Phyto-cosmetics PDF: Plant-based cosmetics, ingredients & benefits

Phyto-cosmetics Cosmetic is any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair, nails, and lips) or the teeth and the mucous membrane of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to clean them, perfume them, change the...

Phyto-cosmetics Cosmetic is any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair, nails, and lips) or the teeth and the mucous membrane of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to clean them, perfume them, change their appearances or correcting odours, protect and keep them in good condition. Phyto-cosmetics are, therefore, plant-based cosmetics that harness the power of botanical extracts, plant-based ingredients, and natural compounds to promote healthy and radiant skin, hair, nails, and overall well-being. Some common plants used in cosmetic formulations Mangifera indica L. Family: (Anacardiaceae) Common name: Mango Constituents: Mango contains an antioxidant called mangiferin that protect the body against oxidative damage. It also contains important vitamins such as vitamin E, A, and C which all act as antioxidants in the human body: Cosmetic benefits: Reduction of sun damage The naturally occurring antioxidants in mango have the potential to reduce signs of sun damage by reducing oxidation of the skin cells. Support collagen formation Mango is rich in vitamin C. Vitamin C is needed for the formation of collagen. Collagen is the most common protein in the skin and gives the skin its structure. Inadequate consumption of vitamin C results in a condition known as scurvy. Many of the symptoms of scurvy, such as poor wound healing and scaly skin, are caused by reduced collagen production. Reduced collagen production leads to wrinkles and other signs of aging. Acne reduction Mango contains a high amount of vitamin A. Vitamin A deficiency may increase the risk of developing acne by increasing the body’s production of the protein keratin. An overproduction of keratin can lead to clogged hair follicles and sweat glands that develop into acne. Retards signs of aging Vitamins E and C help to protect the skin from environmental damage. These two vitamins are present in the skin cells. On exposure to pollution or sunlight, these vitamins are depleted. If they are not replenished, the skin becomes more susceptible to damage that can lead to premature ageing. Aloe vera (L.) Burm. f. Family: Asphodelaceae Common name: Aloe, Barbados aloe Constituent: Aloe vera naturally contains vitamins, minerals, essential amino acids and polysaccharides which give it highly appreciated cosmetic properties: The chemical constituents of A. vera leaf including the pulp and exudate are given in the table below Class Compounds Anthraquinones/anthrones Aloe-emodin, aloetic-acid, anthranol, aloin A and B (or collectively known as barbaloin), isobarbaloin, emodin, ester of cinnamic acid Carbohydrates Pure mannan, acetylated mannan, acetylated glucomannan, glucogalactomannan, galactan, galactogalacturan, arabinogalactan, galactoglucoarabinomannan, pectic substance, xylan, cellulose Chromones 8-C-glucosyl-(2’-O-cinnamoyl)-7-O- methylaloediol A, 8-C-glucosyl-(S)-aloesol, 8- C-glucosyl-7-O-methyl-(S)-aloesol, 8-C- glucosyl-7-O-methyl-aloediol, 8-C-glucosyl- noreugenin, isoaloeresin D, isorabaichromone, neoaloesin A Enzymes Alkaline phosphatase, amylase, carboxypeptidase, catalase, cyclooxidase, cyclooxygenase, lipase, oxidase, phosphoenolpyruvate carboxylase, superoxide dismutase  Inorganic compounds Calcium, chlorine, chromium, copper, iron, magnesium, manganese, potassium, phosphorous, sodium, zinc Miscellaneous including Arachidonic acid, γ-linolenic acid, steroids organic compounds and lipids (campestrol, cholesterol, β-sitosterol), triglicerides, triterpenoid, gibberillin, lignins, potassium sorbate, salicylic acid, uric acid Non-essential and essential Alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, amino acids glycine, histidine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine, tyrosine, valine Proteins Lectins, lectin-like substance Saccharides Mannose, glucose, L-rhamnose, aldopentose Vitamins B1, B2, B6, C, β-carotene, choline, folic acid, α- tocopherol Cosmetic benefits: Moisturising effect: the light texture of Aloe vera juice moisturises all skin