PCT 503 - Cosmetics Lecture Notes PDF

**PCT 503 - COSMETICS** **BY** **ASSOCIATE PROF. EMMANUEL A. BAMIGBOLA** **LESSON OUTLINES** - - - - - **Ideal Properties** - **Examples** - **Typical components** - **Preparations** **DEFINITION OF COSMETICS** The word *cosmetics* is derived from the Greek word (*kosmetik...

**PCT 503 - COSMETICS** **BY** **ASSOCIATE PROF. EMMANUEL A. BAMIGBOLA** **LESSON OUTLINES** - - - - - **Ideal Properties** - **Examples** - **Typical components** - **Preparations** **DEFINITION OF COSMETICS** The word *cosmetics* is derived from the Greek word (*kosmetikē tekhnē*), meaning \"technique of dress and ornament\", Therefore, cosmetics can be defines as any substances or preparations from natural or synthetic origin intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the external part of human body, the teeth and the mucous membrane of the oral cavity for the purpose of cleansing, perfuming, beautifying, protecting, correcting body odour, promoting attractiveness, altering the appearance or keeping them in good condition. **DIFFERENCES BETWEEN COSMETICS AND OTHER RELATED PRODUCTS** What are not cosmetics? Some products that seem to be cosmetics may be classified differently and managed by different programs i\. Products that claim to have a therapeutic effect (e.g. to prevent or treat disease), or that contain certain active ingredients not allowed in cosmetics are considered to be [drugs](http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/dhp-mps/prodpharma/index-eng.php), for example, topical antibiotic creams. ii\. Products containing natural active ingredients that claim to have a therapeutic effect (for example, a topical herbal remedy to speed scar healing) are considered [natural health products](http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/dhp-mps/prodnatur/index-eng.php). iii\. Items that are intended to be eaten and do not have a therapeutic effect or claim are [food products](http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/fn-an/index-eng.php), such as chewing gum. iv\. Products that provide a therapeutic benefit to animals, like dander-reducing creams, are [veterinary drugs](http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/dhp-mps/vet/index-eng.php). v\. Insect repellent lotions and sprays are [pesticides](http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cps-spc/pest/index-eng.php). **GENERAL CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS** Cosmetics are broadly classified into four types: Skin Cosmetics Nail Cosmetics Hair Cosmetics Hygiene Cosmetics **CATEGORY 1: SKIN COSMETIC** These can be divided into 3 sub-groups: i\. Cosmetics for the general body skin (body, hand and feet) ii\. Cosmetics for the lips iii\. Cosmetics for the face (eyes) **i. Cosmetics for the General Body Skin** - - -- **Products for tanning:** without sun applied to the skin to darken the skin colour usually to protect the skin from sun -- **Skin-toning products:** to maintain the original skin texture and colour. It exclude the bleaching products -- **Anti-wrinkle products**: prevent wrinkle on the skin due to aging by increasing skin elasticity **-- Shaving products:** (creams, foams, lotions, etc.). Applied to the skin to soften the hair prior its removal with razor blade -- **Depilatories**: it's different from the shaving products as they remove hair from the skin without application of razor -- **Skincare products**: Cleansing is a standard step in skin care routines. Skin cleansing includes some or all of these steps or cosmetics: **Cleansers **or foaming washes are used to remove excess dirt, oil, and makeup left on the skin. Different cleansing products are aimed at various types of skin, such as sulfate-free cleansers and spin brushes. Cleansing oil or oil cleanser is an oil-based solution that gently emulsifies the skin\'s natural oils and removes makeup. Cleansing oils are typically used as part of a two-step cleansing process. After the skin has been cleansed with an oil cleanser, a second cleanse is done using a mild gel, milk or cream cleanser to ensure any traces of the oil cleanser and makeup are removed. **Toners** are used after cleansing to remove any remaining traces of cleanser and restore the pH of the skin. They also may add some hydration. They are usually applied to a cotton pad and wiped over the skin, but can be sprayed onto the skin from a spray bottle or poured onto the hand and patted directly onto the skin. Toners usually contain water, citric acid, herbal extracts and other ingredients. Witch hazel is still commonly used in toners to tighten the pores and refresh the skin. Alcohol is used less often as it is drying and can be irritating to the skin. It may still be found in toners specially for those with oily skin. Some toners contain active ingredients and target particular skin types, such as tea tree oil, [salicylic acid](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salicylic_acid), or [glycolic acid](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycolic_acid). **Hyperpigmentation treatment:** Kojic Acid soap, cream or powder and Arbutin (b-D-glucopyranoside derivative of hydroquinone) serum or cream helps to get rid of hyperpigmentation spots of the skin. [**Facial