Rabbit Senior Study Guide.docx

**[Health ]** - Temperature: 100-104 degrees Fahrenheit - Heart rate: 150-300 beats per minute - Respiratory rate: 30-60 breaths per minute **Nutrition** **All feeds include six basic nutrients: protein, carbohydrates, lipids,** **minerals, vitamins and water**. **Protein** o Provides es...

**[Health ]** - Temperature: 100-104 degrees Fahrenheit - Heart rate: 150-300 beats per minute - Respiratory rate: 30-60 breaths per minute **Nutrition** **All feeds include six basic nutrients: protein, carbohydrates, lipids,** **minerals, vitamins and water**. **Protein** o Provides essential amino acids. o Are essential in livestock feeding because they are needed throughout life for growth and repair. o Helps to form the greater part of muscles, internal organs, skin, hair, wool, feathers, hoofs and horns. o Contains carbon (C), hydrogen (H) and oxygen (O) (in common with fats and carbohydrates) but also contains a fairly constant percentage of nitrogen (N) (about 16 %). **Carbohydrates** are used as energy to enhance movement for body functions, growth, fattening, reproduction, etc. o Represent the largest part of an animal\'s feed supply. o Usually the fibrous part of the diet. o Include sugars, starch and cellulose. o Composed of carbon (C), oxygen (O) and hydrogen (H). **Fats are a concentrated source of energy, up to 2.25 times as much energy per unit** of weight, as do carbohydrates. o Form cholesterol, steroids (including some hormones) and other body compounds. o Found in every cell in the body. o When absent from the diet, affects (among others) the condition of the skin and hair. o Composed of carbon (C), oxygen (O) and hydrogen (H), but contain much larger proportions of carbon and hydrogen than do carbohydrates. o Other functions: - Energy reserves - Protection for vital organs - Insulate the body **Minerals** are needed in nearly all parts of the body but are found primarily in bones and teeth. o Make up important parts of many organic materials including blood. o Affect heartbeat, which depends upon mineral balance to maintain its regularity. o Involved in nerve transmission. o Divided into two groups based on amounts needed by the body: 1. Macro minerals 2. Micro minerals (or trace minerals) **Vitamins** are required for health, development, and metabolic reactions. o Needed only in small amounts but are essential for life and health o Divided into two groups: 1\. Fat-soluble **Water** is the most important nutrient. Accounts for 70% or more of the composition of most plants and animals. o Functions of water in the body are: - Controls body temperature. - Enables living plants and animals to hold their shape. - Is involved in the transport of nutrients and waste throughout the body. - Helps in the digestion of feeds. - Is a major (by volume) part of all body fluids. **Digestive Systems** In its simplest form, the digestive system is a tube extending from the mouth to the anus with associated organs. o This includes mouth, esophagus, stomach, intestines, anus and other associated organs like the liver, teeth, pancreas and salivary glands. o Digestive systems vary according to whether the animals are herbivores, carnivores or omnivores. Types of digestive systems are ruminant or non-ruminant or single stomach. Food is swallowed directly into the single compartment stomach, where it is mixed with the digestive juices. Because there is very little bacterial action, there is no conversion of low-quality protein to high quality protein. Monogastrics are unable to digest large quantities of fiber unless they have an enlarged cecum (examples include horses, rabbits and guinea pigs). o The cecum is a blind pouch or cul-de-sac at the first portion of the large intestine. o While the rumen is the main place for bacterial breakdown in ruminants, it happens in the large intestine and particularly in the cecum of the horse and rabbit. **Signs of a Sick Rabbit** - Decreased appetite - Lethargic - Hair loss - Runny eyes - Discharge from nose - Diarrhea - Sneezing - Fever - Changes in breathing **Rabbit Diseases and Symptoms** **[Ear Canker (Ear mites)]-** **Symptoms:** Shake head and flop ears. Scaly crust starting at base of inner ear. **[Mastitis]- Symptoms:** Mammary glands become hot, reddened and swollen -- later may appear blue in color. **[Myxomatosis]- Symptoms:** a virus that is transmitted by mosquitoes, fleas or by close contact between an infected rabbit and a susceptible rabbit.  The disease is recognized by swelling and discharge from the eyes and nose. **[Sore Hocks-]Symptoms:** Bruised areas under surface of hocks. Often becomes infected or abscessed. **[Rabbit viral haemorrhagic disease]- Symptoms:** [[RVHD]](https://www.vets-now.com/pet-care-advice/rvhd2-rabbit-haemorrhagic-disease-uk/) is a virus spread between rabbits by direct and indirect contact such as contaminated feed. In unvaccinated rabbits it's fatal and sometimes there are no warning signs. In rabbits that survive the first few days after infection, diarrhea with blood is often seen. **[Ring Worm]- Symptoms:** Loss of hair is usually in circumscribed patches, often starts on head but may involve other parts of the body. **[Wry Neck-] Symptoms:** The rabbit turns its head to one side and has a loss of balance. **[Weepy Eye]- Symptoms:** Excessive