Historical Design Development Booklet PDF

# Year 12 Textiles: Historical Design Development ## Historical Design Development: Swimwear ### Pre 1900 - Swimming prohibited in Sydney-Harbour from 6am-8pm. - Women not allowed to swim in public. - Men wore one piece wool flannel suits from neck to knee. ### 1900-09 - People defying sw...

# Year 12 Textiles: Historical Design Development ## Historical Design Development: Swimwear ### Pre 1900 - Swimming prohibited in Sydney-Harbour from 6am-8pm. - Women not allowed to swim in public. - Men wore one piece wool flannel suits from neck to knee. ### 1900-09 - People defying swimming laws. - People wore bloomers with woollen overdress. Dresses had weights sewn into seams to avoid exposure of legs. - Men and women swam in separate areas of the beach. ### 1910-19 - Sunbaking became popular, changing the style of swimwear. - Swimwear became more fitted, although still made from wool. ### 1920-29 - Going to the beach very popular. - Laws introduced stating what could be worn to the beach. - Skin-tight tubular swimsuits made from wool jersey became the style. - Swimsuits bared arms and backs. ### 1930-39 - Lifesavers bared their chests. - Moviestars began promoting swimwear designs. - Necklines became lower, hemlines higher and cutout sections were popular. - Adjustable shoulder straps. ### 1940-49 - Bikini patented by Louis Reard in 1946. - Corsets or bra cups built in for shape. - Zippers used at centre back. ### 1950-59 - Swimming pool culture developed - sunbaking without intention to swim or get wet. ### 1960-69 - Lycra and nylon introduced providing stretch and replacing zippers. - Elastic was used around edges to hold them into place. ### 1970-79 ### 1980- - Acceptable to wear anything to the beach including one-piece swimsuits, bikinis, wetsuits and tan-through fabrics. ### Present - Swimsuit styles influenced by trends on social media. - More of an effort to address important issues such as sustainable swimwear, providing options to everyone e.g. religious. ## History of Swimwear - It was in the early 1800's that people began to flock to the beaches for seaside amusement. - With the introduction of railroads, ocean-side beaches became even more popular for sunny recreations. - Along with this new outdoor pastime came the need for a stylish garment for the privileged lady of fashion. - Here we will follow the path of the history of swimwear, which began long before the modern day bikini. ## Bathing Machine - At ocean resorts where the water was very shallow near the beach, people undressed in little houses on wheels, which were drawn out into deep water by horses and hauled back to the shore when the bath was finished. - At the larger resorts hundreds of these carts were seen in the water at a time. - The broad wheels hardly made an impression on the firm, white sand of the beach. - The bathing machine allowed a modest Victorian woman to spend the day at the beach in complete privacy. - After the horse would haul the cabana into the ocean, the 19th century woman would change from her layers of petticoats and dress into another layer of swimwear. - Later a hood was added to the contraption to allow the female in a soaking wet flannel dress to emerge from the water unseen. ## 1890s - This group of young ladies above is enjoying a sunbath, dressed in the latest 1890s swimwear. - Women typically dressed in black, knee-length, puffed-sleeve wool dresses, often featuring a sailor collar, and worn over bloomers or drawers trimmed with ribbons and bows. - The bathing costume was typically accessorized with long black stockings, fancy lace-up bathing slippers, and fancy caps. - Note the dotted stockings and wired sun hat worn by the young swimmer to the front of the photograph. ## 1910 - By 1910 bathing suits no longer camouflaged the contours of the female body. - The yards of fabric used in Victorian bathing skirts and bloomers were reduced to show a little more of the figure and to allow for exposure to the sun. ## 1915 - Up until the first decades of the 20th century, the only activity for women in the ocean involved jumping through the waves while holding on to a rope attached to an off-shore bouy. - By 1915, women athletes started to share the actual sport of swimming with men and thus began to reduce the amount of heavy fabric used in their billowing swimsuits. ## 1920s - By the early 1920s women's bathing suits were reduced to a one piece garment with a long top that covered shorts. - Though matching stockings were still worn, vintage swimwear began to shrink and more and more flesh was exposed from the bottom of the trunks to the tops of the stockings. - By the mid-1920s Vogue magazine was telling its readers that "the newest thing for the sea is a jersey bathing suit as near a maillot as the unwritten law will permit." ## A Quick Dip Into The History of Women's