Fashion And Textiles Past Paper PDF

*Fashion and textiles* Final test - multiple choices questions - 16.12. 2024 -- test questions from the last year - identification of materials - there is additional reading and mandatory reading - additional reading is not a material for the final exam - mandatory reading WILL be...

*Fashion and textiles* Final test - multiple choices questions - 16.12. 2024 -- test questions from the last year - identification of materials - there is additional reading and mandatory reading - additional reading is not a material for the final exam - mandatory reading WILL be in the final exam *1^st^ lesson -- Linen* SAPE -- Société des ambianceurs et personnes élégantes - making special textiles for european - liberated black men, typically men - Sapeur -- textiles and coloniality - to exchange the fashion from Europe to different states - fashion appropriation Arpillera - 1970 -1990 - Chile - deeper messages of trauma or violence - women gathered together to make these textiles as a message of resistence - there are always more profound reasons why we wear what we wear - understanding the intersectional forms of textiles in form of gender, society... *Textiles* - not only basic necessities but also carrier of societal, political weight from birth to death - textile industry is the Second largest industry in the world (economics and workforce) - Oil = First in the world - metaphors = social fabric, moral fibre - typically assigned to women - cultural and spiritual medium - cotton and wool were pivotal in society, in establishing the politics *Linen* - art -- signifies wealth, social status, indignity - weavings are moved in the sound of music, musical motions, in order to create the pattern - Egypt, Mesopotamia, Flanders -- key industry in Europe bcs of its high quality - earliest textiles = **30,000 years old, discovered in 2009 in Georgia (near the Black Sea)** - **baskets, ropes, dresses** - very hard to find, bcs of their disintegration into earth - entertwining history in Anciet Egyptian textiles and Flanders **Tarkhan dress** - the oldest garment we know of is a dress. It was found in Tarkhan, Egypt, in 1913 by archaeologists and is made of linen. - air, light, it wrinkels - highest quality Egyptian linen - when it got to Europe we easily forgot about it - linen vyzerá ako čakanka, modrý kvet, svetofialová farba, cca 1 m, 10 semienok každý kvet, kvitne iba JEDEN DEŇ, - kosenie na konci novembra, počas povodní Nílu, muži aj ženy *Stages of Linen production*: 1. sowing 2. harvest 3. rippling = vlnenie 4. retting = korekcia -- po tom ako sa heads odstránia, aby vlákno zmäklo, ponoria sa do tečúcej vody na 10-14 dní 5. breaking (beating) 6. hackling = česanie až pokým neostanú iba dlé lesklé vlasy 7. spinning = priadza, v Egypte to robili ručne -- dali nite medzi ruky a priadli priadzu/ splietali(splicing) 8. spindle = vreteno -- posilniť niť 9. weaving -- dyeing -- majority of linen was left undyed, associated with divinity and purity *Purity and power symbolism* - linen associated with cleanliness, sanctity -- essential in religious rites - always white and usually transparent -- very early linen (Egyptian was very finely made so it was really transparent) - white, undyed, sheer, transparent, fine, associated with social status, BEFORE 1800 - worn by religious figures, monarchs, royals - linen and virtue - mentioned in Bible, in the testament -- holy garments -- signifier of a virtuous women - had to be kept white - gender virtue -- non working, the higher class that could actually keep the linen white - Egypt -- almost everyone exclusively worn linen - Europe -- non practical, worn under other garments, undergarments always made of linen -- can be wash repeatedly, gets more beautiful with each wash, very breathy, the texture not harming skin - bleachfields - linen had to be bleached to be washed -- linen was sent by wealthy families to the Netherlands where the water was ideal for washing - were places for linen to purify and whiten fabric by sunlight - the best cloth = up to 6 months of sunlight to whiten *Colonialism* - slaves or people from lower social groups had to bleach it for wealthy people - finer linen for higher classes - Northern Europe -- one of the most common textiles + another very important textile = WOOL *Status Symbol* - gloves, collars , cuffs (lace) -- fine, transparent and white, embroidered - little hats for children, overdresses, sleeves... childhood, purity, status - scarves, cuffs, sachettes, creaminess of the trousers, vest - the background is white, on top of it is embroidery (recognizable through pattern which isn't repeated, it´s organic) - wool is colored - test question: a picture - collar = made of linen, technique is lace + justification of my answer - Class and Race - daily reminder of their class in the clothes their wore - flax