discharge from the eye and matted fur under the eye. Rubs its eyes with its front feet. **Reproduction** - Lactation average uninterrupted length: 42 days - Lactation peaks at: 17- 20 days - Litters number per doe per year: 2-10 - Litter size: 2-14 young - Usual life span: 3-10 years - Gestation period: 31 days **Types of Rabbit Records** **Pedigree Record** -- The family tree of each individual rabbit is listed. It shows the sires and dams and the grand sires and dams. It lists the color and senior weight of each rabbit. There is a place for registration and grand champion numbers of each rabbit. A three-generation pedigree is needed to register your rabbit. **Herd Record --** This record includes every rabbit in your rabbitry. Listed are the sire, dam, se, color and date of birth of each rabbit. Also, the date it leaves your rabbitry. Comments such as buyers' names or rabbit show winnings help keep track of each rabbit. **Breeding Record --** Each breeding is recorded on this record. It will help you decide which does are the most productive and which bucks are the best. **Show Record --** A show record includes dates and places of shows entered plus information on classes and awards received. It helps the exhibitor know the faults and good points of each rabbit. **Uses of Rabbits** **Breeding Stock --** Rabbits raised for high quality offspring. Keep good records. Attending shows to have your rabbits' breed characteristics judged. Maintain a high level of quality in your animals. **Meat Production --** Rabbits raised to eat. **Fur --** Rabbits raised for fur to be tanned and made into novelty, craft and consumer products. **Wool --** Rabbits raised for wool. It is important for wool to be clean, durable and easily processed. The Angora rabbit is one breed raised for its wool. If you want to raise Angoras, learn where the wool can be marketed for a profit. **Pets --** Rabbits raised for companionship. Pet stores may be a place for you to sell extra rabbits.  **Meat Cuts** **Body Type** **Product Labels** - **Fryer** or **young rabbit---**the terms \"fryer\" or \"young rabbit\" refer to a rabbit weighing not less than 1 ½ pounds and rarely more than 3 ½ pounds, and less than 12 weeks of age. The flesh is tender, fine grained, and a bright pearly pink color. These rabbits may be cooked in much the same way as young poultry. - **Roaster** or **mature rabbit---**the terms \"roaster\" or \"mature rabbit\" refer to a mature rabbit of any weight, but usually over 4 pounds and over 8 months of age. The flesh is firm and coarse grained, and the muscle fiber is slightly darker in color and less tender. The fat may be more creamy in color than that of a fryer or young rabbit. The meat of larger rabbits may be tougher so the best methods of cooking are braising or stewing. **Giblets---**the liver and heart. **Tattooing a Rabbit** 1. Select the tattoo digits for the first rabbit. 2. Put the digits correctly in the pliers before tattooing. Test the intended tattoo by using a piece of paper or paper towel to make sure you have the correct digits and that they are properly aligned. 4. Place the rabbit in the proper tattooing position. A very effective method is for one person to hold the head and rump, with the person tattooing positioned across the table. 5. Examine the location where the tattoo will be placed in the rabbit's left ear, which is the ear as you look down over the animal from behind. The tattoo should be placed above the main visible vein in the ear. Note: Rabbits with very hot ears may bleed excessively. If the ear is very hot, dip a towel in cold water, squeeze the excess water from the towel and place the cold towel on the ears until the ear is cool. 6. If ears are dirty, thoroughly clean and dry the ear before applying the tattoo. 7. Both the holder and person tattooing should be prepared for the rabbit to attempt to jump and move once tattoo digits pierce the ear. 8. Place the pliers in the correct position in the ear. The tattoo should be placed in the ear so it is legible when observing the ear from the rabbit's left side. Place the tattoo so the first digit is lowest on the ear. For example, the ID for the rabbit above is RS53, with the R appearing at the base of the ear. Make sure the side of the tattoo pliers with the digits is *inside* the ear. When applying the tattoo, make sure the ear is straight, with no folds. 9. Once the tattoo pliers are properly positioned, firmly squeeze the pliers together for 1-2 seconds to ensure needles penetrate through the inner skin of the rabbit's left ear. The pliers must be completely closed for the tattoo to be readable. 10. In young rabbits, it is common for the digits to penetrate completely through the ear. This is okay, as the backside of the ear will heal over and not leave marks on the outside of the ear. It is better to completely penetrate the ear than to apply too little pressure and end up with a tattoo that no one can read. 11. Next vigorously rub the ink into the puncture holes. Use a cotton swab, pencil eraser, or finger to work the ink into the puncture holes. 12. Do not remove excess ink. 13. Apply a light film of petroleum jelly over the tattoo. Petroleum jelly will temporarily seal the holes while the puncture holes absorb the ink as they heal. **Breed ID**