriver: Has spring loaded retractable jaw, holds screws until fitted into the threads Screw holding tool: Holds the screw until it fits into the hole Screw lift tool: Lifts a loose screw from the hole, prevents the screw from falling NB: Screws that are secured on an angle can damage the threads of a barrel ― Ensure the screw is secured straight 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements Correct use of a screwdriver and position for repair: Do not hold like a pen Hold the handle end in the palm of the hand Grasp the screwdriver blade end with thumb and forefinger Place the spectacles against a flat surface ― NB: Screwdriver easily slips and you can get hurt 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements 1. Loose screws: Opening and closing of temples can loosen screws Simply tighten the screw in place Sealant on the screw threads can be used to keep screws tight in place also helps with reducing occurrence of corrosion Clear nail polish is also used to secure the screws ― Applied to head and threads Box 10-1 page 220: self review 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements 2. Spring hinges: Screw holds the spring Not easy to align the barrels without tools Might need more than two hands – need help from someone else Spring hinge alignment tools can be used – many types Self aligning screws can be used ― Long and tapered tip ― Once aligned break off the tip that is protruding Once secured open the temple outward and test the spring action ― If not open sufficiently LOOSEN the screw slightly 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements 2. Spring hinges: 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements 3. Misaligned hinge barrel: Screw might be secure but temple still loose ― Possibly barrels hinges that are misaligned Remove the temple from the front Note: Which has more barrels - the front or the temple? Use the part that has the more barrels (usually the front) Narrow the distance between the barrels ― Use PARALLEL JAW plier to compress the barrels SLIGHTLY ― Too much pressure can cause the barrel to break also too much pressure can result in over compression ― Sometimes this compression can occur with the temple in place, but it can be difficult to use pliers in that position 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements 4. Replacing a missing screw: Determine the size of the screw - varying diameters and lengths Most common: diameter 1.4mm and lengths 3.0 to 4.0 mm Table 10-1: self review To find the size of an existing screw: 1. Measure the diameter (ruler or specialised tool) 2. Measure the length To find the size of a missing screw: 1. Measure the depth of the barrels (NB: add an amount for the screw head) 2. Find the diameter by using the spokes of a hole gauge 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements 5. Removing a missing screw: Box 10-2: self review Sometimes the screw is in the barrel and hinge, but broken Does not turn: this could mean the barrel or screw slots may be damaged Cause of damage: Corrosion ― Remove by immersing in ultrasonic cleaner or apply with oil Tapping the screw to break adhesion/corrosions: 1. Might need assistance from another person 2. Place on an anvil or vise 3. Place a screwdriver in place on the screw 4. Gently tap the screwdriver with a hammer once or twice to break the adhesion/corrosion 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements 6. Replacing rimless screws: Screws in mountings may also need to be replaced Many mounting methods for rimless fits 3 basic types of assembly: ― Bushings, nuts, washers and screws are used for mounting ― Bushing and washers are used to protect the surface of the lens and reduce stress on the lens from the screw and nuts 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements 6. Replacing rimless screws: components of rimless assemblies Screws: must be long enough to go through the lens and mounting Nut: either hex or star nut Washers: ― Nylon and metal washers used ― Nylon washer: against back surface of the lens provides cushioning ― Metal washer: between nut and rest of the assembly Stabilises the stress around the holes Barrier between the nut and the nylon washer or bushing surface Bushings (or grommets) ― Hollow cylinders that fit into the hole of the lens ― Screw goes through the bushing thus not touching the actual lens material ― Top hat bushing most commonly used 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements  1. Screw Repairs & Replacements BUSHINGS SCREWS FOR WASHERS HEXAGONAL STAR NUTS RIMLESS NUTS MOUNTINGS 1. Screw Repairs & Replacements Additional things to note: Lubricating oil can be used to improve action of a spring hinge Finding a screw from an existing inventory: ― Makes task easier to match screws ― Create your own inventory of your stock ― Ensure it is kept in an organised system For rimless mountings: if original was only a screw and nut ― When replacing – add a nylon washer between the lens and nut and use a nylon bushing to protect the lens from the screw Place a cloth over the lens or a card under the nose pad arm wire when changing