shirt, cheapest and roughest cloth -- harmful and painful to skin when putting on new flax garments - Self-sufficiency - American slave trade and colonisation of European nations in India - Flax began to grow their own linen cutting from the national trade - easy to plant, easy to grow, you can grow your own garments your own -- the idea of self-sufficiency of needing no one else -- became a political movement - doing it for oneself, make one owns clothing *Linen*´*s* *legacy* - Flanders renouned for its linen production, thriving textile industry, city of Ghent -- for its river - contributed to much of wealth of this region - 12\. to 16. century -- getting larger, organised into kilts, beginning to generate a lot of money for Flanders, Flanders being rich bcs of its linen production - by 16. century -- still secondary industry to wool - tablecloths, sheets, napkins - 1685 - Hugenots fleeing France -- very skilled textile artisans -- taking their skills with them - 17\. century france is loosing some of its market position -- benefiting for Flanders - linen begins to dominate the industry - Damask - type of woven fabric made from linen, characterized by its intricate patterns that are woven directly into the fabric - recognizable if you flip it completely over and there is a difference between the matte and glossy surfaces of the linen - weaving technique that produces this double reverse flip wised pattern - color damask = silk - white damask = linen - shininess of the pattern against the matte background - movement close enough makes it visible more - Lace - almost always made of linen - the qualities : stiff, smooth, fine, shiny, strong, long, resistant to tangling -- necessary for lace making - linen can be lustrous but never as much as silk (bling bling shine) - 19\. century -- decline of line production creating mass famine - Flanders faced challenges due to the rise of industrialisation -- slower to adapt to machines = ends up being a great miss for the economy - decrease of work force -- 1925= 500 000 workers, 1845 = 90 000 workers - England begin producing machine made cheaper versions of linen imported to Flanders - failed harvests to famine = cholera - Flemish realised they cannot compete with machines and industrialism - pivoting to just doing the flax cultivation -- works just enough for the industry, price of linen increases - the industry survives but it isn't as strong as in the 1800 - shipped to China and East Asia to finish the making process and returned back to Flanders *Today* - Flanders -- still the best linen *2^nd^ lesson -- Silk* *(30.9.2024)* - begins in China, which has monopoly of silk for a long time - moves through the Middle East to Constantinopol -- Istanbul - silk being more valuable than gold - used to protect borders, bring peace, used for amour, anti-microbial no allergies -- helps the wound heal faster - one of the strongest threads in the world - in 16.th century silk production in Europe - Italy becoming the face of production - silk moth -- **bombex mori** *Silk Making* - sea silk, spider silk, moth silk -- bombex mori had to eat - the larvae spins into the cocoon that it is needed to unravel to get the silk -- larvae must be killed before escaping the cocoon (it eats its way out of the cocoon, the thread won´t be continuous) - peace silk -- you let the larvae get outside -- the thread must be tied back together - you boil the thread - the reeling -- threads are spun of the cocoon - the silk after is woven -- it gets super complex = the loom will be on exam *China* - only place where silk production is known - 3600 BCE - the earliest pieces evidences of silk production (Henan, China) - Silk production remained exclusive to China until the warring the States Period/Zhou Dynasty (475-221 BC) - the opening of the Silk Road in 114 BCE also aided the transfer of silk - yet China maintained a virtual monopoly over silk production for yet another 1000 years - silk worm -- first domesticated insect -- breed to be only a silk worm, it cannot live if people aren't feeding it - as the war wages upon China, they don't have space to guard the secret of silk weaving and it escapes to the world - Silk Routes -- knowledge of silk and silk textiles -- as ilk travelled other materials travelled as well = great diversity of objects travelled from China through Mongolia -- Middle East -- Mediterranean - some of those tribes dominated parts of the road and demanded payments in silk -- payment for good as they travelled through - China had knowledge for how to make the silk thread and weave it. controlled all of the knowledge -- exported the silk thread and silk plain cloth which would be unwoven and rewoven into local patterns - regulation of the width of the silk -- the longer the width the more expensive the fabric -- the length of the silk determines the cost of the