masks**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Facial_mask) are treatments applied to the skin and then removed. Typically, they are applied to a dry, cleansed face, avoiding the eyes and lips. **Clay-based masks** use kaolin clay or fuller\'s earth to transport essential oils and chemicals to the skin, and are typically left on until completely dry. As the clay dries, it absorbs excess oil and dirt from the surface of the skin and may help to clear blocked pores or draw comedones to the surface. Because of its drying actions, clay-based masks should only be used on oily skins. **Peel masks** are typically gel-like in consistency and contain acids or exfoliating agents to help exfoliate the skin, along with other ingredients to hydrate, discourage wrinkles, or treat uneven skin tone. They are left on to dry and then gently peeled off. They should be avoided by people with dry or sensitive skin, as they tend to be very drying. **Sheet masks** are a relatively new product that are becoming extremely popular in Asia. Sheet masks consist of a thin cotton or fiber sheet with holes cut out for the eyes and lips and cut to fit the contours of the face, onto which serums and skin treatments are brushed in a thin layer; the sheets may be soaked in the treatment. Masks are available to suit almost all skin types and skin complaints. Sheet masks are quicker, less messy, and require no specialized knowledge or equipment for their use compared to other types of face masks, but they may be difficult to find and purchase outside Asia. **[Exfoliants](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exfoliation_(cosmetology)) **are products that help slough off dead skin cells from the topmost layer of the skin to improve the appearance of the skin. This is achieved either by using mild acids or other chemicals to loosen old skin cells or lightly abrasive substances to physically remove them. Exfoliation can also help even out patches of rough skin, improve cell turnover, clear blocked pores to discourage acne, and improve the appearance and healing of scars. [Chemical exfoliants](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Chemical_exfoliants&action=edit&redlink=1) include azelaic acid, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, papain and bromelain. They may be found in cleansers, scrubs and peels, but also leave-on products such as toners, serums and moisturisers. Chemical exfoliants mainly fall into the categories of AHAs, BHAs, PHAs or enzymes. Abrasive exfoliants include gels, creams or lotions, as well as physical objects. [**Moisturizers**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moisturizer) are creams or lotions that hydrate the skin and help it to retain moisture. Typical components are [polyols](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyol) such as [glycerol](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycerol) and [sorbitol](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sorbitol) as well as partially hydrolyzed proteins. Tinted moisturizers contain a small amount of foundation, which can provide light coverage for minor blemishes or to even out skin tones. They are usually applied with the fingertips or a cotton pad. Eyes require a different kind of moisturizer compared with the rest of the face. The skin around the eyes is extremely thin and sensitive, and is often the first area to show signs of aging. Eye creams are typically very light lotions or gels, and are usually very gentle; some may contain ingredients such as caffeine or [Vitamin K](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamin_K) to reduce puffiness and dark circles under the eyes. Eye creams or gels should be applied over the entire eye area with a finger, using a patting motion. Finding a moisturizer with [SPF](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sun_Protection_Factor) is beneficial to prevent aging and wrinkles. [**Sunscreens**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunscreen) are creams, lotions, sprays, gels, sticks, or other topical projects that protect the skin from the sun; they contain organic or inorganic filters which act to absorb or reflect harmful UV radiation. Sunscreens are marked with \'spf\' which means \'sun protection factor\' this shows that a product provides protection against UVB. UVA ratings on sunscreens can be denoted by the amount of stars or plus symbols varying amongst countries. It is to be noted UVA ratings do not specifically depict the amount of UVA protection a sunscreen is providing but rather the ratio of equal UVA and UVB protection. The recommended \'gold standard\' of a sunscreen should be at least SPF 30 and at least 4 stars or plus symbols. Daily sunscreen application is very important but uses of shade, clothing, and hats are as important and more effective for sun protection. **Serums** are light and easily absorbed liquids that one spreads on their skin. The main purpose of the product is to apply before moisturizer and the serum provides a high concentration of any specific ingredient on the face. The benefits to serum are skin firmness, smoothness of face, and reducing the fine lines and wrinkles on ones face. - **Skin creams** Creams are semi-solid emulsions which contain mixtures of oil and water stabilized with the help of additives called emulsifying agents. Their consistency varies between liquids and solids. Skincare cosmetics is a general term for products used for cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting the skin. They are also used as a protective layer over the face, with the help of which skin gets cleaned and makes it soft. They help improve blood flow under the skin, which stimulates the healing process and helps remove spots, scars, and pimples from the skin. **Classification Creams according to their functions:** **1.