Fashion History Course 2025

• This document outlines the topics for a Fashion History course in 2025, including evaluations and an introduction to key periods and figures

Evaluation Overview

• Consists of one class contribution, oral presentations, and partial exams
• The first class contribution is due February 12th
• Oral presentations will occur during the last lesson on March 10th
• Presentations should be in duos and last 10 minutes.
• Requires accompanying written documentation
• Oral presentations require:
• Contextualizing the historical period.
• Focusing on a specific personality of the time
• Considering the repercussions on today's fashion
• Suggested presentation topics include:
• Rococo & Marie Antoinette
• Merveilleuses & Josephine de Beauharnais
• Belle Époque & Jeanne Paquin
• 1930s & Jean Patou
• 1980s & Thierry Mugler

Study Topics

• Allocated historical periods should be studied, exploring fashion repercussions
• Key questions to be addressed for each period:
• What were the major social and cultural events?
• What 2 major clothing innovations occurred and can be analyzed?
• What impact on more recent fashion was inspired? (since the 20th century
• For relevant Maisons/Designers/Fashion figures:
• Choose either 3 fashion shows or 3 fashion-related happenings, describe and develop an argument
• What is of particular interest in this period regarding apparel and fashion trends?

The Merveilleuses

• Fashionable group of women in Paris during the French Directory period (1795-1799).
• Followed the French Revolution
• Known for extravagant and daring options, as well as indulgent lifestyles
• In search of lightness and pleasure, they protested against the excesses of the Terror
• They consisted mainly of royalists, launching a new fashion trend
• Key elements included:
• Diaphanous, high-waisted gowns made of lightweight fabrics (muslin and silk)
• Dresses were sheer and flowy, inspired by ancient Greek and Roman styles. to emphasize a natural silhouette
• Neoclassical influences with Greek sandals, turbans, and tunics.
• They challenged social norms by opting for revealing styles: low necklines and exposed arms
• Hairstyles were elaborate, piled high, and adorned with feathers, ribbons, and sculptures.
• Heavy makeup contrasted with pale skin and vibrant clothing
• The Incroyables and Merveilleuses distinguished themselves from society through their clothing
• Their period displayed open critics of the revolution and the Terror
• Period of extravagance, relaxation, and pleasure as the population transitioned from austerity

Pauline Bonaparte

• Also known as Paolina Buonaparte
• Younger sister of Napoleon Bonaparte
• Significant role in the French imperial family
• Known for her beauty, charisma, colorful life, and distinct sense of fashion
• Born October 20, 1780, in Ajaccio, Corsica
• Grew up in a family of modest means, later gaining prominence
• Life involved advantageous marriages, which elevated her status in French society.
• Was a Merveilleuse

Josephine de Beauharnais

• Lived from 1763-1814
• Was Napoleon's Muse
• Had an Empress Coronation

Louis Hippolyte Leroy

• Was active during the time of Napoleon and Josephine

Empire Dress

• It was in vogue from 1795-1820.
• Empire dress was named after the Empire and Josephine de Beauharnais.
• It was influential in spreading through out Europe

The Empire Ligne

• Lasted 1795-1820
• Neoclassicism saw clothing being taken as a form of individual expression rather than a status symbol

Napoleons Divorce

• Divorce from Josephine occurred from 1809-1810

Napoleons Wives

• Marie Louise D'Autriche was Napoleon's 2nd Wife
• Napoleon II lived from 1811-1832

Second Empire under Louis-Napoleon

• Lasted from 1858-1870
• Louis-Napoleon Bonaparte (III) was the Emperor of France during this time
• Empress Eugénie was empress during this time, playing a key role in giving birth to Haute Couture

Empress Eugenie

• Lived from 1826 to 1920
• Portrait in Court Dress by Franz Xaver Winterhalter, was the first official portrait made by the artist
• Was a major customer of Charles Frederick Worth

Charles Frederick Worth

• Worth helped give birth to Haute Couture
• He lived from 1825-1895
• The Maison was founded in 1858.
• His career started as a fabric merchant in London
• Then moved to Paris, where he worked at Gagelin.
• Maison Worth was founded in 1858
• Marie Worth helped launch a new style with her husband Charles