fabric - used to pay for taxes, paying of enemies *Trading Silk* - 500 BCE -- 500CE - at the start China holds the knowledge for silk making but also the textiles - concepts are travelling between the East and the West (ideas, religions, arts, fabrics) - Silk Routes reach all the way up to Sweden and end up in northern Africa - moves west through Silk Routes -- The Sassanian Empire becomes the wealthiest most crucial leaders in silk production - they are situated at a very strategic place -- receiving the silk that they would threat their own way - a lot of designs have mirror image -- in easier simpler way - a full silk would take 1 person 1 year to make -- the reason why is silk so expensive - people paid the cost of a house for a year of textiles for a wealthy family -- very imúortant for the global economy - the design of silk : round circle with some kind of animal or a plant inside of it - invention of loon 500 BCE -- until 1800s - cca 200 CE -- silk exports slightly to the east -- to Japan -- establishes its own culture in design but still very similar roundish one *Silk in India* - cca 1250 BCE - might acknowledge another type of silk- from another type of moth -- they were doing silk at the same time as the Chinese - it wasn't a luxury good in India -- silk was worn by servants and even higher and middle classes - it´s highly breathable, keeping you warm, adapts to you body - important in the Indian climate -- adaptable - different kinds of patterns -- idea of repeating them - floral designs - Legend about Two monks - they travelled to China, smuggled two silk worms in a bamboo, took them to the West and introduced the silk to the West - just a myth Chinese knew about silk making in the India, so why would they keep it a close guarded secret for so long? *Silk in Middle East and Europe* - Italy had this problem of spending too much money for paying off people on the Silk Routes -- so they tried to do their own silk to save some money - real interest of trying to know how to make the silk of out China - 500 CE -- as Roman Empire declines shift to Byzantium - Constantinopol taking Byzantium -- silk production - 600 CE more intricate patterns Samitum weaving -- we still see the round design, but inside of it we see more complex designs happening in the roundel and outside of it -- you can see the mix of designs from the East and the West (mixed elements showing diversity of influences) - Byzantine techniques with weaving gold into silk -- more expensive and luxurious -- the colours and types of silk were only allowed to some classes (purple is allowed for higher classes) - certain cities are strategic trading partners - in Belgium it´s Brugges -- they have water (Istanbul to Venice, from Venice to Brugges) - Venice - in weaving you have two different types of thread -- **warp** going upwards and **weft** going to the side *Sogdian silk and silk traders* - 500 -- 900 CE - the roundels has gotten bigger -- the patterns change very slowly - transporting philosophies throughout the West - the weaving technique is samite - the other nations began to import silk from Iran - expoloration driven by the effort to lower expanses - the iconography of influences -- mythical beasts that look Hindo-Asian -- mix of Islamic indian eastern art that mixes with western architectural iconography - trees of life, lions and griffins - dye is very important for silk -- you can make it more valuable -- weave it with gold or dye it with very expensive dyes -- seashell that produces a small amount of colour - **Murex dye** -- used for the richest purple colours - Murax shells population declined bcs of the climate change **hexaple trunculus** -- purple color ***What were silks used for?*** * **bargaining*** (military and naval support in exchange for silk, for instance) ***showcasing status*** (particularly through dyes; Tyrian purple, for instance) ***wrapping precious items*** (relics, dead bodies) * **taxes, customs*** (Sassanians/Sogdians controlled silk travelling west) - story about migration of people (Jews, Hugenots -- took the knowledge of weaving techniques with them) *Italy: A New Center of Production* - trading points with Constantinopole and the Byzantian Empire -- knowledge travelling though cities - designs began to change -- there is circularity but it is no longer a roundel -- a pomegranate -- really influences by the Indian "botah" -- teardrop shaped - tartar cloth -- no longer has the roundel -- a new styled evolved in silk - still mythical beasts, flowers are there without any central roundel forms - Italy's ascendency was built on three factors: - 1\. Trade routes - 2\. Recruiting - 3\. Technology - 1500 -- Miracle of the Cross at the Bridge of San Lorenzo - traditional pomegranate motive - Italy becomes known for **velvet = silk** that is woven and then cut (**alto basso** -- some of