Fashion History PDF

05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY J AY N E S I M O N E E S T È V E C U R E 2025 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 1 1 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – I N T R O D U CT I O N EVALUATION 1. CC#1 -> 12th FEBRUARY 2. ORAL PRESENTATIO...

05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY J AY N E S I M O N E E S T È V E C U R E 2025 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 1 1 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – I N T R O D U CT I O N EVALUATION 1. CC#1 -> 12th FEBRUARY 2. ORAL PRESENTATION LAST LESSON MARCH 10th – 10 MNS – DUOS (notes in a written doc) 1. Contextualize period (historically – meaning & origins & growth of rococo…) 2. Focus on the personality example Marie Antoinette & Rose Bertin ( 3. Repercussions in today’s fashion 1. DUO#1 ROCOCO & MARIE ANTOINETTE 2. DUO#2 MERVEILLEUSES & JOSEPHINE DE BEAUHARNAIS 3. DUO#3 BELLE EPOQUE & JEANNE PAQUIN 4. DUO#4 1930s & JEAN PATOU 5. DUO#5 1980s & THIERRY MUGLER 3. PARTIELS février 25 2 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 2 1  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – I N T R O D U CT I O N TOPICS TO BE STUDIED 15mns max (13 minimum) Study your allocated historical period and explore the fashion repercussions answering the below questions 1. What were the major social and cultural events that marked this period? 2. Choose 2 major clothing innovations for this period - present and analyze 3. What impact on more recent fashion can you describe (since the beginning of the 20th century) - that was inspired by your historical period. 4. For each different Maison/Designer or Fashion figure of the times -> choose EITHER 3 fashion shows or 3 fashion related events describe and argument. 5. What are you particularly interested in this period and the evolution of clothing/fashion and why? février 25 3 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 3 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – P O ST R E VO LU T I O N PART 4 Post Revolution Les Merveilleuses février 25 4 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 4 2  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY– POST REVOLUTION PERIOD DIRECTORY Before Napoleon’s reign février 25 5 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 5 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – P O ST R E VO LU T I O N LES MERVEILLEUSES The Merveilleuses were a group of fashionable women in Paris during the French Directory (1795-1799), which followed the French Revolution. They were known for their extravagant and daring fashion choices, as well as their extravagant and indulgent lifestyles. In protest against the excesses of the Terror period, a certain gilded youth was in search of lightness and pleasure. Consisting mainly of royalists, they launched a new fashion that was to become all the rage... février 25 6 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 6 3  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY– POST REVOLUTION LES MERVEILLEUSES Key elements of Merveilleuses fashion: The Merveilleuses wore diaphanous, high-waisted gowns made of lightweight fabrics like muslin and silk. Inspired by ancient Greek and Roman styles, their dresses were sheer and flowy, emphasizing a natural silhouette. Neoclassical influences with Greek sandals, turbans, and tunics. Challenging social norms, they opted for revealing styles with low necklines and exposed arms. Hairstyles were elaborate, piled high and adorned with feathers, ribbons, and sculptures. Heavy makeup was used to create a contrast with their pale skin and vibrant clothing. février 25 7 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 7 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – P O ST R E VO LU T I O N LES MERVEILLEUSES The Incroyables and Merveilleuses are a group of rather young people who, in the aftermath of the French Revolution (during the Directoire), distinguish themselves from the rest of society by their clothing. This period saw open critics of the revolution and the Terror; It was also a period of extravagance, relaxation and pleasure for the population, which was emerging from a very austere period. Madame Tallien By the painter Gérard février 25 8 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 8 4  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY– POST REVOLUTION PAULINE BONAPARTE Princess Borghèse 1780-1825 Napoleon’s sister février 25 9 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 9 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – P O ST R E VO LU T I O N PAULINE BONAPARTE Pauline Bonaparte, born as Paolina Buonaparte, was the younger sister of Napoleon Bonaparte and played a significant role in the French imperial family. Known for her beauty and charisma, Pauline lived a colorful life and had a distinct sense of fashion. février 25 10 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 10 5  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – P O ST R E VO LU T I O N PAULINE BONAPARTE Princess Borghèse 1780-1825 Napoleon’s sister Pauline was born on October 20, 1780, in Ajaccio, Corsica. She grew up in a family of modest means but later gained prominence through her brother's rise to power. Pauline's life was marked by a series of advantageous marriages, which helped elevate her status within French society. février 25 11 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 11 FASHION HISTORY– POST REVOLUTION février 25 12 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 12 6  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY– POST