** **Cleansing Creams:** for removing makeup, layer of dirt on skin and secretions of skin from the face and throat respectively **2. Cold Creams:** They produce cooling sensation by the evaporation of water, after application of cream to the skin. Hence, they are known as cold cream. They possess emollient action and the layer left on the skin after application should be non-occlusive. **3. Vanishing Creams:** They are applied during day times to provide emollient as well as protective action to the skin against environmental conditions by forming film less visible to the naked eye. Hence, they are called as vanishing creams. They are used to hold powder on the skin as well as to improve **4. Foundation;** They provide emollient base or foundation to the skin. They are applied before applying face powder or other preparations of make-up. **5. Night Creams:** The preparations which are applied during night time and removed in the morning are called night creams. **6. Massage Creams:** The preparations which are gently applied and rubbed on the skin through massage technique are called massage creams. **7. Hand and Body Creams:** are formulated with suitable emollient, to regulates the water take-up by the cells of stratum corneum of the skin to prevent dehydration and over-hydration of the skim. Exposure of skin to water, soaps and detergents many times a day, removes lipids and other secretions from the skin occurs and leads to over-hydration. Cold and dry winds can cause chapping of the skin, due to loss of moisture from the skin (dehydration), which can cause cracking. 8\. **All-purpose Creams** is Cleansing and Cold Creams All-purpose creams/sports creams: are used by sport persons and also by people who do outdoor activities. Hence, they are called as sport creams. They can perform any of the functions of the above listed creams **Ideal Properties of Skin creams** - They are easy to apply. They spread easily on the skin. They are pleasant in appearance. They cause less irritation to the skin. They should melt or liquefy when applied on to the skin. They should produce flushing action on skin and its pore openings. They should form an emollient film on the skin after application. They should not make skin dry which happens in case, when the skin is washed with water and soap. They should remove chemicals of facial makeup effectively. They dissolve the greasy binding materials which hold the pigment and finally remove them. They should remove solidified oil, sebum, sebum plaques and surface oil layer from the skin. They also help in softening, lubricating and protecting skin apart from cleansing purposes. **Ingredients for preparation of creams** 1\. Water (aqueous vehicle) 2\. Paraffin wax (oil base) 3\. Humectants (propylene glycol, glycerin and Sorbitol). 4\. Emollients (mineral oil, waxes lanolin, White beeswax, phospholipids, fatty acid, fatty acid ester, fatty alcohols etc.). 5\. Antioxidant (to prevent oxidation) 6\. Preservatives example: (methyl paraben, propyl paraben and butyl para hydroxyl benzoate). 7\. Perfumes: example (phenyl ethyl alcohols, pine, geranium, Bourbon, lavender, lilac type, light floral type etc.) 8\. Lubricants (Isopropyl myristate, Stearic acid. Petroleum jelly) 9\. Emulsifying agent. (Emulsifying wax, Triethanolamine, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, carboxy methyl celluloses) **Skin Powder** The powder is a dry, particulate material that comes in solid form instead of a liquid or a gas. In terms of application, there are different types of powders for different applications. Powders are considered as one of the important products of skin care preparations used widely by both men and women for face and body care. They have very fine particle size, this helps in proper dispersion of powder, which covers the large surface area of the body. Skin cosmetic powder is a fine powder with good binding ability, which provides a smooth feel and promotes healthy skin. It makes the skin soft and smooth and enhances its lustre and sheen. **Different types of General Body Powders** 1\. Body powders / Talcum powders / Dusting powders. To absorb sweat use for prickly heat 2\. Deodorant powders and foot powders for treatment purposes. To prevent microbial growth on the surface of the skin) **Ideal Properties of Skin Powder** It should possess good covering Power in order to hide blemishes present on the skin. Adhesion property should be good, so that it should not blow-off easily from the skin. It should remain on the skin for longer period of time to avoid re-powdering. It should be able to impart matt or peach like appearance to the skin. It should remove the shine present on the skin as well as around the nose. It should possess good absorbent property. It should be able to produce transparency It should be able to produce, slip property to the skin for easy spreading by puff without producing any blotches (irregular marks). **Ingredients for preparation of Powders** **1.