types. The polysaccharides it contains give it a strong moisturising power and good penetration into the epidermis. Anti-aging: the polysaccharides naturally present in Aloe vera stimulate the synthesis of Collagen and Elastin by the dermis. These fibres allow the skin to maintain its suppleness and elasticity, delaying the appearance of wrinkles. Purification: the astringent active ingredients contained in the Aloe vera juice tighten the pores of the skin and regulate excess sebum. Repair: damaged skins also benefit from the restorative power of Aloe vera. It helps the skin to regenerate itself. Soothing effect: Aloe vera is the best friend of sensitive skin, prone to sunburn or insect bites. The gel has an instant cooling effect, the soothing and repairing action of the gel allows the skin to recover. Carica papaya (L.) Family: Caricaceae Common name: pawpaw Constituents: the many benefits of papaya can be attributed to the high content of vitamins A, B, and C and Its proteolytic enzymes, such as papain and chymopapain with antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties. Cosmetic benefits: Wrinkle reduction: Papaya is rich in antioxidants, such as lycopene, that protect the skin and prevent it from visible signs of aging. Enhancement of skin elasticity: Papaya extract helps to improve the elasticity of the skin which could minimize the appearance of facial wrinkles. Acne control: The enzymes papain and chymopapain in papaya can decrease inflammation. The protein-dissolving papain can be found in many exfoliating products. These products help reduce acne by removing dead skin cells that can clog pores. Papain can also remove damaged keratin that can build up on the skin and form small bumps. Papain is a viable treatment for scarring. Melasma treatment: Papaya is a popular remedy for melasma, the enzymes, beta- carotene, vitamins, and phytochemicals in papaya have skin lightening properties. The clinically proven action of papain in dissolving inactive protein can lighten and soften the skin. Hair conditioning: Vitamin A in papaya has a positive effects on hair by helping the scalp produce sebum which nourishes, strengthens, and protects the hair. Hair conditioning formula: 1/2 ripe papaya 1/2 cup coconut oil 1 tbsp. honey Apply the mask to damp hair and let it sit for 30 to 40 minutes. Then rinse, shampoo, and condition your hair as you normally would. Hair growth: compounds in papaya, including lycopene have showed strong hair growth stimulating activity. Dandruff prevention: One of the main causes of dandruff is a yeast-like fungus known as malassezia. the antifungal properties of papaya seeds is known to assist in both controlling and preventing dandruff. Curcuma longa (L.) Family: Zingiberaceae Common name: turmeric Constituents: major constituents include turmerone, germacrone and curcumin Cosmetic benefits: 1. the essential oil found in turmeric exerts anti-aging effects on the skin 2. the extract of the plant was found to possess a whitening effects on the skin 3. the root extract has been reported to increase the secretion of sebum in the skin Cocos nucifera L. Family: Arecaceae Common name: coconut Constituents: Coconut oil contains a high proportion of glycerides of lower chain fatty acids. The oil is highly stable towards atmospheric oxidation. It is characterized by a low iodine value, high saponification value, high saturated fatty acids content and the oil is liquid at 27° C. Most oils that is consumed consist of long chain triglycerides (LCT) but coconut oil is unique because it is composed pre-dominantly of medium chain triglycerides (MCT)(e.g. caproic, caprylic, lauric, capric ). The size of the fatty acid is extremely important because physiological effects of medium-chain fatty acids in coconut oil are distinctly different from the long-chain fatty acids. It is the MCT in coconut oil that makes it different from all other fats and for the most part gives it its unique character and healing properties. Almost all of the medium-chain triglycerides used in research, medicine, and food products come from coconut oil. MCT are easily digested, absorbed, and put to use in nourishing the body. Unlike other fats, that put little strain on the digestive system. MCT provide a quick source of energy necessary to promote healing. This is