the nose pad, so the lenses do not get scratched if the screwdriver slips 2. Nosepad Replacements: Various sizes and types ― Size chosen to increase the bearing on the nose if pressure is concentrated as well to match the nasal area Most common pads: Oval pads measuring 13, 15, 17 and 20mm vertically and round pads 9mm and 11mm Most common design: screw in and push in Pad Types: 1. Acetate 2. Vinyl 3. Silicone  2. Nosepad Replacements: 1. ACETATE 2. VINYL 3. SILICONE Made of Soft vinyl Types: cellulose material 1. Soft silicone material acetate Soft and flexible 2. Firm silicone material Hard and do Do not grab the 3. Flex silicone material not flex nose Mounting insert of the actual pad effects the Slides on nose softness or firmness of the pad (these are not more than effected by the material) silicone pad o Soft silicone pad – small metal mounting inside the pad o Firm silicone pad – metal insert imbedded in a nylon core within the pad o Flex silicone pad – have thin nylon core and NO metal insert Less sliding down the nose, even if perspiring and facial oils present Due to reduced slip, a pulling sensation maybe caused and px uncomfortable (might need to switch 2. Nosepad Replacements: Hypoallergenic Nosepads: Some might be allergic to silicone, vinyl and acetate Materials that can be considered: 1. Gold-plated metal pads Made of gold plated nickel silver 2. Titanium pads Made of 100% titanium Well tolerated material for those with allergies 3. Crystal pads Made of crystal 2. Nosepad Replacements: 1. Push on nose pads: Easy to remove and replace Snaps into an indented box on the pad arm Removal: ― Pad popper plier used to remove the nose pad, can use only hands also ― Plier is slipped between the pad and pad arm attachment Placement: ― Push on pad pliers: Curved nylon jaw to hold the pad, flat metal jaw on other side holds the pad arm Pliers can be used to adjust the nose pad box if nose pad not secure Can widen or narrow the pad arms 2. Nosepad Replacements: 1. Push on nose pads: Pad popper plier 2. Nosepad Replacements: 1. Push on nose pads: Pad popper plier 2. Nosepad Replacements: 1. Push on nose pads: Push on pad plier 2. Nosepad Replacements: 2. Screw in nose pads: Small post on the back Post slips into the pad arm assembly box Screw fits through from one side of box through the screw and to the other side of the box Ensure the correct replacement screw size is available Most common diameter for the screw is 1.0mm If nose pad is broken, ensure there isn’t any part left in the nose pad box when replacing 2. Nosepad Replacements: 3. Logic nose pads: Can be used as a screw on or push on Comes in round and oval shape Symmetrical: L and R interchangeable 2. Nosepad Replacements: 4. Replacing adjustable pads with strap bridges (comfort bridge): Strap bridge: resembles adjustable nose pads that are linked at the top with a strap The strap is the same material as the nose pad Allows for the frame to bear on the crest of the nose Strap bridge attached to the pad arm like other adjustable pads Flexibility allows for each pad to be adjusted separately 2. Nosepad Replacements: 4. Replacing adjustable pads with strap bridges (comfort bridge): 3. Temple Repairs: Temples might be replaced Ideally need to replace with the identical frame temple, but not always possible Replacing with non identical temples maybe functional, but not cosmetically appealing Replacing with an old temple: ― Old frames can be kept as a repair box, spare parts ― Matching the barrels and hinges can be difficult ― Might need modifications: filing of barrels maybe required ― Using a right temple to replace a left temple: the hinge might fit but the temple ends will need to be adjusted downward 3. Temple Repairs: Replacing from a set of replacement temples: ― Replacement set can be bought from optical companies ― These are generic and generally made with the butt portion of the temple longer than usual, which can be cut and filed down Replacing by ordering: ― Replacement temples can be ordered from the supplier ― NB: note the colour of the frame, and additional information: temple length 3. Temple Repairs: 1. Replacing the plastic piece on the end of a temple: Most temple tips are covered with plastic Replacement temple end covers are available in many sizes, shapes and colours Silicone covers reduce slipping of the temple Common diameters of the core are: 1.4mm and 1.6mm If the metal core is square and the plastic tip is round, use a back-forth twisting motion to push the temple cover 3. Temple Repairs: 1. Replacing the plastic piece on the end of a temple: Procedure: 1. Heat the plastic end of the temple 2. Straighten out the temple end 3. Pull the original plastic cover off 4. Measure the size of the metal core 5. Find the appropriate new plastic cover (similar colour, design etc) 6. Push the new replacement tip cover over the metal core (heat if necessary) 7. Form the temple bend as previously mentioned (heat the temple) 3. Temple Repairs: 2. Adding covers to cable temple earpieces: Cable temples: metal coiled earpiece Can cause allergy (due to nickel) and discomfort Plastic covers