REVOLUTION PAULINE BONAPARTE A “Merveilleuse” CANOVA sculptor février 25 13 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 13 FASHION HISTORY– NAPOLEON & JOSEPHINE PART 5 Napoleon Josephine de Beauharnais février 25 14 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 14 7  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY– NAPOLEON & JOSEPHINE JOSEPHINE DE BEAUHARNAIS 1763-1814 Napoleon’s Muse février 25 15 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 15 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – N A P O L E O N & J O S E P H I N E EMPRESS JOSEPHINE DE BEAUHARNAIS février 25 16 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 16 8  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY– NAPOLEON & JOSEPHINE EMPRESS JOSEPHINE’S CORONATION février 25 17 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 17 FASHION HISTORY– LOUIS H. LEROY LOUIS HIPPOLYTE LEROY février 25 18 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 18 9  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S H. L E R OY février 25 19 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 19 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – N A P O L E O N & J O S E P H I N E THE EMPIRE DRESS The Empire style dress was in vogue between 1795 and 1820, named after the Empire and Josephine de Beauharnais, who was very influential in spreading this style throughout Europe. février 25 20 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 20 10  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – N A P O L E O N & J O S E P H I N E THE EMPIRE LIGNE 1795-1820 NEOCLASSICISM 1795-1820 clothing is considered a form of individual expression of the true self… rather than as a pure indication of social status. février 25 21 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 21 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S H. L E R OY DRESS FOR PRINCESS d’ECKÜHL By L.H. LEROY février 25 22 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 22 11  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY– NAPOLEON & JOSEPHINE EMPRESS JOSEPHINE’S CORONATION février 25 23 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 23 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – N A P O L E O N & J O S E P H I N E NAPOLEON DIVORCES JOSEPHINE 1809-1810 février 25 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 24 12  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – N A P O L E O N MARIE LOUISE D’AUTRICHE 2nd wife to Napoleon février 25 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 25 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – N A P O L E O N NAPOLEON II 1811-1832 février 25 26 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 26 13  05/02/2025 F A S H I O N H I S T O R Y – 2 nd E M P I R E N A P O L E O N I I I 2ND EMPIRE 1858-1870 LOUIS-NAPOLEON (III) BONAPARTE Emperor of France Empress Eugénie février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 27 27 F A S H I O N H I S T O R Y – 2 nd E M P I R E E M P R E S S E U G E N I E EMPRESS EUGENIE 1826-1920 Empress Eugénie & birth of Haute Couture. A major customer of Charles Frederick Worth. The original portrait of Empress Eugénie in Court Dress by Franz Xaver Winterhalter was the first official portrait made by the artist for Eugénie. Painted around 1853 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 28 28 14  05/02/2025 F A S H I O N H I S T O R Y – 2 nd E M P I R E E M P R E S S E U G E N I E PRINCESS EUGENIE 1826-1920 María Manuela Kirk- Patrick and her two daughters Maria and Eugenie. février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 29 29 F A S H I O N H I S T O R Y – 2 nd E M P I R E E M P R E S S E U G E N I E EMPRESS EUGÉNIE février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 30 30 15  05/02/2025 F A S H I O N H I S T O R Y – 2 nd E M P I R E E M P R E S S E U G E N I E IMPERIAL FESTIVITIES février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 31 31 FASHION HISTORY– WORTH Charles F. Worth Birth of Haute Couture février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 32 32 16  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY– WORTH CHARLES FREDERICK WORTH 1825-1895 MAISON 1858 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 33 février 25 33 HISTOIRE DE LA MODE CHARLES 1825-1895 MAISON 1858 -1900 Charles Frederick Worth Origins of Haute Couture Born in Bourne, England From a modest family background Apprenticed in the textile trade in London (merchants) Expert in textiles Settled in Paris in 1845 – worked at Gagelin, where he became the leading salesman – developed dress designs – won an award at the Exposition Universelle and decided to establish his own fashion house (the very first one!). février 25 34 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 34 17  05/02/2025 HISTOIRE DE L A MODE MAISON GAGELIN He began his career as a fabric merchant in London before settling in Paris, where he worked at Gagelin, a prestigious fabric house. His talent for dressmaking quickly became evident, leading him to establish his own fashion house, Maison Worth, in 1858 février 25 35 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 35 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – WO R T H HOUSE OF WORTH key events 1858 Worth established his dressmaking company 1860 Appointed Court couturier by Empress Eugénie 1865 Elisabeth of Austria painted wearing Worth crinoline by Winterhalter 1868 Chambre Syndicale de la Couture is established 1870 Collapse of the 2nd French Empire – Worth salon closes for a year 1870 3rd Republic is establised (lasts until 1940 & German invasion) 1871 House