Fashion and Textiles - Final Test

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Questions and Answers

What technique is used in Italian silk velvet to create different thread lengths?

  • Ricamo method
  • Double weave technique
  • Cut and loop technique
  • Alto Basso weaving (correct)

Which city in France was NOT mentioned as crucial for silk weaving?

  • Marseille (correct)
  • Lyon
  • Paris
  • Tours

During what time period did Italian silk velvet flourish the most?

  • 1600 - 1700
  • 1300 - 1400
  • 1400 - 1600 (correct)
  • 1700 - 1800

What was one of the reasons the French sought to develop their silk weaving industry?

<p>To reduce expenses on Italian imports (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Who was responsible for developing the silk weaving industry in France?

<p>Jean-Baptiste Colbert (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of patterns did Anna Maria Garthwaite typically create?

<p>Smaller florals on white backgrounds (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What was one major factor contributing to the decline of the silk era in the 1800s?

<p>Wool began to replace silk (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which silk design period is characterized by imitation of laces?

<p>Lace patterns (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why was silk historically considered more valuable than gold?

<p>It was exclusive to China and hard to produce. (A), It was primarily used for armor and royal garments. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which insect is specifically known for producing silk?

<p>Bombex mori (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary difference between 'peace silk' and regular silk production?

<p>Peace silk is produced without harming the larvae. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

When did silk production start in Europe?

<p>16th century (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What major trade route facilitated the spread of silk beyond China?

<p>The Silk Road (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happened to the silk production monopoly held by China during the Warring States Period?

<p>It remained intact for an additional 1000 years. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is one significant characteristic of silk that makes it unique?

<p>It is anti-microbial and has healing properties. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What did silk production and trade help to facilitate in addition to cultural exchange?

<p>The establishment of diplomatic relations. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What was the significance of the width of silk in determining its value?

<p>The longer the width, the more expensive the fabric. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which empire became crucial in silk production around 500 CE?

<p>The Sassanian Empire (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of motifs were commonly found in silk designs?

<p>Mirror image designs (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

In India, how was silk perceived in comparison to its value in China?

<p>Silk was primarily worn by servants and middle classes. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What was a unique characteristic of silk production time?

<p>A full silk would take one person about a year to make. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What story is associated with the introduction of silk to the West?

<p>Two monks traveled to China and smuggled silk worms in bamboo. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What primary benefit of silk is highlighted in the context of India?

<p>It is highly breathable and adapts to body temperature. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What was the invention of the loom important for in relation to silk?

<p>It started being used from 500 BCE and influenced silk production until the 1800s. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Flashcards

Alto Basso

Technique for weaving velvet where some threads are cut shorter (basso) and some longer (alto), creating a varied surface texture.

Decline of Flemish Linen Industry

The process of producing linen in Flanders declined due to the rise of industrialization, leading to economic hardship and a decrease in workforce.

Silk Velvet

A type of silk fabric with a dense, velvety pile, often used for clothing and upholstery.

Silk Road's Role in Silk Production

The Silk Road facilitated the spread of silk production knowledge beyond China, contributing to the growth of silk trade and cultural exchange.

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French Silk Industry

The French government actively encouraged the development of silk weaving in the 17th Century, offering incentives to Italian silk workers.

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Silk Production Origins

Silk production started in China, where it remained exclusive for centuries, before spreading to the Middle East and Europe.

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Baroque Silk Design

A style of silk design characterized by elaborate, theatrical patterns, often with ornate floral motifs.

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Silk Moth (Bombyx mori)

The silk moth, Bombyx mori, is a domesticated insect crucial for silk production. Its larvae produce silk cocoons that are unraveled to obtain silk thread.

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Silk Extraction Process

The process of extracting silk thread from cocoons involves boiling and reeling the silk fibers.

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Lace Pattern Silk Design

A style of silk design featuring intricate and often asymmetrical patterns, sometimes resembling lace.

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Properties of Silk

Silk, known for its strength, durability, and hypoallergenic properties, was highly valued throughout history.

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Early Naturalism Silk Design

A style of silk design that emerged in the early 18th century, incorporating more realistic and natural motifs.

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European Silk Production

The rise of silk production in Europe during the 16th century, particularly in Italy, made the country a center for silk manufacture.

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Retreat From Naturalism Silk Design

A style of silk design where patterns resemble natural fur, with meandering lines and stripes.

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Brocade

A silk fabric with interwoven threads of different colors, creating a rich and intricate pattern.

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Peace Silk

The technique of letting the silk moth escape from its cocoon before extracting the silk is called peace silk, resulting in a less continuous thread.

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Silk width and value

The process of making silk involved meticulously controlling the width of the fabric. Wider silk was considered more luxurious and expensive due to its finer quality. The length of the silk also factored into its worth.