important for patients who are using every ounce of strength they have to overcome serious illness or injury. This is why MCT are added to infant formulas. MCT is not only found in coconut oil but are also some of the vital components of human breast milk. Coconut oil contains 55–65% oil. Coconut oil has 90% saturates and is deficient in monounsaturates (6%), polyunsaturates (1%), and total tocopherols (29 mg/kg). However, coconut oil con- tains medium chain fatty acids (58%), which are easily absorbed into the body. Phenolics present in coconut oil are p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid, caffeic acid, quercetin and catechins. Cosmetic benefits It revamps aging skin: Coconut oil contains fatty acids which mimic the lipids of those found in human skin. As we age, we lose these fatty acids slowly, which results in drier, sagged, and aged skin. Coconut oil makes more of such important fatty acids available for use on the skin surface. It penetrates easily into the skin, moisturizes it thus improving the dry and damaged skin significantly. Protects the skin from oxidative stress: It contains tocopherols that act as antioxidants which protects the skin from oxidative stress caused by the environment. Provides antimicrobial coverage: It also has an antibacterial, antifungal and antimicrobial effect on the skin. So, it can be used over the irritated or chapped skin. DRUGS FROM ANIMAL SOURCES 1. Honey Synonyms: Madhu, Honey purified, Mel Biological Source: Sugar secretion deposited in honey comb by the bees, Apis mellifera Family: Apidae Geographical Source: Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Description: It is a thick syrupy liquid, translucent when fresh and on keeping it becomes opaque and granular due to the crystallization of glucose. Collection: The worker bees gather pollen and nectar (a watery soln. containing 25% sucrose and 75% water) and deposit it in the honey-sac located in the abdomen. The enzyme invertase present in the saliva of the bee convert nectar into invert sugar which is partly utilized by the bee and the remaining is deposited into the honey comb. The Honey comb is smoked to remove the bees and honey is obtained by applying the pressure to it or allowing it to drain naturally. The honey is heated to 80º C and allowed to cool. The impurities floating are skimmed off and the liquid diluted with water to produce honey of 1.35 density Chemical Constituents: Glucose (35%), fructose (45%), sucrose (2%), maltose, gum, traces of succinic acid, acetic acid, dextrin, formic acid, colouring matter, enzymes- invertase, diastase and traces of vitamins, proteins. Uses: 1) Demulcent and sweetening agent 2) Common ingredients in several cough mixture, cough drops and vehicle for ayurvedic formulations. 3) Inhibits the growth of oral bacteria , coats the throat and reduces throat irritation 4) Effective in the treatment of gastric or peptic stomach ulcers and in burns. 5) Effective in the treatment of various wounds and infections because of its antimicrobial (antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal) properties. 6) Contains a variety of sugars and minerals and has been shown to be low in calories and useful as a sweetener for diabetics, people with heart disease or those who are overweight. 7) It is used for creating appetite, strengthening the stomach and as a meat preservative. 2. Cod liver oil Synonyms: cod liver oil, cod oil, fish oil Biological source: Fresh liver of cod fish, Gadus morrhua Family: Gadidae Geographical source: Scotland, Norway, Germany, Denmark Description: it’s a pale yellow oil with fishy odour and taste with a specific gravity of 0.922-0.929, acid value of 2 and iodine value of 155-173. Preparation: the liver is chopped and heated at 80C for 30 minutes where the enzyme lipase is destroyed at temperature exceeding 70C. The oil is cooled to about -5 C. the cooling process caused palmitin to precipitate which is removed by filtration. The resultant oil is medicinal. Chemical constituents: cod liver oil is rich with glyceride esters of saturated acids of gadoleic, palmitic, oleic, linoleic, fatty alcohol, cholesterol, Omega-3, vitamin A and D. Uses: 1. supplements for vitamin A and D 2. lowers blood pressure 3. useful in arthritis management 3. Spermaceti Synonyms: Biological source: is