can be used to cover the tips Heat shrink tubing is also available for covering metal parts of the temple The diameter of the heat shrink tube is larger than the diameter of the temple Shrink tubing can also be used on the temple to reduce allergic reactions on the shaft of the temple 3. Temple Repairs: 2. Adding covers to cable temple earpieces: Procedure for applying shrink tubing: 1. Determine the size of the shrink tubing needed to allow it to fit over the temple (diameter tubing must be more than the temple) 2. Measure the length required (add 10% more to allow for the shrinkage) 3. Cut a piece to the length and insert the temple into the tubing 4. Using the hottest heat setting on the heater, heat the temple and the shrink tubing, until the tubing shrinks to fit the temple 5. Trim off excess material 6. Heat the trimmed edges to create a smooth edge 3. Temple Repairs: 3. Lengthening and shortening of metal temples: Metal temples usually have a metal core covered by a plastic temple tip These types can be lengthened or shortened 3. Temple Repairs: 3. Lengthening and shortening of metal temples: SHORTENING To shorten the temple: adjusting the temple bend is the first option Ideal options: ― Replace the temples with a short pair ― Order from the manufacturer a shorter pair of temples Procedure: 1. Heat the temple end and straighten it 2. Pull the plastic cover off completely 3. Clip of the end of the metal core by the amount that needs to be shortened 4. Slip the plastic cover back on the metal core 5. Reheat and create another temple bend 3. Temple Repairs: 3. Lengthening and shortening of metal temples: LENGTHENING Two methods to lengthen a metal temple: Method 1: Heat the temple end and straighten it as if removing the plastic cover Slide the plastic cover slightly off the not completely, this allows for the temple to appear to be longer Reshape the bend by heating the plastic cover ― Disadvantage: the temple no longer provides maximum support and is weakened Method 2: replace the plastic temple ends with longer temple ends 4. Hinge Repairs: 1. Riveted hinges: Repairs to riveted hinges Procedure: 1. Remove the temple 2. File the rivets 3. Press the rivets out 4. Pull the shield off 5. Put a new shield on 6. Put the hinge back on 7. Clip off the rivets 8. Peen the rivets down 4. Hinge Repairs: 2. Hidden hinges: Repairs to LOOSE hidden hinges Procedure: 1. Remove the temple 2. Soften the plastic surrounding the hinge with a heated instrument 3. Check for hinges straightness 4. Plunge the hinge into cold water 4. Hinge Repairs: 2. Hidden hinges: Repairs to TORN OUT hidden hinges Procedure: 1. Heat plastic pellets or small filed pieces of plastic in the hole of the hinge 2. Place the hinge in the hole 3. Using a heating instrument melt the plastic pieces in the hinge hole 4. Recheck the alignment of the hinge 5. Place the fixed hinge into cold water 6. Trim away excess plastic 5. Bridge Repairs: Less effort to simply replace the frame Also cosmetically better Repairs to PLASTIC bridges Can be unsightly Options: 1. Glue 2. Wire braces 3. Combination of materials and methods 5. Bridge Repairs: Repairs to PLASTIC bridges 1. Glue Glue can be used by itself or in combination with wire braces A dual spring vise is used to hold the two parts of the broken bridge together When using glue, ensure eye protection is also used Be careful not to glue fingers together 3 types: 1. Epoxy 2. Acetone 3. Instant cement 5. Bridge Repairs: Repairs to PLASTIC bridges: Glue EPOXY ACETONE “INSTANT” CEMENT Strong repair Used for cellulose acetate Frame cements sold by Use epoxy designed for frames optical companies. Some plastic in particular The plastic is from hardware stores Requires holding the two melted/softened such that might work as well parts of the bridge the two parts will stick to Must ensure the surfaces together until the epoxy each other when the are cleaned, dry and rests dries and sets plastic hardens flush against each other Can cause a narrower Quick drying, therefore distance between lenses not much holding is as the plastic has melted required Cotton tip is used to apply acetone to avoid contact with skin 5. Bridge Repairs: Repairs to PLASTIC bridges 2. Wire braces Holes are drilled into each broken piece Thin wire is threaded through the holes to hold the two pieces together Can use wire alone or with glue or cements Wire braces can also be pushed directly into the plastic bridge 5. Bridge Repairs: Repairs to PLASTIC bridges 2. Wire braces TWISTED WIRE IMBEDDED CORE WIRE Hole is perpendicular to the frame front Hole is parallel to the frame front. Drilled on each piece of the bride into the centre of each piece U-shaped wire is used and inserted Small thin stiff piece of wire is used through each hole Twist the protruding portions around The two pieces of the bridge are pushed each other (use small pliers) until the together over this small piece of wire bridge is held securely together Clip the excess material and file the wire Works best with glue or epoxy resin to smoothen it Best accompanied by glue, acetone or epoxy resin 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: Broken eyewire repairs usually unsuccessful, tends to break easily due to applied pressure from the lens Eyewire repairs relating to the fit of the lens are more successful Usually these such repairs are done in emergencies, or when px cannot function without specs 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 1. Broken Eyewires: Epoxy and fast drying glues are most successful methods Acetone damages polycarbonate lenses If lenses need to be removed at a later stage, when repairing the frame, do not use epoxy or other glues of that type Only heat the part of the eyewire that is not broken to assist when inserting the lens If the fix is temporary, consider gluing the lens within the frame: ― Once the lens is glued, it cannot be removed. ― This option is used if the px is getting new spectacles with new lenses. ― This option cannot be used if a new frame is awaited and using the old lenses, as the lenses will be glued to the old frame 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 2. Lower edge adjustment: PLASTIC FRAMES Lenses that have not been fitted correctly give the impression that the lens will fall out, especially in a plastic frame Rolled out plastic frames can be seen when the frame is seen from the side Procedure: 1. Remove the lens 2. Reheat the lower portion of the frame, reheating can occur during the process as the frame will cool 3. Grasp the eyewire and rotate it back until the bevel faces directly upward 4. Once the eyewire is straight and the bevel is vertical, insert the lens 5. Insert the lens from the back if the eyewire was rotated outwards 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 2. Lower edge adjustment: METAL FRAMES The eyewire shape is not conforming to the lens edge Procedure: 1. Remove the screw holding the eyewire at the lens 2. Might need to bend the eyewire to conform to the shape of the lens before attempting to reinsert the screw with the lens in place 3. Hold the eyewire around the lens and keep the lens in place 4. Ensure the bevel of the lens fits the groove of the eyewire 5. Reinsert the screw 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 3. Upper edge appears out of the frame More likely to be a problem at the top of a frame than lower portion If the bevel of the lens is excessively visible from the top of the frame, the frame does not conform to the lens Especially with high plus lenses 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 3. Upper edge appears out of the frame Procedure: 1. Most instances you can heat the plastic without removing the lens 2. While the frame is warm, pull the eyewire over the lens and hold in place 3. Submerge the frame with the lens in and the new eyewire position, into cold water or cool air Cooling will assist in fixing the plastic frame wire in place 4. If the frame cannot be heated with the lens, remove the lens, heat and thereafter reshape the frame wire to conform with the lens 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 4. Lens is too small: PLASTIC FRAME Cellulose acetate and propionate frames Procedure: 1. Remove the lens 2. Heat and chill the frame to shrink the eyewire until it appears slightly smaller than the lens 3. Heat and reinsert the lens, immediately cool the frame with the lens inserted 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 4. Lens is too small: PLASTIC FRAME Sometimes there is a visible gap between the lens and the frame Procedure: 1. Heat the area of the frame in the region of the gap 2. Compress the heated portion against the lens bevel 3. Hold the frame in place against the lens and place into cold water Can also use lens interliner (lens packing) ― Strip of nylon (or similar material) inserted between the lens and the eyewire 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 4. Lens is too small: METAL FRAME Most common cause is a loose screw ― Always check this first If securing the screw does not help, and this is a new pair of spectacles received from the laboratory ― Send back to the lab, as the lens has been cut and finished too small If not a new specs, you need to attempt an in-office repair 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 4. Lens is too small: METAL FRAME 3 methods: 1. Acetate lens interliner (lens washer/packing) 2. Double sided adhesive 3. Latex liquid interliner 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 4. Lens is too small: METAL FRAME A. Acetate lens interline: Plastic liner inserted between the lens and the eyewire Most common type: non-adhesive and has a bevel shape to hold the lens. Sold in a roll 3 methods to insert the acetate lens interliner 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 4. Lens is too small: METAL FRAME A. Acetate lens interline: 3 methods to insert the acetate lens interliner METHOD 1 METHOD 2 METHOD 3 Use glue Soak the liner in Use transparent tape acetone Place a drop on a piece of The liner becomes sticky Tape the liner to the lens, paper, take the back side of and soft, place it into the insert the lens into the the liner and slide it across groove of the eyewire frame the glue (the glue