of Worth employs 1200 staff (seamstresses, embroiders, models, cutters, sales staff…) 1890 Belle Epoque period or Guilded Age (USA) 1895 Worth designs Consuelo Vanderbilt’s wedding dress 1895 Death of Charles Worth, his sons pursue the business 1901 Gaston-Lucien Worth employs Paul Poiret (1879-1944) who remains for 2 years, attempting to modernise the Worth designs Elizabeth of Austria wearing a Worth ball gown By Winterhalter 1865 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 36 36 18  05/02/2025 HISTOIRE DE L A MODE CHARLES & MARIE WORTH (née Marie Vernet) Marie Worth, French, wife of Charles Frederick Worth. Former saleswoman at Gagelin, where she met Charles. Played a key role in the launch and success of Maison Worth. The first to wear and promote her husband's designs. Contributed to developing client relationships février 25 37 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 37 FASHION HISTORY– WORTH HOUSE OF WORTH Eugénie a leading patron Princesse Eugénie By Winterhalter 1855 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 38 38 19  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY– WORTH THE WORTH BOUTIQUE 7 AVENUE DE LA PAIX PARIS février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 39 39 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – WO R T H THE WORTH STORE février 05/02/2025 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 40 40 40 20  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY– WORTH février 05/02/2025 25 F A S H I O N H I S T O©jayneestevecure-2021 RY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 41 41 41 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – WO R T H février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 42 42 21  05/02/2025 HISTOIRE DE L A MODE His designs captivated the aristocracy and royalty, including Empress Eugénie of France, Empress Elisabeth of Austria, and many influential women across Europe and the United States. Thanks to his creative genius, Paris became the fashion capital of the world. février 25 43 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 43 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – WO R T H février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 44 44 22  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – WO R T H 1895 DEATH OF CHARLES F.WORTH 3 generations àf the House of Worth Charles Frédéric Worth (1825-1895) Sons Gaston (1853-1924) & Jean Philippe (1856- 1926) Gaston's children Jean Charles (1881-1962) & Jacques (1882-1941). février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 45 45 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS 1858 - 1900 WORTH AFTER CHARLES Maison Worth remains a cornerstone of haute couture. His sons, Gaston Worth and Jean-Philippe Worth, took over and carried on their father’s legacy, upholding the excellence and prestige of the house. The Golden Age Under the Leadership of the Worth Sons Jean-Philippe Worth (1856–1926), trained by his father, ensured the continuity of the house’s signature style and innovation while modernizing designs to align with the evolving trends of the early 20th century. Gaston Worth (1853–1924) primarily managed the business operations and commercial development. Under their leadership, Maison Worth continued to dress the European and American elite, including members février 25 of the nobility and high society. HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 46 46 23  05/02/2025 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS 1858 - 1900 WORTH AFTER CHARLES Decline and Closure of Maison Worth With changing tastes and the rise of new designers such as Paul Poiret, fashion became more fluid and less structured than the lavish Worth gowns of the 19th century. During the 1920s and 1930s, the house gradually lost its influence as modernist designers like Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli gained prominence. In 1952, Maison Worth merged with Paquin, another prestigious Parisian couture house. However, faced with market changes and the rise of ready-to-wear fashion, Maison Worth permanently ceased operations House of House of in the 1950s. Worth Worth 1930 1940 février 25 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 47 47 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – R E N A I S S A N C E TO WO R T H PART 2 Worth to février 25 Vionnet FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 48 48 24  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E FRANCO PRUSSIAN WAR 1870-1871 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 49 49 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E Napoleon III, Eugenie and the Prince French Emperor Napoléon III Imperial in the and his wife Eugénie 1860s février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 50 50 25  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE THE DOWNFALL OF NAPOLEON III & THE 2ND EMPIRE Adolphe Thiers 1st President of the 3rd Republic Adolphe Thiers (1871-1873) 1st President of the French Third Republic. Played a significant role in stabilizing the government after the fall of Napoleon III's Second Empire février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 51 51 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE EUGENIE’S LIFE AFTER NAPOLEON & HER SON février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 52 52 26  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1871-1914 LA BELLE EPOQUE CROSSROADS OF 2 CENTURIES Europe experienced (after Franco-Prussian war) a long period of peace (4 decades) – this favoured extraordinary economical & technical progress. Emergence of a new class the « Bourgeoisie » who benefitted from economic progress. février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 53 53 FASHION HISTORY 1871-1918 LA BELLE EPOQUE 1871-1914 Sustained growth for France Period between : The Universal Exhibition of 1889 is considered to be the real beginning of the Belle Epoque: an artistic and intellectual effervescence. France experienced sustained growth thanks to the second industrial revolution: technical advances, artistic ebullience. févr.