** **Covering Materials:** These materials are meant to cover small imperfections, enlarged pores and minor blemishes of the skin. Examples: Titanium dioxide zinc oxide, **2.** **Adhesive Materials:** Adhesive materials are essential as they are helpful in imparting adhesion i.e., it cling the powder materials not only to the surface of the skin but also to the powder puff. E.g. Magnesium and zinc stearate 3\. **Slip Materials:** Slip character helps in easy application and spreading of the powder on the skin, which in turn provide smoothness to the skin. E.g. talc, aluminum hydro silicate 4 **Absorbent Materials:** these are to eliminate shine from the skin surface by absorbing the secretion of the skin i.e., sebum and perspiration (sweat). Examples: kaolin, bentonite, magnesium caromate calcium caromate **5. Colouring Materials:** These are mainly used in the formulation of face powders and compacts in order to impart colour. Examples: Iron oxide, pigments 6**. Perfumes:** Flowery fragrance or synthetic odour are used in the formulation of powders. Perfumes should be compatible with the other ingredients in the formulation. Otherwise, the perfume character will change. **ii. Cosmetics for the Lips** Examples of cosmetics for the lips \- [Lipstick](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lipstick) \- [Lip gloss](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lip_gloss) \- Lip liner \- Lip Balm \- Lip Stain \- Lip Plumper \- Lip Primer **Lip cosmetics** are the most popular colour cosmetics used by women of all ages. They may be basically defined as dispersion of the colouring matter in a base consisting of a suitable blend of oils, fats and waxes with suitable perfumes and flavours moulded in form of sticks to impart attractive gloss, color and texture to the lips, moisturize the lips, disguise flaws, and accentuate or define their external edges. They include [lipstick](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lipstick), [lip gloss](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lip_gloss), [lip liner](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lip_liner) and [lip balms](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lip_balm), lip stain, lip plumper and lip primer **Lipsticks:** add colour and texture to the lips, they often come in a wide range of colours such as reds, pinks, corals, etc. as well as a number of different finishes, such as matte finishes and satin or glossy finishes. **Lip Gloss**: A shiny and often sheer product that adds a glossy finish to the lips. It provides hydration and a subtle pop of color. **Lip Liners or Lip Pencil:** It is a pencil-like cosmetic used to define and shape the lips. It is applied to the outline or out edges of the lips mainly to prevent the unwanted spreading of lipsticks or lip gloss in order to give a more even shape of the lip and create fuller-looking lips. **Lip balms or lip salve:** are applied to the lips to moisturize, nourishes and protect the lips or soothes sore, chapped, dry or cracked lips. It often comes in tinted or flavored options. **Lip Stain**: temporarily saturates the lips with a dye, and typically do not alter the texture of the lips. A long-lasting product that adds a tint of color to the lips. It provides a natural, \"just-bitten\" look and can be layered for intensity. **Lip Plumper**: A product that temporarily enhances the appearance of the lips by adding volume and fullness. It often contains ingredients that create a tingling sensation. **Lip Primer**: A product applied before lipstick to create a smooth canvas and improve the longevity of the color. It helps prevent feathering and fading. - - efficiently cover lips with colour and impart a gloss which would last long. - maintain the intensity of colour without any alteration in the degree of its shade. - adhere firmly to the lips and should not provide any greasy appearance. - Have good thixotropic property, to deposit the colour with minimum pressure. - possess required plasticity and be able to maintain all the properties throughout the storage period. - It should not be gritty. - It should be easily dried. - possess even firmness and maintain its strength at varying temperatures up to 55°C. - The stick should not dry or crumble easily. - The lipstick should possess a pleasant fragrance and a good flavour - Should be safe and non-irritating to the lips. - Result in blooming or sweating of the lips. - **iii. Cosmetics for the Eyes** **(Face)** Examples of cosmetics for the eyes include; **Primer**, Concealer, Foundation, Rouge, Bronzer, Highlighter, Eye brow, Eye shadow, Eye liner, False eyelashes, Mascara [**Primers**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Primer_(cosmetics)) are used on the face before makeup is applied, creating a typically transparent, smooth layer over the top of the skin, allowing for makeup to be applied smoothly and evenly. They keep makeup from absorbing into the skin or melting off and can be used to [bake](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baking_(make-up)) foundation in order for it to stay longer on the face. Some primers may also be tinted, and this tint may match the wearer\'s skin tone, or may colour correct it, using greens, oranges and purples to even out the wearer\'s skin tone and correct redness, purple shadows or orange discolouration respectively. Tinted face primers may also be worn alone without foundation or concealer to give an extremely sheer coverage base. Examples of primers are [**face powder**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Face_powder), **setting powder** or [**setting sprays**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Setting_spray) [**Concealer**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concealer) is a cream or liquid product used to conceal marks or blemishes of the skin. Concealer is typically the colour of the user\'s skin tone, and is generally applied after the face has been primed to even out the wearer\'s skin tone before foundation can be applied. Concealer is usually more heavily pigmented, higher coverage and thicker than foundation or tinted primers. Though concealer is often more heavy duty in terms of pigment and consistency than foundation, a number of different formulations intended for different styles of use - such as a lighter concealer for the eyes and a heavier concealer for stage makeup - are available, as well as colour correcting concealers intended to balance out discolouration of the skin specifically. [**Foundation**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foundation_(cosmetics)) is a cream, liquid, mousse or powder product applied to the entirety of the face to create a smooth and even base in the user\'s skin tone. Foundation provides a generally lower amount of coverage than concealer, and is sold in formulations that can provide sheer, matte, dewy or full coverage to the skin. [**Rouge**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rouge_(cosmetics)), **blush**, or **blusher** is a liquid, cream or powder product applied to the centre of the [cheeks](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheek) with the intention of adding or enhancing their natural colour. Blushers are typically available in shades of pink or warm tan and brown, and may also be used to make the [cheekbones](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zygomatic_bone) appear more defined. [**Bronzer**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bronzer) is a powder, cream or liquid product that adds colour to the skin, typically in bronze or tan shades intended to give the skin a tanned appearance and enhance the colour of the face. Bronzer, like highlighter, may also contain substances providing a shimmer or glitter effect, and comes in either matte, semi-matte, satin, or shimmer finishes. Unlike bronzer, t**he purpose of contour** is to help emphasize your facial features by adding depth. [**Highlighter**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highlighter_(cosmetics)) is a liquid, cream or powder product applied to the high points of the face such as the eyebrows, nose and cheekbones. Highlighter commonly has substances added providing a shimmer or glitter effect. Alternatively, a lighter toned foundation or concealer can be used as a highlighter. **[Eyebrow](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eyebrow) pencils**, **creams**, [**waxes**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wax), **gels**, and **powders** are used to color, fill in, and define the brows. Eyebrow tinting treatments are also used to dye the eyebrow hairs a darker colour, either temporarily or permanently, without staining and colouring the skin underneath the eyebrows. [**Eye shadow**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eyeshadow) is a powder, cream or liquid pigmented product used to draw attention to, accentuate and change the shape of the area around the eyes, on the eyelid and the space below the eyebrows. Eye shadow is typically applied using an eye shadow brush, with generally small and rounded bristles, though liquid and cream formulations may also be applied with the fingers. Eye shadow is available in almost every colour, as well as being sold in a number of different finishes, ranging from matte finishes with sheer coverage to glossy, shimmery, glittery and highly pigmented finishes. Many different colours and finishes of eye shadow may be combined in one look and blended together to achieve different effects. [**Eyeliner**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eyeliner) is used to enhance and elongate the apparent size or depth of the [eye](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eye); though eyeliner is commonly black, it can come in many different colours, including brown, white and blue. Eyeliner can come in the form of a pencil, a gel or a liquid. [**False eyelashes**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eyelash_extensions) are used to extend, exaggerate and add volume to the eyelashes. Consisting generally of a small strip to which hair - either human, mink or synthetic - is attached, false eyelashes are typically applied to the lash line using glue, which can come in latex and latex free varieties; magnetic false eyelashes, which