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Silk as currency

Silk was a crucial element in economic transactions during ancient times. It was used as a form of currency to pay taxes, settle debts with enemies, and even facilitate trade agreements.

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The Silk Routes

The Silk Routes, spanning from China to Sweden and North Africa, served as a conduit for the spread of silk and ideas between East and West. These routes facilitated the exchange of knowledge, religions, art forms, and textiles.

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The Sassanian Empire in Silk

The Sassanian Empire, strategically positioned along the Silk Routes, became a major player in silk production. They received silk from the East, which was then processed and woven into their own unique styles.

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Sassanian Silk Designs

The design of many Sassanian silk fabrics often featured intricate pattern motifs with a sense of symmetry. These patterns frequently included circular elements with animal figures and plant motifs.

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The Loom and Silk

The invention of the loom, around 500 BCE, revolutionized silk production and remained the primary tool for weaving until the 1800s. It significantly increased the speed and efficiency of silk weaving.

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Japanese Silk

Silk production in Japan, which began around 200 CE, developed its own distinct styles yet still showcased the influence of the roundish motif common in Chinese silk.

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Silk in India

In India, silk has been produced using a different type of moth since around 1250 BCE. Unlike in China, however, silk in India was not a luxury good. It was worn by people from all social classes.

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Study Notes

Fashion and Textiles - Final Test

  • Multiple choice questions covering the last year's material
  • Additional reading and mandatory reading. The mandatory reading will be on the final exam.

1st Lesson - Linen

  • SAPE (Société des ambianceurs et personnes élégantes)
  • Arpillera: Textiles for liberated black men in Europe.
  • Colonialism and fashion appropriation
  • 1970-1990s textiles in Chile. These textiles were protest messages.
  • Understanding intersectionality in textiles, relating it to gender, society, and political reasons.

Textiles

  • Textiles hold societal and political weight, from birth to death
  • Textile industry is the second largest industry worldwide.
  • Metaphors in textiles include social fabric and moral fiber.
  • Typical assignment of textile production to women
  • Cultural and spiritual medium; cotton and wool have political significance

Linen Production Stages

  • Sowing
  • Harvest
  • Rippling (unfolding)
  • Retting (soaking)
  • Breaking
  • Hackling (combing)
  • Spinning
  • Spindling
  • Weaving
  • Dyeing

Purity and Power Symbolism

  • Linen is associated with cleanliness and sanctity.
  • Linen was important in religious rites.
  • Linen's cultural importance, typically plain-white and transparent.
  • Historically tied to social status (wealthy).
  • Mentioned in the Bible.
  • Linen's importance to Northern Europe, particularly for bleaching and whitening.
  • Slavery and textile production
  • Colonial exploitation for textile products.
  • Usage and trade in fabrics.
  • Self-sufficiency vs national trade, as a political movement.

2nd Lesson - Silk

  • Silk originated in China centuries ago.
  • Silk manufacturing monopolized in China for a long time, until the Silk Road.
  • Silk production migrated throughout the Middle East.
  • Silk becoming a valuable material, even surpassing gold for its worth and use.
  • Silkworms are raised and their cocoons are unraveled and woven.
  • Silkworms are killed before they hatch.

Damask

  • Woven fabric, characterized by intricate patterns.
  • Linen and silk are two variations
  • Weaving technique creating double reverse patterns.
  • Appearance varies due to weaving techniques.

3rd Lesson - Wool

  • Wool is a natural fiber from animals.
  • Primarily from sheep.
  • Wool is warm, absorbent, and cooling.
  • Wool used in clothes in various ways, depending on type and quality of wool.
  • Camelid fiber (llama, alpaca, etc.) used historically.
  • Key role of wool for Flanders.
  • Wool's important part in history of different cultures.

4th Lesson - Cotton

  • Cotton: Fabric made from plant fibers, widely used.
  • Calico, Muslin: Types of cotton fabric that varied in thickness.
  • Cotton textiles in the early days of trade and its importance for the world.
  • The importance of cotton in different cultures, how it was traded and influenced the economies.
  • Importance of cotton in textiles, how it became important to societies.

5th Lesson – 1400-1600's - Medieval Costume

  • Introduction to clothing styles (men and women) in the medieval period, including the details in clothing types.
  • Historical period and its importance to the history of fabric.
  • How fabrics were affected by changes in time period.

6th Lesson 1400-1600 - Baroque, Rococo, and Louis XVI Fashion

  • The development and change in fashion from the 1600's, through 1800's
  • Descriptions of different types of clothing during these eras.
  • The important changes in fashion.
  • The rise of fashion, importance and significance of the designers fashion.

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