the velvet is cut shorter and some of it stays longer)= technique - heavily specialised in silk velvets - velvet -- how you cut the thread: cut it **low = basso part**, cut it **high = alto part** - **alto basso woven silk velvet** - silk qualities: shininess, many colours woven into it, luxurious - silk is shiny even if black -- specialty of Venice - 1400 -- 1600 -- Italian silk velvet flourishes - the French realise they have been spending too much money paying to Italians so they want to weave silk -- you need people -- the French bribed Italians (protection, no taxes, double pay) *The Rise of French Silks* - Lyon, Tours -- two cities crucial for silk weaving in France - Jean-Baptise Colbert -- in charge of developing the silk weaving industry on France -- he told king to give good opportunities to Italian workers - from 1600 many quick changes in designs, the silhouette stays the same -- then mere changes - brief overview of French silk designs - 1\. Baroque 1640-1700 - 2\. Bizarre 1695-1720 - 3\. Lace patterns 1685-1730 -- imitation of laces - 4\. Early naturalism 1720 -- Jean Revel (points rentrés -- technique with subtle colour shifts) - 5\. Full naturalism 1730 - 6\. Retreat from naturalism 1740-1770 (meanders→stripes) -- imitation of fur design - silk designs for furniture as well -- Versailles furniture *Spitalfields: English Silks* - most prominent textile maker was a woman **-- Anna Maria Garthwaite** (1688-1763) -- a silk designer - her patterns and designs were transported into the manufacture - independent designer but also manufacture designers - some of her patterns travelled to France - smaller florals on white background = typical for her designs *The Decline of the Silk Era* - 1800 -- the silk was being replaced by wool - brocade -- a silk with multiple colours Types of weaves: 1. Plain textiles Tabby weaves - colour effects - weaver alternately lifts the even and uneven warps - weave unit (rappart d´armure): 2 warps, 2 wefts - colour effects: - Stripes, bands, checks - Shot tabby - Ikat -- pre-drawn design and then dye the silk strands in bands - Chiné á la branche - Warp printing - Extended tabbies - Watered silk -- woven in a traditional tabby and finished -- looks like water - normal silk run through machine with two big things and it will crush the silk into the water look Twill Satin - not a textile but a weaving variation -- a longer variation of the weft = more shine - more lustier, shinier pattern - more warp threads showing Variations with multiple warps - Velvet -- cut velvet is fuzzy 2. Figured textiles - Taqueté Uni - Taqueté faconné - Samit Uni - Samit faconné *3^rd^ lesson -- Wool* *(7.10.2024)* - wool is always woven as a twill or tabby, never more complex patterns, which are only really exclusive for silk - difference between animal fibers Animal Fibers - Cashmere goat - Turkish Mohawk goat - Llama Alpaca, Vicuňa - rabbit - sheep wool and camelid wool -- mostly discussed in class - wool is often representing all of these, but specificially reffering to sheep wools, others are camelids Qualities of Wool - heavy (because of a thicker fibre) - warm, sweat absorbing, cooling ability -- regulating temperature - can be prickly (though lama can be silky) - camelids -- typically South America - sheep is mostly European animal while Camel is a southern animal - was very important for Flanders = a big wool industry (Brugges, Ghent -- 80% of people employed in wool industry) Domestification - 4000 BCE - Domestification of llamas and alpacas - 3000 BCE - Andean textiles from camelid fibers discovered - European wool is typically dyed in one colour, bcs colours are saved for silk, whil in South America wool is dyed with multiple colours - tapestries were used to warmer walls -- in tapestries you can see designs also in Europe, but usually they were typically tabby - vicuna cannot be domesticated -- they are hunted and shaved, not killed - very early textiles were made bcs of need for warm and also cultural status, belief systems -- weaving was a significant and important artistic achievement - the fibres are sheared, cleaned, carded /combed, spun and dyed Dying - Andean weavers used a variety of natural dyes to colour their yarns - dyes were derived from plants, minerals, and insects, with colours like reds from the cochineal insect, yellows from native plants, and blues from indigo - red dyes and blue dyes (from Indigo) -- coming from South America - Indigo - from indigo plant -- fermentation and oxidation - very rare and you need a long dye process to obtain dark blue colour = the most expensive -- you have to repeatedly dry and dye it - very sought after - Japan is very well known for real indigo dying -- jeans that cost thousands - Cochineal - significant dyes from Andes - coming from an insect living on the prickly pear cactus -- dried and ground - brilliant hue -- widely traded across the Americas and later to Europe after the Spanish conquest - still used until today -- in makeup, yoghurts... - Colour significance Designs of South America - Geometric Patterns - diamonds, zigzags and stepped motifs symbolized nature and cosmology - representing mountains, rivers, or tiers of the universe. - Figurative Motifs: - textiles featured animals like llamas, condors, and snakes, as well as anthropomorphic figures - linked to Andean mythology and believed to offer protection. - Symbolism and Status: - patterns and colours indicated social status; finer textiles (e.g., vicuña wool) were reserved for elites and ceremonies - specific designs marked ethnic identity - introduction of sheep´s wool -- replacing camelid fibres -- becoming the dominant material in textile production - disruption of traditional practices -- indigenous weavers forced to produce textiles for colonial economy - high quality Incan textiles declined - influence on design - European motifs and Christian symbols integrated into traditional Andean patterns -- altering original meanings - decline of Vicuňa and Guanaco - overhunting let to reduced populations - limited access to quality fibres - preservation and adaptation -- weaver knowledge was passed on generations and they were able to preserve their community weaving traditions History of Wool Classical Anitquity (1 BCE -- 400 CE) - wool production central to both Greek and Roman economies - Romans were highly skilled in woollen textile production -- establishing large estates for raising sheep - trading market throughout Europe and the Mediterranean - Fullo-Fullonica - involved a process with three main phases: - soaping -- using alkaline solutions including urine - rinsing -- in water basins - finishing -- brushing, sulfur treatment, finishing - workshops Fullonicae -- place where this process occurred - organized into guilds and had legal responsibility for the clothes they cleaned - Italy, Spain and the British Isles became known for high-quality wool production - Roman times : wool, linen, leather - cotton from India was a curiosity and silk from China was extravagant luxury goods Middle Ages (11^th^ -- 13^th^ CE. GOLDEN AGE) - during the medieval period wool become the most valuable commodities in Europe -- especially England - England = sheep -- sharing the sheep and exporting to other countries - 13^th^ century -- leading producer and exporter of wool -- to the Low Countries (particularly Flanders -- known for its skilled wevers ) - the best **woven** **wool** comes from Flanders, the best **raw wool** comes from England - Flemish Weaving Hubs - 9^th^ century -- developing a great reputation for fine cloth - 12^th^ century -- import of raw wool from England to Flanders - 13^th^ century -- co-dependency of England and Flanders on each other (Flanders heavily dependent on English wool) - very fragile relationship, depends on peace, on agreement of those countries - wool being processed in **Ghent, Bruges** and **Ypres** -- leading cities for cloth production in Europe Processing wool - the wool: long fibres from adult white sheep; shorn in spring - best from England (Scotland and Ireland low quality) - from 15th c. onward Merino wool from Spain (Don't mix!) - Shearing: wool is sheared from sheep -- cutting the hair off of sheep - Cleaning/Scouring: removing grease, dirt, and lanolin -- using typically urine, those apart of the process were considered the lowest classes in society - Carding: aligning the fibres - Spinning: wool is spun into yarn - from the 11^th^ century vertical loom was replaced by the horizontal loom, which was semi-mechanized and much faster + less labour, also replaced from women to men occupation - technical revolution - FULLING and TENTERING - cleaning and felting through trampling in a mixture of water butter, urine and soap - shrinkage by more than 50% - tentering = drying and tretching at industrial terrains - MARKETING - marketed in cloth halls - export or domestic use - Champagne fairs - most commercially important trade fairs on the European continent - six fairs, each lasting 6 weeks in: Provins, Troyes, Bar-sur.Aube, Lagny - provided the necessary link between the Low Countries and Italy - Bruges were one of the biggest European cities - Flemish weaving was organised into guilds -- where women were denied access + production and quality regulation English Control + Conflict (14^th^ CENTURY) - relationship between England and Flanders strained due to political conflicts uíncluding Hundred Years´War (1337-1453) - a lot of unrest and social dynamics issues - rebellions -- the reliance on English wool contributed to social unrest -- The Revolt of Ghent (1379-1385) - the weaver are on top of the textile industry - the peak of guilds Decline + Competition (15^th^ CENTURY) - - England, previously a supplier