-25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 54 54 27  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 87 1 - 1 9 1 8 Universal exhibitions févr.-25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 55 55 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E ART & CULTURE FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 56 février 25 56 28  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E 1851-1870 PARIS CITY OF LIGHTS Avenue de l'Opéra, sun, winter morning (Camille Pissarro, 1897 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 57 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 57 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1861. OPERA GARNIER février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 58 58 29  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – A R T & C U LT U R E 1855/67/78/89. UNIVERSAL EXHIBITIONS février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 59 59 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – S O C I E T Y & I N N O VAT I O N S UNIVERSAL EXHIBITIONS février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 60 60 30  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E DEVELOPMENT OF URBANISM & ARCHITECTURE Baron Haussmann’s is commissioned to transform the city of Paris known for its overcrowding, insalubrity and susceptibility to epidemics , into a model of urban planning and hygiene. février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 61 61 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE 1861 DEVELOPMENT OF COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 62 62 31  05/02/2025 1858-1900 DELOPMENT OF PHOTOGRAPHY février 25 63 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 63 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE 1895 DEVELOPMENT OF CINEMATOGRAPHY The Lumière brothers, Auguste and Louis Lumière, invented the cinematograph, a device that enabled films to be projected. This marked the beginning of cinema. février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 64 64 32  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E ART NOUVEAU février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 65 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E ART NOUVEAU - ART DECO 1890 (Nouveau) 1910’S (Déco) ART NOUVEAU ART DECO End of 19th century Appeared in the 1910’s and flourished in the 1920’s. Reaction to excesses of industrialisation - mass production was considered to be soulless & unimaginative & cheap Died out in the 1930’s. A reaction to Art Nouveau. quality… A return to simplicity & sobriety. Advocating a return to crafsmanship to rediscover a taste for beauty in everyday objects with a decorative aestheticism. Art Nouveau is based on the aesthetics of curved lines, and precedes Art Deco and the Roaring Twenties. Artistic expression: Undulating shapes Artistic expression: Géometric lines Arabesques Flowery curves Refinement Symmetry Exuberance Trees, flowers, insects & animals as inspiration Use of new materials such as iron and glass février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 66 66 33  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E ART NOUVEAU Plant motifs were adopted from the decorative arts to create utilitarian objects such as furniture & tableware but also for jewelry or even architecture. METRO VASES ARCHITECTURE CERAMIC JEWELLERY STATIONS Emile Gallée Buildings by Jules Alexandre Bigot René Lalique Hector Guimard Flower silhouettes Lavirotte Exuberant Combination of Abstract vegetalism sometimes erotic precious metals, symbolism stones & floral corollas février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 67 67 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – CONTEXT & CULTURE ART MOVEMENTS (painters) IMPRESSIONISTS FROM IMPRESSIONISM CUBISM ABSTRACT ART 1874 TO CUBISM Breaking down vision of Elimination of all figurative Variations of colours Juxtapoistion flat areas of reality through intellectual representation according to light vivid colour & simplified lines restructuring Form & colour give meaning Auguste Renoir Gauguin Shapes imposed the cube, to a state of mind Cézanne sphere & cylinder Kandinsky Claude Monet Picasso (Demoiselles Van Gogh d’Avignon) Inspired by Africa février 25 68 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 68 34  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS SOCIETAL INNOVATIONS FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 69 février 25 69 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – S O C I E T Y & I N N O VAT I O N S 1850-1914 PROFOUND SOCIETAL CHANGES février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 70 70 35  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1850-1914 INDUSTRIAL 1847: 233 GARMENT MAKERS IN PARIS EMPLOY REVOLUTION OVER 7,000 WORKERS février 25 71 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 71 1858 - 1900 PARIS CITY OF LIGHTS Avenue de l'Opéra, sun, winter morning (Camille Pissarro, 1897 février 25 72 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 72 36  05/02/2025 1858 - 1900 A PROSPEROUS & BRILLIANT PERIOD FOR FRENCH ECONOMY & SOCIETY LE PONT DU