attach to the eyelid after magnetic eyeliner is applied, are also available. Designs vary in length and colour, with rhinestones, gems, feathers and lace available as false eyelash designs. False eyelashes are not permanent, and can be easily taken off with the fingers. Eyelash extensions are a more permanent way to achieve this look. Each set lasts for two to three weeks, then the set can be filled, similar to the maintenance of acrylic nails. To apply to extensions the certified lash artist would start by taping down the bottom eyelashes. The lash artist would then use two tweezers, one to isolate the natural eyelash and one to apply the false eyelash. An individual false eyelash, or lash fan, is applied to one natural eyelash using a lash glue specific for this process. The eyelashes should not be stuck together. The length and thickness of the false lash should not be too heavy for the natural eyelash. If this process is done correctly no harm will be done to the natural eyelashes. [**Mascara**](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mascara) is used to darken, lengthen, thicken, or enhance the [eyelashes](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eyelash) through the use of a typically thick, cream consistency product applied with a spiral bristle mascara brush. Mascara is commonly black, brown or clear, though a number of different colours, some containing glitter, are available. Mascara is typically advertised and sold in a number of different formulations that advertise qualities such as [waterproofing](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterproofing), volume enhancement, length enhancement and curl enhancement, and may be used in combination with an [eyelash curler](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eyelash_curler) to enhance the natural curl of the eyelashes. **II. CATEGORY 2: NAIL COSMETICS** - **Definition:** Nail cosmetics are preparations applied to the nails for decorative purposes - **Examples of nail cosmetics:** Nail lacquer or paint, Nail polish - **Nail lacquers or nail paints** may be defined as viscous or semi-liquid preparations that are intended for the decoration and to colour the [fingernails](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nail_(anatomy)) and [toenails](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nail_(anatomy)). They may improve the appearance of nails, prevent ingrown nails, and protect them from breaking or chipping. They produce a gloss effect on the nails from their usual matte finish without abrading materials underneath the nail plate, as in a manicure procedure. Nail lacquers form the most commonly used and the most popular type of Nail cosmetics. They can be applied using various methods, either using a brush or simply by dabbing it onto the nail with the fingers. - **Nail polishes** are quite distinct from those of nail lacquers/paints and are regarded as a type of manicure preparations that produce a gloss by means of huffing action. They are available in every colour and a number of different finishes, including matte, shimmer, glossy and crackle finishes. Transparent, colorless nail polishes may be used to strengthen nails or be used as a top or base coat to protect the nail or nail polish. The action is mainly by causing abrasion on the surface of the nail and secondly by drawing more blood into the capillaries of the nail. - **Ideal Properties of Nail Cosmetics:** - safe for the skin and nails and should not lead to any harmful effects. - easy to apply and easy to remove. - maintain its properties even during long storage and possess consistent stability. - most importantly, it should form a uniform and satisfactory film on the nails. - have good wetting and flow properties and should be viscous in nature in order to form an appropriate film. - Uniform colour distribution by using uniformly ground finely divided pigments evenly wetted by the solvent. - provide a good shine on the nail on application. - possess sufficient adhesive property so that it may uniformly adhere to the nail without slipping. - possess the required flexibility so that it may not become brittle and crack upon application. - The surface should be sufficiently hard in order to prevent th6 effect of impact and scratch. - The drying time of the film should not be too rapid or too slow (about - minutes without forming any bloom). - able to preserve all these properties at least for a week after its application. - **Typical components** - **Preparations** **III. CATEGORY 3: HAIR COSMETICS** - **Definition:** Hair Cosmetics otherwise known as hair dressing products is a category of products used mainly for cleansing, conditioning, improving the appearance and aesthetic properties of hair rather than addressing physiological conditions or diseases. It include gels, waxes, foams, creams, mousse, serum and pomades, lotions, powders, oils, shampoos lacquers, brilliantines - **Examples of Hair cosmetics:** - **Hair bleaches** -- are products used to lightening the hair colour. Examples of bleaching agents are hydrogen peroxide and persulfate salts. - **Hair dyes/tint/colour** - Hair colour is defined as the shade of colour given by the combination of Pheomelanin and eumelanin. Classification of hair colours is