Fashion History MCQ Prep.pdf

Silhouette: the general shape or outline of the human body 5 Main terms to describe Dress: - Dress draped/wrapped - Dress put on through the head, arms - Dress sewn and closed - Dress sewn and open - Fitted dress close to the body/form fitting c.10000 BCE: Humans populate most of the landmasses on E...

Silhouette: the general shape or outline of the human body 5 Main terms to describe Dress: - Dress draped/wrapped - Dress put on through the head, arms - Dress sewn and closed - Dress sewn and open - Fitted dress close to the body/form fitting c.10000 BCE: Humans populate most of the landmasses on Earth c.7000 BCE: Developments of the first human settlements Hunter-gatherers - Men experienced their first discomforts, wearing animal hides and fur to protect themselves from the cold - Fur skins were heavy & thick & impractical & uncomfortable & worn only for functionality - “To protect oneself from the cold” ICE AGE 불편함 - Offered a protection, but the skins were being rigid and dry - Tanning technique: improved techniques with the use of tannin from the bark of trees and animal fats - Came when the hunter-gatherers settled - Areni-1 shoe found in 2008, 5500 yrs old - Clothing techniques improved more elaborately - Implemented the creation of tools & fire - Ötzi found in the Schnalstal glacier in the Otztal Alps, Europe’s oldest natural human mummy - Found the first evidence of fashion body adornments of decoration on a man in the Shanidar Cave - Remains of early make up (red iron oxide) and rubbed manganese Fashion Symbols (Clothing & Gender roles) - The decoration indicates the fertility for women Bone needle discovered in Sibudu Cave → evidence of people cutting & sewing skins Milder climates - Men were discovering animal fibers & natural fibers as they were not confronted to the long ice age periods - Felt was on of the earliest ancient textile Ancient Egypt (3100 BC to 332 BC) Early Dynastic Period 3100-2968 BC Old Kingdom 2686-2181 BC 1st Intermediate Period 2181-2055 BC Middle Kingdom 2055-1650 BC 2nd Intermediate Period 1650-1550 BC New Kingdom 1550-1069 BC 3rd Intermediate Period 1069-664 BC Late Period 664-332 BC Achaemenid Egypt 525-332 BC *From Protection to Ornamentation Ancient Egypt displays the first signs of social status & identity through clothing - Egyptians used natural fibers, clothing was mainly made from linen (flax) - Animal fibers were forbidden, thought it was impure - Book of the dead: shows harvest of flax from a linen mummy bandage 옷감 Main Egyptian Clothing Styles 1. Loin Cloths/Shenti: wrap around skirts 2. Dresses/Longer Garments: made of rectangular lengths of cloth 3. Long & Short Cloaks and Shawls 4. Clothing made of squares and rectangles 5. Footwear: Sashes and Strap sandals or barefeet 6. Kalasiris/Calasiri: sheath dress *Clothing defines social relations/social status/nobility - Wearing clothes was the sign of higher status - Slaves wore very little clothes and covered with loincloth/shenti - Shenti: rectangular piece of cloth wrapped around the hips and tucked into the waist or held with a belt Old Kingdom - Basic design; short skirts, long narrow aprons, and loincloths - Noble man with short loincloth pleated with a belt & medium long hair & pectoral around the neck - Servant with a sheath dress with two straps falling to the ankles & long hair & jewelry Middle Kingdom - Men: the hem 단 of skirts get longer, pleating 주름가공 first shown - Women: opaque under skirt with diaphanous 얇고 속이 비치는 outer layers - Pharaoh with a mid-calf loincloth & starched apron with triangular shape & elaborate ornament - Slave with a sheath dress & long braided hair New Kingdom - Fashion gets androgynous, pleating & fringing, jewelry & ornaments - Priest with a pleated Kalasiris & scented/perfumed cone & curled-up toe sandals - Noble women/slave with sheath gown & jewelry & scented/perfumed cone Animal fibers → privilege of priests and pharaohs - Leopard Skin (served the god Amun) Women wore long sheath dresses (form fitting look) that fell down to the ankles - Made with linen because of the hot climate of egypt - Also used straps crossed in the back below the breast - Used bead (net sheath dress) which was worn over a sheath dress Kalasiris gradually replaced the sheath dress or worn over it - Sleeved kalasiris: linen gown worn by egyptian women *Difference of classes was made through the quality of material * Cleanliness brings you closer to the gods Wigs & Clean Shaved Heads - Hair was a strong signifiers of power and rites 의식 of passages from the child to adulthood - Real hair wigs & horsehair & palm fiber & linen dyed black Headdresses - The pschent - The double crown was the symbol of reunification of 2 Egypts won by Pharaohs - White Crown - Hedjet - Red Crown - Deshret - Blue Crown - Khepresh Make-Up & Jewelry Symbolic Elements: - Scarab, Sun God and Rebirth - Sacred Cobra (Uraeus): symbol of Lower Egypt - Vulture: symbol of Upper Egypt - Gods and Goddesses Jewelry was made with simple natural materials (plant branches, shells, beads, solid sones or bone) with symbolic elements - Arranged on linen threads or cow hair → evolved into jewelry made of gold and silver with solid semi-precious stones (tourmaline, gold, turquoise, agate, silver) - Necklace/Pectoral (heavy and thick) were attached to leather or cloth neckline Tuthânkhamon’s Breastplate - a gold boat and a silver lunar disc with counterweight & chain - Main materials: lapis lazuli, carnelian, turquoise, green feldspar, red jasper, obsidian Gold Breastplate - Shape of an eagle with outstretched wings & inlays of lapis lazuli, carnelian and glass Wedjat Eye/Eye of Horus - Use a black powder called kohl & rimmed eyes both for men and women - Poor and rich were alike Personal Hygiene - The Egyptians were possibly the cleanest civilization - Used fragrances, oils, and ointments to perfume their bodies Ancient Greece (1200 BC to 800 BC) *civilization that emphasizes external signs of beauty Some city-states were landlocked towns in the middle of the mountains with impassable borders Mother City-States - Athens, Sparta, Corinth, Syracuse, Aegina, Rodos Ancient Greece was made up of hundreds of largely independent other city-states, in part due to the geography of Greece Ancient Greeks share a common culture and religion around sporting events - Culture unites them through traditions such as the Panhellenic Games (held in honor of the Gods & other sporting competitions) 4 types of Panhellenic Games: - Olympic Games in Olympia - Pythian Games at Delphi - Isthmian Games in Corinth - Nemean Games first in Nemea Gender Roles - Nudity was the norm & sign of heroic masculinity - Greek society does not prohibit public nudity at least for men - Women and men bathed separately - Gender roles are redefined through clothing - Roles between men and women are redefined but not visible clearly through the cut of the clothes Social class classifications redefines status (free vs slave, man vs woman) - Ancient greeks work on a system of opposition Status of Women in Ancient Greece - Not equal to men, had minor role & few rights - Were under control and protection of their father, husband, or male relative - Not allowed to occupy a position in politics or law BUT occupied a religious role as a priestess (codified by wearing red and white) - Usually stayed at home, went out very little always accompanied by male relative - Pale skin due to long stay inside their home - Chiton and peplos cover the entire legs up to ankles even though arms were bare & variety of clothes - Greek myth & legends contribute to women’s inferiority - Myth of Pandora: first woman created by Zeus in Greek mythology, opens a jar that contains all the worst fate that befalls humanity (war, famine, old age, pride) - Root to the inferior status of women in Greek society Law giver Zaleucus from the 7th century: “Women are not allowed to wear conspicuous clothing with a purple border or gold jewelry.” Clothing shows a culture of drapery, indicating that there is little or no sewing at all - Peplus - Chiton - Himation - Strophion The Evolution of the Chiton & Peplos Doric Peplos (a style of tunic) 550 BC Ionic Chiton 550 BC to 480 AD Doric Chiton 400 BC to 100 AD Hellenistic Chiton 300 BC to 100 AD Peplos were worn by both genders but dominantly by women until the 6th century - Large rectangular woven & sleeveless piece of fabric opened on the right side - Worn over the chiton - There are also peplos opened on the left side - Fixed with two fibulae or flanges (고대 그리스, 로마에서 옷을 어깨에 고정시키는 데 사용되었던 장식적인 브로치/핀 종류) - Made of thick wool - Open peplos has no side seams & allows for a glimpse of one side of the body - Kolpos: puffed