CHEMIN DE FER À ARGENTEUIL (VAL D'OISE) CLAUDE MONET 1873 73 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 DISTRIBUTION DEVELOPMENT FROM 1850 CREATION OF "RETAIL SHOPKEEPERS" AND OPENING OF PARISIAN DEPARTMENT STORES: LE BON MARCHÉ 1852 LE PRINTEMPS 1855 LA SAMARITAINE 1865 LES GALERIES LAFAYETTE 1896 février 25 74 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 74 37  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 LE BON MARCHÉ 75 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 PARIS World Fairs 1855/67/78/89 février 25 76 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 76 38  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 LA BELLE ÉPOQUE 1989 EIFFEL TOUR 05/02/2025 H A U T E C O U T U R E I N ©jayneestevecure-2021 77 février 25 77 PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 77 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 LA BELLE ÉPOQUE 1989 EIFFEL TOUR février 25 78 HAUTE COUTURE IN PARIS A HISTORY OF STYLE & FASHION© 78 39  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1850-1914 PROFOUND SOCIETAL CHANGES février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 79 79 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – S O C I E T Y & I N N O VAT I O N S 1800-1850. INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION 1847: 233 GARMENT MAKERS IN PARIS EMPLOY OVER 7,000 WORKERS février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 80 80 40  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – C O N T E X T & C U LT U R E 1840. RAILWAY EXPANSION Prosperous & brilliant period for French economy & society Le pont du chemin de fer à argenteuil (val d'oise) Claude Monet 1873 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 81 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1852. DISTRIBUTION DEVELOPMENT FROM 1850 CREATION OF "RETAIL SHOPKEEPERS" AND OPENING OF PARISIAN DEPARTMENT STORES: LE BON MARCHÉ 1852 LE PRINTEMPS 1855 LA SAMARITAINE 1865 LES GALERIES LAFAYETTE 1896 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 82 82 41  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1852. LE BON MARCHÉ février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 83 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – S O C I E T Y & I N N O VAT I O N S 1860. VELOCIPEDE/BICYCLE A succession of inventions will profoundly change the way of life such as the bicycle. Pierre Michaux, a French blacksmith, is often credited with making the first modern pedal bicycle. This contributed to the bicycle's growing popularity as a means of transport. février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 84 84 42  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – S O C I E T Y & I N N O VAT I O N S 1886. AUTOMOBILE Karl Benz invented the three- wheeled Motor Car, known as the “Motorwagen”, in 1866 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 85 85 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – S O C I E T Y & I N N O VAT I O N S 1877. THE TELEPHONE Inventor Alexander Graham Bell –> allowed people to speak to each other over long distances février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 86 86 43  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – S O C I E T Y & I N N O VAT I O N S 1877. THE PHONOGRAPH Inventor Thomas Edison 1st device capable of both recording and reproducing sound, paving the way for the music and entertainment industries. février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 87 87 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – SOCIETY & INNOVATIONS 1879. THE LIGHTBULB Inventor Thomas Edison Incandescent electrical lightbulb –> improving the quality of life février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 88 88 44  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y 1 8 7 0 - 1 9 1 4 – S O C I E T Y & I N N O VAT I O N S 1903. THE AIRPLANE The Wright brothers birth of aviation US février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 89 89 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS FASHION SYSTEM EVOLUTION FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 90 février 25 90 45  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS PRINCESS EUGENIE 1826-1920. The original portrait of Empress Eugénie in Court Dress by Franz Xaver Winterhalter was the first official portrait made by the artist for Eugénie. Painted around 1853 février 25 91 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 91 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – FASHION EVOLUTIONS PRINCESS EUGENIE The reign of the crinoline Empress Eugénie helped popularize many of the fashion trends of her time. Empress Eugénie holding her son, on the steps of the Château de Compiègne terrace October 1856 (photo Olympe Aguado) février 25 92 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 92 46  05/02/2025 FAS H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – FAS H I O N E VO LU T I O N S 1868. Chambre syndicale de la confection et de la couture pour dames et fillettes Organizing & protecting the Couture profession février 25 93 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 93 FASHION HISTORY 1850-1914 – LA BELLE EPOQUE Fashion evolution THE “S” LINE LA BELLE EPOQUE THE S LINE A new slenderer silhouette with a sinuous line: févr.-25 94 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 94 47  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 – L A B E L L E E P O Q U E Fa s h i o n evo l u t i o n 1870-1900 THE CORSET & NEW «S» LINE Changes occuring in fashion for women would reflect societal changes: Crinolines and tournures were gradually abandonned The corset was adopted by all to give the S shape Women were more active and fashion gradually liberated the body Skirts lost volume However the skin was still hidden to a maximum févr.