goes on the back side of the liner) Hold the interliner in the Once the liner sticks to the Cut the tape away using a groove of the eyewire for 20 groove, insert the lens razor or equivalent knife seconds till it is stuck 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 4. Lens is too small: METAL FRAME B. Double sided adhesive Also a lens liner which has two adhesive surfaces Not recommended for excessively loose lenses as the tape is thin Easier to use double sided adhesive than bevelled liner as the double adhesive tape is stuck directly to the lens bevel 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 4. Lens is too small: METAL FRAME C. Latex liquid interliner This is a liquid liner Applied to the groove of the eyewire Dries in about 1minute CAUTION: Do not use for px allergic to latex 6. Eyewire and Lens Repairs: 4. Lens is too small: Gaps or Airspace present Place a piece of liner in the position directly across the gap Gaps are unsatisfactory ― If lens supplied by you: fix it by replacing the lens ― If lens not supplied by you: explain to the px that the repair is not ideal however this is the best than can be done 7. Cleaning the frame: 1. Cleaning technique 2. Discoloration 3. Surface marked by pliers 4. Restoring finish on optyl Frames 5. Bubbles 7. Cleaning the frame: 1. Cleaning technique: Clean with ordinary soap and water Use a tooth brush Soap must not be abrasive Can also use an ultrasonic cleaning unit 1. Place the frame with the lenses up in the tank 2. Put the device on 3. Dirt is loosened 4. Check all screws as vibrations from the process can loosen them 5. Lenses that have AR coatings SHOULD NOT be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner 7. Cleaning the frame: 1. Cleaning technique: Ultrasonic cleaner: Frame types not suitable for the ultrasonic cleaner: 1. Frames in which lenses are secured by screws within the lens Rimless Semi-rimless 2. Frames that have glued on rhinestones or other small jewels 7. Cleaning the frame: 2. Discolouration: Caused by interaction between hair and skin Appears whitish To remove discoloration: 1. Polish and buffing wheel 2. Acetone and oil Acetone and oil to remove frame discoloration: Use a cotton tipped applicator dipped in acetone and oil Rub the dipped applicator over the entire temple multiple times until the colour is restored Each time dip the applicator into the combination solution as a fresh application of the oil and acetone is needed each time 7. Cleaning the frame: 3. Surface marked by pliers: Jaws of pliers can mark frame plastic Heating the effected area might allow the plastic to return to original position Do not over heat the area Buff the area once the surface appears normal or close to normal 7. Cleaning the frame: 4. Restoring the finish on optyl frames: Optyl frames are damaged if placed on rough surfaces Can buff the area Use polyurethane to improve the shine/lustre of the frame 7. Cleaning the frame: 5. Bubbles: Result from over heating a frame Cannot be removed Can attempt to make the frame look better 1. File down the effected area to a smooth finish 2. Buffer to restore lustre 8. Soldering: Used to repair broken metal frames Sometimes can be performed by jewellers Time consuming Poor quality frames can come apart when heated ― High risk Soldering metal eyewires also high risk ― The solder will fill the bevel and the lens might not fit well. Electrical solder must not be used Use special solder suited for frame materials and jewellery Normal solder techniques do not work for titanium frames, need laser or induction welding machines 8. Soldering: Discoloration can occur after soldering Solved by buffing and polishing or electroplating Electroplating is used if entire frame needs the procedure Touch up plating is used for smaller sections 8. Soldering: 1. Flame Soldering: Procedure: 1. Remove the lenses If soldering at the bridge remove nose pads also 2. Ensure frame is straight before soldering 3. Hold the frame in place while soldering (can use a special jig) 4. Clean the area to be soldered 5. Place the area at a slant, allowing for the solder to flow downward into the area 8. Soldering: 1. Flame Soldering: Considerations: If soldering the eyewire, the broken section should be vertical Place solder only on the outside of the eyewire, must be removed if it gets into the groove ― Otherwise the lens won’t fit Place flux on the area to be soldered before applying heat Apply the hottest part of the flame (tip of the blue centre portion) until the area is red and hot Apply solder to the break remove the heat when the solder flows over the break 8. Soldering: 1. Electric Soldering: Procedure: 1. Clean the broken area 2. Adjust the frame as it would be worn by the patient 3. Remove the lenses 4. Use a soldering jig to hold the parts in place 5. Place solder on the break while frame is cold 6. Flux the area 7. A wire is clipped from the soldering device to the jig 8. Touch a carbon rod that is attached to the soldering unit to the solder clip 9. Allow electric current to flow by depressing the foot switch of the unit 10.Bond should form within 2 seconds EN D!