Podcast
Questions and Answers
What technique is used in Italian silk velvet to create different thread lengths?
What technique is used in Italian silk velvet to create different thread lengths?
- Ricamo method
- Double weave technique
- Cut and loop technique
- Alto Basso weaving (correct)
Which city in France was NOT mentioned as crucial for silk weaving?
Which city in France was NOT mentioned as crucial for silk weaving?
- Marseille (correct)
- Lyon
- Paris
- Tours
During what time period did Italian silk velvet flourish the most?
During what time period did Italian silk velvet flourish the most?
- 1600 - 1700
- 1300 - 1400
- 1400 - 1600 (correct)
- 1700 - 1800
What was one of the reasons the French sought to develop their silk weaving industry?
What was one of the reasons the French sought to develop their silk weaving industry?
Who was responsible for developing the silk weaving industry in France?
Who was responsible for developing the silk weaving industry in France?
What type of patterns did Anna Maria Garthwaite typically create?
What type of patterns did Anna Maria Garthwaite typically create?
What was one major factor contributing to the decline of the silk era in the 1800s?
What was one major factor contributing to the decline of the silk era in the 1800s?
Which silk design period is characterized by imitation of laces?
Which silk design period is characterized by imitation of laces?
Why was silk historically considered more valuable than gold?
Why was silk historically considered more valuable than gold?
Which insect is specifically known for producing silk?
Which insect is specifically known for producing silk?
What is the primary difference between 'peace silk' and regular silk production?
What is the primary difference between 'peace silk' and regular silk production?
When did silk production start in Europe?
When did silk production start in Europe?
What major trade route facilitated the spread of silk beyond China?
What major trade route facilitated the spread of silk beyond China?
What happened to the silk production monopoly held by China during the Warring States Period?
What happened to the silk production monopoly held by China during the Warring States Period?
What is one significant characteristic of silk that makes it unique?
What is one significant characteristic of silk that makes it unique?
What did silk production and trade help to facilitate in addition to cultural exchange?
What did silk production and trade help to facilitate in addition to cultural exchange?
What was the significance of the width of silk in determining its value?
What was the significance of the width of silk in determining its value?
Which empire became crucial in silk production around 500 CE?
Which empire became crucial in silk production around 500 CE?
What type of motifs were commonly found in silk designs?
What type of motifs were commonly found in silk designs?
In India, how was silk perceived in comparison to its value in China?
In India, how was silk perceived in comparison to its value in China?
What was a unique characteristic of silk production time?
What was a unique characteristic of silk production time?
What story is associated with the introduction of silk to the West?
What story is associated with the introduction of silk to the West?
What primary benefit of silk is highlighted in the context of India?
What primary benefit of silk is highlighted in the context of India?
What was the invention of the loom important for in relation to silk?
What was the invention of the loom important for in relation to silk?
Flashcards
Alto Basso
Alto Basso
Technique for weaving velvet where some threads are cut shorter (basso) and some longer (alto), creating a varied surface texture.
Decline of Flemish Linen Industry
Decline of Flemish Linen Industry
The process of producing linen in Flanders declined due to the rise of industrialization, leading to economic hardship and a decrease in workforce.
Silk Velvet
Silk Velvet
A type of silk fabric with a dense, velvety pile, often used for clothing and upholstery.
Silk Road's Role in Silk Production
Silk Road's Role in Silk Production
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French Silk Industry
French Silk Industry
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Silk Production Origins
Silk Production Origins
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Baroque Silk Design
Baroque Silk Design
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Silk Moth (Bombyx mori)
Silk Moth (Bombyx mori)
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Silk Extraction Process
Silk Extraction Process
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Lace Pattern Silk Design
Lace Pattern Silk Design
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Properties of Silk
Properties of Silk
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Early Naturalism Silk Design
Early Naturalism Silk Design
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European Silk Production
European Silk Production
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Retreat From Naturalism Silk Design
Retreat From Naturalism Silk Design
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Brocade
Brocade
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Peace Silk
Peace Silk
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Silk width and value
Silk width and value
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Silk as currency
Silk as currency
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The Silk Routes
The Silk Routes
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The Sassanian Empire in Silk
The Sassanian Empire in Silk
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Sassanian Silk Designs
Sassanian Silk Designs
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The Loom and Silk
The Loom and Silk
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Japanese Silk
Japanese Silk
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Silk in India
Silk in India
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Study Notes
Fashion and Textiles - Final Test
- Multiple choice questions covering the last year's material
- Additional reading and mandatory reading. The mandatory reading will be on the final exam.
1st Lesson - Linen
- SAPE (Société des ambianceurs et personnes élégantes)
- Arpillera: Textiles for liberated black men in Europe.
- Colonialism and fashion appropriation
- 1970-1990s textiles in Chile. These textiles were protest messages.
- Understanding intersectionality in textiles, relating it to gender, society, and political reasons.
Textiles
- Textiles hold societal and political weight, from birth to death
- Textile industry is the second largest industry worldwide.
- Metaphors in textiles include social fabric and moral fiber.
- Typical assignment of textile production to women
- Cultural and spiritual medium; cotton and wool have political significance
Linen Production Stages
- Sowing
- Harvest
- Rippling (unfolding)
- Retting (soaking)
- Breaking
- Hackling (combing)
- Spinning
- Spindling
- Weaving
- Dyeing
Purity and Power Symbolism
- Linen is associated with cleanliness and sanctity.
- Linen was important in religious rites.
- Linen's cultural importance, typically plain-white and transparent.
- Historically tied to social status (wealthy).
- Mentioned in the Bible.
Colonialism Related to Textiles
- Linen's importance to Northern Europe, particularly for bleaching and whitening.
- Slavery and textile production
- Colonial exploitation for textile products.
- Usage and trade in fabrics.
- Self-sufficiency vs national trade, as a political movement.
2nd Lesson - Silk
- Silk originated in China centuries ago.
- Silk manufacturing monopolized in China for a long time, until the Silk Road.
- Silk production migrated throughout the Middle East.
- Silk becoming a valuable material, even surpassing gold for its worth and use.
- Silkworms are raised and their cocoons are unraveled and woven.
- Silkworms are killed before they hatch.
Damask
- Woven fabric, characterized by intricate patterns.
- Linen and silk are two variations
- Weaving technique creating double reverse patterns.
- Appearance varies due to weaving techniques.
3rd Lesson - Wool
- Wool is a natural fiber from animals.
- Primarily from sheep.
- Wool is warm, absorbent, and cooling.
- Wool used in clothes in various ways, depending on type and quality of wool.
- Camelid fiber (llama, alpaca, etc.) used historically.
- Key role of wool for Flanders.
- Wool's important part in history of different cultures.
4th Lesson - Cotton
- Cotton: Fabric made from plant fibers, widely used.
- Calico, Muslin: Types of cotton fabric that varied in thickness.
- Cotton textiles in the early days of trade and its importance for the world.
- The importance of cotton in different cultures, how it was traded and influenced the economies.
- Importance of cotton in textiles, how it became important to societies.
5th Lesson – 1400-1600's - Medieval Costume
- Introduction to clothing styles (men and women) in the medieval period, including the details in clothing types.
- Historical period and its importance to the history of fabric.
- How fabrics were affected by changes in time period.
6th Lesson 1400-1600 - Baroque, Rococo, and Louis XVI Fashion
- The development and change in fashion from the 1600's, through 1800's
- Descriptions of different types of clothing during these eras.
- The important changes in fashion.
- The rise of fashion, importance and significance of the designers fashion.
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