House of Worth

• Events included:
• 1858: Worth Estäblished dressmaking company
• 1860: Appointed court couturier by Empress Eugénie.
• 1865: Elisabeth of Austria wearing Worth crinoline by Winterhalter?
• 1868: Chambre Syndicale de la Couture is established.
• 1870: Collapse of the 2nd French Empire
  • Worth salon closes for a year
  • The salon was in operation from the 3rd republic until the German invasion in 1940
• Employed 1200 staff in 1871 including seamstresses, embroiders, models, cutters, sales staff...
• The Belle Epoque Period or Guilded Age in USA occurred in 1890
• He designed Consuelo Vanderbilt's wedding dress
• Charles Worth died in 1895, his sons pursuing the business
• Gaston-Lucien Worth hired Paul Poiret (1879-1944) worked for 2 years attempting to modernise Maison Worth

Worth Boutique

• Was located at 7 Avenue de la Paix Paris
• Designs captivated the aristocracy and royalty.

1895 Death of Charles F Worth

• Included 3 subsequent house generations
• Charles Frédéric Worth (1825-1895)
• Sons Gaston (1853-1924) & Jean Philippe (1856-1926)
• Gaston's children Jean Charles (1881-1962) & Jacques (1882-1941)
• Maison Worth continues as a cornerstone of haute couture after Charles' death.
• Gaston Worth & Jean-Phillippe Worth took over managing their fathers legacy
• ensured the continuity of the house's signature style and innovation while modernizing designs to align
  • managed the business operations
• Maison Worth continued to dress the elite of Europe and America.
• In 1952 Maison Worth, merged with Paquin
• and gradually lost wealth Maison closed permanently by 1950s

Franco Prussian War

• Lasted from 1870-1871

The Belle Epoque

• Lasted from 1871-1914
• Europe experienced peace for 4 decades which favored extraordinary economical & technical progress
• A new class emerged "Bourgeoisie" who benefitted from progress

The Eiffel Tower

• La Belle Epoque occurred in 1989

Art Nouveau

• Lasted from 1890-1910
• Nouveau translates to new
• Reaction to the Industrial revelation
• Advocated a return to craftsmanship
• Characterized by curved lines, preceding Art Deco / Roaring Twenties.

Art Deco

• Appeared in the 1910's, flourished in the 1920's.
• It died out in the 1930's.
• In reaction to Art Nouveau
• Characterized by a return to simplicity & sobriety

Industrial Revolution

• Saw the industrial revolution of fabric

Societal and Distribution Evolutions

• Society saw a distribution revolution
• Retail creations
• and departmental stores

Railway expansion

• The railway was prosperous, and it allowed society to expand, including culture

Societeal Inventions

• Societeal Inventions included Velocepede (Bicycle)
• Profoundly changed way of life
  • with the help of Pierre Michaux
  • Made the bicycle popular

Innovations

• Automobile
• Karl Benz invented one in 1866
  • Called "Motowagen

Parisians

• Paquin, Redfern and Doucet where famous Parisian Couturiers

Jeanne Paquin

• Born: 1869-1936
• Maison: 1891 French Couturier -> pioneer and queen of Parisian fashion
• An important person in French fashion
• She adopted softer cuts innovative patterns, enhanced feminity, and designed for the elite
• Recognized became Queen of French Fashion or Courtier of Belle Epoque

Callot Sisters

• There was: Maria Callot-Bertrand
• Marthe Callot
• Regina Callot-Tennyson-Chantret
• Josephine Callot-Crimon
• They were the creators of: Bel Oaseau Bleu
• Chochicallet
• I Pleut des Basers
• La Fillet du Ria de China
• Le Lous d' or
• Jeep
• dieu bu jour Bae Mariage d amour

Paul Poiret

• Created 1979-1944
• Established Maison by 1903
• Poiret's parents were the umbrella makers Poiret apprenticed too
• Paul Poiret was hired as a fashion designer by Doucet in 1898

Fashion History Course 2025 with evaluation overview, including class contributions, oral presentations, and partial exams. Key periods and figures are introduced. The first class contribution is due February 12th.