done on the bases of three parameters: i) Intensity -- it refers to the depth of colour from light tones to deep tones) Hue -- it refers to the shade of colours like red, lemon yellow etc. iii) Variation refers to the distribution of the above two parameters on a scale ranging from very high variation (outcrop colours) to very low variation (blends with no noticeable colour pattern). - **Styling products** (include gels, waxes, foams, creams, mousse, serum and pomades) -- they are used for waving, straightening, setting and fixing to create and maintain hairstyles. - **Cleansing products** (lotions, powders, shampoos) - are used to clean the hair and scalp by massaging into wet - **Shampoo** A viscous cosmetic preparation with synthetic detergent used for washing hair is called shampoo. Its principle function is to clean the scalp such that it should become free from sebum and foreign substances. Shampoo also makes the hair lustrous and good looking. In olden days detergent soap were used for washing hairs, but nowadays it has been replaced by shampoo.Today shampoo has become an important hair cosmetic for both men and women. However the detergent and other raw materials selected for shampoo preparation should be non toxic to tile scalp, eyes etc. Apart from cleaning, shampoo may also be used for medicinal purpose (i.e., medicated shampoo). **Ideal Properties of Shampoos** It should have optimum viscosity such that it facilitates ease during application. It should have good spreading properties. It should produce sufficient lather after application. able to remove waste material such as debris, soil, sebum, dead cells, salts (due to sweat) etc., from the scalp. It should not form any kind of film on scalp. It should rinse out completely after washing. It should produce lather with both hot and cold water. It should facilitate ease of combing after shampooing. After drying, the hair should not give rough appearance. It should provide lustre to the hair. It should produce good odour both before and after shampooing. It should not produce any kind of irritation or itching to the scalp. It should not support any microbial growth. It should be stable and have a half life of about 2 to 3 years. It should be economical. **Types of shampoo** Various types of shampoos are available and they are classified based on their consistency. **1. Clear Liquid shampoo:** These are clear liquid preparations that are most widely used. They are usually made by using detergent of low cloud point. Alkanolamides can also be used in these preparations. Some of these shampoos may be transparent. **2. Liquid Cream Shampoos:** These are called as lotion shampoos which are modification of clear liquid shampoos. Addition of opacifier such as glycerylmonostearate, glycol stearate etc., to the clear liquid shampoo yields liquid cream shampoo. Solubilising agents such as magnesium stearate is also used to dissolve the added opacifier. **3. Cream Shampoos:** These shampoos have a paste like consistency and are packed in a collapsible tube. They find great use in hair salons. They are also available in jars with wide mouth. The paste consistency is developed by addition of alkyl sulphates, also Cetyl alcohol is added, which serves as a builder. **4. Gel Shampoo:** These are transparent and thick usually made by incorporating a gelling agent, (e.g., cellulose).There is great use in hair salons and beauty parlors. The principle ingredient is detergent which can be used either alone or in combination with soap. By altering the proportion of detergent, gel of required consistency can be obtained. Addition of methyl cellulose to clear liquid shampoo and its subsequent thickening also gives rise to gel shampoo. **5. Powder Shampoos:** As name suggests, it is available in the form of dry powder, initially it was prepared from dry soaps, but nowadays dry synthetic detergents are used for their preparation. Powder shampoo is prepared where addition of water or other solvent reduces the activity of the components, especially in case of medicated shampoo. Nowadays, these shampoos are not used due to the difficulty experienced in their application. Another formulation called dry shampoo is also a type of powder shampoo. Initially they are applied on to the head and then removed by the brush. it doesn\'t involve the use of water. They are usually preferred, when the hair are greasy. This formulation usually includes adsorbents. 6\. Aerosol Shampoos (Foam Type): They are called aerosol shampoos because they are packed in aerosol containers.Their formulation, preparation and packing is complicated as an additional propellant is included. The propellant added must be compatible and should not reduce the activity of shampooing ingredients. The container opening is provided with a valve. Shampoo comes out as foam when the valve is pressed.Hence also called as foam type shampoo. 