-25 95 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 95 FASHION HISTORY 1850-1914 – LA BELLE EPOQUE Fashion evolution 1870-1900 ESTABLISHMENT OF READY-TO-WEAR Democratising fashion The 2nd industrial evolution facilitated manufacturing clothes in large quantities inducing the birth & development of Ready-to-Wear fashion. During 2nd half of the 19th century, department stores were established in Paris such as the Samaritaine & Le Bon Marché. A new way to buy R2W making fashion accessible to a larger audience. The founder of Le Bon Marché innovated distribution in several ways establishing a new way to buy: Fixed prices Products layed out and merchandized Possibility of exchanging articles Distance selling First sales févr.-25 96 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 96 48  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 – L A B E L L E E P O Q U E Fa s h i o n evo l u t i o n THE GIRDLE REPLACES THE CORSET A pivotal period for fashion The female silhouette became more fluid & flexible. The waistline became less pronounced Looser & less voluminous skirts announce the end of the petticoat The corset is gradually abandonned (largely due to the couturier Paul Poiret) Corset replaced by the Girdle* supple & lighter undergarment Form-fitting foundation garment encircling the lower torso for shape & support The bra is invented giving more freedom of https://www.andreaschewedesign.com/blog/corset- movement history-1900-to-present févr.-25 97 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 97 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 – L A B E L L E E P O Q U E Fa s h i o n evo l u t i o n WOMEN'S WEAR Belle Epoque févr.-25 98 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 98 49  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S JACQUES DOUCET 1853-1929 MAISON 1875 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 99 février 25 99 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S JACQUES DOUCET 1853-1929 Jacques Doucet was a major French couturier, collector and patron of the arts, and a leading figure in Parisian artistic and literary life from 1880-1920. février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 100 100 50  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS JACQUES DOUCET Art Collector Through his successful couturier business, Jacques Doucet amassed an impressive art collection, including paintings, sculptures, furniture, marquetry, prints, and books. février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 101 février 25 101 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S 1880 1900 1910 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 102 102 51  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS JAQUES DOUCET designs février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 103 103 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S View of Jacques Doucet's Saint-James studio in Neuilly- sur-Seine, published in the Illustration in 1938 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 104 104 52  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S JOHN REDFERN 1820-1895 MAISON 1881 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 105 février 25 105 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S 1881 JOHN REDFERN 1855 John founded his British tailoring company Redfern limited was established in Cowes on the Isle of Wight. 1881 John Redfern developed his company into a prominent Couture House through the subsidiary he opened in Paris. Other branches were opened in London (1878) & New York (1884) functioning as tailors. The house remained active between 1855-1932 and then 1936-1940 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 106 106 53  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S JOHN REDFERN IN HIS ATELIER février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 107 107 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S HOUSE OF REDFERN From Sporting occasions to Couture février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 108 108 54  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 109 109 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 110 février 25 110 55  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS 1882 HOUSE OF REDFERN « Dressmaker By Royal Appointment » for Queen Victoria février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 111 111 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S 1895 HOUSE OF REDFERN Became a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 112 112 56  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S 1915 JOHN REDFERN Internationalisation février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 113 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS REDFERN 'Rugby’. Hobble-skirted suit. April 1914 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 114 114 57  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS 1915 JOHN REDFERN Day dress – woman’s suit février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 115 115 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S 1916 REDFERN février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 116 116 58  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS 1920’s REDFERN février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 117 117 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS The house closed in the 1930s février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 118 118 59  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 87 1 - 1 9 1 8 JEANNE PAQUIN févr.