a solid wax obtained from the head of a sperm whale Physeter macrocephalus (L.) Family: Physeteridae Geographical source: they are found in the Pacific, Atlantic and Indian ocean Description: spermaceti occurs as a white translucent and crystalline masses, with no odour or taste Preparation: after collection, and allowed to cool, about 11% of spermaceti is deposited. This is separated by filtration and thereafter purified through melting and washing with sodium hydroxide. This is further purified with boiling water. On cooling, white crystalline masses are formed. Chemical constituents: spermaceti contains mixtures of cetyl esters such as cetyl palmitate, cetyl maristate and cetyl laurate Uses: 1. preparation of ointments 2. production of candles 3. useful as emollient 4. production of cosmetics 4. python fat Synonyms: Biological source: Python fat is extracted from the wild pythons, with species including Python sebae sebae, Python molurus, Python tigris Family: Pythonidae Geographical source: Africa Description: It is golden yellow in colour and melts to pale yellow oil on standing Preparation: traditionally the oil is removed from the abdominal region of the snake where it is heated, filtered and allowed to cool. Chemical constituents: the African Python sebae fat possesses a lot of fatty acids such as oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, myristic acid, gadoleic acid, α-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, γ-linolenic acid, and vaccenic acid. Uses: Python fat is very useful for treating burns and preventing infection. In addition, it also has the ability to heal wounds effectively. It is used to treat stretch marks on the skin. FIXED OILS 1. OLIVE OIL 1. Synonym: olive oil, sweet oil, salad oil 2. Biological source: is a fixed oil expressed from the pericarp of the ripe fruits of Olea Europa L. 3. Family: Oleaceae 4. Geographical source: Italy, Spain, Greece, France, America 5. Properties: it is a pale yellow or greenish yellow liquid with a characteristic taste. It is very slightly miscible in alcohol, but miscible with most of the organic solvents. 6. Chemical composition: The composition of the triglycerides varies with geographical sources. The major fatty acids present are palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic, lineoleic, linolenic and arachidic acids. The unsaponifiable matter of virgin oil is less than 1.5 %. 7. Uses: Drugs excipient, demulcent, purgative, emollient, preparation of ointment, suppositories. 2. EVENING PRIME ROSE 1. Synonyms: Evening prime rose 2. Biological source: it is obtained from the seeds of Oenothera biennis 3. Family: Onagraceae 4. Geographical source: North America, Labrador, Florida, New Mexico 5. Properties: The oil is highly unsaturated with which makes difficult to preserve 6. Chemical constituents: contains up to 25% of fatty acids with ƴ-linoleic 8- 15% acid, linoleic acid 65-80% and oleic acid 6-11% being the major fatty acids that is present in the plant. 7. Uses: dietary supplement as a prostaglandin precursor, cosmetics (wrinkles and skin elasticity) and toiletries, premenstrual syndrome, diabetes neuropathy etc 3. ARACHIS OIL 1. Synonyms: Arachis oil, peanut oil and groundnut oil 2. Biological source: It is expressed from the seeds of Arachis hypogea 3. Family: Fabaceae 4. Geographical source: Native of Tropical South America, India, China, Kenya, Nigeria 5. Properties: it’s a pale yellow liquid with nutty aroma and a bland taste. Its immiscible in alcohol but miscible in most of the organic solvents. Aflatoxin-B is usually detected in unrefined oil. 6. Chemical composition: it contains about 50% of fixed oil, 30% proteins and 20% starch. Its fatty acid composition include palmitic acid 7-16%, stearic acid 1.3-6.5%, Oleic 35-72% and gadoleic 0.5-2.1%. 7. Uses: used as excipient for parenteral formulations, applied as drops or softening ear wax. 4. CASTOR OIL 1. Synonym: Castor oil 2. Biological source: It is obtained from the seeds of Ricinis communis 3. Family: Euphorbiaceae 4. Geographical source: Native of India, largely cultivated in India, Brazil, China, Russia and Thailand 5. Properties: medicinal castor oil is nearly colourless or faint yellow in nature. It has a slight odour with a bland to acrid taste. It is miscible in 1 : 2.5 volume of alcohol and miscible with organic solvents such as  chloroform, ether, glacial acetic acid and partially miscible with Pet. ether 6. Chemical composition: it contains 46-53% of total fixed oil. 90% of the composition is unsaturated hydroxylated C18 fatty acid known as ricinoleic acid. Others are oleic 3, linoleic 3-4, stearic, dihydroxy steric and isoricinoleic acids. 