of raw wool, began developing its own textile industry, reducing exports to - - - Conflicts like the Hundred Years\' War and local revolts disrupted trade routes and supplies - - Italian cities like Florence produced luxury textiles - Italy challenging Flanders' dominance - - Antwerp's rise as a trade hub shifted economic focus away from cloth production - English taxes, new harbour - some Flemish workers migrate to England, some stay + the black death Wool Renaissance - wool market shifts from England to Spain - the sheep cannot be moved from Spain -- the Spaniards very quickly began to exploit Indigenous people *4^th^ lesson -- Cotton* *(7.10.2024)* ***Cotton*** Terminology: - Cotton : actual fibres of the plant - Calico : thicker, rougher than muslin, mid range consumers - Muslin : finer, thinner thread, finer, thinner weave. - (Painted cotton textiles: chintz in Britain, Chint in India, and Cit in Iran) Around early turning point of 1800s, more likely to find cotton in aristocratic/wealthy settings. Trendier fabric, more expensive, a novelty. Potential Fibres - Camelid : - Alpaca - LLAMA - Nuňa - could potentially be possibly pattern embroidered not repetitive, however not organic enough - not worn print is with asymmetrical - possibly printed: - printed fabric = only cotton - don\'t typically print camelids - sometimes print wool Process : - - 1\. Ginning: cotton fibre cleaned by removing the seed. 1793,94 industrialises the process but prior was by hand - 2\. Bowing: fibres are disentangled and loosened. Literally with a bow - 3\. Spun - 4\. Yarn is reeled - 5\. Woven - 6\. Finishing: printed/decorated - - - Globalisation of cotton - 1500, India is the major world producer of cotton. - Rare outside of India (Inside borders) - After 1500 three major changes: - trade - Slavery - new areas are cultivating the plant - Industrialisation- Europe becomes a new area of production. Why the popularity? (In Asia) - Cheaper than silk - More colourful than linen - Lighter than wool. Wool warm as helllll - Indian cottons have much darker backgrounds. Reds, indigo. - European cottons change the traditional patterns and designs to European tastes What happens in 1500 to disrupt trade? - Fall of Constantinople - disruption of trading routes forced new trading routes to be established - People forced to take to the sea. Opening of 'the cape of good hope route' allows direct trade between Europe and Asia. - The Portuguese set up trading post in India, others eventually join in 1600s when see success - By 1660s, more than 1.4 million pieces of textile imported into Europe every year. Pros for cotton in European - liked the softeners, lightness - Easily washed - Cheaper than silk - Rich colours - slower process of assimilation into European culture than you would think - had to adapt the production to European preferences (Adapt the width to specific measurements needed for tailoring) - clothes, adapt the colour palettes, etc. - Becomes popular choice after 1750s, and by 1800 total domination - On the eve on French Revolution (1789) 40% of Parisians wardrobes included cotton and fustian!  Early Indian cottons in Europe - Often used as furnishing, decorative fabrics before being used for furnishings. Wall hangings, - furniture etc. - Roughly 1650s onwards began to be incorporated into clothings - Brocade: - Insertion of supplementary threads into damask - Silk fabric with damask print - In that pattern, inserting other threads to make a secondary motif - Embroidery is never only one colour, if cant discern pattern printing or embroidery, see if one colour - only time is white work or black work, white thread on white or black thread or black. - Skill of embroidery desirable to exhibit - usually complex, organic, multiple layers of design - don't typically embroider cotton, as it would not be fancy enough to sustains Cotton bans - prohibited in France (1686) in England ( 1702/1721) and later elsewhere - Considered a threat to local industry, silk, linen. Threat to moral fibre of society - A disgust with the working class. Disliked the blurring of lines between working class and - bourgeois attire Rise of cotton - Slavery: - - - - - - - - - - - 1700s-1770s - European cotton manufacturing - Key manufacturing locations: Manchester, Rouen, Nantes - African markets initially sceptical of French imitations - They were not very good Strengthening of cotton industry - cotton gin - Economic giant- slavery - Industrialisation of production process - 1733 - Flying shuttle - 1738 - Spinning frame - 1765 - spinning jenny - 1767 - Water frame - 1793 - Cotton gin - By 1800... in Europe - Making calico, Chinses, muslins Less of demand for Indian produced textile. Long production time. 2 years from first order placed. Fashion changes often move quickly. Eventually, Europeans master Indian techqniues and make it their own. \