Swimwear: Part 1 - After a particularly cold winter here in New York, "swimsuit season" is officially upon us, leading millions of women to contemplate ways to reveal their skin while still maintaining a delicate balance of modesty, functionality, and style. - Of course, the plight of today's swimwear shopper is nothing new: bathing suits have always been influenced by both fashion trends and socio-cultural factors. - Perhaps more than any other type of garment, swimsuits can tell a lot about the body ideals and moral values of a society at any given time, making them invaluable resources for dress historians and cultural anthropologists. - From wool bloomers to spandex bikinis, The New School Archives and Special Collections contain a plethora of design materials that can help trace the evolution of women's swimwear in the Western world during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. - A brief look at some of these materials allows us to better appreciate the diversity of swimwear styles that are available today, and perhaps wonder how designs will continue to evolve now that more and more women are willing to bare (almost) everything. - Swimming wasn't really considered a leisure activity until the mid 1800s, when new railway systems provided increased access to seaside resorts. - Even then, the work that went into maintaining a woman's chastity at the beach makes it hard to imagine that it was considered a leisurely pastime at all! - The strange contraption seen on the right side of this image is what is known as a "bathing machine." - At the time, men and women were not permitted to swim in close proximity to each other at the beach, and bathing machines were used to ensure that men really couldn't catch a glance of any bathing beauties. - The machine was actually nothing more than a wooden box where women changed from their street clothes into bathing clothes, which looked something like the ensembles shown above. - The wooden box was then pulled towards the water, where women were allowed to be released and splash about in their weighty swimwear. - The swimwear industry was given a huge boost in the 1920s due to the new craze for suntanned skin, which signified that you had time to enjoy leisurely activities and were, therefore, wealthy and fashionable. - By the mid 1920s, the tunic and bloomer swimsuits were replaced by more minimal all-in-one designs, which were similar for both men and women. - The sleeves were eliminated and the trunks were shortened, creating the most "liberating" swimsuits in modern Western history (although their heavy knitted fabrics were still not conducive for actual swimming). - The image above (found in the Parsons School of Design Alumni Association records) shows a group of bathing students from the New York School of Fine and Applied Art (later Parsons School of Design.) - The photo is a perfect representation of how similar male and female swimsuits could be. - French designers such as Jean Patou and Elsa Schiaparelli introduced patterns and bright colors into women's swimsuits, further distancing modern swimwear from the relatively dreary suits of Victorian times. - Soon, the post-war boom brought more time for leisure activities, as well as increasingly "provocative" swimsuits. - Fast-forward to the mid-twentieth century. - The ladylike silhouette of the late 1940s corresponded with swimwear that highlighted a woman's curves and revealed (gasp!) full arms and legs. - An increased importance in functionality was also placed on swimwear, which was now made in a variety of lighter fabrics and less-restricting styles. - Fashion designer (and Parsons alum!) Claire McCardell was at the forefront of the newly embraced "American Look" around the time of World War II, which was defined by simplicity and functionality. - One of her most iconic pieces was the "diaper" swimsuit, as well as a series of playsuits that allowed women to frolic on the beach with style. - The image above dates from 1955 and depicts a young Parsons ## Beach Behavior Revealed - Are speedos a good or bad thing? To go topless, or not to go topless? - We surveyed 8,606 people about all things beach related, from sunscreen use to bikini waxes. Here's what we learned: ### Who's Surf & Sand? - Likely beachgoers: - 87% of Mexico - 71% of Asia Pacific - 57% of Europe - 45% of USA - Most likely to go topless : - 31% - Dare to Bare? - 40% topless - 33% - 48% - 22% topless beach - 27% uncomfortable visiting a topless beach - 25% - Other 46% - Most likely to cover up: - 57% - 52% ### The Swimsuit of The Brave - About half of Americans (52%) think wearing speedos on the beach is fine, the rest (48%) think it's way too much info. - Sporting the Speedo: - 39% Germany - 26% France - Baggy & Loose: - 52% USA - 99% Mexico - 91% Canada ### How Do You Get Beach-Ready? - Americans prep by... - 46% buying a new