7. Uses: Used as purgative, preparation of soaps, lubricants, plasticizers etc NUTRACEUTICALS Nutraceuticals can also be referred to as functional foods. Food is eaten to stay alive and healthy. Medicine is taken to cure or treat a particular ailments and to keep humans in a state of good health. A substance that serve as both food and medicine can be referred to as nutraceuticals. This term bridges the gap between food and medicine. American Association of Nutritional Chemist recognizes nutraceuticals as products or substances isolated from food, which is then packaged and sold as medicine (Tablets, Caplets and Capsules). Functional foods have played a significant role in the amelioration of chronic ailments such as hypertension, diabetes mellitus, arthritis and certain cancers. Classification Nutraceuticals can be broadly classified based on their natural sources, pharmacological effects and chemical constituents Nutraceuticals Natural sources pharmacological effects chemical constituents Animal, plant, mineral or Digestive support, cardiac Vitamin supplements, microbial sources disease, arthritis support probiotics, dietary fibres, antioxidants, phytochemicals Vitamins and Mineral supplements  Physiological and biochemical functions of the human body depends on many elements including minerals that are contained in our diets. Their deficiency in the food we eat may lead to several health challenges eg jerijeri. Elements such as calcium, magnesium, zinc, phosphorous and basic vitamins (B-complex, vitamin C, ADEK) are required for healthy living. Nutraceuticals containing vitamins constitute a significant proportion of medications found on the shelves in pharmacies worldwide. 1. Dietary fibres Fibres are plants components that cannot be digested by the normal human metabolic processes. Fibres can be found in plant organs such as the leaves, stems, fruits and seeds. The form bulk in the GIT thus making bowel movements easy. This property makes fibres useful in the prevention of indigestion and constipation. There are two major categories: 1) water soluble and 2) water insoluble 1) Water soluble Water soluble fibers dissociates in water to form a gel that binds stools together, gel formation impedes the absorption of glucose and cholesterol eg. Oats, beans, legumes 2) Water insoluble These type of fibers absorb water to some extend to foam a bulk mass that assist in the bowel movement.eg. white grain, cereals, wheats, vegetables and fruits with peels. 2. Antioxidants Lack of sufficient antioxidant consumption result in chronic ailments such as Diabetes mellitus, arthritis and Alzheimer’s disease. Phytochemicals with antioxidant effects mops up free radicals (ROS) some compounds may up-regulate the expression of endogenous antioxidative stress systems such as superoxide dismutase, catalase and glutathione peroxidase. Natural antioxidants include vitamin c, flavonoids and carotenoids. 3. Glucosamine: Is an amino monosaccharide of glucose and glutamic acid. It is found in almost every tissue in the human body with sequestration in the cartilage, ligament and tendons. The body’s capacity to synthesize glucosamine declines with age. It is a precursor for the synthesis of glycoaminoglycan required for the development of cartilages. Glucosamine decline in the  body predisposes the body to the development of arthritis. This compound is one of the most aggressively marketed nutraceuticals for the management of joint diseases eg cosamid plus, jointace 4. Chondroitin It is a glycoaminoglycan produced from the sequencing of uronic acid units and N-acetyl galactosamine units. It occurs in the extracellular matrix of cartilage and connective tissues in animals. Commercial sources include Bovine and Porcine cartilage tissues. Supplements of chondroitin sulphate is useful in the treatment of osteoarthritis. Glucosamine and chondroitin combo have been utilized for the treatment of several arthritic conditions and joint problems.