-25 119 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 119 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S JEANNE PAQUIN 1869-1936 MAISON 1891 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 120 février 25 120 60  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 – J e a n n e P a q u i n JEANNE PAQUIN 1869-1936 Jeanne Paquin was the 1st « Queen » of French fashion, Couturier of the Belle Epoque. février 25 121 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 121 HISTOIRE DE L A MODE LANCEMENT DE LA MAISON DE COUTURE PAQUIN 1891 Born Jeanne Beckers in Saint-Denis. Trained in sewing before joining the Maison Rouff, where she perfected her craft. In 1891, she married Isidore Paquin, a financier. Together, they founded Maison Paquin in Paris. février 25 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 122 122 61  05/02/2025 HISTOIRE DE L A MODE Jeanne Paquin was the first "Queen" of French fashion, the couturier of the Belle JEANNE PAQUIN Époque. 1869-1936 FRENCH COUTURIER -> PIONEER AND QUEEN OF PARISIAN FASHION Jeanne Paquin is an essential figure in French fashion, recognized as one of the first female couturiers to make her mark in a sector then dominated by men. Trained as an apprentice at the fashion house Maison Rouff, she perfected her sewing skills and honed her design sense before founding her own fashion house, Maison Paquin, in 1891. She developed a keen sense of style and innovation early on, allowing her to build a solid reputation in the fashion world.. février 25 123 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 123 HISTOIRE DE LA MODE JEANNE PAQUIN 1869-1936 A MAJOR FIGURE IN FASHION DURING THE BELLE ÉPOQUE Adopted softer cuts and innovative patterns, playing with colors and materials to enhance femininity. Dressed the aristocracy, upper bourgeoisie, and leading actresses of the time, establishing her fashion house as an indispensable reference. Her success transcended French borders, attracting an international clientele, particularly in England and the United States. février 25 124 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 124 62  05/02/2025 HISTOIRE DE LA MODE JEANNE PAQUIN Innovative style MODERNIZATION OF THE FEMALE SILHOUETTE février 25 125 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 125 HISTOIRE DE LA MODE JEANNE PAQUIN Innovative style A PIONEER IN FASHION MARKETING AND STAGING février 25 126 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 126 63  05/02/2025 HISTOIRE DE LA MODE PAQUIN COUTURE HOUSE 1910 février 25 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 127 127 FASHION HISTORY 1850-1914 – Jeanne Paquin JEANNE PAQUIN (1869–1936) février RUE 25 DE LA PAIX 05/02/2025 ©jayneestevecure-2021 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 128 128 128 64  05/02/2025 HISTOIRE DE L A MODE Day dress Evening Suit Circa 1890 late 1890’s février 25 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 129 129 HISTOIRE DE L A MODE JEANNE PAQUIN ROBE DE BAL Circa 1895 février 25 130 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 130 65  05/02/2025 HISTOIRE DE L A MODE février 25 131 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 131 FASHION HISTORY 1850-1914 – Jeanne Paquin LAUNCH OF THE PAQUIN COUTURE HOUSE 1891 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 132 132 66  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS LES SŒURS CALLOT 1857-1927 (Marie) MAISON 1895 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 133 février 25 133 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS THE CALLOT SISTERS 1895-1930 Marie Callot-Bertrand Marthe Callot R e g i n a C a l l o t - Te n n y s o n - C h a n t r e l Josephine Callot-Crimon février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 134 134 67  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S SŒURS CALLOT février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 135 135 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 – T h e C a l l o t S i s t e r s février 25 136 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 136 68  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S SŒURS CALLOT Success during the 1910’s & 1920’s février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 137 137 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S Circa 1912 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 138 138 69  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS "Without the Callot sisters I would have made Fords, with them I made Rolls-Royces » Madeleine Vionnet février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 139 139 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S CALLOT SISTERS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITIONS PARIS 1900-1925 SAN FRANCISCO 1917 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 140 140 70  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 – T h e C a l l o t S i s t e r s PERFUMES 1923 Bel Oiseau Bleu 1923 Chichicallot 1923 Il Pleut des Baisers 1923 La Fille du Roi de Chine 1923 Le Louis D'Or 1940s Jeep 1947 Dieu du Jour 1947 Bao 1947 Mariage D'Amour FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 141 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 – T h e C a l l o t S i s t e r s RUE DE LA PAIX end of the 19th Century février 05/02/2025 25 ©jayneestevecure-2021 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 142 142 142 71  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET 1879-1944 MAISON 1903 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 143 