over fold, excess of fabric - Apoptygma: excess upper fabric on the torso 몸통 & falls at the back or can be used as a veil to cover face - Around the waist by a belt (zoster, a leather belt) or a cord - Gradually replaced by the Chiton (worn with an Himation) Chiton (khiton) is the most common of everyday clothing for the Greek - Lighter drape often worn under the peplos - 2 rectangular pieces of fabric sewn together, cinched 묶다 at the waist by a cord - Used wool or linen, with silk for higher status - Tunic which is carried by both men and women (2 types of chiton) - Women should wear long, men could wear it mid-calf or down to the knees (held in place by belt/rope) - Doric chiton was made by wool & sometime decorated, length varied by usage and status (fold is longer than Ionic chiton) - Ionic chiton exist with/without sleeves, draped and pleated, cinched at the at the waist Women should wear long, men could wear it mid-calf or down to the knees (held in place by belt/rope) Cloaks & Mantles Himation: long coat of various sizes, made of thick wool Chlamys was a cape worn during the 6th century held on the right/left shoulder with a fibulae - Common to find warlords, soldiers, and horse riders wearing it - Exclusive to men Diplax is worn mainly by women/young men held on the right/left shoulder with a fibulae Strophion is a first bra for women, a soft band worn over the mid-section of the body - Bikini Girls from the Villa Romana del Casale (4th Century AD) Apodesmos is a band of clothing that looks like a brad flattening the breasts under the tunic Color Codes Yellow/Green - women, Red - battlefield, Purple - wealth, Black - mourning 애도 The clothes have rustic colors/shades of off white, brown, beige, saffron yellow due to difficulty of fixing the hues - Discovered by the Phoenicians, crimson purple, amethyst, and violet are obtained from 2 shells: murex & purple - Luxurious color providing power/richness due to the cost and difficulty in extracting the color from the seashells Fabric Patterns - Usually on embroidery on Greek clothes - The Greek meandering 구불구불 key - Seaside motifs, the wave - Floral motifs (palm leaves, lotus leaves, mythology) - Geometric patterns (checkerboard, rhombuses 마름모) Headdresses - Various of heavily decorated bronze - Helmets for men, Phrygian mitre, Corinthian helmets - Young men were shaved, old men had a beard - Men: pileus or pilos, made of felt - Petaso: wide brimmed traveling hat for men hanging loosely at the back - Women: curls/ringlets gathered in a woolen filet/hair net (Sakkos) - Hair rolled up, covered by bands & richly decorated with golden diadems, tiaras, laurel wreaths 화환, and caps - Longhairs meant superpowers Veils → sign of respectability - Possible to distinguish between honorable women/less honorable (slaves/prostitutes) - Tanagra cap Jewelry Women wore a lot jewelry during Hellenistic period (earings, necklaces, pendants, pins, fibulae, rings, etc) - Wore bracelets at the top of the arms adorned with animal heads (goats, bulls, lions, griffins, rams) or above the ankles on the legs Engraved Hellenic Jewelry - Jewelry was popular and widespread in Greece - Hellenic jewels were engraved & ornaments sometimes functional (signet rings, annulus, pendants, cameos) - Manufactured with various techniques (filigree 금줄 세공) God Hellenistic Jewelry - Gold → abundance in Hellenistic Greece after the conquest of Alexander the Great, stimulating the demand for more luxury ornaments Shoes Greek footwear is made from a variety of materials (leather, wood, felt) - Introduced around 146 BCE - Majority of Greeks wear open sandals sometimes with leather sole 밑창 interwoven with straps of different materials & colors (crepida) - Talaria: sandal with wings (attributed to Hermès) - Cothurnus: worn during greek tragedies by actors - Greek courtesan 창녀 (Pornai): used a specific communication technique to lure their customers with golden sandals written “follow me” Pale skin was common/prefered for women → used toxic lead based powders to whiten their skin - One thick eyebrow (unibrow) made with khôl or fake brow was also popular War Clothing Hoplite: war clothing made with bronze, Greek armor of the Spartan Soldiers at the 7th century BCE Greaves: offer protection on the legs Exomis: Greek infantry 보병대 tunic made of linen (red), wore under the armour and belted