swimsuit or outfit - 33% working out - 26% going on a diet - 13% getting waxed - Most likely to get waxed: - 43% France - 31% Japan ### Don't Get Burned - 40% of American beachgoers say they use a high SPF sunscreen and reapply religiously. - 44% wear 15+ SPF and apply when they remember. - 16% use suntan oil and fear not. ### American Beachgoers Biggest Fear - 54% cite having possessions stolen as their chief fear. - 16% worry most about drowning and/or rip currents. - 16% are most afraid of sharks. - 10% fear jellyfish stings above all else. ## More Comfortable Showing Some Skin - As voters got older, they were more likely to settle on one of two extremes - the string bikini or the one-piece, though it's clear which extreme they prefer: - 65% string Bikini - 25% one piece - 13-17, 18-24, 25-34, 35-44 45-54, 55-64, 65+ ## One Style Fits All - If you think certain body types shun the scantier styles, you're wrong. - In fact, overweight voters were even more intrigued by the string bikini than skinny voters. - 43% string bikini - 33% standard two-piece - Love handles: 20% - Slim/Slender: 29% ## 11 Decades of Disrobing - Throughout the ages, women's swimwear has changed drastically. - With the passing of time, the swimsuit has become simplified, if you will. - Starting in the 18th century, women began wearing "bathing gowns" in the water. - These gowns were composed of long dresses with weighted fabric as to not rise up in the water. - Hence, the old-time swimwear was not conducive to sunbathing in the least bit. - The most celebrated cinematic swimwear moment of all time, is when Bo Derek ran down the beach in hair braids and a nude swimsuit, in the movie 10. ## The Bikini - The bikini didn't make a splash until after World War II. - It's name was derived from Bikini Atoll, the site of several nuclear weapons tests, for its "explosive effect on the viewer," - That explosive effect has become even more unstoppable with the feminist movement and social acceptance of less-is-more fashion. - The rest? It's history. - 1890's - 1970's - 1980's ## Speedo Fastskin 2007 - Speedo developed the Fastskin FS-PRO high performance swimsuit and made it available in 2007. - In 2007 it was their lightest and fastest swimsuit. - Swimming athletes' comments were used to develop swimwear with the idea of producing champion swimmers. - The Speedo Aqualab Fastskin FS-PRO suit has low passive drag. - This means athletes swim faster in the water. - The suit has a low absorption rate and it feels really light to the competitive swimmer. - Unlike the average fashion swimsuit, this is a sleeveless all body suit from ankle to neck with only the arms free. - It is mainly used in competition swimming as it is very costly. - Some argue it is unfair to financially poorer swimmers since it needs money to buy one, so it favours the wealthier swimmer and countries. - Put your hand over this and just try to guess the prices! - their own studies though touting the advantages of their own individual lines overall and against their competitors. [citation needed] - The materials are sometimes very expensive ($300-$600 US for a full suit), limiting their use to highly competitive and professional levels of the sport. - However, in recent years with the advance of technology the most basic 'high-technology swimwear' can be purchased for approximately $100.[3] - http://www.scienceinthenews.org.uk/contents/?article=8 ## Question 2: - Use the link below to complete a description on each of the innovative products Speedo has recently developed. - Explain what is new/different about each product? - http://www.speedo.co.uk/were-innovators |Product | Description| |---|---| | Fastskin | | | IQ Fit | | | Bio Fuse | | | Speedo Sculpture | | | Endurance | | ## Question 3: - http://www.insidespeedo.com/our-products - A. Discuss what Speedo is doing to reduce their environmental impact. - B. Explain how Speedo ensures the ethical trade of their products. - C. Describe community projects Speedo is involved in. ## 18th Century (1700's) - History of Fashion - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lU5vyvn4MKs ## 19th Century (1800's) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXaAV6VFM4Y ## 1900-1949 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WckSWrQISAQ ## 1950-2000 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aercEv2fRko ## Fashion Overview 1920-2008 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg3db9lXoik ## Fashion Timeline 1860-2020 - 1860s - 1870s - 1880s - 1890s - 1900s - 1910s - 1920s - 1930s - 1940s - 1950s - 1960s - 1970s - 1980s - 1990s - 2000s - 2010s - future: ## Case Studies ### History of Swimwear: - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzA925hAFvA&list=UUywuq7AxUM4uYrVmSFm3Ezw ### History of Jeans: - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrMLIdFawig - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orY4FVCy-vc ## The History of Jeans ### Pre-1900 - In the 16th century sailors from Genoa, Italy, used a 'jean' cloth material for clothing. - Around the same time in England, a material was produced for clothes that would later be called denim. - Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis made a deal in 1873 to patent a new copper-riveted waist overall. - It wasn't long before all types of working men were buying the innovative new pants and spreading the word about the new durable and comfortable 'Levi' overalls. ### 1900-29 - Jeans were mostly worn in the form of work overalls for labourers and fruit pickers. - By the 1920s, jeans were the most popular men's work pants, although still used only by labourers. ### 1930-39 - During the Depression jeans were mostly used as workwear. - They were loose fitting and mainly worn in rural or farming communities as they were not considered a fashion item. - Denim was used for children's clothing as it transcended age but not gender. - Levis Strauss and Co depicted a female model in jeans in a 1936 edition of * Vogue Magazine. ### 1940-49 - During Word War II jeans were introduced to women, who vamped up the style by rolling the bottom of the jeans up or cutting them off to make the infamous high-waisted denim shorts of the 1940s' pin-up style. - Jeans were considered appropriate work pants for both men and women to wear in factories during wartime. - For women's jeans, the zipper went down the right side instead of the front. ### 1950-59 - Rock and film stars like Elvis Presley, James Dean and Marlon Brando sported jeans, making jeans internationally desirable in the 1950s. - Jeans became associated with rock-and-roll and pop music, suggested rebellion and reflected a youth culture, ## The 1930s - In the 1930s, the boyish look of women's clothing was now designed for the activity being undertaken. - Beachwear became popular. - Women wore a swimsuit made from wool and covered it with a white toweling coat. - Casual clothing was introduced and trousers were acceptable leisure-time clothing for women. - Cinema was an important influence. - Many women tried to dress like their favourite movie star. - Iconic women included Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and Rita Hayworth. - Iconic men included Cary Grant, Humphrey Bogart and Fred Astaire. ## The 1940s - Once again, war halted the fashion industry. - In 1941 the British government introduced 'utility clothing' regulations. - Limits were placed on manufacturers in terms of the amount of fabric that could be used in a garment and the number of styles that could be created each year. - The wartime silhouette featured a shortish skirt and a square-shouldered jacket. - After the war ended, a young designer in Paris called Christian Dior introduced ‘the New Look'. - After the austere fashion of the war years, this fashion, with its wide, full skirts, was an instant success. - The garments were made from a mixture of natural and manufactured fibres ## The 1980s - The 1980s were a time of economic prosperity. - New technologies were developed, resulting in new easy-care fabrics. - Big was seen as better. - Women's suits were tailored but large shoulder pads exaggerated the shoulders. - This type of look was termed ‘power dressing’and suggested the increasing authority women had achieved in the workplace. - Hairstyles grew larger to match the look. - Strong colours – including purple, red, bright blue and hot pink – were popular. - Appliqué was often used to decorate clothing. ## The 1990s - Casual clothing was the norm in the 1990s, with the focus on individuality. - The 'hip-hop' look of loose cargo pants and baggy jeans was popular for teenagers. - Fitness sportswear also became the clothing of youth. - Most women had a trouser suit in their wardrobe. - Jackets were mid-thigh in length and trousers were straight. - Undergarments became outer garments and corsets were a fashion item. - Bra straps were no longer hidden – it was respectable for them to be visible. - Western fashion was influenced by Asia. - Mandarin collars on straight dresses were popular. - Garments were decorated with Asian embroidery and beading. - Black and neutrals were the colours of the 1990s. - Red carpet runways, show-stopping gowns, the Academy Awards, the Grammy Awards, designer names and celebrity stylists paved the way for iconic front-page magic. - The fashion often centred on the press given for the style. - Liz Hurley's famous Versace safety-pin dress in 1994 and Jennifer Lopez's daring Versace jungle-print dress in 2000 gave both ladies worldwide press with their associated fashion. - Iconic women of this decade include Princess Diana, who had an impact on fashion silhouettes. - The logo also became a fashion must-have during this decade. - Association with Gucci, Lagerfeld for Chanel, Dior, Burberry