février 25 143 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 144 72  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET 1879-1944 Liberating the female body from the corset février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 145 145 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET Beginnings Poiret's parents apprenticed him to an umbrella maker. Paul Poiret's passion for fashion ignited when he ingeniously repurposed scraps of silk that remained from the cutting of umbrella patterns. With these remnants, he skillfully crafted miniature garments for a doll, a precious gift from one of his sisters. Paul Poiret | Parasol | Japanese février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 146 146 73  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S The house was particularly known for its suits and afternoon dresses , and later for its evening dresses and coats, furs, children's clothing, lingerie, corsages and trousseaux. M A I S O N LO U I S E C H E R U I T 05.02.25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 147 février 25 147 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET His mentor Jacques Doucet 1896 - 1901 Went to work for famous Maison Doucet `` Paul Poiret was hired as a fashion designer by Doucet in 1898, Learned to cut and drape Acquired sewing techniques Emulated Doucet’s style: sophistication, elegance & modernity Rose to become workshop manager février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 148 148 74  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET Trained at the House of Worth 1901-1903 After his military service he goes to work for Maison Worth Jean-Philippe and Gaston, the 2 Worth sons, had taken over from their father, the founder of haute couture Poiret found himself in the midst of a couture house that clung to outdated traditions and operated in a somewhat confined atmosphere. Poiret stirred up controversy with his daring fashion choices. His minimalist dresses and an innovative "Chinese" coat called Confucius, crafted from a mere folded panel of woolen fabric, became a cause for scandal. The Maison Worth did not appreciate Poiret’s moderninity and they parted their ways House of Worth by Jea-Philippe 1901 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 149 149 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET 1908 establishes his own Haute Couture House février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 150 150 75  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 151 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET a family man Paul Poiret married Denise Boulet (1886-1982) in Paris on October 5, 1905. The couple had five children: Rosine (born 1906), Perrine (circa 1910), Martine (1911) , Colin (1912) and Gaspard (circa 1913). février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 152 152 76  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET 1906 Abandons the corset février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 153 153 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET Orientalism février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 154 154 77  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET extravagance février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 155 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET Oriental Parisian Parties février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 156 156 78  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 8 5 0 - 1 9 1 4 – P a u l P o i r e t Modernity PAUL POIRET silhouette simplification 05.02.25 157 H A U TF EA SCHOI U O TNU H R IES ITNO R PYA R©I JS A AY NH EI S STIM OORN Y EOE FS TSETVY EL C E U&R EF 2A 0S 2H3I O N © 157 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET silhouette simplification février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 158 158 79  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 159 159 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET silhouette simplification février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 160 160 80  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET orientalism février 25 161 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 161 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S PAUL POIRET orientalism février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 162 162 81  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S Poiret the precursor Promotional trips abroad février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 163 163 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S HOLLYWOOD JOAN CRAWFORD 1927 MAE WEST 1927 février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 164 164 82  05/02/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S ATELIER MARTINE 1911 Poiret opens a retail store in Paris called "Les Ateliers de Martine," where he sold not only his own designs, but also furniture, fabrics, and art objects. The store was decorated in an exotic orientalist style, which was another first for the time. février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 165 165 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 166 166 83  05/02/2025 FASHION HISTORY 1870-1914 – PARISIAN COUTURIERS PARFUMS ROSINE Précurseur diversification février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 167 167 FA S H I O N H I STO RY 1 870 - 1 9 1 4 – PA R I S I A N C O U T U R I E R S T h e e n d of a fa b u l o u s s to r y At the end of November 1929, the Paul Poiret company closes due to the economic crisis. février 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 168 168 84