7\. Special Shampoos: These are the shampoos which are meant for special purpose. They are \(a) Medicated Shampoo: These shampoos contain medicinal agents. These agents treat the disorders of the scalp or hair. Examples of medicated shampoos are: Anti-lice shampoo, Antidandruff shampoo, Anti-baldness shampoo etc,. The medicinal agent added should not irritate the sebaceous glands. It should not sensitize the scalp. The degree of itching and scaling should also be reduced. Among all, anti-dandruff type of medicated shampoo is most widely used. \(b) Conditioner Shampoos: These shampoos serve for hair conditioning. Initially they clean the hair (and scalp) and keep them in smooth and lustrous condition. They also prevent sticking of hairs. Conditioner shampoo nowadays is widely used by both men and women. Most of the conditioners are made from Quaternary ammonium compounds. These compounds have the property of reducing electric charges between the hair, as a result hair become lustrous easily manageable. These compounds can also exhibit a bactericidal effect. **Components and Formulation Shampoos** 1**. Surfactants** \(a) Anionic Surfactants: Alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphate \(b) Non- ionic Surfactants: Alkanolamides \(c) Cationic Surfactants: Alkyl amines, alkyl imidazolines \(d) Amphoteric surfactant: Acyl amino acids **2. Foam booster:** Monoethanolamides, lauramides DEA, cocamide DEA **3.** **Germicide and anti-dandruff agent:** Banzalkoniumchloride, cetrimide, selenium sulphide, cadmium sulphide **4. Conditioning agent:** Lanolin, egg, amino acids **5. Pearlescent agent:** 4-methyl-7-diethylamino coumarin, 4-methyl-5,7- dihydrocoumarin **6. Sequestrants:** EDTA, citric acid, tripohyphosphate **7. Thickeners:** Alginates, polyvinyl alcohol, methyl cellulose **8. Perfuming agent:** Herbal fruits or floral fragrance **9. Preservatives:** p-hydroxyl benzoic acid phenyl mercuric nitrate **10. Colour:** FD and C dye **Preparation of shampoos** Simple procedure is involved in the preparation of shampoo. Initially only one method available for the preparation of shampoo, but later the basic method was modified in order to obtain different type of shampoo like cream, gel, aerosol etc. **General Method for preparation of shampoo:** Liquid shampoo is usually prepared by this method which involves the following steps: Initially the detergent is converted into a solution form or a detergent solution may be directly obtained from the manufacturer. About half of the detergent solution is poured into a separate container. To it, add the total amount of secondary surfactant i.e., alkanolamide. Dissolve the alkanolamide along with stirring. Sometimes, gentle heat is also applied. To the remaining half of the detergent solution add suitable amount of perfuming agent and dissolve it. The perfume solution is then added to the alkanolamide solution. Colour and preservatives are dissolved separately in sufficient volume of water and then added to the main solution. The whole, solution is mixed well by gentle stirring. Excessive stirring may lead to bubble formation. Final volume of the preparation is usually adjusted by the addition of clear sterile waste. This gives clear liquid shampoo. However, when the preparation contains lauryl alcohol ether sulphate. It is required to adjust the viscosity of the shampoo. Viscosity adjustment is done by using an electrolyte solution. Usually, a solution of sodium chloride is added subsequently with constant stirring. Care must be taken to it event the excess addition of sodium chloride. **IV. CATEGORY 4: HYGIENE COSMETICS** - - - - - - - powders and tooth gels are meant for the cleaning the surface of the teeth by removing the food debris and plaque adhered to surface of the teeth which is the main cause for tooth problems. **Toothpaste** - - It should be capable of cleaning the teeth adequately by removing food debris, plaque and stains efficiently. - It should leave a pleasant, cool and refreshing sensation in the mouth. - It should be harmless, non-toxic and should not cause irritation in the mouth or any ulcers in the buccal cavity. - It should be able to maintain its flow properties all through its commercial period of storage. - It should be easy to pack and easy to use. - The abrasive character of the dentifrice should be under the limits of the standards and should not be harsh on the enamel and the dentine. - It should confirm to the standards of the EC cosmetic directive which states that it is not liable to cause damage to human health when used under normal conditions. - The assessment of any claims shall be certified based on properly conducted clinical trials. - Most of all it should be economical to purchase in order to encourage regular and frequent use by common people. **Typical components for Formulation:** Toothpastes are the most popular form of dentifrices. Component for its formulation include the following ingredients which determine the quality and efficiency of toothpastes. - - - - - - - **Preparation of toothpaste:** **Conclusion** People use makeup daily, and it can be used for various things. It sometimes can even boost someone's confidence by using different cosmetics like eyeliner, lipstick, foundation and eye shadow, cleansers, moisturizers, foundations, etc. However, not all cosmetics we use are good for our body. Chemicals and compounds may irritate the skin, cause allergic reactions, or exacerbate already existing medical conditions like acne or eczema and even toxic chemicals can be harmful over time. Some cosmetics like lotions and sunscreens are beneficial to our health, but some like foundation are not.