and Louis Vuitton were synonymous with high-class fashion. - Designer bags also became fashionable, with names such as Louis Vuitton, Coach and Chanel being desirable. - Patricia Field, stylist for the television show Sex and the City, brought about eclectic fashion mixes that incorporated designer labels, vintage and cutting-edge fashion. ## Clothing in Australia - Australia, a vast country with an abundance of raw materials, has prospered under global changes. - Australia is a multicultural nation as millions of people have migrated here in search of a better life, bringing with them their rich cultural heritage and ways of life. - What we wear today is a basic characteristic of our many cultures and reflects our changing society. - The history of apparel in Australia is an exciting one. ### Indigenous Australians - Prior to contact with British colonists, Indigenous Australians adapted to the climate of each region and clothing was not always considered essential. - In colder climates such as Victoria, possum, kangaroo and wallaby skin cloaks were worn to give protection from the elements. - In warmer regions, decoration rather than clothing, in a European sense, was customarily used for ceremonial purposes. - During the 20th century the kinds of clothes worn by Australia's indigenous population were influenced by European styles. ## Fashion Silhouettes - The changing fashion silhouette can be often followed and studied in terms of historical, cultural and contemporary influences. ### Historical Influences - Historical influences relate to a particular era or historical period, and are often due to events, people and resources available during that particular period. - Consider the year 1929, during the Great Depression. - This world event had a major effect on the economy and the resources available during that time, and had a significant impact on the world leaders and their decisions for their citizens. - The fashion silhouette was influenced as rations took their toll on design concepts. ### Cultural Influences - Cultural influences also affect textile design. - The influence of a culture's dance and movement, art, social life and practising artists such as music icons or celebrities all become inspirational sources for designers to use in the fashion silhouette. - A culture's architectural style may also impact on textiles and design as style and silhouette can be mirrored in clothing. - For example, the columns and decorative carvings in ancient Greek architecture were re-created in their fabric drapes, folds and patterns. ## Historical Design Development - **Syllabus Reference:** - **Historical design development** - Overview of design developments in society through ONE of the focus areas: - Apparel - Furnishings - Costume - Textile arts - Non-apparel - **Briefly outline the historical development of a selected focus area and discuss its influence on society and/or the influence of society on the design development.** ## The Cube Method - **C** - Circle the directive term - **U** - Underline key words in the question/syllabus content - **B** - Ox the resource provided that need to refer back to e.g. design example - **E** - Explain questions in your own words/the answer ## Question 12 (b) - **Criteria:** - Shows a clear relationship between ONE influence and historical design development in a focus area: 4 Marks - Identifies ONE influence and links it to historical design development in a focus area: 3 Marks - Outlines some historical design developments OR outlines some influences: 2 Marks - Provides some relevant information: 1 Mark ## Scaffolding Your Response |Aspect Of Society, & When it occurred | What Caused The Change| The Impact It Had On Textiles Design Development| Example to Support the Answer | |---|---|---|---| | |                  |                                              |                                          | | |                   |                                              |                                          | | |                   |                                              |                                          | ## 2010 - **Question 14 - Design (15 marks)** - (a) Outline historical design developments from a focus area you have studied: 5 Marks - (b) Analyse the specific influence of society on the historical textile design developments outlined in (a): 10 Marks ## 2007 - **Question 14 - Design (15 marks)** - (a) Describe TWO historical design developments from a textile focus area of your choice: 5 Marks - (b) For each of the TWO historical design developments described in part (a), analyse their influence on contemporary society: 10 Marks ## 2006 - **(c) Historical developments have impacted on textiles in contemporary society. Explain this statement with reference to TWO historical developments from a focus area you have studied: 4 Marks**